79-14-ET-V1-S1__unit.. - e

Subject: Surface Embellishment
Unit 2 – Techniques of Surface Embellishment
Quadrant 1 – e-Text
Learning Objectives
The learning objectives of this unit are:
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2.1
List the materials and equipment required for hand embroidery.
Implement the different hand embroidery stitches and their variations.
Define applique.
Give examples of applique and its variations.
Implement the various applique techniques for surface embellishment.
Define embellishments used on textiles.
List the traditional embellishments used on fashion products.
Apply the embellishments on textiles using various stitches.
List unconventional natural and man-made materials which could be used for creative /
innovative surface embellishments.
Examine unconventional or alternate materials using various techniques.
Materials and Equipment Required for Hand Embroidery
Introduction
Tools and materials are the raw materials used in embroidery. A wide variety of tools and
materials are available in the market which is used for embroidery. They have to be selected
wisely according to the type of embroidery. The materials that one selects for embroidery work
have to be chosen wisely as they affect its quality to a great extent.
The basic tools used are: Embroidery threads, Cotton threads, Silk threads, Fabric, Needles,
Scissors, Trimmer, Embroidery frames, Threader, Thimble and Unpicker.
Embroidery Threads
Embroidery threads are available in the form of small skeins in various colours and thicknesses,
and can also be made up of different fibres. Depending on the requirement, single strands of
thread are used or sometimes twisted and used as a single thread.
Cotton Threads
There are various kinds of cotton threads.
1. Cotton threads where six strands of thread are loosely twisted together. One or two
strands are separated from the ply and are used for the embroidery.
2. Lustrous two-ply threads that cannot be separated and thus are used as such.
3. Thick and matte finish 5 ply thread which are used foe heavy fabrics.
4. Tightly twisted soft, fine threads with less lustrous finish.
Silk Threads
Silk threads are available in a wide variety of colours, the strands of which can be separated and
used like the cotton threads. This must be dry cleaned, and is comparatively difficult to work
with.
Fabric
Fabric plays an important role in the quality of work. The fabric is selected according to the
embroidery to be done.
Needles
Embroidery needles are available in the market in different sizes and types. Different sizes are
used for different types of embroidery. Types of needles are:
1. Long eyed needles
2. Round eyed needles
3. Tapestry needles
4. Poker
Scissors
Scissors are used to cut fabrics and trim threads. There are different types of scissors such as:
1. Dress makers scissors
2. Small pointed scissors
3. Pointed scissors
Trimmer
A Trimmer is used to trim off excess threads for a neat finish.
Embroidery Frames
Embroidery frames are used to hold the fabric tight in place to facilitate embroidery.
Frames can be wooden or plastic which are called as hoops. There are square and rectangle
frames too.
Threader
A Threader is used to insert the thread through the eyelet of the needle.
Thimble
A Thimble is used to protect the finger during embroidery.
Unpicker
An unpicker is used to undo mistakes and take out stitches during embroidery. Other tools that
are used are: Tracing paper, Board kin, Zigzag or pinking shears, Glue or paste, Ruler or pencils.
Materials Used in Embroidery
Materials used for embroidery are: Plastic and glass stones, Crystals, Zardozi, Zari, Kora, Beads,
Sequins, Pearls, Precious and Semi-precious stones, Gotta, Plastic and glass mirrors, Ribbons for
ribbon embroidery.
Basic Steps to Start Embroidery Work
Embroidery is the art of working ornamental designs on items such as cloth and leather with
decorative stitches. There are different kinds of embroidery which are known in various names
such as cutwork, smocking and mirror work. It is essential to learn the basic stitches for
successful embroidery work. In addition, you should acquire the ability to choose the right kind
of stitches, designs and colour combinations suited to the type of fabric and the purpose and use
of the garment or article on which the embroidery is to be worked on. The first step in
embroidery work is to transfer the design. After selecting the design for embroidery work, the
markings for the design should be transferred to the right side of the fabric or material on which
the work is to be done, without soiling it. There are several ways of transferring the design. The
simplest way is to buy an “iron-on” transfer available commercially.
