Heritage Magazine Issue #27
Transcription
Heritage Magazine Issue #27
ourHeritage 1 www.waseemjewellers.com waseem.jewellers@yahoo.com 2 ourHeritage ourHeritage 3 CONTENTS ourHeritage A HOME OF RICH HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE 40 ISSUE 27 Landi Kotal Loosing A Heritage 02 This historical, landmark railway track which is an engineering wonder was built on November 3, 1925, 06 Travelling To The Source Of Romantic River Kunhar 06 Heavenly beauty, River Kunhar, the lifeline of the Kaghan valley, flows throughout the valley. For The Love Of Written Word Faiz appreciators from all over Pakistan thronging the halls , the Adbi Baithaks and the lawns and bye-lanes of the Alhamra complex and the open air shows at Burney Gardens. Paisley in Pashmina 02 28 The song of the paisley is an old one. Sung by numerous weavers and now the automatic weaving machines. Say It With Chocolates A gift of chocolates makes it easy to express our feelings, it is also remedy to cure a broken heart Hari Singh Nalwa Sikh warrior Hari Singh Nalwa topped the list as one of the most outstanding conquerors of the world followed by Changez Khan and Alexander as second & third in ranking Kharoshtī script Kharoshtī script is one of the legacies the remind the modern world the glory of Gandhara civilization 4 ourHeritage Punjpeer Rocks 44 Golf In Pakistan 56 Virtual Pakistan 60 Skardu A Doorway To Adventure 10 Desi Writers’ Lounge - a dedicated website with accompanying forums. Faiz International Festival 40 64 28 32 36 Where the grass is green forever Google Cultural Institute, a special project is dedicated to some of Pakistan’s cultural and historical sites. Called the “Wonder of Pakistan” Skardu is the administrative town of Baltistan and a staging post to witness some of nature’s most violent episodes 16 22 “Open Sesame”, and there opens the doors to an invisible land which only reveals its beauty to one who utters the magical words. Tent In Islamic History Tent primarily is a temporary shelter, usually made of flexible materials stretched over poles, wooden or of bamboos. 24 Our Heritage is an in-house magazine of Hashoo Group-Hotel Division. No part of it may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Views expressed are those of the writers and not necessarily those of Editorial Board. Responsibility of the contents of the advertisements lies with advertisers. Our Heritage is published by Pakistan Services Limited for Hashoo Group-Hotel Division. This magazine has been prepared by Events, Marketing & Communications Department, Pakistan Services Limited For advertisements and articles for this magazine, marketing-related proposals, joint promotions and cobranding etc. with Hashoo Group Hotels, please contact Vice President Events, Marketing & Communications Department NESPAK House, Ground Floor, Ataturk Avenue G-5/2, Islamabad, Pakistan Tel: +92-51-2272890-98 • Fax: +92-51-2274812 Email: tahir.khan@hashoohotels.com EDITORIAL BOARD Andrew Ashmore Tahir Mahmood Khan Arslan Ahmed Editor’s Note E-mail: pchk@pchotels.com Hashoo Hotels’ awards-winning in-house magazine “our Heritage”, enables the readers to learn about our heritage sites, historical values, traditions and cultures, ecology, and the latest trends of Pakistan. This magazine has been instrumental in promoting Pakistan’s positive image at the international level. E-mail: pchl@pchotels.com I am very thankful to my team members, contributors, and the management of Hashoo Hotels for their outright support. E-mail: pchr@pchotels.com The readers’ valuable suggestions have also played a pivotal role in further improving the quality of the magazine. E-mail: pchp@pchotels.com TAHIR MAHMOOD KHAN E-mail: pchb@pchotels.com EDITOR, OUR HERITAGE E-mail: pchm@pchotels.com E-mail: zpchg@pchotels.com ISSUE 26 E-mail: imh@marriottislamabad.com ourHeritage 5 Let’s make a fresh start and set ambitious goals to become the best, truest, happiest and most fulfilled version of ourselves. Mr. Sadaruddin Hashwani Chairman, Hashoo Group 6 ourHeritage ourHeritage 7 By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin In early October 2015, as I traveled from JAMRUD to TURKHAM there were tears in my eyes on seeing the destruction and dilapidation of the railway track which was once the envy of many tourists both foreign and local who used to feel pride in making a journey on KHYBER STEAM SAFARI. This historical, landmark railway track which is an engineering wonder was built on November 3, 1925, was finally closed in 1982 because of poor patronage. A private enterprise by the name of Khyber steam Safari used to run chartered services on this railway track which was visited by diplomats and local tourists but in 2006 the floods washed away the railway tracks since then no effort has been undertaken by the railway authorities to repair and rehabilitate this track. Two steam locomotives were used to pull the train which signified the effort required in hauling this train from Peshawar, up the KHYBER PASS to LANDIKOTAL. I went down the memory lane when somewhere in 1974, I boarded this train at about 8:00 a.m. on a sunny 2 ourHeritage Sunday morning at the Peshawar Cantonment. The Steam locomotive which was pulling the train was no. 2216, which was built in 1916 by KITSON AND COMPANY OF LEEDS, UK. The train slowly gained speed and passed through Peshawar localities of Notia Gate, Swati Gate and Bara Gate. After crossing Bara Gate the train had to slowdown and finally came to a halt as it had to pass through the breath of the 9000 ft long runway of Peshawar International Airport. Pakistani’s must take pride that the Peshawar international airport is the only airport in the world through which a railway line crosses and must find its place in the Guinness book of world records. Why was there a need to build this railway track? It was because of the Great Game in 1857 and there was a fear of the Russian invasion from Khyber or Bolan pass in order to thwart Russian invasion. After crossing the runway the train passed through the areas of University town, Kacha Garhi and Hayatabad. The famous 1756 km long Karachi-Torkham highway (N5) comes in the close vicinity of the rail track and both travel in parallel towards Jamrud the gate way to KHYBER PASS located 18 km west of Peshawar. The journey time to Jamrud was about an hour and after a short stop it continued westward onwards to the Khyber Pass. The trains on this track in the Khyber Pass very seldom run on this section therefore many locals along with children showed up to greet the train and as the train approached the platform local children found excitement in running along with the train. The changing world politics scenario and the third Anglo-Afghan war of May 1919 brought life back to Khyber Pass Railway project. Colonel Gordon Hearn was assigned the work of surveying and recommending the best route through Khyber Pass. Previously all surveys recommended a meter gauge (1000 mm) track however Gordon Hearn proposed and demonstrated by a masterly survey that broad-gauge (1676 mm) line could be laid through the pass. The distances from Peshawar to Landi Khana is about 60 kms and the altitude gain is from 1048 to 2622 feet. Second time the construction restarted in 1920 and the section ourHeritage 3 from Jamrud to Landi Kotal was opened on November 3, 1925. History narrates that the last section of the end spike in to Landikotal was left out purposely as Victor Bayley, the engineer, entrusted with the construction of Khyber Railway, had a 10 year old daughter called ‘Missy Sahib’ who drove it in with 3 hammer blows. Then Bayley and his wife ‘Lady Sahib’ blew the whistle and drove the shunting engine pushing assorted wagons and a brake van into the station. This was a very low-key private affair, not officially sanctioned, and took place even before the extensive 10-track layout at Landi Kotal was put in. The inauguration of the Train though Khyber Pass took place on November 4, 1925, and Mrs. Victor Bayley, wife of the British engineer entrusted with the construction of Khyber Railway drove the first train through Khyber Pass. There are two historical versions why a lady was entrusted to drive the first inaugural train. 1. The first version is that the British government gave the honor to Victor Bayley to run the inaugural train as recognition of his great work but he died three months before the inauguration. His wife then honored the driving of train on her husband’s behalf. 2. The second version is that as the track was being laid, the locals of the Khyber Agency were apprehensive and did not allow the train to move in their territory. However, knowing the Pashtoon mentality and their traditional respect for women, Victory Bayley, asked his wife to drive the first train in the Khyber Agency. It has been reported that she drew long hair so that she could be identified as a women from a distance. The second section of 8km track from Landikotal to Landi Khana was completed on April 3, 1926 another portion of 8 km track was opened up to Landi Khana which is just 3 km short of the actual frontier post of Torkham. The Khyber Pass railway has unique engineering features a ruling gradient of 3 percent between JAMRUD and LANDI KOTAL. 4 ourHeritage There is a rise of nearly 2000 feet in 34 kilometers, and a drop of 872 feet in the next 8 kilometers to Landi Khana, where in many places the gradient stiffens to 1 in 25. There are 4 reversing stations, 34 tunnels with an aggregate length of more than 4 kilometers, 92 bridges and culverts, and 4 locomotive watering stations. And during the construction, three million cubic yards of materials mainly rock, were moved in the cuttings and embankments. Reversing stations are an important feature of Khyber Pass. Since it is not easy to bend a train here due to tight space, trains switch tracks and engines change their roles. The trailing engine becomes the lead and vice versa at the reversing stations. Besides reversing stations, the track at numerous places is also provided with the runway train catch sidings. The Khyber Railways is the last of the great railway constructions undertaken in the frontier during the British Raj. From 1947 onwards, Pakistan Railways continued a weekly passenger service through Khyber Pass. The service ran free of charge simply as a gesture to prove to the fiercely independent tribesmen that the line, in-spite of them, was open and the Pakistan Government was the boss. The regular service in Khyber Pass stopped in 1982 due to the lack of commercial patronage. Due to axle load limitations, diesel engines cannot run on this track. Therefore Khyber Pass railway to date can only be served by steam locomotion only. Landi Kotal station is built in a very unique fortress like architecture. There are no windows or doors on the forbidding facade facing the platform. This was so designed that in case of any attack from across the border this could be defended from the bastions. ourHeritage 5 By: Tahir Imran Khan In modern days, things are quite easy and comfortable even the exploration of an area. You just punch few keys of your pocket tablet and everything would be available through the courtesy of technology. In ancient times, finding a place would have been a lengthy and tedious task as one had to travel in person to get information and knowledge to quench the thirst and inquisitiveness of exploration. When I first visited Kaghan Valley, it was an immediate first sight love. Its scenic splendors included green & fertile slopes of mountains with thick forests below the snow line. The panoramic scenery of vast flower filled pastures, alpine lakes, snowy glacier tails and cascading waterfalls were heart capturing. In addition to its heavenly beauty, River Kunhar, the lifeline of the valley, flows throughout the valley. It proved to be a lovely journey along the river Kunhar, whenever I visited Kaghan valley. Long ago, we were sitting beside self-arranged bonfire, while camping along the river Kunhar, a debate started to travel along the stretch of the river from its source to the 6 ourHeritage end. This debate was somewhere in 80’s when there was no asphalt road beyond the village of Kaghan, while a single coaltar painted strip in run down condition was the only link between Mansehra and Balakot. The winding track on picturesque Batrasi hills with some local old kind of vans and buses was the highway to heaven. Beyond Kaghan village, there was a dusty and rough surfaced track to Naran, which was also the only access to Gilgit and Northern Areas crossing Babusar Pass at 4173meters, only open for a few months of summers as otherwise it remained snow bound. Basheer, one of the most senior & professional guides of the valley told us the possible route to the source of Kunhar from Lake Lulusar, somewhere in upper reaches of the valley. It would be a wonderful trip, if we go to the lake Lulusar and then travel down to its confluence in river Jhelum near Muzaffarabad, Azad Kashmir. The night was cold and the discussion ended with a plan to travel along the river. We slipped into our sleeping bags and that camp night was full of dreams travelling along the River Kunhar. On return, the main task was to make a travel plan with all possible information and arrangements of requisites for the journey. The travel dates were fixed and the team was formed. All group equipment for camping and kitchen was collected while proper clothing for extreme temperatures and quality shoes for hiking were supposed to be arranged individually. With a tentative travel itinerary, we reached Rara near Muzaffarabad, where the Kunhar joins with River Jhelum. It was not sign posted or even not very impressive site however as per our plan, this was the starting point of our journey. We had to trek this first portion for few kilometers and then using transport, our first camp was at Garhi Habibullah. We have been earlier to Garhi as the route from Mansehra to Balakot used to pass through the village of Garhi. The place has also importance as there is a ziarat of Hazrat Syed Ahmed Shaheed. A camp night at Garhi Habibullah was superb and the weather was cool being at the banks of wide and greyish River Kunhar. We crossed the river to reach Balakot, which is the gateway to the main Kaghan valley and an important place but we