Rose Rosette Disease Growers Manual

Rose
star
Production
Guidelines
®
ROSES & P L A NTS
Conard-Pyle
| From Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle | 2012 |
Table Of Contents
1. Rose Classifications For
Ordering
2. Procedures For Receiving
And Handling
3. Growing Environment
4. Planting
5. Growing On
6. Crop Scheduling
7. Pest And Disease Control
8. Sanitation
Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle
25 Lewis Road,
West Grove, PA 19390
800-458-6559
| www.starrosesandplants.com |
© 2012 Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle
Star Roses® and Plants/
Conard-Pyle
To maintain its tradition of innovation
in its second 100 years, Star® Roses
and Plants/Conard-Pyle has introduced
The Knock Out® Family of Roses and
Drift® Roses, both breakthroughs in rose
breeding. The company is also involved
directly in breeding perennials and
woody plants through an investment in
and close collaboration with NovaFlora,
a creator of new genetics. It continues to
bring new varieties of roses and plants to
the public. And, as always, it continues to
look for innovative ways to beautify the
American landscape.
If you have questions:
If you have questions, contact John
Rausch, Production/Operations or Steve
Ramsay, Propagation Manager/Grower
Extension. John and Steve have over
30+ years experience growing finished
roses and they are happy to answer
your questions by phone, by e-mail or in
person.
Call to set up a phone consultation or to
schedule an on-site visit.
John Rausch
Office: 800-458-6559 ext. 255
Cell: 410-708-6456
E-mail: jrausch@starrosesandplants.com
Steve Ramsay
star
®
ROSES & P L A NTS
Conard-Pyle
Office: 800-458-6559 ext. 247
Cell: 610-721-9563
E-mail: sramsay@starrosesandplants.com
two-year budded
1. Rose Classifications For Ordering
There are several classifications of roses that are available from Star® Roses and
Plants/Conard-Pyle.
1. Two-year old, budded rose plants. These are the most common for
garden roses, and are budded onto Dr. Huey rootstock.
2. One-year, own root rose plants. This method of production is being
done more and more at Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle; initially the list
consisted of only landscape shrub roses and miniature types like Sunblaze®,
but is now being broadened to include many other popular rose varieties.
One-year own root varieties include Knock Out® varieties, Drift® Roses,
Floribundas like Marmalade Skies™ and Grandifloras like Mother of Pearl.™
3. Standard trees or Patio tree roses. These range in age from one to three
years old and are available in 24” & 36” in length.
one-year own root
4. Rose plug liners. This plant form is most popular in more temperate
climates, and is used mostly for smaller container finishing.
The large number of rose types can be confusing to a grower so consult your
Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle sales representative for advice. Your
geographical location plays a big role, as northern growers will emphasize winter
hardy own root varieties, while growers in moderate climates will have more
choices.
36” Standard tree
All our roses are virus-indexed through the University of California-Davis. This
is important as more state agricultural departments are inspecting roses for the
presence of virus. Our virus free roses also grow more vigorously and give better
overall performance for you and your customers.
Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle uses USDA specifications for
grading plants. #1 grade are the largest and consist of 3-4 canes .
Grade #1.5-#2 can offer a more affordable option although
they typically finish a smaller plant and may need a flush and
a trim, adding 4-5 weeks to the crop cycle; consult your sales
representative for specific information. Star® Roses and Plants/
Conard-Pyle also offers a row run price for larger growers
who have the capability to receive and pot a mixture of
grades #1, 1.5 and 2. Your sales representative can
provide additional details. When placing your plant
order, you should place your container order. Be sure
to consult your sales representative on these details.
rose plugs
Plant tags will be shipped with your order of bare-root
plants or plugs unless you are a licensee, in which case
your tag order is placed by you directly with Star® Roses
and Plants/Conard-Pyle as per the license agreement.
contact your sales representative to order branded containers
2. Procedures For
Handling And Receiving
Your Order
1. Bare-root Orders
Harvest and grading begins in early November
and is usually finished by mid-February,
depending on the weather. Roses are shipped
from mid-December to the mildest climates
(Southern California, Texas, and Florida) until late
March or even early April in the upper Midwest
and North East.
