December 2010 – #130 - HH Franklin Club, Inc.

December 2010
Copyright © 2010
Newsletter of the H. H. Franklin Club
Cazenovia College, Cazenovia, New York, U. S. A. 13035-7903
Number 130
Page 1 of 8
The H. H. Franklin Club publishes Franklin Service Station solely as a convenience to its Members. No endorsement is made by the Club or the editor, of anything advertised in FSS.
No claim or warranty is made as to the accuracy of an advertisement; no responsibility is assumed for any transactions resulting from the ads.
ADVERTISEMENTS: Please state full car and engine serial numbers (all characters) when selling cars, engines, or crankcases. Type or print your ad clearly, be brief and precise, and
specify the classification: VEHICLES, ENGINES, REPRODUCTION PARTS, PARTS, SERVICES, or MISCELLANEOUS—FOR SALE (with prices) or WANTED. Ads run once
per request/donation. A DONATION is requested, although members’ ads can be free, and suitable nonmembers’ ads may be accepted. Selected company ads (member and
nonmember) are $3 per line. One line contains 50 characters/spaces. Make payment to the H. H. Franklin Club, Inc. Misrepresentation in advertisements may result in a member being
dropped from the Club rolls. The publication of your ad entails an obligation to answer all inquiries. The acceptance of advertisements is at the Editor’s discretion. NO PHONE AD
ORDERS but Editor will answer questions 610/573-8013.
MAIL YOUR AD TO:
Tim Miller, FSS Editor, 3438 Oakhill Road, Emmaus PA 18049-4421 USA
DEADLINES: (for issues dated): MAR 7 (for March); JUN 7 (June); SEP 1 (September—Hershey); NOV 30 (December—Christmas)
Membership in the H. H. Franklin Club is open to anyone interested in air cooled cars & trucks through 1942. Ownership is not required. Dues are $35 per calendar year ($45US for
foreign) for family membership. Yearly publications include three magazines (Air Cooled News), four newsletters (FSS), annual Trek notice, renewal notice, and when published, a
Roster of members, Register of Franklins, and Technical Index. Please send address changes to Membership Services, 8620 Territory Trl., Wake Forrest NC 27587-4411.
EDITORIAL POLICY:
To publish information that will enable you to make your Franklin run well and safely.
CLUB LIBRARY & PUBLICATIONS
Reprints—INSTRUCTION BOOKS: S10, $26; S11, $28.50;
S12, $24; S130, $7.50; S14, $22.50; S15,, $18; S16/19, $7..50;
S17, $9; S18, $7.50. PARTS CAT: S11, $48; S12, $43.50; S13,
$34.50; S14, $40. ACN 11—20: $67.50. Instruction book, S135137, $24; & $2 postage. Checks to: The H.H.F.C Library, Lloyd
Davis, RFD#1 Box 3899, Rutland VT 05701-9217.
CAR BLUEPRINTS: Order by drawing number from Parts
Catalog, call for others. $5 each for first 3, then $3 ea.; you’ll be
billed. Jeff Hasslen, 13311 95th St. NE, Elk River, MN 55330.
Tel.: 763/441-7815
VEHICLES FOR SALE
1926S-11B Sedan: S/n: 164388-11 Eng.: E112599 Tan
color. Awards: 1st Jr-1989, 1st Sr-1989 & Grand National1990. $42,000. William Franklin, Box 66 Big Run PA 15715
Tel.: 814/427-2602
(130)
Misc. For Sale
Franklin Watercolor Picture: Nicely framed watercolor
by Edna Wilkinson. 1912 D Torpedo Phaeton in summer
Victorian setting. $100. Tim Miller (for Edna) Tel.:610/5738013 for email image.
(130)
“RADAR” — searching for homeless Franklins:
These are current on the www.franklincar.org site:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
’23 S10B 4Dr 585/230-7671
rolancagini2@rocheser.rr.com
‘26 S11A 4drSdn.,
Mary Voitrano 414/581-5196 WI
‘26 S11A Sport Touring John MacKiernan 508/746-1988 MA
’26 S11A Op Cpe Bruce bthomas@vianet,ca 705/767-3716 Can
‘29 S135 4drSdn John Davis john@tmfcinc.com CA
‘29 S137 4dr
Steve.Woods@cfulmer.com
WA
’29 S130 4drSdn 360/297-2549
b2gluth@msn.com WA
‘30 S145 4dr 208/756-3629 iamadamelover@yahoo.com AL
’30 Sport Sedan
smitchell@gmail.com 925/202-9554 CA
‘31 S153 TwnCar Lee 661/599-1670 Leland.Webb@gmail.com CA
’32 4drSdn 219/252-2692 Adam trojancross06@hotmail.com IN
’33 Sdn w extra parts
Norm Miller 563/320-2096 IA
The ads in the website have detailed descriptions and photos and
asking prices. Also, included are Parts Wanted, Franklin Parts,
Repro Parts and Accessories, Literature and Services. Get on a
computer or to a library and have a look !
