Popular Hives in the UK - The Barefoot Beekeeper

Popular Hives in the UK
By
Mike Alsop
www.fdbka.co.uk
Nov/Dec 2009
Contents
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Intro
Hive Parts
Hive summary
National - 1920's
Deep National – 1946 revised 1960
Top Bar Hive – (circa 2650 BC)
Dartington - 1975
WBC – 1890
Smith – post 1920
Commercial – 1960's
Modified Dadant (MD) - 1917
Langstroth – 1850
Langstroth Jumbo - 1905
Warré hive - (? - 1951)
Rose Hive – post 2000
Which hive is the right one for me?
Intro
Modern Beehives
Hives are a convenient way of containing a colony of bees while protecting them from the elements
and predators, they enable the colony to build up and maximise honey production without in any way
being detrimental to the bees. Hives are made to precise measurements so all the parts within the
outer shell fit properly and give a suitable space for the bees to suit the local weather conditions and
climate.
I have listed a lot of info here about the most common types of hives, but from a bee's perspective it
really doesn't matter.
Which then leaves the bee keeper with a few choices of which hive would suit them best. All the hives
listed apart from the Warré and Top Bar use frames and foundation. They are managed roughly the
same over the course of a season so it really doesn't matter which hive type a new bee keeper starts
with but I would recommend they use the same as other bee keepers within their association and if
possible start with two colonies in case one colony has a problem.
To some bee keepers its not the amount of honey or the size of the colony that matters, they believe
there are many problems with the conventional methods and its better to allow the bees to act as if
they were in the wild creating their own brood nest instead of being given a sheet of embossed wax
held in a frame. I won't go into some of the other reasons but needless to say the bees are perfectly
capable of looking after their own brood nest without the need for frames or foundation.
As you may well hear a few times ask some bee keepers one question and will get back several
different answers. If it was possible to ask a honey bee the question what would she want?
I like to think her answer would be this simple
Some where dry and draft proof, free from disease and all other types of pests. Plenty of pollen and
nectar to gather and of course lots of warm weather so they can do what they are best at which is
making honey.
All modern 'framed' hives contain the same basic parts
----
Roof
----
Crown board
----
Super
----
Queen Excluder
----
Brood chamber
----
Floor
----
Entrance block
The Floor or hive base is a vital piece of the hive, most floors are made from a solid sheet of wood
to help contain the internal temperatures and keep the frost out, more recently with the problems of
Varroa an optional open wire mesh floor could be used to help remove the unwanted mite from the
hive. In addition the mesh provides ventilation which some say it allows you to keep a narrow
entrance fitted all year around which is easier for the bees to defend. A good size of mesh has holes
of approx 4 mm large enough to allow the Varroa to fall through but small enough to keep the hive
secure from unwanted pests.
Entrance Block is fitted to reduce access to the hive during the winter time to help keep the
warmth in and unwanted visitors out, during the spring and summer it can be removed when the
colony is of a suitable size to defend a larger opening and thus gives the flying bee's easier access
directly into the hive. The entrance block should be refitted if the hive is being attacked by another
colony or if the weather is poor for that time of season.
The Brood Box is the largest chamber of the hive, this is where the queen lives all year round
and lays her eggs, the colony will also store pollen, nectar and honey for themselves in this chamber
so its within easy reach. The maximum colony size is determined by the size of this chamber which is
different depending on the type of hive. During the spring through to summer when the colony size
has built up bee keepers will commonly split a colony, by removing some of the frames from the
brood chamber which contain plenty of sealed brood, pollen and honey to start up a new colony in
another hive nearby, then replace the frames. This is a good method to stop the colony from
swarming.
The Queen Excluder is either a thin sheet of either steel or plastic with slots or holes cut in it.
The holes are big enough to allow a female bee through but too small to allow the slightly larger
queen or drone through. This then allows additional chambers or supers to be placed above which
will only be filled with honey as the queen is kept from laying in this area.
The Super is the box of smaller frames for the bees to store excess honey, which the bee keeper
will remove when its capped over and is ready to be extracted. When the weather has been
favourable bee keepers will stack 2,3 or even 4 supers on top of the brood box and queen excluder.
The supers are removed at the end of the season to reduce the total space of the hive to just the
brood box to help the bees keep warm.
Crown Boards is a flat sheet of wood with a hole in the centre and are used primarily as a cover
on top of the brood chamber. The board creates a barrier to separate the different chambers of the
hive and can be fitted with a bee escape or used to support a feeder.