Because the time between the first harvest and
late shipping is so long, storage of dormant
plants is critical. Unless you have the proper
refrigeration facilities, do not plan for your
roses to arrive any more than a week to 10 days
prior to planting. If you are storing bare-root
roses, always use a refrigeration unit with good
ventilation, and never store fruit or vegetables
with roses as dormant roses are sensitive to
ethylene. The optimum storage temperature for
roses is 34 degrees F.
As soon as you receive your bare-root shipment,
open the boxes and examine the plants for
possible damage caused by transit. Bare-root
roses will tolerate freezing to some extent
without detrimental effects if they are slowly
thawed out. Carriers are instructed to maintain
reefer temperatures of 36-40 degrees F while
your order is in transit; however in rare cases a
shipment could arrive frozen. In this case close
the boxes and place them in a cool dark place
or in a cooler at 35-40 degrees F to slowly thaw
out. Do not water them at this time or try to thaw
them quickly in a warm room. This could result
in severe damage and possibly the loss of the
plants.
2. Plug Orders
Plugs are shipped either in boxes or shipper
racks, and should be inspected upon arrival for
any transit damage. The plug trays should be
unboxed or unpacked immediately and potted
as soon as possible. Tray plugs can tolerate
additional time in their existing cells. Keep the
plug trays above 34 degrees, properly irrigated,
and exposed to sunlight prior to planting.
3. Growing Environment
outside
There are a wide range of growing environments,
however most customers are growing roses either
inside a heated greenhouse, directly outside in a
mild environment, or in an unheated cold frame.
Whether your location is indoors or outside, it must
have ample light from dawn to dusk, should have
good air circulation, and the plant material should
never be in standing water.
Cold frames covered with clear poly will provide the
best light conditions for growing on. Some growers
use a process called sweating to force bare root
plants to break dormancy, and to insure a better
start.
Sweating is the process of creating a micro
environment with the combination of high humidity,
and warm temperatures inside a cold frame. This
process can take as little as 3 days, and usually no
longer than a week, and is discussed in more detail
on the Growing On chapter.
unheated cold frame with plastic
heated greenhouse
unheated cold frame without plastic
4. Planting
Containers
You can choose a wide range of container sizes
for your crop. Typically plugs smaller than 4” are
grown in containers less than 3 gallons. Two year
or 1 year Bare-root plants are grown in 2 gallon
sizes or larger, and bare-root tress are grown in 5
gallons. Remember to order branded containers
as required as discussed in Chapter 1.
Media
Roses may be produced in a wide range of
media. The mix should be well drained and high
in organic matter (optimally 80%). Provide a
starter charge with Calcium, NP & K, Magnesium
and micronutrients. Your media recipe should
be designed to fit your personal growing style.
The optimum PH for growing roses is 5.5-6.2
It is important that the media be adjusted if
necessary to achieve this PH range
prior to planting.
Prior to planting, prune the
canes of bare-root liners to
6” above the bud union for two
year roses, or 4.5-5.0
inches for one year
plants. This pruning
will encourage a
more uniform
break and a
better finished
product. Root
pruning is not
recommended,
unless the roots
are too big for the
container in
which case trim only the
minimum and leave as
many fibrous roots as
possible.
It is extremely important to keep the bare-root
plants from drying out during the entire planting
operation. Do not leave roses for very long
without water between planting and spacing.
Do not expose plants to extreme cold (below 22
degrees F) during planting and spacing. When
planting a budded rose, the bud union (graft
area) should be at or slightly above the soil line.
Firming the soil around the roots during potting
is important to reduce air pockets which can dry
out the roots. It is a good idea to stake tree roses
to keep them straight in the container.
5. Growing On
The roses are now ready to be set down in
the growing area. The growing area will vary
depending on your geographical location
(Chapter 3) and the size of the nursery /
greenhouse. In most nurseries bare-root roses
are spaced directly on the final spacing. Starting
plants off with pot –to – pot spacing can save
space initially, but this is usually not very cost
effective. Furthermore, spacing too late may
result in significant breakage. Roses grown from
plugs can be set down pot to pot and spaced
at a later date. Once set down, water plants
thoroughly until the media mix is fully saturated.