Franklins for sale, Nov’10 HMN: ’16 S9 Rdstr-CA, ’23 S10B
Trng-FL, ’25 S10 Sdn-ME, ’26 S11A SpTrng-MA, ’29 4dr Sdn
PA, ’29 135 Vct-WI , 30 4dr sdn PA Dec’10 HMN: ’23 S10B
Trng-FL, ’25 2dr Sdn-ME, ’26 S11A SpTrng-MA, ’29 4dr PA, 30
4dr sdn PA Jan’11 HMN: ’29 4dr PA, 30 4dr sdn PA
Nov/Dec HCCA: (none listed—nice center spread picture of Al
Finseth’s 1914 M Coupe!) Jul/Aug AACA: (none listed)
Nov/Dec AACA: (none)
MISCELLANEOUS
ORIGINAL FRANKLIN LITERATURE:
Sales
brochures and manuals for most models. SASE for free list.
Please specify Franklin as I have lists for all
cars/trucks/motorcycles, U.S. & foreign. Walter Miller,
6710 Brooklawn Pkwy, Syracuse NY 13211 Tel: 315/4328282 Fax: 315/432-8256
www.autolit.com
REGIONS & LOCAL GROUPS
Lehigh Valley Franklinites (PA) meet on 3rd Tuesday of each
month near Allentown PA for dinner & drinks. Usually attracts 1015 people. If you are visiting eastern PA or NJ call Tim Miller at
610/573-8013, anytime. Leave a message or email:
(marmoset@fast.net)
Midwest Region: The Midwest Region covers the states of IL,
IN, MI, OH, WI, MN, KY MO, and IA. Many faithful members
from NY, NJ, TX, AZ, PA, NC and KS meet with us. You too
are invited to join us at our planned 2010 meets. With or without a
Franklin, consider joining us.
To host a meet or require information please call Ralph Gack,
President, 13900 Ridgewood Drive, Plymouth, MI 481702431, email: krgack@sbcglobal.net.
WEB PAGE: http://www.franklincar.org for news, more
classifieds, events & tech talk. Have a Franklin event
planned contact web master on site.
H. H. Franklin Foundation Franklin Museum: Info:
Tel.: 520/326-8038 franklinmuseum@aol.com 1405 East
Kleindale Rd.,Tuscon AZ 85719
AIRCOOLED EVENTS
Bakersfield CA Mini-Meet, Friday, April 15, 2011:
3pm – 11pm, during the HCCA Bakersfield Swap Meet
(April 14-16) Franklin Folks are invited. Dinner, drinks,
& Franklin talk at the Webb’s house. Pot Luck so bring a
bag of chips, dips, salad, your favorite drink, or whatever—
Mexican Buffet dinner will be $9.00 (prices have gone up what's new!!) As usual, BYOB with people bringing chips
or dip. We will be providing ice, some chips and dips, etc.
Can also see several Franklins nearby. 40-70 people in
prev. years. RSVP 661-833-1440 or lwebb72741@aol.com
or see Lee Webb at meet concerning what to bring. Visit
www.hcca.org/events for info on Bakersfield HCCA meet.
Page 2 of 8
Franklin Service Station
AIRCOOLED EVENTS
Midwest Region Spring meet-Jackson, MI, May 12-14, ‘11
WesTrek ’11: Likely Santa Barbara area, June 12-17, 2011
The Mailing will probably be sent out in November.
58th Franklin Trek, 2011: August 6-13, 2011, Cazenovia NY
(SE of Syracuse)
Hershey 2011: October 5,6,7,8 & 9 — HHFC spaces RNE 812. (Red North Field) Stop & say hello to friends on “Franklin
row” in the upper North Red Field.
No. 130 (December 2010)
FCP-24 Muffler, Aluminized, part Number 45690 for all side draft
engines
$65.00 ea.
FCP-24-1 Muffler, Stainless Steel, Part Number 45690 for all side
draft engines.
$130.00 ea
The newest item. the Gemmer steering box kit FCP-23, is supplied to the
club by Dick Pratt. Members can buy the kit and rebuild their steering box
themselves or have someone else rebuild their steering box. Another option
would be to buy the kit and save it until it is needed. This way they can be
sure to get a kit before they are all gone. When the time comes to rebuild
their steering box they could send kit and steering box to Dick Pratt for
rebuild or rebuild it themselves.
THE FRANKLIN CLUB PROJECTS
Franklin Carburetors—the early years
Contact for information or to order: Bob Harrison, 59 Reuben
Brown Lane, Exeter RI 02822. Cell: 401-269-9122, Hm. 401-6670214 .
hfranklin32@verizon.net
Prices listed do not include shipping.
This is the second and final article covering carburetors
used on Franklins. In the early years, the Carburetors were
made by and unique to Franklin. There were four basic
designs that Franklin used from 1902 to 1924. All of their
carburetors were cast Aluminum, and well made. The cross
engine carburetors were surprisingly similar to more modern
carbs. There is an air valve used essentially for starting
located near the inlet followed by a simple venturi-like
design. A main mixture control was provided to adjust
liquid fuel rate from the main (and only) jet. This design
may have been used on a few early barrel hood cars.