The Roof some hives have either a plain felt or a metal sheet covered roof, they are a good weight
to stop them being blown off in strong winds and help to trap the warmth in the brood box for winter
time.
Hive Summary – Conversions to metric only shown on this table.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Brood Frames
(Brood Frame size)
National
18 1/8” x 18 1/8”
460 mm x 460 mm
50000
Bottom
199 sq. in
25 lbs
11.36 Kgs
11
(14” x 8 1/2”)
356 mm x 216 mm
Deep National
18 1/8” x 18 1/8”
460 mm x 460 mm
70000
Bottom
292 sq. in
25 lbs
11.36 Kgs
11
(14” x 12”)
356 mm x 305 mm
Dartington
36 1/4” x 18 1/8”
920 mm x 460 mm
70000
Bottom
292 sq. in
NA
11
(14” x 12”)
356 mm x 305 mm
WBC
19 7/8” x 19 7/8”
505 mm x 505 mm
45000
Bottom
199 sq. in
25 lbs
11.36 Kgs
10
(14” x 8 1/2”)
356 mm x 216 mm
Commercial
18 5/16” x 18 5/16”
465 mm x 465 mm
70500
Bottom
275 sq. in
25 lbs
11.36 Kgs
11
(16” x 10”)
407 mm x 254 mm
Langstroth
20” x 16 1/4”
508 mm x 413 mm
61400
Top
272 sq. in
30 lbs
13.64 Kgs
10
(17 5/8” x 9 1/2”)
448 mm x 241 mm
Smith
16 3/8” x 18 1/4”
416 mm x 463 mm
50000
Top
199 sq. in
25 lbs
11.36 Kgs
11
(14” x 8 1/2”)
356 mm x 216 mm
Top Bar
36 to 48” x 16 to 19”
914mm to 1219 mm
x
407 mm to 482 mm
Varies
Bottom
Varies
NA
NA
(varies per hive)
Rose
18 1/8” x 18 1/8”
460mm x 460mm
35000
Bottom
175 sq. in
30 lbs
13.64 Kgs
11
(national frame
cut down)
Dadant
&
Langstroth
Jumbo
20” x 16 1/4”
508 mm x 413 mm
85000
Top
340 sq. in
40 lbs
18.18 Kgs
11
(17 5/8” x 11 1/4”)
448 mm x 286 mm
Hives
The National Hive
1920's
The National Hive is the most popular hive in the UK because of this it
makes life easier for bee keepers to buy colonies on frames or
exchange equipment with other bee keepers. Although some Bee
Keepers think the national brood box is too small for a prolific queen.
The supers are the smallest of all hives and so the weight of a full
super is the lightest of all hives
Frames
The standard brood body is 8 7/8” deep and takes 11 frames. The most popular brood frames are the
DN4 and the DN5. Both have the Hoffman side bars, which means the side bar is wider at the top and
narrows towards the bottom. The DN5 has a wider and stronger top bar than the DN4.
These frames are favoured because they are self-spacing and do not require any extra equipment to
keep them the correct distances apart. The bevelled edges at the top of the side bar allow the bee
keeper to see clearly when pushing the frames together to help avoid any bee's getting trapped and
killed between the frames. Additionally there is a smaller contact surface area between the frames for
the bees to glue together with propolis.
A complete hive comprises: standard floor, brood body with eleven brood frames, a queen excluder, a
super with ten super frames, a crown board and a metal sheet metal covered 4" roof.
Most National hives are made from Cedar, which do not require any preservatives as cedar has its own
"camphor" type preserving oils. This natural oil protects it from the weather and discourages insects.
Cedar wood is an ideal timber for hives in the British climate and will last over 15 years naturally so
there is no need to paint the hive as this would seal up the grain which will cause mould and
condensation problems on the inside.
How many frames in each box
11 Hoffman (self-spacing) frames in either a brood body or super. Although it is possible to fit in 12
frames, it is easier for manipulation to use 11 frames and a dummy board.
11 frames on narrow ends in the brood body
10 Manley frames in the super
9 or 10 frames on castellated spacers in the super
8 frames on wide ends in the super
Summary
This is an excellent hive for all bee keepers as it is a reasonable size, easy to manage and transport.