drove past Balakot for Paras crossing Kawai with its approach route to Shogran, Sari & Paya. Paras, known for its delicious Apples and the route to Sharan, another picturesque plateau, which is less visited thus less polluted. while the road beyond Kaghan is seasonal and not mettaled ( at that time in 1980s ). Shinu with its Trout hatchery is a good attraction while Jared has its fame of wooden handicrafts. Mahandri is a large town where a stream coming down from Manoor while Kaghan, the main town, giving the name to the whole valley is approachable throughout the year, From Balakot to Kaghan, the valley is quite narrow therefore the foaming River Kunhar seems quite furious and alternatively near the road and at times quite down beneath the road. Some major tributaries till Kaghan are Ghanool Nala, Manoor River and Kaghan River while several small streams join from both sides of the river. Kaghan onwards, the valley starts widening and the view broadens. The river beauty is marvelous and with some lovely streams joining the river at various places, we reached Naran from where our main leg of the journey was supposed to commence. Basheer was waiting for us in Naran with all arrangements for next journey on foot. Although there was a jeep road but at the early season time, the road was still snow bound at places and it was also our plan to hike that portion. ourHeritage 7 Carrying our backpacks, the team started walking while the kitchen and camping equipment was dumped over a pony, which was arranged by Basheer sahib, alongwith a kitchen helper. for its fertile land, where there is a Potato Seed Research Program organized by Germans. The area produces high quality potatoes and peas, which are supplied throughout the country. Trekking along River Kunhar was superb as the river is quite wide in this region and flows with calm. We crossed Dhumdhuma, a small dwelling across the river. A little ahead Basheer sahib told that behind the mountain on right bank of the river, there is a lovely valley called as Sapat with possible trekking route to Kohistan. Our next destination was Jalkahad crossing Burwai located at the junction of Joar Nullah and River Kunhar. From Burwai, famous Ratti Gali at 4141meters is connection with Neelum Valley. Jalkhad was a lovely place where our selected camp was just near the river bank. There are Myca mines in the mountains of Jalkhad so some miners also camp there before going to the queries. We reached at Sohni Waterfalls across the forest of Sohni. The walk was not very tough however in an open sunny day, we were sweating badly. I marked the track leading off from main road towards Lalazar, a picturesque meadowland at 3200meters. In almost 5 hours, we reached Batakundi, our stopover for night stay. The camp at Jalkhad was the best so far. The River Kunhar is spread over a vast area and flows in several streams along both sides of the main river. The place is also ideal for fishing as River Kunhar is stocked with delicious brown & rainbow Trout and Mahasher fish. The night at 2780m in tents was quite cold. Batakundi at the confluence of Siran Nullah and Kunhar River is known 8 ourHeritage Besal was our next destination where the panorama around was superb while there was no other person or activity in the region at that time of the season. In those days, only a few nomads use this area for grazing their cattle. A tiring hike finished at a local teashop to serve travelers in summers. Besal is above the tree line and Purbi Nar & Saeedullah Nar, join Kunhar River. Following Purbi Nar, its approach to one of the loveliest lakes of Pakistan, DoodhiPat Sar. Next day, our plan was to make a full day excursion to the Lake Lulusar at 3439m, which was our final destination being the source of the River Kunhar. It was an easy walk for a couple of kilometers to reach crescent shaped vast lake Lulusar, the largest in the valley and from where emerges the River Kunhar. The hills on sides of the lake with greenery and glacial tails were reflecting in deep waters of the lake, offering superb color formations. Lake Lulusar is reputed to have cured a blind daughter of the great Mughal emperor, Akbar and the local people believe that the calm, cool waters of the lake did restore the sight of the princess. At Babusar Pass and about the Kaghan valley stretched in front of her, she writes, Beyond Lulusar Lake, Gitidas and Babusar were the romantic places but our yatra was complete and we had to retrace our footprints to return home. “We suddenly found ourselves on a level plateau, about a quarter of a mile square. Sitting where I had subsided beyond the rocks, ……I slowly assimilated the unlikely fact that we were on Babusar Top....... ....From the plateau I could see, about 1000 feet below me, a vividly green valley some eight miles long and two miles wide, with a foamwhite nullah flashing down its center….” ( Full Tilt - page 199 Drevla Murphy ) The expedition was completed and it proved a wonderful trip for which one of the motivations was the account of travel of Drevla Murphy. Drevla, a young lady cyclist travelled from Gilgit to Kaghan on her bicycle and to the surprise of all, it happened in 1963. She entered Kaghan valley from Gilgit-Chilas, crossing Babusar pass. ourHeritage 9 For the love of the Written Word By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque The year was 2006. The platform was Orkut - a social networking website. Amateur writers and poets in Pakistan started to share and comment on each other’s works. Within a period of months, the number of members grew. Next, twelve most active members felt the time had come to establish a proper writing-and-publishing platform that could help new, young and emerging writers. Thus was born the Desi Writers’ Lounge - a dedicated website with accompanying forums. Desi Writers’ Lounge (DWL) cofounders including Afia Aslam, Tazeen Anjum, Osman Khalid Butt, Jalal Curmally, Bilal Iqbal, Muhammad Imran Khan, Maryam Piracha, Ayesha Sajid, Usman Tanveer Malik and Shehla Wynne believed in an idea and volunteered their money and resources to pull DWL up by its bootstraps and since then they have never looked back. Ten years down the lane, today DWL spans over 700 members on their online Workshop forums and over 15,000 followers on Face book and Twitter. Membership for the online forums is free, but a writing sample is required because the forums are designed only for people who are serious about writing. Dozens of requests pour in each week and now DWL members span continents, and volunteers have helped set up projects and initiatives in cities across the world. Retracing history, in 2007, Papercuts magazine was started as an online platform to publish the work of DWL members. However, this soon outgrew its purpose and in 2011 it was opened up to submissions from across the globe. Today, the DWL team boasts 14 issues published online, two print ones and a third edition is on its way. (From L to R) DWL co-founders Osman Khalid Butt, Shehla Wynne and Afia Aslam 10 ourHeritage Cover art for Papercuts Vol 11 online edition The past four years have seen Papercuts putting forward the works of over 110 new writers and poets. DWL online forums offer writers and poets access to critiques from their fellow members, guidance on how to get published in international literary magazines and journals, and advice for people trying to publish novels and poetry collections. “All the DWL and Papercuts staff members are unpaid volunteers and they work part-time or afterhours for DWL remotely from different cities, managing DWL/Papercuts work with their full-time day jobs. Thus, many of our ideas are restricted by the kind of budget we can pull together to finance the execution of the ideas,” says Waqas Naeem, Director, Desi Writers’ Lounge. In 2012, a small short story contest was started. Today this has become a worldwide contest that receives hundreds of entries each year from all parts of the globe that and gives away cash prizes amounting to $800 in addition to the book prizes. The year 2013 changed the character of the contest dramatically. “One of the major transformative forces was the introduction of a new cash incentive for one winner of the contest. The cash prize called the Rs. 50,000 Dastaan Award is sponsored by co-founder Afia Aslam and her husband Azfar Ali. Somehow, the contest announcement got shared far and wide on the web that year and we received hundreds of entries. The Papercuts editors helped with the reading and short listing, and we ended up selecting winning stories that we are proud of till this day. That was a breakthrough moment for us. We knew we had to keep going and ever since, the annual short story contest has only grown in its scope and extent. One indication of the growth of the contest is its international complexion. Where initially the most entries received were by Pakistani and South Asian writers, Now we receive entries from North America, Europe, Africa and Australia apart from our home continent. There’s a whole new level of competition that has been introduced by the participation of international writers. It’s great for Pakistani writers to be able to test their mettle against authors from around the world. We see a lot of Indian writers participating in global and regional contests but we’re hoping that through the awareness and competition brought by the DWL short story contest, Pakistani English fiction writers will also begin to look outwards to the world. Another indicator of the growth of the contest is the diversity in themes and genres addressed by the finalist stories. This year, we had a couple of speculative fiction pieces in the final round, which also means that we have expanded our reach to genre fiction. It’s really encouraging for us to be not limited to literary or realist fiction only,” says a proud Naeem. DWL has also ventured into several offline activities. “We have offered a few writing and poetry workshops in Pakistan. Additionally, monthly book clubs are run in several Pakistani cities and cities abroad by DWL volunteers. We also routinely organise talks, book launches and reading sessions in Karachi where we have a large DWL member contingent,” elaborates Naeem. The writing workshops began with some internal writing courses on the DWL Workshop forums in 2013. In 2014, the team moved to offering offline workshops, as well. So far, there have been two fiction writing workshops and two online poetry courses and one offline poetry workshop in Lahore. Author Bilal Tanweer chats with DWL volunteer-member Nadir Hashmi at the DWL stall at Karachi Literature Festival 2014 ourHeritage 11 The Reader’s Club is another favourite spot on the DWL agenda. “While our members are writers or want to become better writers, we also have one other thing in common: our love for reading. The Readers’ Club initiative began in Karachi in 2013 as a simple meeting of some of the DWL members to discuss books. So with the meeting in Karachi in 2013, we got the idea to keep doing these book discussion meetings on a regular basis, and this gave us the momentum to develop a project on the format of a regular book club. Usually, DWL members volunteer for the manager position of a Readers’ Club and then they organise an icebreaker meeting in their city. We try and populate a mailing list of people who have expressed a desire to join the Readers’ Club through email or our Face book page. Then, the manager emails them about the book to be read and details of the next meeting. The books are usually decided by consensus during the monthly meetings and each meeting usually begins with a discussion of the book that had been read during the previous month,” explains Naeem. A view of The Rising Dust workshop session. (L to R) participant Bilal Shadani, participant Rabia Ahmed, instructor Usman T Malik, participant Nihal Ijaz Khan and participant Ailya Waqar So the Readers’ Clubs are basically volunteer-run book clubs. These are managed by DWL volunteers in various cities with some support by DWL. We basically help the volunteers with setting up email accounts on our website and promoting the meetings on our Face book page. But other than that, the Readers’ Clubs are mostly autonomous and each club has a slightly different format agreed upon by its members. There are some shared traits, for example the club is open for public and meets every month. Interestingly, We currently have active clubs in Islamabad, Lahore, Karachi, Mumbai and London, and we’re hoping to revive our book club in San Francisco and start a new one in Dubai. 