However, virtually all of the barrel hood cars introduced an
air valve that operates over the entire load range. The air
valve is mechanically linked to the main throttle plate. This
design may have been briefly interrupted in 1912 by a
“Schebler-like” design where the air valve is not
mechanically linked; rather it is controlled by the vacuum
created upstream of the throttle plate by the air velocity from
the main mixture circuit or main throat. While this design is
cited in some Franklin literature, most of the carbs on the
bigger cars from 1912 thru S-8 were similar to the barrel
hood design. The Series Nine air valve control adopted the
free-float air velocity vacuum air valve design. The dead
weight valve upstream of the main jet was retained
throughout. Later in 1924, Franklin
used Stromberg
carburetors with single throat venturis. The aerodynamic
venturi provided a much simpler means of improved air/fuel
compensation throughout the whole load range because fuel
flow through the specially designed venturi throat
essentially eliminated fuel overload with increasing air flow.
This eliminated the need for the auxiliary air valve.
Since the early carbs were made from aluminum, they
were durable and stable. However, there is some debate
about the performance of the various Franklin designs
relative to competitive carb brands. In the S9 years,
Franklin placed a premium on high gas mileage. With
justification at the time, performance was achieved more
from chassis/suspension/light weight rather than by lively
engine performance.
This article covers operating and adjustment principals
of these factory designs. It also suggests substitutions if
needed due to lost or broken original units. Now we get into
to the first four early Franklin carburetor designs.
The figure to the left, from a trade magazine, shows the
curb used on the cross-engine cars from ’02 through ’06 and
perhaps on some early barrel hoods. Air comes in the
bottom area marked “C” and turns upward past a poppet-like
lift valve. This valve is used to restrict air and thereby
Item#
Item:
Price:
FCP-1 1930 Ser. 145 outer Tail Light Lens, clear glass. $5.00 ea
FCP-2 Red plastic inner lens for use with FCP1
$5.00 ea.
FCP-3 1928 on—Swing out W.shield Weather Seal
$25.00 ea.
FCP-3.2 Series 17—Windshield Weather Seal
$40.00 ea.
FCP-4 1928 to Series 151 W.shield Hinge Cover-52” $ 2.00 ea.
FCP-5 S10-S130 Sp.Plug rubber Escutcheons(set of 6) $65.00set.
FCP-6 1930-on Side draft motor. Pushrod Set of 12 $150.00/12
These are direct replacement hollow push rods with hardened solid ends.
12” Twilite Head Light Lens
(out of stock)
Cowl vent seal (cut to your length)
$0.25/in
Hood Door Pulls for Side draft hoods 1931-’34
Bronze castings that require Chrome Plating. $10.00ea
FCP-10 1929-1932 Brake Drums for cars with wire wheels or demountable wood wheel. Will require riveting to your
hubs and turned to finish size. Include rivets and detailed
instructions. Note: For safety reasons, to be sold only in
sets of 2.
$150.00 pr.
FCP-11 Series 11 “STOP” ruby tail light lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-12 Series 11 “Beehive” ruby tail light lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP -13 Head Light Bracket to Sill cap screw
3/8”-16 X 3 2” long slotted oval head
$ 4.00 ea.
FCP-14 Head Light Bracket to Sill Cap Screw
3/8”-16 X 4 1” long slotted oval head
$ 4.00 ea.
FCP-15 Spring Pivot Bolt Washer
Series 9 to Series 147 cars
$ 2.50 ea.
FCP-16 Copper Washer for Master Cylinder fitting
0.034” thick x 1.125” OD x 0.885” ID
$ 1.00 ea.
FCP-17 Copper washer for brake fitting
0.065” thick x 0.565 OD x 0.345” ID
$ 0.75 ea.
FCP-18 Mandrel bent Aluminized Exhaust Pipe for S145 to
163 Exhaust pipes are made to order and are not
164 always in stock.
Delivery time is 1-4 weeks..
$ 200.00 ea.
FCP-18-1 Mandrel bent Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe for S14
to163 Exhaust pipes are made to order and are not always
in stock.
Delivery time is 1-4 weeks.
$ 400.00 ea.
FCP-19 S16 Tresslite Tail light yellow Segment lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-20 S16 Tresslite Tail light white/clear Segment lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-21 S16 Tresslite Tail light Ruy Red Beehive lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-22 S16 Tresslite Tail light clear license plate lens
Made of Acrylic Urethane
$35.00 ea.
FCP-23 Rebuilding Kit for Gemmer Steering box.
This kit is manufactured by Dick Pratt
$375.00 ea.
FCP-7
FCP-8
FCP-9
No. 130 (December 2010)
Franklin Service Station
Page 3 of 8
adjustment
provided
between
them).
The
liquid
fuel is
enrich the mixture during
controlled by a needle valve. In this design, the float system
starting. The air lift valve
is less primitive and the liquid fuel level is controlled to very
maxes open in almost all
near the top of the jet nozzle.
conditions above idling. Air
Driver controls now include mixing air temperature, a
flows upward past a venturiprimer
button to flood the carb for starting and a main
like opening and the main
mixture
needle control as well as the usual throttle.
jet “B” and out “G” toward
the engine as a fuel-air
mixture.
The gasoline level is
controlled by the float “E”.
The volume of liquid fuel
allowed into the main jet is
controlled by a tapered
needle valve “L” restricting
flow in passage “K”. The
whole system has a sliding
barrel
throttle
located
several inched above the
carb.