The colony size needs to be carefully monitored during the early spring as a strong colony build up or
if the queen has no-where to lay (honey bound) will lead to swarming problems early in the season.
The Deep National Hive
1946 revised in 1960
The Deep National Hive is becoming a very popular hive in the UK. Some Bee
Keepers have either modified their National hives into a Deep National or they have
bought a replacement Deep National brood body to allow for the prolific queens. The
supers are the smallest of all hives and so the weight of a full super is the lightest of
all hives. The Deep National hive is the same size as the National hive apart from the
depth of the brood chamber which allows for deeper frames to be used. The 14”x12”
frame greatly increases the total number of cells per frame for the queen to lay in
and also for the colony to store greater amounts of pollen and nectar in.
Frames for the deep national hive are called 14” x 12” frames.
The frames for super are the same as in the National hive.
I modified the above National hive with a home made 90mm eke to allow the use of
14” x 12” frames in the brood chamber.
Summary
This is an excellent hive for all bee keepers as it is a good size, easy to manage and
transport. Once modified to fit the 14” x 12” frames the colony during the spring
build up has more space to expand into which will delay a colony from swarming very
early into the season and it is very unlikely the queen will become honey bound.
National & Deep National
Since these hives are now the most common in the UK for their ease of transferring equipment
between bee keepers and the fact commercial sellers of nuc's, packages and queens now also use this
hive as it has simplified many of the problems bee keepers face.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Brood Frames
(Brood Frame size)
National
18 1/8” x 18 1/8”
50000
Bottom
199 sq. in
25lbs
11
(14” x 8 1/2”)
Deep National
18 1/8” x 18 1/8”
70000
Bottom
292 sq. in
25lbs
11
(14” x 12”)
With a prolific queen who can lay between 2000 and 3000 eggs a day the number of free cells in the
National brood chamber is considered to be too small, careful attention is required during the spring
time to avoid the colony swarming. The Deep National is considered an almost perfect sized hive and
the 70000 cells should be more than enough space to prevent early swarms.
Even when a standard national sized
frame is used within a deep national
chamber the bees will make good use
of the space and will build fresh comb
downwards from the bottom bar.
Commonly the cells are made slightly
larger for drone brood as the bees are
not forced to follow the embossed
pattern on a sheet of foundation.
Circled in red are normal worker cells the other
cells around these are larger and will be used for
the drone brood.
This then saves the colony from
having to modify their existing worker
cells for this propose, this is also is an
advantage for the bee keeper to assist
in dealing with the Varroa mite as the
added comb can be cut off the frame
and removed from the hive as it is
likely to contain the highest levels of the Varroa due to the drone bee taking on average 24 days from
egg to male bee. Tens to hundreds of Varroa are removed in one go without the need for toxic
chemicals, Its a win win for bee and bee keeper.
Another feature many bee keepers like about the National hive is the entrance block which can be
turned 90 degrees to give a different entrance size, or during the main honey flow removed. Although
you may well read some conflicting advice it is generally recommended a small entrance size is kept in
place if a mesh floor is used throughout the season and only increased for a few weeks a year during
the honey flow.
During the winter time when we tend to suffer higher wind speeds and driving rain and the treat of
woodpeckers it is worth securing the hive with a cargo strap and cover the hive with a wire mesh like
chicken wire or pin plastic bags on all four sides making sure the entrance is kept clear.
Top Bar Hives
Design advantages compared to a 'normal beehive'
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less heat loss thus less disturbance to the bees during inspection
the whole colony is allowed to free range through the hive
fully adjustable in size to suit the time of year and colony size
only 1 hive needed, even when 'splitting' (with this design of TB)
no lifting of heavy boxes
bees build their own natural comb to the sizes they require
no need to buy frames or wax foundation
no extra hive equipment needed
floor design enables easy Varroa monitoring and ventilation adjustments by the bees
How does it work? The same principles of bee keeping apply to this as any other hive though there
is less equipment needed because it is horizontal and is therefore a simpler system. Colonies are
inspected in the same way, assessing their needs for space and food, health and swarm checks.
No frames or foundation? The top bars have special wax covered comb guides that encourage the
building of a straight comb. The combs can be removed and handled almost the same way as a frame.