DO NOT APPLY HERBICIDE TO ROSES AT
THE TIME THEY ARE POTTED.
Forcing / Sweating
This process is typically only used in a cold frame
environment with bare-root roses to shorten the
growing cycle. This practice although effective,
requires extremely close attention to details. It
is suggested that growers experiment with this
practice on a small scale and gain experience
first. Sweating starts by covering the newly
potted roses with a thin clear polyethylene
plastic sheet to create a seal and an environment
that will have very high humidity; this will help
force leaf expansion. Walk the crop daily to
monitor for bud break and any dry media which
may develop under the plastic blanket. When
bud eyes expand and the uppermost shoots
come in contact with the plastic, the blanket
should be removed. Removal should be done
in stages to avoid burning the foliage. First day,
early in the morning, remove blanket back 1
row, to break the contact with the floor and
allow humidity to escape. On the next day early
in the morning remove the blanket back half
way, continuing to not allow the plastic to have
contact with the floor. On the third day early
in the morning remove the blanket all the way,
water roses to saturation, and begin a fungicide
rotation (Chapter 8). Poly blanket can also serve
as good protection against frost. In the event
of below freezing temperatures pull the poly
blanket back over the crop, this will help protect
the new growth. This frost protection practice
can be continued until the tender flush of
growth becomes too tall and covering damages
the young leaves.
Cold Protection
When growing in cold frames any roses sweated
or forced for early spring sales, typically in
colder climates, will need to be protected from
temperatures below 32 degrees F. Poly blanket
can be pulled until the new shoots reach a
certain height. Once growth height becomes
6.0-8.0” tall, heat (if available) or irrigation bursts
can be applied to raise temperatures above 32
degrees F. When newly potted roses are grown
outside, they should be protected from wind
and sun until plants are rooted in. Irrigation
bursts can be used to prevent canes from drying
out.
Hardening Off
Roses grown in greenhouses or cold frames are
softer and more succulent and therefore need to
be gradually acclimated to outdoor conditions
at finishing. Sides of cold frames should be raised
gradually over a 14 day period prior to shipping
to harden the crop off.
Fertility
Nurseries use a wide range of fertilizer
formulation and methods. A well balanced
incorporated slow release, and soluble form, are
the most common. Soluble or liquid applications
should begin when shoots are 1.0-1.5” long, and
when the first leaves
have fully expanded.
Feed at a beginning
rate of 125ppm150ppm N, apply
only clear water
at every third or
fourth irrigation to
avoid salts buildup.
Growers who
use incorporated
fertilizer should
select a well balanced product with minors and
as with soluble applications maintain a target
EC of 1.0-1.5. Growers that plan to have plants
go dormant for next season sales should reduce
to 75 ppm N soluble in the fall and then stop
feeding entirely, and if using a CRF, plan the
longevity accordingly.
Irrigation
Roses prefer a thorough watering but do not
want “wet feet”. To reduce disease, avoid leaving
foliage wet into the night. Roses do best when
they dry down so they are slightly moist before
the next irrigation. It is important to make and
execute irrigation decisions early in the day. You
want your foliage to be dry and your humidity to
be as low as possible at the end of the day.
Trimming / Pinching
As a general rule roots should be reaching the
outside of the container before trimming. At that
time the plant will begin to grow rapidly. Usually
buds should also have begun to form before the
first pinch. Generally, the second pinch should
occur once you have one well developed “five
leaflet” above the last pinch. Subsequent pinches
should be made on the same basic schedule.
Look for bud development to dictate the time
of each pinch; this will usually occur in time
frames around 5-7 weeks apart. It is important
to irrigate your plants before pinching. During
the hottest weeks of the year pinching can cause
problems for growers, especially in Texas and
Southern California when temperatures are
above 100 degrees F. It is best to avoid pinching
during extreme heat spells. Bare-root #1 grade
plants in most cases do not need to be trimmed
prior to finishing.
