Tidally averaged circulation in Puget Sound sub-basins
Transcription
Tidally averaged circulation in Puget Sound sub-basins
Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/ecss Tidally averaged circulation in Puget Sound sub-basins: Comparison of historical data, analytical model, and numerical model Tarang Khangaonkar a, *, Zhaoqing Yang a, Taeyun Kim a, Mindy Roberts b a b Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, Marine Sciences Division, 1100 Dexter Avenue North, Suite 400, Seattle, WA 98109, USA Washington State Department of Ecology, PO Box 47600, Olympia, WA 98504-7600, USA a r t i c l e i n f o a b s t r a c t Article history: Received 25 September 2010 Accepted 25 April 2011 Available online 10 May 2011 Through extensive field data collection and analysis efforts conducted since the 1950s, researchers have established an understanding of the characteristic features of circulation in Puget Sound. The pattern ranges from the classic fjordal behavior in some basins, with shallow brackish outflow and compensating inflow immediately below, to the typical two-layer flow observed in many partially mixed estuaries with saline inflow at depth. An attempt at reproducing this behavior by fitting an analytical formulation to past data is presented, followed by the application of a three-dimensional circulation and transport numerical model. The analytical treatment helped identify key physical processes and parameters, but quickly reconfirmed that response is complex and would require site-specific parameterization to include effects of sills and interconnected basins. The numerical model of Puget Sound, developed using unstructured-grid finite volume method, allowed resolution of the sub-basin geometric features, including presence of major islands, and site-specific strong advective vertical mixing created by bathymetry and multiple sills. The model was calibrated using available recent short-term oceanographic time series data sets from different parts of the Puget Sound basin. The results are compared against 1) recent velocity and salinity data collected in Puget Sound from 2006 and 2) a composite data set from previously analyzed historical records, mostly from the 1970s. The results highlight the ability of the model to reproduce velocity and salinity profile characteristics, their variations among Puget Sound subbasins, and tidally averaged circulation. Sensitivity of residual circulation to variations in freshwater inflow and resulting salinity gradient in fjordal sub-basins of Puget Sound is examined. Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. Keywords: modeling fjords partially mixed estuaries analytical solution 3-D hydrodynamic model unstructured grid Puget Sound FVCOM 1. Introduction Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and Georgia Strait, recently defined as the Salish Sea, compose a large and complex estuarine system in the Pacific Northwest portion of the United States (U.S.) and adjacent Canadian waters. Pacific tides propagate from the west into the system via the Strait of Juan de Fuca around the San Juan Islands, north into Canadian waters through the Georgia Strait. Propagation of tides into Puget Sound occurs primarily through Admiralty Inlet (see Fig. 1(a)). This is a glacially carved fjordal estuarine system with many narrow long and relatively deep interconnected basins. The freshwater discharged by 19 gaged rivers including those in Puget Sound, the inflows to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the freshwater discharge from the * Corresponding author. Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, Marine Sciences Division, 1100 Dexter Avenue North, Suite 400, Seattle, WA 98109, USA. E-mail address: tarang.khangaonkar@pnnl.gov (T. Khangaonkar). 0272-7714/$ e see front matter Ó 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved. doi:10.1016/j.ecss.2011.04.016 Fraser River in Canadian waters, and substantial regional runoff help create stratified two-layer conditions where the tidally averaged circulation consists of outflow mixed brackish water in the surface layer and inflow of saline water through the lower layers. Much of our present understanding of tidally averaged circulation in Puget Sound is based on analysis and interpretation of considerable data collected since the 1950s and insights gained from the application of a physical scale model of Puget Sound at the University of Washington (Rattray and Lincoln, 1955). The historical records of moored current meter and salinity profile observations are extensive and date back to 1930. Cox et al. (1981) tabulated known current observations, including periods of intensive monitoring from 1951 to 1956 and in the 1970s and 1980s. Ebbesmeyer et al. (1984) and Cox et al. (1984) provided a synthesis and interpretation of these current measurements in Puget Sound. Using this information, Ebbesmeyer and Barnes (1980) developed a conceptual model of Puget Sound which describes circulation in the main basin of Puget Sound as that in a fjord with deep sills (landward sill 306 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 Fig. 1. (a) Oceanographic regions of Puget Sound and the Northwest Straits (Salish sea) including the inner sub-basinsdHood Canal, Whidbey Basin, Central Basin, and South Sound. (b) Intermediate scale FVCOM grid along with composite current and salinity profile stations from Cokelet et al. (1990). zone at Tacoma Narrows and a seaward sill zone at Admiralty Inlet) defining a large basin, outflow through the surface layers, and inflow at depth. Analysis of long-term current meter records by Cannon (1983) showed a departure from the classic fjordal signatures seen in Hood Canal and Saratoga Passage to one where depth of zero flow (where tidally averaged velocity crosses zero between outgoing surface layer and inflowing deeper layer) was deeper in the water column in the main basindabout 25% of depth, lower than conventional fjords (10e15%) in the main basin. The depth of peak inflow varied from near 50e75% of depthddeeper than classic fjords, but higher in the water column than typical shallow estuaries. This behavior may be recognized as a transition between a fjord and partially mixed estuary and is a characteristic feature of Puget Sound circulation. Nutrient pollution is considered a potential threat to the ecological health of Puget Sound. There is considerable interest in understanding the hydrodynamics and the effect of nutrient loads entering Puget Sound and, given climate change and sea-level rise possibilities, how this balance may be altered in the future. This concern is not new. Recognizing that pollutant build-up problems and climatic changes are longstanding and require long-term application of models, Cokelet et al. (1990) developed a