buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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BUYING GUIDE
DECEMBER 2012
A bunch of Furmint grapes, with some botrytis-affected
(aszú) berries, in Tokaj, Hungary.
40 CHILE
2 CENTRAL AND
EASTERN EUROPE
© HERBERT LEHMANN
16 ITALY
25 FRANCE
33 PORTUGAL
40 BRAZIL
47 CALIFORNIA
62 OREGON
65 SPIRITS
66 BEER
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND
REVIEWS, VISIT
BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
40 URUGUAY
WineMag.com | 1
CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE
OFF THE BEATEN OLD-WORLD PATH
W
hen categorizing the world of wine into Old World and New
World, there’s often little mention of the wines of Central and
Eastern Europe. But these regions of the Old World have notably rich histories, and amidst centuries of war and shifting political
boundaries, some have continued to make wine for more than 8,000 years.
Georgia, Macedonia and Romania have some of the longest wine-making
histories in the world.
This month, we review over 60 wines from our Other Europe category,
a category that includes wines from Bulgaria, Croatia, Georgia, Romania,
Slovakia, Slovenia and Turkey.
The widespread availability of these wines in the United States is quite
recent. But for American consumers, wines from these regions represent
an opportunity to delve into the epic history of winemaking and to discover unique grape varieties and regional winemaking styles, often at incredible values.
Georgia boasts not only the oldest record of winemaking, but helped to
establish “orange wines,” an ancient style of white-wine making that’s char-
BULGARIA
87
Domaine Boyar 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Thracian Valley). Pristine
flavors of cassis and black cherry give an elegant floral quality to this dry, full-bodied Cabernet. Crisp with
acidity, it’s balanced and impeccably crafted. It finishes long on a delicious coffee-inflected note. Bulgarian
Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
86
83
Targovishte 2011 Premium Quality Dry
Sauvignon Blanc (Black Sea Coastal).
Grassy with green leaf and fresh-cut herb notes, this
dry, easy-drinking wine boasts lively lime-juice acidity
and pleasant apple flavor. Slightly dusty notes of dried
herb and reed distract on the finish. Bulgarian Master
Vintners. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
CROATIA
Muskat Ottonel (Black Sea Coastal).
Fresh and floral, this is abundantly fragrant with notes
of sweet cherry blossom and freshly cut herb. The palate is crisp and dry, with zesty hints of underripe stone
fruit and lemon. Brisk and clean on the finish. Bulgarian
Master Vintners. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
90
84
90
Domaine Boyar 2007 Royal Reserve Mavrud (Thracian Valley). Earthy on the nose
and palate, with prominent mushroom and smoke
notes, this is a massively tannic wine, with a hefty serving of pulpy black-fruit flavor. It is full-bodied, with a bit
of heat on the finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
84
Riesling (Black Sea Coastal). Aromas of
sweet honey and caramelized sugar on this Bulgarian
Riesling belie a palate that’s crisp, dry and bristling with
acidity. Fresh lemon and apple flavors lack concentration but finish briskly with a hint of dusty minerality.
Bulgarian Master Vintners. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
acterized by extended macerations, resulting in gorgeously textured, goldhued wines that bristle with grape tannins.
Hungary is best known in the American market for Tokaji’s sublime dessert wines, but the region is increasingly gaining a reputation for crafting
quality dry white wines made from traditional Tokaji grapes as well as international varieties.
Slovenia, particularly the Primorska region, which lies adjacent to Italy’s Friuli, boasts an array of powerful, full-bodied whites, and some stunning red wines as well.
While limited availability allows us to review only a small portion of the
wines from these fascinating regions, we relish the opportunity to get to
know them and to share them with you.
Also in this Buying Guide, we review the latest crop of sparkling wines
from France and Italy, as well as new releases of table wines from Spain and
Portugal. From the New World, check out reviews of wines from Chile and
Brazil, plus hundreds more reviews of wines from California and Oregon.
Cheers!
—Anna Lee C. Iijima
Korta Katarina 2007 Plavac Mali
(Pelješac). Like Korta Katarina’s Reuben’s
Reserve, there’s an elegant floral quality that unites rustic red fruit, earth and animal characteristics. Intensely concentrated with crisp sour-plum acidity, it finishes
long, with a bristle of bold-yet-velvety tannins. Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I.
Price: $38
abv: 15.5%
Korta Katarina 2007 Reuben’s Private
Reserve Plavac Mali (Pelješac). Coarse
tannins and tones of smoke, sun-dried hay and cocoa
powder add a bold, brawny dimension to the fleshy, ripe
plum and cherry flavors on this wine. A pretty note of
violet perfume and bright acidity persist from start to
finish, adding shades of elegance. Katharine’s Garden
LLC. —A.I.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $57
89
Dinga
Winery 2010 Plavac Mali
(Pelješac). Unusually balanced, this delicate
Plavac Mali is a great introduction to a fascinating Croatian grape variety. The palate is soft and fleshy, with ripe
red-cherry and plum flavors, but flecked with hints of
hay, dried flower and herb. Delicate tannins frame the
chocolate-kissed finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. Best
Buy. —A.I.
Price: $13
abv: 12.5%
88
Frano Milos 2008 Plavac (Pelješac). Aeration is key to deciphering the layers of barnyard,
leather, earth and tannin that dominate the attack of this
brawny, bold wine. With time, a multitude of delicate
red-fruit, flower and hay notes unfold, contributing a
feminine flair that’s elegantly appealing. Blue Danube
Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $25
87
Bastianich 2010 Adriatico Malvasia Istriana (Istria). Though aromatically subdued,
there’s an intensity of tangerine and lime zest flavor in
this dry, invigorating Malvasia. The midpalate is marked
by elegant white-flower notes that linger on the slightly
astringent lime-pith finish. Dark Star Imports. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
87
Korta Katarina 2009 Pošip (Kor ula).
Waxy notes of white flower and orange peel
persist on the nose and palate of this bold, invigorating
wine. Dry and full bodied, it’s structured and concentrated, but it finishes crisply with hints of tart tangerine
and hazelnut skin. Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $24
83
Korta Katarina 2010 Rosé Plavac Mali
and Zinfandel (Pelješac). The lavors of candied red cherry and flower are pleasant, but dusty herb
notes distract on the nose and palate. It’s a big wine at
13.9% abv, but zesty acidity keeps it relatively balanced.
Katharine’s Garden LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $21
Continued on Page 14
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of newrelease and selected older beverage alcohol products
evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other
qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide
include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting
Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan
Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate
Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York,
European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor
Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff
in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and
Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two
or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect
the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits
Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by
Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
98
Flowers 2010 Sea View Ridge Estate
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
A cool climate has given this wine bracing acidity and
gentle-yet-persistent tannins. Its flavors of wild raspberries and cherries, with spice and mineral overtones, are
delicious. There’s a feral quality that expresses umami
perfectly, suggesting butter-sautéed, tamari-splashed
mushrooms and crisped prosciutto. The oak is powerful
and present in the form of toast and sweet vanilla, but
perfectly balanced with the wine’s volume. For all its
richness, the wine finishes bone dry. Drink this impeccable Pinot Noir now through 2020. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
96
Jarvis 2010 Finch Hollow Estate Grown
Cave Fermented Unfiltered Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Astonishingly rich, this is everything
you want a Chardonnay to be. It’s fantastically concentrated in pineapple, guava, green apple, pear and lime
fruits; it’s creamy and suave in lees influence; and it’s
brisk in acidity, despite undergoing malolactic fermentation. The texture is honeyed, with a perfect touch of
smoky, new French oak. The estate grapes come from
the winery’s vineyard high up in the Vaca Mountains,
east of the Silverado Trail. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $115
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net.
97
96
96
96
Iron Horse NV Joy! (Green Valley). This
multivintage bottling is extraordinarily rich in
orange fruit. You’ll find complex layers of smoky butter, yeasty brioche, vanilla and toasted oak. What’s so
remarkable, though, is the mouthfeel: While it’s brisk in
acidity, it feels as soft and gentle as satin. It’s so beautiful
now that you’ll find it difficult to keep from drinking the
entire magnum immediately. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $189/1.5 L
Iron Horse 2004 Chinese Cuvée (Green
Valley). Marked by its soft, mousse-like refinement, this sparkling wine is sheer silk and satin in the
mouth. On the palate, the raspberry, lime and vanilla
flavors are subtle, while leesy doughiness and oakiness
bring a touch of smoke. This is a beautiful wine for a celebratory toast, or to enjoy with lobster, crab or scallops.
It would also perfect a weekend brunch alongside plain
old scrambled eggs and buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $98
Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer To
Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabs aren’t always fabulous, because so many wineries source its
fruit, but Knights Bridge has a great track record. This
release is their best ever. Dry and soft in the mouth, it’s
drinkable now, yet so firm are the tannins that it will easily age. As for the flavors, they’re incredibly complex in
blackberries, black currant and licorice. Best now and
through the next 10 years. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $135
Pol Roger 2002 Extra Cuvée de Réserve
Vintage Brut (Champagne). The most recent vintage release from Pol Roger is this superb 2002.
Notes of apple, almond, citrus and a hint of toast mingle together effortlessly. It can be consumed now, especially with food, but its mixture of maturity and freshness promise to age beautifully for many years to come.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $110
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
WineMag.com | 3
95
Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity
Hills). In a stellar lineup of 2010 Evening Land Pinots,
this is the best. It displays eye-popping character and
depth, a ripe powerhouse at just 13.1% alcohol. Black
cherry fruit comes laced with cinnamon and baking
spice notes. It’s a full, round, rich, and fruity wine that
just never quits. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $60
95
Hidden Ridge 2007 55% Slope Impassable Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This has intensely concentrated flavors of black currant, blueberry preserves,
violet, vanilla and buttered toast; it’s as delicious as any
Cabernet out there. The structure shows firm tannins
and fine acidity, true to its mountainous origins. Keep
this in your cellar for at least six years, and as many as
20. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $75
95
Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer Dr.
Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Dusty tannins and notes of dried herbs
give this vigorous young Cabernet a mark of immaturity
that strongly suggests time in the cellar, despite flashy
blackberry and black currant flavors. The winery has
done a great job with fruit from the Dr. Crane Vineyard
for several years, and this majestic wine is right up there
with the great ’07 vintage. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $135
95
Sequoia Grove 2008 Cambium (Napa
Valley). An extraordinary wine, this is one of
the best offerings from Sequoia Grove. Everything is
pitch-perfect: Its fine, ripe fruit flavors of blackberry,
blueberry and black currant are balanced with earthy,
herbal tones; its tannins are soft and rich, with a sharp
acidity and a tasteful overlay of oak. Delicious as it is
now, you’ll want to cellar this wine for at least six years.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $125
95
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This
is a thouroughbred, elegant sparkler. With its delicate
acidity, apple and grapefruit flavors, and tense, steely
texture, it is an extremely well-blanced wine. Although
it is ready to drink now, it could certainly age in bottle
for many years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $135
95
Viader 2009 Red (Napa Valley). Made from
70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet
Franc, it has every hallmark of a young Napa Valley Bordeaux blend. It’s dry, smooth and complex in tannins,
with balancing acidity and an incredible array of flavors,
including blackberry, black currant, cherry, chocolate,
dried herb, smoky oak and spice. It has that important
but hard-to-define quality of sophistication. It’s delicious now, and it should develop in the bottle for at least
10 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $115
95
95
Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Unbelievably rich and decadent, this tastes of
honey drizzled over crushed ripe pineapples, guavas
and pears. Added hints of buttered toast, vanilla bean,
caramel and sweet cream come with scads of savory pie
spices. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $95
Schramsberg 2005 J. Schram (NapaMendocino-Sonoma-Marin). This fourcounty blend is a selection of what the winemakers
consider their best lots of the vintage. Made from 86%
Chardonnay and 14% Pinot Noir, it most certainly
needs some time in the cellar, as it’s scoury right now.
But its richness is already apparent: it shows complex
toast, leesy yeast, crème brûlée, lemondrop sour candy
and ripe pear flavors. A gorgeous sparkling wine that
will benefit from at least 12 years of aging. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $115
94
Bella 2009 Barrel 32 Zinfandel (Sonoma
County). Bella’s quartet of new 2009 Zinfandels is their best ever. This small-production wine, a
best-of-barrels selection from their various vineyards, is
softly tannic and silky, and its flavors of wild berry, currant, cola, spice and sandalwood should be enjoyed now.
The mouthfeel is utterly luxurious, offering the best elements of a Napa Valley cult Cabernet, with the briary,
rustically chic qualities of Zinfandel. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
94
Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Selection Chardonnay (Edna Valley). This is the
winery’s small-production, high-end Chardonnay, which
shows the brilliant essence of Edna Valley. Few Chardonnays in the state are this streamlined, low in alcohol, crisp and minerally. An accomplishment in this day
and age of fat, oaky bottlings, this has a steely taste that
is relieved by subtle hints of lime, vanilla and buttered
toast. Only 600 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $40
94
Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A richly
detailed riot of flavors, this outstanding Pinot Noir offers notes of lavender and rosemary on the nose and
flavors of strawberry and raspberry on the palate, with
hints of beetroot, clean earth and anise. The finish adds
a lingering, resonant flavor of pastis. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $45
94
Le Cadeau 2010 Diversité Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Among an outstanding lineup
of well-defined, beautifully refined Pinots from Le Cadeau, the Diversité takes top honors. Sourced from the
winery’s vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains, it shows
excellent varietal character, with exceptional depth and
detail. It beautifully melds the notes of mixed red fruit,
light earth, and sensitively-applied barrel. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate
Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Perhaps the best
of a stellar lineup from Trisaetum, this off-dry estate
bottling is packed with grapefruit and pineapple flavors.
They run tart and deep into the palate, full and focused,
with the vineyard’s signature minerality. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $24
94
93
Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Chryseia
(Douro). Still an icon of Douro reds, this is
marked by elegance. The fruit blends effortlessly with
the acid-laced, firm tannins. It has fine potential for aging over at least five years. Premium Port Wines, Inc.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
94
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Cyrus
(Alexander Valley). This Bordeaux-style
blend, based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, is
the winery’s best in years. It shows the soft tannins
and herbal quality of Alexander Valley Cabs, yet is rich
enough in blackberry, currant and oak to satisfy. Its tannin structure feels elegant, with layers of complexity to
accompany fine cuisine. Drink now–2015 for its freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
94
94
Jarvis 2009 Will Jarvis’ Science Project
(Napa Valley). Although this wine’s price has
increased over the years, its quality has remained constant. It’s an unusual blend of 95% Cabernet Franc and
5% Merlot, with firm tannins and a cut of fresh acidity,
giving it a rich cherry intensity. The sheer luxury of the
mouthfeel alone merits this wine’s high score. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $125
Sequoia Grove 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
A very fine Cabernet, rich, ripe and complex, from a
very expensive neighborhood. The wine shows its pedigree in the refined, silky and satiny texture. Its flavors
are simply gorgeous, with mineral-infused black currant
notes. But the wine is still young and tannic. Give this
cellar candidate 6–8 years, and it could go well beyond
that. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
93
Bella 2009 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). This is rich and ripe in
blackberry, currant, mocha, tobacco, cola and spice. It
has a beautiful texture, feeling softly tannic and velvety,
seemingly frictionless on the palate yet with fine grip.
The head-trained vines are at least 50 years old. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
WineMag.com | 5
93
93
Knights Bridge 2010 West Block Chardonnay (Knights Valley). This wine has varied over the years, but with the cool 2010 vintage, it
really shows how fine its terroir can shine. A full degree of alcohol lower than the 2009, it’s bone dry, brisk
in acidity, and stimulating in its minerally taste and texture—like a lick of cold steel. There is a fortunate streak
of Meyer lemon candy that lends enough richness to
satisfy. Reminiscent of a fine Chablis, it’s drinking well
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
93
93
Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve
(Champagne). It’s rare to find a nonvintage
blend with such attractive bottle age; in most the fruitiness dominates. This has a toasty character, with an almond note and a ripe mouthfeel that balances its warm
pear and yellow-fruit flavors. This demonstrates a full,
rich style. Remy Cointreau USA. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
Gallo Signature Series 2010 Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Richness and delicacy commend this Pinot. Part of a new line from the
venerable E.&J. Gallo, this wine is quite successful, especially at this price. It’s rich and fruity, with impressive
depth and length, and its finish is long, spicy and oaky.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
93
Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). The grapes
for this estate Chardonnay are sourced from the winery’s
vineyards way up in the Vaca Mountains. This is a flashy
wine, showing the ripe tropical fruit, cream, smoke,
honey and buttery qualities of a fine Chardonnay.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $58
Knights Bridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). An extraordinarily
ripe, graceful Cabernet, rich and forward in blackberry, cassis and dark chocolate flavors. It feels velvety and
refined, with that hard-to-define quality of importance
that characterizes the best wines. It should develop bottle complexity over the years, but it’s so fresh and delicious that it’s fine to drink now too. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $115
93
Lagar de Bezana 2008 Single Vineyard
Limited Edition Syrah (Alto Cachapoal).
Superpretty aromas of earth, balsam wood, coconut,
graphite and blackberry comprise the excellent bouquet. It feels full and shows great definition, with smoky
dark-berry flavors and notes of licorice and pepper.
It’s elegant on the finish for such a muscular, modern
Syrah. Drink now–2016. One of Chile’s best Syrahs.
Vino Del Sol. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
93
Le Cadeau 2010 Équinoxe Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). With its tangy cherrypie and plum flavors, its excellent concentration and its
accents of red licorice and loam, this is a flavorful and
complex wine that’s set in an elegant frame of acid and
tannin. It takes full advantage of the refined style that
the 2010 vintage has made possible. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
93
Le Cadeau 2009 Côte Est Reserve Pinot
Noir (Oregon). Tasted alongside the winery’s
light and elegant 2010 Pinots, this 2009 Reserve boldly stands out. The fleshy, black fruit flavors are bigger
and fuller across the palate than those from the later
vintage. The finish is streaked with a cola note and will
leave you reaching for the bottle as soon as your glass is
empty. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
93
Liparita 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). A beautiful Cabernet, showing
classic Oakville ripeness in its flavors of black and red
berry, currant and spice. There’s also a fine, tangy note
of green olive that brings an earthiness to the fruit. The
structure is seamless, the tannins smooth and flashy.
Drinkable now, and should develop for at least 10 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $60
92
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Macauley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). The question with this dramatic Cabernet is: How will it age? It’s a big wine, dry
and impressively rich in blackberry, black currant, dark
chocolate and crème de cassis. It’s also tannic, and the
considerable new oak hasn’t fully integrated yet. If you
have a good cellar, stash it away until 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $72
92
Bella 2009 Big River Ranch Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). This is dry, rich, heady, spicy
and utterly delicious. As usual, it contains a splash of
Petite Sirah. Already throwing some sediment, it’s pretty tannic, with complex flavors of wild blackberry and
blueberry, black currant, licorice, cola, bacon and plum
sauce, with a hint of exotic pepper and spice. This great
Zinfandel is a joy to drink. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.7%
H. Blin 2002 Blin’s Édition Limitée Millésime Extra Brut (Champagne). Tight
acidity dominates this top cuvée from Blin, and between
that and its strong citrus character, it needs time to
breathe before drinking. Then it fills out with delicious,
refreshing acidity, followed by a crisp finish. Robert
Houde Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
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Miguel Torres 2008 Manso de Velasco
Viñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). This is as stout as they come, with excellent depth, structure and pulse, all of which make it a
prime cellar candidate. It shows balsamic aromas of cedar, spiced berry and earth. The mouthfeel is ripe and
smooth, with grip and power held in reserve. It tastes of
chocolaty berry fruit and savory herb, and it’s warm and
roasted on the finish. Drink from 2013–2018. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Privilegio (Irpinia). A precious passito dessert wine made
partly from Fiano, this is redolent of honey, candied
fruit and sweet almond. The palate is creamy and soft,
with a sweet apricot overtone and a touch of fresh acidity. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $60/500 ml
Hoopes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). The tannins are tough as nails on
this 100% Cabernet, so even though it has a beautiful
core of blackberries and cassis, it isn’t drinkable now.
Such is the purity of the structure that the wine should
easily hold its own for 10–12 years, throwing sediment
and gathering mellow sweetness. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
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Trisaetum 2010 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This is a firm wine,
tightly-wound, with whiffs of mineral and cement. Plum
and cherry flavors mingle with notes of dried herb, earth
and brown spice. The wine rolls along into a lengthy finish, with excellent body and balance. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2009 Hekate
Passito (Sicilia). The folks at Feudo Arancio
Stemmari have been playing around with this dessert
wine’s blend for a number of years. They have achieved
impressive results with this vintage, which boasts a dark
golden color and intense aromas of honey, candied fruit
and peach. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $31/500 ml
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Hypothesis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Ripe, smooth and flashy, this
Cab easily stands beside more expensive bottlings. It
has that Napa Valley quality of elegant complexity and
dryness. The cool vintage has resulted in intense blackberry and currant flavors, while preserving vital acidity
and brisk tannins. Oak adds the perfect touch of smokywood sweetness. Drink this fancy Cabernet over the
next 4–5 years. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 15%
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Iron Horse 2007 Ocean Reserve (Green
Valley). A beautiful sparkling wine that shows
the Iron Horse signature of balanced elegance. The
lime, raspberry, vanilla and brioche flavors are rich and
intricate, but particularly lovely is the texture, which is
soft and silky. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Iron Horse 2007 Russian Cuvée (Green
Valley). One of the winery’s sweeter sparkling
wines, this one’s mostly Pinot Noir, which accounts
for the full-bodied flavors of raspberries. One-quarter
Chardonnay brings refreshing lime acidity. Beautiful
for drinking now with sweetly buttered shellfish dishes
or, if you’re in a splurgy mood, toast points with caviar.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Jarvis 2008 Lake William Estate Grown
Cave Fermented (Napa Valley). Directly
from the bottle, this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend
is tight and closed. The tannins and acids dominate, despite a wealth of sweet fruit flavors like blackberry, cherry and cassis. In all respects, especially structurally, it’s a
pedigreed wine. Have faith in its future, and cellar it for
eight years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $155
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Le Cadeau 2010 Côte Est Pinot Noir (Oregon). An elegant version of the Côte Est, this
is an Oregon Pinot sourced from the winery’s vineyard
in the Chehalem Mountains that’s bursting with juicy
goodness. It’s a wine with finesse, full of tart fruit flavors
like cranberry and cherry, tight and well-suited for 10
or more years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
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Liparita 2009 V Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). Hard tannins and a brooding toughness mask the fruit on this wine, hiding the
black cherry and currant under a cloak of dry astringency. However, it seems to have all the pieces in place to
age gracefully. Should be fine by 2018–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $60
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MacRostie 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Give this wine some time in the decanter to let it aerate. After an hour or two, a smooth,
silky Pinot Noir will emerge, ripe in flavors of cherrypie filling and spice, with fine acidity and gentle tannins.
With grapes from four vineyards, it shows a mastery of
the art of blending. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
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Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).
This is the winery’s top Cabernet. The ’09 is very ripe,
rich and forward, offering powerful blackberry, cherry
and currant flavors that are wrapped into soft, gentle
tannins. It’s quite good, but it needs a couple of years in
the bottle. Best around 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $75
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Summers 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Calistoga). This is a rich, well-structured
Cabernet, but such are the tannins that it needs time
in the cellar. The cool vintage was kind to the Calistoga
fruit, keeping the alcohol modest and the tannins hefty,
while allowing the grapes to develop intense flavors of
blackberry and black currant. Give it 6–8 years in a
good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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Viu Manent 2009 Viu 1 (Colchagua Valley). As always, this is among the best Malbecs
Chile has to offer. The nose is concentrated and packed
with huge aromas of black fruit, vanilla and earthy tobacco. It feels pure and incredibly deep, with beefy berry and toasted plum flavors. The chewy, easy-to-like finish is mellow. Drink now–2017. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Altemasi 2004 Graal Riserva Brut (Trento). Made by the folks at the important wine cooperative Cavit, this elegant metodo classico sparkling
wine offers a pretty bouquet of toasted bread, apricot,
honey, dried herb and citrus. It shows a smooth, fine
quality with refreshing acidity on the close. Palm Bay
International. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
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Feudi di San Gregorio 2009 DUBL Brut
Greco (Campania). The impressive natural structure and staying power of Greco make this a
creamy and sophisticated metodo classico sparkling
wine, with aromas of honey, pear and Golden Delicious
apple. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
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Herdade do Esporão 2009 Esporão
Reserva (Alentejo). This is Esporão’s flagship estate wine blend, a rich summation of the warm,
ripe fruit that’s produced on this Alentejo estate. With
big, powerful black fruit and a dense texture, this has
a rounded, solid and chunky feel, and the tannins are
cushioned by the ripeness. Age this for at least four
years. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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I Sodi 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo del Chianti
Classico). This expression of Vin Santo—the
only way to complete a long dinner in Tuscany—shows
lovely aromas of sweet apricot, pressed flower, pine nut
and candied fruit. Due Fratelli Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50/500 ml
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Krutz 2011 Ceja Vineyard Magnolia Series Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Napa
Cabernet specialist Krutz has been assembling a good
record for Chardonnay in recent years, and with this
release, Krutz reaches into Sonoma Valley, with excellent results. Dry, crisp and creamy, this has vanilla and
yeast-accented citrus and peach flavors. It’s a Champagne-like Chardonnay, defined by elegance. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Chardonnay
(Los Carneros). Martin Ray’s Reserve Carneros Chardonnay is turning out to be a consistently great
wine for its price. This is dry, crisp in acidity and complex, showing classic, oak-tinged flavors that veer toward tropical fruits, pears and green apples. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Rodney Strong 2009 Symmetry Meritage
Red Wine (Alexander Valley). This is a luxuriously fruity wine to drink now with fancy beef dishes.
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, it shows a juicy softness
framing blackberry, cherry and oak flavors. Give it an
hour in the decanter to aerate and develop. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
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Symington Family Estates 2009 Vale do
Bomfim Reserva (Douro). Sourced from
old vines, this elegant offering shows delicious fruit and
great depth of flavor. The tannins slide easily into the
red berry note and layered acidity. It shows the structure of the Douro while maintaing an accessible style.
Premium Port Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Viña Requingua 2009 Potro de Piedra
Family Reserve Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). Year in and year
out, this ranks as a fine blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Look for a comported
nose with blackberry, cassis and earth tones. The palate
is layered and chewy, with deep, dense flavors of blackberry, licorice, spice and herb. Toasty and long on the
finish; drink now–2016. Puerto Viejo Wines. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 14%
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Viu Manent 2009 San Carlos Single Vineyard Malbec (Colchagua Valley). The bouquet shows pure, nicely extracted blackberry and leather
aromas. The palate is healthy and structured, with blackberry, toast and mild herb flavors. It remains warm,
spicy and composed on the finish. Drink now–2016.
Baystate Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Gloria Ferrer 2007 Blanc de Blancs
(Carneros). The vintage was a very good one
for Gloria Ferrer and especially for their Chardonnay,
which forms the basis of this bottling. It’s a rich sparkler,
dryish and elegant, with flavors of lime, pear, dough,
honey and vanilla. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $28
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Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Brut (Franciacorta). This fresh, creamy Chardonnay-based sparkler is making waves thanks to its crisp acidity and fullbodied mouthfeel. The balance is spot-on, with delicate
aromas of apricot, baked bread and sweet citrus that are
backed by smooth and persistent perlage. Terlato Wines
International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There’s lots
of richness to this Cabernet, a testimony to the sunny
ripeness of the vintage. It bursts with flavors of cassis
and blackberry and blueberry jam, complemented by
the toasty, smoky butteriness of oak barrels. It’s a lovely
wine to drink now with upscale fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $60
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Kelleher 2011 Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Showing how fine Sauvignon
Blanc can be in Napa Valley, this has citrus, melon and
honey flavors. It’s dry, creamy and rich in vanilla flavor,
with a bright edge of acidity. A touch of oak adds a note
of smoke. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Although new oak accounted for only 25% of the barrels
used, the oakiness stands out in the form of buttered
toast and popcorn. But these interventions work well
because the underlying Chardonnay itself is rich and
strong in tropical fruit flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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Rosé (Campania). Native Aglianico grapes
give this metodo classico sparkling wine its pretty pink
color. Aromas recall wild berry, stone fruit and pink
grapefruit. The quality of the perlage is steady, bright
and tonic. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $43
Iron Horse 2007 Brut X (Green Valley).
This wine is a little scoury in the mouthfeel,
with big bubbles that give it some roughness, but otherwise it is a fine brut. Among the driest of the winery’s
new releases, it shows citrus, tropical fruit and yeast flavors, with firm acid. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
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Quevedo 2009 Cláudia’s Reserve (Douro). This manages to be rich, smooth, complex
and full bodied without losing any of its fruitiness. The
tannins are enveloped by its ripe, generous texture.
Worth aging a year, but you can also drink it now. P.R.
Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Sequoia Grove 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). Restrained, vibrant and dry, this shows
herb-inflected tropical fruit and citrus flavors, with a
yeasty note of lees. Oak lurks subtlely and tastefully in
the background. Bone dry, this is more elegant than opulent, making it food friendly. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Symington Family Estates 2009 Altano
Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). The
flagship of the Altano range, this single-vineyard wine,
aged in new wood, has beautiful smooth tannins to accompany its ripe berry fruits. It’s open, rich and concentrated, and it could well age for 3–4 years. Vineyard
Brands. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Valter Sirk 2010 Rebula Ribolla Gialla
(Goriška Brda). Hints of smoke and nut add a
savory tone to the concentrated fig, pear and tangerineskin flavors. Richly textured on the palate, with bold,
brisk acidity, it finishes long with citrus oil and white
blossom notes. Vias Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Miguel Torres 2011 Santa Digna Estelado Rosé (Central Valley). This might be
Chile’s best sparkling wine, made entirely from País, the
so-called Mission grape. It’s well balanced, with strawberry, raspberry, nectarine and plum aromas. It feels
surprisingly elevated and classy, expressing a range of
fruits, including cherry, cantaloupe and plum. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Martin Ray 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Dry, creamy and crisp in acidity,
this has rich pineapple, lemon, lime and buttered toast
flavors. It’s easy to drink and enjoy. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Dalliance 2010 Red Wine (Lake County).
This hodgepodge of Zinfandel, Syrah, Tempranillo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, all
grown in Lake County, will please many palates. It’s a
subtle and satisfying red marked by sweet tannins, a soft
mouthfeel and rounded notes of cherry, plum and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). The tough
and chewy tannins make this hard to appreciate now,
despite its strong core of black cherry jam. Upon decanting, the structure softens slightly and more complex
fruits, herbs and spices emerge. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $80
Korbel 2010 Brut Made With Organically Grown Grapes (California). With a pale
straw color, this brut is properly dry and crisp, although
it does have a honey-sweet richness. It shows citrus
and pear flavors, with the yeasty, doughy earthiness of
a good sparkling wine. A little scoury and fairly priced,
it’s a fine bubbly to drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Korbel NV Brut (California). This nonvintage brut is almost always a successful bottling
for Korbel. This release will not disappoint: It’s a fine
sparkling wine, dryish, crisp and rich in flavors of orange, lime, vanilla and yeast, with a hint of strawberry.
—S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Korbel NV Chardonnay (California). This
is Korbel’s Chardonnay-based sparkling wine,
and it showcases the house style of clean acidity, slight
sweetness and scouring bubbles. The Chardonnay
shines through in its typical notes of lime and kiwi fruit.
—S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Shannon Ridge 2011 High Elevation Collection Chardonnay (Lake County). Nuanced yet straightforward, this is deliciously simple in its
approach. Notes of honey, vanilla and stone fruit shine
most brightly, and the finish teases with a tropical misting of coconut. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
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Zinfandelic 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Amador County). This Zinfandel takes time
to unlayer, but once it does, the combination of leather
and blackberry is tasty, and the finish is pleasantly spicy.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
SPIRITS
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Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone
Falanghina (Campania). This fragrant Falanghina shows bright aromas of white flower, jasmine
and honeysuckle. Very subtle tones of banana and pineapple fill in the back and give the wine momentum and
depth on the finish. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Arehucas Ron Miel Guanche
(Spain; Copa Spirits, Jacksonville, FL). From Spain’s sunny Canary Islands, this honey-sweetened
7-year-old rum has a lovely sweet-spice
scent akin to chai tea, a sweet vanillabean—almost dulce de leche—flavor and
a honeyed finish that coats the tongue.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
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SIP 2011 Moscato (California). This is the
kind of wine that has made Moscato so popular.
It’s sweet in flavors of white sugar, honey, tangerines,
lemon meringue pie and vanilla bean. Its crisp acidity
is bright, and its alcohol is low. Pair it with tangy food.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
BEST BUYS
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Orion Wine NV Rosa Bianca Brut (Veneto). Fresh and informal, this opens with tangerine aromas, followed by notes of passion fruit, citrus and
white flower. It’s easy and fresh, with tonic bubbling on
the close. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Vigilance 2011 Chardonnay (Red Hills
Lake County). Full and fleshy, with a tropical edge, this is creamy in its vanilla and almond paste
flavors. With its layers of depth and richness, this is a
crowd-pleaser. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Calcu 2010 Cabernet Franc (Colchagua
Valley). Dark in color, this smells great, with
cassis, plum and black cherry aromas, bearing very little herbal character. It feels tight and secure, with ripe
blackberry, tobacco and oak flavors. Global Vineyard
Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
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Edi Sim i
2010 Giocato
Pinot Grigio (Primorska).
There’s a stunning mineral-driven edge to
this concentrated Pinot Grigio. Full bodied yet elegant, it boasts fresh pear and
melon flavors and a bristling lime-juice
acidity. August Wine Group. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Jammy
red-berry aromas come with a hint of lemony oak. It
feels meaty, with a rich texture for a $12 wine. Flavors
of roasted black fruits come with an overriding peppery
note and a touch of heat, but overall the wine is sturdy,
flavorful and balanced. Palm Bay International. Best
Buy. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 14.5%
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Mirassou 2011 Chardonnay (California).
There’s a lusciousness to this Chardonnay that
makes it really easy and fun to drink. It’s rich in orange
marmalade, honey, buttered popcorn and vanilla flavors, brightened with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Smooth
on the nose, this has cassis and berry aromas that fill
out nicely with air. On the palate, it has a solid spine. A
creamy oak flavor blends nicely into raspberry and cassis notes. This shows Cabernet’s spice on the finish, with
an herb accent. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Bomfim (Douro). This big, bold, structured
offering is full of ripe blackberry flavor and integrated
tannins. It is intensely rich and already delicious. Bomfim is the main winery for the Dow Port brand. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011
Sauvignon Blanc (California). This is a stylish Sauvignon Blanc, bearing nice lemon and lime flavors, with a rich notes of tropical fruit and honey. The
finish is clean and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $8
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Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (California).
Slightly sweet, with scouring bubbles, this is
one of Korbel’s fuller-bodied sparklers. It’s rich and delicious in raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and dough flavors. For such a nice bubbly, this comes at an excellent
price. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Line 39 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast).
Bright and lemony, this has tight acidity and layers of toasty caramel and vanilla. This will pair with a
wide range of dinner options and would make for a worthy go-to midweek wine. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante
(California). This is overtly sweet, with a sugary edge to its vanilla and tangerine flavors. It has the
clean quality you’d expect from a Barefoot sparkling
wine, and will appeal broadly to the Moscato-loving
crowd. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $11
WineMag.com | 13
BEST BUYS
GEORGIA
DRY HUNGARIAN WINES
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Telavi 2009 Marani Kondoli Vineyards
Saperavi (Kakheti). Floral and herbaceous
on the nose, there’s an abundant freshness to the red
plum and pomegranate flavors on this elegant Saperavi.
Dry in style, with brisk acidity, it balances a crisp, fruity
profile with a backbone of coarse tannins. Corus LLC.
—A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Barefoot Bubbly NV Pink Moscato (California). What a delicious, easy-to-like bubbly.
It’s definitely on the sweet side, but crisp in acidity, with
raspberry jam, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. It will
pair nicely with ham sandwiches, fried chicken, fresh
fruit. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $11
Telavi 2008 Marani Mukuzani Saperavi
(Kakheti). Smooth and supple, with loads of
juicy, ripe blackberry and plum flavors, this full-bodied,
luscious red is another great bang-for-your-buck Georgian offering. Big, bold tannins persist on the palate
that’s laced with tasty, lingering notes of coffee and dark
chocolate. Perfect with winter braises and stews. Corus
LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Telavi 2010 Marani Rkatsiteli-Chardonnay (Kakheti). Brisk minerality and a hint of
hazelnut add savory tones to this blend of indigenous
Georgian Rkatsiteli and Chardonnay. It’s dry and fullbodied, yet surprisingly sprightly, with bright acidity
and delicate flavors of stone fruit and citrus rind. Corus
LLC. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
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Arrogant Frog 2010 Lily Pad Noir Pinot
Noir (Pays d’Oc). Vibrant notes of red cherry,
plum and blueberry are partnered with earthy hints of
forest floor and cocoa. This is a solid selection that’s perfect for entertaining. It’s well balanced, with light tannins, lifted acidity and a medium-length, black-pepperkissed finish. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
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Royal Muscato NV Pink (Vin Mousseux).
Muscat’s typical sweetness and delicacy give this
an attractive balance of crisp acidity and ripe raspberry flavor. It’s light, lively and intensely fruity. Patriarche
USA. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $8
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Telavi 2008 Satrapezo Saperavi (Kakheti). A rich, earthy mushroom note adds a rustic
flair to this dark, ripe, full-bodied red. The palate is a
shade sanguine, with hints of game and plum conserve
and a ripple of velvety tannins. It’s developing beautifully, so drink now–2015. Corus LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Telavi 2009 Satrapezo 10 Qvevri Rkatsiteli (Kakheti). Notes of rose and waxy flower
mingle with savory nut and nut skin on this traditionally-made Georgian wine. Long maceration on the skins
in clay vessels gives it a deep, golden hue, and a concentrated palate, with flavors of tangerine, crushed stone
and a bristle of grape-skin astringency. Corus LLC.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Wine Man 2010 Saperavi (Kakheti). Dark,
fleshy black-fruit and cocoa notes on the nose
and palate get a blast of zestiness from the persistent
cranberry and spice flavors. It is full-bodied, with a firm
layer of tannins that grip tightly on the finish. Corus
LLC. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Telavi 2009 Marani Tsinandali White
(Kakheti). While aromatically subdued, this
is a refreshing, easy-drinking white blend, with pleasant lemon and apple flavors. A hint of orange peel and
a brisk, lime-accented acidity highlight the midpalate.
Drink now. Corus LLC. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Eszterbauer 2011 Nagyapám Kadarka
(Szekszárd). Ripe raspberry, cherry and violet
aromas shine on this standout red. Full-bodied in style,
the palate is pristine, with ripe red fruit that’s balanced
by zippy cranberry acidity. Finishes long with a murmur
of velvety tannins. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Sauska 2010 Birsalmás Furmint (Tokaj).
Notes of smoked hazelnuts mingle with scents
of ripe pear and yellow flower on this dry, full-bodied
wine. It’s richly oaked, but bright, lemony acidity and
chalky minerality add balance. It finishes on a rich note
of sweet cream and butter. Opici Wines. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $43
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Sz ke Matyás 2011 Zöld Veltelini Grüner
Veltliner (Mátra). A note of white, waxy flower
and a wisp of smoke on the nose introduce intense flavors of tangerine, lime and peppery leaf on the palate.
Bright acidity and a glimmer of wet stone linger on the
finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. Best Buy. —A.I.
Price: $13
abv: 13%
88
Chateau Dereszla 2011 Semi-Dry (Tokaji). A hefty dose of Muscat makes this Tokaji
blend particularly flamboyant on the nose, with loads of
sweet, waxy honeycomb and yellow flower aromas. It’s
a shade off-dry, but steely acidity and a tart tangerine
flavor cut through the sweetness, leaving only a touch
of honey on the finish. Cognac One, LLC. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
88
Pfneiszl 2010 Újra Együtt Kekfrankos
(Sopron). This Hungarian Kekfrankos, or
Blaufränkisch, packs quite a punch on the nose and palate, with ebullient red-fruit notes that are melded with
hints of green herb, briar and smoke. It is delicately
structured but remarkably complex through its long,
lingering finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Royal Tokaji 2010 Furmint (Tokaj). Sweet
honeysuckle and caramelized sugar notes are
enticing on this dry yet honey-flavored Furmint. Fullbodied, it features concentrated honeydew and apple
flavors and just a hint of green that lingers on the finish.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
87
Sauska 2009 Cuvée 107 (Tokaj). Waxy
lemon-skin and smoked nut flavors add dimension to the concentrated notes of orange, apple and
white flower on this dry, full-bodied blend of Hárslevelu and Chardonnay. It is bold in structure, with a rich,
round profile and a lusciously oaky finish. Opici Wines.
—A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
87
Sauska 2008 Cuvée 7 (Villány). Hints of
baking spice, smoke and black coffee add kick
to the sweet black-plum and cherry flavors on this fullbodied red blend. It’s a big, luscious wine, with abundant vanilla and toasted oak notes, but hints of fresh
herb and peppery black spice add balance. Opici Wines.
—A.I.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
87
Sz ke Matyás 2011 Irsai Oliver (Mátra).
Intense notes of white flower and lemon peel
perfume this lovely aromatic white. Dry on the palate,
with tart tangerine and lime flavors, it is marked by hints
of blossom and zesty lime pith. Crisp and tonic on the
finish. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Sz ke Matyás 2011 Pinot Gris (Mátra).
Savory notes of hazelnut skin and smoke are
countered by crisp white-peach and tangerine flavors on
this brisk, refreshing Pinot Gris. Dry in style with zesty
acidity, it finishes on a faintly astringent note of lemon
skin. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
91
Royal Tokaji 2005 Betsek Aszú 6 Puttonyos (Tokaj). Heady with notes of orange marmalade and lavender, this honeyed Tokaji is remarkably
brisk. Its showstopping acidity shines through the layers
of caramel and orange cream. Effortlessly long on the
palate, it is not at all cloying. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $104
90
Patricius 2006 Leonis Aszú 3 Puttonyos (Tokaj). Almost lacy on the palate, with
a crisp, delicate structure, this effortlessly drinkable
Tokaji is the perfect introduction to this genre of fine
wine. Ebullient with scents of lime skin, white flower
and waxy honeycomb, its sweet fig and caramel palate
is cut with brisk, pineapple-driven acidity. Blue Danube
Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
89
Chateau Dereszla 2011 Dry (Tokaji). A
delicate honeycomb flavor fringes pleasant apple and white flower notes on this dry, refreshing Tokaji
blend. Lemony acidity adds structure and length to the
finish. This is good introduction to Tokaji for those who
prefer a dry style. Cognac One, LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Sauska 2003 Aszú 6 Puttonyos (Tokaj).
Dark herb aromas are a unique addition to classic characteristics of honeysuckle, caramel and fig on
this unctuously rich Tokaji. It’s intensely honeyed, with
a creamy, custard-like mouthfeel, but it feels balanced
thanks to bright acidity and a long, floral finish. Opici
Wines. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $90
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Gere Attila 2011 Portugieser Blauer Portugieser (Villány). There’s plenty of ripe,
fleshy red fruit on the nose and palate of this red, accented by hints of black pepper and fresh green herb.
Soft and easy drinking, it has gentle acidity and tannins.
Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Gere Attila 2011 Weninger & Gere Rosé
(Villány). There’s a chalky minerality that carries from the nose to the palate of this bone-dry Hungarian rosé, adding a touch of elegance to the fresh red
cherry and raspberry flavors. It is easy drinking and balanced in structure. Drink now. Blue Danube Wine Co.
—A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
85
Sauska 2010 Cuvée 113 (Tokaji). Concentrated apple and pear flavors are flecked with
notes of honey and tangerine skin on this dry blend of
traditional Tokaji and international grapes. There’s a
trace vein of green, vegetal notes, but it’s refreshing and
easy drinking. Opici Wines. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
SWEET HUNGARIAN
WINES
93
Sauska 2003 Aszú Essencia (Tokaj). Essencia is the rare free-run juice from botrytized
Tokaji grapes, and if you’ve ever wondered what all the
fuss is about, this bottle is as reasonably priced as it gets.
It boasts an unctuously creamy palate that’s full of delicious honey, tropical fruit and vanilla-caramel notes.
It’s flecked with a white flower tone, with striking acidity that lingers on the finish. Opici Wines. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $150
Törley NV Fortuna Doux (Hungary). White
flower and pink bubblegum notes lend a slightly
confected tone to this semisweet Hungarian sparkling
wine, but it’s an undeniably drinkable, peach-flavored
sip, with sharp effervescence and a tasty sugar-cookie
finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $13
MACEDONIA
84
Macedon 2010 Pinot Noir (Tikves). Lavender and ripe black-cherry aromas are enticing
on this Pinot Noir. Dry and full bodied, it doesn’t have
a lot of concentration, but it’s softly fruity, with hints of
soil and autumn leaf. August Wine Group. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
ROMANIA
88
Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Rezerva Cabernet Sauvignon (Viile Timi ului).
Fresh herb and green flower flavors mingle with notes
of chocolate and sun-dried hay on this bold but impeccably balanced Cabernet. Intensly concentrated on the
palate, it has a ripe cassis flavor and soft, silky tannins
that linger. BCI LLC. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
88
Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Rezerva
Feteasca Regala (Viile Timi ului). Honeysuckle and sweet marzipan notes perfume this aromatic
white wine. Concentrated fresh peach and flower notes
on the palate are enlivened by a spray of lime-juice acidity and a murmur of salinity on the finish. A pretty wine
at an irresistible price. BCI LLC. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
88
Murfatlar 2011 Zestrea Demidulce Muskat Ottonel (Murfatlar). Aromas of sunny
citrus and apricot entice on this deliciously fruity Muskat Ottonel. Semidry in style, the palate is generously
sweetened with the juice of fresh yellow cherry and
peach. With so much zippy acidity, it finishes nearly dry.
Bozic’s Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
88
Murfatlar 2010 Zestrea Demidulce Feteasca Neagra (Murfatlar). Despite Romanian labeling standards, this demidulce is only a shade
off-dry. The palate is intensely juicy with a ripe cherry flavor that’s accented by layers of violet, fresh herb
and a striking crushed-granite minerality. Easygoing elegance for an incredible value price. Bozic’s Imports.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
88
Senator 2011 Mon er Sarba (Dealurile
Husilor). Ebullient on the nose and palate with
notes of spring blossom, ripe peach and yellow cherry,
this is a concentrated, effortlessly quaffable white wine
that balances fresh fruit flavor with striking acidity and
a glistening wet-stone minerality. Danex International.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
87
Murfatlar 2011 Trei Hectare Feteasca
Neagra (Murfatlar). Richly textured in flavor and structure, this is fleshy with ripe red fruit that’s
accented by soft tannins, dried lavender, and savory
smoked meat notes. Hints of dark chocolate and fresh
green herb cap off a long, juicy finish. Bozic’s Imports.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
87
Murfatlar 2010 Zestrea Demidulce Pinot
Noir (Murfatlar). Despite Romanian labeling standards, this fruity Pinot Noir is just the slightest
shade off-dry. Pleasantly jammy with sweet black-plum
and dried fig flavors, it’s concentrated in flavor yet delicate on its feet, with balanced alcohol and a bristle of
cranberry acidity. Bozic’s Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
87
Murfatlar 2011 Zestrea Demisec Feteasca Regala (Murfatlar). Hints of sun-dried
hay and honey add rustic charm to crisp yellow-peach
and apricot flavors on the nose and palate of this off-dry,
aromatic wine. Spritely with lemon-lime acidity, it finishes with a refreshing spray of cut green herb. Bozic’s
Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $11
87
Senator 2010 Varius Sauvignon Blanc
(Viile Cara ului). This is concentrated on the
nose and palate, with ripe, fleshy peach and a spray of
yellow flower. Dry and medium bodied, it features zesty
acidity and a hint of green herb on the finish. A great
value wine to be enjoyed now. Danex International.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
86
Cramele Recas 2011 Dreamfish Chardonnay (Recas). Pretty on the nose and palate with an abundance of spring flower, pineapple and
vanilla-cream notes, this dry, full-bodied Chardonnay is
easygoing but impeccably made. Judiciously oaked, it
WineMag.com | 15
finishes on a sweet-and-salty caramel note. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $6
86
Cramele Recas 2011 Paparuda Estate
Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Viile
Timi ului). Notes of cedar and violet meld with a ripe,
juicy black-fruit flavor in this bold, deeply concentrated
Cabernet. Softer and riper than the Rezerva, it has a
slightly grapey midpalate. It’s full-bodied in style, with
a frame of lush, furry tannins. BCI LLC. Best Buy.
—A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
vors are accented by hints of smoke, salted butter and
a beautiful crushed-stone minerality. It is dry and fullbodied with rich texture and sprightly acidity. August
Wine Group. —A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Valter Sirk 2010 Rebula Ribolla Gialla
(Goriška Brda). For full review see page 11.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
89
Edi Sim i 2010 Giocato Pinot Grigio
(Primorska). For full review see page 13. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
CASTEL DEL MONTE
92
Rivera 2006 Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia
(Castel del Monte). Named after King Federico II who left an important cultural mark on southern
Italy, Puer Apuliae (“the son of Puglia”) is an iconic wine
made using indigenous Nero di Troia grapes. The wine
opens with soft chocolate, ripe cherry, espresso, spice
and blackberry aromas. The mouthfeel is soft, plush and
firm. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
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87
Bastianich 2010 Adriatico Ribolla (Brda).
Impeccably refreshing, this Ribolla Gialla is full
of sweet, fresh apple and melon flavors. Chalky minerality and a shower of lemon-lime acidity add nerve and
elegance. Dark Star Imports. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Tormaresca 2008 Bocca di Lupo Aglianico (Castel del Monte). Bocca di Lupo is a
top-shelf red that offers enormous beauty and intensity in the form of ripe fruit, chocolate fudge, leather,
tobacco and blackberry pie. The tannins are tight and
firm, and the long finish is characterized by black cherry
and toasted espresso bean. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.
—M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
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TURKEY
89
Cramele Recas 2011 UnWineD Pinot Grigio (Viile Timi ului). Notes of sun-dried hay
and green flower highlight the nose and palate of this
fresh, easy-quaffing wine. Concentrated tangerine and
pineapple flavors are brisk and tasty. Cornerstone U.S.
Wine Imports. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $4
Murfatlar 2011 Trei Hectare Chardonnay
(Murfatlar). Green flower and herb notes lend
freshness to this dry, full-bodied wine. Firmly structured with pleasant white-peach and lemon flavors, it’s
straightforward and tasty. Drink now. Bozic’s Imports.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
Senator 2009 Monser Feteasca Neagra
(Dealurile Hu ilor). Lifted blackberry and
cherry aromas introduce this lush, full-bodied wine
that offers a black-cherry flavor. Savory hints of smoked
meat, soy sauce and bold, velvety tannins add structure
and dimension. Danex International. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
85
Murfatlar 2010 Trei Hectare Roze Cabernet Sauvignon (Murfatlar). Fresh red-cherry and strawberry flavors are vibrant on this dry, mouthquenching Romanian rosé. It is elegantly structured,
with a splash of lemon-lime acidity and a hint of herbaceous green on the finish. Bozic’s Imports. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
SLOVENIA
91
Edi Sim i 2006 Duet Lex (Goriška Brda).
Lifted blackberry and cherry aromas meld into
flavors of ripe black-fruit, violet and black pepper on
this bold, beautiful Bordeaux-style blend. It’s richly concentrated, with vibrant acidity and lush, furry tannins.
Generously spiced on the finish. August Wine Group.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
90
Edi Sim i 2010 Sauvignon (Goriška
Brda). Grassy, herbal notes add a pungent kick
to aromas of ripe yellow peach and melon on this gorgeously fruity, floral wine. Full-bodied in style, it has a
richly textured mouthfeel. August Wine Group. —A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Edi Sim i 2009 Chardonnay (Goriška
Brda). There’s so much nuance to this multifaceted Chardonnay. Sunny tangerine and apple fla16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012
Price: $12
Valter Sirk 2010 Malvazija (Goriška
Brda). A musky white-flower note melds into
savory notes of hazelnut oil and nut skin on the nose and
palate of this smoky, rather mysterious wine. Tart with
tangerine acidity, it’s refreshingly brisk but finishes long
with a hint of smoky vanilla. Vias Imports. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
88
Kayra 2009 Vintage Single Vineyard Collectible Series #5 Öküzgözü (Elazig). Exotic spice and savory meat tones add dimension to sultry
black-fruit and fig flavors. Dry and full bodied in style,
it’s richly textured with a bold yet velvety tannin structure. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —A.I.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
SOUTHERN ITALY
WHITE WINES
87
Antica Enotria 2011 Daunia Falanghina
(Puglia). This is a clear, bright and tonic white
wine from the deep south of Italy, showing aromas of
honeysuckle, pineapple and pear. The fruit used for this
easygoing white is farmed organically. Lettieri & Co.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
87
Orion Wine 2010 Rocca del Dragone Falanghina (Campania). For full review see
page 12.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Feudi di San Marzano 2011 Sud Verdeca
(Puglia). Made from the little-known Verdeca
grape, this easy white is aged in stainless steel to preserve the integrity and pureness of its fresh fruit aromas. Citrus, peach and honey appear on the bouquet,
and the wine is crisp on the close. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Torrevento 2008 Vigna Pedale Riserva
Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). There’s
a warm note of black cherry and chocolate fudge that
make a bold and intense first impression. The palate has
bitter almond and bright fruit flavors. This is a very nice
wine from the little-known Castel del Monte denomination. Majestic Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Rivera 2005 Cappellaccio Riserva Aglianico (Castel del Monte). This is a deep,
masculine Aglianico that opens with bold, inky concentration and intense aromas of blackberry preserves,
leather and spices. The tannins are rock solid, firm and
dry. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Santa Lucia 2008 Vigna del Melograno
Nero di Troia (Castel del Monte). There
are raw, bright qualities of cherry liqueur and raspberry
syrup that open the nose. It shows solid and polished
tannins. A Marc de Grazia selection; various American
importers. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Tormaresca 2008 Trentangeli (Castel del
Monte). Made principally from organicallyfarmed Aglianico grapes, this delivers steady aromas of
ripe fruit, prune, tobacco and cured meat. The mouthfeel is lean, bright and slightly bitter. Ste. Michelle Wine
Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
TAURASI
92
Mastroberardino 2006 Radici (Taurasi).
Radici is a landmark red wine for Italy, because
it shows the high-quality wine-making potential of the
south. A hearty and sophisticated expression of Aglianico, this opens with smoky aromas of crushed mineral,
black peppercorn, ripe fruit and cola. It shows firm tannins and impressive length. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
89
Terredora 2005 Fatica Contadina (Taurasi). This shows delicate tones of blue flower,
dried lavender, moist earth and tobacco leaf. There are
even touches of honey and roasted chestnut in the background. The mouthfeel is dry, firm and dusty. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $33
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SALENTO
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2006 Opera Mia
(Taurasi). This shows a bold, overdone bouquet of Indian spice, bitter chocolate, crushed clove
and black pepper. The tannins are firm and astringent,
and the wine leaves a huge impression on the palate: it’s
almost too much of a good thing. Fourcade & Hecht
Wine Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
PUGLIA
88
La Corte 2009 Solyss Old Vines Negroamaro (Salento). Here is a bold, meaty expression of Negroamaro, with flavors of ripe fruit, blackberry preserves, tobacco and soft chocolate. The mouthfeel
is soft, velvety and rich. Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
87
Villa Schinosa 2008 Laghiglione (Puglia). A blend of Primitivo and Syrah, this shows
bright aromas of cherry and blackberry, with a light
touch of exotic spice. The soft, easy, velvety mouthfeel
would pair well with roast pork or grilled sausage. Guidi
Marcello. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
83
Fatalone 2007 Teres Primitivo (Puglia).
The expression of this wine is so light that it
could probably be classified as a rosé, though its label
does not describe it as such. Made using organicallyfarmed fruit, it shows bright berry and white cherry flavors, with crisp acidity. Astor Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
SALICE SALENTINO
92
Leone de Castris 2007 Donna Lisa Riserva (Salice Salentino). This is a plush and
opulent blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera that
opens with bold aromas of blackberry preserves, chocolate, tobacco and spice. The wine is lush, balanced and
dense on the close. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
90
Leone de Castris 2006 Donna Lisa Riserva (Salice Salentino). This is a pretty wine
based mostly on Negroamaro with some Malvasia Nera,
showing a soft, velvety texture and sophisticated notes of
cherry liqueur and blackberry syrup. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
89
Cantele 2007 Riserva (Salice Salentino). A streamlined and elegant expression
of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, this doesn’t show
the cooked or jammy tones that are all too common in
southern Italian reds. Instead, the velvety finish is characterized by notes of tobacco and blackberry. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Li Veli 2007 Pezzo Morgana (Salice Salentino). Pezzo Morgana is a hearty red wine
that opens with savory aromas of ripe blackberry, leather and cured meat. The finish is smooth and rich. Dalla
Terra Winery Direct. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Botter 2010 Caleo Primitivo (Salento).
This easy-drinking Primitivo opens with dark,
inky concentration and sweet aromas of ripe fruit, cinnamon and nutmeg. The mouthfeel is plush, rich and
velvety soft. Total Wine & More. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2007 Cubardi Primitivo (Salento). Hearty and concentrated, this opens with savory aromas of cured meat,
blackberry and toasted espresso bean. There’s a sweet
note of black fruit on the close, followed by a soft,
chewy texture. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 15%
87
Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2007 Artetica (Salento). A blend of 70% Primitivo
and 30% Negroamaro, this opens with jammy aromas of
ripe blackberry, moist tobacco and milk chocolate. The
mouthfeel is rich and chewy, with a touch of bitter almond. Acid Inc Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
86
Feudi di San Marzano 2008 Sud Malvasia (Salento). This expression shows aromas
of bright cherry, cola and almond paste. It’s an easy, informal red wine, with a bitter touch on the close. Vin
Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
OTHER RED WINES
90
Tenuta del Portale 2004 Riserva (Aglianico del Vulture). There’s a soapy, floral
element to this wine that recalls lavender oil or rose
water. Aromas of crushed mineral, spice and leather are
all present. The mouthfeel is lean and compact, but it
also shows polished tannins. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Nero and Greco) that are cultivated in one of the most
isolated spots in southern Italy. Black cherry, chocolate
and exotic spice notes lend a soft, silky feel to the wine.