This has to be kept face down on the material and pressed with a hot iron. Before removing the
paper, lift up one corner to make sure that the design has been transferred. The most commonly
used method of transferring the design is using a carbon paper. First, trace the design on a tracing
paper. Next, keep carbon papers with its waxed side facing the right side of the fabric.
Keep the traced design over the carbon paper, pin in position and trace over it with a sharp
pencil. In this case the fabrics will not trace the marks easily, tack the paper design on to the
fabric and work small running stitches along the outline of the pattern catching the cloth. Then
tear off the paper, so that the cloth is left with the stitched outline.
2.2 Hand Embroidery Stitches and Their Variations
Embroidery is the art of decorating cloths and other materials with thread needle and different
types and shapes of beats and pearls, metal strips and other decorative
materials.
Embroidery is widely used in India for decoration of fabrics and other materials.
Dress materials such as saris, kurta and cap. It is also used for decoration of cushions and sofa
covers, cartons, blankets as well as coats and shoes. Embroidery work is available with wide
range of colors and thread and other materials.
Various stitches are used in this work some of them are chain stitch, blanket stitch or button hole
stitch, cross stitch and running stitch.
India is a diversified country having varied range of cultures and custom. Embroidery has played
a prominent role in the tradition of India. The range of embroidery styles is closely linked to
regional variations, both in materials and in stitch types. For example, embroidery in Kashmir is
often made with locally produced wool, while fine cotton muslin is used as the ground cloth for
the traditional embroidery of Bengal.
These variations can be seen in the usage of basic stitches as well. While some stitches like chain
stitch may be found all over India, while others like interlacing hurmstitch identify the
embroidery as being from certain parts of Pakistan or western India. Examples of these
variations are: embroidery in Kashmir is often made with locally produced wool, while fine
cotton muslin is used as the ground cloth for the traditional embroidery of Bengal. These
variations can be seen in the usage of basic stitches as well. While some stitches like chain stitch
may be found all over India, others like interlacing hurmstitch identify the embroidery as being
from certain parts of Pakistan or western India.
But as a matter of fact, all the traditional embroidery types across India uses the basic hand
embroidery stitches, used in specific patterns and designs to give the final result.
Kantha of Bengal uses the most basic running stitch, while chikankari from Lucknow uses a
variety of stitches and techniques to produce the unique intricate patterns.
Popular Embroidery Techniques in India:
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Kantha Embroidery
Chikankari Embroidery
Zardozi Embroidery
Kasuthi Embroidery
Kashida Embroidery
Phulkari Embroidery
7. Kutch Work Embroidery
8. Toda Embroidery
9. Kathi Embroidery
10. Banjara Embroidery
11. Rabari Embroidery
Kantha Embroidery
Kantha is the traditional form of embroidery of West Bengal. It is a running style of stitch. This
embroidery is done on many layers of cloth. It is done on quilts, bedsheets, blankets, saris,
salwar suits, stoles and napkins. It is also known as Dorukha. This word means making worn out
garments into beautiful garments. Therefore it is also known as recycling art. In earlier times the
worn out silk or muslin clothes where used to be put in piles and stitched together. It is believed
that its date of origin lies during the era of Lord Buddha when people used to drape themselves
with rags of clothes that were stitched together.
The artists usually embroidery images of human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and
mythological figures. Generally, the worker selects the figure of embroidery to which they relate
to.
There are different types of kantha that are done. They are: Sujani Kantha, Durjani Kantha, Lep
Kantha, Archilata Kantha, Rumal Kantha, Oaar Kantha. Different types of patterns like jaal, folk
life designs, dhan chori, etc are done in kantha embroidery. The rural women of West Bengal
usually do it on cotton saris with thread taken from the borders of the sari and done all over.
Kantha embroidery is generally done on cotton and silk fabrics. Kantha embroidery is running
stitches used for making floral
motifs, images of birds, animals, and geometrical figures. It is also used for making blankets and
quilts by stitching five or six layers of cloth.
