Mixed Results for the Summer Shows in Las Vegas
Transcription
Mixed Results for the Summer Shows in Las Vegas
SJ trade shows Top: These amazing Colombian trapiche emeralds, supplied by MUZO and set in gold, gave designer Selim Mouzannar a win in the 'Colored Gemstones Above 20K' category at the Couture Design Awards. Below: Emerald and diamond ring by Fabergé. Mixed Results for the Summer Shows in Las Vegas Perhaps nowhere on earth do we find such a hectice and eclectic week of professional shows devoted to the jewelry—and increasingly watch—industry as we find in Las Vegas during the first week of June. This article offers a just a brief sampling of the many beautiful gems and jewels, at all price points, seen during this Jewelry Week... By Cynthia Unninayar J ewelry Week in Las Vegas kicked off with an expanded version of Couture that opened on June 2 at the prestigious Wynn Las Vegas. The five-day, by-invitation show was bustling with activity on the first day. Opening its doors on the same day was the four-day Las Vegas Antique Watch and Jewelry Show. Held at the Paris Hotel, its exhibitors showcased an array of vintage timepieces and jewels. The largest event of the week, with some 2400 exhibitors, was JCK, held at the remodeled Mandalay Bay Convention Center on June 3 for four days. A new entrance off the main parking lot greeted visitors as they approached the main area. Quasi-organized into “neighborhoods,” by product category or by national pavilion, the enormous first floor also included the Design Center and Rising Stars areas as well as several national pavilions. Even Luxury, on the second floor, had been expanded into two separate halls, eliciting complaints from more than one visitor that they could not find certain brands— and brands bemoaning that they were not found… Opening the same time as JCK, JIS ( Jewelers International Showcase, a cash-and-carry show) welcomed visitors at the Tropicana Hotel. 38 | J U LY 2 0 1 6 | J E W E L R Y S H O WC A S E Watches were also on the menu this year as both Couture and JCK incorporated more timekeepers into their shows. And a new independent show, Luxury Suisse, invited the trade to discover renowned, niche Swiss watch brands on June 4 and 5, at the Trump Hotel. The traditional five-day AGTA, June 2 to 6, featured its usual assortment of fine faceted and rough gemstones. Impossible to cover everyone, this overview gives a glimpse into some of the interesting and beautiful jewelry on display during Jewelry Week, from economical pieces to very high-end. Mixed Reactions It comes as no secret that the global jewelry industry has not shown spectacular results during the first half of 2016, starting with the January shows and continuing right through winter and spring. And, this slowdown appears to have continued even through the summer shows in Las Vegas. With jewelry sales in the USA showing slightly better results in 2015—sales of around $66.5 billion—than the previous year, marking a slight turnaround from 2013 and 2014, there was reason for cautious optimism at this year’s Jewelry Week. Lower metals prices in the first quar- ter of 2016 and continued softening of polished diamond prices, due to high inventories and a plethora of reclaimed diamonds, indicated reasons for greater demand. Yet, after walking the halls at the shows, it was abundantly clear that fewer visitors showed up compared to last year and, according to most exhibitors, less business was conducted. Among the most prolific categories was a vast assortment of earwear, including climbers and cuffs. Attracting much attention was the vast diversity of finger fashion, with rings now adorning multiple fingers and even nails. Long diamonds or gemstones by the yard were popular as were with chains and layered necklaces, while brooches were back in many styles and materials. Cuffs of all widths and designs were on display at most booths, and innovative transformable jewelry was quite popular this year. Silver was the material of choice for many designers and manufacturers. At the higher end of the silver spectrum, pieces included diamonds and gemstones, while more economical fashion silver jewelry was adorned with created stones of all colors. >> Paraiba, emerald and diamond earrings in gold by Caroline C. On the other hand, though, there were optimistic bright spots. Some companies said they did well, especially those at Couture, although the positive sentiment was by no means universal at the upmarket show. Athough there were fewer visitors, many of the Couture brands were happy with the interest and contacts generated at the show, stating that the buyers who showed up were serious. At the other shows, especially JCK, most of the exhibitors that I interviewed bemoaned the lack of buyers and business. They believed this was due to several reasons: the general economic climate, too many shows, the presence of JIS, which they felt spread buyers too thin, and uncertainty about the desire of millennials to purchase jewelry. But, all was not gloomy. A significant number (although a minority in my informal survey) of exhibitors felt that the show met or exceeded their (low) expectations. Three newcomers to JCK’s Luxury section, Laura Bicego of Italian brand Nanis, Sabina Lee of Hong Kong-based Green G, and U.S.-based Erica Courtney reported good results. Yet, while there may have been a shortage of buyers during Jewelry Week, one thing is sure. There was no shortage of creativity in jewelry design. Trending Styles In Las Vegas, there was truly something for everyone, from inexpensive silver, bronze or steel pieces to luxurious diamond and gemstone-studded jewelry in gold or platinum. JCK, in particular, embodied a very democratic assortment of jewels. Just about everything could be found at both branded companies and unbranded manufacturers. Opal, Paraiba tourmaline and diamond earrings in gold by Erica Courtney. Transformable jewelry offers versatility for its wearer, such as this mix-and-match ring in gold and diamonds by Nanis. Australian opal and multi-gem ring in gold by Green G. Illustration by Meredith Wing for Muse/Gemfields, evoking colorful gemstones and jewelry. J E W E L R Y S H O WC A S E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | J U LY 2 0 1 6 | 3 9