12 ourHeritage “the online DWL Workshop forums facilitate a conversation that benefits the member writers in terms of technical aspects. Once writers feel confident about their writing, we encourage them to submit their work to international and local magazines and their manuscripts to publishers,” awarded the Bram Stoker Award for short fiction, becoming the first Pakistani to win the prestigious award whose recipients have included Stephen King and Joyce Carol Oates. Former Papercuts poetry and associate editor, Noorulain Noor has been published in several poetry journals. In 2014, she was nominated for the Pushcart Prize, perhaps the most prestigious small press award in the US. The Desi Writers’ Lounge is now quite visible at literary festivals setting up booths as well as participating on panel discussions. The Liberty Books store in Karachi opened its doors to DWL’s Karachi Readers’ Club providing a permanent home for the monthly book club meetings. Simultaneously, the literary community abroad has been equally welcomed. The DSC Prize for South Asian Literature regularly invites the London representative to their award announcements and events. In short, the Desi Writers’ Lounge is a platform that works for the love of the written word and thus for each one involved their love knows no bounds. adds Naeem. A successful story is that of Usman T. Malik. One of the DWL co-founders has published a novel, a novella and many short stories. He was recently A view of the Karachi Readers’ Club meeting at Liberty Books. ourHeritage 13 Glory of Swat Discover the Past By: Aftab Rana Swat without doubt, is one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in the northern Pakistan. Swat has a rich historical past. It was described as “Udyana” (the garden) in ancient Hindu epics and somewhere in 327 BC, Alexander the Great fought and won some of his major battles before crossing over to the plains of the five rivers. The famous Gandhara Buddhist Civilization later flourished in this valley. Barikot is an important historical town on the main road to Mingora. The area around Barikot is full of rich and amazing archaeological sites in an environment which is still intact. It is one of the four places in this area were Alexander the Great fought crucial battles. Recently, I had chance to take an exploratory trip to lower Swat and I was amazed to see the great potential this area offers for archaeological tourism. Here I share with you details of some of the very impressive but less known sites of Barikot area. Mingora. There is also a very nice view point on the hill top behind this archaeological site from where one can have a panoramic view of ancient city of Bazira and Valley of Swat River on the other side. Bazira Amluk Dara is another great archaeological site of this area. This Gandhara civilization archaeological site was uncovered jointly by Italian Archaeological Mission in Pakistan and Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa’s Directorate of Archaeology and Museums. Sheltered by the great Mount Ilam, the Amluk Dara stupa is an ancient relic situated about 2 km on the north of Nawagai village in the beautiful small valley of Amluk Dara, the main road which travels from Barikot to Buner. The stupa stands with ancient majesty and can be seen from the surrounding mountains. Excavators working on the site that dates back to the third The main archaeological site at Barikot was identified as the ancient city of Bazira, conquered by Alexander the Great in 327 B.C. Excavations carried out by Italian Archaeological Mission in collaboration with the Department of Archaeology and Museums, Government of Pakistan have brought to light evidence spanning from the 2nd millennium B.C. to the early Muslim period. A beautifully restored portion of the Indo-Greek defensive wall and bastions are visible from the road on the left side while traveling towards Bazira 14 ourHeritage Amluk Dara Stupa Amluk Dara century recently discovered an entire complex surrounding the main stupa which was first discovered by the Hungarian-British archaeologist Sir Aurel Stein in 1926. It was later studied by Domenico Faccena in the 60s and 70s. Dr Luca Maria Olivieri who is the director of the Italian Archaeological Mission in Pakistan is working on the restoration of this site. He informed that Sir Aurel Stein in 1926 reported the ruins and wrote that the main stupa was possibly one of the best preserved pieces of Buddhist architecture he had ever seen in Gandhara. The main stupa with its in the architecture of Gandhara exhibiting a double cupola is a great site for visitors. This site was in danger of collapsing. A Pak-Italian team, besides offering guidelines for preliminary restoration to the Pakistan Army in 2011 has secured the area and conducted a partial digging. The research work has revealed that the sanctuary was erected no later than the 2nd century A.D. and that the holiest part, dominated by three surrounding large shrines, remained in use until relatively late times. Gumbat Stupa sacred area was founded around the third century and lasted until 10th or 11th century. Amluk Dara is also very significant as it lies on the route followed by the Hindus of lower Swat on their annual visit to the sacred height of Mount Ilam. The top of the mountain was an object of pious pilgrimage already in Buddhist times. Gumbat Another important and unique archaeological site located in this area is Gumbat. The great sanctuary of Gumbat, the only monument The Rock Art Sites In the mountains area south of Barikot, the archaeologists have documented 52 painted shelters in the mountains area of Kahai Kandao, Sarghah Sar and Talang. Among these painted shelters, two sites, Sarghah Sar and Kakai Kandao are dated to Bronze Age (1400 BC). Particularly the rock shelter of Sarghah Sar is very impressive, which resembles a human face. The paintings are located at the base of a huge rock slab in a natural opening (that appears as the “mouth”), while two natural cavities create the illusion of two enormous eyes. The paintings represent an agricultural cycle: dotted grids symbolize ploughed and sowed fields. The anthropomorphic inserted in the central grid might represent Ksetrapati, the Ragvedic “Lord of the Field”. A hero with solar shield faces a leopard and an ibex depicts ritual slaughtering. In fact the entire lower Swat Valley is rich in old relics. Every town and village has a wealth of old remains in one form or the other. Many villages are historically very significant because of their names in ancient languages. Udegram, Shingardar Stupa, Nimogram Stupa, Kamal China, Abbashib China, Thokar Dara Stupa, Gogdara, Gheghai, Jahanabad Buddha and Batkara Stupa are some of the other significant archaeological sites of lower Swat Valley. The rock painting of Sargah-sar ACT- Field School Project of Italian Archaeological Mission in Pakistan and Sustainable Tourism Foundation Pakistan (STFP) are working together to promote sustainable and eco-friendly community based archaeological tourism in this area of Swat Valley. They have helped local community to form Swat Archaeological Guides Association (SAGA) and building their capacity to conduct group tour programs. They have also developed different package tours for domestic as well as foreign tourists to provide guided tours led by trained local community tour guides. ourHeritage 15 The week end was festive and colourful to say the least; the festivity because of the commemoration of one who is without doubt the most popular poet of the century and colourful because of the devotees who came from far and near to contribute their own sort of festivity through dialogue and conversations. And so it was a fete all over from the inaugural by the Punjab governor to the dance of the little ones from Lahore Grammar School. There were visiting subject specialists from all over the world, guests from Canada to Bangkok to UK, Faiz appreciators from all over Pakistan thronging the halls , the Adbi Baithaks and the lawns and bye-lanes of the Alhamra complex and the open air shows at Burney Gardens. By: Nyla Daud 16 ourHeritage Moneeza Hashmi Said Faiz’ daughter and member of the management committee “They all, the intellectual stars and the crowds came for the love of Faiz. Nobody asked for reimbursements out of respect to the poet and because they knew this was not a fund raiser but a commemorative. Besides ticketing some sessions which was a must to pay for the infrastructural costs, every single event was a complimentary performance by the invitees. Tina Sani, Naseeruddin Shah, Zehra Nigah, Muzzafer Ali of the Umrao Jan Ada fame, Tariq Ali to name just a sprinkling of the guest luminaries, everybody came of their own volition. The moment we said it was a commemorative festival for Faiz the invitees agreed without another thought.” If you count the inaugural … formally opened by Faiz Foundation Trust chairperson daughter Saleema Hashmi…which was almost three hours of a dignified tribute to the poet , the first International Faiz Festival added up to four action packed days around the Alhamra Art Center and its lawns. The management committee, spoiling visitors for choice, put up as many as ten to fifteen intellectually stimulating sessions each day in the following three days . Running back to back, the events covered any and every aspect of the poet’s life through lectures, analytical dialogues, stage and dance performances and live song sessions. A major entertainment and breakthrough was the Saleema Hashmi curated exhibition of visual arts, entitled ‘Kuch Ishq kiya , Kuch Kaam Kiya’ featuring the Faiz photographs never exhibited before. Put up on flex, meaning that it can now be carried to anywhere else in the world, the show ran through the three days drawing scores of visitors. Tough decisions however had to be made for the other sessions because there were always two equally interesting programs running neck to neck. So while on a day Hall three had Yasmeen Hameed hosting Shamsur Rehman Farooqui followed by sessions on the glorious chapter of women’s struggle, the Intezar Hussein Asghar Nadeem syed combine , the Faiz granddaughter Mira Hashmi moderated one on R D Burman and Najam Hussain ourHeritage 17 Syed’s Punjabi play and a Mushaira dedicated to Faiz , there were simultaneously timed discussions in the Adabi Baithaks. At the same times the Alhambra gallery was hosting relevant commemorative workshops. Meanwhile at the neighbouring hotels the first day had grandchildren Adeel Hashmi and Mira moderating two enjoyable sessions with Asad Anees and Tahira Syed and ARshad Meh. The following two days saw four performances of Einstein by Naseeruddin Shah. Extraordinary solo performances, audiences were made to laugh and think seriously about the renowned scientist, his achievements and tribulations. to the delight of all present Shah interacted with the audience while making them understand gravity and the moving of planets around the sun. A charged political session The politics of Pakistan , Past Present and Future had politicians from every political party on the stage; an amazing fete in itself. “We included politics because Faiz was very political ,” admitted Moneeza. “The same for theatre ,film, dance and literature and women. We put in memory sessions with Zehra Nigah, Tahira Syed ,Farooq Qaiser of Sargam fame which were crowd pullers since they were presented by people who knew 18 ourHeritage him really well. “ With every session catering to the people’s perception of the poet there were book launches and symposia on the art of novel writing, moderated dialogues with Dr. Arfa Syeda and Yasmeen Hameed and the much accoladed conversation, the Making of Manto. Although an advisory committee of people like I A Rehman was in place each member of the Faiz family took on one thing. “Salima oversaw the art exhibition, Ali looked after the literature part, Adeel did the entertainment, Mira moderated sessions and I had my responsibilities. But we are all specially thankful to Sara Qureshi who is the program director at the Faiz foundation. We are very grateful to our Indian participants who braved the usual visa problems but still were in excellent spirits.” The build up to the First International Faiz Festival has an interesting history starting with a Faiz Memorial lecture each year after the poets death. During the martial law of Zia in eighty six, singer Iqbal Bano braved the censors to give a sterling performance of Hum Dekhain Gay, setting the tune for more to come . The Faiz festival became more awami another year when it was taken to the Open Air theatre in Bagh-i- Jinnah and where Alam Lohar was launched. An international mushaira came next year with Nusrat Fateh Ali giving a qawwali performance during the year of the gulf war. The festival moved to Kala, Kadir in district Narowal, Faiz’ birth place making it possible for the villagers to participate . PTV took on the infrastructure and made it into a yearly entertainment bringing in artists from Lahore and then broadcast it. The next two years Sialkot became the venue when a garden was named after the poet. Another year the railway stadium drew an even larger crowd when Abida Parveen came in. The next few years were without any do because of the deteriorating security situation. However five years ago there was revival with the reregistration of the Faiz foundation trust with the Punjab government. Faiz Ghar in Model town now began to reverberate with cultural activity “For this festival we went through countless brain storming sessions with the advisory committee. The content was considered and sessions suiting every taste and age group were put together. and Tina Sani came to sing Faiz the next year. The musicals became a yearly event interspersed by Daastan Goee and seminars. Then came the centennial year 2010 when Faiz Foundation and the Festival started getting recognition as a brand. Members of the family travelled all over the world bringing in financial aid by devotees and which ultimately contributed to the First International Faiz Festival this year. And next year? “While this year Canada, Uk, the USA, India and Dubai were conspicuous presences next year we intend to make it more international , going to Cuba, Chile and Russia in fact every country where Faiz has a following.” We had to make sure that the legacy and ideology of Faiz was not tampered with.” ourHeritage 19 Birds of Sialkot Book Review By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque Text by: Mustansar Hussain Tarar Photographs by: Kamran Saleem Printed by: Topical Printers And one must add that these are no simple images. Beautifully detailed, set against immaculate backdrops with the perfect placement of the object in sight, each one of the images spread over the hundred and forty pages do justice to the fine art of photography. It is no doubt a labour of love that Kamran Saleem has undertaken and when Mustansar Hussain Tarar says that the book is “an amazing masterpiece collection of photographs”, he is clearly giving the publication the praise it truly deserves. Tarar who has also written the foreword to this epic journey of Sialkot’s bird life is a For creative souls, nature has been a source of attraction for times immemorial. It has been written about in detail, captured in art as well as personified in literature. Birds of Sialkot is a new venture of a creative soul who has captured the beauty of nature in photographs. renowned literary figure in his own right. The foreword itself has been written in a very poetic manner and thus sets the scene for the entire visual journey that the photographer treats his audience to. Birds of Sialkot is not only a beautiful book that can rest on your coffee table but a visual treat for those who understand the enjoyment one gathers through looking at nature. Right in the beginning Tarar calls Kamran Saleem the King of the Birds and rightly so because each bird captured through Saleem’s lens 20 ourHeritage seems to be poised for the king to photograph. One of the most