Chikankari Embroidery
The state of Uttar Pradesh especially the city of Lucknow is considered to be the hub of
Chikankari embroidery. Chikankari is derived from the word ‘Chakeen’ that means elegant
patterns on the fabric which is a Persian word. Earlier it was done with white thread on muslin
clothes. However, now it is being done on various types of fabrics like cotton, linen, nylon,
georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Apart from wearable garments it is also done on various
other things such as curtains, bedsheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers.
Unlike earlier times it is not only done on white colored cloths, but also fabrics of various colors.
But the thread used for the embroidery is generally white. Various motifs are embroidered
through it like floral motifs which include flowers such as rose, lotus, jasmine and creepers.
There are many types of stitches used to make beautiful chikankari embroidery such as chain
stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch.
The most beautiful is the motif having design created in the form of net or jhali all over the
garment by generating thread tension. Shadow work is also done by Chikan embroidery which is
done on the opposite side of the garment. This effect is created by working herringbone stitches
on the wrong side of the cloth, and only the shadow of these patterns is visible on the right side.
There are three types of chikankari stitches:
Jali Work:
It is done in the form of net design spread all over the fabric.
Flat stitches:
The flat stitches are delicate and very fine stitch. It gives the look as if the embroidery is itself
the texture of the garment.
Embossed Stitches:
These stitches provide a beaded type of look to the garment.
Zardozi Embroidery
Zardozi work is an ancient form of embroidery basically done with gold or silver zari threads. It
is also known as metal embroidery. Although, now-a-days it is also done with colored metal
threads.
The word Zardozi is derived by combining two words Zar and Dozi which in Persian language
means gold and embroidery respectively. Therefore, it is clear that this art of embroidery was
originated in Persia which was bought to India by Moghuls. Initially, it was done with real metal
threads of gold and silver. It was done on clothes for the rich
and royal, wall hangings and bedsheets. In between the application of pearls and precious stones
looks stunning on it. Basically, it is done on silk, crepe, brocade and velvet fabrics.
Zardozi embroidery saw its decline during the reign of Aurangzeb. It was revived after
Independence.
Zardozi work is an extension of zari embroidery which is done with crochet hook. The
embroidery done gives the appearance of chain stitch. The things required for doing zardozi are
beads, dabka, coiled wires and sequins.
As zardozi is done with coiled metal wires studded with stones, beads, etc is heavy in weight
therefore is done on fabrics that are thick and heavy such as silk, velvet, stain and crepe. Thus
the choice of fabrics is also royal and expensive. The design to be done is first traced on the
fabric, then spread on the wooden frame. Further, the
embroidery is done by picking up single thread in the needle and sewing it into the cloth.
This art requires patience and is quite complicated. Expertise is required to do it properly. It is
also expensive. Earlier zardozi was done on wearable garments and bedspreads mainly for royal
families. But now it has got into the reach of common people also. Clothes with zardozi are an
integral part for any wedding or important functions as it depicts royalty. Apart from wearable
garments, zardozi is also done on cushion covers, table cloths, wall hangings and fabric purses.
Kasuthi Embroidery
Kasuthi embroidery is a traditional form of embroidery design practiced in the state of
Karnataka. Usually, the embroidery is done over Ilkal and Kanchivaram saris. It includes
designing meticulous patterns like palanquin, gopura, chariot, lamps and conch shells. This
embroidery work involves hard labour and microscopic eyes, for it requires counting of each
thread individually. The patterns are stitched without any knots to make sure that both sides of
the cloth looks identical. Different varieties of stitches are employed. Some of them are Ganti,
Murgi, Neyge and Menthe.
Ganti
Ganti is a double running stitch used for marking vertical, horizontal and diagonal lines.
Murgi
Murgi is a zig-zag stitch.
Neyge
Neyge is a running stitch.