No queen excluder? The capacity of this 4 ft hive with 26 bars is about the same as 3 National
boxes. The brood nest is established at the front and honey is stored at the back (just as it is in
nature). Queens will only lay in the brood nest area, not randomly all over the place, so all the colony
is allowed to be 'free range'. This allows the full spread of queen pheromones (including her footprint
pheromone) throughout the hive, reducing swarm and supersedure impulse. It also means that adult
drones do not clog the brood nest as they would in a National with a queen excluder. More importantly
is that the bees are allowed to fully exhibit their natural behaviour without hindrance.
How are bees put in? This hive can be populated with a natural swarm, artificial swarm, shook
swarm or 'package' (that already has a viable queen) as these will naturally 'want' to make comb.
Combs from National frames can also be transplanted onto bars by a 'cut and twine' method. Combs
are cut from frames (use the dummy end board as a template) and laid next to a top bar. Twine, for
example, is then tied to the bar and wound and around the comb and tied again. The comb is only
cradled by the twine but within days the bees will have attached the combs to the bar and then the
twine can be removed.
How to feed? It is however important to feed the new colony to assist them in building new combs
quickly so the queen can start to lay and pollen and nectar can be stored. Most bee keepers will add
an internal feeder for the first few weeks which the bees will use to build lots of new combs.
How to harvest? Honey combs are taken from the hive (and replaced with empty bars) throughout
the year, when they are surplus to the needs of the colony. This allows the bees to always be able to
make wax and build comb (as they are more likely to swarm when they can't). It also helps prevents
any chances of accumulating diseases on old comb as each comb is removed within 1-2 years. Honey
is best eaten in the comb and best stored in the comb. Freeze any surplus. However separating the
honey and wax is simply done by mashing the comb and allowing it to drain through a coarse strainer
overnight.
How to control swarming? The same standard artificial swarm techniques are used. Instead of
using a second hive though, this type of hive simply uses the space at the back and the dummy end
board to split the colony and a rear entrance is opened. Less equipment to store, less hassle.
What are they? Top Bar hives are not a new idea, their use pre-dates all 'frame' hives (like the
National hive invented in the 19th and 20th centuries) by millennia. Bar hives in various forms are still
used by many bee keepers around the world today. Although many conventional bee keepers may
frown at their use for various reasons, but this type of hive is the closest match to a feral colony in a
tree truck in the wild.
'Frame' hives like the National and their frames and wax foundation are all 'Victorian' inventions solely
based on maximising yields and the economics of large scale commercial production of honey. The
Top Bar hive is not. TBH's are one step away from a feral colony found in the wild.
Wax foundation (made with wax from who knows where) is embossed with a uniform cell size (some
'Victorian' thought that larger cell size means larger bees and larger honey yield, and it is still made
this way today). Both the cell size and the uniformity are different to what the bees do in nature. It is
interesting that one method of bee communication is vibrating the cell rims of the comb like a guitar
string. Wooden frames dampen and inhibit this natural communication. The Top Bar hive allows the
bees to build their own comb to their own natural specifications.
I intend to start a colony in a TBH in 2010, and would be glad to show this hive to any one who is
interested, but I would strongly recommend a new bee keeper learn as much as you can first with a
conventional hive. It is also worth noting this hive does not produce a large volume of honey in one
go like conventional hives with a super. So if you want lots of honey this may not be the right hive for
you.
Disadvantages compared to a 'normal beehive'
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The combs are only held from above so they are considered fragile
Reduced amounts of honey as the bees make fresh comb
Fewer Bee keepers use this type of hive so expert advice limited
Top Bars hives tend to be made in different sizes so equipment tends to be bespoke
Construction top bar hives can be made from almost any suitable weather proof container from
flower pot planters to recycled barrels and thus the whole hive can cost as little as a few pounds.
I have made a few over the last year of different designs.
This was the first of the top bar hives I made. It was far to
big unless the colony was very strong they would have had
problems generating enough heat to keep the internal
temperatures stable. This hive has now been recycled and
used to make the base of the Dartington long hive I made.
This next hive design was a copy of a hive I saw when
the association went to visit Tony Herbert near Salisbury. I
have since modified the folding doors by adding another
layer of wood but this has caused the doors to warp, so I
will need to rethink and redesign the doors. I also made a
super to fit this hive which can also be used to hold a
feeder under the roof and hopefully the colony will use
the frames in this super to store any excess honey.
This excellent TBH was designed by Phil Chandler of
www.biobees.com and although it looks very small it is in
fact four feet long and has a greater volume than a national
hive. This will make an ideal hive to raise queens and make
splits from a colony. The design is very simple and uses
follower boards to divide the hive into different sizes
depending on what is required. Several different entrance
holes can be used when a colony has been split or when
raising a new queen.