6. Crop Scheduling
Crop scheduling and timing finished plants
varies drastically with geographic location and
environmental conditions. Most container rose
sales occur from early to late spring, with a large
percentage being finished for Mothers day. The
following are examples of crop finish times for #1
grade bare-root plants without pinching:
• Outdoor production in Southern California
for early spring sales. Production time is nine
weeks: Pot in mid December and ship late
February.
• Outdoor production in Northern California
for Mothers day sales. Production time is
twelve weeks: Pot late January
• Cold frame production in the Northeast and
Mid West for Mothers day sales. Production
time is ten to twelve weeks: Pot in early
February and ship from late April to early
May.
• Outdoor production in Texas for Mothers
day sales. Production time is eight to ten
weeks
In general, smaller plants such as grade # 1.5 will
usually require a pinch, adding three to four
weeks to the total crop time, unless they are
grown in very mild climates.
The following are examples of crop finish times
for finished plants started from plugs:
• Plant liner in early spring and grow for 5-6
weeks, pinch the liner and then grow for
another 5-6 weeks, pinch the liner again and
grow for an additional 6-7 weeks to crop
finish. Plant to finish time total 4-5 months,
depending on location, facility and pot size.
• Plugs can be planted in late summer or fall
and then sold the following spring. In this
case the plant would be allowed to grow
and the first pinch would not be done 5-6
weeks after planting. In warmer climates and
depending on planting date the first pinch
could occur once the plant has fully bloomed
out or at about 8-9 weeks after planting. The
plant would then, under either scenario go
dormant for the winter. The grower must
then work backwards from his desired ship
date to determine when the next pinch will
be. Subtract 6-7 weeks from the ship date
to determine the 3rd pinch. Subtract 5-6
weeks from the 3rd pinch to determine the
2nd pinch. Subtract 5-6 weeks from the 2nd
pinch to determine when the 1st pinch should
occur right after winter.
7. Pest and Disease Control
Root Diseases
There are three root diseases that could occur in
growing roses. Pythium is typically encountered
in cool media situations, Rhizoctonia in warm
media situations, and Phytophthora is usually
encountered in media with prolonged high
moisture content. To prevent these problems,
apply preventative chemical drenches.
Applications to prevent these diseases should be
done during the growing season.
a. Chemical rates per 100 gal
Pageant 16 oz.
Protect DF 1 lb plus Agrifos 80 oz.
Insecticides
Aphids and spider mites are the most common
insect and mite pests, although whiteflies and
thrips can be problems, especially late in the
season, when temperatures are warmer. IPM
scouting is critical for identification of pests and
timing of sprays.
a. Chemicals
1. Aphids
Subdue maxx 1 oz. plus Medallion 1 oz.
1% vv Horticultural Oil
Segway 4 oz. plus Thiophanate methyl
(label rate)
Endeavor 5 oz. per 100 gal
Adorn 2 oz. plus Pageant 12 oz.
If you need to drench to control a disease
outbreak (Phytophthora) it is important to
correct the condition favoring the disease, most
likely over watering. Allow the media to dry
down to the point of being moist not wet. Any
of the above drenches would be acceptable to
correct an outbreak caught early in the disease
cycle. After drenching and correcting an over
watering situation new root growth should be
seen in about 2 weeks.
Fungicides
Fungicide rotations are important to maintain
healthy plant growth. Start the rotation when
you have leaf break and continue until the plants
go dormant. These rotations can be as aggressive
as every 7 days during vigorous growth periods,
and stretch to every 10-14 days during periods
of slow or no growth.
a. Chemical rates per 100 gal
Protect DF 1 lb plus Clearspray 4 oz.
(one time application)
Affirm 8 oz. plus Micora 6 oz.
Protect DF 1 lb plus Agrifos 80 oz.