This carb is very simple
and surprisingly modern in
flow path. The venturi has a poor shape and the jet exit is a
The third design (above) similar in layout to the second
bit high inside. The carb works rather well with mixture
design except the auxiliary air valve is free floating and not
changes from the driver for various conditions.
controlled by throttle linkage. Several brands of carbs
Driver controls were limited to the mixture control valve
during this period used this basic design. Franklin used
and throttle. Cold starting required priming with an fuelthese carbs on D and H models in 1912 and early 1913.
filled oil can into small holes in the intake valve cages.
The difference here is the
auxiliary air valve (left) is
controlled by the pressure drop
developed in the carb which
forces the air valve to open
rather than a mechanical
linkage. The response of the
valve is adjustable by adjusting
the tension of a controlling
spring. This carb also has the
usual air lift valve in the main
passage below the main fuel
nozzle and venturi.
Notice the auxiliary air
valve is on the side of the carb
and it feeds air into the main path above the mixture nozzle
The next design above was used on nearly all barrel hoods
and below the throttle (not clearly shown).
and other models through Series 8. Again, air enters the
The second drawing (left) shows the aux air valve and
bottom. The air temp can be regulated on the larger models
its adjustment wheels to control its response to pressure
via a valve controlling two openings. One of these is to
changes inside the carb. Controls are similar to the second
ambient air and the other is pulled across a hot exhaust pipe
design except a dashboard priming control is provided to
to prove hot air. This is useful in vaporizing poor gas in cold
flood the carb during cold start from the driver’s seat.
weather. After the temperature mix, the air is split into two
The forth design was used on the Series 9 and early
paths. One path(left side in left figure) moves up past an airseries 10 cars. The S9 and S10 arn not identical or easily
lift valve which functions similar to the earlier cross-engine
interchangeable but the principals and features are the same.
carb. This path continues upward past the main fuel nozzle
The S10 car will be used for discussion.
where the gasoline is introduced in the “Venturi”. The
The Figure (next page—Fig 56B) is from Dykes and
second air path is on the right side of the figure and passes
shows clearly, the flow through the carb. Air enters the Air
up a smaller passage, which has a controlling throttle plate
Cleaner “N” on the right and down past choke plate “L”
but no gasoline is introduced. This is a mechanically
which is used for cold starting. Next, the air turns upward
controlled auxiliary air passage. These two passages
through an air lift valve similar to all previous designs and
recombine above the main passage below the main throttle
then splits into the main throat with venturi-fuel nozzle (jet)
plate. The two throttle plates are connected by linkage and
and an auxiliary air passage.
work in unison. (this connection is positive and there is no
Page 4 of 8
Franklin Service Station
The main passage functions like previous designs with
fuel enrichment adjustable by the driver controlled needle
valve. The other passage bypasses the main passage (to the
right in Fig 56B) through an independent, spring controlled
air flapper valve. Finally it rejoins the main flow entering
through a circular opening below the main throttle plate “H”
and then all mixture exits upward to the intake manifold.
Both S9 and S10 carbs feature a bypass electric
vaporizer used for cold starting(See Dykes Fig 56A for S10).
The S9 system features a driver operated hot/cold intake air
mix valve, but no choke plate.
The S10 carb has no hot/cold mixer, but it does have a
choke for cold starting. Also the S10 system flows into an
exhaust heated gas heater (Fig 56C). This device heats and
further vaporizes the liquid fuel mixture. The S10 features
an air cleaner while the later S9’s brought intake air from the
car’s interior, which was generally cleaner than the road.
Carburetor Design of the Period. All of these carbs
from 1902 through 1923 are up-draft type. This means the
air flows basically upward into the intake manifold. The
reasons for this configuration are related to gravity feed fuel
systems and controlling flooding of the carb. The early cars
had fuel tanks under the front seat. So to get decent flow,
the carb has to be much lower than the fuel tank. This is
aggravated by hill climbing when the carburetor gets higher
in relation to the tank. (It’s an old Model T Ford trick to go
up a steep hill in Reverse which “raises” the tank further
No. 130 (December 2010)
above the carb.) Flooding was a frequent problem in older
cars and recovery from it was somewhat slower and more
difficult on the older gasolines which were much less
volatile.
Auxiliary Air Valves. Modern venturi throat shapes
had not been discovered yet for use in cars. But they did
know that liquid fuel could be sucked out of a tube by
passing air across it. They knew about atomizers that ladies
and opera stars used but they didn’t really understand the
details. So the early carbs were very simple enclosed
atomizers. A big fault with this design was faster flows of
air increased the flow of liquid gas through the tube too
quickly and the car would run way rich (too much gas) at
high loads or high speed.
This problem was corrected by introduction of the auxiliary
air valve. This introduced more air at higher loads. The
early Franklin air-valves were controlled by the throttleplate
which was OK for cruising. This design tended to create flat
spots when accelerating because the plate responded to
exactly what the driver wanted. When the driver floors it,
the auxiliary plate opens wide with the throttle and
introduces too much air. Most air valves of the period used
a free floating valve held gently closed with a spring. This
resulted in a response relative to what the engine actually
needed, i.e., the valve opened more slowly as the engine
speeded up thereby reducing or eliminating the flat spot.
However, it is more complicated to put a free-floating
air valve in Franklins of this era due to the lower pressure in
the cooling box around the crankcase where the carburetor
resides.
Over the years some really clever designs integrated
both the position of the throttle plate and response to mixture
flow into the engine to get really responsive carburetors. As
a result, there were some really complicated carburetors with
lots of moving internal parts.