Menthe
Menthe is a cross stitch resembling fenugreek seeds. The Kasuti work, however, lacks patronage
in the age of machines. It’s nevertheless preferred by the natives of Karnataka. The material on
which the embroidery is executed is a hand woven cloth of dark colour, usually black. The
sarees, known as Ilkal sarees, have a wide silk pallu and border, the main fabric being thick soft
cotton. The largest and most closely spaced motifs are placed near the pallu. As the embroiderer
moves towards the main part of the saree the motifs become smaller and more scattered until
they fade away gracefully with clusters of stars or mere dots.
The most frequently used colors are red, purple, green, orange and crimson. Patterns in only one
or two colors are extremely rare and the usual colour combinations are orange, green and
crimson or purple, green, orange and red, the brighter shades of these being preferred. The
Kasuti embroidery is done in silk which, earlier, was unpicked from the tassels pendant from the
pallu. Later it came to be obtained commercially. The basic embroidery stitches used in Kasuti
work are the back stitch, running stitch, cross stitch and zig-zag running stitch.
In certain work the overall effect is of a woven design rather than of embroidery. Kasuti stitches
are horizontal, vertical or diagonal. These are used going in one direction, the design being
completed on the return journey by filling in the blank portions in the running stitch. The kasuthi
worker uses no help such as drawing out threads or tracing the motifs to help set the pattern. The
Kausti pattern is in the mind and is built up with just the needle moving in different directions.
In Coorg the basic stitches used are cross and double running stitches. The basic design is done
in cross stitch but the static quality of cross stitch is relieved by working the projections in
running stitch. Here also the motifs combine religion, nature and articles of daily use.
Kashida Embroidery
Kashmiri embroidery (also known as Kashida), is as colourful and as beautiful as Kashmir itself.
Embroiderers often draw inspiration from nature. Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers, chinar
leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus and trees are the most common themes. The entire pattern is uses
one or two embroidery stitches. Kashida is primarily done on canvas with crystal threads, but
Kashida also employs pashmina and leather threads.
Kashida embroidery, which is famous for its sheer beauty, has attained the limits of fantasy and
incredulity. Patterns and colour schemes are magnificently employed in Kashida by the craftsman with a mood aligned to the spirit of nature.
Commercial items include bed spreads, sofa and floor cushions, and pillow covers.
This embroidery is revealed in shawls and in cottage industry done by the members of families in
Srinagar. Kashmiri embroidery is practiced by men and it is essentially a commercial craft. The
base cloth, whether wool or cotton, is generally white or crème or a similar shade. Pastel colors
are also often used.
The craftsmen use shades that blend with the background. Thread colours are inspired by local
flowers. Only one or two stitches are employed on one fabric. The motifs are mainly taken from
nature. Animal and human figures are not seen in this embroidery. Bird motifs such as parrots,
woodpeckers and kingfishers are seen on the shawls. Floral motifs like lily, lotus, iris, saffron
flower and tulips are mostly seen on the shawls. Other designs like grapes, cherries, almonds and
apples are favourites. The chinar leaf is considered an important motif. Simple stitches such as
satin stitch, stem stitch and chain stitch are used.
Occasionally, the darning and herringbone are used. Crewel embroidery is done with the use of
hook. Kashida is a general term for Kashmir embroidery, which includes other stitches such as
Zalakdo (chain stitch), Vatachik (Buttonhole stitch) and Talibar (Gold work). One outstanding
feature of the embroidery is the fact that it is made with a single thread giving a flat, formalized
appearance to the design.
The satin stitch has been adopted to cover larger surface without pulling the cloth. It has become
the variation of long and short stitch. Chain is used only in inferior places
and never on expensive piece of work. The Indian customer sets a great store by embroidery
which displays the same fineness on both sides so as to make the wrong side distinguishable
from right and Kashmiri workman has made himself adept at this art. This embroidery is done on
silk, cotton and wool fabrics. Colourful fabrics such as white (sufed), green (zingari), purple
(uder), blue (ferozi), yellow (zard) and black (mushki) are used. The threads used are wool,
cotton and silk.