numerical model consisting of a branched system of two-layered reaches separated by exchange zones to calculate refluxing, salinity concentrations time series, and annual volume transports in nine sub-basins of Puget Sound. The technique used estimates of annual freshwater runoff and composite profiles of long-term mean currents and salinity profiles from historic measurements in nine reaches to specify conservative mass transports for the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Puget Sound domain. A similar branched system, consisting of seven, two-layered boxes (Box Model of Puget Sound) was developed by Babson et al. (2006) based on the work by Li et al. (1999). The basin characteristics, such as depth of zero flow to determine the thickness of boxes representing specific basins, were adopted from the composite information of Puget Sound developed by Cokelet et al. (1990). A key simplification in these and prior Puget Sound box models, including those by Friebertshauser and Duxbury (1972) and Hamilton et al. (1985), is the fixed and constant surface and bottom layer depth in each basin. Only a limited number of hydrodynamic modeling studies exist that cover the entire Puget Sound, including a laterally averaged, vertical two-dimensional model used to study density intrusion into Puget Sound (Lavelle et al., 1991), and a three-dimensional (3-D), structured grid model developed using Princeton Ocean Model (POM) code to study the variability of currents with a focus on complexities of the triple junction site at the confluence of Admiralty Inlet, Possession Sound and the Main (or Central) Basin of Puget Sound (Nairn and Kawase, 2002). Water quality in Puget Sound, as indicated by conventional parameters such as dissolved oxygen, nutrients (nitrate þ nitriteenitrogen (NO3 þ NO2) and phosphateephosphorus (PO4)), algae, and fecal coliform bacteria, is generally considered to be good. However, there are several specific locations where water quality appears reduced due to low dissolved oxygen and fecal coliform bacteria contamination. The areas with lowest dissolved oxygen levels include southern Hood Canal, Budd Inlet, Penn Cove, Commencement Bay, Elliott Bay, Possession Sound, Saratoga Passage, and Sinclair Inlet. Historical observations of primary production suggest that phytoplankton growth in Puget Sound is closely coupled to the circulation characteristics. This was demonstrated through the early work by T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 Winter et al. (1975). Subsequent studies and review of historic data show that although spring and summer blooms occur regularly, the potential for eutrophication impacts in the main basin is mitigated by the presence of strong residual circulation and water renewal from freshwater discharges and inflow of water from the Pacific Ocean. However, poorly flushed inner basins and shallow embayments, particularly in the southern end, show depleted surface nitrate concentrations during the summer and very low oxygen concentrations at depth (Harrison et al., 1994; Newton and Van Voorhis, 2002). Therefore to correctly simulate nutrient, algae and dissolved oxygen balance for water quality management in Puget Sound, the ability to reproduce observed characteristics of tidally averaged circulation including bottom water renewal and surface water flushing is essential. In this paper, we first present an analytical approach to describe tidally averaged current and salinity profiles in Puget Sound and examine whether inter-basin variability can be captured through variation in principle physical quantities, such as inflow, water depth, and salinity gradient. We then present a numerical approach based on an advanced 3-D baroclinic model of Puget Sound, including the Salish Sea reaches in U.S. and Canadian waters, that was previously developed (Khangaonkar and Yang, 2011; Yang and Khangaonkar, 2010). A computationally efficient, intermediate scale version of the model suitable for multi-year simulations was adopted for this investigation and calibrated using data from 2006. Quantitative model skill analysis is also presented in the form of error statistics at available representative stations around Puget Sound. A year-long application of the model was then used to generate tidally averaged current and salinity distributions and compared to composite current and salinity profiles developed by Cokelet et al. (1990) from historical data. The comparison demonstrates the ability of the model to reproduce tidally averaged circulation patterns and the ability to simulate inter-basin variability of mean currents and salinity profiles. The model was also used to evaluate the sensitivity of tidally averaged circulation, peak inflow, outflow, and surface-layer thickness to inflow and salinity gradient in one of the sub-basins (Saratoga Passage) of Puget Sound. Saratoga Passage was selected for this analysis. This basin is influenced by Skagit River discharge which is the largest freshwater discharge into Puget Sound. 2. Analytical formulation Prior analytical efforts to describe Puget Sound’s mean circulation using an analytical approach were conducted nearly four decades ago by Winter (1973) and Winter et al. (1975). They applied Rattray’s (1967) general fjord circulation theory to the main basin of Puget Sound and found approximate agreement in current magnitudes but shallower depth of zero flow. To obtain a solution in a closed form, we have adopted an analytical approach where a theoretical formulation previously used by Hansen and Rattray (1965), Dyer (1973), and MacCready (2004) for partially mixed estuaries based on a constant eddy viscosity assumption was expanded to incorporate an exponential variation with depth similar to the form used by Rattray (1967). Governing equations applicable to narrow, long fjordal estuaries are the continuity and Reynolds momentum equations in a vertical two-dimensional (xez) coordinate system, an equation of state relating salinity to density, and the hydrostatic assumption for pressure. Under steady-state conditions employing the Boussinesq approximation, the simplified governing equations with the origin located near the mouth of the estuary, the x direction pointed toward the open ocean boundary, and the z axis being positive upwards may be expressed as follows: 307 vu vw þ ¼ 0; vx vz (1) vu vu 1 vP v vu Km ; u þw ¼ þ r vx vz vx vz vz (2) P ¼ r$g$ðh zÞ: (3) Equations (1) and (2) are continuity and momentum equations in the x direction, assuming that the longitudinal momentum diffusion terms are small for long, narrow estuaries. Equation (3) is the hydrostatic pressure, where u(x,z) and w(x,z) are velocities (m/s) in the x and z directions, r is the density of water (kg/m3), h(x) is the free-surface elevation (m), and Km(z) is