The invention, discovery and refinement of the throat
venturi eliminated the need for the auxiliary air valve by the
mid twenties. However, performance was enhanced by
mixing features like accelerator well or pumps and better
mixing jet designs.
Franklin’s well-made air valve designs, arguably, were
not very good performers relative to competitive units.
Again satisfactory performance in those days didn’t require
quick powerful throttle response. This was quite evident
when Franklin switched to the Stromberg OE-1 in late 1924.
Problems with Franklin Carbs. Sadly a lot of original
Franklin carburetors were discarded by early owners. The
reasons for replacements were probably varied—from not
able to find parts, hot-rodding, dissatisfaction and/or
response to sales pitches of after-market carb companies.
(Ed. Note: my guess is about 15-20% of the pre 1924 cars
had replacement carbs.) Since Franklin was not produced in
great numbers, finding original carbs can be near impossible
and expensive (Ed. Note: I know! My ’05 has a period
replacement—which works well.)
The Franklins from late 1909 through 1921 (S-9) had
the suction cooling system. This required the low mounted
carb due to the gravity fuel feed problem. Further, it
complicated the inlet to the carb. If the carb had to suck air
into the engine from inside the crank case cooling box, the
result would be less air and mixture into the engine.
No. 130 (December 2010)
Franklin Service Station
This is because the pressure inside the cooling box is
lower than ambient air pressure. Franklin mostly solved
this problem by adding inlet air piping from the carb to
outside of the cooling box. (They did the opposite in later
Olympics by taking advantage of higher pressure inside the
air cooling system and pushing higher pressure cooling air
into the carb—sort of a mild supercharger, it helped!)
I’ve seen several cars from 1910 through 1915 sucking
air from the cooling box rather than outside air—some with
original carbs missing the original inlet plumbing.
Replacement strategies. The best strategy usually is
to use an original Franklin carb designed for the car.
Despite some of the design shortcomings, these Franklins
performed well for the times and part of our duties as
curators of these historical icons is to preserve the
shortcomings and warts. They aren’t modern cars.
Many of the replacement suggestions described below
also apply to other brass-era cars which many of us own as
well as early Franklins.
For the cross-engines (1902-06), the original aluminum
Franklin carbs are really hard to find. I’ve never seen one at
Hershey. My car has an early free floating air valve carb
which is believed to be a very early brass Tillotson. I had to
make a new airvalve (lighter) to make it run right. It now
compensates (over the total load range) very well requiring
almost no adjustments to the needle valve. There are a
number of early carbs that could be tried and “look well” on
the car. The intake throat is very small. Early motorcycle
carbs could be used as well (same displacement and HP) but
they can be really expensive. Several of these cars have
been equipped with modern Gravely tractor carburetors (up
draft) which work very well and require no driver-controlled
needle valve adjustments.
The easiest conversions on the larger “brass-era”
Franklins are single throat updraft Zeniths. These are not
uncommon in early-car flea markets (Hershey, Chickasha,
Bakersfield, for example). There a various models but most
have adjustable main jets or driver operated needle valves.
The main issue is to be sure the intake throat size is the
same as your car. Again make sure the intake plumbing
opening is outside the lower pressure crankcase.
Later, more modern carbs like the Stromberg OE-1 can
be adapted. I’ve used a Carter BB1 on a 1914 Franklin M
while the original carb was out for repair and the car ran
well—with a length of rubber radiator hose to “the outside”
intake.
On water-cooled brass cars the Schebler “ramp” or
model L carbs work very well. These carbs compensate
over the whole driving range very well due to the brass
sheet-metal “ramp” which pulls out a needle valve from the
main jet as the throttle opens. The shape of the “ramp” is
adjustable and there is very good low-mid range and high
range adjustment. These carbs are fairly common in flea
markets in a variety of sizes and configurations. Again, the
main issue is the need to plumb both the main and auxiliary
valve intake to outside-the-crankcase air in a Franklin.
Other suitable contemporary models for water-cooled
cars are the Schebler R and S Models; Rayfield G or L
models and Marvel A-series, E-series and Buick carbs
(made by Marvel in the 20’s) These Schebler model’s use
in Franklins are similar to the Schebler L described above in
Page 5 of 8
plumbing the intake. Rayfields are wonderful, complicated
and very adjustable carbs that are a bit hard to find.
Adjusted properly, they work very well. Again the intake
plumbing issues are the same as above. The Marvels tend to
be a bit more modern (late teens and later) but work well
and the intake plumbing issues are simpler. Their design is
like the Franklin S9 and early S10 in that the auxiliary air
valve and main throat share one opening.
Adjustment principals of Air-valve Carbs. Freefloating air-valve carbs require a light touch. Adjustment of
the air-valve is adjusted to just make light contact when the
engine isn’t running. This allows for the most possible total
air mixture to get into the engine. The spring-tension on the
air-valve should just allow the air-valve to be wide open at
max throttle or max load. This can be tricky. Most systems
will be quite close to this condition when the valve just
barely seats with engine off.
The main needle valve adjustment is usually done to
achieve a reliable (not-rich) idle and all other adjustments
(i.e., on Schebler L) follow the idle setting. Any instruction
manuals will give you a needle valve starting point but most
are 1 to 2 turns open.