This hive is based on a similar 36” long design by
www.backyardhive.com the chamber in this hive is
much bigger than the hive above and also has an
viewing window with a removable cover to allow the
bee keeper to quickly peer inside without removing
the roof. This design also uses a follower board but
only to keep the chamber slightly bigger than the
colony needs at the time to help converse the heat,
but it is not capable of holding two colonies like the
hive above. Once a colony has had time to build up
this hive could hold a colony of over 90,000 bees
and still have plenty of space.
Dartington
Long deep hive 1975
This is my home made version of the Dartington Long Hive, accentually this hive is a double length
Deep National hive, although the brood chamber can be divided in half if two colonies need to share.
The Dartington Hive is not a common type of hive in the UK as once it is in place it is far to
cumbersome to move with a colony in it. Robin Dartington describes this hive as a break-away from
the conventional approach to bee keeping. Focusing instead on understanding the life urges in the
colony, centred on the queen, rather than the mechanical colony behaviour. His book New Bee keeping
in a long deep hive (pub. 1985) Is an excellent guide to the management of this type of hive although
the principles for each season are the same as a standard hive, until the colony is preparing to swarm
when the owner just needs to make a few simple adjustments to satisfy the colonies needs without
needing to have on-hand a whole new hive and a complete set of hive equipment ready.
In recent years the Dartington concept has taken a twist and they are now being aimed more at the
urban bee keeper by www.omlet.co.uk although omlet charge about 10 times more than what it cost
me to build my Dartington long hive, and no doubt this hive will last many years longer.
As you can see from the picture
this hive contains all the same
parts of most other hives.
WBC
1890
Named after the inventor, William Broughton Carr, the WBC has become
an iconic and highly recognisable beehive design. It is based on the
same principles as the Cheshire and Cowan but with an extra outer wall.
This provides the bees with additional insulation and quickly became
popular for its looks. However, it was rarely used commercially because
it was complex and costly to make and also inconvenient to use as the
outer covers had to be removed each time for inspection.
William Broughton Carr was a man of many talents and during his time he introduced the metal ends
used for spacing frames and also the shallow frame size which is by far the most used frame in supers
still today.
The WBC hive is still the iconic symbol of British bee keeping and is widely used throughout the UK
and makes a lovely feature in any ones garden who wishes to keep a small number of these hives.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
WBC
19 7/8” x 19 7/8”
45000
Bottom
199 sq. in
25lbs
10
(14” x 8 1/2”)
With a prolific queen who can lay between 2000 and 3000 eggs a day the number of free cells in the
brood chamber is considered to be too small, careful attention is required during the spring time to
avoid the colony swarming.
Smith
This hive was named after Mr W Smith of Innerleithen, Peebles, Scotland who designed it with
Scottish weather conditions in mind, it is based on the American Langstroth design but kept to the
basic concept of 11 or 12 British standard frames. Its box shape construction was kept simple
compared to the National and the frames used have short lugs which rest on a rebate cut into the top
of each box. National frames can be used in this hive although the end lugs will need to be cut down
to fit.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
Smith
16 3/8” x 18 1/4”
50000
Top
199 sq. in
25lbs
11
(14” x 8 1/2”)
With a prolific queen who can lay between 2000 and 3000 eggs a day the number of free cells in the
brood chamber is considered to be too small, careful attention is required during the spring time to
avoid the colony swarming, although many Smith hive owners turned to using a brood and half box to
get round this issue although this practice solves some problems it does take longer to manage then
from this many Smith Hive owners then progressed on to Deep 14” x 12” frames.
Commercial
Commercial hives are exactly the same external dimensions as a National hive, but instead of having a
rebate the hive is a simple cuboid. Because of this the frames are larger and have shorter handles or
lugs. The brood box is picked up using small hand holds cut into the external wall of the hive. Supers
have this same feature, which can make them difficult to hold when full of honey. Some bee keepers
therefore use National supers on top of a Commercial brood box.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
Commercial
18 5/16” x 18 5/16”
70500
Bottom
275 sq. in
25lbs
11
(16” x 10”)
The Commercial is considered a good sized hive and the number of free cells should be more than
enough space to prevent early swarms.