Phulkari Embroidery
Phulkari embroidery technique from the Punjab region (divided between India and Pakistan)
literally means flower working, which was at one time used as the word for embroidery, but in
time the word “Phulkari” became restricted to embroidered shawls and head scarfs. The word
phul means flower and kari means craft, thus its name, literally means floral work or floral craft.
Simple and sparsely embroidered odini (head scarfs), dupatta and shawls, made for everyday use,
are called Phulkaris, whereas garments that cover the entire body, made for special and
ceremonial occasions like weddings and birth of a son, fully covered fabric is called Baghs
("garden") and scattered work on the fabric is called "adha bagh" (half garden). This whole work
is done with white or yellow silk floss on cotton khaddarh and starts from the center on the fabric
called "chashm-e-bulbul" and spreads to the whole fabric.
Phulkari is considered as an important part of the trousseau in Punjab. Each of the important
ceremonies connected with marriage is associated with wearing of a particular type of Baugh. A
Baugh or Phulkari, therefore, is not only a beautiful traditional art but a symbol of maternal love
and faith expressed in embroidery. The beauty of Phulkari depended a great deal on the colour of
the ground material.
Khaddar cloth which was hand spun and hand woven cotton material, is always used for
embroidery. The colour is mostly red, white, blue or black. The thread used is pure silk. It is
untwisted silken floss called PAT. Golden yellow, green, white, crimson red and orange are the
five colours prepared in selecting silk floss for Phulkari work.
The motifs are made up of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches, producing geometric pattern
in Phulkari designs, while the Baugh has an overall geometrically floral pattern. The stitch craft
of Phulkari consists long short darning stitches. It is a unique method of embroidery in that it is
worked entirely on the wrong side of the cloth and the pattern takes shape on the right side. The
design is neither drawn nor traced. There are many types of Phulkari.
The ‘Chope’ and ‘Suber’, Saloo, Til Patra and Nilak.
The 'Chope' and 'Suber'
These were wedding Phulkari presented to the bride by her maternal relations during the
marriage ceremony.
Saloo
A plain red / dark red khaddar shawl is used for daily household wear.
Til Patra
‘Til Para’ shawls have very little embroidery and are inferior quality Khaddar.
Nilak
‘Nilak’ is worked on black or navy blue Khaddar with yellow and crimson red pat.
Kutch Work Embroidery
Kutch work embroidery (also known as Kachchhi embroidery) is one of the most easily
identifiable styles of embroidery from Gujarat and a well patronised handicraft textile in India.
Deriving its name from its places of origin, the Kutch and Saurashtra regions of Gujarat, Kutch
embroidery is characterised by the use of vibrant colors, mirrors and beads and intricate and
extensive needlework that embellishes the entire fabric on which it is based.
Usually done on cotton or silk fabric, Kutch work embroidery involves the use of silk or woollen
thread in fine stitches to create elaborate patterns, and draws its inspiration from romantic,
architectural and human motifs, as well as Persian and Mughal arts.
Usually done on cotton or silk fabric, Kutch work embroidery involves the use of silk or woollen
thread in fine stitches to create elaborate patterns, and draws its inspiration from romantic,
architectural and human motifs, as well as Persian and Mughal arts.
A popular and recognized example of Kutch embroidery is the ghagra choli (a traditional skirt
and blouse ensemble) of Gujarat, especially worn during the Navaratri season.
Ghagra Choli
This is a type of embroidery from the Indian state of Gujarat, and is especially popular in the
Kutch and Bhuj regions. The embroidery of this region is bright, bold, and colorful, perhaps to
beat the mood of the dry desert land. Mirrors, beads and tassels
are liberally used making the embroidery very rich, yet not gaudy. Threads and fabrics
traditionally used are cotton and silk. These days however, cotton fabrics and threads are
favored. Some of the stitches used are chain, double buttonhole, interlacing, running, stem and
herringbone.
Toda Embroidery
The southern parts of Tamil Nadu are surrounded by very beautiful Nilgiri Hills.
Within these hills lives a Tribal Community called Toda. They are experts in embroidery called
Toda which is world famous. It is a distinct style of embroidery locally called Pugur, which
means flower. This fine and intricate embroidery is done by tribal men and women on shawls.