interesting vibes one gets while flipping through every single page of the book is that the bird is lost in nature itself and is waiting to be photographed by a master artist that is Saleem. May it be the photograph of a black stork perched on the tip of a twig, two green-bee-eaters joining beaks against the bright green branches of a tree or a osprey sitting in silence contemplating on its own, all show a perfection Saleem has strived for and achieved. The perfection the publication embodies reflects the patience of an artist who must have waited for hours if not days to find the right moment. Each photograph shows that the photographer must have waited patiently for the bird to settle, change its mood and then clicked at his camera. Additionally intermingling of the use of black and white photographs and coloured ones spark a sort of creativity that knows no bounds. In one photograph, a pheasant-tailed Jacana is photographed while on the next a bar-headed goose strides on a bed of flowers. All the birds featured in the book are those species who have been visiting the area since ages but interestingly it is only Saleem’s power of listening to the stories of their lives that helps captures these of beauties in nature at a given moment in time. It has took Kamran Saleem to dedicate four Birds of Sialkot is a mush read, must keep book for anyone who values the bounties of nature for the publication brings forth a celebration like none before. It is an inspiring collection of birds years to publish this book and each The text accompanying the photographs is at par with where each bird pictured is either moment seems the images. Sometimes a quote from the Holy Quran flying, nesting worth the effort and time spent. For the explains the beauty, at others a simile is enough; at or resting. The Punjabi purpose Saleem places Chinese proverbs break the silence and at awesome landscape coupled has endured picking other places Biblical quotes elaborate the creative with a few black and up his photography publication. Simple descriptions capturing the essence white backdrops gear, setting up on a ride on his of the image or describing the flight of the birds add of these flying bike to photograph the much needed flavour to the book, making it whole. creatures has been superbly captured the birds in their and is quite dream natural habitat and like. waiting for hours to capture the magical moment. ourHeritage 21 Paisley Text by: Khuzaima Fatima Haque So, from where did the paisley in the Pashmina actually come from? Any guesses? None! Well let me tell you the tale of the woven fabric and the song of the design that sings with it to this day. Come winters and women all over the world take out their shawls to keep them warm. The fashion conscious add colour to their wardrobes and so do the ladies who wish to add a class to their couture. The song of the paisley is an old one. Sung by numerous weavers and now the automatic weaving machines, the paisley is essentially the motif which gives a Pashmina the recognition it deserves. Interestingly, the story that goes with it is one that will keep you warm throughout the winter season. The symbol of the paisley sprang up ages ago. As history recalls, this came up in the area that lies between present-day Iran and the Kashmiri region straddling the Indian-Pakistani border. Earlier on, it was called buta, meaning flower. Kashmir was the epicentre for this creative craft that to this day remains the envy of the Englishmen or rather the Englishwomen. And this envy is not 22 ourHeritage a new one. Englishwomen as far as in the times of Napoleon had begun the rat race to procure this golden gem of the East for their wardrobes. They would actually compete with each other to get hold of the most intricate of paisley designed Pashminas and wear them to the parties over their ball dresses. However, Zain-ul-Abidin, who ruled Kashmir from 1459 to 1470 is listed as the first professional promoter of these shawls thus the design. Weavers from Persia and Central Asia were encouraged and even moved to his kingdom to weave the best of the best. Later on Emperor Akbar (reigned 1556–1605) made the shawls central to the Kashmiri practice of khil’at, “robes of honour” ceremonially exchanged in political and religious contexts to establish a clear pecking order. The historical significance of the shawls can be judged by the fact that these were actually given as robes of honour and were decorated with all sorts of patterns. More significantly, the paisley motif came to be the centre piece to catch everyone’s eyes because it probably resembled jigha, a crown insignia jewel used to pin a feather to a courtier’s turban. shawls, each with a different colour and setting made her to yearn for more. By the 1800s the European elite desire for the paisley to such an extent that there was no stopping the craze that had set in the women’s parties and their societies. The race was now on. Manufactures found it a lucrative business. However, the demand was too great to be fed by the local businessmen and textile owners. The paisley still stood up as the most used and prominent design on the Pashmina shawls. At this time even the Norwich, England, and Edinburgh, Scotland factories began making their own shawls. These imitations were not that great. Today the paisley is still the most popular motif on the shawl. The paisley started infiltrating Europe in the late 18th century, when Kashmiri princes began including British East India Company’s officers in their ritual shawl-giving. These shawls were then sent back by the officers back to the women waiting there. There they wished for more o these intricate beauties. As history recalls, Napoleon’s wife Joséphine was one of the first ladies to have piling up these beautiful paisley Pashmina shawls from Pakistan are one of most sought after pieces of art by the international market. From hand woven motifs to multi-coloured designs set in thread and tilla, to even hand-painted ones to machine embroidered paisleys, this is still a favourite among the weavers and the buyers. From the north of Pakistan to the plains of the Punjab, from the dessert in Sind to the barren lands of the Baluchistan, women adorn their clothes with paisley work. These motifs are embroidered by women in the hutments to the houses in the cities. To this day, the paisley stands as the identity of the Pakistani woman. ourHeritage 23 flowers of Pakistan regional From expansive plains to glacier clad peaks, Pakistan holds such a geographical position that it boasts remarkable biodiversity, with variations in precipitation, elevation and temperature, many species of flora adorn the impressive landscape. By Maria.S Roses of Punjab There are over 100 species of roses, it is a woody perennial of the genus Rosa, they spread as trailing stems, armed with thorns and may grow as shrubs. Naturally occurring colors range from whites, yellows, pinks and reds. The flowers come in varying sizes and appear quiet extravagant. Many species are native to Asia but some species have made their way across Europe, North America and some parts of Africa. Ornamental roses are bred for their fragrant scent and elegant foliage. They have been cultivated for centuries; evidence suggests that the practice prevailed since 500 BC in Persia, China and countries in the Mediterranean. Many products are yielded from this symbolic flower. Rose oil is used in perfumes, also known as attar. Rose hips are a good source of vitamin C and are incorporated in supplements, herbal teas. They are also made into Jams and soups, whereas rose hip seed oil has found its use in cosmetics.Rose petals are also brewed to make herbal teas. Concentrated rose squashes and rose flavored kulfis are popular across the subcontinent and rose syrup is used throughout Europe in many confectionaries. Rose water is used in many Middle Eastern sweet dishes such as baklava. The subtle ingredient adds a distinctive flavor and fragrance. 24 ourHeritage Daturas of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Datura, popularly known as Angel’s trumpets, is a poisonous vespertine flowering plant. They are sometimes called moonflowers as well; they grow throughout the tropical and temperate regions of the planet and belong to the Solanaceae family. The highest species diversity occurs in Tunisia, Africa. In Pakistan, the flower is found abundantly in the KPK province and is cultivated largely in Abbottabad and Swat. All species of Datura are poisonous, especially their seeds and flowers. There have been cases throughout history of its use causing deliria and ultimately death. Datura starmonium has several medicinal uses, its leaves are used to treat boils, sores and parkinsonism. It’s juice is used as a treatment for dandruff and hair loss and according to some reports it is also used in the treatment of arthritis, sprains, asthma, bronchitis, hemorrhoids and tumors. Alpine Columbines of Gilgit-Baltistan The Columbine or Granny’s Bonnet is the popular name that encompasses approximately 70 species of perennial plants. Its genus name, Aquilegia is a derivative of a Latin word that translates to “eagle”, so called due to the flower’s resemblance to an eagle’s claw. The flowers grow at higher altitudes and are found throughout the northern hemisphere across woodlands and meadows. The plant’s seed and roots contain cardiogenic toxins and are poisonous, but the flowers of some of the species of columbine are reported to be very sweet and safe to consume in small amounts. The Native Americans used them as condiments; they also used small amounts of its root for ulcer treatment. Improper use of the plant can prove fatal and it must be used with extreme caution. Rhododendrons of Azad Jammu and Kashmir The Common Rhododendron or Pontic Rhododendron is native to South West Asia and Southern Europe. It is the state flower of Azad Jammu and Kashmir and is found across Northern Pakistan and in the Himalayas. The flower is spread throughout Asia and in Europe it thrives in Spain, northern Portugal and southeast Bulgaria. They were first grown in Britain in the 18th century, their popularity grew due to expansion of the commercial nursery trade and thus the flowers became so widely distributed by the 19th century. ourHeritage 25 Russian sages of Balochistan Russian sage is a subshrub and a flowering perennial plant. Though it is closely related to Salvia, it is not a member of this genus as its name “sage” suggests. The flowering season lasts from mid-summer to late October, the leaves have a greygreen hue and the petals have vibrant shades of violet and blue. It grows upright and can reach heights of up to 4 ft. its appearance is much like a grander version of lavender. These flowers are native to the hills and grasslands of Southwestern and Central Asia; they grow at high altitudes in the Himalayas and in the Karakoram at elevations of up to 10,000 ft. In Pakistan they are found mainly in Quetta district. Due to its high tolerance to rash environments and compatibility with various soils and climate range it was successfully introduced to different parts of the world through cultivation and underwent rapid growth. The leaf shape and height vary across regions, but the ‘blue spire’, which is the most common, is used in landscaping due to their appeal. In traditional medicine it has been used by the locals as treatment for an array of ailments such as dysentery. It is used as an anti-parasitic, antipyretic and analgesic. A decoction of the plant’s flowers and leaves is used as anti-diabetic medicine. The flowers are safe to eat and are incorporated it in salads. Blue dye can also be made from them Jasmines of Sindh Jasmine is classified in the olive family and is renowned not only for its delicate starry appearance but also its impeccable fragrance, there are up to 200 species of the flower, most of this diversity is concentrated in South and Southeast Asia, through cultivation the plant was introduced to France, Britain, Italy and the Mediterranean and soon spread across the world. Jasmine holds much cultural and symbolic significance. It is the National flower of Pakistan, locally known as chambeli, it is associated with modesty and amiability and is fairly common, found in gardens throughout the country. Women use it as an accessory for special occasions such as weddings. Indonesia and the Philippines adopted Jasmine as their national flower and it is regarded as an important part of weddings along with other cultural and religious ceremonies. Hindus use the flowers in numerous worship rituals and as garlands for their deities. It is the symbolic flower of Damascus, Syria and in Thailand the flower represents motherhood. Jasmine tea popular throughout the world was first consumed in China, where it is called jasmine flower tea. In Okinawa Japan the tea is called sanpin cha. 26 ourHeritage ourHeritage 27 28 ourHeritage A limited amount of a bar of chocolate (doctors normally recommend 7 ounces a week) is a health giving bite. Dark chocolate helps lower blood pressure, improves blood flow and may prevent blood clot and reduce the risk of stroke, thus good for the heart. It improves brain function contains with content called phenyl-ethylamine (PEA), the same chemical your brain creates when you feel like you’re falling in love. It contains antioxidants that help free the body of free-radicals, control blood sugar, hardens tooth enamel and helps your skin against the harmful rays of the sun. Taking a journey down the memory lane, while a taste of chocolate existed in its raw form of cacao since 1500 BC; the Olmec Indians are believed to be the first to grow cocoa beans as a domestic crop. It was not until the 14c AD when a ‘drink’ became popular among the Aztec upper classes that commandeered the cocoa beverage from the Mayans and were the first to tax the beans. The Aztecs called it xocalatl – a derivative of the modern word for chocolate, meaning warm or bitter liquid. The Spaniards learned chocolate from the Aztecs at the time of the Spanish invasion in 1519. Spanish explorers learned to convert the bitter cocoa into a beverage and its origin and preparation method was a secret for 100 years. The ancient Aztecs and Mayan cultures discovered the value of the cocoa plant. They believed that