the vertical eddy viscosity coefficient (m2/s). For fjordal waters and partially mixed estuaries, the equation of state may be approximated by: r ¼ r0 $ð1 þ b$sÞ; (4) where s(x,z) is salinity in practical salinity units (ppt), and b z 7.7 104/ppt. The salt balance is given by the steady state advectionediffusion balance: vs vs v vs Ks ; u þw ¼ vx vz vz vz (5) where Ks(z) is the vertical eddy diffusion coefficient (m2/s). Starting from the early work done by Pritchard (1952, 1954, 1956), variations of these basic equations have been used by many researchers in the past to develop analytical solutions for coastal plain estuaries, well-mixed estuaries, partially mixed estuaries, and highly stratified fjordal estuaries (e.g., Hansen and Rattray, 1965; Rattray, 1967; Jay and Smith, 1990a,b; MacCready, 2004). We seek a formulation that would allow consideration of depthdependent Km(z) for application to fjordal conditions of the type observed in Puget Sound with a varying degree of vertical shear and mixing. Here, we introduce a non-dimensional depth variable z ¼ z=H, where H is the water depth, and an exponential variation of Km and Ks with depth, similar to the form used by Rattray (1967) is defined by: KmðzÞ ¼ Kmo$ea$z ; (6) KsðzÞ ¼ d$KmðzÞ ¼ d$Kmo$ea$z : (7) For narrow fjordal estuaries with a uniform cross section, the solutions for u(z) and s(z) are obtained by solving governing equations, assuming that the vertical velocity component w(x,z) is small and the longitudinal momentum term is negligible relative to the pressure gradient and the shear stress terms. The analytical solution in closed form is proved below and the detailed derivation is presented in Appendix A. The tidally averaged longitudinal velocity solution, also referred to here as the “variable Km solution,” is expressed by: ! U az z2 2z 2 C1 eaz $ðaz þ 1Þ þ C3; uðzÞ ¼ $e þ þ $ Kmo a a2 a3 Kmo a2 where vs vx U ¼ g$b$ $H3 ; (8) 308 D¼ I1 ¼ T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 C1 ¼ ea 1 ea $ð1 aÞ 1 2 ; I3 ¼ ea $D 3 ; ; I2 ¼ a a2 a J1 ¼ 1 2 2 2þ 3 ; a a a I3 2$I2 2$I1 þ 2 þ 3 a a a ; a$I2 þ I1 ; J2 ¼ a2 ¼ U u$Kmo $ðD$ea J1 Þ 2 ; ea $ð1 aÞ J2 aa U$D$ea 2$Kmo C3 C1 ea ð1 aÞ : $ Kmo a2 The variable Ks solution for the depth-varying component of salinity is exhibited by: Fig. 2. Comparison of predicted and observed velocity profiles at various stations in Puget Sound and the Straits (Data source: Cannon, 1983). T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 309 Table 1 Variation in input parameter valuesdanalytical model of Puget Sound. Basin name Physical properties Admiralty Inlet Shilshole Marina Puget Sound main basin Saratoga Passage s0 ðzÞ ¼ Width, W, (m) River inflow, Qr, (m3 s1) Surface eddy viscosity Kmo, (m2 s1) Depth-penetration factor, “a” Salinity gradient, vs=vx, (ppt m1) 100 200 190 82 5446 5900 6177 4166 1.347 241 289 475 10 105 10 105 10 105 10 105 0.001 3.3 6.0 17.0 1.03 107 9.62 108 3.13 107 4 105 ( U C1 e2az ð2az þ 5Þ $ e2az d$Kmo Kmo 2$Kmo 4a4 ! ! 2 1 z 2z 2 2 þ 5 ðaz þ 2ÞÞ þ þ a a2 2a 4a2 8a3 ) eaz ðaz þ 1Þ eaz D1 þ D2; ðC3 uÞ $ a a2 a where M1 ¼ 2a e2a 1 e $ð1 2aÞ 1 ; M2 ¼ ; 2a 4a2 M3 ¼ D1 ¼ Analytical model parameters Depth, H (m) a e2a d$Kmo 1 2a 4a2 2 þ 8a2 3 2 ; 8a3 3$U 2$C1 ; and þ Kmo,a4 Kmo$a3 D2 ¼ (9) a U C1 ð2aM2 þ 5M1 Þ þ $ $ 2$Kmo Kmo 4a4 1 M3 2M2 2M1 2 þ þ ðaM þ 2M Þ þ 2 1 a5 4a2 8a3 a2 2a ðaI þ I Þ I þ 1 D1: þðC3 uÞ $ 2 2 1 a a d$Kmo Salinity profiles are then computed using the definition: sðzÞ ¼ s0 ðzÞ þ s (where s0 ðzÞ and s are the depth-dependent and depth-averaged components of s and the assumption that at the seabed ðz ¼ 1Þ, salinity may be assumed equal to ocean salinity (i.e., sð1Þ ¼ socn ). Comparisons of measured currents in various parts of Puget Sound using varying magnitudes of the exponential decay coefficient “a” and Kmo values are shown in Fig. 2 and listed in Table 1. For calibration of the tidally averaged analytical model in Puget Sound, we have used previously published data collected from different parts of Puget Sound as part of an effort to characterize temporal and spatial variability in circulation and large-scale dynamics of the estuarine system (Geyer and Cannon, 1982; Cannon, 1983). We selected four stations that highlight the Fig. 3. (a) Tidal elevations at open boundaries: entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca (Black) and North End of the Strait of Georgia. (b) Basin-wide river inflowsdPuget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and Georgia Strait. 310 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 different characteristics within Puget Sound (Fig. 1(a)). The velocity profile in Admiralty Inlet under the influence of mixing over the entrance sill shows characteristics seen in coastal plain or a partially mixed estuary that is generally well described using a near-constant description of the eddy viscosity coefficient, Kmo. As shown in Fig. 2, in Admiralty Inlet, the inflow at the bottom peaks approximately at three-fourths (3/4 ) of the water depth level. Further south in Puget Sound, the Shilshole and the Main Basin sites show that the shape of the residual current profile has changed. For the period of record, the peak inflow and zero flow (crossover) occurs at a much shallower depths in the Main Basin and Shilshole sites relative to Admiralty Inlet. Fig. 2 shows that the variable Km model works well over most of the region. In the relatively exposed Puget Sound Main Basin location, it is likely that Fig. 4. (a) Example of comparison between simulated and observed water surface elevation at Seattle station. (b) Example of comparison between simulated and observed currents in Skagit Bay in the surface middle and bottom layers of the water column. T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 wind mixing caused a reduction of the surface-layer outflow. Hence, the predicted solution is found to overestimate the outflow currents. In the sheltered region of the Saratoga Passage, the surface layer appears to be intact, and the overall behavior, which is like a classic fjord, is matched well over the entire water column. The fit was achieved in two steps. After specifying physical properties of the basin as input (H, W, and Qr) and selection of a reasonable but arbitrary value of surface eddy viscosity (Kmo ¼ 10 105), the depth-penetration factor “a” was adjusted so peak inflow depth matched data. The depth-averaged salinity gradient ðvs=vxÞ was then adjusted until a best match to velocity magnitudes was obtained. For a fixed “a” value and all other physical parameters remaining unchanged, the ratio of vs=vx to Kmo controls exchange flow and varies basin to basin, but is a constant in each basin. 