Modified Dadant
1917
Similar in construction and design to the Langstroth the Dadant hive was introduced
in 1917 by Dadant & Sons, the American manufactures of bee keeping equipment.
Charles Dadant favoured the large brood chamber, deeper frames with a slightly
wider spacing. The modified Dadant hive is one of the biggest hives in use today with
a brood area of almost 4000 sq ins which makes it very popular with commercial bee
keepers.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
Dadant
20” x 16 1/4”
85000
Top
340 sq. in
40lbs
11
(17 5/8” x 11 1/4”)
Frames sizes.
Top Bars – 19” long
Bottom bars – 17 9/16” long
Deep side bars – 11 ¼” long
Shallow side bars – 6 ¼” long
Brother Adam used this type of hive and noted in his book Bee keeping at Buckfast
Abbey (1974) that the three hives Modified Dadant, British Commercial and the
Langstroth Jumbo had starling results compared to British Standard sized hives and
others with double brood boxes. The larger hives produced approximately double the
surplus honey than standard sized hives, and thus he changed all the hives over to
Dadant's.
A MD brood chamber can store over 70 lbs and a super approx 43 lb which is perfect
for those who wish to encourage a large colony and in return be rewarded in a good
season with plenty of honey, but they are not suitable unless you are comfortable
with lifting these sorts of weights.
Langstroth
1850
Named for their inventor, Rev. Lorenzo Langstroth, these hives are not the only hives of this style, but
they are the most common. Langstroth patented his design in 1860 and it has become the standard
style hive for 75% of the world's bee keepers. This class of hives includes other styles, which differ
mainly in the size and number of frames used. These include Smith, Segeberger Beute (German),
Frankenbeute (German), Normalmass (German), Langstroth hive, Modified Commercial and Modified
Dadant, plus regional variations such as the British Modified National Hive.
Langstroth hives make use of bee space, a characteristic of Western honey bees which causes them to
propolize small spaces (less than ¼ inch), gluing wooden parts together, and to fill larger spaces
(more than about 3/8 inch) with wax comb, but to hold an intermediate space open for bees to pass
through. His cleverly designed hive makes use of bee space so that frames are neither glued together
nor filled with burr comb - comb joining adjacent frames.
Langstroth hives use standardized sizes of hive bodies (rectangular boxes without tops or bottoms
placed one on top of another) and frames to ensure that parts are interchangeable and that the
frames will remain relatively easy to remove, inspect, and replace without killing the bees. Langstroth
hive bodies are rectangular wooden or styrofoam boxes that can be stacked to expand the usable
space for the bees. Inside the boxes, frames are hung in parallel. The minimum size of the hive is
dependent on outside air temperature and potential food sources in the winter months. The colder the
winter, the larger the winter cluster and food stores need to be. In the regions with severe winter
weather, a basketball-shaped cluster typically survives in a "double-deep" box.
Ten frames side-to-side will fill the hive body and leave the right amount of bee space between each
frame and between the end frames and the hive body. Langstroth frames are often reinforced with
wire, making it possible to extract honey in centrifuges to spin the honey out of the comb. As a result,
the empty frames and comb can be returned to the beehive for use in the next season.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
Langstroth
20” x 16 1/4”
61400
Top
272 sq. in
30lbs
10
(17 5/8” x 9 1/2”)
Langstroth Jumbo
1905
This modified Langstroth hive was introduced in 1905 by A. N. Draper in the USA. It
uses a brood box deeper by 2 3/16” than a standard Langstroth. In 1968 E. J.
Tredwell at Sparsholt College began to advise students to adopt this hive and this
practice was continued by Mr John Cossburn who taught Mike Holloway of our
association.
Hive Type
Dimensions
Brood
Chamber
cells
Bee Space
Brood Comb area
of both sides
Full Super Weight
(Approx)
No of Frames in the
Brood Chamber
(Brood Frame size)
Langstroth
20” x 16 1/4”
61400
Top
272 sq. in
30lbs
10
(17 5/8” x 9 1/2”)
Langstroth
Jumbo
20” x 16 1/4”
85000
Top
340 sq. in
40lbs
11
(17 5/8” x 11 1/4”)
Due to its large brood frames the queen always has plenty of space to lay even
during the spring build up when the colony is rapidly expanding. The Hive is treated
the same as a regular hive throughout the season, although one or two frames can
be replaced with dummy boards to reduce the chamber size for winter time or if the
queen is not a prolific egg layer.