WISDOM & WIT from Tom & Paul
Selected Q & A’s from the website
Question—Drive shaft: Thanks for your response to the
question on the 151 transmission. Hopefully you can help
here as well, it seems to us that the spline isn't in far enough.
Your thoughts?
Answer—Yes, as you can see by the wear pattern, that
driveshaft is too short. There should only be about 1-1/2
inches of spline showing when the car is fully assembled..
The original transmission for that car was a Warner T3A
three speed - it's a longer transmission, therefore shorter
driveshaft. Later in the project, Tony found a good Warner T77 four speed and bell housing to make life with the high
speed rear axle gears easier, so that's what transmission is in
the car now.
He has another drive shaft that may be the correct length.
If not, you'll need the drive shaft from a Series 151 (125 inch
wheel base) that had a Warner (not Detroit) four speed, or
take that drive shaft to a truck drive shaft shop and have it
lengthened and re-balanced. Paul Fitz
Question—Exhaust: Talking it over, we were wondering if
you had a theory on the size of the tail pipe. The outlet pipe
from the engine to the muffler is so much bigger than the tail
pipe after the muffler that I wonder if the size of that pipe
makes any difference. Is it smaller to keep up back pressure
or smaller to bend over the axle? Is a larger size better? Does
size matter - in this case. What do you think?
Answer: The exhaust system on Series 10 and later Franklin
motors is rather long and sheds a lot of heat (exhaust gas
volume) by the time it gets past the muffler, so changing to a
larger diameter tail pipe is not as effective as it may be on
other makes of cars.
Because mandrel-bent tail pipes like Franklin originals
are not easy to find and expensive to make, bending the
original size tail pipes with the type benders in muffler shops
causes wrinkles and narrowing restrictions. To compensate
I've done a number of side draft cars with the next size larger
(2 inch) tail pipe & while it doesn't hurt engine performance,
Page 6 of 8
Franklin Service Station
No. 130 (December 2010)
accurate, but a bit more complex. Sometimes cars have had
you may only notice a very slight gain in power, but it's so
slight, most drivers wouldn't be able realize it unless they had
camshafts changed and/or fan & fan housings changed and
the factory instructions no longer apply. For example a 1930
done a lot of driving with a sensitive vacuum gage hooked up
to the intake system. What the average driver is more likely to
engine with a 1932 fan, or a 1931 with a 1929 cam etc. If you
believe you have an Olympic cam and a correct fan, you
notice with a larger tail pipe is that the engine noise gets
slightly louder and deeper.
needn't worry about it and the book setting will work just
fine. tom
Since the muffler is ahead of, and more restrictive than
the tail pipe, changing to a muffler with a different internal
Question—Camber: My Father's 145 has a front end
design will have a greater affect. Especially if it's then
problem. This is a well maintained car that has never handled
combined with a larger tail pipe. In past Kepich in Florida has
right. There is a discrepancy of camber from right to left. The
made some Sidedraft mufflers for me that were a 'straight
right side is to spec (as I recall, 2 degrees?) and the left side is
through' design. Combined with a larger tail pipe, the straight
zero. You can tell by looking at the car from the front that
through muffler did show an increase in power, but with an
there is a camber discrepancy.
increase in motor exhaust noise also. It sounded much louder
We have had it to a few front end shops that specialize in
and deeper - more like a late 60's muscle car.
trucks, but they don't really want to solve the problem. One
And it can get tricky installing a larger tail pipe. You'll
printout that we got listed all the numerical data, and we
have to either,...
inferred from that that the car has a bent spindle.
1. Get the front end of the larger tail pipe necked down to
We have a 1932 Airman parts car. The front end is intact. I
fit the muffler outlet.
have heard that the track is different on the '32 cars, but will
2. Add a pipe reducer to the front of the larger tail pipe.
the spindles interchange? If not, is it possible to unbend the
3. Order a new muffler with a larger outlet to fit the new
spindle? I can just imagine supporting the spindle, threading
tail pipe, which is the best method if reducing exhaust system
on a sacrificial nut, and clobbering the thing with a
restrictions is the goal.
sledgehammer. I would like to avoid that rather "redneck"
And switching to a larger tail pipe complicates trying to
scenario, but I am also loath to drive out the kingpin & etc.
use the original tail pipe mountings.
to change the bent part. What should I do?
You'll need larger radius u-bolts and have to either file
Answer: The King pins and spindle of a 32 axle are larger
the u-bolt holes in the chassis mountings further apart, or as
in diameter than any of the earlier cars. They won't swap.
I've done sometimes, bend the tails of larger sized u-bolts in
I do not recommend trying to straighten a bent spindle.
toward each other and then bend the threaded sections reTrying to straighten it, it may only bend where it's thinnest parallel so they can use the original mounting bolt hole
between the inner and out wheel bearings. That will put the
spread. Then, because the ends have been pinched in toward
wheel bearings out of alignment with each other cause early
each other, you'll have to slip the u-bolt clamps on from the
bearing wear. It's much safer to look for another 30- 31
end of the new, larger tail pipe. Paul Fitz
spindle to swap into your car. Paul Fitz
Question—Cam/crankshaft setup: I'm setting up the timing
chain on the Olympic engine and following the verbiage in
the instruction manual. It states that the cam gear and cam
flange should have the "0"'s lined up and that the "2"'s on the
cam gear and crankshaft should then be lined. All of this with
number 1 cylinder in the firing position. I believe I've got this
correct however could you take a look at the attached photo
and let me know what you think? I am trying to avoid having
to take this apart again for any reason but especially because I
didn't get something verified.