311 This exercise was valuable in showing it is possible to aggregate the effects of many dominant physical Puget Sound processes into a few parameters. The development of characteristic surface outflow and shallow inflow in the upper half of the water column could be created through the analytical formulation of Km, which increased exponentially with depth. The depth of peak inflow and layer depth (or depth of zero flow) was controlled by the specified magnitude of “a,” and peak outflow or inflow was shown to be sensitive to components of exchange flow velocity UE (see Appendix A), which includes depth H, Kmo, and the depth-averaged salinity gradient vs=vx. If we assume that surface eddy viscosity (Kmo) within Puget Sound may be set relatively uniform, the variation of circulation in sub-basins is controlled by 1) hydraulic features, such as sills and basin geometry, and 2) freshwater inflow. The combined effects Fig. 5. (a) Simulated (line) and observed (circle) salinity profiles in February high-flow condition. (b) Salinity time series comparisons at Saratoga Passage, East Passage, and Hood Canal stations, respectively (Julian Day 1 ¼ January 1, 2006). 312 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 Table 2 Model calibration error statistics. a) For water surface elevation (2006) Station MAE (m) RMSE (m) RME (%) Correlation (R) Port Angeles Friday Harbor Cherry Point Port Townsend Seattle Tacoma 0.22 0.24 0.30 0.22 0.26 0.27 0.27 0.30 0.36 0.28 0.31 0.33 7.5 8.0 8.6 7.0 7.2 7.6 0.944 0.950 0.953 0.965 0.976 0.977 Mean 0.25 0.31 7.65 0.961 b) For velocity Station MAE (m/s) RMSE (m/s) Correlation (R) Surface Middle Bottom Surface Middle Bottom Surface Middle Bottom Pickering Passage Dana Passage Swinomish Channel Skagit Bay 0.16 0.26 0.26 0.30 0.11 0.26 0.33 0.21 0.10 0.26 0.30 0.18 0.20 0.30 0.32 0.38 0.14 0.30 0.37 0.29 0.13 0.31 0.34 0.22 0.686 0.919 0.754 0.652 0.914 0.943 0.555 0.798 0.831 0.913 0.466 0.795 Mean 0.23 0.28 0.769 c) For salinity Station MAE (ppt) RMSE (ppt) Admiralty Inlet Entrance (ADM2) Admiralty Inlet North (ADM1) Admiralty Inlet South (ADM3) Puget Sound main basin (PSB) East Passage (EAP) Gordon Point/Tacoma Narrows (GOR1) Hood Canal (HCB003) Saratoga Passage (SAR003) Nisqually Reach (NSQ) Dana Passage (DNA) 0.60 1.04 0.81 1.29 0.66 0.67 0.72 0.63 0.79 0.96 0.85 1.23 0.97 1.86 0.98 0.93 0.93 1.10 1.00 1.15 Mean 0.82 1.10 MAE ¼ mean absolute error; RMSE ¼ root mean square error. of which are included in specified values of “a” and the resulting vs=vx, respectively. It may be reasonable to assume that surface eddy coefficient Kmo, ratio of eddy viscosity to diffusivity d, and depth-penetration factor “a” are likely governed by intrinsic geometric and hydraulic features of each basin for normal weather and wind conditions. Once determined for each basin through parameter calibration or site-specific measurements, they may be expected to remain relatively constant. Salinity gradient, however, will vary seasonally and change with alterations to runoff and precipitation regimes with potential changes in climate. In the current analytical formulation, we have not attempted to relate vs=vx to inflow Qr. Therefore, a direct application of the analytical solution to predict a response of current and salinity profile to changes in freshwater inflow is not possible. Without prior knowledge of these parameters, the exercise at this point may be viewed as a sophisticated fitting of solution to the observed data in individual basins. As more data becomes available, there is potential for both practical applications and developing better understanding of circulation in fjord-like estuaries using this type of approach. In the absence of direct measurements, we turn to a 3-D numerical model with the ability to estimate eddy viscosity and eddy diffusivity coefficients internally through turbulence closure schemes and to compute longitudinal and vertical salinity gradients in baroclinic mode for the entire domain. The reproduction of observed current and salinity profiles (shape and magnitude) in Puget Sound using a simple analytical formulation demonstrated here sets the standard and performance expectations for the numerical model. The numerical results may then be assimilated back into the analytical model for future development and application. 3. Puget Soundd3-D circulation and transport numerical model 3.1. Model setup A multiscale model of Puget Sound with a grid size capable of resolving small channels near river mouths to coastal open waters was developed previously and has been applied on multiple projects in connection with nearshore restoration actions for improving the water quality and ecological health of Puget Sound (Yang and Khangaonkar, 2010; Khangaonkar and Yang, 2011). The Puget Sound model uses the finite volume coastal ocean model Table 3 Compilation historical Puget Sound data (Cokelet et al., 1990). Reach Pillar Point New Dungeness Point Jefferson East Passage Colvos Passage Gordon Point Devil’s Head Tala Point Hazel Point Saratoga Passage Years of observation Velocity Salinity 1975e1978 1964, 1978 1972e1973, 1975e1978 1943, 1977, 1982e1983 1947, 1977 1945, 1977e1978 1945, 1978 1942, 1952, 1963, 1977e1978 1942, 1978 1943, 1970, 1977 Primary salinity data was obtained from the University of Washington’s field program (1951e1956) T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 (FVCOM) developed at the University of Massachusetts (Chen et al., 2003). FVCOM is a 3-D hydrodynamic model that can simulate tidally and density-driven, and meteorological forcing-induced circulation in an unstructured, finite element framework. The unstructured-grid model framework of FVCOM is well suited to accommodate complex shoreline geometry, waterways, and islands in Puget Sound. FVCOM solves the 3-D momentum, continuity, 313 temperature, salinity, and density equations in an integral form. The model employs the Smagorinsky scheme for horizontal mixing (Smagorinsky, 1963) and the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulent closure scheme for vertical mixing (Mellor and Yamada, 1982). The model has been successfully applied to simulate hydrodynamics and transport processes in many estuaries, coastal waters, and open oceans (Zheng et al., 2003; Chen and Rawson, 2005; Isobe and Fig. 6. (a) Comparison of simulated Year 2006 average velocity profiles at various Puget Sound sub-basins with composite data from Cokelet et al. (1990). (b) Comparison of simulated Year 2006 average salinity profiles at various Puget Sound sub-basins with composite data from Cokelet et al. (1990). 