Beader`s Guide Jewelry Design

The
Beader’s Guide
to
Jewelry Design
A Beautiful Exploration
of Unity, Balance, Color & More
Margie Deeb
© 2014 by Margie Deeb
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted,
in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4547-0406-5
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Deeb, Margie.
The beader’s guide to jewelry design : a beautiful exploration of unity, balance, color & more / Margie Deeb.
pages cm
Includes index.
ISBN 978-1-4547-0406-5
1. Beadwork. 2. Jewelry making. 3. Color in design. I. Title.
TT860.D426 2014
745.594’2--dc23
2013037408
Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing
c/o Canadian Manda Group, 165 Dufferin Street
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6K 3H6
Distributed in the United Kingdom by GMC Distribution Services
Castle Place, 166 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, England BN7 1XU
Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty. Ltd.
P.O. Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756, Australia
For information about custom editions, special sales, and premium and corporate purchases, please contact
Sterling Special Sales at 800-805-5489 or specialsales@sterlingpublishing.com.
Email academic@larkbooks.com for information about desk and examination copies. The complete policy can
be found at larkcrafts.com.
Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differing conditions, tools, and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses, and
other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.
Manufactured in China
2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1
larkcrafts.com
9
Introduction: Jewelry As Magic
1 Unity
10 The Big Picture
11 Wired for Visual Unity
12 Unity & The Unitometer
14Repetition
16Variety
18Proximity
20 Continuation & Closure
23 Patterns in the Random
24 Unity within Sets of Jewelry
26 The Ugly Necklace Contest
28 Unity Study
29 Challenge Yourself
2 Focal Point & Emphasis
31 Contrast, the Great Attractor
31 Value Contrast
32 Shape Contrast
32 Pattern, Texture & Density Contrast
32 Size Contrast
32 Color Contrast
34 The Visual Path
35 To Center or Not to Center?
37 Whole-over-the-Parts Emphasis
38 Allover Pattern
38Space
40Mystery
42 Focal Point Study
43 Challenge Yourself
3 Balance
46 Symmetrical & Asymmetrical Balance
46 Vertical & Horizontal Symmetry
48 Radial Balance
48 Asymmetrical Balance
49 Techniques of Asymmetrical Balance
50 Value and Color
51Position
53 Texture & Pattern
54Shape
55Movement
56 Visual Balance Study
57 Challenge Yourself
4 Movement
59 Direction of Line & Shape
60Repetition
60Rhythm
61 Space and Silence
62 The Movement of Light
64 The Movement of Pattern
66 The Movement of Texture
67 The Movement of Color
69 Physical Movement
70 Movement Study
71 Challenge Yourself
5 Shape
74 The Language of Line & Shape
76 Basic Geometric Shapes
78 The Beauty of Geometric Shapes
79 The Beauty of Organic Shapes
80 Learning to See Shape
82 Beautiful Shapes for Jewelry
84 Shape & the Human Form
86 Shape Study
88 Challenge Yourself
8 The Creative Journey
6 Color
132 Daily Practice & Routine
134 The Gap
91 A Mighty Language
136 Fear, Doubt & The Creative Process
91 Becoming Color Conscious
136Fear
92 Properties of Color: Value
137Doubt
92 Value Is Relative
137 Do Your Work
93 Value Contrast
138 Artists’ Ways
93 The Harmony of Similar Value
142 Find Your Voice
94 Properties of Color: Hue
143 What Kind of Jewelry Do I Want to Make?
94 Properties of Color: Intensity
144 Challenge Yourself
95 A Note about Thread Color
96 Properties of Color: Temperature
146 About the Author
96 Creating Color Palettes
147Acknowledgments
97Contrast
148 Contributing Artists
97 The Ever-Inspiring Color Wheel
150Index
98 The Monochromatic Palette
152 Photo Credits
99 The Analogous Palette
100 The Complementary Palette
101 The Triadic Palette
102Proportions
102 Domination Rules
103 Unity through Color Dominance
104 The Tonal Approach
106 Skin Tone & Color
108 Color Study
109 Challenge Yourself
7 Jewelry & the Body
111 Moving with the Body
112 Shape, Clothing & Jewelry
114 Girl, Put Your Necklace On
118 Body Scale
119 Flattering the Curves
120 Flattering the Neck
121 Enhancing Eyeglass Wearers
122 Designing for the Face
122 Determining Your Face Shape
122 Pleasing Earring Shapes
124 Girl, Put Your Earrings On
126 Standard Jewelry Fitting and Sizes
128 Customer Preference Form
129 Customer Measurements Form
130 Jewelry on the Body Study
131 Challenge Yourself
Frieda Bates
Yasmine, 2010
35 x 17 x 2.5 cm
Dichroic glass cabs handmade
by artist, seed beads, faceted
glass beads, suede; bead
embroidery, stringing
8
THE BEADER’S GUIDE TO JEWELRY DESIGN
Jewelry As Magic
We diminish the significance of jewelry—
Many of the pieces I’ve chosen that illus-
and its creation—when we consider it
trate specific design principles also appear
simply ornamentation. The very heart of
in Showcase 500 Beaded Jewelry (Lark Crafts,
jewelry is the expression of being. Each time
2012). This book is, to date, the most
we make and adorn ourselves with jewelry
outstanding compilation of contemporary
we give ourselves over to an ancient ritual, a
beaded jewelry available. And It’s a valu-
ceremony where the alchemy of our creativ-
able resource for observing and studying
ity combines with the passion of
the field at large. The artists whose work is
our self-expression.
contained within its pages, as well as those
online and in the global beading communi-
The result? Magic.
ty, have been generous in sharing their work
with me. Their extraordinary contributions
You’ve opened this book because, like me,
bring the beauty, theory, and concepts
you want to more fully understand that
we’re exploring to life.
magic. So let’s map a part of the terrain
where jewelry’s magic lies: design.
The Beader’s Guide to Jewelry Design was
created with the input of online friends
Why does a piece of jewelry make us feel
and readers. When I asked questions in my
more alive and in touch with our muse?
newsletter and through social media, you
Why are we sometimes amazed by our cre-
responded. Throughout these pages you’ll
ations, and other times ready to toss them?
see names of those, perhaps yourself, who
Why, when we’ve followed every design
responded to my questions. I am very
concept, are our visions sometimes unful-
grateful for your input.
filled? We’ll use our vision, our senses, and
our intuition to explore these questions.
May you weave creativity and magic into
In creating jewelry, as in life, when we pay
every area of your life.
deep attention we come closer to knowing
ourselves and how we relate to our world.
We understand why we’ve chosen jewelry as
our sacred medium of self-expression.
9