Vindagra USA. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
88
Verrone 2003 Aglianico (Cilento). Thanks
to its many years of bottle aging, this savory offering shows a sweet spice aroma, with candied raspberry and cinnamon overtones. The structure is firm and
steady, but there is a polished, smooth quality to the tannins. Bazzini Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
87
Lucania 2009 Gricos (Aglianico del Vulture). This is a clean and polished Aglianico that shows dark berry and plum aromas followed
by notes of tar, licorice and toasted nut. It has power
and structure, all for a very low price. Oliver McCrum
Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
87
Spadafora 2007 Nerello (Calabria). This
pretty red blend of Magliocco and Montonico
Nero opens with bright aromas of red cherry and blackberry. It shows nice firmness and medium consistency.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Spadafora 2008 Vigna Fiego (Donnici).
There’s a fresh, bright quality to this blend of
Magliocco, Greco Nero and Malvasia grapes. It delivers
aromas of crushed white pepper, prune and exotic spice.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Vesevo 2009 Aglianico (Beneventano).
This opens with sweet aromas of nutmeg and
cinnamon, with bright tones of cassis and white cherry in the background. The firm, fresh mouthfeel would
pair well with grilled meat or sausage. Vin Divino.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Vita Italia 2008 Primitivo di Manduria.
Here’s a simple and bright expression of Primitivo, offering aromas of blackberry, cherry and bitter
chocolate. It offers a chiseled, sharp mouthfeel. Villa
Italia. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
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85
Ognissole 2008 Primitivo di Manduria.
This wine, whose producer is owned by Campania’s celebrated Feudi di San Gregorio, bears a dense
consistency and pretty aromas of blackberry, cola, cherry and tobacco. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
Schola Sarmenti di Terrulenta 2008 Roccamora (Nardò). This delivers soft aromas of
leather, blackberry preserves, tobacco and dark chocolate. The grape is Negroamaro, and the wine’s mouthfeel is rich, velvety and smooth. Acid Inc Selections.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Fatalone 2006 Primitivo (Gioia del Colle).
Made using organically-farmed Primitivo
grapes, this features aromas of licorice, crushed granite
and candied fruit. The acidity is bright and lively. Astor
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $17
Fatalone 2004 Riserva Primitivo (Gioia
del Colle). This is an organic wine that offers
tertiary aromas of candied fruit, crushed stone and licorice. The mouthfeel is impressively chiseled, bright and
pristine. Astor Wines. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
88
Spadafora 2005 Telesio Riserva (Donnici). There’s a modern, velvety touch to this
blend of indigenous grapes (Magliocco, Montonico
WineMag.com | 17
ITALY
SPARKLING WINES
TRENTO
92
Ferrari 2001 Giulio Ferrari Riserva del
Fondatore (Trento). A landmark wine for
those who love Italian sparklers, this shows loads of ripe
apricot, melon and honey notes, with toasted nut and
baked bread hints in the background. There are also
touches of caramel and butterscotch that help move
the wine’s thick and opulent texture across the palate. It
ends with refreshing acidity and tonic perlage. Palm Bay
International. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $85
91
Altemasi 2004 Graal Riserva Brut (Trento). For full review see page 9.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
91
Ferrari NV Brut Rosé (Trento). Year after
year, this is a fantastic rosé sparkler that can be
served at informal and formal occasions alike. There’s a
yeasty note of baked bread followed by rose petal, stone
fruit and wild berry scents. The wine (60% Pinot Nero
and 40% Chardonnay) is creamy and rich on the palate.
Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
91
Ferrari 2006 Perlé (Trento). This is rich,
creamy and zesty at the same time, redolent
of citrus, peach, pear and Golden Delicious apple, followed by opulent tones of toasted nut and freshly baked
bread. Bright acidity brings the wine to a refreshing
close. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $33
90
Ferrari NV Brut (Trento). This bright sparkler delivers the sophisticated flavors of fresh
citrus and ripe apricot that one should expect in a metodo classico sparkler from Italy. Background notes of
honey and baked bread give it dimension and texture.
Palm Bay International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
DELLE VENEZIE
86
Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Pink
Pearl Rosé (Delle Venezie). Part of a series of sparkling wines from Piera Martellozzo, this is
a blend of Raboso and Pinot Nero. In fact, the wine’s
bright pink color comes from the former varietal and
its delicate floral bouquet from the latter. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
86
Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Silver Pearl Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie).
There aren’t too many sparkling Pinot Grigios, but this
is the one to try if you’re curious. It offers substance and
creaminess, with a subtle bouquet of citrus and stone
fruit. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 12%
85
Piera Martellozzo NV 075 Carati Müller-Thurgau (Delle Venezie). This fragrant
sparkler offers bright floral aromas of honeysuckle and
spring flower, with pretty tones of stone fruit and passion fruit. There’s a touch of fruity sweetness backed by
foamy, thick perlage. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
85
Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Yellow Pearl Ribolla Gialla (Delle Venezie). A
bright sparkling wine made from Ribolla Gialla grapes,
this has thick aromas of stone fruit, butterscotch and
caramel. The finish is fresh, with creamy effervescence.
Vinoterra Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
FRANCIACORTA
93
Fratelli Berlucchi 2005 Casa delle Colonne Zero Riserva Millesimato (Franciacorta). This beautiful sparkler rested on its lees for 70
months, giving it extra smoothness and rich denseness.
The bouquet is redolent of apricot, ripe fruit, melon and
lightly toasted baguette. The mouthfeel is long, elegant
and driven by fine perlage. Selected Estates of Europe
Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
92
Contadi Castaldi 2007 Brut Satèn (Franciacorta). Made from Chardonnay grapes,
this metodo classico opens with creamy aromas of apricot, honey, citrus and blanched almond. The wine feels
smooth, rich and silky on the finish, with small, elegant
perlage. Terra Moretti Trading. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
92
Fratelli Muratori 2004 Villa Crespia Riserva dei Consoli Brut (Franciacorta). A cuvée of the best Chardonnay grapes, this sparkler is rich
and smooth, with intense aromas of stone fruit, honey,
apricot and baked bread. The mouthfeel is long and satisfying, thanks to the persistence of the perlage. Wine
Wave. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $90
92
Le Marchesine 2007 Brut Millesimato
Blanc de Blancs (Franciacorta). Beautiful intensity and sophistication open the bouquet of
this wine. It shows an age-driven evolution of aromas
with background notes of candied fruit, apricot, Golden
Delicious apple, baked bread and honey. The perlage is
fine, softly textured and persistent. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
91
Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Pas Dosé (Franciacorta). This elegant sparkling blend of
Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero is toasty and
rich with aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious
apple and oven-toasted bread. The mouthfeel is supple
and rich, with fine pulses of effervescence and freshness. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
91
Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Satèn Millesimato (Franciacorta). There’s a very fine, elegant
quality to this sparkling wine, evident in both the bouquet and in the soft intensity of its perlage. Creamy and
rich, it delivers tones of Golden Delicious apple and
honey, with loads of peach and apricot. Selected Estates
of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
91
La Montina NV Satèn Argens (Franciacorta). There are subtle floral elements here
of yellow rose and jasmine that give this a feminine and
elegant personality. But the wine has substance and
staying power, too, in its flavors of stone fruit, melon
and toasted nut. The perlage is soft and steady, and a
pretty note of acidity appears on the finish. Vino Direct.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
91
Le Marchesine 2008 Satèn Millesimato
(Franciacorta). Creamy and rich, with bright
aromas of stone fruit, melon, drying mineral and honey, this beautiful Chardonnay-based sparkler shows the
best of Franciacorta. The mouthfeel is textured, fine
and long-lasting. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
90
Berlucchi NV Cuvée ’61 Brut (Franciacorta). For full review see page 10.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
90
Castello Bonomi NV Brut Satén (Franciacorta). Smooth and fresh, this Chardonnaybased sparker offers apricot, Golden Delicious apple,
honey and toasted almond. It shows a rich, thick personality capped by the freshness of its acidity and zesty
effervescence. GOS Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $46
90
Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Brut Millesimanto
(Franciacorta). This blend of 90% Chardonnay with Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero has a delicate and
feminine bouquet of white rose, stone fruit, citrus and
lightly toasted nut. It delivers a soft, fine texture with
steady perlage. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
90
Fratelli Berlucchi 2008 Brut Rosé Millesimato (Franciacorta). This is a delicate and
feminine rosé sparkler that opens with a beautifully pale
pink color and subtle aromas of wild berry, tangerine
skin, white almond and passion fruit. It shows elegance
on the palate, with fine perlage and tangy crispness. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $37
abv: 12.5%
90
Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Numero
Zero (Franciacorta). Exceptionally creamy
and rich, this beautiful Chardonnay-based sparker offers smooth consistency backed by stone fruit, citrus,
toasted almond and melon. The wine is characterized
by density and crispness. Wine Wave. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $39
90
Majolini NV Altèra Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). This has a beautiful pale-pink color,
and bears aromas of wild flower, bitter almond and forest berry, with a touch of herb. The wine offers steady
perlage and refreshing crispness. Franciacorta Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
90
Majolini 2006 Pas Dosé Millesimato
(Franciacorta). This lively sparkler opens with
ripe aromas of apricot, honey and candied fruit that are
backed by notes of freshly baked bread and toasted almond. Made from Chardonnay that rests on the lees for
three years, it also shows creamy richness on the finish.
Franciacorta Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
90
Majolini 2005 Brut Millesimato Electo
(Franciacorta). A sparkling blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, this opens with ripe aromas of
melon and peach, backed by a hint of almond skin and
a touch of zesty lemon rind. The fullness and generosity of the mouthfeel is capped by tonic, steady perlage.
Franciacorta Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $44
90
Ricci Curbastro NV Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). This beautiful rosé sparkler offers subtle aromas of peach, grapefruit, rose petal and wild berry. The quality of the perlage is bright, long and steady.
Domenico Valentino. —M.L.
Price: $50
abv: 12.5%
90
Ricci Curbastro 2007 Extra Brut (Franciacorta). Equal parts Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, this lovely sparkler opens with fresh aromas of
yellow rose, stone fruit and lemon zest. It shows lively
density, crisp freshness and drying mineral tones on the
close. Domenico Valentino. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47
90
Ricci Curbastro 2007 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). This is a lovely sparkling wine with
bright intensity and loads of fruit-based aromas. Based
on Chardonnay, it presents a uniform and generous
mouthfeel with cleansing, fine perlage. Imports Inc.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47
90
Villa 2006 Cuvette Brut Millesimato
(Franciacorta). Feminine and delicate, this
has pretty highlights of peach, citrus, white almond and
toasted bread. It feels creamy and generous, with tonic,
firm effervescence. Just Quality Importer. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
89
Castello Bonomi NV Cru Perdu Brut
(Franciacorta). Cru Perdu Brut is a blend of
70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero, with subtle intensity and delicate aromas of yellow flower, stone fruit,
apricot and lemon zest. There’s a touch of almond-like
bitterness on the close, with tight, even-flowing perlage.
GOS Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
89
Fratelli Berlucchi NV Brut 25 (Franciacorta). This Chardonnay-based sparkler offers aromas of yellow rose, apricot, honey and toasted almond.
Steely, firm perlage makes this a great wine to sip as
you socialize before a meal. Selected Estates of Europe
Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
Fratelli Muratori NV Villa Crespia Novalia Brut (Franciacorta). Creamy notes of almond paste, ripe apricot and lemon mousse open the
bouquet. Similar flavors follow on the palate, with crisp
acidity and steely effervescence. Wine Wave. —M.L.
Price: $33
abv: 12.5%
89
La Montina NV Brut (Franciacorta). Mostly
Chardonnay, with 15% Pinot Nero, this bright
sparkler opens with impressive aromatic intensity,
bearing notes of peach, passion fruit and lightly toasted almond. There’s a soft, creamy quality to the perlage, backed by fresh acidity on the finish. Vino Direct.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
89
Le Marchesine NV Extra Brut (Franciacorta). A classic sparkling blend, this fresh
offering shows a dry, steely side that is enhanced by a
citrus aroma and a dusty mineral tone. There’s a sharp
firmness to the perlage as well. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
89
Majolini NV Brut (Franciacorta). A blend
of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero, this
opens with dry aromas of almond, pear and stone fruit.
The wine delivers smoothness and medium texture,
with a tonic, bubbly close. Franciacorta Import. —M.L.
Price: $31
abv: 12.5%
89
Ricci Curbastro NV Brut (Franciacorta).
A sparkling blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero, this offers clean aromas of peach,
grapefruit and yellow rose. The finish is smooth, long
and capped by zesty effervescence. Domenico Valentino. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
89
Villa 2008 Satèn Brut Millesimato (Franciacorta). Offering aromas of citrus, stone
fruit, white almond and toasted baguette, this also has
a smooth, creamy density on the finish. The cleansing
perlage would pair well with shellfish or raw seafood.
Just Quality Importer. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
89
Villa 2007 Brut Millesimato (Franciacorta). This exceeds most Chardonnays’ qualities
of creamy freshness and background aromas of citrus
and stone fruit. The perlage is lively and persistent,
and the wine ends with a blast of lemon freshness. Just
Quality Importer. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $37
88
Fratelli Berlucchi NV Brut 25 (Franciacorta). Named for the number of months it takes
to go from grape to glass, Brut 25 is a steely, tonic wine,
with bright aromas of citrus, pear and peach. Selected
Estates of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
88
Ronco Calino NV Brut (Franciacorta). Luminous and bright, with an intense bouquet of
citrus and yellow rose, this pretty Italian sparkler keeps
the palate refreshed and clean. The finish is dry, crisp
and zesty. Michael Skurnik Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
87
La Montina NV Rosé Demi Sec (Franciacorta). A blend of 60% Pinot Nero and 40%
Chardonnay, this pretty off-dry sparkler delivers floral
aromas of jasmine and pink rose, with sweet notes of
marzipan and honey at the back. The perlage is smooth
and creamy. Vino Direct. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $29
PROSECCO
88
Canevel 2011 Brut (Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). A tiny percentage of Chardonnay gives this lightly fragrant sparkler extra dimension and smoothness on the finish.
Bright and easygoing, it offers citrus, peach and Golden Delicious apple aromas. Selected Estates of Europe
Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
87
Piera Martellozzo NV Perle di Piera Blue
Pearl (Prosecco). This pretty expression of
Prosecco opens with distinct aromas of white flower,
honey and passion fruit. The quality of the perlage is
firm and bright, with a steady delivery of mouth-cleansing effervescence. Vinoterra Importers. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 11%
86
Bocelli NV Prosecco. From Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli and his family (vintners in Tuscany
for 130 years) comes this bright, cheerful sparkler. It
shows crisp acidity, ease, tonic effervescence and overall
harmony. August Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
86
Botter NV Bolle (Prosecco). “Bolle,” which
is Italian for “bubbles,” plays up its cheerful and
playful side with bright aromas of citrus, peach, passion
fruit and green apple. It washes down easily thanks to
the wine’s natural acidity. Total Wine & More. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
86
Botter NV Santinello (Prosecco). Fresh,
fun and informal, this bright offering opens with
easy aromas of citrus, green apple and peach. The bubbling is steady and tonic, followed by fresh acidity. Total
Wine & More. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
86
Botter NV Tesoro della Regina (Prosecco). Here’s an easy and fresh Prosecco that
would wash down with appetizers or light chicken salad. The bright sparkler delivers aromas of citrus, pear
and white flower, followed by firm, steely perlage. Total
Wine & More. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 11%
86
Tommasi NV Filodora Brut (Prosecco).
A new product from the Tommasi family (celebrated for its Amarone and other hearty red wines),
this is light and fresh, with aromas of citrus, stone fruit
and white flowers. Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
86
Voveti NV Prosecco. Fresh, fragrant and
light, this delivers a touch of sweetness, followed by aromas of citrus, white flowers and peach. It’s
crisp, easy and bright on the finish, with steely effervescence. Freixenet USA. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
WineMag.com | 19
85
Bellussi NV Enrico Brut (Prosecco).
Here’s a well-priced wine that offers drying
tones of crushed stone and flint, with background notes
of green apple and citrus. The wine is tonic and crisp
overall. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —M.L.
Price: $11
abv: 11%
85
Bellussi NV Enrico Extra Dry (Prosecco).
Touches of sweet peach and honey open the
bouquet of this easygoing, well-priced sparkler. Pair this
with barbecued shrimp or tempura vegetable appetizers. Jack Poust & Co., Inc. —M.L.
Price: $11
abv: 11%
85
Botter NV Prosecco. Cheerful, fragrant and
bright, this opens with aromas of lemon blossom, white almond and stone fruit. It shows tonic, firm
bubbling. Total Wine & More. —M.L.
Price: $14
abv: 11%
foods such as pasta in cream sauce or boiled meats. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 9%
Price: $19
metodo classico style, it closes with fresh acidity and fine
perlage. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $31
84
Quarticello 2011 Despina Malvasia (Emilia). Made using an aromatic clone of Malvasia,
this is a slightly sweet sparkler that would work beautifully with appetizers or tapas. It shows a light hay color and aromas of peach and honey. Savio Soares Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $23
88
CAMPANIA
88
91
Greco (Campania). For full review see page
9.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
85
Canevel NV La Vi Extra Dry (Prosecco).
Fresh, clean and easy, this would taste great at
an outdoor pool party or during a sunny lunch outdoors.
It delivers fresh crispness, with lingering tones of green
apple and passion fruit. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd.
—M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 11%
Falanghina (Campania). The only estateproduced sparkling wine in its region, this metodo classico sparkler shows a bright, golden hue, with aromas of
vanilla, toasted almond, caramel and exotic fruit. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
85
90
Conselve NV Tramontana Brut (Prosecco). This opens with tonic aromas of citrus and
crushed stone, with light touches of peach and pear at
the back. The wine is bright and clean, with a sharp,
firm quality of effervescence. Luxe Vintages. —M.L.
Price: $17
abv: 11%
84
Banero NV Banero (Prosecco). There is
only a handful of Kosher sparkling Proseccos
out there, and this is one of them. Lively and bright, the
wine shows citrus, stone fruit and dried hay aromas. L.
Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.L.
Price: $8
abv: 11%
CENTRAL ITALY
86
Donelli NV Scaglietti (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Founded in 1915, Donelli produces
some of central Italy’s finest Lambrusco bottlings. This
dry, red sparkler has enough acidity and fizzy effervescence to cut through local cuisine, such as tortellini with
cheese or butter. The bouquet shows red berry, strawberry and blackberry. Made with 90% Lambrusco di
Sorbara grapes. Opici Wines. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 11%
85
Bonfiglio 2010 Alba in Vigna Pignoletto
(Colli Bolognesi). Executed in a frizzante
style (with less intense bubbling), this easy sparkler offers delicate aromas of stone fruit, citrus and bitter almond. Pair this with finger foods. Franco Wine Imports.
—M.L.
Price: $18
abv: 12%
85
Donelli NV Scaglietti (Lambrusco Reggiano). This is a dry, fizzy red wine that’s made
from a blend of indigenous Lambrusco grapes, including 55% Lambrusco Marani. Thanks to its bright acidity and lively fruit flavors, this pairs perfectly with fatty
90
Rosé (Campania). For full review see page
10.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $43
87
Cantine di Marzo NV Anni Venti Extra
Brut (Campania). This 365-year-old estate
proves the potential of metodo classico in southern Italy, where sparkling wine production is a relatively new
phenomenon. Made from Greco, this shows aromas of
pear, peach and Golden Delicious apple. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $31
OTHER SPARKLING
WINES
90
Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Almerita Extra
Brut (Contea di Sclafani). Tasca d’Almerita
produces one of southern Italy’s finest metodo classico
sparklers. Made from Chardonnay ripened under the
Sicilian sun, this is creamy, rich and long, redolent of
apricot, toasted almond and honey. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $56
89
Beni di Batasiolo 2007 Metodo Classico
Millésimé (Piedmont). Delicate and feminine, this sparkler is based on Chardonnay and Pinot
Nero, with aromas of white flower, peach, melon and
stone fruit. It’s firm and fresh on the close, with soft, fine
perlage. Boisset Family Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
89
Le Marchesine NV Opera Brut Rosé
(Lombardy). A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Nero, this offers touches of red rose and raspberry,
backed by citrus, peach and pear notes. Made in the
Arunda NV Excellor Brut Rosé (Alto
Adige). This opens with aromas of wild berry, citrus, peach, grapefruit and spring flower. The appearance is elegant and feminine, as is the impression
it leaves on the palate. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Le Marchesine NV Opera Brut (Lombardy). Fresh and light, this metodo classico sparkler offers clean aromas of citrus and stone fruit, followed by pear and white almond. The perlage is persistent and tonic. Lyra Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $40
88
Tasca d’Almerita 2007 Almerita Brut
Rosé (Contea di Sclafani). This historic Sicilian producer offers two sparkling wines, of which this
superfriendly and enjoyable rosé is the more affordable
bottling. It opens with toasty, creamy aromas of wild
berry and stone fruit. The finish is foamy, rich and fresh.
Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $56
87
Borgo Maragliano NV Brut (Piedmont).
Fresh and easy, with bright acidity and steady
effervescence, this Chardonnay-based sparkler would
pair well with fried finger foods or appetizers. The wine
is easygoing and refreshing. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
87
Domenico Cavazza NV Toari Brut (Veneto). A blend of Chardonnay, Riesling and Garganega, this presents a distinctive and interesting aromatic profile. Notes of flower and herb combine with
touches of citrus, stone fruit and dried hay. Casa Torelli.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
87
Orion Wine NV Rosa Bianca Brut (Veneto). For full review see page 12.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
86
Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti NV
Rosé (Tuscany). A unique rosé sparkler
made with Sangiovese, this offers aromas of wild berry,
white cherry and herb, with a subdued, creamy quality
to the perlage. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
84
Bonotto delle Tezze NV Raboso Rosato Frizzante (Piave). Made using Raboso
grapes native to northern Italy, this brightly pink sparkler shows sweet aromas of raspberry and strawberry,
followed by sweet fruit flavors. Like any good frizzante,
the effervescence is soft, creamy and not too intense.
Venezia Imports. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $11
ITALY
DESSERT WINES
ALTO ADIGE
94
Andriano 2009 Juvelo Gewürztraminer
(Alto Adige). Lovely, lively and superintense,
this is richly fragrant and opulent on all levels. This precious expression offers loads of honeysuckle, jasmine,
citrus blossom and apricot. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $50/375 ml
93
Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2008 Castel Giovanelli Serenade Passito (Alto
Adige). Air-dried Moscato Giallo grapes are pushed
to the extremes in terms of their intensity and staying
power. This opulent selection offers thick layers of candied fruit, apricot, honey, caramel and marzipan. The
flavors are delicious and long-lasting. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
Price: $NA/375 ml
abv: 11.5%
92
Girlan 2009 Pasithea Oro Gewürztraminer (Alto Adige). These Gewürztraminer grapes are left to sweeten on the vine until
mid-December, resulting in a decadently rich and fragrant dessert wine from Italy’s mountainous north. It reveals divine tones of apricot, honey, spring flower and
jasmine. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $50/500 ml
89
Girlan 2009 Pasithea Rosa Moscato (Alto
Adige). A passito-style dessert wine, this is
made from Moscato Rosa. It’s fragrant and full of aromas of wild flower, berry, almond and honey. Montcalm
Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38/500 ml
88
Abbazia di Novacella 2009 Praepositus
Kerner Passito (Alto Adige). Aged only in
stainless steel, this brilliantly maintains its fresh fruit
characteristics. Tree-ripened peach and Golden Delicious apple notes give this wine natural sweetness that
isn’t overboard or too heavy. Vintage Epicure. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $44/375 ml
88
Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011 Moscato
Giallo (Alto Adige). A cheerful and easy dessert wine, this would pair perfectly with apple pie or
cinnamon-dusted strudel. It features bright fruit aromas
of apricot, pear and passion fruit. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
FRIULI
95
Lis Neris 2008 Tal Lùc (Friuli). This is made
from Verduzzo grapes and a tiny percentage of
Riesling; the former variety gives the wine depth, substance, bright yellow-gold color and pretty aromas of
butterscotch and caramel. The Riesling adds a touch of
floral fragrance. MHW, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 10%
Price: $88/375 ml
92
Scubla 2008 Cràtis Verduzzo (Colli Orientali del Friuli). Verduzzo is a very interesting grape that tends to exude oxidized aromas of candied fruit, butterscotch and carmel. But when made
well, as in the case of this selection, it offers power,
concentration and natural richness as well. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18/375 ml
91
Meroi 2000 Picolit (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This golden dessert wine is made from airdried fruit and then aged in oak. The results are luscious
and intense, with loads of candied fruit, preserved lemon and toasted almond. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $85/500 ml
89
Le Vigne di Zamò 2007 Vola Vola (Colli Orientali del Friuli). A beautiful blend of
Picolit, Sauvignon and Verduzzo, this is a well-balanced
selection that shows structure, persistence and long, lingering fruity aromas. The finish is smooth, sweet and
rich. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
Price: $28/500 ml
abv: 12.5%
88
Marco Cecchini 2007 Verlit Verduzzo
(Colli Orientali del Friuli). This opens with
a bright golden color and immediate aromas of butterscotch, candied fruit and smooth almond paste. The
wine is naturally robust and structured. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $27/500 ml
88
Ronchi di Cialla 2008 Cialla Picolit (Colli
Orientali del Friuli). Picolit is a rare and precious dessert wine that shows aromas of candied fruit,
pressed flower and honey. This expression has a touch
of bitter almond on the finish. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $75/375 ml
RECIOTO DELLA
VALPOLICELLA
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Corteforte 2005 Amandorlato (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). This has pretty smoked tones of barbecue spice and cured meat,
backed by cassis. It’s dense and rich, and its tannins are
smooth. The Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55/500 ml
90
Domìni Veneti 2009 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Recioto always tends to have
loads of dark fruit intensity, but this one is particularly
intense, with spicy oak tones of toasted nut and cinnamon. It offers a sweet but tannic close, with notes of tobacco and Darjeeling tea leaf. Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $36
90
Domìni Veneti 2008 Vigneti di Moron (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This
would pair beautifully with chocolate-covered strawberries or black cherries. Spicy oak tones fill in the background with espresso bean and toasted almond accents.
Wine Twist. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30/500 ml
90
Le Ragose 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Bursting with aromas of red cher-
ry and blackberry, this is tonic and bright, with loads of
intensity and sweetly smoked flavors on the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $45/500 ml
abv: 14%
90
Le Salette 2009 Pergole Vece (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This has
a dark ruby color, a dense consistency and pretty aromas of chocolate fudge, spice, cinnamon and crushed
clove. The mouthfeel is smooth and long. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $90/500 ml
90
Le Salette 2008 Pergole Vece (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). Cherry liqueur,
dark chocolate, espresso and blackberry preserves
open the nose of this hearty selection. The finish is
sweet and soft, with loads of chocolate fudge. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $100/500 ml
90
Monte dall’Ora 2007 Sant’Ulderico (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Recioto Sant’Ulderico boasts a very interesting texture and
structure. It’s firm and smooth, with fine tannins and
long persistence. The finish is marked by flavors of barbecue sauce, sweet blackberry and cinnamon. Louis
Dressner Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $75/500 ml
90
Monte del Frá 2006 Tenuta Lena di Mezzo
(Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This
Recioto is not too sweet, which is its strongest trait: The
absence of cloying, jammy fruit gives this an elegant and
sophisticated personality. The finish is characterized by
bright cherry and spice. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $43/500 ml
90
Roccolo Grassi 2008 Recioto della Valpolicella. Bold and savory aromas of smoked
jerky, teriyaki, blackberry and exotic spice. Those savory
tones become sweet in the mouth: Pair this with plum
cake or chocolate pudding. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45/375 ml
90
Stefano Accordini 2009 Acinatico (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Dark
chocolate, Christmas spice, prune and plum open the
bouquet. The mouthfeel is structured but smooth,
with fresh accents of acidity. Omniwines Distribution.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/375 ml
90
Stefano Accordini 2008 Acinatico (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Aged in
a combination of oak and stainless steel, this brooding,
dark selection delivers strawberry, red apple, dark chocolate and crème de cassis aromas. It’s thick and sweet,
but it shows nicely balanced acidity. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $28/500 ml
90
Tedeschi 2006 Capitel Fontana (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). Tedeschi’s entire portfolio of red wines is characterized by tight tannic structure, which Capitel Fontana has in spades. The
WineMag.com | 21
finish offers notes of dark cherry and blackberry. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70/500 ml
es or chocolate-based desserts. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20/500 ml
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Begali 2009 Recioto della Valpolicella
Classico. Meaty and thick, this has aromas
of cured meat, blackberry preserves, teriyaki and worn
leather. Siema LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/500 ml
89
Brigaldara 2006 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Balance and richness characterize this dessert wine. Pair it with chocolate mousse or
crème brûlée. Its bright fruit aromas and mild tannins
will cut the sweetness of such desserts. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $40/375 ml
89
Gamba 2006 Le Quare (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Here is a very pleasant,
ruby-red dessert wine that offers smoky tones of ripe
blackberry, barbecue spice, cured meat and leather.
The wine’s richness and smooth density are impressive.
Giacopuzzi Agency. —M.L.