The shawl adorned with the Toda embroidery is called Poothkuli.
This particular shawl has alternate red and black stripes at the gap of six inches. The embroidery
is done on the stripes of red and black colour. Motifs are worked, by counting the threads. The
embroidery is so fine that it looks like weaving. Embroidery is reversible and Todas use the
rougher under side of the fabric as the right side. This embroidery is carried from one generation
to other generation. The embroidery is basically on cotton fabric by counting the thread by
counting the thread.
Fabric Used
Cotton fabric is used for toda embroidery. The fabric should be loosely woven because the
embroidery is done by counting the weaves.
Colours
The colour of the ground fabric is off-white. The colours of the threads are red and black. These
are the various facts of this embroidery. Basically all traditional embroidery inspiration is taken
from nature, day-to-day life activities, mythological stories and reflects the colours of flaura and
fauna of that particular region. The embroidery of the particular region tells the story of the
particular region. In this case, also, the motifs are inspired by the local surroundings. Buffalo
horn is the most important motif because the tribals worship the buffalo. Other motifs used are
Izhadvinpuguti, which is a motif named after their priest, mettvi kanpugur is a box. Other
popular motifs are the sun, moon, stars, flowers, snakes and rabbits.
Along with the famous toda shawls various other items made from this embroidery are
traditional drapes, puthukulis, dupattas, table cloth, stoles, kurtis, pyjamas, skirts, pants and
salwar-kurta. To sum up, embroidery is basically an expression of beauty, aesthetics which an
artist portrays with a needle and thread.
This tribal embroidery of Tamil Nadu is very distinctive and it should be preserved as this
embroidery is dying. We should use this embroidery in different articles as purse, pouches and
retail it in the international and national market. This will enable us to revive and save India’s
rich cultural heritage.
Kathi Embroidery
Kathi bharat or Kathipa style of embroidery with its long stitches and embossed designs
executed all over the fabric in a playful manner, brings out the joyous pleasure of fabrication
experienced by the creator. Geometric patterns engulfed between borders constructing chequered
forms, illustrated by linear long stitches and contrasting colours define the design vocabulary of
Kathi bharat. Repeating patterns of six to eight pointed stars, triangles and squares arranged to
form a symphonic composition and glittering mirrors set amidst the forms adds in aesthetical
splendour to this vibrant form of embroidery. Design patterns are emphasized by the use of
elongated darn stitches along with herringbone stitches accentuating the borders or outlines. The
stitches in triangles run in parallel to the warp and weft creating interesting play of light and
shade with a single colour of yarn or thread.
Abhla or mirrors are inset with buttonhole stitches amid squares and triangles harmonizing the
curves and even lines. Narrative and figurative elements like humans, animals and birds along
with landscapes also form an essential part of this style of embroidery. Kathipa style of
embroidery is also locally known as heer, from the flossy silk yarn used for the creation. Bold
motifs adorned in rich contrasting colours inset with mirrors create a colourful depiction in dark
blue, orange, purple, indigo, black, deep red with little hints of yellow and green. The traditional
attire of kathi women flaunt this style and have become an intrinsic part of costumes worn by
both rural and urban women during Navratri. Besides the garments, kathipa bharat is also used in
creating a range of home adorning textiles like chaklas, torans or textile doorframes, cushion
covers and mats.
Banjara Embroidery
Banjara Embroidery and Needle work has been derived from the gypsies and nomads of
Telangana. This form of embroidery is basically a local art form of the tribals or ‘Banjaras’
living in Telangana. Colorful, vibrant and live are the words synonymous with this embroidery.
The colourful lifestyle of the Banjaras residing in this state is displayed through their highspirited clothes. The embroidery done by Kutch Banjaras and Gujarat Banjaras is slightly
different.
This embroidery is unique in its style and a matchless quality has been achieved by using
brightness and originality. The intricate embroidery done as part of this art form involves a lot of
geometrical combinations using squares, diamonds and triangles. Colourful threads are used in
the embroidery that reflects the vibrant life style of the Banjaras. Their imagination knows no
bounds, and they just need a needle, a piece of cloth and some colorful thread. To embellish an
article, they also make use of shells, beads and mirrors.