314 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 Beardsley, 2006; Weisberg and Zheng, 2006; Zhao et al., 2006; Aoki and Isobe, 2007; Chen et al., 2008; Yang and Khangaonkar, 2009; Yang et al., 2010a,b; Khangaonkar and Yang, 2011) For this study, we developed an intermediate (coarser) scale version of the same domain with grid size varying from 350 m in estuaries and bays to as large as 3000 m in open coastal waters (see Fig. 1(b)). The grid extends north into Canadian waters up to northern Strait of Georgia (south of the entrance to Johnstone Strait), and west to Neah Bay at the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A sigma-stretched coordinate system was used in the vertical plane with 10 terrain-following sigma layers distributed using a power law function with exponent P_Sigma ¼ 1.5 with higher resolution near the surface. This scale allows sufficient resolution of the various major river estuaries and sub-basins while allowing year-long simulations within 1e2 days of run times on a multiprocessor cluster computer. The bathymetry was from a combined data set consisting of data from Puget Sound digital elevation model (PSDEM) (Finlayson, 2005) and data provided by the Department of Fisheries and Oceans Canada covering the Strait of Georgia. The model bathymetry within the Puget Sound portion of the model south of Admiralty Inlet was smoothed to minimize hydrostatic inconsistency associated with the use of the sigma coordinate system with steep bathymetric gradients. The associated slopelimiting ratio dH/H ¼ 0.2 was specified within each grid element inside the Puget Sound region following guidance provided by Mellor et al. (1994) and using site-specific experience from Foreman et al. (2009), where H is the local depth at a node and dH is change in depth to the nearest neighbor. The model setup was conducted using Year 2006 as the basis since it was the most data-rich year for salinity, temperature, and water quality information from Puget Sound. Tidal elevations were specified along the open boundaries using XTide (harmonic tide clock and tide predictor) predictions (Flater, 1996) at the Tatoosh Island station located at the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Campbell River station at the mouth of Johnstone Strait. Fig. 3(a) shows tidal elevations forcing input specified at the open boundaries. In this study, temperature and salinity profiles along the open boundaries were estimated based on monthly observations conducted by the Department of Fisheries and Oceans Canada (near the open boundaries). In the entire model domain, initial temperature and salinity conditions were specified uniformly as 9 C and 31.5 ppt, respectively, and water surface and velocities were set to zero. To obtain the final initial condition for the Year 2006 model run, the model was spun up with Year 2005 forcing inputs. Sensitivity tests using constant tidal forcing and steady freshwater flows showed that dynamic steady state over most of the model domain with respect to velocity and salinity profile was achieved in 6e7 months of simulation confirming that 1-year-long simulation would be an adequate spin up period. The model includes 19 rivers that are incorporated with the resolution of estuarine distributary reaches. The Puget Sound region experienced a significant flood event in November 2006, which is reflected in the river discharge time series. In contrast, the Fraser River inflow on the Canadian side of the domain, which is significantly higher than the rest of the inflows into Puget Sound and the Straits, shows a very different seasonal distribution patterndhigh flow in the late spring and summer and low flow in the fall and winter. Fig. 3(b) shows a plot of basin-wide freshwater discharges grouped by their discharge basins. The Whidbey Basin consists of the three largest rivers, Skagit River, Snohomish River, and Stillaguamish River, in Puget Sound and accounts for almost 70% of the total freshwater flow into Puget Sound. Meteorological parameters for calculation of net heat flux in FVCOM include: 1) downward and upward shortwave radiation, 2) downward and upward longwave radiation, 3) latent heat flux, and 4) sensible heat flux. These meteorological parameters were obtained from North American Regional Reanalysis (NARR) data generated by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) National Center for Environmental Prediction (NCEP) and used to compute and specify net heat flux at the surface. Wind stress within FVCOM is calculated based on the wellknown Large and Pond method (1981). In general, winds are mostly southerly within Puget Sound with low speeds during summer (<5 m/s) and high during winter (as high as 15 m/s). Winds can reach gale-force easterly speeds, 17e24 m/s or higher, in the Strait of Juan de Fuca (Holbrook et al., 1980). Local winds are known to be affected by topography and accurate simulation of wind effects would require specification of wind field at 1e5 km resolution. In this application, representative wind field was specified using NARR prediction from a station near main basin of Puget Sound. 3.2. Model calibrationd2006 data The primary calibration effort was associated with refining and smoothing of bathymetry; averaging of specified boundary forcing salinity and temperature profiles; and adjustment of bed friction until a stable model operation and best fit of predicted water surface elevation (WSE), velocity, salinity, and temperature to observed data at selected stations in Puget Sound was achieved. There are six realtime tidal stations maintained by NOAA as part their Physical Oceanographic Real-Time Systems (PORTS) program throughout the Straits and Puget Sound. Velocity data are quite limited in Puget Sound. Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) data in South Puget Sound, Skagit Bay, and Swinomish Channel were used for model calibration (Yang and Khangaonkar, 2009). Monthly salinity and temperature profiles collected by the Washington State Department Fig. 7. (a) Tidally averaged salinity gradient ðvs=vxÞ time history at Saratoga Passage station simulated by the numerical model of Puget Sound for Year 2006. (b) Tidally averaged velocity profiles at Saratoga Passage station predicted using the analytical model for salinity gradient ðvs=vxÞ varying from 0.5 105 ppt/m to 7 105 ppt/m as provided by the numerical model. (c) Tidally averaged (monthly) velocity profiles extracted from the numerical model directly for the Year 2006 simulation. T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 of Ecology as part of their ambient monitoring program throughout Puget Sound were also used. Examples of time series comparisons for WSE, velocity, and salinity at selected stations are shown in Figs. 4(a), (b), and 5(b), respectively, to illustrate the quality of match in phase and magnitude. Error statistics at all stations analyzed are provided in Table 2aec and provide a quantitative assessment of the model’s ability to reproduce observed oceanographic parameters. As shown in Table 2a, mean absolute errors (MAEs) and root mean square errors (RMSEs) for WSE of