Botanigard 22 WP 16 oz. per 100 gal
Flag Ship 25 WG 8 oz. per 100 gal
2. Mites
Avid 4 oz. plus 1% vv Horticultural
Oil per 100 gal
APPLYING BENEFICIAL INSECTS
Floramite SC 8 oz. plus Clearspray 4
oz. per 100 gal
Akari 20 oz. plus TetraSan 10 oz. plus
Clearspray 4 oz. per 100 gal
3. Thrips
Conserve 20 oz. per 100 gal
Avid 8 oz. per 100 gal
Botanigard 22 WP 16 oz. per 100 gal
(apply every 3-5 days if needed)
Overture 35 WP 8 oz. per 100 gal
4. Whitefly
Same as thrips rotation
Downy Mildew
Downy is probably the most common disease
encountered in growing roses in cold frames,
where controlling moisture on the leaves at night
is not always easy. Downy mildew is observed
on roses as angular purple / black blotches on
the upper leaf surface. Favorable conditions
for the development of this disease are when
temperatures are 50-70 degrees F, relative
humidity is 85% or higher, there is free water
on the foliage, and reduced air flow due to
crowded spacing.
never in the evening. If conditions are favorable
for disease development, time the spray
application when foliage is dry from irrigation or
morning dew.
If a disease outbreak occurs spray Adorn 2 oz.
per 100 gal along with the regular spray rotation.
Use this combination only one time per crop
cycle. If the disease pressure is still high, trim
plants 7 days after the Adorn application and
remove infected foliage and trimmings and
reflush the crop.
In 2011 Adorn was cleared by the EPA for use
In NY and CA. Both these states have stricter
requirements than the rest of the country so
product registration to NY and CA always
comes later.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is seen as long, white strands
or chains of spores. Powdery Mildew will infect
the upper and lower leaf surfaces as well as
stems and buds. Conditions that favor the
development of this disease are dry foliage, 6080 degrees F overcast days with dry conditions
and no rain, and high relative humidity usually
seen during late spring and early fall.
a. Controls
a. Controls
2% vv Horticultural Oil will help to smother
the spores and reduce the spread of the
problem.
Follow the previously listed Fungicide
controls for prevention
Follow the Oil application 3 days later with
Milstop 3 lbs. per 100 gal
Water is needed for spore development, once
spores develop and the foliage dries, the spores
are released and dispersed via wind. Irrigate
the crop by mid morning to ensure a quick dry
down, avoid irrigating in the afternoon and
downy mildew
Follow the Milstop application 5 days later
with Eagle 20EW 8 oz. per100 gal and a
spreader sticker. Eagle 20 EW is not to be
used in a greenhouse. For greenhouse roses
apply Spectro 90 at 24 oz. per 100 gal.
powdery mildew
Downy and Powdery Mildew are much easier to
prevent than to cure. It is important to react to
weather conditions and spray before the disease
develops. Applications on 7 day intervals during
the spring and summer months are critical.
a
Early Symptoms
c
Late Symptoms
Rose Midge
Rose midge is an increasing pest to roses
worldwide. The larvae feed within the emerging
leaf and flower bud causing the buds to wither
and turn black. The result can cause failure
to the bloom cycle and thus make the plants
unmarketable. The damage can be confused
easily with pesticide foliar spray burn.
Red elongated stem growth
Deformed flowers
b
d
Unopened flower buds
“Witches broom” like cluster
a. Control
Perform a soil drench with a product
containing imidacloprid as plants break
dormancy. Follow in 60 days with foliar spray
applications of dinotefuran (Safari) 18 oz.
per 100 gal. Apply once in May and June.
Rose Rosette Disease
Early Symptoms:
Plants infected for less than a month will
typically display one or two shoots with red
and elongated stem growth (see figure a),
sometimes with excessive thorniness, and
unopened flower buds (see figure b).
Late Symptoms:
Plants that have been infected for several
months or longer will show multiple deformed
shoots often bearing deformed flowers (see
figure c), and very dense “witches broom” (see
figure d) like clusters of leaves and stems. Once
a plant is infected, there is no cure for RRD but
infection may be prevented from spreading
to healthy plants by removing the infected
plants and using a combination of cultural and
chemical measures described in this document.
rose midge
Confusion With Herbicide Damage:
Herbicides can often cause symptoms similar to
RRD. Glyphosate can cause a compressed witches
broom habit over a large section of the plant.