power and wisdom came from eating the fruit of the cacao tree. In the sixteenth and seventeenth century, chocolate was very much a successor in Europe and produced in Switzerland. By the half of the nineteenth century Swiss chocolate started to spread aboard. The Swiss first started making chocolate in the 1800’s, at the time there was no abundant commodities of chocolate and sugar. In 1876, M. Daniel Peter added milk to chocolate to produce a smoother chocolate. However, adding water to chocolate made the chocolate shrink and separate into small pieces. The experimentation took 8 years to perfect before he took his product to Henry Nestle the maker of evaporated milk. Nestle had perfected the manufacture of condensed milk, he and Peter hit upon the idea of mixing sweetened condensed milk with chocolate. In the second half of the eighteenth century, natives of Yal Blenio in the Tessin were responsible for the popularity of chocolate in their country. However, just a few decades later the Swiss made a successful reputation and foreign manufactures spread throughout the world using their technical geniuses effort to efficient the development for the manufacture of chocolate By mid 1500’s, jars of cocoa powder ready to drink reached as precious gifts to the bigwig of Spain and Portugal and it didn’t reached on the soil of Europe until the mid 1600s, then chocolate was considered a beverage for the elite class. By the mid 19c AD, Swiss chocolate started to spread aboard. The Swiss first started making chocolate in the 1800’s, then there was no plentiful commodities of chocolate and sugar. Innovation by confectioner and creative patisserie chefs has created a variety forms of chocolate delights for chocolate lovers including the traditional chocolate bars, chocolate drinks, chocolate desserts like chocolate fondant, mousse and tiramisu and the traditional Swiss Chocolate Fondue, chocolate fountain ourHeritage 29 Homemade chocolates of Switzerland have a taste from heaven. The amazing variety of tongue teasing taste at homemade chocolate shops vary to offer a great variety of praline, truffles, luxemburgerli and also gourmet chocolates – easy to become addicted to chocolate. Each piece is an indulgence into a taste of ultimate pleasure. Freshly prepared with highest quality ingredients and pure Swiss chocolate, these need to be consumed soon after picking up from the particular confectionery shop and thus cannot be found in stores for you bringing back home to relish over a longer period of time. Each canton across the length and breadth of the country has its own favorite ship. While Zurich has to offer the very best homemade chocolates at the Spruengli Confectionaries; recipient of Swiss Bakery Trophy: Fuchs Bakery owned by a local family, has its own traditional recipe - the handmade Matterhornli chocolates, made with a mixture of “quality, tradition and passion” - says the makers. Geneva – the French speaking metropolitan lake city has Favarger Chocolats Et Cacaos (Geneve) that boasts an anthology of recipes since about 200 years of original recipes. “The quality and the perfect blend of ingredients that constitute the recipe and also the mastery of all the production processes required to execute it guarantee consistency of flavor and of the Favarger quality in its Avelines, Tablettes, Nougalines and Fondues”. The Swiss Chocolate Chalet chocolate shop, located along the center of Interlaken has best quality homemade Swiss Chocolate. In a presentable wooden box, these homemade chocolates offers a high quality variety taste of a rich recipe ranging from fruit filled truffles to dark chocolates with hazelnuts. 30 ourHeritage St. Moritz has its favorite shop at the Hanselmann Confectionery. As pleasant to the eyes the green valleys of St.Moritz, Hanselmann is a sweet treat to Sense of Taste - an institution with more than 115 years of traditional chocolate making. The Valentine’s Day on 14 February says the cupid, is a perfect chemistry to a choctified romance. Couples who wed around the 14 February and choose to spend their honeymoon some place in Switzerland – the Chocolate Capital, they are in for a great treat – a haven for chocolate lovers! ourHeritage 31 Hari Singh Nalwa By: Dr. Shaukat Mahmood It is learnt that ‘Billionaires Australia’ compiled a list of Top Ten Conquerors of the human History that was published from Melbourne, Australia on August 23, 2014. According to this publication Sikh warrior Hari Singh Nalwa topped the list as one of the most outstanding conquerors of the world followed by Changez Khan and Alexander as second and third in ranking. Hari Singh Nalwa was born in 1791(exact date is not known) in Gujranwala, Punjab to Gurdial Singh and Dharam Kaur, who were Mazhabi Sikh by caste. Hari Singh’s ancestors came from Majitha and served the Sukerchakia Misl. His grandfather, Hardas Singh, was killed in action in 1762. His father, Gurdial Singh, served under Charat Singh and Maha Singh and received the Jagir of Balloki, a village in the modern day Kasur District. After his father died in 1798, he was raised by his mother Hari Singh was hardly seven years of age when his father died. His mother, Dharam Kaur, had to move to her parental home to live under the care of her brothers. There Hari Singh learned Punjabi and Persian and trained in the manly arts of riding, musketry and swordsmanship. In 1801, at the age of ten, he took Amrit Sanchar and was baptised as a Sikh. At the age 32 ourHeritage of twelve, he began to manage his father’s estate and took up horse riding. Dharam Kaur returned to Gujranwala when her son was about 13 years old. “Nalwa” (one with claws, like that of a tiger). Another historical text describes his incident with the tiger differently, telling us that he was already a Sardar when the word In 1804, Hari Singh participated in a recruitment test for service in the Sikh army and so impressed Maharaja Ranjit Singh with his skill at various drills that he was given an appointment as a personal attendant. Not long after, in 1805, he received the commission with a command of 800 horses and foot and was given the title of ‘Sardar’ (Chief). “Nalwa” was added to his name after he”had killed a tiger single-handed on horseback, with the sacrifice, however, of his horse.” A historical text tells us that his rapid promotion from a personal attendant of the Maharaja to a command of 800 horsemen was owed to an incident in which he had cloven with sword the head of a tiger which had seized him. From that day he came to be known as “Baaghmaar” (meaning - the tiger killer), and earned the title of In history we have only one another such case when a person had killed a lion single-handed, and that was Ali Quli Khan, the first husband of Nurjahan, later Queen of India and wife of Emperor Jahangir; He was given the title of Sher-afgan (the lion-queller) by Emperor Akbar. Hari Singh went on to participate in many glorious victories of the Sikhs before becoming the Commanderin-Chief of the army along the North Western Frontier of the Sikh Kingdom. He was appointed Governor of various provinces and was one of the wealthiest jagirdars of the Kingdom. Hari Singh Nalwa was born into a Uppal Khatri (warrior caste) Sikh of the Sukerchakia Misl. The family originally came from Majitha, near Amritsar. His grandfather, Hardas Singh, had been killed fighting against Ahmad Shah Durrani in 1762. His father, Gurdial Singh, had taken part in many of the campaigns of the Sukkarchakkias Charat Singh Sukkarchakia and Mahari Singh. Hari Singh Nalwa was the Commander-in-chief at the most turbulent North West Frontier of Ranjit Singh’s kingdom. He took the frontier of the Sarkar Khalsaji to the very mouth of the Khyber Pass. For the past eight centuries, marauders, who had indulged in looting, plunder and rape had used this route into the subcontinent. In his lifetime, Hari Singh became a terror to the ferocious tribes inhabiting these regions. He successfully thwarted the last foreign invasion into the subcontinent through the Khyber Pass at Jamrud, permanently blocking this route of the invaders. Even in his death, Hari Singh Nalwa’s formidable reputation ensured victory for the Sikhs against the Afghan force as many as five times. Hari Singh Nalwa’s performance as an administrator and a military commander in the North West Frontier (present day KPK) remains unmatched. Two centuries on, Britain, Pakistan, Russia and America have been unsuccessful in effecting law and order in this region. Very few people know that the city of Haripur Hazarar was founded by Hari Singh Nalwa in 1822 and it became the headquarters of Hazara until 1853. Hari Singh Nalwa was appointed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh as the second Nazim of Hazara after the first Nazim Amar Singh Majithia was killed by the local populace at Nara. The town was surrounded by a wall which was four yards thick and sixteen yards high and had four gates. Drinking water was dug to carry water into the streets of the town. Baron Hugal visited the town on December 23, 1835 and he found the town humming with activity. Haripur was built as a fortress surrounded by a wall which was 3.7 m thick and 15 m high and had only four openings. That fortress later became the city police station and also housed local government offices. was conquered and annexed by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820. Its first Nazim under Ranjit Singh was Amar Singh Majithia who ruled over the territory for two years. He was successful in suppressing the rebellion of Muhammad Khan Tarin and was able to defeat Dhund, Tarin, Tanol and Kharal tribes who were fighting against him. The battle was over, the enemy had taken to flight and the Sikh forces had retired form the field. When Amar Singh, thirsty and fatigued went down to the little An obelisk marks the grave of Colonel Canara, a European officer of the Sikh Artillery, who fell in 1848 defending his guns singlehanded against the insurgents under Chattar Singh. Hazara, the country, west of Kashmir, east of Peshawar and northwest of Attock ourHeritage 33 stream Samandar to bathe, he had only few horsemen with him and number of the enemy returning and seeing the weakness of the little party came down and killed Amar Singh and his followers after a desperate defence. After the death of Amar Singh Majithia, Hari Singh Nalwa was appointed the Nazim of Hazara. He was not unknown to the Hazara tribes. When Maharaja Ranjit Singh led the army to conquer Mankera in 1821, he ordered Hari Singh Nalwa, who was in Kashmir to join him there. At that time Hari Singh Nalwa had only seven thousand armymen. On the way he was opposed by twenty thousand wild mountaineers living in the Pakhly hills. Pakhly or Hazara was the spot dreaded by merchants for these tribes demanded toll on the merchandise. Hari Singh, after his vain efforts to induce the enemy to yield him a passage attacked them with vigour and storming their stockade and defeated them with great slaughter. This was no mean achievement to defeat about the twenty thousand Hazara tribes with seven thousand men. Maharaja was much pleased over this exploit of Hari Singh Nalwa. Harpur hazara, landscape Nara, modern Tehsil Abbotabad. Army was stationed there to keep in check the Pathans on this side. On the western side of Hazara territory the river Indus forms the natural defence but the north an eastern side was bounded by partly river Jhelum and partly by the mountainous range known as Pakhly range. In the Ain-i-Akbari, the entire territory is known as Pakhly. Pakly appears to have been derived form Pactyam nation mentioned by Herodotus. According to Ibbetson, Deilzak, Swati, Jadun, Tanaoli and Shilamani tribes chiefly occupied the Hazara territory. In the lower range, according to Prem Singh, the main Pathan tribes were Tarin, Utmanzai, Tarkholi. In order to check these ferocious tribes, Hari Singh Nalwa adopted suitable measures to control them. He built a very strong fort in the valley surrounded by mountains and named it after the eighth Guru of the Sikhs as Harkrishangarh. In the upper ranges of Pakhli there lived mainly Jadun, Tanawali and Swatis. Hari Singh built forts at strategic places and garrisoned them with army. The roads were built to link them, so that reinforcement should be sent from one fort to another fort at the time of crisis. The forts built in the upper ranges of Pakhil were: Fort Nowan Shehar, Fort Dhamtaur, Fort Darband and Fort Shinkiari. Old fort at Tarbela was repaired. In the winter of 1837, Sikhs under their general Hari Singh Nalwa fought a very serious battle against Afghans and occupied the fortress of Jamrud at the entrance of Khyber. Nalwa was beaming with confidence. However in a surprising attack from the enemy when the battle was almost over he was fatally injured. The arrogance and over-confidence cost him his life in the battle of Jamrud. N.K.Sinha has rightly stated that “in Pakhly, Damtaur, Torbela and Darband region Sikh sway was still precarious.” Hari Singh Nalwa was at his right time to be sent there to create a tradition of Griffin, “Hazara was the most turbulent province under the Sikh rule.” In order to understand the measures of Hari Singh Nalwa, it is essential to understand the geographical condition of this region as well as tribal distribution. Hasham Khan belonged to the northern area and was the leader of Kral tribe (or Karlani tribe which is a branch of Khattak tribe). In order to have full control over the area, Hari Singh Nalwa built fort at Hari Singh’s haveli at Katas 34 ourHeritage ourHeritage 35 Kharoshti Script The Language of Gandhara Civilization By Maria. S Museums and historic locations in Pakistan hold the remnants of ancient civilizations and serve as a lingering reminder of the greatness that once was, in the forms of statues, tablets, coins and script of ancient languages. Kharoshtī script is one of the legacies the remind the modern world the glory of Gandhara civilization, called “the land of fragrance,” the kingdom that once existed along the upper tributary of River Indus – the cradle of Buddhism in the North-west Indian Sub-continent and Afghanistan, now in the boundary Pakistan. A series of excavation in today’s North-west Pakistan during the different phases of the 20th century brought into the