Some would argue this hive is to large and would say its not suitable for all bee
keepers as its weight makes it to cumbersome to move, but for those keepers who
want to move their bees once or twice a season to maximise honey production the
colony needs to be strong with a good ratio of foraging bees to young bees.
Langstroth
Langstroth Jumbo
Warré Hive
(?-1951)
Responding to the obvious decline in bee keeping in
France since his youth, Warré experimented with some
350 hives of various designs with the aim of producing a
hive that was simple, economical, bee-friendly and
assured a surplus for the bee keeper. The result was his
People's Hive (Ruche Populaire) whose construction and
operation he described in his book Beekeeping For All
(L' Apiculture Pour Tous, 12th edition).
Warré's hive comprises tiers of identical boxes fitted with
top-bars, but no frames. Its essential design and usage
features can be summarised as follows:
hive-body box internal dimensions 300 x 300 x
210 mm, with projecting handles,
• eight 36mm centred 24mm wide top-bars resting
in rebates in each box (NO FRAMES),
• wax starter strips under each top bar (NO
FOUNDATION),
• flat floor, notched with a 120mm wide entrance,
alighting board,
• coarse weave cloth covering the top-bars of the
top box,
100 mm high 'quilt' boxed with wood and filled with straw, sawdust, wood shavings etc.,
retained with a cloth,
gabled roof containing a ventilated 'loft' and separated from the quilt by a mouse-proof board,
the bees build natural comb in the first (top) box and extend downwards into further boxes,
new boxes are added at the bottom,
one or more boxes of honey are harvested from the top after the main flow,
the bees winter on two boxes of comb containing a minimum of 12 kg stores (France),
honey is harvested by draining, or by centrifuging combs in baskets,
at the spring visit, the hive is expanded by one or more boxes, containing with starter strips or
comb.
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A very important feature of Warré's method is that the hive is opened in the strict sense only once a
year, namely at harvest. In spring the addition of boxes underneath does not necessitate a hive
opening in the sense that the heat is let out. The importance of the retention of nest scent and heat
for bee health and productivity was discussed by Johann Thür in his book Beekeeping: natural, simple
and ecological (1946) which also discusses Abbé Christ's (1739-1813) hive that is almost identical in
concept to Warré's.
No frames
Even in early editions of Bee keeping For All, Warré advised against using frames as shown in the 5th
edition:
'Nowadays, I recommend without hesitation the People's Hive with fixed combs, even for very large
enterprises. [...] However, out of respect for the freedom of my readers, I will describe the People's
Hive in its three forms: fixed comb, ordinary frames, open frames with closed ends.
This web site is premised on the 12th edition of Bee keeping For All which describes the top-bar
version of his hive only. But, for the sake of completeness, we provide a translation of the pages of the
5th edition describing the two versions of his hive with frames, the latter having no bottom-bars.
Present day bee keeping with the Warré hive
The geographical focus of Warré bee keeping is France and the hive was also initially used in Belgium
and Switzerland. The first in use in Germany and Russia were populated in 2006. An experiment was
started with six modified www.mygarden.ws/ModifiedAbbeWarreHive.htm In 2008, bee keepers in
Canada, USA (including Alaska) and Spain made Warré hives in readiness for spring 2008. By late
2009, Warré bee keepers were also known in Australia, Austria, Brazil, Croatia, Estonia, Italy, Japan,
Latvia, New Zealand, Poland, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Sweden and Uruguay.
There is Warré bee keeping thread in the forum at Top Bar Bee keeping with the Barefoot Bee keeper
(www.biobees.com/forum/).
Technical drawings for constructing an authentic Warré hive http://www.selbstversorgerforum.de/bienen/bilder/Emile_Warre_Technische_Zeichnungen_engl.pdf
Complete newcomer to bee keeping? Please read the page of advice on -
http://warre.biobees.com/beginner.htm
Summary
If you want to manage your colony and preform
inspections and create splits and prevent swarming this
type of hive is not for you. Although its principles and
design are some thing to be admired.
I would recommend reading the English translation of his
book although at times it can become a little confusing
but never the less it is aimed more at the purist type of
bee keeper who wants to be hands off and allow the
colony to look after themselves from year to year, even if
the colony builds up and divides by swarming. The
principle behind this is to catch the swarm and house
them in another hive or use a bait hive to attract the
swarm.