It generally does not result in increased thorns
or increased redness of stem. See table 1 for
additional information.
Consumers and landscapers should be aware that
many herbicides used in lawn control and broad
leaf weed control products can cause symptoms
similar to RRD. It has been documented that many
of herbicides can survive composting. If compost
containing lawn clippings is used around roses
herbicide damage to roses can occur.
Table 1:
Rose Rosette Disease vs. Herbicide Damage
Figure a -
Caused by RRD: red,
elongated stem growth.
Figure b -
Caused by herbicide:
compressed witches
broom habit. Leaves are
reduced in size, long and
narrow. Lawn treatment
with glyphosate often
produces symptoms.
a
b
DNA Testing For RRD:
The causal agent of RRD is now believed to
be an RNA virus. Although we do not yet
have definitive proof that the virus is the sole
causal agent, its presence is strongly associated
with RRD symptoms. Star® Roses and Plants/
Conard-Pyle’s research division NovaFlora® has
optimized conditions for this assay and can
now perform tests for growers for a minimum
charge. Contact Star® Roses and Plants/ConardPyle for more details.
PCR Testing For RRD:
The Oklahoma State University Plant Disease
and Insect Diagnostic Laboratory offers RRD
PCR testing for both in and out of state clients
(US only, lower 48 states). The cost is $25
per sample and checks can be made out to
Oklahoma State University. They cannot accept
credit card payments at this time.
Snip off 2-3 symptomatic canes/leaves and
place inside two plastic bags (double bagged)
if from outside Oklahoma and send for testing
with the form in the link below. Symptomatic
leaves are the preferred tissue for testing. The
mailing address is at the top of the form. http://
entoplp.okstate.edu/pddl/pdidl-form.pdf
Results take about 2-3 days depending on how
busy the lab is. Reports are sent directly back
to the submitter preferably by emailed PDF.
Rose varieties affected:
Herbicide Carryover in Hay, Manure, Compost
and Grass Clippings. NC State Cooperative
Extension: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/fletcher/
programs/ncorganic/special-pubs/herbicide_
carryover.pdf. All hybrid roses are susceptible
to RRD. Only a few native US species roses are
resistant to the disease.
Vector:
RRD is spread by one species of eriophyid
mites (Phyllocoptes fructiphilus). They are
barely visible to the naked eye but are more
easily seen with a 20X hand lens. The mites
transmit the infectious agent which is most
likely a virus. RRD can affect all hybrid roses
and many rose species such as Rosa multiflora.
Spread:
The eriophyid mite is readily carried long
distances by the wind to neighboring plants
and neighboring fields.
Distribution in USA:
RRD has moved steadily Eastwards from its
origin in the Rockies. Its incidence correlates
strongly with the distribution of Rosa multiflora.
It has been reported in the Mid-West, NorthEastern US and most recently in Texas. There
are few reports of RRD West of the Rockies
where the main host Rosa multiflora is absent.
Control:
Early Infection: In a landscape and garden
setting, If caught early, infected canes should
be cut down to the ground. The remaining
shoot should be treated with a household
mitocide such as Abamectin. In many cases
this can sucessfuly rid the plant of RRD. In a
production setting, growers should destroy
infected plants as soon as possible and
observe other adjacent plants for symptoms.
In both production, garden and landscape
settings, plants should be burned and or
bagged.
Eliminate multiflora rose. Multiflora
rose is the most prevalent host for RRD. R.
multiflora plants should be eliminated from
surrounding fields within a 100-meter radius
and if possible a 1.5 mile radius) of rose
nurseries and gardens. Effective elimination
procedures include use of mechanical and
chemical methods: frequent, repeated cutting
or mowing at a rate of three to six times per
multiflora rose
growing season, for 2-4 years. Herbicides have
been used effectively, but because of the long
lived seed in the soil, followup treatments
are likely necessary. Application of systemic
herbicides to freshly cut stumps or to regrowth
is also recommended. Once eliminated
surrounding fields should be monitored for
regrowth in spring and early summer. See table
2 for more information.