limelight the Gandhara (civilization), which existed from 1500 BC to 500 BC is referred to a part of Greater Iran (Achaemenid Empire under Darius and Cyrus the Great), the old kingdom of Peshawar and extended to the present day, “Swat” valley (a corrupt derivative of the ancient name of river Suvastu, thus properly pronounced as Suwat valley), the Potohar plateau now in Pakistan and Jalalabad in present Afghanistan. Pushkalavati (now Charsaddah), Taksasila (Taxila) and Purusapura (Peshawar) 36 ourHeritage were the capital centers from the Hellenistic period to the Kushan dynasty until 127 AD. Gandhara was the center of Greco Buddhism, Bactrian Zoroastrianism and Animism Kharoshti script was Developed in 3rd century BC at the zenith of Gandhara Civilization and under the Kushan kings; the time when Purusapura (Peshawar) was mentioned in Zend Avista (sacred text) among the six most beautiful places on Earth. The script was used in writing the Gandhari Prakrit and Sanskrit during Kushan Empire, with center at Taxasila and extended to Bactrea Greek, places that touched the borders along the Silk Route and in Sogdia. The script faded out soon after the 4th century AD. This script is mostly written right to left, but also appears in some inscriptions from left to right and it is believed this was to be the standard practice in later scripts throughout South Asia. The number system in Kharoshtīfaintly resembles the roman numerals. The symbols were ‘I’ for the unit,’ X’ for four, ‘੭’ for ten and ‘ʎ’ for the hundreds multiplier. The system does not have the subtractive component prevalent in the Roman number system. James Prinsep deciphered the script using the Indo-Greek Kingdom’s bilingual coins. It is still debated and is unclear whether the Kharoshtī script developed and evolved or if it was the purposeful and meticulous work of a single inventor. The script’s analysis shows its dependency on Aramaic alphabet, but the sounds being similar to that of Indic languages. A theory suggest that the Achaemenid Empire’s conquest of Indus River brought with it the Aramaic alphabet in 500 BCE which evolved and arrived at its concluding form by 3rd century BCE and has been noted in some of the Edicts of Ashoka. This theory has not been proven due to lack of intermediate forms. Discovery of the Gandharan Buddhist texts exhibit the study of Kharoshti script has had been revitalized. A set of manuscripts were discovered, west of the Khyber Pass in Hadda, Afghanistan and revealed to be the oldest Buddhist manuscripts recovered so far. The set was donated to the British Library in 1994. Brahmi script was invented around the same period in the South-east Asia and was later applied in modern script of India and South-east Asian countries. But unlike Brahmi, Kharoshti script had no descendent. The language spoken with Kharoshti alphabets had a complete script, believed to be a derivative of the Aramic alphabet, with alphabets and numerals, in which consonant-vowel sequences were written as a unit. Every syllable has a short ‘a’ sound while other vowels were indicated by diacritic marks. The alphabet was used as a mnemonic in Gandhara Buddhism, for ease of remembering verses about the nature of phenomenon ourHeritage 37 38 ourHeritage ourHeritage 39 Punjpeer Rocks By:Daniyah Sehar “Open Sesame”, and there opens the doors to an invisible land which only reveals its beauty to one who utters the magical words. There are some places that often hide many pleasant surprises. One such place is Punjpeer Rocks (1800 meters), situated at a distance of 80 kms from Islamabad. Punjpeer is the highest point of the Danoi Ridge in Kotli Sattian/Kahuta. It is a site with such a picturesque beauty that casts a spell and mesmerizes all the visitors. 40 ourHeritage From silky water streams and waterfalls, unique boulders, a dense pine forest and spell bounding scenery, there is so much that this hidden heaven offers to its eager invitees. The name Punjpeer came from the local fable that five saints from five corners of the world came here and meditated here for over a 1,000 year. To commemorate those holy men there is a little shrine. Unlike other shrines it does not have a grave and only has a meditating place under an old Banyan tree that from the looks of it does appear to be many hundred years old. Infact tree itself looks like an ‘avatar’, an old wise Saint! Surrounded by whispering pines and rocky boulders, this heaven provides a peaceful setting for your mountain get-away. You can easily hike to Punjpeer for a family picnic, reading or just relaxing and breathing the fresh mountain air. It is accessible from two routes from Islamabad. The first route is to go to Kahuta. Once there, traverse its main bazar from where on your left side you will hit Azad Pattan road. Travel onto that road and after 12 kilometers will come Panjaar, keep driving till you reach Narar. From Narar there is a jeep trek follow that ourHeritage 41 trek. Another 5 kilometers drive and you will find a parking point on right side of the road. Park your vehicles there and continue your hike to the top. The other one goes around Lehtrar road to Chaint, only to leave the main Lehtrar Kotli Sattian road to drive on a link road to Danoi forest rest house about six kilometers up in the mountains and then hike on a trek which is in fact an abandoned jeep trek to reach the top. It doesn’t matter which route you take, as both are equally fascinating. Once you are on top you witness the legacy of PunjPeer Rocks. As mentioned above PunjPeer Rocks is the highest point of Danoi Ridge. While standing on the top one see panoramic views of Makra peak (3586meters) and Musa ka Musala (4080meters) and other peaks of Kaghan region. 42 ourHeritage In the East one can witness the peaks of Pir Panjal Range and especially Kongdori (3050 m), which sparkles like a jewel. In the northeast flows the mighty River Jhelum and the whole Jhelum valley stretches, adding in the beauty of this place. We all lead incredibly busy lives, so take some time off to relax and let the Punjpeer Rocks work its magic on you. Sit at the foot of a pine tree. Think of how special the place is, the quiet of the forest, the solitude of whispering pines, the opportunity to immerse in clean air and feel the pulse of nature. Trust me it is the place that will let you have many memories and each of the memory will be of pure joy! ourHeritage 43 By: Khuzaima Fatima Haque Pakistan is one of the most attractive destinations for golfers around the world. However, the sad part is that this has been a secret that has been kept for too long. Neither have the golfers’ potential in Pakistan been tapped to its full potential. The country rightly boasts some of the most spectacular courses that are open year round. Thus technically, the grass is green all year round. The alluvial soil of the Punjab plains coupled with the Himalayan backdrop provides a natural ecosystem for an interesting golf course layout. Similarly, the sandy land in Sindh also adds the much needed variety required by ideal golf courses. 44 ourHeritage As history reads, golf in Pakistan literally started from scratch. The British used to play golf when they ruled over the Sub-Continent. As they left with their golf-sticks and golf balls, so was golf wiped off the minds of the people. However, at that time only a select few die-hard fans made great efforts to keep it alive. Tajuddin Salimi from Lahore and Rashid Habib of Karachi in West Pakistan and Major Mohsin Ali in the East Wing are the ones who felt that this was a game worth keeping alive. Until 1958, Lahore with its two golf clubs, the Lahore Gymkhana and PVTR Club and Tea Estate Golf Clubs in East Pakistan were the only places where golf was being played. Unlike cricket or hockey, golf neither attracted an audience nor a vast number of players. It was a game sportsmen in Pakistan seldom thought worth playing. It was quite far from being recognized as a full-fledged game to be taken up professionally. Thus, the progress of golf in Pakistan has been rather slow yet steady. With time, golfers have developed their potential and started to make their presence felt on national and international fronts. To date, Pakistan has qualified for the Golf World Cup for a total of 4 times, in 1975, 1977, 1982, and 2009, when they finished joint 22nd out of the 28 qualifying teams. Golf has emerged as a sport after much concrete steps were taken up. In 1960, the Pakistan Golf Union was formed that later on took the shape of the Pakistan Golf Federation, an organised body that now keeps track of all golf activities in the country. Women golf players are also on the rise. In the past, the Pakistan Golf Union covered golf courses in Karachi, Dacca, Rawalpindi, Lahore Gymkhana and Pakistan West Railways. The founding members included Chief Justice Cornelius who served as the Union’s first President while Rashid Habib became the Vice President and Tajuddin Salimi was elected Honorary Secretary and held this office till 1965, when he became the official coach of the golf union. In the seventies, several new courses and clubs were added to the golfing map of Pakistan. Smaller cities like Kharian, Jhelum, Multan, Gujranwala, Okara and Bahawalpur have also developed gold clubs. Meanwhile, there has been a significant addition to golf courses in Lahore, Islamabad and Karachi. Additionally, professional players like Shafiq, Mahmood Hussain and Nazir have also been doing well in the competitions and have helped promote the sport in the country. Meanwhile, Pakistani golf players Muhammad Shabbir and Muhammad Munir of Islamabad Golf and Country Club are also two of the top golf players that Pakistan has produced. They have also represented Pakistan in different international level golf tournaments too. In 2009, these remarkable golf players made a new history for the Pakistani golf by qualifying in the Omega Mission Hills World Cup for the first time ever. It has been an honor for Pakistan to be amongst the top three teams of the world which qualified for the Golf World Cup. Today, the country has several beautiful golf clubs sprawling over acres of land. Karachi Golf Club is one of the oldest in the country. Here is where the Pakistan Open takes place every year. The Pakistan Open was founded in 1967. As the event gained momentum and popularity among the locals it turned into the Asian Tour event in 2006. Taimur Hussain has been Pakistan’s most successful golfer, as he won the 1998 Myanmar Open, becoming the first Pakistani to win on the Asian Tour. MUHAMMA SHABBIR-IQBAL Apart from this, some of other major golf courses in Pakistan include the Royal Palm Golf and Country Club, Lahore Gymkhana, DHA Golf Club Karachi, Islamabad Golf Club, Garrison Golf and Country Club Lahore, Rawalpindi Golf Club, Peshawar golf Club and a few newly established ones like the Defence Raya Golf Club in Lahore. Currently there are more than forty golf courses in the Today, all golf clubs are affiliated to the Pakistan Golf Federation and the Provincial Golf Associations. Golf membership is on the increase and has grown to more than 5,000 members. The most well known golfers in the country are Sajid, Javed, Khurram Khan, lqbal Wali. All these are par with Taimur Hasan and other top stars like Ghias Bhatti and Faisal Quershi. ourHeritage 45 country and all are serving at their best to promote the game to a larger extent in different parts of Pakistan. These golf courses can be divided into three main categories. The fist category include the old golf courses like Rawal Pindi, Lahore Gymkhana, Peshawar Golf Course, Islamabad Golf Course and others like these. The main feature of these old well kept courses is that they are generally well maintained and have old trees and a lot of character. The Rawalpindi Golf course is the oldest golf course and dates back to 1926. The facility was initially developed as a nine-hole course. After several phases of development, it is now a 27-hole course. Its accompanying clubhouse is perched on a hill. A panoramic view of the twin cities of Islamabad and Rawalpindi are visible from the club house and are a treat for anyone visiting the place. The second category of courses includes the ones that are maintained by Pakistan’s Armed Forces and government entities like Pakistan Railways etc. These tend to be relatively new and not open to general membership. The quality of facilities and upkeep varies from course to course. However, the best part is that the cost of playing at these places is minimal. The third category includes premier golf courses like Royal Palm in Lahore and Arabian Sea Country Club in Karachi. They are world class courses that have manicured fairways and greens. Interestingly, there is a very big market for golf items internationally. The Pakistani industry produces many golf supplies leveraging their textile and leather industrial base. Pakistani T-shirts, caps, towels, trousers, gloves, bags and head covers are sold worldwide under different brand names. On the whole, even though Pakistan has limited resources to promote golf on the national or international fronts, the kind of advancement and the emerging professional golf players show a lot of promise for the future of the game in the country. What has been achieved so far is quite commendable. Now is the time that golf needs to be taken up more seriously and the true potential needs to be tapped to its fullest. The time is not far that if correct guidance and proper funds are provided, Pakistan can be one of the most popular countries for golf with great golf players and remarkable golf courses at its disposal. Muhammad Shabbir and Muhammad Munir of Pakistan during the Omega Mission Hills World Cup Asian Qualifier 46 ourHeritage ourHeritage 47 48 ourHeritage ourHeritage 49 50 ourHeritage ourHeritage 51 Waris Shah & Malka Hans Waris Shah’s exact date of birth is not known but historians place it between1710 and 1738 AD. However, the year he completed his great work, Heer, is surely 1766 because he gave the date in his book’s concluding stanza. Therefore, we know that he was a few decades younger than Bulleh Shah and Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai and was a contemporary of Sachal Sarmast, Mir Taqi Mir and Khawaja Mir Dard. Waris Shah was born in Jandiala Sher