all the stations are 0.25 m and 0.31 m, respectively. Relative mean errors (RMEs), defined as the ratio of MAE to the mean of daily tidal ranges, were within 10%. Sensitivity tests indicate that the main source of error is likely the error in specified boundary elevations at the Georgia Strait boundary. Velocity data available for model calibration in 2006 were limited. The ADCP data were collected within narrow, long channels with dominant longitudinal characteristics. For simplicity, comparisons were made between the model results and observed data along the major axis of tidal currents at the surface, middle, and bottom layers of the water column as shown in Fig. 4(b). The largest errors are in the surface layer, and smallest errors are in the bottom layer. Larger errors in the surface layer are likely due to limited accuracy associated with the use of wind field specified using NARR prediction from a representative station near main basin of Puget Sound. The overall MAE and RMSE for all four stations are 0.23 m/s and 0.28 m/s, respectively, as shown in Table 2b. Salinity and temperature predictions inside Puget Sound are sensitive to specified boundary temperature and salinity profiles. A review of the data from monthly profiles collected at the boundaries showed that seasonal salinity and temperature variations were only notable in the upper 50 m of the water column and nearly constant below throughout the year. Open boundary temperature and salinity values were set constant at 7.4 C and 34 in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and 9.3 C and 30.6 in Georgia Strait. Although year-long time histories were not available, salinity and temperature profiles were collected on a monthly basis at 25 monitoring stations within Puget Sound. In this study, we selected 11 stations representing the subbasins in Puget Sound for temperature and salinity profile comparisons. Fig. 5(a) shows a comparison between simulated and observed salinity profiles in February 2006 (high-flow condition). Table 2c shows that MAE and RMSE for salinity profiles at all stations were 0.81 and 1.0 ppt respectively. In addition to salinity profiles in Fig. 5(a), a comparison of predicted and observed salinity is presented in the form of time series data from Saratoga Passage, Hood Canal, and East Passage subbasins in Fig. 5(b). 4. Tidally averaged velocity profilesdcomparison with historical data Capability of the Puget Sound hydrodynamic model of reproducing tidally averaged circulation is of importance as this drives the mean transport and residence times, thereby influencing overall water quality. This requires a comparison of low-passed, tidally averaged currents and salinity with model results. The available current meter records from Year 2006 were from inner sub-basins not particularly well suited for evaluation of the tidally averaged transport in key locations such as Admiralty Inlet, Saratoga Passage, Main Basin, and Hood Canal. Therefore, we turned to historical records of currents and salinity measurements. As mentioned in the Introduction, much of our understanding of circulation in Puget Sound is based on synthesis and interpretation of historical data mostly from 1951 to 1956 and the 1970s and 1980s. Cokelet et al. (1990) used this information to develop composite vertical current and salinity profiles in each reach from short-term measurements. 315 Table 3 shows the years of observations at the respective stations, and the station locations are indicated in Fig. 1(b). A one-to-one comparison with model results corresponding to Year 2006 and Cokelet et al. (1990) data is not appropriate as this composite representation of Puget Sound circulation was constructed with data from multiple years. However, the ability to reproduce the characteristic features using the Puget Sound Circulation and Transport Model is encouraging. Fig. 6(a) shows a comparison of velocity profiles from 10 stations in Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca digitized from Cokelet et al. (1990) and the model results from Year 2006 averaged at the respective station location for the entire year of simulation. The velocity data collected over multiple years was not averaged at each depth and hence is shown as many discrete points. Fig. 6(b) shows a comparison of model results to salinity data also collected over multiple years but plotted after averaging at each depth. The historical composite velocity profiles show spatial variation and differences that also are recognizable in the simulated results. As postulated previously and based on observed data, Saratoga Passage in Whidbey Basin and Hazel Point in Hood Canal exhibit classical fjord behavior, and the model reproduces the shallow brackish outflow layer with inflow high up in the water column. The comparisons of velocity profiles at other stations show appropriate changes in characteristics with a reasonable agreement among the trends and magnitudes. For example, the tidally averaged currents are nearly unidirectional in Colvos Passage (north) and East Passage (south), respectively. Despite limitations of setting the model boundary at Neah Bay in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the velocity profile characteristics that resemble partially mixed estuaries with inflow of saline water from the coast, peaking at threefourths (3/4 ) depths, and outflow of combined Puget Sound and Canadian freshwater discharges through the surface appear to be correctly reproduced. As seen in Fig. 6(b), a salinity simulation correctly converges to a stable solution of approximately 30e31 throughout Puget Sound. This also illustrates the ability of the 10layer intermediate scale model to develop stratified Puget Sound conditions, including the sub-basins and inner passages. 