Pruning dormant plants just before new
growth appears in late winter, will help
eliminate mites and their eggs that hide in
crevices of cane-petiole axis from infecting a
rose crop. We recommend cutting plants back
by 2⁄3 their size.
Star® Roses and Plants/Conard-Pyle is
aggressively funding and coordinating research
on many different levels, in-house and with
various industry professionals. While there
is no cure at this point, we are committed to
combating RRD. As a leading rose genetics
company, we are dedicated to leading
the charge against RRD. We will keep you
informed as we learn more about RRD and we
ask that you please keep us informed too.
Table 2: Chemical Control For Multiflora Rose: *
Name
Manufacturer
Active Ingredient
Rate
Additional Info
DuPont™ Escort®
Dupont™
Metsulfuron methyl
1-2 oz per 100 gal
Apply after break in dormancy, chemical
is absorbed by foliage and roots, nonselective
Tordon® K
Dow AgroSciences
Picloram
16-128 oz per 100 gal
Apply after break in dormancy, has the
potential to contaminate groundwater
Garlon® 4 Ultra
Dow AgroSciences
Triclopyr
2 -6 qts per 100 gal
Apply when plant is fully leafed out
Round Up®
Monsanto Company
Glyphosate
1.5 oz per gal
Multiple applications may be required to
achieve eradication
* State restrictions may apply.
Table 3: Chemical Control For Mites:
Three chemicals registered for control of eriophyoid mites can be used. Starting at bud-break and throughout
the growing season, it is important that they are used in rotation every 5-7 days to prevent the mites from
becoming resistant to any individual chemical. Growers who use this regime report significantly reduced
incidence of Rose Rosette Disease.
Name
Manufacturer
Active Ingredient
Rate
Avid
Syngenta®
Abemectin
4 oz per 100 gal
Oil
BioWorks®
Petroleum distillates
1 gal per 100 gal
Akari®
Sepro
Fenpyroximate
24 oz per 100 gal
Judo
OHPA
Spiromesifen
4 oz per 100 gal
Additional Info
Apply Avid and oil as a combination
spray for best results
Recommended that a sticker be added
8. Sanitation
Sanitation Techniques
Maintaining good overall sanitation techniques
will go a long way to reducing a nurseries disease
pressure, and potential infections that could
lead to crop loss; good cultural practices start at
propagation.
The following suggestions are sanitation
protocol’s that we have found to be effective
in the propagation of all woody ornamentals.
Note, propagation of Star® Roses and Plants/
Conard-Pyle patented products is illegal without
a license.
Once propagation material is harvested
rinse the cuttings with 50 oz. of Cease per 40
gallons of water.
when harvesting, preparing, and sticking
cuttings, gloves should be frequently rinsed
with 70% alcohol.
Sanitation Practices
Other general sanitation practices should be
adhered to in the growing environment for
example:
Keep floors clean of algae, and debris
Keep lids on debris cans and leave lid on
when removing
Sanitize propagation benches between crops
with Kleengrow
Keep hose ends off the ground at all times
Propagation material is best when stored at
45 F and is used within 72 hours.
Propagation material should be prepared
(made into cuttings) on tables covered with
metal to insure proper phytosanitation
(wood tables are porous and very hard to
clean). Tables are cleaned thoroughly at a
minimum of once per hour or every time
a variety is changed. Pruning shears should
be disinfected every 5 minutes and when
varieties change. For sanitizing both the
tables and pruning shears a disinfectant of
70% isopropyl alcohol is recommended.
Prior to planting all cuttings should be
dipped in Galltrol at a rate of 1 plate per
gallon of water.
Only use new trays for rooting cuttings.
Use clean freshly prepared rooting hormone
at the start of every day, and change to fresh
hormone after a variety change.
Harvest baskets should also be disinfected at
the end of each day.
Employees should wash their hands before
work, after each break, and use nitrile gloves
Conard-Pyle