Khan, a small hamlet close to Hiran Minar, Sheikhupura, about 40 kilometers from Lahore. The town was dominated by Afghan Pathans who were the major landowners. It seems from circumstantial evidence that Waris Shah’s father, Gulsher Shah, must have been living a modest life as the town’s religious teacher or “paish imam”. Poor condition of Waris Shah’s grave till the 1960s shows that his family was not rich. Further, his documented wandering in the Sahiwal-Pakpattan area and his choice of Malka Hans’s mosque also shows that his family was unable to support an unemployed poet. Malka Hans is a historical town, of Punjab in Pakistan. It is located in the Pakpattan District and is part of Pakpattan Tehsil. During Waris Shah’s lifetime Delhi throne rotated among many incompetent rulers while Ahmad Shah Abdali and Marhattas were constantly ruling Punjab and Northern India. On top of that, 52 ourHeritage Dr. Shaukat Mahmood Being in proximity of Lahore, the power center for Punjab, the hometown of Waris Shah Jandiala Sher Khan was overrun many times by different warring sections. That may have been one of the reasons that he chose Malka Hans, far away from center of continuous wars, to write his treatise. the Sikh guerilla movement led by sections of poor Jatts was establishing misals (territories comprising a few districts or smaller units) in the entire region. On a practical level, the Mughal empire’s hold in Punjab had come to an end, the local Sikh misal chiefs were providing security to villages and towns for a small fee in comparison to the Mughal rulers’ taking of half or one-third of the crop. Consequently, the farmers and peasantry were much more prosperous while the major portions of population lead a miserable life. The Jatts became rulers of the land and every place had its own governance. The aristocracy was ruined, the working class was refreshed [better off] and the land owners were blooming with prosperity. Pranami (often mis-spelt as Parnami) religion is a branch of Vaishnavism (Vaisnava dharma) which in itself is one of the major branches of Hinduism along with Shaivism, Smartism and Shaktism. It is focused on the veneration of Vishnu. Vaishnavites, or the followers of the Vishnu, lead a way of life promoting the central importance of Vishnu. Followers of this sect worship Vishnu, the supreme lord and preserver of the Hindu Trimurti (‘three images’, the Trinity), and his ten avatars, including Rama and Krishna. The adherents of this sect are generally non-ascetic, monastic and devoted to meditative practice and ecstatic chanting. They are deeply devotional. Vaishnavism is rich in saints, temples and scriptures. The founder of the sect, Shri Devchandra Maharaj (1581–1655), was born in Sindh province in Umarkot village. From early childhood, he showed saintly tendencies. At the age of 16, he renounced the world and left in search of Brahma-gyana (divine knowledge) to Bhuj in Kutch and later to Jamnagar. Devchandraji undertook the work of giving concrete shape and form to find a new stream of religion called Nijanand Sampradaya. He settled down in Jamnagar, where form he explainedVedas, Vedantic knowledge and Bhagwatam in simple language intelligible to lay persons irrespective of social class and religious differences, and awaken them to their real Self with the help of divine knowledge called “Tartam”. His followers later came to be known as Sundarsaths or Pranami. Being in proximity of Lahore, the power center for Punjab, the hometown of Waris Shah Jandiala Sher Khan was overrun many times by different warring sections. That may have been one of the reasons that he chose Malka Hans, far away from center of continuous wars, to write his treatise. Waris Shah has not written much about his hometown’s suffering but he lamented the plundering of Kasur which was then highest seat of learning and he was educated there himself. “From the entire country of Punjab I am extremely saddened about Kasur.” Waris Shah, came here from his native village of Jandiala Sher Khan and composed the classic epic, Heer in 1766. There is a mosque related to the poet as well as his famous composition Heer. Beside the mosque another landmark is Pranami Mandir, well known for its amazing decorative elements in brick, plaster and wood beside frescos. ourHeritage 53 The credit of spreading the Pranami religion goes to his dearest disciple and successor, Mahamati Prannathji (Mehraj Thakur) (1618–1694), who was the son of Keshav Thakur, Diwan of Jamnagar State. He traveled throughout India and four other countries including Pakistan, Oman, Iraq and Iran to spread the ideals of religious harmony and interfaith understanding the vision of Tartam professes. Through him was revealed the divine knowledge later compiled as the holy “Kuljam Swaroop” in six languages like Gujarati, Sindhi, Arabic, Persian, Urdu, Hindi and also in many other prevalent languages. His work is called Kuljam Swarup. “The Kuljam Swaroop Saheb and Bitak Saheb, the Holy Words of Lord Prannath, are regarded to be the two authentic holy books of this faith. Therefore, in matters of principles, these two holy books are regarded as the ultimate authority. No major literature was generated during the time of Nijanand Swami, the founder of this faith. A variety of literature is available today on the various aspects of the Nijanand Sampradaya. Various prominent Comrade Sundersath of that time, such as Navrang Swami, wrote a good number of books to expand upon Prannathji’s supreme wisdom. They do offer a valuable explanation regarding the many topics discussed in the holy books of the Pranami faith.” Tartam Sagar (or Shri Tartam Sagar or Shri Swarup Saheb) is main Granth of the Shri Krishna Pranami Dharma is worshipped unlike the idols in Shri Krishna Pranami temples worldwide. He also attended Kumbh Mela at Haridwar in 1735 Bikrami (1678 AD) and was engaged in religious debates in which he conveniently became victorious and was conferred the title of “Niskalanka Bijayaabhinand Buddha Avatar” by the saints of various sects and creeds. In Pranami Temple of Malka Hans a great festival was organized and celebrated in particular days. It had a vast area where all and sundry came in the form of groups to get their wills to be fulfilled. They had 54 ourHeritage different idols like Rain god, Health god, Food god and many other gods and goddesses to worship. Beside this in the surroundings of this temple, there was a largest boarding school of District Montgomery (now Sahiwal), Pranami School, was a school of great repute where Hindu came far and near to get education. The area of this temple consisted of almost 60 to 70 square acres. There was a tunnel in this temple too whose marks also exists even today. What was the purpose of this tunnel and it connected the Pranami Temple to which destination no one knows since it is almost choked with dust, debris and earth now. The Pranami Temple of Malka Hans was visited by a minister of India Mr. H.K.L Bhagat who was local resident of Malka Hans before partition. Hari Krishan Lal Bhagat (April 4, 1921 – October 29, 2005) was an Indian politician of the Congress party. Earlier he served as Deputy Mayor, Mayor of Delhi and as the chief whip of Delhi Pradesh Congress Committee. He grew in political stature after Congress’s victory in the local elections in1983. He held important ministerial positions including Information and Broadcasting, and made the staterun TV “Doordarshan” the Congress party’s mouthpiece during the mid 1980s. ourHeritage 55 Virtual Pakistan Text by: Khuzaima Fatima Haque Sitting on the sofa in your lounge, sipping from a hot cup of coffee, with an iPad in your hands, today you can enjoy the views of the famous Lahore Museum, inside out. Not only this, but the delicate artwork at Wazir Khan Mosque or the coin collection at the Lahore Museum is an easily reachable reality. Bundled together, these majestic collections of historical must-visit places in Pakistan are now on the international map for national and international virtual travellers. Thanks to the Google Cultural Institute, a special project is dedicated to some of Pakistan’s cultural and historical sites. Called the “Wonder of Pakistan”, it brings forth the exhibit at Mohatta Palace in Karachi, the Lahore Museum, the Faqir Khanna Museum, Badshhi Mosque, and Jahangir’s Tomb among a few others. The Google Cultural Institute is a non-profit initiative that was founded in 2011. It partners with cultural organizations around the world organizing the World’s Cultural heritage online. Their major task is to build free tools and technologies 56 ourHeritage for the cultural sector to showcase and share its riches. The artefacts, buildings and history are thus made available to a wider global audience, many of them who would never be able to travel to such far off places around the world. “Art Camera” is a state of the art system for capturing paintings at ultra-high resolution. The team at the Google Cultural Institute is currently focusing on making this system easy to use, and is also improving the capture time so a painting is shot in an hour or less. Jahangir’s Tomb, Lahore No wonder then, that the ancient cultural history and heritage of mankind safeguarded by cultural institutions and museums spread all over the world are now available at a touch of a button. This is quite an exciting step for Pakistan since we will be able to showcase more and more of the treasures and the rich heritage that we take for granted. For example, hundreds of years of history preserved at the Lahore Fort and the Lahore Museum presented in an extremely attractive style spells more tourism for the country. On the other side of the picture is the fact that virtual visitors will see a positive and a much brighter side of Pakistan that is not marred by blood and terrorism. Meanwhile, specially-designed Street View gives the virtual visitor a seamless 360° virtual tour of the site being visited. Even the tiles on the floor, the delicate marble work on the walls and the intricate details of the location being visited by the virtual tourist are visible to the last detail. The visitor can actually “jump from a gallery’s interior into a high resolution version of the artwork with additional details.” when they came from Delhi to Lahore. Interestingly, this trail takes the visitor through a series of experiences. It connects many of the heritage monuments like Shahi Hamam Turkish Bath), Wazir Khan Mosque, Sonehri (Golden) Mosque and tomb of Malik Ayaz, a Mughal governor of Lahore. The images are as amazing as can be and so is the short history that is written alongside them. Once can actually go from a bird’s eye view One of the most interesting exhibits in the Wonders of Pakistan project is “The Royal Trail”. Described as “a heritage trail that leads from Delhi Gate to the Lahore Fort,” it is actually the route that was once followed by Mughal Emperors Forecourt of the Wazir Khan Mosque, Lahore ourHeritage 57 of the entire area right down to the mosaic work of the building or track the cracks in the walls of the old Lahore Fort. The Faqir Khanna Museum is yet another feather in the cap. A hidden treasure trove, this is the largest private collection in South Asia of miniature paintings, Islamic art, Persian carpets, woodwork, coins and fabric. The place itself is unique in terms of design and the cultural stories attached to it as the provide lives of those who lived here for ages has been turned inside out and made public for tourists . Mohatta Palace Museum facade All in all, Pakistan’s heritage, monuments and cultural wonders are now open to the global audience and Pakistan can proudly show off its huge variety of wonders that were hidden in the past. Happy touring! Fakir Khana Museum, Lahore 58 ourHeritage PICTURES COURTESY: https://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/project/wonders-of-pakistan ourHeritage 59 Skardu Doorway To Travel Adventure By: Saifuddin Ismailji 60 ourHeritage Skardu is the administrative town of Baltistan and a staging post to witness some of nature’s most violent episodes, which created some of most steep high-rise in the form of a series of unique and beautiful mountains. Soon after the announcement (Telegraph UK, 15 April, 2015) that “The Foreign Office (Pakistan) has lifted advice against travelling to the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan;” Jonny Bealby - founder of adventure tour operator, Wild Frontiers, said that the revised travel advice was “great news” for the area. “Gilgit-Baltistan is very close to my heart, as the beauty of the area and the hospitality of the local people inspired me to start Wild Frontiers, in order to allow others to discover this fantastic region,” he said. http://www.telegraph. co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/ pakistan/11539647/Foreign-Officerelaxes-Pakistan-travel-advice.html Despite the remoteness, people from neighbouring land migrated to Skardu and adjoining valleys. They are the Aryan herdsmen from the north; Tibetans from Ladakh via Shyok and Indus River; Buddhist trot via Silk Road up the Indus before entering the region and more recently, explorers from Gilgit region found their way via Hispar glacier (Humza). Therefore, a strong variation in appearance of local population and faces resemble people of Tibetan and central Asian origin. A part of Skardu is called the “Little Tibet” with pockets of settlements of people belonging to Tibetan origin and to date practise Tibetan traditions. The locals made a living ploughing the rich soil cultivating fruits and vegetable and scanning gold in the waters of the Indus. before taking on ardent trail to some of the most isolated mountain frontiers on the Earth dominated by the Kara-Koram: a Kyrgyz term meaning Black-Gravel; the mountain system, which is 311 miles (500 kms) in length spanning the regions of Pakistan (Gilgit-Baltistan) also including India (Ladakh) and China (Xinjiang). The highest concentration of the peaks over an area of 5 miles (8kms) is found nowhere on the Earth but in the Baltistan region along the most heavily glaciated part of the world outside the Polar Regions. Today, the Karakoram (and the Himalayas) forms one of the world’s most geologically active areas, at the boundary between two colliding continents (Euraisan-Indian). Of the three Climatic Zones: Sub Alpine: Human settlement and productive areas from 1000 – 1,800 meters. Alpine: Alpine zone is situated above the tree line and below the permafrost limit (at about 2,600 meters); the alpine meadows are often used as pastures. Glacial: The highland zone mark from 1500 metres and above. Outskirt Skardu is world renowned to a reality come true, the setting for “Shangri La” - a fictional place described in James Hilton’s 1933 novel, Lost Horizon. The pastoral valleys adjoining Skardu makes an agreeable ground for mountaineers and trekking expeditions to luxuriate ourHeritage 61 Skardu is located at an average height of 2300 metres above sea level, and climbs to 4800m (15,750ft) at the point of Concordia base camp Mount K-2. Above the Glacier zone, Skardu is the doorway to explore phenomenal places on the Earth. ∙ Banak Pass TrekBara ∙ Brok Lake Basho Valley Trek ∙ Deosai Plateau Trek ∙ Gondogoro Pass Trek ∙ Haramosh Pass Trek (16 days round trip) ∙ Hispar Pass Trek (Biafo Glacier to Hunza) ∙ Hushey Valley trek ∙ K2 Base Camp Concordia Trek ∙ K2 Gondogoro La Trek ∙ Masherbrum Base Camp Trek ∙ Taley Pass trek 62 ourHeritage Rich in unique flower and fauna and home to 124 resident animals and birds including the Himalayan ibex, Himalayan brown-bear, snow leopard, golden eagle; the Great Plains of Deosai meaning Giant’s Chair, the world’s largest and 2nd highest plateau (4,414 m) on Earth bear not a single tree in the entire howling wilderness. Easy way getting there is by 4X Drive, which is 30 km from Skardu. Deosai National Park borders Skardu (north), Gultari Kharmang (southeast) and Astore (west) districts abound Karakoram and the western Himalaya. Best time to visit the Plains in full bloom from mid June to August. Biafo Glacier (60 km. long) and Hispar Glacier (61 km. long) meet at the 5,151 meters Hispar Pass – the longest ice corridor on Earth that form one of the longest glacial systems outside the polar regions. K2 Base Camp Concordia Trek: Located in an active collision zone between the two continental plates, the land mass that cast the terrain into deep cervices roars to the wounds, as it strip coat of ice submit into the phenomenal river of ice. To reach the base camp of nature’s perfect pyramid mountain: K-2, you will have to employ a great deal of perseverance, physical fitness and prior experience in trekking. Nearing the junction of Concordia at the meeting of the Godwin-Austin glacier and the Upper-Baltoro glacier, a single sweep of vision manifest the majestic K-2 (locally called Chogo-ri 8’611 meters), Broad Peak (8,047m), Gasherbrum I (8,068m) Gasherbrum II (8,035m), Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), Saltoro Kangri (7,742m), Chogolisa (7,654m) and Baltoro Kangri (7,312m), prominently. The Mount K-2 (so named, as the 2nd peak measured in the Karakoram Range) base camp is at the concurrence of the world’s 2nd and 3rd largest glaciers: the Siachen (70 km) and Biafo (63kms) - the phenomenal place with a cluster of nature’s rare perspectives: K-2 (8611 meters, and 2nd highest after the Everest), Gasherbrum I (8068m), Broad Peak (8047m), Gasherbrum II (8035m), Gasherbrum III (7952m), Gasherbrum IV (7925m), Dastagil Sar (7885m), Masherbrum I (7921m), Batura (7795m), Rakaposhi (7788m), Chogolisa (7665m), Muztag Tower (7273m) – among the known picturesque peaks and many more un-named 7000ers and 6000er peaks. ourHeritage 63 Tent in Islamic History Dr. Shaukat Mahmood Tent primarily is a temporary shelter, usually made of flexible materials stretched over poles, wooden or of bamboos. Pre-Islamic Arab nomads had no means of transporting tents, so they set up a fresh shelter at each campsite. It was particularly difficult for them to carry the poles when they had no animals. Nomads with animals, nevertheless, carried poles or covers or both with them. If the covers were made of animals’ skin, they were never left behind. The Arabs seldom used tepee kind of tents. Their tents were generally large and often had many poles, used vertical, horizontal and oblique. The pastoral nomads of Asia and North Africa still use portable dwellings. In central Asian countries, a tent called yurt is used. From Mauritania in North Africa to Afghanistan and China “black tent” is used. This is a tent made of cloth woven of black goat hair, spread and stretched over poles and held by guy-ropes fastened to stakes. The black cloth is water-repellent and the draped form allows ample ventilation. This tent is very suitable for hot arid climate. Early Arabs lived in skin-covered tents like those still used by the Arabs and some tribes of North Africa. Hebrew pastoralists of Old Testament also lived in such tents. Sumptuous tents were used for entertaining guests in Iran. In the early 8th century, Charlemagne received a magnificent tent from Harun al-Rashid, the famous Caliph of Baghdad. 64 ourHeritage According to Clavijo, the Spanish ambassador to Timur (1404), “The royal court at Kani-gil outside Samarqand had one tent, the walls of which were made of crimson tapestry with wistest of white embroidery. This tent could hold ten thousand people at a time. Another was of red silk adorned with rows of silver gilt spangles”. Clavijo says that he waited in the shade of an awning of white linen adorned with coloured embroidery. Before being taken to the vast reception pavilion, “Here the tall tent poles were painted blue and gold. The inner walls were hung with crimson tapestry, the outer walls with silk cloth woven in white, black and yellow stripes and the whole pavilion was surrounded by a wall of many coloured silk cloth. Clavijo describes another tent of Timur having gates, a domed ceiling, upper galleries, a turret and battlements. A fortune was spent on inner furnishings including tapestries, silks and gold brocades. A lot was spent on their illumination as well. Timur, like all his ancestors loved an outdoor life which automatically promoted the art of tent manufacturing and technology of pitching them. Their erection and dismantling was a part of this technology. The silk tents used during this period were of different shapes and sizes: the awning or canopy, open in front and held taut by guy-ropes in the back; the round parasol with a single centre pole and the oval with double parasol with two poles; the tent with a ridgepole and the saddle-back in which the fabric dips or sags between the two poles. Even for the Fatimid caliphs in Cairo, tents constituted one of the most precious categories of object in their treasury. One of their tents needed as many as one hundred camels to carry, just like the keys of the treasury of Qarun. One of their tents was called slayer because at least two workers were killed every time they tried to pitch it. In Arabic, tent is known as Khayma or Khaima. But, the nomads’ tents were referred as bayt by the ancient Arab poets and writers and bayt simply means a house. The Semitic term bayt still indicates a khayma or a tent. Later, the Arabs, in order to remove confusion for tent which is a temporary adobe introduced a new term bayt sha’ar. Bayt sha’ar means a ‘dwelling of hair’. Bayt sha’ar is still current in nomadic and semi-nomadic tribes of Arabia, Africa and the Near East. The word khayma has come to acquire the general meaning of a mobile dwelling made of animal hair, sha’ar or any other material except leather. Early Arab philologists supply us the vocabulary of tents that were in vogue in the pre-Islamic Arabia. Ibn an-Nadim quoting AlAsma’i and his book Kitab al-Akhbiya wa’l bayut tells us several other names for the tent and their types or sizes Mizalla or mazalla, made of goat hair was the most spacious tent. The origin of mazalla is perhaps zullah or zil which means ‘shadow’. Wasut was yet another kind. This was also made of animal hair. The term was not widely used, but lexicographers do not agree about the meaning of wasut though the word was used to denote a small tent. The bayt sha’ar (or sha’r) was of goat’s hair and of average size. It served as a dwelling for breeders of small livestock. Another type was khiba’. It was similar to bayt sha’ar, but it was made of camel’s hair (wabar) or wool (suf), hence also called bayt wabar and its inhabitants were known as ahl al-wabar. ourHeritage 65 A cloth tent of large or very large dimensions was called suradik like the one used by Timur and other emperors. Contrary to suradik, fustat was a smaller hair tent used by travellers. The royal fustat was called midrab. When the tent was of domical shape or it was made of hide or skin, it was known as kubba, a term still current to signify domes of mosques and mausolea. A hide tent was also called adim (adeem). When we shook the Mount Over them, as if it had been A canopy, and they thought It was going to fall on them (We said): “Hold firmlyTo what We have given you, And bring (ever) to remembrance What is therein; Perchance ye may fear Allah. It seems quite probable that the word khayma had come into vogue in Arabia much before the advent of Islam. It, however, implied something stretched overhead. Imad al-Din’s book al-Barq al Sharmi says that the town of Amid was famous for the production of busut, furush and khiyam, all woven products. The origin of the word khayma is obscure and the lexicographers provide us no substantive evidence of its origin. In the holy Qur’an, however, in Sura lv (Al-Rahman), verse 72 khiyam (plural of khayma) has been used, to quote: This must be remembered that ‘Hurun maqsuratun fi’l khiyam’ (Tr.) Companions (houris) restrained (as toTheir glances), in goodly pavilions. Then which of the favours Of your Lord will ye deny? and in Sura vii (Al- A’raf), verse 171, there is a reference to zullah meaning a canopy: 66 ourHeritage though at its rudimentary stage, khayma was just an overhanging canopy of sha’ar or wabar, the concept became complex later on with a number of adjuncts associated with khayma. It is interesting to learn how a tent was prepared. A rectangular sheet of cloth, according to the size desired, was prepared joining numerous bands (falija or shukka) or shiqqa (pronounced shigga) together. Towards the end of the longitudurial sides (kisr or kasr) were attached stronger stripes. The underside was provided with a pole called tariqa. The terminal of tariqa was called hatar. Hatar was tied to ropes (tunab, plural atnab). The ropes were then tied to pegs (watid, plural awtid) pitched in ground with the help of a mallet (mitad or mitada). The small space between the tent and the ground was filled by isar (plural usur) or smaller tunabs. The ridge-piece was of great importance, it was called jaiz. This was held on a ridgepole. In Arabia, central tariqa took the role of jaiz. The vertical posts or poles were also called amud or di’ama. Their top ends were cushioned to prevent damage to main tent. The cushions were made of felt (libd, plural albad). Where the rain was a possibility the khayma was surrounded by a small moat or drain (nuy, niy, nay or nua), it banks being made of earth iyad. Inside a curtain (khidr) was hung to provide a separate area for women and following the name of the curtain, this ladies’ area was also called khidr (plural al-khudur) or mahram or muharram. The area occupied by men-folk was called raba’a or maq’ad al-rijal. Sometime in the middle was a buffer zone for making qahwa or tea. The number of poles supporting the roof varied according to size and the requirement for ventilation. A tent with one ridgepole was called ‘udiya or qotba, with two poles faza or qarnayn. From a tent with three poles onwards, the name of the tent becomes associated with number of polls. Thus a tent with three poles was called muthallath, four poles murabba’, five poles mukhammas, six poles musaddas and seven poles musawbha. This last one was of considerable size sometimes more than 50 metres long. The Mongol felt-tent was called ger and it was similar to Turkish tents, oy. These tents had trellis walls made of wooden planks. These tents were usually conical. The Mongols had another kind of tent called maykhan which was very low. This was used by the caravans. The history of mediaeval Islamic tents is almost nonexistent though even the kings and emperors have made copious and luxuriant use of them. Islamic miniature paintings nonetheless, shed lot of light at least on their shapes, colours, sizes and features. “The Islamic historical sources on the Turkish migrations into the Iranian world and beyond are inexplicit on the technical details of Turkish tents in the mediaeval period and we can only find odd gleanings, such as the information in Gardizi, Zayn al-akhbar, that when Mahmud of Ghazna and the Kara-Khanid Kadir Khan Yusuf met at Samarkand in 415 A.H. / 1025 A.D., the Sultan had a personal tent of ruby-coloured Shushtari brocade, with a canopy and roof of woven brocade (the tent, saray-parda which allegedly held 10,000 horsemen, must have been in fact a whole series of tents forming an encampment for Mahmud’s forces). “ “The earliest Mongol sources such as the Secret History and the account of the Mongol expansion of the 13th century, both Islamic and European (the latter including e.g. the travel narratives of William of Rubruck and John of Plano Carpini) state that at that time, the steppe peoples, Turks and Mongols, often transported their tents in ox-carts. These last were not only highly-mobile within the steppes, but could be very quickly loaded up with the tents and the whole encampment quickly broken up.” The use of tent is still prevalent and is a dernier cri in the Arab world and the magic of tent has turned into an obsession if not a syndrome. Even today, when all the luxuries of life are available to Arabs, they still occasionally go out to deserts set up tents and live in those tents for days. Colonel Qaddafi of Libya loved to receive his international guests in tents erected in desert far away from the capital. Likewise, Kings of Saudi Arabia too love to spend some time in tents stationed in deserts. Old habits die hard. ourHeritage 67 Dinner Hosted By Mr. Sadruddin Hashwani Chairman Hashoo Group 68 ourHeritage KARACHI RAWALPINDI 70 ourHeritage PESHAWAR MUZAFFARABAD ourHeritage 71 BHURBAN LAHORE 72 ourHeritage ISLAMABAD KARACHI ourHeritage 73 74 ourHeritage ourHeritage 75 76 ourHeritage