Price: $33/500 ml
abv: 14%
89
Novaia 2009 Vigneto Le Novaje (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). Recioto tends
to pair best with rum cakes or chocolate- or cinnamonbased desserts. This offers dark hues of fudge, clove and
rose petal. North Berkeley Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/375 ml
89
Secondo Marco 2009 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Pretty highlights of cinnamon, clove, cassis and dried raspberry give this a friendly, approachable appeal. It shows a rich, velvety texture
on the finish. Good Earth Wines —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA/500 ml
89
Tommasi 2009 Vigneto Fiorato (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). This vineyarddesignate wine opens with pretty floral tones of pressed
red rose and violet, backed by dusty mineral, wild berry,
candied fruit and prune. The mouthfeel is sweet, thick
and long. Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $30/375 ml
88
Allegrini 2008 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Thanks to its tannins and natural richness, this would pair well with chocolate or
dark fruit. It shows a savory, spicy side, with aromas of
dark earth, button mushroom, prune and blackberry.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA/500 ml
88
Buglioni 2007 Il Recioto (Recioto della
Valpolicella Classico). This opens with a
spicy nose that recalls barbecue smoke, cola and cured
meat. There are notes of sweet cherry and blackberry
on the finish, giving this its sweet, fruity appeal. Martin
Scott Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2010
Tesauro (Recioto della Valpolicella). Zesty
spice, clove and cinnamon notes open the bouquet. The
thick mouthfeel demands to be paired with aged chees22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012
Giuseppe Lonardi 2009 Le Arele (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Thanks to
long oak aging, this is extra spicy and zesty on the finish.
Its thick, supple mouthful would pair well with chocolate- or almond-based desserts. Small Vineyards LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $40/500 ml
88
La Giaretta 2005 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. Rich and penetrating, this shows
tertiary aromas of crushed stone, cured leather and
black truffle. The mouthfeel is polished and smooth.
The Vintner Group. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA/500 ml
88
Le Bertarole 2007 Podere le Giarette (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas
of cherry cola, exotic spice, dark forest berry and black
currant open the bouquet of this lively Recioto dessert
wine. This expression is not as hearty and thick as others, and its slender brightness is its greatest strength.
Vinarium Inc. —M.L.
Price: $15/500 ml
abv: 13%
88
Santa Sofia 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico. This presents sweet notes of
berry fruit, cinnamon and crushed clove that are backed
by firm structure and polished tannins. The finish is
generous, with a cool cherry flavor. Laird & Company.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $54/500 ml
88
Villa Spinosa 2008 Francesca Finato Spinosa (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This expression shows hints of chocolate and
cinnamon, wrapped around a core of plum, prune and
blackberry flavors. Tradizione Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50/500 ml
87
Cantina Sociale della Valpantena 2008
Tesauro (Recioto della Valpolicella). A
blend of 70% Corvina and 30% Rondinella, this is a
cool and bright offering, with aromas of apple skin, forest berry, maraschino cherry and dark blackberry. The
finish is spicy, sweet and polished. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20/500 ml
87
Cantine Benedetti 2008 Corte Antica (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). A touch
of apple skin immediately appears on the bouquet of
this wine, giving this hearty selection a bright, sharp
quality. The apple tone is followed by notes of dark
chocolate and espresso bean. Golden Horseshoe Inc.
—M.L.
Price: $NA/500 ml
abv: 13%
87
Viviani 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella
Classico. There’s a slight touch of red apple skin at the start of the bouquet, followed by bright
cherry and raspberry aromas. This would pair well with
chocolate brownies or moist carrot cake. Bonhomie
Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA/500 ml
VENETO
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Speri 2008 La Roggia (Recioto della Valpolicella Classico). This opens with bright
fruit intensity, bearing flavors of red apple skin, chocolate, dark cherry and coffee bean. It shows plush and
rich concentration, with a firm, fresh finish. Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA/500 ml
Stefano Accordini 2010 Recioto della
Valpolicella Classico. Dark, plump and superripe, this has tones of warm earth, chocolate and
maraschino cherry. The finish is bright and simple, yet
sweet, with loads of rich density. Kysela Père et Fils.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $22/500 ml
Tommasi 2008 Vigneto Fiorato (Recioto
della Valpolicella Classico). This offers
subtle fruit characteristics, with scents of violet and rose
in the background. A bright cherry flavor appears on the
palate, where the wine delivers a syrupy, soft sweetness.
Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA/375 ml
Trabucchi d’Illasi 2006 Terre del Cereolo (Recioto della Valpolicella). This opens
with a thick, inky texture, and clean flavors of dark
prune, cassis and blackberry preserves. The finish is
rich, long and supple. Selected Estates of Europe Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $70/500 ml
Dal Forno Romano 2004 Vigna Serè
(Veneto). Labeled as “air-dried sweet red
wine” instead of its traditional name “Recioto,” this is
indeed a powerful and generous wine. It boasts huge
density and superintense aromas of blackberry, oak
spice and tobacco. Keep it for your cellar. Vias Imports.
Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $200/375 ml
Maculan 2011 Dindarello Moscato (Veneto). This shows excellent balance of sweet fruit
and honey flavors. Bright acidity sparkles on the finish, adding crispness that makes this wine perfect for
cream-based desserts. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22/375 ml
Maculan 2010 Madoro (Veneto). Made
with Marzemino and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
presents luscious darkness, followed by tones of chocolate, spice, prune and dark plum, with a touch of bitterness on the close. It’s so rich and decadent that it can
be paired with sweet and savory foods alike. Winebow.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30/375 ml
Astoria NV Lounge Moscato (Veneto).
This sweet, Moscato-based offering would pair
well with fruit-based dessert, panna cotta, or crème
caramel. It offers loads of floral intensity, a lightly fizzy
mouthfeel and low alcohol. Prestige Wine Group.
—M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $13
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OTHER NORTHEAST
ITALY
87
VIN SANTO DEL CHIANTI
Astoria NV Salvatore Principe Rosé
Moscato (Veneto). This lightly sparkling rosé
opens with fragrant aromas of rose petal, candied cherry, honey and wild berry. As the label says, it scores an 8
on a sweetness scale of 1–10, with 10 being the highest.
Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 7%
Price: $12
93
Suavia 2007 Acinatium (Recioto di
Soave). This is made from Garganega and is
bright gold in color, with intense aromas of apricot, honey and jasmine. The mouthfeel is smooth, silky and the
finish is very long. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55/375 ml
88
La Montecchia 2009 Donna Daria Moscato (Colli Euganei). The Colli Euganei is an
up-and-coming wine region located in a volcanic chain
of hills outside the city of Padua. This expression of
Moscato is sweet and enduring, with aromas of yellow
rose and jasmine. Villa Italia. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $50/500 ml
87
Anna Spinato 2006 Rubioso Raboso
(Marca Trevigiana). Late-harvest Raboso
grapes produce a dark, ruby-colored sweet wine, with
powerful concentration and a thick texture. The fruit
characteristics recall prune and black currant. Megawine Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $24/500 ml
87
Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2011 Moscato
Rosa (Delle Venezie). Light pink in color,
with sweet overtones of honey and candied peach, this
would pair with poppyseed cake or apple tart. The finish
is thick and opulent. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $19
85
Gaierhof 2011 Moscato Giallo (Trentino).
In its unmistakable squat bottle, this Moscatobased dessert wine offers pretty floral tones and flavors
of peach and citrus. Its easy mouthfeel make it a natural pairing with almond cookies. Nicola Biscardo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $20
MOSCATO D’ASTI
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Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2011 Moscato
d’Asti. This expression beautifully showcases
Moscato d’Asti’s typical sweet, musky aroma, along with
notes of peach, citrus, white flower and honey. Novo
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $17
87
Beni di Batasiolo 2011 Bosc Dla Rei
(Moscato d’Asti). This is a popular and reliable wine to pair with desserts or to drink alone. It offers foamy mousse with peach and honey on the finish.
Boisset Family Estates. —M.L.
abv: 5%
Price: $NA
Marco Negri 2011 Marsillo (Moscato
d’Asti). Foamy mousse and soft, fizzy perlage
characterize this delicate offering. It could pair with
fruit salad or cream-based desserts, thanks to its delicate citrus and peach flavors. Total Beverage Solution.
—M.L.
Price: $17
abv: 5.5%
Mauro Sebaste 2011 Moscato d’Asti.
Honey, white flower, peach and lemon blossom
are some of the pretty aromas on offer. Light and delicate, it also feels creamy, rich and sweet on the finish.
Saranty Imports. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 5%
86
Marchesi di Barolo 2011 Zagara (Moscato d’Asti). Deliciously light and creamy, this
has a bright flower aroma, followed by touches of honey
and stone fruit. Pair it with pastries, fresh fruits or baked
apricots. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $19
abv: 5%
86
Ricossa 2011 Antica Casa (Moscato
d’Asti). This is a textbook example of Moscato.
The bouquet offers bright aromas of white flower, honey and fresh peach. Touchstone Wines. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 5.5%
85
Luccío NV Moscato d’Asti. Creamy, soft and
very floral, this would pair with fruit-based desserts or sponge cake. Thick and foamy layers of sweetness and soapy perlage move slowly over the palate.
Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.L.
Price: $10
abv: 5.5%
85
Paluzzi 2011 Moscato d’Asti. Soft and
creamy, this bursts open with bright flower and
sweet fruit intensity. It has aromas of stone fruit, jasmine, honeysuckle and passion fruit. All that delicate
sweetness is followed by thick, foamy perlage. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $13
abv: NA
85
Tosti NV Moscato (Asti). Delightfully fresh
and sweet, this playful sparkler would pair with
almost anything from the dessert table. The creamy
finish is redolent of peach and honey. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 7.5%
84
Morando NV Stella Mia (Moscato d’Asti).
Fresh and easygoing, with accents of honey and
stone fruit and a touch of butterscotch, this would pair
with almond biscotti or cantucci. The mouthfeel is rich
and very foamy. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $11
abv: NA
OTHER PIEDMONT
84
Ricossa 2010 Antica Casa (Casorzo).
This rosé dessert wine has a creamy fizz, with
flavors of sweet raspberry and wild berry. Simple and
sweet, it is dark raspberry in color. Touchstone Wines.
—M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 5.5%
Tosti NV Moscato Rosato (Piedmont).
Bright pink and cheerful, this boasts aromas of
raspberry, wild berry and cherry candy. Soft, creamy
bubbles enhance the wine’s natural sweetness. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 6.5%
92
Castello d’Albola 2003 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. Thanks to eight years in Vin
Santo’s traditional caratelli barrels, this sweet blend of
Trebbiano and Malvasia offers a dark, golden-amber
color, bearing intense aromas of dried apricot, candied
fruit, honey and toasted almond. Zonin USA. —M.L.
Price: $50/500 ml
abv: 15.5%
92
Querciavalle 1999 Vin Santo del Chianti
Classico. Querciavalle produces a fine vin santo that shows the passion and dedication required for a
wine that’s difficult to produce. It has been aged in small
oak barrels, offering aromas of honey, candied fruit, resin and toasted almond. Tricana Imports. —M.L.
Price: $47/500 ml
abv: 16%
91
Castelli del Grevepesa 1998 Clemente
VII (Vin Santo del Chianti Classico). Rich
and opulent, with tones of candied fruit, dried apricot,
chestnut paste and toasted almond, this should be savored alone after a long and satisfying meal. No need to
pair it with dessert: It’s a dessert in its own right. Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L.
Price: $30/500 ml
abv: 16.5%
91
I Sodi 2005 Riserva (Vin Santo del Chianti Classico). For full review see page 9.
Price: $50/500 ml
abv: 14.5%
91
Il Borro 2007 Vin Santo del Chianti. Beautiful and elegant, this has golden highlights, offering intense aromas of honey, toasted almond, pine
nut and candied fruit. The finish is sweet and long, with
a touch of crispness. USA Wine West. —M.L.
Price: $38/500 ml
abv: 15%
91
Pietro Beconcini 2001 Caratello (Vin
Santo del Chianti). This beautiful expression
shows elegant aromas of candied apricot, honey, preserved lemon and white rose. Williams Corner Wine.
—M.L.
Price: $50/500 ml
abv: 16.5%
90
Fattoria Lavacchio 2007 Riserva (Vin
Santo del Chianti Rufina). This shows crisp
acidity on the close, with opulent layers of candied fruit,
honey and crème brûlée. The mouthfeel is rich, smooth
and long-lasting. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $40/500 ml
abv: 15%
90
Lanciola 2005 Vin Santo del Chianti. From
the Colli Fiorentini zone of Chianti, this beautiful vin santo spent five years maturing in small oak barrels. It shows flavors of candied fruit, honey, resin, pine
nut and toasted almond. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L.
Price: $62/500 ml
abv: 16%
WineMag.com | 23
TOSCANA
93
Castello di Bossi 2003 Vin San Laurentino (Toscana). Gorgeous and elegant, this
demonstrates Tuscany’s sweetest side. Trebbiano, Sangiovese and Malvasia undergo long aging to obtain impressive thickness and intensity of flavor. The lengthy
finish is driven by notes of candied fruit, honey and
brown sugar. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $95/375 ml
92
Renieri 2002 Principe di Renieri (Toscana). This boasts a dark amber color, with
thick extraction and superintense aromas of candied
fruit, honey, brown sugar and maple syrup. The mouthfeel is divinely rich and supple. Michelangelo Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $70/375 ml
92
Sada 2008 Vendemmia Tardiva Vermentino (Toscana). Late-harvest Vermentino
makes for an interesting dessert wine that both sweet
and fresh. Aromas include citrus, apricot, almond, dried
herb and flower. There’s a great deal of density and intensity packed in this precious bottle. ID Beverage
Group. —M.L.
Price: $68/375 ml
abv: 10.5%
90
Piazzano 2004 Vinsanto (Toscana). This
golden amber-colored offering could pair with
dried-fruit-based desserts or almond biscuits. A delicate
wine, it is redolent of brown sugar, candied fruit, honey,
dried flower and apricot. Vintner Select. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $37/375 ml
89
Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Oro del Cedro
(Toscana). Made from organically farmed
fruit, this late-harvest Traminer is luscious, boasting
aromas of white rose, preserved lemon, apricot and
blanched almon, which set the stage for the smooth,
silky mouthfeel. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40/500 ml
OTHER TUSCANY
92
Castello Banfi 2010 Florus (Moscadello
di Montalcino). This is an epic wine, fit to
present the little-known Moscadello di Montalcino dessert wine to foreign markets. Its ambassadorial qualities
include a lively, golden color and sweet tones of honey,
rose and marzipan. Banfi Vintners. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $20/500 ml
91
Col d’Orcia 2008 Pascena (Moscadello di
Montalcino). Made from late-harvest Moscadello grapes, this offers delicate sweetness, with pretty
touches of candied fruit, almond paste, peach cobbler
and white flower. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $50/375 ml
88
Fattoria San Michele a Torri 2007 Vinsanto (Colli Etruria Centrale). This shows aromas of candied fruit and honey, with zesty touches of
dried herb, citrus and spice at the back. The mouthful
is velvety smooth, and the finish is long. Casa Torelli.
—M.L.
abv: 16%
Price: $40/500 ml
complexity on the palate that make this a perfect partner to aged sharp cheeses. Bacchanal Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $26/500 ml
MONTEFALCO
SOUTHERN ITALY
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Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Passito (Montefalco
Sagrantino). Thanks to careful vineyard care
and long oak aging, vintner Marco Caprai adds a soft,
opulent dimension to his air-dried Sagrantino dessert
wine. Colored and flavored by notes of bright spice and
dark chocolate, it features a firm finish. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $50/375 ml
90
Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Passito (Sagrantino
di Montefalco). After 18 months of oak aging,
this shows lovely softness, yielding aromas of dark chocolate and exotic spice. The grape’s signature tannins add
firmness and focus to the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
Price: $55/375 ml
abv: 15.5%
90
Lungarotti 2008 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). This shows a compact and firm
style, with masculine tones of red fruit, chocolate, exotic
spice and shaved cinnamon stick. It’s dark and opulent.
Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $77/375 ml
88
Còlpetrone 2006 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). Like all good passito dessert wines
made from the Sagrantino grape, this shows firmness
and structure, with aromatic characteristics of bitter
chocolate and cherry liqueur. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65/375 ml
OTHER CENTRAL ITALY
94
Barberani 2008 Calcaia (Orvieto Classico Superiore). One of the best dessert wines
from central Italy, this is marked by muffa nobile, or
“noble rot.” It’s opulent and dense, with golden apricot, honey and a delicate veil of muskiness. Vinifera Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $35/500 ml
Di Majo Norante 2010 Apianae Moscato
(Molise). Oozing richness and opulence, the
bouquet delivers a steady stream of honey, flower and
apricot aromas. On the palate, this is silky and creamy,
save for a tingling touch of acidity that keeps the palate
refreshed. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA/500 ml
92
Feudi di San Gregorio 2010 Privilegio (Irpinia). For full review see page 7.
abv: 12%
Price: $60/500 ml
90
Pirro Varone 2009 Tocy Bianco Fiano (Puglia). Made from late-harvest Fiano
grapes, this is one of the nicest dessert wines produced
in the deep south of Italy. It shows bright aromas of candied fruit, apricot and honey, set over a sweet, generously rich mouthfeel. Domenico Valentino. —M.L.
Price: $27/500 ml
abv: 15%
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Pirro Varone 2009 Tocy (Primitivo di Manduria). This would pair with a cigar or dark
chocolate cake. It’s a smooth, rich wine, with firm tannins and lasting tones of ripe blackberry and raspberry.
Domenico Valentino. —M.L.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $27/500 ml
88
Produttori Vini Manduria 2007 Madrigale
(Primitivo di Manduria). This naturally sweet
red opens with a neutral nose that recalls a dry Primitivo wine. Dark fruit, cherry and black pepper notes
are present, with a tangy sweetness on the palate. Pair
this with chocolate brownies or chocolate chip cookies.
D’Aquino Italian Importing Co. Inc. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
SICILY
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Tre Monti 2009 Casa Lola (Albana di Romagna). Packed with intensity and elegance,
this opens with fragrant tones of candied fruit, honey,
dried flower and apricot. Its distinct aromatics recalls
the botrytis that shapes the best wines of Albana di Romagna. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21/500 ml
Donnafugata 2010 Ben Ryé (Passito di
Pantelleria). Ben Ryé is one of the 10 best
dessert wines made in Italy. From the sun-drenched island of Pantelleria, this is made using Zibibbo grapes
that are air-dried. It’s thickly extracted and syrupy
sweet, with intense aromas of apricot, honey and marzipan. The kick of fresh acidity at the end is nothing
short of brilliant. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40/375 ml
90
Sorrentino 2007 Fior di Ginestre Passito
(Pompeiano). Made from air-dried Falanghina and Coda di Volpe, this pretty dessert wine opens
with a dark, golden color and bright aromas of apricot,
honey and candied pineapple. Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $20/500 ml
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Tre Monti 2008 Passito (Albana di Romagna). This shows a pretty golden color with
amber highlights, bearing aromas of candied fruit, honey, dried yellow rose and jasmine. It has deep layers of
Tasca d’Almerita 2010 Capofaro Malvasia (Salina). This is made using fruit from one
of the most beautiful spots on Earth, so it’s no wonder
this dessert wine is so delicious. Sweet peach, honey
and candied almond notes open the fragrant bouquet.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $40/500 ml
Cusumano 2008 Moscato dello Zucco
(Sicilia). Strong sunshine and fertile soils give
this wine an extra boost in intensity and overall mouth-
feel. Golden honey, candied fruit and sweet almond
paste flavors drive the experience. Vin Divino. —M.L.
Price: $31/500 ml
abv: 13%
92
Feudo Arancio Stemmari 2009 Hekate
Passito (Sicilia). For full review see page 7.
Price: $31/500 ml
abv: 12%
90
Feudi del Pisciotto 2010 Gianfranco Ferré (Sicilia). Equal parts Gewürztraminer and
Sémillon form the base of this opulent selection. Bright
tones of candied fruit and marzipan set the tone and
segue onto the palate that is long, rich and sweet. Vias
Imports. —M.L.
Price: $30/500 ml
abv: 16%
89
Spadafora NV Amnesia (Sicilia). This is
made using an equal blend of sun-dried Catarratto and Grillo grapes. Pair it with sweet almond cookies or aged cheese. Candied fruit and honey tones drive
the long finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
Price: $19/500 ml
abv: 14%
SARDINIA
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Argiolas 2007 Angialis (Sardinia). Very
thick and viscous, this is a sweet expression of
Sardinia’s Nasco grape. Rich aromas of candied fruit,
dried apricot, honey and marzipan linger on the palate.
Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $65/500 ml
abv: 14.5%
88
Cantina Pedres 2010 Dolci Note Moscato
(Sardinia). Dolci Note, or sweet notes, is a luscious offering that bears a bright golden color and lingering aromas of white flower, honeysuckle and stone
fruit. Specialty Wine Co. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 7%
OTHER DESSERT WINES
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Risata NV Il Rosso (Italy). This sweet, fizzy
red would pair well with sweet almond cookies
or spicy banana bread. It’s an easy but cheerful wine to
sip at the end of a long, satisfying meal. Prestige Wine
Group. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 11.5%
83
Astoria NV Salvatore Principe Mi Amore
Moscato (Italy). This sweet sparkler presents
a cheerful and informal side of the fragrant Moscato
grape. It bursts open with aromas of rose, jasmine and
sweet honey. The soft bubbling is creamy and smooth.
Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 7%
FRANCE
SPARKLING WINES
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE
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Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1990 Cave
Privée Brut (Champagne). This toasty, superbly mature wine is part of a series of releases featuring the house’s cellar-matured Champagnes. This
emerges from the glass with complex flavors of almond,
brioche, citrus and a hint of steeliness. The majestic
richness of the wine has fully justified its decades of aging. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
96
Vintage Brut (Champagne). For full review
see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $110
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Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1989 Cave
Privée Brut Rosé (Champagne). This very
pale rosé has the richness of toast and croissant that
comes from complete maturity. It also features fresh
hints of the red and white fruits that were present during the wine’s younger years. This is ready to drink now.
Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
95
Bollinger 2004 La Grand Année Brut
Rosé (Champagne). This grand rosé is rich
and rounded. Its red fruit flavors are layered with toast
and spice notes, with depth that gives the wine another
dimension of complexity. It could age in the bottle for
at least 3–4 years. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $235
95
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). For
full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $135
94
Billecart-Salmon 2002 Cuvée Elisabeth
Salmon Brut Rosé (Champagne). This is
a beautifully balanced, elegant and mature sparkler.
There is fruit—ripe strawberry—but the main character is its fine balance and richness. It can age, though it
is at its best now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Moët & Chandon 2004 Grand Vintage
Brut (Champagne). Vintage Champagne
is always the ultimate expression of a producer. This
shows the approachable character of Moët wines, while
adding intensity and complexity. It is taut and minerally, with a spiced apple note and nervy acidity. It’s now
ready to drink, but it also has good aging potential. Moët
Hennessy USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $58
Champagne producers who taste each other’s wines before allowing them to be released under this label. With
its pure expression of mineral-driven, tense Chardonnay, this is made in a dry style. It’s fragrant, fruity and
ready to age for several years. Michael Skurnik Wines.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $85
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Piper-Heidsieck 2002 Brut Cuvée Rare
Millesimée (Champagne). This is top
Champagne from Piper-Heidsieck, offering the delicious airy quality that’s the hallmark of this house,
with crisp apple flavor, tangy acidity and the first signs
of yeasty, toasty bottle age. Its fruit intensity has transformed into a splendid selection. It’s worth aging for a
few more years, though also delicious now. Remy Cointreau USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $175
abv: 12%
94
Taittinger 2002 Comtes de Champagne
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). The
latest release of the legendary Comtes de Champagne
comes from a great vintage. It has full, toasty bottleage notes that give the wine depth of flavor, with a ripe,
rounded mouthfeel and taut acidity. An almond note
combines with the citrus-driven acidity on the finish.
Kobrand. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
93
Aubry 2006 Aubry de Humbert Premier
Cru Brut (Champagne). This elegant, stylish
selection is a mature blend, showing touches of toast
and citrusy acidity. It feels superripe on the palate,
while still maintaining the focus of its core balance. Age
this bottle for another few months. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
93
Gaston Chiquet 2005 Spécial Club Brut
(Champagne). While 2005 is not a great vintage in Champagne, in the right hands, as here, it can
produce some fine wines. This is beautifully balanced, a
contrast between soft fruit and a touch of maturity. It is
not a wine for long aging, and will be completely ready
in a year. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
Price: $74
abv: 12%
93
Perrier Jouët 2004 Belle Epoque Brut
(Champagne). This shimmers with its flavors
of apple and lime, its hint of toast and its soft finish. It’s
finely balanced, a great selection that is ready to drink
now. Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Gaston Chiquet 2004 Spécial Club Brut
(Champagne). An exceptional wine, this is
balanced, elegant and rich. It brings out the fine Pinots
of Dizy and Aÿ blended into weight and richness. There
is a delicate balance between the fresh fruit and mature
toast characters. Age for another two years or drink now.
Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $76
abv: 12%
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Perrier Jouët 2004 Belle Epoque Rosé
(Champagne). With just the right amount of
toasty age, this is gorgeous. Its strawberry note is woven
into its rich texture, with a flavor of fresh croissant and a
final burst of acidity. It could age, but why wait? Pernod
Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $350
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2005 Spécial
Club Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). The Spécial Club is a grouping of
Mailly Grand Cru 2002 Les Echansons
Brut (Champagne). Dominated by Pinot
Noir, this now-mature wine is full and ripe, a rich example of a great vintage. It has apple and pear flavors that
are now fully integrated into its smoky, toasty character.
In the middle of the brut category, this is ready to drink.
Saranty Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
Brut Rosé (Champagne). This serious, ripe
WineMag.com | 25
offering is packed with red berry and stone fruit flavors.
It also has complex touches of toast and acidity, producing a sense of dryness. This is finely balanced and is now
ready to drink, but it will also likely age for a few more
years. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
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Perrier Jouët 2002 Belle Epoque Blanc
de Blancs Brut (Champagne). An intense
wine that reveals its floral and rich character slowly. It is
showing only a slight sign of maturity, and more noticeable are its flavors of crisp apple and citrus, along with
bright, tight acidity. It could age well for several more
years. Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
93
Piper-Heidsieck 2004 Millésime Brut
(Champagne). This is made in a deeper, richer style than this producer’s nonvintage. It has weight
and concentration, and its acidity is balanced by the
ripe orange and red apple flavors that are cut by a steely
edge. On the finish, acidity and fruit come deliciously
together. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
Price: $75
abv: 12%
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powerful acidity. It is rounded with some bottle age,
which gives it a toasty character. Drink now or age for
several years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $68
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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2005 Oenophile
Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
(Champagne). The extra age on this bone-dry wine
has paid off, as the taut character of a young wine has
been tempered with toast, creating a round feeling. It is
perfectly in harmony now, beautiful and crisp. Michael
Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $72
92
Roland Champion 2007 Spécial Club
Chouilly Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). In perfect balance now, this is a great
expression of mineral-driven Chardonnay. Its acidity is
a vehicle for the crisp flavors of pear and lime, with a
hint of ginger. It’s still young, so drink it now for its great
fruit, or age for four more years. Kysela Père et Fils.
Price: $80
abv: 12.5%
Veuve Doussot 2004 Cuvée Guy Joly Mémory Brut (Champagne). This is a beautiful, ripe, full-bodied sparkler, balancing rich fruit with
bottle age to produce a round, elegant character. It is
delicious to drink now, although there is enough fruit
to allow it to age for 2–3 years. Serge Doré Selections.
abv: 12%
Price: $120
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Vilmart & Co 2004 Coeur de Cuvée Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This is an
ultrarich, full and elegant selection. It’s intense and concentrated, a serious wine that speaks of its fine depth of
flavor and weight. Now ready to drink. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $148
92
Bruno Paillard 2002 Assemblage Brut
(Champagne). This is a powerful, almost concentrated, very dry selection. Its richness comes from
the weight of its fruit flavors and the tight tang of its
intense acidity. From a fine vintage, it could still age for
several more years. Disgorged July 2011. Vintus LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
92
Aubry 2008 Ivoire et Ebène Brut (Champagne). This beautifully fragrant offering is
definitely on the dry side. It has a crisp apple flavor, accompanied by a citrus note and taut minerality. This
nervy, feather-light wine is better fit for food than as an
apéritif. Still young, it could age for several more years.
Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
Aubry 2007 Le Nombre d’Or Sablé Blanc
de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Attractively
mature, this has a toast flavor that combines delicately
with citrus and pineapple notes. Tight, crisp and textured, it is delicious and fragrant. This includes old
Champagne varieties, including the unusual Arbanne
and Petit Meslier. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $82
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H. Billiot Fils 2005 Millésime Grand Cru
Brut (Champagne). Still young, this is an impressive vintage, ripe and full, yet well-balanced with
rich fruit and toast. It has weight, with a solid, dry feel
that promises aging potential. Disgorged June 2012.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Gaston Chiquet 2004 Premier Cru Brut
(Champagne). A ripe, golden selection, glowing with a just-ready-to-drink feeling. From a fine vintage, this is structured and complex, layering acidity
with sweet, juicy fruits and an attractive touch of toast.
Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
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H. Blin 2002 Blin’s Édition Limitée Millésime Extra Brut (Champagne). For full
review see page 7.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $70
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Jean Milan 2008 Symphorine Sélection
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This serious, complex selection features a lively mousse. It balances ripe yellow and white fruits with
Henri Goutorbe 2004 Spécial Club Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne). This ripe and fruity
style shows yellow fruit and citrus, producing a full-bodied wine. With its weight and richness, it is a delicious
wine to drink now, but this blend also shows potential
for bottle aging. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $85
Collection Brut (Champagne). While the
vintage of 1993 was certainly not the finest in Champagne, it can still hold its head high. This is mature—
certainly not old—a fine wine, with toast and almond
flavors and swathes of acidity to keep it lively and bright.
It’s probably not suited for further aging, but it is a great
wine to drink now. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Montaudon 2006 Brut Millesimé (Champagne). This smooth, toasty selection achieves
a fine balance between fruitiness and maturity. It is
open, a good reflection of the forward 2006 vintage.
With tangy acidity, ripe pear flavor and a toasty character, it is now ready to drink. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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René Geoffroy 2006 Volupté Premier Cru
Brut (Champagne). Rich, ripe and full bodied, this is a warm, Chardonnay-dominated blend. It
has crisp apple and citrus flavors, followed by a quince
note and a touch of apricot. The fruit for this wine is
sourced from premier cru vineyards, and it could age
a few more months in bottle. Disgorged January 2012.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $84
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Vilmart & Co 2007 Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This is definitely dry, yet it still retains the full, rich Vilmart style.
Crisp, mineral-driven and taut in character, it features a
fine mélange of apple, tangerine, light spice and intense
citrus. Its texture suggests it needs to age at least three
more years. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $93
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Aubry 2005 Le Nombre d’Or Brut (Champagne). One of Aubry’s two Champagnes from
relatively rare grape varieties, this is a full-throated
wine, replete with ripe fruit. Full bodied and rich, it has
weight and intensity. Its yellow fruit is laced with complex acidity from citrus. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $63
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H. Blin 2000 Exception Blanche Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne). The 2000 vintage
was not the finest in Champagne, so it’s no surprise this
wine is now mature. Though still fresh, there are attractive toast and vanilla characters accompanying its
apricot and quince flavors. Drink now. Robert Houde
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
90
Mailly Grand Cru 2007 L’Intemporelle
Brut (Champagne). This taut, nervy wine
has tight structure and acidity. It’s very crisp and dry to
taste, offering intense green apple and lemon zest. The
wine will be even better in 2–3 years. Saranty Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
90
Mailly Grand Cru 2007 L’Intemporelle
Brut Rosé (Champagne). This is a beautifully crisp and fruity wine with just the right amount
of softness to round it out. It is rich, with raspberrydriven acidity cutting its tangy lime-zest texture. Ready
to drink now. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
90
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils 2008 Cuvée Gastronome Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Champagne). Taut and crisp, this is in the dry
Gimonnet style. It is expressive and mineral driven, all
citrus and green apple skin. Alongside this tense character, there is an elegance, with its bright acidity cutting
through the fruit. This is food friendly. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $61
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René Geoffroy 2006 Empreinte Premier
Cru Brut (Champagne). Geoffroy’s style produces a full, rich offering, one that benefits from ripe Pinot Noir. The vintage gives it a soft, rounded character,
featuring pear, quince and seemingly sweet citrus flavors. It is balanced, with a crisp finish. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
90
Tendil & Lombardi 2008 Blanc de Noirs
Brut (Champagne). This 100% Pinot Noir
bottling has weight and a sense of structure. It is dry
and moderately tannic, with citrus and green apple
flavors. It’s a young, intensely textured wine, one that
needs bottle aging for at least four years. James W Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $69
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Veuve Doussot 2007 Millésime Brut
(Champagne). This producer in the Aude has
made a rounded, rich bottling that’s packed with tropical fruits and orange-zest acidity, with a lively, lemonand-grapefruit texture on the finish. The final feel is balanced, ripe and round. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Brut Rosé (Champagne). This has a relatively high dosage, producing a ripe strawberry flavor.
It’s full bodied, touched by a spice note, as well as some
toast from bottle age. The finish shows that this is a rosé
fit for food. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
René Geoffroy 2004 Millesimé Extra Brut
(Champagne). The bone-dry crispness of this
wine showcases Geoffroy’s full style. It has weight, intense acidity and flavors of taut lime and pure mineral.
Age for 2–3 years. Disgorged December 2011. Michael
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Roland Champion 2004 Carte Noire Grand
Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne).
This tangy, zesty wine has a taut and tense character,
balanced with acidity, fruitiness and firm texture. It
needs 3–4 years of bottle aging. Kysela Père et Fils.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $66
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H. Blin 2004 Millésime Brut (Champagne). This toasty, spicy selection is dominated by strong new-wood flavors. It has a rich character,
with pear and peach flavors and gentle acidity. There is
a crisp finish to this ripe wine. Robert Houde Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Tendil & Lombardi 2007 Rosé de Saignée
Brut (Champagne). A rare rosé Champagne
whose color comes from Pinot Noir skins rather than
from added red wine, this has vivid colors of orange and
onion skin. It is rich, tasting as much like wine as like
sparkling wine, with a full and ripe, yet dry, feel. James
W Imports Quench Fine Wines. —R.V.
Price: $69
abv: 12%
87
Michel Moritz 2006 Noblesse d’Or Vintage Brut (Champagne). From the lesserquality 2006 vintage, this is a gentle and tangy selection.
It has lemon zest and steely acidity, with light touches
of grapefruit and crisp apple. Not for aging, this is an attractive wine to drink now. Ambition Beverages. —R.V.
Price: $220
abv: 12%
NONVINTAGE
CHAMPAGNE
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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Sélection
Belles Années Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). This is an impressively rich nonvintage
selection, with tropical fruit as well as a mineral-driven
character. It’s impressive and would certainly take more
bottle aging. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
Price: $44
abv: 12.5%
93
Billecart-Salmon NV Brut Sous Bois Brut
(Champagne). In this case, Sous Bois, which
is French for “under wood,” refers to the wine’s first fermentation in wood. This creates an extra dimension of
richness, with a slight sense of oxidation. At the same
time, the fruit feels lifted and open. T. Edward Wines
Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
93
Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Réserve
(Champagne). For full review see page 6.
Editors’ Choice.
Price: $60
abv: 12%
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Pehu-Simonet NV Blanc de Blancs Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne). This is Pehu-Simonet’s contrast with its Blanc de Noirs from the Montagne de Reims. It has the same dryness as that wine,
but it features a more open character. There is, of
course, minerality imparted from the chalk soil, which
is balanced deliciously with an intense citrus flavor. Age
for another year in bottle. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $72
abv: 12.5%
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Bollinger NV Special Cuvée Brut (Champagne). The classic Bollinger nonvintage is, as
always, rich and firmly structured. With the roundness
that comes from aging the wines in wood before blending, it has a ripe, smooth edge. Underneath, the texture
is solid, with hints of apple and pear and mature acidity.
Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
Price: $90
abv: 12%
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Charles Heidsieck NV Brut Rosé Réserve
(Champagne). This is a beautifully balanced
and elegant offering, with pleasant fruitiness, tight acidity and a fragrant, crisp character. It’s full bodied, and
falls in the middle of the brut spectrum of dryness. This
is ready to drink now. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
92
G. H. Mumm NV Mumm de Cramant
Blanc de Blancs (Champagne). Now with
its intensity and some bottle age, this wine—formerly
known as Crémant de Cramant—is rich, with its apple
flavor blending with an almond note and a soft, warm
texture. The acidity shoots right through this ripe wine.
Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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H. Billiot Fils NV Cuvée Julie Grand Cru
Brut (Champagne). Aged in wood before
bottling, this is ripe and very full. Rather than add to
the already-complex flavors, the wood has rounded it
out. Yellow fruit integrates with intense, mineral-driven
acidity, which accentuates the richness of this impressive bottling. Disgorged June 2012. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Jean Milan NV Grande Réserve Blanc de
Blancs Grand Cru Brut (Champagne).
Fight your way through the string and wax sealing that
holds down the cork, and you’ll discover a wine that is
rich, full and opulent. The ripe peach character is balanced with the delicious toasty edge and final bright
acidity. Ready to drink. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Montaudon NV Classe M (Champagne).
This is rich, full bodied and packed with ripe
fruit. It has weight and concentration, while retaining
the light touch of the house style. With its white fruit
and apricot flavors, it could age a few years in bottle,
though it’s drinkable now. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Pehu-Simonet NV Blanc de Noirs Grand
Cru Brut (Champagne). The pure Pinot
gives a powerful character to this Champagne. There
is terrific tension, producing a wine that is firmly structured, full of ripe flavors of white fruit and red apple
skin. It’s full bodied and dry in the Pehu-Simonet style.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $72
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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils NV Cuvée Cuis
Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). With its crisp apple fruit and touch of citrus,
this initially seems to be merely fruit. Then, slowly, richness and a sense of maturity emerge to create a wine
that is complex, full and rich. Open this an hour before
pouring. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $51
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Varnier Fannière NV Cuvée St. Denis
Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). Although
not indicated on the label, this is a blanc de blancs. It
veers toward bone dry, while maintaining just a hint of
ripe tropical fruit to round out the crisp, mineral texture. It could age over several years. Michael Skurnik
Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $67
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Billecart-Salmon NV Extra Brut (Champagne). With zero dosage, this is obviously a
very dry Champagne. But such is the richness of its fruit
that it tastes ripe and rounded, allowing the citrus bite
WineMag.com | 27
to fit well with the apple skin flavor. It could age a year.
T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
baked apple flavor, finishing on a high note of acidity.
Disgorged March 2012. A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $52
eral driven, layering acidity, citrus and white fruit in a
complex, elegant whole. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
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Bollinger NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
Seductively light in color, this is based on Pinot Noir. It has a fine balance and a touch of toast. The
fresh red-fruit and citrus flavors harmonize into a complex whole. Like many Bollinger Champagnes, it’s a delicious, full-bodied selection that’s best suited for food.
Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
Price: $110
abv: 12%
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Forget-Brimont NV Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This is a
ripe, rich and full-bodied selection that has a flavor of
spiced pear. It has weight and intensity, a wine that is on
the sweeter side of brut, although this character is finely
integrated. The finish brings out delicious acidity. Holiday Beverage. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $110
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Drappier NV Quattuor Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Champagne). This blend of Chardonnay, with portions of the rare white grapes Arbane, Petit
Meslier and Blanc Vrai, produces a wine that is richer
than a blanc de blancs, with notes of crisp peach, pear
and a hint of red fruit. It could be aged for a few months
to deepen the flavors. A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
Price: $52
abv: 12%
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Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Brut Nature (Champagne). This is dry, but not quite bone
dry. The richness of the smooth Pinot Noir is enough
to round out the crisp apple and lime flavors, giving
it a wonderful brightness. It could be aged, though its
freshness makes it drinkable now. A. Hardy USA. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Price: $49
abv: 12%
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Forget-Brimont NV Charles de Brimont
Cuvée Prestige Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). Produced from vineyards in Ludes on the
Montagne de Reims, this is a rich selection. A good proportion of Pinot Noir creates ripe notes of apple and
black currant, laced with intense, crisp acidity. It will
take 1–2 years of bottle aging. Holiday Beverage. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $70
abv: 12%
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Franck Bonville NV Grand Cru Avize
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne).
From the heartland of Chardonnay in Champagne
comes this rich, creamy, apple-flavored wine. It has lively acidity, balanced with some sweetness from the dosage. It has weight and a crisp aftertaste. Total Wine &
More. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
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Gaston Chiquet NV Grand Cru Blanc de
Blancs Brut d’Aÿ (Champagne). Aÿ is better known for its Pinot Noir, so it’s rare to find a blanc de
blancs. Made in a rich style, it’s full of grapefruit, citrus
and apricot flavors. It balances this with taut, crisp acidity to produce a full wine that retains the dancing quality of a blanc de blancs. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
Price: $55
abv: 12.5%
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Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Sans Ajout de
Soufre Brut Nature (Champagne). By not
adding sulfur to the wine, André and Michel Drappier have managed to produce a wine with greater depth
than most, perhaps compounded by the slight oxidation
that gives richness. It’s a food wine, dry and packed with
Franck Bonville NV Les Belles Voyes
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This has finesse and elegance, with a thin
stream of bubbles and crisp, dry apple flavor. It is taut
with a cool feel, still young in the bottle and worth aging
a year. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Champagne). Light as a feather, this
is delightful and fragrant. Its fruits are refreshing, with
crisp pear and melon flavors that accompany its ripe
acidity. The wine dances on the palate, it’s a great apéritif with a slightly sweet finish. James W Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $59
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Varnier Fannière NV Grand Cru Brut
(Champagne). This crisp, fruity wine is made
exclusively from Chardonnay in Varnier Fannière’s Côte
des Blancs vineyards. It has a citrus flavor, with touches
of green plum and quince, and a tight, mineral character. Ideally, this should be aged for a year, but it is drinkable now. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $57
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Gaston Chiquet NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). This soft, warm rosé has plenty of Pinot Noir in the blend to give it weight. Raspberry and
red plum notes accompany touches of tannin and minerality. The acidity is infectious, making this a great
match for food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $54
H. Billiot Fils NV Cuvée Laetitia Brut
(Champagne). With a strong, mousse-like
feel in the mouth, this is a lively offering. It’s yellow fruit
is layered with toastiness. It has a rich feel, very much
in the Billiot style, and a complex, compact character.
It is ready to drink. Disgorged October 2011. Michael
abv: 12.5%
Price: $106
Henri Goutorbe NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru
(Champagne). Very dry and rich, this is a taut,
tense bottling of Goutorbe’s rosé. It has apple and red
currant flavors, laced with intense acidity and a bright
texture. With more bottle aging, it could be an apéritif wine. For now, it is best with food. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
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Pehu-Simonet NV Brut Rosé Grand Cru
(Champagne). This is an attractive, onionskin-colored wine, dry and crisp. It has red currant and
lemon zest flavors, taut and with a definite mineral character. This rosé could probably age and is certainly one
for food. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $61
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Pierre Péters NV Cuvée de Réserve
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). This is a beautifully balanced selection that’s
crisp and laced with taut apple and citrus flavors. It has
a rich texture, intense fruit and a tight minerality, which
gives it structure and the potential for bottle aging. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $58
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Roland Champion NV Carte Blanche
Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). A finely wrought wine, this is tangy and min-
Champagne Gremillet NV Grand Réserve
Brut (Champagne). Based in the Aube, in the
southern Champagne vineyards, Gremillet’s wines are
warm and rich. This has almond and spice characters,
a touch of vanilla and tight acidity. It could do with a
year’s bottle age. The Artisan Collection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Drappier NV Carte d’Or Brut (Champagne). Drappier’s nonvintage blend is a wine
that hits precisely the right note of freshness, with a soft,
rich feeling. It features apple and crisp citrus notes,
with light hints of yellow fruit and pineapple. At the
same time, there is an attractive feeling of maturity in
the bottling. A. Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $42
Drappier NV Zéro Dosage Brut Rosé Nature (Champagne). Drappier seems to be
able to make a bone-dry wine without losing rich fruit
character. It is crisp, tight and packed with acidity, yet
it also has a full, very attractive strawberry character. A.
Hardy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $52
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H. Blin NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Champagne). Like other wines from Blin, this seems
to have some good bottle age, which has rounded out
the naturally crisp character of the wine. The tight citrus
flavor is soft, giving a fragrant, mouthfilling feel. Robert
Houde Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Jean Milan NV Spécial Blanc de Blancs
Grand Cru Brut (Champagne). This crisp,
very dry wine tastes young and will improve with bottle
age. It has apples and intense citrus flavors, with a tangy,
steely texture. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $54
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Perrier Jouët NV Blason Brut Rosé
(Champagne). This fruity selection has
some of the elegant style for which Perrier-Jouët is
best known, while also including ripe strawberry and
red currant characters. It is immediately attractive and
ready to drink. Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Perrier Jouët NV Grand Brut (Champagne). In the elegant style of Perrier-Jouët,
this is rich and stylish, showing attractive toast, with
a touch of sweet apple. This standard nonvintage has
some richness, while maintaining its strong, fresh quality. Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
signs of bottle age in its toasty character. Holiday Beverage. —R.V.
Price: $65
abv: 12%
mousse, and the crisp finish provides an attractive lift.
Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $60
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Gaston Chiquet NV Tradition Premier Cru
Brut (Champagne). Gaston Chiquet’s nonvintage offering features a toastiness that testifies to
its bottle aging. Along with that feeling of richness, it
also contains balanced acidity. Full, crisp and lively, the
fresh and fruity aftertaste is delicious. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $48
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut (Champagne).
This is a bright style of Champagne that’s fresh
and crisp. It has a strong citrus tang, with notes of green
apple and attractive lemon zest. It is fit for an apéritif.
Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
H. Billiot Fils NV Brut Réserve Grand Cru
(Champagne). This full-bodied offering is
ripe and richly balanced. A predominance of the two
Pinots gives it an intense fruitiness, with raspberry and
red apple notes dominating. At the same time, there
is a fine, mineral-driven tautness that gives it a final,
crisp bite. Disgorged February 2012. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
Price: $56
abv: 12.5%
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Pierre Péters NV Rosé for Albane Brut
(Champagne). With a delicate orange-pink
color, this is a sophisticated rosé, balancing its acidity
easily with raspberry fruit flavor. It’s light and fruity, yet
offers a touch of structure that lifts it to another level.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Tendil & Lombardi NV Cuvée Hyménée
Brut (Champagne). This is a rich-yet-dry selection, with a lively mousse and a ripe apple flavor. It
feels rich, touched by toast, and its acidity serves as an
attractive contrast. This nonvintage has some bottle age
to round out the finish. James W Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $89
Varnier Fannière NV Brut Rosé Grand
Cru (Champagne). The 10% Pinot Noir in
this otherwise Chardonnay-dominant blend adds an attractive, light pink color. It is crisp and fragrant. Pinot
Noir’s tannins barely show, while Chardonnay’s appledriven acidity comes through strongly. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $67
Vilmart & Co NV Grand Cellier Premier
Cru Brut (Champagne). This ripe, fruity offering has great depth of flavor. Vilmart is known for
rich wines like this, with a high proportion of Pinot Noir
in the blend. It’s full, with a good balance of dosage and
a crisp finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Aubry NV Brut Rosé Premier Cru (Champagne). This intensely fruity selection is
packed with red fruit that overlays its soft, tangy texture.
Orange zest and citrus flavors give the right amount of
freshness to this ready-to-drink wine. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $59
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Forget-Brimont NV Michel Forget Grand
Cru Brut Rosé (Champagne). A wine with
quite a kick of acidity, this features crisp apple and
strawberry flavors. It is full bodied, ripe and fruity. A
tang of freshness gives the wine’s ripeness a welcome
lift. Holiday Beverage. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $110
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Forget-Brimont NV Michel Forget Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This full,
round wine melds rich pear and tangerine flavors with
fine acidity. It’s crisp, fragrant and ripe, showing some
Jacquart NV Brut de Nominée (Champagne). From a bottling that has some toasty
maturity, this is a rounded wine. Almond and apple flavors balance each other to produce a ripe and smoothly
soft selection. It has notes of toast and mushroom, as
well as ripe, lime-driven acidity on the finish. JAD Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Le Grix de la Salle NV Brut Extra (Champagne). Dry and crisp, this is dominated by apple flavor. It’s light in texture, attractively fruity and has
a youthful feel to it. It could age a few months in bottle.
BCI LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $45
Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut (Champagne). A lively mousse leads to a wine that
is now drier than in the past; it’s crisp and apple-juice
fresh. This is tight, bright and fruity, with a refreshing,
citrusy finish. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Moët & Chandon NV Impérial Brut Rosé
(Champagne). The rosé rendition of one of
the best-selling Champagnes has been reformulated for
the U.S. market. It is now on the dry side, pushing forward its delicious red fruit. Bright acidity gives the palate a lift, while there is some good weight on the finish.
Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
René Geoffroy NV Expression Brut
(Champagne). This full-bodied wine is
packed with citrus and tight, apple-driven acidity, as
well as a rich touch of apricot. This fruitiness is balanced by a deliciously refreshing character that creates
texture and a steely, minerally feel. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
Roland Champion NV Cuvée Aramis Brut
(Champagne). This is a full-bodied wine, with
the Pinot fruit showing strongly in the blend, producing richness and a sweet-tasting character. This most recent cuvée from Roland Champion is powerful—a fine
combination of minerality and bottle age. Keep it for
3–4 years, but it can be consumed now. Kysela Père et
Fils. —R.V.
Price: $50
abv: 12.5%
Tendil & Lombardi NV Blanc de Noirs
Brut (Champagne). This dry, 100% Pinot
Noir Champagne has tense acidity as well as crisp apple- and citrus-driven acidity. With its taut mineral character, it needs at least a year to soften. James W Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $59
Veuve Doussot NV Blanc de Blancs Brut
(Champagne). This fruity selection is full of
apple, citrus and white peach notes. Its fruit is balanced
by a crisp texture and a tang of orange zest. The wine is
round and warm, fitting for a Chardonnay from southern Champagne. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Veuve Doussot NV Grande Cuvée Extra
Brut (Champagne). Following the fashion of
bone-dry Champagnes, this is extremely crisp and taut.
Acidity cuts the citrus and apple flavors to produce a
steely feel, with concentrated fruit juice and a textured
character. It’s worth aging the wine for a few more
months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Aubry NV Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This dry, full-bodied selection benefits
from the rich Pinot in the blend. It has a tight, minerally
texture, its acidity cutting the flavors of lime juice and
orange zest. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
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Montaudon NV Réserve Première Brut
(Champagne). This is a bright, crisp, nonvintage blend. While it is fruity and youthful in character, the blend’s older vintages also make it taste mature. Pear and apple notes dominate, lacing through the
tangy, zesty texture. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Cuvée Sublime DemiSec (Champagne). With its aroma of sweet
apple and fruity character, this is an immediately likeable wine. It is ripe, with plenty of acidity. It has a lively
Champagne Gremillet NV Cuvée des
Dames Chardonnay Brut (Champagne).
This is a bright, tight wine, with flavors of citrus and
white fruit. It has intense acidity, and the sweetness of
the dosage gives it a soft feeling. It’s light and fruity. The
Artisan Collection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
Champagne Gremillet NV Sélection Brut
(Champagne). This ripe, soft selection is full
of fresh white fruit and apricot flavors. An apéritif style,
WineMag.com | 29
it’s warm and fruity, its tight acidity balanced by the rich
aftertaste. The Artisan Collection. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Franck Bonville NV Grand Cru Blanc de
Blancs Brut Prestige (Champagne). It’s a
rich, yeasty wine with ripe apple and peach flavors accompanying a soft texture. It’s a rounded Champagne,
on the sweeter side of brut, finishing with attractive
acidity. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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G. H. Mumm NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
This salmon-pink-colored wine is refreshingly
fruity, with attractively crisp acid offsetting the bright
red fruit and apple flavors. Drier than in past vintages, it
still has a ripe, soft finish. Pernod Ricard. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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G. H. Mumm NV Cordon Rouge Brut
(Champagne). One of the best-known Champagnes on the market, this tastes relatively dry. It isn’t
losing its bright, open fruitiness, but that quality now
joins a structured, mineral-driven edge. This could work
as an apéritif or it could be paired with food. Pernod
Ricard. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
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H. Blin NV Brut (Champagne). Blin’s nonvintage cuvée is a blend of Pinot Meunier and
Chardonnay, producing a rich, soft feeling. Its acidity
is deliciously balanced by the ripe apple and pineapple
notes. Ready to drink, it is an apéritif-style offering.
Robert Houde Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
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H. Blin NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). A
soft, ripe rosé, this is on the sweeter side of brut.
It also has a flavor of bottle maturity that blends easily
with attractive crisp acidity and a fragrant rose hip character. It is ready to drink. Robert Houde Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
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Henri Goutorbe NV Cuvée Prestige Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This rich selection has a touch of bottle age that creates a toasty
character. It features ripe apricot and peach notes, with
warm and taut acidity. Ready to drink. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $52
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Jacquart NV Brut Mosaïque (Champagne). The style of Jacquart’s nonvintage
Champagne is rich, ripe and full bodied. Along with
its generous feel, it features apple-driven acidity, pink
grapefruit flavor and a final, attractive bite of crispness.
It tastes young, fruity and bright. JAD Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Jacquart NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). An
attractive salmon color introduces this crisp and
fruity wine. Lively and full bodied, it has bright acidity,
as well as fresh strawberry flavor. It’s dry, dominated by
youthful acidity. It will benefit from a few more months
in bottle. JAD Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Mailly Grand Cru NV Délice Demi-Sec
(Champagne). This well-balanced, off-dry
wine has a fine line of acidity to balance its gentle sweetness. It features flavors of vanilla and baked apples. The
wine could be matched with fruit desserts, but it is best
consumed on its own. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Michel Moritz NV Noblesse Brut (Champagne). This ripe, full-bodied offering has a
soft feeling due to its rich dosage. It features apple and
ripe pear flavors, with a shaft of acidity that creates a
crisp, fresh aftertaste. Ambition Beverages. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $70
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Montaudon NV Grand Brut Rosé (Champagne). This attractive, light-colored rosé is
dry, but its richness, crushed strawberry flavor and textured acidity neatly combine to produce a crisp, yet full,
wine. Ready to drink. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Piper-Heidsieck NV Brut Rosé Sauvage
(Champagne). With its vivid pink color, this
wine has a strawberry flavor, and it is sweeter-tasting
than in past vintages. It feels soft and textured, with layers of raspberry-driven acidity. The aftertaste has some
bitterness. Remy Cointreau USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $55
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René Geoffroy NV Blanc de Rosé Extra
Brut (Champagne). Despite its name, this is
in fact a rosé, which is light orange-pink in color. It is
bone dry, mineral, taut and crisp. Red currant and lime
flavors mingle with a tight acidity and totally dry aftertaste. Disgorged June 2012. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Tendil & Lombardi NV Rosé de Saignée
Brut (Champagne). This intensely crisp selection shows its red-currant-driven acidity immediately. It is a fragrant, refreshing wine, very food-oriented
with its dry character. It has touch of toast and a taut,
minerally finish. James W Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $59
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H. Billiot Fils NV Brut Rosé (Champagne).
This soft style contains a warm, crushed strawberry flavor and ripe acidity, which creates a warm and
rounded feel. The wine an edge of bitterness to to a
slight hint of tannin. Disgorged November 2011. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Jacquart NV Extra Brut (Champagne).
Although it’s very dry, this also has some toasty
bottle age that softens the impact of its raw fruit flavor.
It is taut, with a crisp apple-skin texture and considerable acidity, balanced by a yeasty character. JAD Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Michel Moritz NV Noblesse d’Or Brut
Rosé (Champagne). This new Champagne
brand’s rosé is soft, with a sweet strawberry flavor. It has
a fine balance of acidity and ripe fruit, with a crisp finish
despite the intruding sweetness. Ambition Beverages.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $495
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René Geoffroy NV Rosé de Saignée Premier Cru Brut (Champagne). This full,
rich style of rosé gets its color from grape skins, which
provides a touch of tannin as well as strawberry flavor
and attractive acidity. It’s definitely for food. Michael
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Roland Champion NV Brut Rosé (Champagne). With its red berry flavor and touch of
citrus, this is very fruity. It’s attractive, crisp and open.
Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $58
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Pierre Sparr NV Brut Réserve (Crémant
d’Alsace). This fruity wine is packed with flavors of creamed apple, citrus and quince. It is rich and
full in the mouth, with a dancing mousse that gives it a
delicious lift. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $19
abv: 12%
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Wunsch & Mann NV Crémant d’Alsace.
A sweet apple aroma leads to an off-dry, fruity
wine. With its baked apple and citrus flavors, it is fragrant, lively and very fresh. There’s an attractive lightness to the finish. BCI LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Wunsch & Mann 2009 Brut (Crémant
d’Alsace). This is a yeasty offering that’s full on
the palate, with a rich mousse. Yellow and white fruits
contribute to its richness, a touch of bitterness balanced
with the fruity acidity. Drink now, or age for a year. BCI
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Arthur Metz 2010 Brut Millesimé (Crémant d’Alsace). This rounded, yeasty wine
features apple, bitter almond and some fruity acidity. It
is full, rich and creamy-textured. Prestige Wine Group.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
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Jaffelin NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This is a well-made,
round Crémant from 100% Chardonnay. It has a good
balance of minerality and fruit, offering lively acidity as
well as ripe apple and white currant flavors. It has a refreshing, lifted finish. Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $17
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Moingeon NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This ripe, fruity wine has attractive
acidity that’s balanced with yellow fruit and apple notes.
It shows a bright character, with some good intensity of
flavor and a crisp, refreshing finish. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Domaine Luquet NV Blanc de Blancs
Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne). This is a
ripe, fruity, creamy Chardonnay-based sparkler. It has a
tropical fruit flavor, with some sweetness from both the
fruit and the high dosage. It’s in a full-bodied, attractive
apéritif style. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
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Jaffelin NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bourgogne). This is made in a fruity style, with attractive red-fruit flavors. It is dry and laced with acidity.
It has richness, a full body and refreshing final acidity.