Answer: Going by the book is the way to go, as you have
done. You have also discovered that it can be hard to know if
you really are dead on or not. So you must check the setting
and change it if needed.
To do so, install the fan and test your setting by the
owner's book. Follow the instructions in "to Set Camshaft" in
the manual. After you have aligned the "2"s, you'll have to
check is as the book outlines. You'll have to mock up the fan,
but you don't need to install the fan housing if you install a
pointer that will point to the "o" mark on the fan rim when the
engine is at top dead center.
Check as the book outlines and change the cam gear
setting if needed, then check again. This method is accurate just be sure you are within the book spec of 3 7/17" to 4 3/16"
as outlined in the book. If you do not have this section, let me
know and I will send it.
We set every cam with a degree wheel which is more
Question—Stromberg U-3 Carburetor: I have a 12 B that,
like every 12B today, has an incorrect carburetor, one that I
believe is from a Studebaker, a Stromberg U-23. I can't get
the U-23 to work quite right. It always runs too rich. The car
uses exactly twice the fuel that a Model A consumes, and the
exhaust has that distinct "too rich" smell, and the idle is
inconsistent. I found a spare Stromberg U-3 carburetor in
my Father's spare parts pile. Can I adapt the Stromberg U-3
to the 12B? It looks like it might fit right on, but there is the
problem of a different displacement, as well as the gravity
fuel delivery on the 12B vs. the fuel pump on the ser. 14.
Answer: The U-3 is way too big. In fact it's a little on the
big side even for the Sidedraft motors.
The carb venturi has to be properly sized to the motor,
then the jets/restrictions/bleeds sized to work with that
venturi, and that motor. Even the Series 135/137, which is
the same 274 cubic inch displacement as the sidedrafts, uses
a smaller venturi in the T-2, then the Potmetal U-2, then the
cast iron U-2 progression of carbs that were used in 1929.
The Series 130 used those same model carbs, but they were
slightly smaller internally than their sister carbs used on the
135-137.
A cast iron U-2 from a Series 130 would work well on
your Series 12, or the OE-2 of a Series 11B. But, both of
those carb models are getting hard to find.
You can call Tom Hanniford at the Antique Auto Parts
No. 130 (December 2010)
Franklin Service Station
Page 7 of 8
member Don Kitchen in Connecticut. Since the number of
Cellar (781-335-1579) and order a new, universal-fit Zenith
rivet holes changed from year to year, make sure to let Don
updraft. They come in three sizes, so don't forget to tell him
know if you need 22 hole, or 24 hole fabric centers.
the motor size and carb mounting flange size - bolt center to
The correct rivets and burrs for installing the clutch
bolt center.
fabric
centers (and cooling fan centers) are an odd-ball size
By the way, the U-23 can be made to work. We had
and
need
special tooling to install. If you need those done let
another one that I fixed to go on a Series 12 touring when I
me
know.
Paul Fitz
re-built the motor. The U-23 needs some part changes to fine
tune it to that application, but the motor runs very well after
Question—Brake fluid leak: What would be a "permanent"
those changes. Paul Fitz.
fix for brake fluid leaking at the copper washered joint of the
brake hose to the wheel cylinder?
Question—Damaged Bearing: I wonder if you can help me
Answer: Usually a new copper sealing washer does the
please. The engine in my Franklin has a damaged bearing in
trick. An old washer may sometimes be annealed and reused
the number 2 con rod to crankshaft joint (known here as a
if in good condition. Burrs must be removed from mating
"big end" bearing). When we dismantled the bearing we
surfaces , but are not so common. Two washers are required,
were surprised to find that it contained detachable shell
one under the bolt head. Using DOT 5 fluid will usually
bearing surfaces which had broken into pieces, The crank is
worsen a small leak. Tom
unmarked. If possible, would you kindly let me know if
Answer cont.: Sometimes with new paint and parts, after
replacement bearing shells are available and from where
time, the bolt through the banjo fitting just needs a bit of
they may be obtained.
snugging up, but beware of over tightening, there's only a
I had previously thought that the bearings were hand
few threads contacting in there. If that doesn't stop the leak,
formed from white metal so the shells may be a
replace the the two copper washers. They are two differant
modification. What do you think?
sizes and are still available at auto parts stores. Paul Fitz
Answer: Since Franklin held many Die Casting process
patents, they did a lot of precision die casting in house. The
Question—Cylinder head gasket leak: How can I find a
rod bearings are one example of their precision work.
cylinder head gasket leak? My engine makes a whistling or
There are no replacement inserts available. It is advisable
chirping sound under load.
today to bond cast babbitt to the big end and machine as one
Answer: Do you know which one whistles? What happens
would do on another con rod of the period. Bonding to the
when you try to tighten the stud that is under the exhaust
forged aluminum is tricky - it's best to use an outfit with
manifold, or the two adjacent studs (the only ones you can
experience in babbitting aluminum rods. Do not let them
get a wrench on)?
drill anchor holes into the rod to hold the babbitt.