Left - Marc Gatineau's transparent Warré hive on to its
third box. From http://www.apiculturegatineau.fr
If you saw this hive at a show I would bet it would be the
main attraction in the bee and honey tent, although being
made out of acrylic or perspex it would need to be kept in
the shade and covered when not on display most of the
time. Despite the downsides of needing either a hoist or
three people to help manage the hive when a new box is
added, the purist side of me would love to build this hive.
Rose
One-size-Box-Hives
Rose Hives simply have one box size and one frame
size, each box measures 460mm x 460mm x 190mm
deep which is the same as a National box but shallower.
This allows the bee keeper to interchange any box or
any frame in any hive. One minor draw-back is the
weight of one of these boxes when full of honey will be
30-35 lbs which is difficult to manage for some
keepers.
There is a pdf file on his website which explains how to
manage this hive but I will give you a quick summary.
The management of this type of hive is simple, over
winter the bees are contained in two boxes, early into
the season the first two boxes are swapped around
when the brood nest starts to expand then a third box
is added in-between the first two boxes and then
another box is added again if required up to around
June time.
During the season the bee keeper just adds
another box on top of the bottom box when
required until the end of the season. The
bee keeper then takes all but the bottom
two boxes away for extraction and the bees
are left to build up for winter.
There is no need for a queen excluder as
the upper boxes will be clear of brood and
by the end of the season the top boxes will
hopefully be filled with capped honey.
This method encourages and needs a very
large colony to maximise the comb building
and the numbers of flying bees to bring in
large amounts of nectar and pollen
throughout the year.
I like this idea but this type of hive would not be suitable for everyone because of the heavy lifting
required. The Rose box is sold at Thorne's for only £10 a box although you would need to buy National
frames (DN4 or DN5) and shorten them.
His website is www.rosebeehives.com
In the picture above one hive has nine boxes the other eight they could hold 7x30=210lbs of honey
and 6x30=180lbs of honey if they hold approx 30lbs each. Not counting the bottom two winter boxes.
Which hive is the right one for me?
There is no right answer to this question as you may be given or buy a hive before you know about
the other types, you may even read about one hive and it will change your mind. What I hope I have
done here is list some of the main types of hives you may see or hear about when talking with other
bee keepers or surfing the net.
Consider the following.
Do I want a large colony and hopefully lots of honey
Am I capable of lifting this hive if it needs to be moved
Are spares and replacement parts easy to obtain for the hive
Do other local bee keepers use the same equipment in case of a problem
Design or functionality, beauty or beast
Cheap or expensive
Storage space for additional equipment
Plus no doubt a few more that I haven't listed, but before you spend lots of money have an idea how
much you are willing to spend and remember the additional cost of frames, foundation, feeders,
smokers, hive tools and protective gear on top. Bee Keeping doesn't have to be expensive or time
consuming unless you want it to be. There is no one method or answer that will suit every one. If your
bees are given a fair chance they will hopefully reward you with a small amount of honey. Sooner or
later how ever you will have problems, every association will have members who are willing to assist
you if you have a problem, most of which are more than happy to answer an email or chat on the
phone and some will be happy to visit your hive and advise you first hand.
Don't be afraid to ask for help as far too many bee keepers give up after one bad season.
Despite all the advice and help how ever there still remains many problems in the world of bee's. The
answer so far as been increase the dosage or potency of the treatments which doesn't solve the
problems as they still remain years after they were first discovered and in some cases the true causes
of the some of these problems still remains unknown. Varroa, colony collapse disorder and absconding
colonies are the worst of these for any bee keeper. There has to be an answer so don't be afraid to try
some thing new and if you see a positive result let others know on the various forums like
http://www.biobees.com/forum/
As a bee keeper it is vital we all do our part to learn as much as you can, ask the tough questions of
our elected bodies, urge them to be open with what they are doing to try and solve these problems
for us and our colonies and do your part by checking your colonies are free from disease and Varroa
levels are kept low through out the season and then finally let the bees do what they do best.
I have tried to be as unbiased as I can when putting this together despite all the problems the humble
honey bee faces, as their keepers we owe it to them to do all we can as we take away their hard work
each year.
Mike Alsop
Admin@fdbka.co.uk
The information given is from several different sources.
A Case of Hives by Len Heath
http://www.wikipedia.org
http://biobees.com
http://www.thorne.co.uk
Plus a few other sites
Nov/Dec 2009