Epic Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
LOIRE
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Chateau Moncontour 2010 Cuvée Prédilection (Vouvray). This sparkling Vouvray has
weight and richness, balanced by intense acidity and a
crisp green-salad texture. Lemon zest and quince flavors add the fruit element. It will benefit from another
two years in bottle. USA Wine West. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Château Gaudrelle NV Vigneau Brut
(Vouvray). Just off-dry, this almond- and apple-flavored wine achieves a fine balance of crispness
and richness. There is just a touch of honey, intertwined
with delicious citrusy acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Chateau Moncontour 2010 Tête de Cuvée Brut (Vouvray). Nut and toast aromas
lead to a smooth palate, with creamed apple and delicate orange zest flavors. Behind the crisp acidity, there
is a mature feel, giving roundness to the delicious aftertaste. USA Wine West. —R.V.
Price: $17
abv: 12.5%
VIN MOUSSEUX
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Royal Muscato NV Pink (Vin Mousseux).
For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
Price: $8
abv: 11%
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Le Grand Courtage NV Grande Cuvée
Blanc de Blancs Brut (Vin Mousseux).
Crisp, apple-flavored and touched by citrus, this is light
and toasty. The finish is dry, fruity and fresh. Ready to
drink. Le Grand Courtage. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 11.5%
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Marquis de Perlade NV Blanc de Blancs
(Vin Mousseux). This attractively fruity offering features floral, fruity flavors that are cut by crisp
acidity. It is a bright, light and fruity sparkler, with just a
touch of sweetness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 12%
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Le Grand Courtage NV Grande Cuvée
Brut Rosé (Vin Mousseux). This is smooth,
soft and seemingly sweet despite its brut designation.
Strawberry and candied sugar notes combine with a lift
of acidity. Le Grand Courtage. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 12%
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Royal Muscato NV White (Vin Mousseux).
There is a curious imbalance here between
Muscat’s natural honey and very insistent acidity. The
result is a wine that wants to be fresh, sweet and fruity,
but doesn’t fully succeed. Patriarche USA. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 11%
LANGUEDOCROUSSILLON
LANGUEDOC WHITES
91
It’s medium weight, with a direct but tasty palate and a
medium-length finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. —L.B.
Price: $24
abv: 13%
87
Domaine Delsol 2011 Picpoul de Pinet
(Coteaux du Languedoc). Here’s a fresh and
approachable selection, with notes of crisp citrus, green
melon and apple. There’s a hint of sweet lemon on the
palate, followed by a brisk, mouthwatering finish. Drink
now. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —L.B.
Price: $11
abv: 12.5%
87
Hecht & Bannier 2011 White (Languedoc). This 50-50 blend of Picpoul Blanc and
Roussanne is ripe and fleshy, boasting round notes of
melon, peach, pineapple and lemon custard. There’s a
soft, herbal accent of white flower and citrus zest that
graces the lively finish. Drink now. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —L.B.
Price: $14
abv: 13%
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Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grenache-Vermentino (Languedoc). Aromas of waxy apple skin
and white melon rind lead the nose, though a soft lemon
oil accent unfolds in the back after the wine warms. The
mouthfeel is round yet lifted, with ripe melon and sweet
citrus flavors that are balanced by a good acidic cut to
the finish. Drink now. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
86
La Cave de Pomerols 2011 HB Picpoul
de Pinet (Coteaux du Languedoc). Light
and young, this is a straightforward but enjoyable selection that would be an ideal match for light fare such
as grilled chicken salads or flake. Apple flesh, nectarine
and sweet citrus oil aromas and flavors appear on the
nose and palate, while the short finish is infused with
a flavor of green melon rind. Kysela Père et Fils. Best
Buy. —L.B.
Price: $10
abv: 12.5%
Château Gaudrelle NV Vigneau Brut (Crémant de Loire). While the 50% Chenin Blanc
in this blend produces acidity and a tight apple flavor,
the 50% Chardonnay rounds the wine out with warm
peach and sweet pear. It is ripe and full in the mouth.
Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
Château Maris 2010 Brama Grenache
Gris (Minervois La Liviniere). Notes of
toasted apple skins, wood-grilled peaches, lightly dried
grass and sweet spices lead the nose of this attractive
white and continue through onto the medium-weight
palate. It is ripe and fruit-forward, with rounded flavors of melon, pear and apple flesh, but it’s all lifted
by marked, brisk acidity that keeps the finish simultaneously bright and long. Drink now–2015. Verity Wine
Partners. —L.B.
Price: $42
abv: 14%
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Domaine de la Perruche NV La Grande
Cuvée (Saumur). Crisp apple, grapefruit and
almond notes give this wine great vitality and life. With
its light, bright texture and fresh feel, it’s a perfect apéritif. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
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Domaine de Vaugondy NV Brut (Vouvray). This emphasizes the dry acidity of Chenin Blanc, while maintaining an attractive lift of crisp apple and citrus. It’s a lively, fragrant wine with a bright
and fruity feel. Ready to drink. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Château des Karantes 2010 La Clape
Blanc (Coteaux du Languedoc). This is a
refreshing and somewhat complex wine, with layers of
underripe peach, green fig and melon rind mixing with
garrigue accents. There’s a grassy accent to the palate,
with a hint of lime pith on the solid finish. Eagle Eye
Brands. —L.B.
Price: $29
abv: 13%
Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Château Malavieille Alliance (Coteaux du
Languedoc). This light and easy Roussanne-dominant blend (with 10% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viognier) beams with bright notes of clementine, pineapple,
guava and a touch of melon rind on the nose and palate.
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Gérard Bertrand 2010 Picpoul de Pinet.
Notes of red apple rind and orange oil lead the
bouquet of this straightforward quaff. The bright palate
offers more intense citrus flavors, leading nicely onto
the brisk, clean finish. Drink now. Gerard Bertrand
USA. —L.B.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
ROUSSILLON WHITES
Domaine du Clos des Fées 2010 Vieilles
Vignes Grenache Blanc (Vin de Pays des
Côtes Catalanes). The delicate bouquet offers dainty
aromas of red apple and melon, with a slight thread of
baking spice throughout. The mouthfeel is full yet focused, with a distinct mineral streak and a clean citrus
cut to the ripe fruit flavors. It ends with a long, softly
spiced finish. Dalbavie Selection LLC. —L.B.
Price: $35
abv: 14.5%
Domaine de l’Edre 2010 Carrément
Blanc (Côtes du Roussillon). This blend of
Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Roussanne and Maca
beau is a tad closed and shy now, but should develop
more intensity with time. Peach skin, white melon and
WineMag.com | 31
orange notes are present on the nose and mouth, and
are dusted with a lovely sweet-spice accent on the finish, but the mouthfeel comes across as slightly flabby.
Hand Picked Selections. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $43
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Domaine Piquemal 2010 Les Terres Grillées (Côtes du Roussillon). Soft aromas of
talcum and crushed white flower mingle with tropical
notes of pineapple core and guava. Strong melon and
pear flavors flood the palate, with a hint of grassy herbaceousness that opens up on the medium-length finish.
Beaune Imports. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
MINERVOIS
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Château Maris 2009 Les Amandiers (Minervois La Liviniere). This is a stunning
wine that’s loaded with flavor and complexity. The vibrant bouquet boasts assertive, fruity aromas of kirsch,
blueberry and blackberry, alongside notes of iris, dark
chocolate and a touch of sweet tobacco. The palate is
full and ripe, with powerful, dense black-fruit and berry
flavors that are laced with a hint of cream and sweet
cocoa. Firm yet well-integrated tannins grip the long
finish. Decadent now, but should hold nicely through
2017. Verity Wine Partners. —L.B.
Price: $150
abv: 14.5%
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Château Maris 2009 Les Planels Syrah
(Minervois La Liviniere). This is a dense and
heady wine, with powerful aromas of forest berry, garrigue and purple flower that mingle seamlessly with the
blackberry and raspberry fruit core. A hint of smoky
game adds depth to the palate, which evolves in layers from notes of lush fruit flesh to tannic skins, then
offering notes of savory herbs and, finally, a raw cocoa
powder flavor. The texture is like crushed velvet. Verity
Wine Partners. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Hecht & Bannier 2009 Minervois. Attractive red-plum and berry fruit aromas and flavors lay the framework, while supporting accents of garrigue, pepper and leathery spice add depth and character. A lush fruitiness floods the palate, but is countered
with a mineral tang and a touch of smoke on the lingering finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —L.B.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
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Gérard Bertrand 2009 Syrah-Carignan
(Minervois). Flavors of blackberry and blueberry compote lead the nose of this dense wine, followed by whiffs of bittersweet chocolate and peppery
spice. Medium weight and lush on the palate, it has
good acidic lift that keeps the finish clean and vibrant.
Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Château Maris 2009 Continuité de Nature Carignan (Minervois La Liviniere).
The aromas of this wine are slightly high-toned, offering bright notes of apple skin, tart cherry and small redberry fruit. A touch of black pepper livens up the medi-
um-weight palate and spices up the clean finish. Verity
Wine Partners. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
LA CLAPE
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Château des Karantes 2009 La Clape
Rouge (Coteaux du Languedoc). This
blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache is ripe and jammy, with intense aromas of blackberry and raspberry preserves, baking spice, chocolate
and a touch of pepper. Well balanced with a slightly
creamy texture and medium tannins, the fruit dominates the palate and lingers long onto the finish. Drink
now–2015. Eagle Eye Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Gérard Bertrand 2009 Grand Terroir
Syrah-Carignan-Mourvèdre (La Clape).
Loads of dark, jammy black-fruit flavors are graced with
vanilla bean and sweet spice accents. Lush and mouthfilling without feeling overdone, the palate boasts intensely concentrated flavors of cherry and plum, with
a touch of black pepper that unfolds on the slightly
chewy, medium-length finish. Drink now–2015. Gerard
Bertrand USA. Editors’ Choice. —L.B.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
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Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grand Terroir Syrah-Carignan-Mourvèdre (La Clape). This
fruit-forward selection is brimming with ripe aromas
and flavors of raspberry, cherry and plum, with lovely supporting accents of game, savory spice and cured
meat that provide interesting complexity and layers of
flavor throughout. It’s mouthfilling and dense, with medium tannins and a long, spicy finish reminiscent of pipe
tobacco. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Château des Karantes 2010 Bergerie
Rouge La Clape (Coteaux du Languedoc). There’s a nice mélange of aromas and flavors to this
wine, as hints of dried purple flowers mingle with fruity
notes of brambly forest berry and black plum. Accents
of leather, smoke and graphite add depth to the palate,
but the finish is a bit warm. Eagle Eye Brands. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
VIN DE PAYS
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Laurent Miquel 2010 Père et Fils SyrahGrenache Syrah-Grenache (Pays d’Oc).
Blueberry, blackberry and boysenberry all abound on
the nose and palate of this easy-pleasing and accessible
wine. Fine tannins and medium acidity create an approachable structure, while hints of crushed violet and
chocolate add richness to the finish. Laurent Miquel.
Best Buy. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Marius 2010 Grenache-Syrah (Pays
d’Oc). The bouquet of this red blend starts
off with medium-intense aromas of dried red cherry
and raspberry, but transitions into secondary accents of
sweet smoke and soft spice. The medium-weight palate is balanced and straightforward. Drink now. Terlato
Wines International. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Val Auclair 2010 Les Barras (Vallée du
Paradis). There’s a slightly funky edge to this
Carignan-Syrah blend, with gamy and herbal streaks to
the bright red-berry aromas. The palate is a bit richer, with darker flavors of cherry and blackberry leaf
that carry through to the medium-length finish. Hand
Picked Selections. —L.B.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
86
Vignobles Boudinaud 2009 Grange des
Rouquette Syrah-Grenache (Vin de Pays
d’Oc). Glimmers of game and pepper infuse the redfruit-driven core of this wine. Plum, raspberry and
cherry, dusted with notes of baking spice, flourish on
the palate. Medium weight, with dusty tannins, this is
reminiscent of crushed dried berries. Robert Kacher
Selections. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Arrogant Frog 2010 Lily Pad Noir Pinot
Noir (Pays d’Oc). For full review see page 14.
Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
La Forge Estate 2010 Unfiltered Pinot
Noir (Pays d’Oc). Light aromas of red cherry
and raspberry can be discovered upon deep nosing, but
the fresh garrigue, tree bark and raw cocoa nib notes
steal the show. A hint of vanilla-strawberry sweetens up
the close. Drink now. Palm Bay International. —L.B.
Price: $11
abv: NA
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François Lurton 2010 Les Hauts de Janeil Syrah-Grenache (Pays d’Oc). This
wine smells ripe and sweet right off the bat, with decadent aromas and flavors of raspberry sauce, berry coulis
and all-fruit preserves, laced with hints of licorice and
mocha. The mouthfeel is round and lush, with medium tannins and a lasting finish. Vintus LLC. Best Buy.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
François Lurton 2010 Terra Sana Syrah
(Pays d’Oc). There’s a hint of caramel-like
sweetness to the lush dark-fruit center of this Syrah.
Dense, jammy blackberry and cherry flavors continue
on the palate, with an overall round mouthfeel and a
softly spiced finish. Drink up. Vintus LLC. —L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
Labouré-Roi 2010 Les Sangliers Pinot
Noir (Pays d’Oc). The fruit isn’t the star of
this wine; instead, intense notes of forest floor and cola
spice dominate the nose and palate. Sure, the red berry
and cherry flavors are there, but they’re just hanging in
the background of this bright yet herbaceous selection.
Palm Bay International. —L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Le Grand Noir 2010 Pinot Noir (Pays
d’Oc). A soft earthy character adds depth to
the strawberry and rhubarb fruit aromas and flavors.
The palate is clean and bright, with a cocoa-dusted
red-berry fruit finish. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
—L.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Tortoise Creek 2010 Les Oliviers Pinot
Noir (Pays d’Oc). An attractive, earthy accent of forest floor complements the brambly berry
and cherry fruit core. The approachable palate is easy
to like, with flavors of blueberry and baking spice that
remain through the close. Drink now. Winesellers Ltd.
—L.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Gilles Louvet 2010 O Made from Organic
Grapes Pinot Noir (Pays d’Oc). There’s an
overall dustiness to this wine, almost like a combination
of talcum powder and dried, crushed plums and berries.
Lean and slightly tart on the palate, it has a taut structure and a clean but short finish. Drink now. MHW, Ltd.
—L.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
OTHER LANGUEDOC
REDS
89
Domaine de Baron’Arques 2009 Red
(Limoux). Pretty notes of purple flowers lead
the bouquet, with a supporting core of brambly black
berry and cherry. Spicy suggestions of dark chocolate,
licorice root and black pepper add depth to the palate,
while a spicy cocoa flavor lingers well through the medium-length finish. BNP Distributing. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
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Domaine de Baron’Arques 2009 La Capitelle du Domaine de Baron’Arques (Limoux). This takes some time to fully express itself, but
once it does open up, decadent notes of dried purple
flower, garrigue, blackberry and black cherry all abound
on the nose and palate. With a creamy texture like
crushed velvet and a long, brambly finish, this is a crowd
pleaser with good depth and complexity. BNP Distributing. —L.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
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Gérard Bertrand 2010 Grenache-Carignan (Fitou). Intense and concentrated, with
deep and full aromas and flavors of black plum, mashed
blackberry and soft cassis that’s laced with a hint of violet. Hearty yet balanced in the mouth, this has moderate
tannins and medium acidity, providing a solid structure
and a decadent chocolate-flavored finish. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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center stage on the palate, but it’s backed by a sweet
spice flavor and tea-like astringency that lingers though
the finish. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
PORTUGAL
VINHO VERDE
90
Casa do Valle 2011 Grand Escolha (Vinho
Verde). For a Vinho Verde, this is rich and full
bodied. Its creamy texture is packed with ripe, creamed
pear and grapefruit flavors. The acidity seams effortlessly into the full texture. It could age, but it’s ready to
drink now. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
90
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros
Loureiro (Vinho Verde). The Loureiro grape
shows best in the Lima valley where Casal Paço Padreiro’s vineyards are situated. Lees aging has produced
a wine that is full and fruity, with ripe apricot and peach
flavors as well as crisp acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
Price: $18
abv: 12%
90
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Daphne
Loureiro (Vinho Verde). Floral and aromatic,
this is a rich Vinho Verde that also keeps its cool character. It has lemon and lime flavors, with ripe acidity
that fills the palate with intense notes of pear and green
apple. It’s a style of Vinho Verde that can age for a year.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
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Casal do Paço Padreiro 2009 Afros Branco Loureiro (Vinho Verde). This rare example of a mature Vinho Verde has an oxidative character—not at all unpleasant—which gives it a smooth texture, along with a ripe almond note and firm acidity. The
result is a food wine in the style of a mature Sauvignon
Blanc. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
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Dao Sul 2011 Quinta de Lourosa (Vinho
Verde). This is a bone-dry, piercingly fresh
wine. It has tense acidity and a mineral texture that
would make it delicious as an accompaniment to seafood. The wine is crisp, refreshing and bright. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 11%
Gérard Bertrand 2009 Grenache-Carignan (Fitou). This comes off a bit tight and
rustic, with astringent notes of black plum and cherry
skin, tea leaf, black olive and licorice root. A cigar tobacco accent unfolds on the palate and marries harmoniously with the black-fruit core, while peppery spice
lingers through the medium-length finish. Gerard Bertrand USA. —L.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
Borges 2011 Quinta de Simaens (Vinho
Verde). Simaens has produced a ripe style
of wine here. Apple and rich citrus flavors add a delicious touch to tropical fruit flavors. This wine is fit for
drinking in the next few months. Dionysos Imports Inc.
—R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 12%
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Gérard Bertrand 2009 Syrah-Grenache
(Languedoc). In keeping with the brand’s
overall style, this is another ripe and lush offering from
Gérard Bertrand. The bouquet floods the nostrils with
intense notes of dark berries and cherry, all soaked with
vanilla cream and sweet oak accents. The fruit takes
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Casa do Valle 2011 Vinho Verde. This is
a ripe, full wine, retaining Vinho Verde’s classic taut acidity, but rounded out with sweet apple and
lime flavors. It’s food friendly and would make for a fine
apéritif. Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 12.5%
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Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros Ten
Loureiro (Vinho Verde). This is light—the
Ten in the name refers to its alcohol level—dry, crisp
and fragrantly fresh. It is citrus dominant and deliciously refreshing—a wine that livens up the palate. Michael
abv: 10%
Price: $14
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Loureiro Reserva Bruto (Vinho Verde).
This crisp, bright sparkler gets depth of flavor from the
Loureiro grape. It has a taut texture that makes this
fruity, fresh wine a perfect match for food. Michael
abv: 12%
Price: $23
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Conde Vilar 2011 Branco (Vinho Verde).
This is classic Vinho Verde from the Quinta das
Arcas estate. It balances crispness with light sweetness
and sparkle. Acidity and an apple-skin texture give it a
dancing quality. Screwcap. The Vintner Group. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $11
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J. Portugal Ramos 2011 Lima Loureiro
(Vinho Verde). Produced in the Lima Valley,
home of the Loureiro grape, this is a light, floral offering. It’s dry yet soft, with fine, crisp acidity, apple and
pear fruits, and a refreshing, fruity finish. Screwcap.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $11
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Casal do Paço Padreiro NV Aphros Vinhão Super-Reserva Bruto (Vinho Verde).
Red sparkling wine is always an acquired taste, especially when it is a tannic, tart version like this. But this is as
fine as a red sparkling Vinho Verde can be. Pair it with
sardines. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $26
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Dao Sul 2011 Xadrez (Vinho Verde). This
fruity selection has light fizz and soft, gently
sweet flavors of citrus and grapefruit. With its crisp apple edge, this makes for a great apéritif. Aidil Wines &
Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $7
DOURO WHITES
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Conceito Vinhos 2011 Conceito Branco
(Douro). This rich, wood-aged wine is balanced and stylish. It shows the great potential for white
wine in the Douro, with its panoply of flavors ranging
from creamed apple to white peach, with a hint of herb.
It’s a fruity offering that will age for at least 3–4 years.
Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Conceito Vinhos 2010 Conceito Branco
(Douro). This needs to be decanted before
drinking: It takes its time to show off its flavors of rich
yellow fruit, textured apple and grapefruit, along with a
tense acidity. It is both rich and taut, a fine balancing act
that is still developing. Give this another three years in
the cellar. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
WineMag.com | 33
90
Muxagat 2010 Os Xistos Altos Rabigato
(Douro). Grown in the high schist soils of the
upper Douro Valley, this is a firm wine with a mineral
edge, bearing ripe peach and apple flavors. It’s finely
structured, rich in texture, and finishes with pure, crisp,
clean acidity. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Branco (Douro). There is an attractive floral
and fragrant quality about this wine, along with a light
herbaceousness. It is light, though with a good intensity
of fruit and a tang of citrus. For drinking now or over
the next 2–3 years. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Branco da Talha
(Alentejano). This blend of Antão Vaz and
Roupeiro has attractive touches of spice and toast accompanying its warm yellow and white fruits. It feels
rich and needs at least two years to age. Winebridge Imports. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $30
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Quinta de la Rosa 2011 Branco (Douro).
With its wood-aged character, which produces
toast and cinnamon flavors, this is serious, complex and
definitely fit for aging. The white estate wine of La Rosa
is ripe and creamy, its peach and citrus notes already
well integrated. Keep for 2–3 years. Winesellers Ltd.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
Quinta do Vallado 2011 Branco Reserva
(Douro). Soft and fruity, with a round texture,
this shows attractive melon and quince flavors, bearing
a hint of bright acidity at the back. It has weight, an oily
texture and lemon freshness on the finish. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
Price: $50
abv: 13.5%
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Conceito Vinhos 2010 Contraste Branco (Douro). This smooth, rounded wine has
touches of wood aging, along with a herbaceous character just now beginning to soften and fill out. It has
a light touch of spice along with apple and tangerine
notes. Ready to drink. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Muxagat 2011 Mux Branco (Douro). This
crisp, herbaceous selection is a blend of Rabigato and other rarer varieties. It has a citrus note and
lively acidity, with deep apple and pear flavors. There’s
a tangy, steely edge that suggests that the wine will age.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
PV Vinhos 2010 Egle (Douro). This is light
and bright, with crisp acidity and the fruitiness
of an attractive, early-drinking wine. Michael Skurnik
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
87
Conceito Vinhos 2011 Contraste Branco
(Douro). This grassy, herbaceous wine is crisp
and refreshing. It has citrus and orange zest notes, with
texture coming from its depth of flavor and its mineral
tang. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Quevedo 2011 Oscar’s Branco (Douro).
Soft and herbaceous, this is a warm wine, its
acidity leading to apricot and pineapple flavors. The apple skin texture and the tangy final acidity make it crisp.
P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
87
Quinta das Bandeiras 2011 Passagem
Branco (Douro). Full and fat, this has an oily,
ripe fruit texture—a sign of its warmth and richness. It’s
a food style of wine, with apricot and pear flavors that
are round and generous. Drink now. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Quinta de la Rosa 2011 Dourosa Branco (Douro). High-elevation vineyards produce
the fruit for this crisp, herbaceous wine. It has flavors
of ripe gooseberry and lime, with a light hint of nutmeg, immediately appealing in its fruitiness. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Borges 2011 Lello Branco (Douro). This
pretty, warm wine is touched with caramel and
yellow fruit flavors. It gets a kick from crisp lemon zest.
Drink in the coming months. Peninsula Beverage. Best
Buy. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 13%
DÃO WHITES
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Herdade do Esporão 2011 V Verdelho
(Alentejano). An increasingly impressive
Verdelho with each new vintage, this is the producer’s
best yet. It has warm, ripe apricot and pear flavors that
are intense and generous. The soft, rich texture is cut
by nervy acidity that gives the wine fine balance. Age
for one year. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Selection Branco (Alentejano). From southern Alentejano vineyards, this is a warm wine, yet one
that retains the right amount of freshness to balance its
toast flavor. A hint of mango ripeness lends a round, deliciously full feel. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
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Dao Sul 2011 Casa de Santar Branco
Reserva (Dão). This aromatic white is laden
with toast and white fruit notes. It is rich and smooth,
the toast character is well-blended with the melon, pear
and lime flavors. Its fruitiness makes it attractive. It
should be aged for at least two years. HGC Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Dao Sul 2011 Cabriz Colheita Seleccionada (Dão). This round and smooth wine has
apricot, peach and pear flavors, which create a soft texture and attractive acidity. It has a warm, rich feel. This
wine is for food. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Borges 2011 Meia Encosta (Dão). This
wine is very soft, rounded and gentle. A touch
of light pepper accompanies melon and creamed pear
flavors. It’s a good apéritif wine and it can be paired with
amuse-bouche. Peninsula Beverage. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
ALENTEJANO WHITES
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Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Reserva Branco (Alentejano). A nutmeg aroma leads to a
warm, ripe and spicy palate. Fermented and aged in
wood, it is full of pineapple and peach flavors, touched
only lightly by acidity. At this stage, this fine wine is
young and needs 2–3 years to show its potential fully.
Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Dao Sul 2010 Monte da Cal Vinha de
Saturno (Alentejano). Produced only in top
vintages, this is a ripe, wood-aged wine. The fragrant
aromas of its fruit are balanced by toast and spice. It is
warm, ripe and complex, a wine that could age for another 2–3 years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
Terra d’Alter 2011 Viognier (Alentejano).
This floral wine stongly shows Viognier’s hallmark apricot flavor. As one of a series of varetal wines
from Terra d’Alter, it has great fruitiness. It is nicely
touched with acidity and bears a round texture. Age for
a few months before drinking. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Terra d’Alter 2010 Reserva (Alentejano).
This intensely fruity wine is full of tropical fruit
notes, with delicious peach and apricot accents. Its
acidity is juicy and fragrant, filling out its crispness with
almost New World-fruit flavors. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Fitapreta Branco
(Alentejano). This full-bodied white is rich
and creamy. The dominating wood and ripe apricot
notes are cut with pineapple-tinged acidity to produce a
round yet clean finish. Winebridge Imports. —R.V.
Price: $19
abv: NA
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Terra d’Alter 2011 Alvarinho (Alentejano). This is a creamy, intensely fruit wine, with
lime and tropical fruit flavors, merely hinting at a minerally structure. It’s delicious and ready to drink now.
Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Terra d’Alter 2011 Verdelho (Alentejano).
Lightly spicy aromas give this an exotic feel. At
the same time, there is plenty of crisp, citrusy acidity,
along with a rounded melon texture. The wine is fullbodied, concentrated and will be ready to drink in six
months. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Terra d’Alter 2011 Arinto (Alentejano).
One of a series of varietal wines from Terra
d’Alter, this Arinto is full of the grape’s typical floral,
fragrant character. It has lemon and lime flavors that
are laced with acidity. It’s delicious, fruity and ready to
drink. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
86
Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Barão Branco (Alentejano). Very ripe and rich, this has
a smooth, oily texture, with a perfumed fruit character
and just a hint of acidity. The wine feels fat and is not for
aging. Vinos Unico. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Quinta do Quetzal 2011 Guadalupe Branco (Alentejano). This very fruity wine oozes
fresh apricot and elegant peach flavors. It’s crisp and fragrant, a fine, ready-to-drink blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Arinto. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Terra d’Alter 2011 Branco (Alentejano).
Herbaceous and crisp, this is a tangy wine, driven by lemon zest and fresh acidity. It’s cool, clean, bright
and fruity. Ready to drink now. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
85
Cortes de Cima 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Alentejano). This is a soft, tropical-fruitdriven Sauvignon Blanc made in a warm-climate style.
It has a clean, fresh character, with an apricot note and
a soft touch of orange zest. It’s fragrant, fruity and ready
to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Sexy Branco
(Alentejano). This ripe, soft wine features a
ripe white-fruit flavor with an attractive acidity that rolls
around the mouth. With its light acidity and a hint of
sweetness at the end, this is a delicious, fruity apéritif
wine. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $16
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Herdade do Esporão 2011 Alandra Branco (Alentejano). Bright and fruity, this has a
ripe applesauce flavor that’s cut with citrusy acidity. It’s
a great apéritif, with a soft texture and refreshing finish.
Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
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Herdade do Esporão 2011 Monte Velho
Branco (Alentejano). This is a particularly
successful white Monte Velho. It is rich and creamy, full
of ripe apple and refreshing acidity in equal measure.
Fruity and fragrant, it is ready to drink and will be delicious this summer. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Monte da Penha 2011 Montefino Branco
(Alentejano). This lively, fruity wine has fine
acidity that’s smoothed by creamy pear and green plum
flavors. There is a touch of sweetness—perhaps some
residual sugar—from grapes that were harvested when
very ripe. Drink over the next few months. Vino Cava.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Dao Sul 2011 Quinta do Encontro Encontro I (Bairrada). This is serious, complex and
age worthy. It balances wood-aged toast with peach,
apricot and crisp lime-juice flavors. From one of Bairrada’s top estates, this is worth keeping for 3–4 years. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
91
Quinta do Boição 2009 Special Selection Old Vineyards Arinto (Bucelas). This
is a ripe, wood-aged wine made from Arinto, the local
grape of Bucelas. Rich and full, it has a touch of lemon
that combines well with its tropical fruit flavors. It has
fine concentration and is ready to drink. Prestige Wine
Group. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Reserva Branco (Alentejo). Fermented in
oak, this is a big, bold and ripe wine made from grapes
sourced from the volcanic soil of Esporão. It has a
creamy texture that’s spiced with toast and tempered
with acidity. Its texture is smooth and rounded, and it’s
packed with ripe fruit. It’s a great wine to drink now, but
it will age over several years. Esporão Wines & Olive
Oils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Conde Vilar 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). This
full, ripe wine balances ripe melon and pear flavors with the crispness characteristic of this northern
region. It is cool, stylish and food friendly. It’s ready to
drink, but it could age 1–2 years. The Vintner Group.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
89
Dao Sul 2011 Quinta do Encontro Q do E Bical (Bairrada). This is a lightly wood-aged
wine, with melon and pear flavors that are rounded by a
toast character. Taut orange zest and lime notes balance
this softness. The aftertaste is fragrant, crisp and warm.
Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
sense of structure and a fine, elegant texture. Palm Bay
International. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
87
Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Régia Arinto (Lisboa). The vineyards of Quinta
da Romeira in cool-climate Bucelas are the source of
this elegant, fragrant wine. It has fine acidity, and apple
and pear fruits. The Arinto grape provides a lift of freshness on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
87
Companhia das Quintas 2011 Quinta do
Cardo Siria (Beira Interior). This tangy,
lemon-scented wine has a fine citrus flavor and a mineral touch due to its vineyard’s high altitude. It is zesty
and bright in character, with fresh final acidity. Importo
LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
86
Valle Pradinhos 2011 Branco (Transmontano). An exotic blend of Gewürztraminer,
Riesling and Malvasia Fina, this is a spicy, floral and
lively surprise from northeastern Portugal. With light
acidity and a citrus flavor, it is ready to drink now. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
85
Delaforce 2011 Alvarinho (Duriense).
The historic Port house of Delaforce has now
launched its own Douro table wines, and this Alvarinho
is soft and fruity. It has a creamy initial texture followed
by touches of vanilla and quince. This is not for aging, so
drink it now. Signature Imports. —R.V.
Price: $17
abv: 12.5%
85
Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Chardonnay and
Fernão Pires (Tejo). Round and soft, this features white fruit flavors filled out by a touch of smokiness and light acidity. It’s gentle, dry and full bodied.
Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
ROSÉS
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Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2010 Branco
Cerceal (Beiras). This ripe wine is dominated
by wood character. The Cerceal grape has a round, soft
feel, with spice notes balancing the apricot and peach
flavors. Age for 2–3 years. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
Dao Sul 2011 Quinta de Lourosa (Minho). This full-bodied selection hails from the
same region as Vinho Verde, offering creamy apricot
and ripe white-fruit notes. It has great depth of flavor,
with toast and spice tones as well as fragrant acidity.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Colecção
Privada Verdelho (Setubal). Full and ripe,
this balances round pear and peach flavors with intense
acidity. It is a beautifully fruity wine, one that also has a
Terra d’Alter 2011 Rosé (Alentejano).
This crisp, lightly spicy wine has attractive red
fruit. It’s refreshing yet still full and fruity. It’s bright and
touched by almond and rose hip flavors. Artisan Vines
Distributing. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 13%
Casa do Valle 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde).
Pale red in color, this fruity rosé was one of the
originals in the current pink Vinho Verde trend. It is
still one of the best. It has a lively, ripe strawberry note
accompanied by a touch of caramel and bright acidity.
Massanois Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 12.5%
José Maria da Fonseca 2011 Colecção
Privada Moscatel Roxo (Setubal). With its
perfumed aroma, this is an immediately attractive rosé
that’s made from the pink-skinned Moscatel Roxo. Its
flavors are crisp; its acidity is touched by yellow peach
WineMag.com | 35
and rosewater flavors. Drink now. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
This serious, structured offering should be aged for 4–5
years. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Rosé Vinhão (Vinho Verde). The Vinhão’s
red juice gives this rosé its orange-pink color. It also produces the high acidity that marks this as a wine from the
cool north. Light and fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $NA
84
Conde Vilar 2011 Rosé Espadeiro (Vinho
Verde). This bright pink wine is lightly sweet
and full of strawberry flavor. It is crisp, clean and fragrant—delicious as an apéritif. Screwcap. The Vintner
Group. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
84
Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Rosé (Tejo). A
blend of Shiraz and Touriga Nacional, this pinkcolored selection is bright, crisp and full of red fruit
flavors. It is soft and a touch sweet, though it finishes
with crisp acidity. Screwcap. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
84
Valle Pradinhos 2011 Rosé (Trás-osMontes). Orange-pink in color, this is a warm
style of rosé. Its richness is contrasted with the tangy,
orange-zest-like acidity. A blend of Tinta Roriz and
Touriga Nacional, it will be ready to drink this winter.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
DOURO REDS
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Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Red (Douro). Capable of standing alongside the great Ports of
Vesuvio, this table wine reveals the fantastic quality of
its vineyard. It is both powerful and elegant, a woodaged wine bearing a dense, dark flavor of black plum,
with damson-tinged acidity. This impressive wine needs
more than 5–6 years of aging. Premium Port Wines,
Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $73
94
Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Chryseia
(Douro). For full review see page 5. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
93
Conceito Vinhos 2009 Conceito (Douro).
A superripe example of the rich 2009 vintage,
this is dense, laden with wood and black fruit. It has
considerable concentration, offering a powerful counterpoint to the fruit and layered acidity. The richness
creates an intense texture, and it needs to soften for
a minimum of four years. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
93
Quinta do Vallado 2010 Reserva Field
Blend (Douro). Using a blend of grapes
sourced from old vines, this is powerful, dense and
very concentrated. At the same time, an elegance lightens the wine’s weight and integrates all of its elements.
Conceito Vinhos 2010 Conceito (Douro).
Firmly tannic and still dominated by new wood,
this is dense and brooding. It has the typically mineral
feel of a fine Douro wine. Concentrated, brambly fruits
and a powerful structure make this a wine that needs
to age for at least five years. Vin de Terra Imports, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Quinta do Sagrado 2007 Red (Douro).
This is made in open stone lagars, and it bears
a Port-like richness while retaining the firm structure
of a Douro red. It is big, fruity, and firmly dry. Age for
4–5 years. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Bomfim Reserva (Douro). For full review
see page 9. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Quinta dos Murças 2008 Reserva (Douro). This wine, the first vintage produced by the
Esporão winemaking team, gives fine, elegant Douro
tannins along with new wood and rich flavors of damson
and blackberry. It is structured, powerful and very age
worthy. Keep for at least four years. Esporão Wines &
Olive Oils. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
Muxagat 2010 Mux Tinto (Douro). This
smooth and rich selection is wood aged and
full of ripe, juicy black fruits. Made from grapes
sourced from vineyards in the upper valley of the Douro, it showcases its tough, mineral soil while retaining
its dense weight. Worth aging for at least four years.
Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $30
Quinta do Vallado 2010 Touriga Nacional (Douro). This is an impressive, powerful
and age-worthy wine, with dense tannins that are layered with black fruit and cut with acidity. The 16-month
wood-aging regimen shows in the wine’s rounded character. Age for 2–3 years. Quintessential Wines. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Quinta do Vesuvio 2009 Pombal de Vesuvio (Douro). Smooth and rich, this is full of
generous, opulent black-fruit flavors. This second wine
from the legendary Vesuvio estate is a grand cru in its
own right—powerful, structured and full of extremely
ripe fruit. It is delicious, but will benefit from 3–4 years
of aging. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
Price: $28
abv: 14%
91
Borges 2009 Reserva Tinto (Douro). Produced from estate-grown grapes, this is an impressive blend of ripe fruit, black and dense in style and
very concentrated. The wine has weight and richness,
dark plum and firm structure that is cut by a steel shaft
of acidity. It’s worth aging for another 3–4 years. Saraiva
Enterprises. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Quinta das Bandeiras 2009 Passagem (Douro). A joint venture between the
Bergqvists of Quinta de la Rosa and winemaker Jorge
Moreiro in the Douro Superior has produced this impressive, deeply rich offering. It has firm tannins that
are supported by blackberry and red plum flavors, with
a piercing line of acidity. With its concentration, it needs
at least four years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Caves Velhas 2009 Mouro Basto Reserva (Douro). This is serious and solid, full of
rich black fruit and dense tannins. Its weight brings out
intense fruitiness and balancing acidity. Made mostly
from Touriga Nacional, this is a wine that could age for
several more years. Prestige Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Dao Sul 2010 Quinta das Tecedeiras Flor
de Tecedeiras (Douro). While it is densely
packed with fruit, this is also an elegant wine made from
old vines in the Tecedeiras Vineyard in the Douro. It
has a firm structure dominated by spice and mineral.
The acidity of the black currant fruit gives this a longterm future. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Prats & Symington LDA 2010 Post Scriptum de Chryseia (Douro). Ripe and complex, this has big, spicy fruit that rises above the tannins
to give a sweet, full mouthfeel. Below the fruit, the dry
tannins and wood aging promise the aging potential of
three years. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
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PV Vinhos 2007 VT ’07 (Douro). Made
using grapes sourced from old vines, this is a
densely concentrated, solid and full. It feels spacious
and generous, with black fruit and dark chocolate upfront, backed by dark, brooding tannins. Acidity on
the finish gives a breath of freshness. Age for another
3–4 years. Michaek Skurnik Wines. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
90
Quevedo 2009 Cláudia’s Reserve (Douro). For full review see page 10.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
90
Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Touriga Nacional (Douro). While this wine is certainly tannic, the structure is beautifully cushioned by velvety,
ripe black fruit. This has produced a rich, soft, dense
wine that can certainly age for 2–3 years, yet is also
ready to drink now. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
90
Quinta do Ataíde Reserva (Douro). For
full review see page 11.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Delaforce 2009 Touriga Nacional (Douro). This is pure Touriga Nacional, showing the
variety’s natural perfumes and firm, structured tannins.
Black currant flavor and a touch of oak gives fruit and
roundness to the structure. Age for 1–2 years. Signature
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
a fine shaft of acidity. This single-vineyard offering is
worth aging for 2–3 years. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
with a core of tough tannins. It is rich, fruity and ready
to drink. Signature Imports. —R.V.
Price: $17
abv: 14%
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Quinta do Vallado 2010 Vallado (Douro).
This is the entry-level wine from Vallado, bright
and fruity, with an attractive red-berry flavor and a solid, tannic core. As is typical with the 2010 vintage, it
has some structure and should be aged for another year.
Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Quinta de Ventozelo 2010 QV Tinto (Douro). This jammy, fruity offering tastes as though
it were made from overripe fruit. Its light structure offers acidity and a Port-like character. Not for aging. Signature Imports. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
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DÃO REDS
Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Reserva (Douro). This is a big, bold, extracted selection that
has a burnt edge to it from the wood. It’s tannic and
structured, and the note of black plum skin is lost at this
stage in its life. It does have the weight to integrate well,
so give it 3–4 years. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Quinta do Vallado 2010 Sousão (Douro).
Known for its ability to produce deeply colored
wine, Sousão has made a wine with a rough-edged character, which gives it a firm, solid and chunky feel. A
dense layer of acidity adds balance. Age for 1–2 years.
Quintessential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Organically Farmed Vineyards (Douro).
This wine comes from the Vilariça vineyards in the far
east of the Douro. It is pure, rounded and rich, with
tannins that are well melded with its blackberry fruits.
Wood is present with restraint, producing a wine that
has ripeness, style and the ability to age. Vineyard
Brands. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Bomfim (Douro). For full review see page 13.
Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
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Muxagat 2011 Tinta Barocca (Douro).
Typically earthy in style, this is an elegant version of one of the Douro’s lesser grapes. It has a red
plum flavor and sweet tannins, with a soft, rounded
structure. It should be consumed soon while it’s still
fruity. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Quevedo 2010 Oscar’s Tinto (Douro). Oscar Quevedo is one member of a new generation of winemakers bringing a breath of fresh air to the
Douro. His everyday wines, like this one, are friendly,
fruity and delicious when consumed young. This is a
great wine for barbecue. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Quinta do Sagrado 2008 Sagrado Tinto
(Douro). This relies on its ripe fruit to convey the rich flavors of the Douro. Its black fruit flavors
dominate the broad tannic structure, with a light hint
of wood aging. It’s bold, chunky and ready to drink. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Conceito Vinhos 2009 Contraste (Douro). The second wine from Conceito, this is
ripe and ready to drink. Boasting full, ripe, red fruit that
is slightly cut by tannins and acidity, this has a forward,
accessible and fruity character. Drink now. Vin de Terra
Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Quinta dos Murças 2009 Assobio (Douro). This finely structured wine from the Quinta dos Murcas estate has ripe flavors of spice and red
berry. Its warm feel is shot through with acidity for the
perfect amount of tension. You can drink this now, but
it would benefit from another year of aging. Esporão
Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
Prats & Symington LDA 2009 Quinta de
Roriz Prazo de Roriz (Douro). This second
wine from Quinta de Roriz is ripe, warm and ready to
drink. With its ripe black fruits, soft tannins, layers of
wood spices and just a hint of acidity, it’s a rich offering
from a big vintage. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
88
Quinta de la Rosa 2010 Dourosa (Douro).
Smooth and rounded, this has the dense character of Douro wines, with open flavors of spice and black
currant. The junior wine of Quinta de la Rosa, this is
balanced and will be ready to drink in a year. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
Quinta de Ventozelo 2009 Tinto (Douro).
Showcasing the richness of 2009 without sacrificing fine structure, this is stylish and concentrated.
Dark black fruit accompanies a tight, minerality and
94
Dao Sul 2009 Casa de Santar Conde de
Santar (Dão). The aristocratic estate of Santar
produces some of the most elegant wines in the Dão.
The 2009 vintage adds richness to a deep, complex and
powerful wine, which is full of dark plum and damson
flavors, rounded by wood aging. Age for 3–4 years.
HGC Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $46
abv: 14.5%
93
Dao Sul 2008 Casa de Santar Reserva
(Dão). The historic vineyard of Casa de Santar
in the heart of the Dão region has produced a dense and
powerful offering, with rich tannins and black fruits. Its
intense, solid blackberry and spice flavors are followed
by acidity, contributing complexity. Age for at least four
years. HGC Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $27
abv: 14%
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TEJO REDS
Bernard Magrez 2009 Esperança (Douro). This is firm, with an almost-burnt toast
flavor. It is packed with fruit and dominating woody
tannins, so give it at least two years to soften. Bernard
Magrez USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
86
PV Vinhos 2009 PV (Douro). Relying on
ripe fruit rather than a lot of wood aging, this is
stylish and full of red fruit, with soft, dusty tannins and
fragrant acids. It has some weight and concentration,
but the ripe fruitiness is the dominant characteristic.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
86
(Douro). Named for the air currents that allow
birds to float above the Douro, this wine is ripe, full and
soft. The wood shows quite strongly at this stage, and
another year’s aging will bring out the black currant note
further. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
85
Delaforce 2009 Tinto (Douro). In this rich,
earthy wine, plum and licorice flavors combine
Dao Sul 2010 Paça dos Cunhas de Santar Nature (Dão). Huge and dense, this is solidly built around dark tannins and a plum jelly flavor.
With its concentration, the wine has weight, density, a
core of dryness and juicy, seemingly sweet fruit. FJN
Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
86
Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Cabernet Sauvignon and Aragones (Tejo). In this ripe,
warm and fruity wine, tannins create a firm bed for the
rich flavors of red plum and juicy berry. The soft, rounded finish makes it a perfect candidate for young consumption. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
86
Falua 2011 Tagus Creek Shiraz and
Trincadeira (Tejo). It seems quite right to call
the grape Shiraz rather than Syrah in this blend, because the wine has a ripe, sweetly fruity style reminiscent of Australia. It is broad and full of black fruit, laced
with acidity and finished with a warm edge of tannin.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
84
Falua 2011 Tâmara (Tejo). With touches of
wood and spice, this is round, soft and ready to
drink. It has a core of red fruit flavor and an attractive
touch of cool-climate acidity. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
WineMag.com | 37
ALENTEJO REDS
92
Monte da Penha 2005 Grande Reserva
(Alentejo). Powerful and concentrated, this is
just at its peak. Ripe, rich fruit and tarry tannins give it
freshness and a dry core. It’s solid and serious, a dense
wine that calls for equally rich food. Drink it now while
it’s at its prime. Vino Cava. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
91
Reserva (Alentejo). For full review see page
9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
88
Herdade dos Machedos 2007 Santos
Jorge Reserva (Alentejo). Perfectly ready
to drink, this full-bodied red, a blend of Aragonez,
Trincadeira, Alfrocheiro and Castelão, is rich and spicy,
packed with baked plum and layered with tannins. It
tastes concentrated and solidly ripe. Sarmento’s Imports
& Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 14.5%
87
Monte da Penha 2005 Reserva (Alentejo). Totally mature, this shows a rustic character
and firm, tarry tannins. It is weighty and dense, with a
patina of sweet flavors that come with age. Drink it over
the next few months. Vino Cava. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
ALENTEJANO REDS
93
Herdade do Esporão 2009 S Syrah (Alentejano). This is a gorgeous wine that’s driven by
notes of spice and new wood. The wood is supported by
ripe flavors of plum, damson and blackberry juice, with
tight acidity. The Alentejo’s dry climate is certainly suited to Syrah, producing fine structure. Age for 3–4 years.
Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
92
Terra d’Alter 2009 Outeiro (Alentejano).
From the highest point of the Herdade da
Boavista Vineyard in Alentejo, this is complex, mineral
driven and structured. It combines great fruitiness with
spice, intense acidity and dark smokiness. Best aged for
at least three years. Artisan Vines Distributing. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
91
Dao Sul 2009 Monte da Cal Vinha de
Saturno (Alentejano). A huge, superrich selection, this was named in commemoration of Galileo’s
discovery of Saturn in 1610. It features a fine combination of smoky wood and big, juicy black-fruit flavors.
The texture is dense, with dark chocolate and spice
pushing through a layer of fresh acidity. The wine could
be drunk now, but will age for 2–3 years. Aidil Wines &
Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
91
Granadeiro 2008 Tapada do Fidalgo
(Alentejano). From Reguengos de Monsaraz
in southern Alentejo, this is packed with superripe,
powerful fruit. It is balanced and laced with acidity. Its
great richness is foiled by the carefully etched black cur38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012
rant and plum flavors. Ready to drink now. Vinos Unico.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Herdade do Esporão 2009 AB Alicante
Bouschet (Alentejano). Among the varietal
wines produced by Esporão, this new wood-aged offering is rich, powerful and concentrated, with smooth
edges. The wood’s smokiness combines with black plum
and sweet juice flavors. It can certainly age. Esporão
Wines & Olive Oils. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
91
Monte da Penha 2005 Montefino Reserva
(Alentejano). This aromatic wine is impressively rich and full of fresh fruit. Well-balanced and
smooth, it has a ripe blackberry jelly note and a fine layer of acidity. This can be aged for a year, but it can certainly be consumed now. Vino Cava. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
91
Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Reserva (Alentejano). Ripe and opulent, this is full of warm
red fruits that are overlaid on a solid base of tannin.
It’s powerful and concentrated, and the wood aging is
revealed in the form of a balanced touch of spice. It’s
ready to drink, though it could certainly age for another
2–3 years. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Terra d’Alter 2009 Telhas (Alentejano).
This classic Northern Rhône-style blend of Syrah and Viognier from granite soil has produced a big,
tough wine. The dark tannins are lightened ever-soslightly by the Viognier. It’s rich and full bodied, a complex wine with charming swagger. Best aged for a year
or two. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
90
89
Granadeiro 2009 Poli Phonia Reserva
(Alentejano). Made in marble-lined open fermenters, this is a smooth, rich and silky wine. It has a
ripe black-plum flavor, with sweet tannins and acidity
on the finish. The alcohol, however, does show through
as a peppery burn on the tongue. Vinos Unico. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
89
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Colheita
Seleccionada (Alentejano). This is a rich,
dark-colored wine, its blackness due to the presence of
Alicante Bouschet in the blend. It is big and dense, with
a new wood flavor. Accompanying this toastiness are
black fruits, with a bitter edge and fine acids. Age this
for three years. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
89
Monte da Penha 2008 Red (Alentejano).
Concentrated and wood aged, this has flavors of
vanilla, red plum and blackberry. The tannins have a tarry, firm character that brings out the wine’s richness. It
is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet
and Touriga Nacional. Vino Cava. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
88
Cortes de Cima 2009 Petit Verdot (Alentejano). Cortes de Cima’s Petit Verdot is one
of a handful of Portugese wines made from this grape.
This is a big, bold, dark-colored wine, perfumed with
mint and herb. It’s very ripe and rich, with a chunky,
jammy texture. It’s not for long aging—give it 2–3 years.
Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Dao Sul 2010 Monte da Cal (Alentejano).
Smooth, soft and powerfully rounded, this is
made from concentrated grapes grown in the hot eastern Alentejo. Flavors of spice, black plum and rich damson jelly abound. The tannins and acids provide a gentle
thrust at the end. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Herdade de São Miguel 2010 Herdade
da Pimenta (Alentejano). This big, bold red
is very powerful and intense, with rich black fruit and
solid tannins. It has spicy touches of pimento and pepper, giving an edge to its texture. It’s a concentrated selection that should age for another 2–3 years. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Reserva (Alentejano). Huge weight and alcohol show strongly
in this powerful wine. Its flavors, almost jammy in their
ripeness, include sweet plum and damson. It needs to
age for at least four years. Winebridge Imports. —R.V.
Price: $19
abv: 15%
90
88
Quinta do Mouro 2008 Casa dos Zagalos Reserva (Alentejano). An estate wine
from the same producer as Monte Branco, this is elegant and sophisticated. With Cabernet Sauvignon added to a blend of Alentejo grapes, it has rich fruit in fine
proportion, with tannins and balanced acidity. Age for
another 2–3 years. Vinoterra Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
90
Terra d’Alter 2009 Aragonez (Alentejano). This is a smooth, rounded wine, showing
the elegant side of this Portuguese version of Tempranillo. It certainly has richness, but this is well handled,
leaving a delicious, fruity wine to drink now. Artisan
Vines Distributing. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
88
Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Fidalgo
(Alentejano). This is dense, with its tannins
still working hard to restrain the vivid fruit that, while
evident now, is waiting to really burst. Its blackberry flavor dominates and contributes to a fresh aftertaste. Age
for 2–3 years. Vinos Unico. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Monte Branco 2009 Vinha do Mouro
(Alentejano). This is marked by bold, dense
and rich fruit. It has a sweet, soft character and is deliciously fruity. Packed with blackberry-juice acidity and
ripe red plum, this is ready to drink now. Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
88
Terra d’Alter 2010 Red (Alentejano). This
rich, smooth wine is driven by its ripe fruitiness. It is warm and rounded, combining black and red
fruit with a harmonizing shot of licorice. Give it a few
months, but it is nearly ready to drink. Artisan Vines
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Terra d’Alter 2010 Alfrocheiro (Alentejano). This wood-aged selection is soft and opulently smooth, with milk chocolate and black cherry
flavors. It has some concentration, which is overlaid by
its soft texture. Ready to drink. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
87
Cortes de Cima 2010 Trincadeira (Alentejano). Rich and soft, this is marked by a
powerful black-fruit flavor rather than by strong tannins. There is nothing subtle in this hugely dense and
concentrated offering. Ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Granadeiro 2011 Tapada do Barão Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Ripe and
fruity, this is firm and concentrated; its structure comes
from the Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It has plenty
of weight and should be aged for another year. Vinos
Unico. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
87
Monte da Penha 2007 Montefino (Alentejano). Soft, warm and lightly tannic, this has an
herbaceous character. Its fresh acidity balances its black
currant flavor. It is fragrant, fruity and mature; ready to
drink. Vino Cava. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
87
Quinta do Quetzal 2010 Guadalupe Tinto
(Alentejano). Firm and obviously wood aged,
this has a red plum flavor and some bitterness from
the highly toasted wood. It has richness and spice; aging may soften the wood character. Laurel Importers.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Terra d’Alter 2010 Touriga Nacional
(Alentejano). This very ripe interpretation of
Touriga Nacional brings out a dark black-plum flavor,
which hides the grape’s natural tannins. It is chunky,
with powerful, forward fruit. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Portas da
Herdade Reserva (Alentejano). This is
a full-bodied, fruity selection that’s packed with a red
berry flavor, soft tannins and a delicious, forward and
bright character. It is already ready to drink. Importo
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
85
Conde Vilar 2010 Tinto (Alentejano).
Warm, soft and fruity, this has notes of spices,
soft tannins and a light touch of acidity. Reflecting the
warm vineyards of the Alentejo, it is ready to drink now.
The Vintner Group. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Fitapreta Vinhos 2011 Sexy Tinto (Alentejano). A blend of Portuguese grapes with Cabernet Sauvignon, this is attractive and softly fruity. Its
black fruit and gentle tannins make it completely ready
to drink. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
85
Herdade de São Miguel 2011 Ciconia
(Alentejano). A blend of Touriga Nacional,
Syrah and Aragonez, this is open, generous and easy. It
has attractive red fruits that are balanced by acidity and
a soft tannic backbone. Ready to drink. Screwcap. TriVin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
85
Herdade do Esporão 2011 Monte Velho
(Alentejano). This soft, balanced selection has
warm, ripe red fruits that are laced with acidity. With its
spicy edge and open texture, this is ready to drink now.
Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
87
85
87
84
Quinta do Quetzal 2008 Guadalupe Tinto
(Alentejano). This is an oak-aged wine full of
ripe red-plum and highly toasted wood flavors. The two
do not yet completely harmonize, with the burnt wood
still dominating the fruit. Another year should do the
trick. Laurel Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Terra d’Alter 2009 Alicante Bouschet
(Alentejano). The Alicante Bouschet grape’s
red juice has produced a wine of intensely dark color.
The texture is creamy, and the flavors of berry and coffee are rounded. There is a fine touch of spice, although
pepper from the alcohol does intrude. Artisan Vines
abv: 15%
Price: $17
87
Terra d’Alter 2009 Reserva (Alentejano).
Ripe, soft fruits give this wine a rich and open
character. It is an attractive, ready-to-drink wine, with
added complexity from black plum, spice and herb. Artisan Vines Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Monte Branco 2009 Alento Reserva
(Alentejano). This is a huge wine—almost
too much so—with superripe tannins and fruit. It tastes
concentrated, its black fruit sweet and rounded. A pepper note comes from the alcohol and gives it a bitter
edge. Vinoterra Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
Herdade do Esporão 2011 Alandra (Alentejano). This wine is a blend created using
grapes sourced from vineyard sites, giving it a ripe,
full-bodied character. It is smooth, almost New-World
in style, but with an edge of tannins and acidity. Drink
this wine now. Esporão Wines & Olive Oils. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
83
Monte Branco 2010 Alento Tinto (Alentejano). This seems raw round the edges, with
a tough, extracted, herbal character due to the tannins
and fruit imbalance. It’s still young, but this style of wine
should be drinkable now. Vinoterra Importers. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
OTHER RED WINES
90
Dao Sul 2010 Quinta do Encontro Q do E
(Bairrada). This firmly tannic wine, a blend of
Baga and Merlot, is juicy and strongly structured. Black
currant and tight blackberry notes surround the solid,
dry core of fruit and wood tannins. The wine needs to
age for at least three years. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
90
Delaforce 2007 Touriga Nacional-Cabernet Sauvignon (Duriense). Two naturally tannic grapes have produced a wine of surprising richness and softness. It has qualities of blackberry
and herb; its tannins are now well-integrated after 18
months in wood and three years in bottle. It’s big, ripe,
spicy and ready to drink. Signature Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
90
Valle Pradinhos 2007 Reserva (Transmontano). This rich wine—as rugged as the
Transmontano terrain—has a firm tannic structure,
bearing sweet-tasting blackberry fruit, with acidity that
cuts the tannins. It’s ready to drink, but could age for
three years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
89
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2009 Silenus
Vinhão (Vinho Verde). Oak aging gives richness to this red Vinho Verde; its spice and acidity balanced with its red currant flavor and some weight from
the tannins. It’s an intriguing hybrid, halfway between a
crisp Vinho Verde and a full-bodied warm-climate red.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Casal do Paço Padreiro 2011 Aphros Vinhão (Vinho Verde). If any producer is going
to make sense of Vinhão in red Vinho Verde, it’s biodynamic producer Casal do Paço Padreiro. This has some
richness as well as the typical cool-climate acidity, with
a touch of spice and a balanced, smooth finish. Drink
within the year. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
87
Valle Pradinhos 2007 Tinto (Transmontano). This is a firmly tannic wine, but it has
enough rich fruit to sustain the tannins. It has a dry mineral quality. At five years old, it is ready to drink, though
the dry structure remains present. This is a blend of
Tinta Amarela, Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga Nacional. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
83
Valle Pradinhos 2010 Porta Velha (Trásos-Montes). This earthy wine has blackcurrant acidity, awkward dry tannins and a tough texture.
The aftertaste is medicinal and herbal. Aidil Wines &
Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
PORT
89
Barão de Vilar 2005 PV Collections Late
Bottled Vintage Port. Coming from footstomped fruit in open granite lagars, this LBV feels traWineMag.com | 39
ditional and intensely rich. Although it is ready to drink,
its firm tannins, combined with the damson jelly flavor
and still-integrating spirit, will enable it to age for several years. First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
89
Dao Sul 2008 Quinta das Tecedeiras LBV
Late Bottled Vintage Port. This is a finely
balanced LBV with structure complementing the luscious black-fruit and raisin flavors. The wine is rich and
densely textured, very smooth and unctuous. Big tannins suggest that the wine could age. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $20
88
Barão de Vilar NV 10 Anos Collections
Tawny Port. This 10-year-old tawny is on the
fruity side of this style. It is an easy, dried-fruit-flavored
wine with a texture like smooth toffee. Hints of apricot and milk chocolate grace the finish of this ripe Port.