5. Results and discussion Despite mixing and recirculation induced by the sills and subbasins, the tidally averaged salinity and current profiles in Puget Sound continue to retain many major fjord-like characteristics. As seen in the numerical model comparison to historical data and calibration using Year 2006 salinity profiles (Figs. 6 and 7), a distinct stratified upper layer, varying between 5 and 20 m in depth (z5e15% of the water depth), is maintained. Salinity variation below this surface layer is uniform with <1 ppt variation and determined primarily by the salinity of near-bed inflow waters from the Strait of Juan de Fuca near the mouth of Admiralty Inlet. In pronounced fjordal sub-basins, such as Saratoga Passage and Hood Canal, and inner reaches within south Puget Sound, freshwater inflow relative to basin size can be high. In these sub-basins, during periods of high runoff surface strong stratification with brackish salinity of 20e30 is seen within the shallow upper layer. The ability to simulate this response, as seen in the profiles and time series comparisons, demonstrates the ability of the FVCOM with the Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulent closure scheme to simulate fjordal estuaries such as Puget Sound. Tidally averaged peak outflow velocities at the surface vary from as <0.1 m/s in the inner basins, such as Hood Canal and parts of South Puget Sound to 0.1e0.2 m/s in the Main and Whidbey Basins to as high as z0.3 m/s in Strait of Juan de Fuca. Peak inflow velocities in fjordal basins of Hood Canal and Saratoga Passage are small (0.03e0.05 m/s), distributed over a larger depth relative to 316 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 outflow, and occur at relatively stable depths varying between 5% (Saratoga Passage) and 10e30% (Hood Canal) of water depth based on location relative to the sill. The depth of peak inflow drops to near mid-depth (z50% water depth) in the Puget Sound main basin at the Shilshole and Point Jefferson mooring locations. It is only in regions with high energy mixing in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Admiralty Inlet where profiles show characteristics matching those of partially mixed estuaries with inflow at z75% or greater depths peaking at z0.20 m/s. Using the analytical approach in combination with numerical model results reconfirmed that river runoff is a key driver of the mean circulation, and the mixing and stratification is dependent on mean circulation as opposed to tidal currents. Lumping of important physical estuarine processes into a few parameters allowed a closedform analytical solution, and, with the help of depth-varying eddy coefficients, it was possible to fit observed data despite site-specific complexity. The solution presented is limited by the fact that depthpenetration parameter “a” must be externally specified along with the choice of Kmo. Yet, once the combination of Kmo and “a” is determined as basin-specific parameters, the solution then is primarily controlled by salinity gradient vs=vx, which, in turn, is most directly controlled by freshwater inflow Qr. To illustrate this further, daily average values of vs=vx at Saratoga Passage were extracted from the Year 2006 model results and plotted as a function of Skagit River inflow. The correlation between salinity gradient and river flow is evident and is shown in Fig. 7(a). Fig. 7(b) shows that for the basinspecific values of eddy viscosity parameters (Kmo, “a”), the magnitude of the tidally averaged current profile is directly proportional to the salinity gradient (Equation (8)). This analytical model result is validated in Fig. 7(c), which shows monthly averaged velocity profiles at the same location extracted from the numerical model simulation. The salinity gradient varied from 0.5 106 to 7 106 ppt/m, and the simulated tidally averaged outflow velocity at the surface varied from 0 to 0.2 m/s. The depth of zero flow in the analytical model is a constant determined by the choice of Kmo and “a”. The numerical model result shows that in sheltered locations such as Whidbey Basin, which receives high amounts of freshwater, the depth of upper layer may remain relatively stable (z8 m in Saratoga Passage in 2006). (z34 ppt) sets up the near-bed salinity of the water that enters Puget Sound at Admiralty Inlet. Acknowledgements The development of this model of Puget Sound was partially funded through a grant from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and Washington State Department of Ecology. Partial funding also was received via a grant from the U.S. Department of Energy as part of the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy program. We would like to acknowledge Mr. Ben Cope of the EPA and Ms. Karol Erickson for their encouragement and support. We also would like to acknowledge comments provided by reviewers from the model development technical advisory team with representatives from King County, the University of Washington, and other stakeholders. Appendix A. Analytical solution for mean circulation in fjordlike estuaries For a narrow fjordal estuary with a uniform cross section, the vertical velocity component w(x,z) is small, and the longitudinal momentum term is negligible relative to the pressure gradient and the shear stress terms (Dyer, 1973; MacCready, 2004) such that Equation (2) reduces to: 0 ¼ 1 vP v vu Km : þ r vx vz vz Seeking an exact solution in an integral form, as opposed to a power series approximation by Rattray (1967), we adopted the approach used by MacCready (2004). In this approach, the velocity u(x,z) and salinity s(x,z) are split into depth-averaged (u and s) and depthvarying (u0 and s) parts, respectively, which is expressed as: uðx; zÞ ¼ uðxÞ þ u0 ðx; zÞ and sðx; zÞ ¼ sðxÞ þ s0 ðx; zÞ: Using Equations (3) and (4) and assuming that the pressure gradient may be written as: Tidally averaged circulation and transport processes in Puget Sound were analyzed using a combination of analytical and numerical models. An analytical solution was derived using an exponential form of the eddy viscosity coefficient and was shown to fit observed historical data in Puget Sound. Sensitivity tests with the analytical model highlighted the importance of freshwater discharge to the surface waters of Puget Sound. Mixing and development of stable stratified layers in Puget Sound is determined not by tidal currents, but by tidally averaged circulation and flushing. This was confirmed by the 3-D hydrodynamic model of Puget Sound, the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and Georgia Strait (Salish Sea) developed using the unstructured-grid coastal ocean modeling tool FVCOM. Composite salinity and velocity profiles from a historical data set were used to validate the Puget Sound model’s ability to reproduce the tidally averaged structure of Puget Sound circulation. The model results showed that surface salinity in Puget Sound responds rapidly to freshwater discharge, but salinity at depth is almost entirely determined by the salinity and exchange in the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Georgia Strait. The salinity gradient between Canadian waters in Georgia Strait, which receives considerable freshwater discharge (z30 ppt), and the saline Pacific Ocean waters near the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca ðvs0 =vxÞ 1 vP vh vs v vu KmðzÞ : ¼ g þ g$b$ z ¼ r0 vx vx vx vz vz 6. Conclusion (A1) (A2) ðvs=vxÞ, (A3) If Km were to be assumed constant (Kmo) as in the case of coastal plain estuaries or even partially mixed estuaries, eliminating the pressure gradient terms between equations (A1) and (A3) and taking another derivative with z eliminates the x-dependent terms and presents: v3 u g$b vs ¼ $ : Kmo vx vz3 (A4) Similarly, if Ks were assumed constant (for simplicity, the eddy