Mirrors are extensively used in Banjara embroidery and this is the distinctive feature of this art
form. The sunlight reflected through the mirrors accentuates the beauty of this work. A
cornucopia of designs and figures are created using simple stitches such as herringbone, chain
stitch, short and long stitch. A wide array of articles are made using this embroidery such as
bags, dress sets for women and girls, cushion covers, skirts, blouse pieces, kurtas, household
furnishings and bedspreads. Banjara Embroidery is known for its vibrancy in colours and use of
articles like coins, cowrie shells, woolen tassles, beads, mirrors, cotton and many others as
embellishments.
The textiles embroidered by them simply look stunning. Andhra Pradesh women wear gorgeous
cholis, ghaghras and odnis with bold mirror and appliqué work. In adjoining states, the similar
embroidery work is done in a more subtle manner and the use of embellishments is slightly less
than Andhra Pradesh. Beautiful square and rectangle work embroidered using stem and cross
stitches is carried out in Maharashtra and Nimar and Malwa districts in Madhya Pradesh. They
also use herring bone stitch closely together among a grid. Angularly zoomorphic or geometric
designs are created on the textiles. Tassled rumals are mostly embroidered and then edged with
mirrors or cowries. Other articles are batua or purse, women clothes like odhnis, cholis and
ghaghras. The embroidery is majorly done of a blue or a brown coloured cloth that are quilted. In
this way, the colour contrast is easily decipherable and moreover, the embroidery comes out
beautifully. Sometimes, quilting stitches are used in patterning in which cotton threads are used
to create unusual geometric patterns.
Sometimes, cotton or woolen thread is used to create intricate embroidery. Besides purses, bags
and clothes, a head ring is also embroidered using unique stitches. This is also known as
“indhoni” and a woman keeps it on her hand to balance a water pot on her head.
Rabari Embroidery
Picturesque and vivid Rabari bharat eulogizes creativity and imaginative fervor executed on any
piece of textiles. The spontaneous compositions, vibrant colours and graphical motifs add in
vivacity to fashion products while amassing spirit and vigor in life style accessories.
Symmetrical and asymmetrical motifs conceptualized based on the surrounding topography and
reflecting a lot of verve and pleasure in creation symbolizes their wandering lives.
Rabari embroidery is a plethora of square, triangular, rectangular, circular patterns composing to
form abstract motifs of birds and animals, flowers and fruits, landscape and seascape, insects and
reptiles. Linear abstraction filled in with intricate stitches
and mirrors are simply created reflecting the observant and exceptional nature of a Rabari
woman. Chain stitch accompanied by an array of accent stitches adds in graphically illustrative
quality in their needlework. The ‘bakhiya’ local name for the back stitch is one of the simplest
stitches adding in a lot of emphasis to their creative work. The bright and vibrant colour palette
used on the contrasting background of white or black with sparkling mirrors is easily
distinguished with other needle works in the region.
One of the most distinctive characteristics of Rabari embroidery is the contrasting and nonrepetitive use of colours. Earlier the term Rabari was loosely applied to migratory camel herders
having similar customs and beliefs due to their profession so different. Sub-communities of
Rabaris have their own legends of origin. While some call themselves the ancestral keepers of
Shivas camels, others seem to have migrated in the recent past on account of Islamic invasions
from the North. Due to their knowledge of the terrain and a community which dealt with dray
animals they were often entrusted with the task of transporting goods, trade materials and even
people. Each community and culturally linked group in Gujarat is distinctively identified by the
kind of embroidered costuming, body tattoos and living settlements. Rabari embroidery is
uniquely suited to their lifestyle and a young girl is initiated to the craft form by her mother.
2.2
Conclusion
In this unit, you have learnt about the materials and equipment required for hand embroidery.
You have also been explained about the various hand embroidery stitches and how to implement
these in your work.