You can certainly pull one jug to fix a chirp. Tom
I hope this helps, Tom Rasmussen
Question cont.: I don't know which one whistles, and it only
happens under a load. So I thought perhaps a compression
Question—Honeycomb Radiator: I'm contacting you on
test.
behalf of a friend who recently purchased a 1929 Franklin
Answer cont.: Can you make the chirp when the engine is
Sedan. It has the original honeycomb simulated radiator
full hot by stabbing the throttle?
material behind the "radiator" chrome grill. This honeycomb
If so then you can open the air box door so you can see the
material has deteriorated and he is looking for a source for
cylinders and have someone work the throttle to make it
this material.
chirp. Squirt a little oil into the intake and you can
Can you make any suggestions for a source or acceptable
frequently see the smoke coming right out of the cyl/head
replacement material? Any information you could share
joint when snapping the throttle open quickly.
would be greatly appreciated.
A compression gauge will not show anything since it is
Answer: I don't know of any source making the downnot
leaking
except under heavy load & hot.
angled honeycomb. My advice is, if the original can't be
The best ways to find it are to tighten the head nuts one
fixed, place want ads for a honey comb grill that is in better
at a time & drive between each time, or the smoke test if it's
condition here on the website and in the Franklin Service
really bad.
Station. Good hunting, Paul Fitz
Another thought though - many find that they repair one
Question—Clutch: I am a new member of the club and
chirp only to have another one before too long in another
enjoying owning my 1924 model 10. I have had the car a
cylinder. Many who drive these cars a lot, prefer to pull
few weeks but ran into a clutch failure problem. The center
every head and install helicoils in each short stud. To date,
rubber composite flex coupling failed probably do to old
I've never had a stud pull or cylinder head leak with
age. I have read the Q/A for the 11 years and found answers
helicoils. Fix 'em all for good. tom
for most of my questions but I am not sure about one thing.
My clutch is 10 in and I need to know the max thickness of
each friction disc. I know you mention that .130 in is max
but that is for a 11 in clutch.
Answer: Welcome to the Franklin Club. The Series 10
clutch facings (friction discs) are the same 1/8 inch thickness
as the later clutch facings - just differant inside/outside
diameters.
New rubber/fabric centers are available from Club
The H. H. Franklin Club, Inc.
c/o Cazenovia College
Cazenovia NY 13035-7903
DECEMBER
FIRST-CLASS MAIL
U.S. POSTAGE
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Permit No. 100
2010
Page 8 of 8
Franklin Service Station
No. 130 (December 2010)
of
difficulty.
That
said,
if
someone
were to take on the effort
Carburetor, continued
to recast (Stromberg) T-2’s, I would certainly be interested.”
The tech article this month summarizes the functions of
Bill’s comments and final entreaty are quite timely. As
the various Franklin carburetors from 1902 to 1924. Many of
mentioned in last FSS issue’s article, the catastrophic failure
us have missing or badly broke original carbs and have been
rate of the die-cast T-2’s is very near 100%. The are a lot of
forced into substitute carbs. The article suggests some
Series 12 Franklins out there.
replacements. There may be other ideas out there in Franklin
Paul Fitzpatrich has a nice answer to a Series 12 owners
owner-land.
question
about a replacement for his car. Paul’s discussion is
So please let me know of your experiences, good and bad.
in the “Wit & Wisdom” section in this issues entitled
One Owner’s Experience—S12
“Stromberg U3 Carburetor”, page 7
Bill Eby of DC sent a wonderful letter describing his
Project to reproduce Franklin Cross Engine Carburetors
experience with his 1928 S12B: “The carburetor in my
Jeff Hasslen is in the design and prototype testing of
engine is a Zenith, Model 14992-B. This carb was installed by
segments
of reproducing the original Franklin cross engine
the previous owner so I am not familiar with any research
carburetor
(1903-06). As such, Jeff is interested in hearing
done to determine its applicability. However, I am happy with
from
interested
folks.
the performance of this carb, in general. The car starts very
I
certainly
want to participate in this project. While my
well idles smoothly, and runs on the road nice and smooth. I
car runs very well on a contemporary replacement, I would
get about 14 mpg with it. The flange, linkages and choke
live to have an “original” to preserve the original character of
cable seem to line up without much problem. The original air
the car. Stan Wilkinson was a real stickler for making things
filter fits.
as original as possible. He found two engines for parts but
“The downside is that it must be for a tractor or
none of the engines had an original carb. So my car has a
stationary engine because it does not have an accelerator
good working replacement.
circuit (or one so inadequate as not to be noticeable). The
lack of an accelorator circuit adds a bit of a bog when shiting
Send Us your Experiences
if you are driving briskly. (Ed. Not: probably a “flat spot”).
Again, please send me your carb experiences. I’ll publish
But in sedate driving it is not much of a problem.
themMaybe someday, a Santa Clause will bring us a new T-2
“I have thought about replacing it with an OE1, OE2 or
for all of those heavy-breathing Series 12’s
Carter BB1. But, since they are no more original than the
In the meantime, Merry Christmas to each of you !!
Zenith, and I am generally happy with the Zenith, I usually
entertain that idea for short periods. Every time I try to fix
something tha is not broken, I usually find myself in all kinds
Tim Miller