diffusivity is assumed to be a ratio of vertical eddy viscosity Ks ¼ d$Kmo) per Pritchard (1954), for partially mixed systems, Equation (5) may be reduced to: u0 $ vs v 2 s0 zðd$KmoÞ 2 : vx vz (A5) The development above culminating in Equations (A4) and (A5) is identical to that presented in MacCready (2004), where a solution for (A4) and (A5) in the form of velocity and salinity profiles through direct integration. Appropriate free-surface and seabed boundary conditions are used, and there are net-flow and salt-flux balance considerations across the selected cross section. T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 We seek a formulation that would allow consideration of depthdependent Km(z) for application to fjordal conditions of the type observed in Puget Sound with a varying degree of vertical shear and mixing. Eliminating the vh=vx term from Equation (A3) and taking the depth dependence of Km into consideration results in: vs v2 Km vu vKm v2 u v3 u g$b$ ¼ $ þ Km$ : þ 2$ $ vx vz vz2 vz2 vz vz3 where a is a measure of the depth penetration of the circulation, and d is the ratio of Ks/Km. Note that z varies from 0 to 1 and Ks and Km increase with depth. Substituting Equation (A7) into (A6) expresses: U ¼ Km$ (A6) Here, we introduce a non-dimensional depth variable z ¼ z=H, where H is the water depth, and an exponential variation of Km and Ks with depth similar to the form used by Rattray (1967) defined by: KmðzÞ ¼ Kmo$ea$z ; (A7) KsðzÞ ¼ d$KmðzÞ ¼ d$Kmo$ea$z ; (A8) 317 vu a2 $ v2 u ! v3 u þ 2$a$ 2 þ 3 vz vz vz vs 3 and U ¼ g$b$ $H : vx (A9) The solution for u(z) is obtained by integrating Equation (A9) with respect to z subject to the conditions that vu=vz ¼ 0 at z ¼ 0 (free-surface zero shear assumption) and u(z) ¼ 0 at z ¼ 1 (zero velocity at the seabed). Also, the depth-averaged velocity, Z 0 Qr ¼ u ¼ uðzÞdz, where Qr is the freshwater river inflow H$W 1 and H and W are the water depth and width of an equivalent Fig. A1. (a,b) Along channel velocity “u” and profiles computed using variable Km. Solutions are plotted against non-dimensional depth z. (a) shows velocity profiles for a partially mixed estuary using a small value of decay “a” (0.01) and typical values of Kmo ¼ 10 105. (b) shows velocity profile matching typical fjordal characteristics as in Rattray (1967) using a higher magnitude of eddy viscosity and depth-penetration factor. (c, d) Corresponding salinity solutions. 318 T. Khangaonkar et al. / Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 93 (2011) 305e319 estuary of rectangular cross section. The tide-averaged longitudinal velocity solution, also referred to here as the “variable Km solution,” is expressed by: C1 eaz $ðaz þ 1Þ $ Kmo a2 uðzÞ ¼ U $eaz Kmo z 2 a þ 2z 2 þ a2 a3 ! þ C3; (A10) I1 ¼ 1 2 2 2þ 3 ; a a a ea 1 ea $ð1 aÞ 1 2 ; I3 ¼ ea $D 3 ; ; I2 ¼ a a2 a J1 ¼ I3 2$I2 2$I1 þ 2 þ 3 a a a C1 ¼ ; J2 ¼ 0 v vs KsðzÞ ¼ a$u0 ðzÞ; vz vz (A11) where a ¼ H2 $ðvs=vxÞ, u0 ¼ ½uðzÞ u, and u(z) is taken from Equation (A10). The integration of Equation (16) was completed using the boundary conditions that there is no salt exchange across the free-surface boundary, i.e., vs0 =vz ¼ 0 at z ¼ 0 and the depth R0 average of s0 ¼ 0, or ð 1 s0 ðzÞdz ¼ 0Þ. The variable Ks solution for the depth-varying component of salinity is formulated by: where D¼ MacCready (2004) in combination with the constant Km cubic velocity profile to develop the quintic profile for salinity. Following the treatment used by MacCready (2004), but with the exponentially varying Ks assumption of Equation (A8), the salt balance formulation may be written as: s ðzÞ ¼ U C1 e2az ð2az þ 5Þ $ e2az 2$Kmo 4a4 ! ! 2 1 z 2z 2 2 z þ þ ða þ 2Þ þ a5 a2 2a 4a2 8a3 ) eaz ðaz þ 1Þ eaz D1 þ D2 ðC3 uÞ $ a a2 d$Kmo Kmo a$I2 þ I1 ; a2 U u$Kmo $ðD$ea J1 Þ 2 ; ea $ð1 aÞ J2 aa U$D$ea C ea ð1 aÞ C3 ¼ : 1 $ 2$Kmo Kmo a2 Note that in the Equation (A10) and subsequent developments (shown below), it is understood that u, and s are functions of (x, z), vs=vx and constants of integration with respect to z, (C1, C2, and C3) are applicable only for a specific location (xo). In the above equations, the variation of Km in the vertical is governed by the value of the depth-penetration factor, a. Longitudinal velocity u(z) per equation (A10) is a function of physical parametersddepth-averaged velocity u ¼ Qr =ðH$WÞ and depth-averaged longitudinal salinity gradient vs=vx. The solution also depends on model parameters eddy viscosity Km and depthpenetration coefficient “a”. For small magnitudes of a (jaj 0.01), Km is nearly constant with respect to z, and the solution reduces to that provided by MacCready (2004). Fig. A1(a) shows the analytical solution of the longitudinal velocity per Equation (A10) using a small value of a ¼ 0.01. A corresponding constant Km solution for partially mixed estuaries is also plotted in terms of u and exchange flow velocity UE ¼ ðg$b=KmÞðvs=vxÞðH 3 =48Þ as presented by MacCready (2004, 2007). This is also recognized as the classic cubic profile of Hansen and Rattray (1965). It is noted that exchange flow is related to U in the variable Km formulation. For typical conditions encountered in partially mixed and deep, narrow estuaries, the ratio ðu=UE Þ 1 results in a fixed-profile shape such that inflowing current always occurs at a constant depth, z ¼ 0.75. This limits the use of the constant Km solution to typical fjords, where peak inflow may occur much higher in the water column. Fig. A1(b) shows a profile that matches the classic fjordal circulation description (e.g., Rattray, 1967), where the main circulation is restricted to a strong outflow in the upper layer with an inflow immediately below the pycnocline. This was obtained using a higher magnitude of depthpenetration factor in the variable Km solutiondEquation (A10). Pritchard (1954, 1956) showed tidally averaged salt conservation for coastal and partially mixed estuaries is dominated by the balance between advective shear and vertical diffusion. This formulation was used by Hansen and Rattray (1965) and ( a 0 (A12) where M1 ¼ 2a 2a e 1 e $ð1 2aÞ 1 ; ; M2 ¼ 2a 4a2 2 ; 8a3 a 3$U 2$C1 D1 ¼ ; and þ d$Kmo Kmo$a4 Kmo$a3 a U C1 ð2aM2 þ 5M1 Þ D2 ¼ þ $ $ d$Kmo 2$Kmo Kmo 4a4 e2a M3 ¼ 1 2 2 þ 2a 4a2 8a3 1 M3 2M2 2M1 2 þ þ ðaM þ 2M Þ þ 2 1 a5 4a2 8a3 a2 2a ðaI þI1 Þ I þ 1 D1: þ ðC3 uÞ $ 2 2 a a (A13) Salinity profiles are then computed using the definition: sðzÞ ¼ s0 ðzÞ þ s and the assumption that, at the seabed ðz ¼ 1Þ, salinity may be assumed equal to ocean salinity (i.e.,sð1Þ ¼ socn ). Typical profiles of salinity for a partially mixed estuary are shown in Fig. A1(c). For a small value of the depth-penetration factor (a ¼ 0.01), the solution reduces to the classic quintic profile (Hansen and Rattray, 1965; MacCready, 2004). 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