First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 20%
88
Quevedo 2010 Quinta Vale d’Agodinho
Vintage Port. This Port is structured, with
notes of mint and herb. It has blackberry jam flavor and
a firm, solid structure, while it also shows intense youthful fruitiness. It is rich and full, showing some firm tannins. Either drink it right now, or leave it for 10 years.
P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $75
87
Barão de Vilar NV PV Tawny Port Collections. This sweet and ripe tawny is touched by
flavors of raisin, rich red fruit and spice. It has a smooth,
toffee texture that’s attractively leavened with acidity.
Like all tawny Ports, it is ready to drink. First National
Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $NA
86
Barão de Vilar NV PV White Port Collections. A sweet style of white Port, this is deliciously full of sultana, ripe date and a tang of orange. It’s
young and fruity, delicious by itself or in a cocktail. First
National Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $NA
85
Barão de Vilar NV PV Ruby Port Collections. This is soft, young and fruity, with a dominating red-plum flavor. It makes for a fine apéritif, with
its open, warm and ready-to-drink character. First National Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 19.5%
Price: $NA
BRAZIL
WHITE WINE
82
Vinícola Aurora NV Carnaval Moscato
(Brazil). This is jumpy and aggressive on the
nose, with lemon-lime aromas akin to Sprite. Grabby
almost to the point of being cloying, it is driven by classic Moscato flavors of lime and sweet lychee. It’s chalky
without a good follow through. ABB Partners, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $15
SPARKLING WINES
83
Villaggio Grando 2011 Brut (Santa Catarina). This opens with dusty dried-apple aromas. High acidity preserves its composure even though
the fruit is marginal and vacillates between flavors of
apple and lemony citrus. Wine Twist. —M.S.
abv: 11.3%
Price: $31
82
Salton NV Gerações Espumante Nature
(Brazil). Applesauce and wheat aromas immediately make this wine slightly unappealing. In the
mouth, it feels bubbly and fruity, with candied apple
and orange flavors, followed by a finish that’s a mix of
sweet corn and dry citrus. A & M Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $26
RED WINES
86
Villaggio Grando NV Innominabile Lote
IV (Santa Catarina). This is mentholated and
spicy, with a brandied cherry note as the dominant aroma. Tight but not too severe, it would pair well with
meat. Its flavors of raspberry and dry plum are tasty, and
the finish hits hard with tightness featuring dry raspberry and cherry skin. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab
Franc, Merlot and Malbec. Wine Twist. —M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $35
82
Casa Perini 2008 Tannat (Vale Trentino).
Notes of cherry and wet-animal fur define the
nose. The palate is lean and juicy, with acidity and tannic grip. It tastes tart and shallow, with foxy red-fruit flavors. Uva Oliva Inc. (Peninsula Beverage LLC). —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
82
Lidio Carraro 2010 Agnus Encruzilhada
do Sul Merlot (Serra do Sudeste). This
wine’s cola, forest floor, cherry and cassis aromas are
promising, but on the palate it’s a tannic crusher, with
mouth-blasting acids. It feels abrasive and tastes of rubbery black fruits. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
URUGUAY
RED WINE
87
Artesana 2010 Estate Blend Tannat-Merlot (Canelones). This classic South American
red has robust, rustic berry aromas that are matched by
chewing gum, animal hide and spice. This is muscular
stuff, with oaky, spicy, drying flavors of dark cherry and
fudge. It’s not a cuddly wine; it could use some aging.
Epic Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
CHILE
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Bodega Volcanes de Chile 2011 Pomerape Limited Edition Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This wine gets going with aromas of grass,
citrus and mineral. Next comes a chiseled palate, bear-
ing tight, pure flavors of lime, pink grapefruit and green
herb. It’s elegant and has a minerally, just-long-enough
finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
Maycas del Limari 2011 Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí Valley).
Minerally and mildly salty, this has white-fruit aromas
of citrus and pear. It feels true and lively, with green,
tropical notes of lime and apple along with chalky minerals. Mellow and smooth, it’s long on the finish. Banfi
Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
90
Montes 2011 Outer Limits Beyond Frontiers Zappallar Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
(Aconcagua Valley). This is a perfectly nice Sauvignon Blanc from stand-alone vineyards in Zapallar. The
nose features a varietal aroma of white pepper and a piquant hint of green. The acid-driven palate bears lime,
tangerine and bell pepper flavors. T.G.I.C. Importers.
—M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 13%
89
Koyle 2011 Koyle Costa Sauvignon
Blanc (Colchagua Costa). This is snappy in
the front of the palate, with green pea, bell pepper, tangerine and grass aromas. It feels alert, crisp and citric,
with dry lime, grapefruit and pole bean flavors that culminate in lemon and persistent grapefruit notes on the
finish. A linear, high-acid style of Sauvignon Blanc, this
has definite coastal influences. Quintessential Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
89
Undurraga 2011 Sibaris Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley).
Composed, correct and minerally on the nose, this wine
has typical and attractive pungent-green aromas. It feels
zesty and crisp, with cutting acidity in support of grassy,
classically Leyda flavors of lime, grapefruit and lemongrass. It’s angular but long on the finish. Testa Wines Of
The World. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
88
Undurraga 2011 Aliwen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó and Leyda Valleys).
Fresh and grassy up front, with bell pepper, tropical
fruit and citrus aromas, this features briny flavors of
lime, grapefruit and tarragon. The finish is controlled,
and tangy. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Kingston Family 2011 Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Crisp,
green and snappy on the nose, this is however not as defined, cut or chiseled on the palate as in previous vintages. It tastes grassy, bordering on vegetal, but also a little
wayward and soft. Kingston Family Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Piggy Bank 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui
Valley). This opens with an oily note that’s soon
replaced by generic white peach and apple scents. It
feels plump, with chunky flavors of citrus, kiwi and lime,
and it’s mild yet fairly long on the tail end. Well-Oiled
Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
nana and mango. It’s flabby on the finish. Arcadia Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
86
14% white Carmenère. It shows mellow oak notes and
latent acidity on the finish. Schwartz Olcott Imports.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
CHARDONNAY
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Miguel Torres 2011 Cordillera Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Popcorn and nutty notes
announce the ample oak, but a complex combination
of mineral and baked white-fruit aromas also emerge.
It feels big, layered and chunky, but with good acidity
and some finesse. It tastes of candied apple, melon and
sweet peach, with a fleshy finish and lasting oak. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
85
Miguel Torres 2012 Santa Digna Reserve
Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). The
snap pea, tarragon, scallion and passion fruit aromas
make this wine easy to identify as Sauvignon Blanc. It
feels linear and razor sharp, with sizzling grapefruit and
apple flavors. Tangy and very fresh, it turns to lime and
green onion on the finish. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
William Cole 2011 Columbine Special
Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca
Valley). Cool and green smelling, with briny notes and
whiffs of green pepper and sea foam, this shows intensity, while the flavors veer toward lime, passion fruit and
green herb. It’s nervy and tasty on the finish. Global
Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
85
Echeverria 2012 Classic Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó Valley). This is mild
and lightly citric smelling, with an ocean spray note on
the bouquet. On the palate, it is fresh and deep, with
a note of nectarine. The finish is solid, but loses some
fruit and gains some bitterness. Viña Echeverria. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
84
Cono Sur 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Valley). On the nose, this smells like bath soap
or air freshener. It feels fleshy and oily on the palate,
with tropical flavors of banana and papaya. The finish
is smooth and tastes of candy. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
84
François Lurton 2012 Hacienda Araucano Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Lolol Valley). The standard Sauvignon Blanc aromas of lime and
mineral define the nose of this wine. It tastes juicy to an
extreme, with fruit flavors of nectarine and apple that
don’t rise to a high level. It’s tangy, candied and bright
on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Root:1 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Pungent up front, with green
herb, white pepper and citrus aromas, this is zesty and
acidic on the palate, with a monotonous lemon flavor
on the finish. It turns more tart and acidic as it airs.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
83
Viña Chocalan 2011 Selección Sauvignon Blanc (Maipo Valley). For wine drinkers who don’t mind briny aromas, here is a wine with
a funky-oyster quality on the nose. This adequate wine
tastes of orange, brine, asparagus and pickled beans. It’s
juicy and plump on the tail end. Domaine Select Wine
Estates. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
82
Quasar 2011 Selection Sauvignon Blanc
(Molina). Soapy on the nose, this feels soft,
melony and low in acid, while the flavors suggest ba-
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Undurraga 2010 Sibaris Reserva Especial Chardonnay (Maipo Valley). Toasty,
inviting aromas of apple and melon lead to a balanced
palate with layered flavors of resiny oak, pear and peach.
The finish continues with resin and oak, but by then it
has already established itself as a well-balanced wine,
with tasty flavors of white and tropical fruit. Testa Wines
Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
86
Casa Silva 2011 Angostura Gran Reserva Chardonnay (Colchagua Valley). This
wine smells subtly of hickory and resin but is otherwise
neutral on the nose. It feels creamy, smooth and woody,
with oak leading the flavor profile, with other notes of
melon and honey. This is a plump, oaky, honeyed style
of Chardonnay. Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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De Martino 2011 Legado Reserva Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). Fleshy and borderline mealy on the nose, with banana and melon as the
primary aromas, this feels heavy even though firm acidity creates spine and depth. It tastes like a mash-up of
apple, melon and baking spice before the chunky finish.
Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Laroche 2011 Punto Niño Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). This new
wine from the Laroche family of Chablis is a good,
though standard, Chilean Chardonnay. Peach, ctirus
and wax aromas lead to a round palate with ample acidity. It tastes like apple, banana and other tropical fruits,
with sweetness and honey on the finish. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $11
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Montes 2010 Alpha Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). On the nose, there are cider,
oak and baked corn notes. The palate is full of oak and
resin flavors that prevent the fruit from emerging immediately. It tastes of hickory, apple and melon on the
palate and finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
86
oops 2011 Chardonnay (Central Valley).
Although it’s not very aromatic, the nose on this
wine is easygoing, with mild peach and apple aromas.
It feels fresh and medium bodied, with apple, peach
and melony flavors, the latter perhaps due to the blend’s
Casa Silva 2011 Reserva Chardonnay
(Colchagua Valley). This wine’s orange and
lemon aromas are crisp and fresh overall. And like all
standard Chilean Chardonnay, it’s plump and round.
The wine tastes of melon, honey and peach, and even
as it turns slender in flavor, the finish remains strong.
Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
85
Chilensis 2011 Reserva Chardonnay
(Maule Valley). Nectarine and orange aromas
create a clean bouquet. It’s round and mouth filling in
terms of weight, with pithy flavors of peach, honey and
apple. The flavors remain concise on the mildly creamy
finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Cono Sur 2011 Organically Grown
Grapes Chardonnay (San Antonio). Popcorn, sweet melon and pear aromas dominate the nose.
This feels pure and chunky, with honeyed melon, apple
and spiced peach flavors. Fruity, thick and tropical in
style, this is not too serious but not bad either. Vineyard
Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Montes 2011 Classic Series Chardonnay
(Curicó Valley). Except for some resiny oak,
this wine is limited on the nose. It feels fleshy but balanced by citric acid, while the flavors include melon,
pear and oak-driven spice. It’s not too fruity, exact or
minerally, but it will likely please fans of basic, casual
Chardonnay. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Santa Carolina 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). On the nose, tropical fruit aromas are cloaked in creamy, toasty oak. It
feels full and round, with flavors of sweet pear, banana
and a lot of resiny wood. The finish features walnut, vanilla and cream flavors. Carolina Wine Brands USA.
—M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $12
84
Lapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selection
Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Granular citrus aromas define the bouquet on this wine. It
feels soft, with just enough acidity to avoid flabbiness.
Banana and pithy citrus flavors set up a basic finish with
lasting bitterness. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
84
Lomas del Valle 2011 Coastal Cool Climate Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley).
Innocuous on the nose, with hints of mild oak and white
fruit, this feels zesty and lean, with citrus and melon
flavors. It’s mellow, sweet and easy. Loma Larga Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
Terrenal 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Curicó Valley). Very light and mildly citrusy in aroma, this has notes of tangerine, lemon and
WineMag.com | 41
air freshener. It feels basic but fresh, with tropical fruit
flavors that are tangy and mildly bitter. L. Watson, INC.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $5
but oily, with green melon, vanilla and peach flavors.
It fades to a mildly bitter note of green banana, with a
tropical overtone. Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
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William Cole 2011 Albamar Chardonnay
(Casablanca Valley). Pinched and sharp on
the nose, this has nettle and citrus aromas that are more
typical of Sauvignon Blanc than of Chardonnay. It feels
juicy and acidic, with passion fruit, grapefruit and lasting citrus flavors. It’s fresh and racy, but it’s varietally
confusing. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Matetic 2011 Corralillo Gewürztraminer
(San Antonio). This small-production wine
features light but potent aromas of lychee, orange, honey, wild flowers and spice. It’s fairly lean and elegant
on the palate, with exotic spice and tropical fruit flavors. Short and pithy on the finish but nice for Chilean
Gewürztraminer. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
RIESLING
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Matetic 2011 Corralillo Riesling (Casablanca Valley). This begins with the varietal’s
standard aromas of petrol, mineral and peach pit. It
feels tight and strapping, with minerality on the tongue
and a tight grip. Flavors emerge of waxy peach, citrus
and almond skin. Its finish is tangy, chiseled and long.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Price: $20
abv: 14%
86
Meli 2011 Riesling (Maule Valley). The
bouquet here is crisp, dry and minerally, with a
petrol scent. In the mouth, it feels snappy, cutting and
citrusy, with orange and peach flavors. This is fruity and
solid, with juicy acidity and a citrus-dominant character.
Made using grapes from old vines planted in the 1950s.
Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Cono Sur 2011 Riesling (Central Valley).
Petrol, motor oil and peach aromas, along with a
whiff of cheese, entice the nose. The wine feels chunky
and tastes of tarragon, thyme, grapefruit and green apple. Overall, it’s a basic wine, and it doesn’t improve on
the finish. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Casa Silva 2011 Late Harvest SemillónGewürztraminer (Colchagua Valley). This
is burnished gold in color, with strong aromas of honey, noble rot and exotic spice. It feels creamy and soft
but not prostrate, with orange, clove, citrus peel, honey
and nutmeg flavors. The finish turns more peppery but
remains honeyed. Gewürztraminer’s character is more
pronounced on this wine than Semillón’s. Vin Divino.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
88
Casa Silva 2011 Lolol Viognier (Colchagua Valley). The bouquet on this is dry, fresh
and lemony, with hints of sugar cookie and vanilla wafer.
It feels wide, plump and oily, with white fruit flavors of
peach and melon along with tropicality and mild bitterness. The finish is cleansing but still a little bitter. Vin
Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Casa Silva 2011 Reserva Viognier (Colchagua Valley). This smells tropical and citrusy, with hints of acacia and wild flower. It feels round
Arauco 2011 Reserva Pinot Grigio (Central Valley). Minerally and neutral on the nose,
this tastes fresh and crisp like a green apple, with dry
flavors of white fruit and bitter almond. It retains that
almond character on the finish, which turns even drier
and more bitter. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Cremaschi Furlotti 2010 Reserva Pinot
Grigio (Maule Valley). The nose introduces
aromas of vanilla wafer and vegetable. This wine feels
flabby and uncommitted, with bitter flavors of white
fruit, green banana and white pepper. It is neither interesting nor exciting. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
ROSÉ
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Miguel Torres 2011 Santa Digna Estelado Rosé (Central Valley). For full review see
page 11. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
SPARKLING WINES
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Miguel Torres NV Santa Digna Estelado
Rosé Sparkling Wine (Chile). Wheaty and
yeasty on the nose, this becomes clearer and more focused on the palate and finish. The mouthfeel is round
and solid, while the flavor profile folds in a maderized
tone, with cherry and raspberry notes and mild bitterness. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
86
Miguel Torres NV Cordillera Brut (Curicó
and Maipo Valleys). This brut made from Pinot Noir is sweet and simple on the nose, suggesting a
welcome note of applesauce. It’s a bit foamy and lacking
in texture, but the flavors of tangy apple, lime and lemon are nice. It finishes with a seltzer character. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
84
Undurraga NV Titillum Original (Leyda Valley). This heavy bubbly has aromas of
matchstick, burnt grass and apple. It feels jagged and
foamy, with mealy apple and hay flavors. The finish
is fresh and lively, but it turns bitter as it fades. Testa
Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
93
Miguel Torres 2008 Manso de Velasco Viñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó
Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
91
Gillmore 2008 Hacedor de Mundos Old
Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Loncomilla
Valley). Powerfully built and well balanced, this has
aromas of cherry, red currant, spice, dried cheese and
earth, giving way to flavors of red plum, wild berry,
buttery oak and vanilla. Drink now or cellar it through
2017. The Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
90
Lagar de Bezana 2008 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). This heady
Cabernet features aromas of baked fruit blended with
char. It feels rich and smooth, though maybe a touch
flat, with roasted, savory flavors of plum, berry, dried
spice and coffee. The finish is warm and maintains the
wine’s baked character. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
Price: $18
abv: 14%
90
Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley-Colchagua
Valley). A little meat and earth add depth to this wine’s
dominant cassis and berry aromas. It is bold, with black
fruit, chocolate and spice flavors. This is a familiar style
of wine made right. Testa Wines Of The World. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
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Chilcas 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This is round and
dark up front, with a touch of bacon on the nose. It feels
fresh and medium in power, with blackberry, plum and
chocolate flavors that roll into a peppery, spicy finish.
Vici Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
89
Errazuriz 2009 Viñedo Chadwick Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Initially this
smells reductive and like horseradish, although with airing it moves on to aromas of pepper and berry. Citrusy
acidity gives zest to what is otherwise a creamy-feeling
red. Flavors of cassis, berry and brown sugar lead to a
long, baked-tasting finish. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $280
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Veramonte 2010 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This has a raspberry aromas that is sweetened by a graham cracker
note and deepened by a leather accent. It feels round,
well balanced and lively, with berry, cassis, chocoalate
and spice flavors. The finish is solid, echoing the palate’s
flavors and feel. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Viu Manent 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Rios de Chile 2008 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). The
nose is lemony, warm and floral. It feels full, solid and
sturdy on the palate, with tobacco, baked cherry, plum
and herb flavors. The finish remains herbal, with coffee
and chocolate notes. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
and edgy, with flavors of tobacco, wood, pepper and
earthy red fruit. It’s spicy, drying, warm and fairly long
on the finish. Viña Echeverria. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
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Viña Chocalan 2010 Selección Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Dense and
meaty up front, this has cola, wild berry and herb aromas. It feels big and bursts with spicy berry and pepper
flavors. It finishes dark, with coffee-like bitterness, and
it’s nicely balanced overall. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
Apaltagua 2010 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This wine’s crusty,
minerally aromas of black fruit are lightly toasted and
earthy. On the palate, it feels tannic and high in acidity, with roasted, earthy flavors of plum and raspberry.
Concentrated and grabby on the finish, it has a touch of
lemony oak and astringency. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
Price: $40
abv: 14%
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Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)
2010 Los Vascos Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This smells
basic and clean, with black fruit aromas of cherry and
plum. It feels rugged, grabby and tannic, with a dark,
chocolaty flavor of baked berry leading to a toasty
and spicy finish that delivers strong tannin. It reflects
the cool conditions of 2010. Pasternak Wine Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Lagar de Bezana 2010 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Although
this wine has the darkness, density and body of a higherlevel wine, it smells baked and balsamic, with an earthy
flatness to the nose. It feels tannic and grabby, with
roasted berry, hickory and savory barbecue flavors. The
finish is woody and dry. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Laroche 2010 Punto Niño Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This
wine’s black cherry and spice aromas are clean and inviting. Despite angular acidity, it feels fresh, while the
palate deals a mix of dark fruit, spice, herb and chocolate flavors. The finish is herbal and slightly briny. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
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Maquis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This is big and dark on the
nose, but also kind of generic. It feels round, flush and
tannic, with blackberry, chocolate and a mild bitterness to the palate. The wine finishes big and chewy, but
there’s a persistent, controlled bitterness to the flavor
profile. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
Quasar 2009 Gran Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Brick dust, dry
earth, berry and spice aromas comprise the mild, moderately complex bouquet. On the palate, it feels lively
Vistamar 2010 Sepia Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). The bouquet is
dense, smoky and rubbery, with powerful meat and berry notes. It shows vitality as well as mild choppiness on
the palate, with tobacco, lemon, balsamic vinegar and
black fruit flavors. Mildly herbal, it is somewhat creamy
and good overall on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). The nose is vibrant and a bit feral, with aromas of red plum, cherry, red currant and herb. It feels lively, with raspberry,
cherry and herbal plum flavors. The finish is juicy. Vin
Divino. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 14%
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Miguel Torres 2010 Santa Digna Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley).
Rubbery smelling at first, this soon settles on medicinal
berry and cassis aromas. It feels pretty tight and tannic
but not overwhelmingly so, with baked, dark flavors of
black fruit, hard spice and herb. It feels and finishes a
bit warm. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Floria 2010 Semi Sweet Cabernet Sauvignon (Molina). Made in a semisweet style,
this smells almost dry, with notes of cheese and vanilla. On the palate, it’s simple, where the sugary flavors
quickly emerge before fading away to almost nothing.
Arcadia Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Cuevas del Sur 2010 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Meaty and rubbery smelling, this has a wide and dilute mouthfeel. It
tastes stalky and a little burnt, with red fruit flavors on
the fringe. The finish is herbal, with some heat. Carbe
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
CABERNET FRANC
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Calcu 2010 Cabernet Franc (Colchagua
Valley). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
90
Peñalolen 2009 Cabernet Franc (Casablanca Valley). This cool-climate rendition of
Cabernet Franc has intense aromatics of olive, peppery
spice, leather, herbal plum and berry. It shows power
and a nice mouthfeel, with a medicinal black-fruit flavor
and a strong herbal backbone. The finish is moderately
oaky and resiny. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
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MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Cherry and plum
aromas dominate the rather basic bouquet of this wine,
which has a saucy, barbecued element to it. It shows
tannic grip along with flavors of savory berry and barbeque sauce. The finish tastes spicy and roasted, with
grip and push. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
Casas del Toqui 2010 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). This smells
pinched and citrusy. The palate is tight and rubbery in
feel, with minty berry and black plum flavors. Licorice,
oak character and warmth push the finish. Buena Cepa
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
De Martino 2010 Legado Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This opens
with mildly leafy, murky aromas of iodine and latex,
with hints of black fruit. The palate feels a bit choppy
and hollow, with an herbal mix of tomato and red plum
flavors. It’s solid, but herbal and scratchy feeling as a
whole. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
85
Montes 2010 Classic Series Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This starts
out with murky, leathery aromas that veer toward latex and rubber. It has tannic grip and decent structure.
The wine tastes of roasted berry fruit and saucy plum,
followed by a baked-tasting finish. T.G.I.C. Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Odfjell 2007 Orzada Cabernet Franc
(Maule Valley). Medicinal, mildly herbal aromas revolve around red and black fruit scents, with a
candied accent and a root-like dryness. This is a mature wine with screeching acidity that pushes raspberry,
plum, briary spice and oak flavors. The finish tastes peppery and feels dry. Select Fine Wine. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Maule Valley). This has balsamic aromas of roasted black fruit, autumn leaf, coconut and
oak. It feels big, fruity and a bit raw, with black cherry,
dark plum and cassis flavors. The finish is dark, spicy
and chocolaty. This is totally New World in style, aroma
and flavor. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
Price: $18
abv: 13.5%
Lomas del Valle 2010 Coastal Cool Climate Cabernet Franc (Casablanca Valley). This opens with classically Chilean aromas of bell
pepper, olive and berry. It feels firm and tightly wound,
with plum and herb flavors. Despite its herbal quality and its peppery, briary finish, the wine nevertheless manages not to taste green. Loma Larga Vineyards.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
87
Echeverria 2010 Reserva Cabernet Franc
(Curicó Valley). The bouquet is briary, with
aromas of clipped berry and herb. It feels sassy, edgy
and tannic, with herbal flavors of raspberry and red currant. The finish is a little choppy and tannic, with a subtle green-flavored accent. Viña Echeverria. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
WineMag.com | 43
CARMENÈRE
91
Errazuriz 2009 Kai Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). Mild, earthy and composed
on the nose, this has rich berry and cassis aromas and
not too much herbal essence. It feels voluminous and
chewy, with medicinal black fruit, spice cake and nutmeg flavors, followed by a deep, almost-syrupy finish.
Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $155
91
Lapostolle 2010 Cuvée Alexandre Apalta
Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley).
Opaque in color and superrich on the nose, it has dominant aromas of earth, leather, baked fruit and spice. It
feels lush and chunky, maybe a touch soft, with earthy,
naturally herbal flavors of dark fruit, plum and chocolate. The finish is smooth and warming. Terlato Wines
International. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
91
San Pedro 2008 Tierras Moradas Carmenère (Maule Valley). This is a complex Carmenère, with notes of graphite, mulberry, barrel-driven
char and coconut. The round, chewy, deep palate offers notes of toast, chocolate, coconut and roasted black
fruit. Drink this rich, mature, generous offering now.
Contains 7% Petit Verdot. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
roasted and syrupy qualities. The finish is thick, sweet
and dense. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
89
Veramonte 2010 Primus Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This smells ripe, mossy and
chocolaty, with aromas of herb and briary berry. It features a mild acidic beam in the center of the palate, and
tastes earthy, meaty and lightly herbal, but also offers
notes of plum and berry. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Undurraga 2010 Sibaris Reserva Especial Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This
wine’s bouquet is peppery, meaty, spicy and altogether
honest. The palate feels frisky and juicy, not heavy or
flat, then tastes of char, black coffee, cola and spiced,
herb-tinged berry. The finish is long, toasty and snappy.
Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
87
Casa Silva 2007 Microterroir de Los
Lingues Carmenère (Colchagua Valley).
This is a funky, pushy type of wine, with prickly aromas of green herb and berry. For a 2007, it is big and
a bit rough, with an herbal, green-leaning berry flavor
distinctive of this producer and its Los Lingues Vineyard. It finishes with additional herbal kick and heat. Vin
Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
86
Oveja Negra 2010 Single Vineyard Carmenère (Maule Valley). Raspberry and plum
aromas carry hints of lemon and flower. It tastes solid,
with flavors of herb, meaty berry, plum and lemony oak.
There’s a spiciness, with spiky acidity on the finish that
feels forced. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
86
Santa Alicia 2011 Reserva Carmenère
(Maipo Valley). This wine carries aromas of
blackberry and olive. Its dominant flavor of berry with
an herbal-rhubarb twist is solid. The finish lifts, with a
hint of tomato. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
85
Calcu 2010 Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This features plum, berry and
leather aromas that are accented by a hint of lemon.
It feels narrow and drawing, with black fruit, herb and
carob flavors. The finish, which doesn’t taste green or
herbal, is better and wider. Global Vineyard Importers.
—M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
85
San Pedro 2010 Castillo de Molina
Reserva Carmenère (Maule Valley). Notes
of hickory smoke and clove open this heavy wine. Its
flavors of wild berry and spice are a bit warm, while the
finish simmers with firm tannins and minty oak. ShawRoss International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
90
87
85
90
87
84
86
84
Undurraga 2009 Founder’s Selection
Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Initial
blackberry aromas are met with notes of olive, herb and
violet petal. It feels tight, pure and not overdone, with
baked berry, coffee and chocolate flavors. The finish
is chocolaty and smooth, with some complexity. Testa
Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Viu Manent 2008 El Incidente Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). This ripe Carmenère
has attractive coconut, blueberry and marzipan aromas. Meaty and showing good grip on the palate, the
wine features herb and spice flavors resting heavily atop
notes of black fruit and clove. It’s spicy and quite long
on the finish, with coffee, pepper and herb notes. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Miguel Torres 2008 Cordillera Special
Reserve Carmenère (Curicó Valley). This
smells scratchy and woodsy, with aromas of leather and
piquant spices. It feels dense and layered, with ample body weight and loud flavors of herbal black fruit
and wood spice. Like Carmenère often does, it finishes toasted, peppery and herbal. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
89
Montes 2009 Purple Angel Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). Gritty, charred and
herbal on the nose, this has aromas of earthy black fruit
and ground coffee. It feels wide and full bodied, bearing flavors of savory spice, tobacco and cinnamon, with
Casas del Toqui 2009 Reserva Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). The light red-fruit
aromas on this wine are accompanied by a controlled
herbal component. It feels crisp and fresh, tasting of
roasted berry, baking spice and sweet chocolate. It’s
long and full on the finish. Buena Cepa Wines. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
De Martino 2010 Legado Reserva Carmenère (Maipo Valley). This shows the varietal’s
spicy, earthy aromas in a fresh way. The mouthfeel is
crisp, while herbal, peppery flavors blend properly with
the spice and plum notes typical of Carmenère. The finish is brambly and drifts toward spunky red fruit. Opici
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Apaltagua 2010 Envero Gran Reserva
Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Traditional Carmenère aromas of olive, greenish plum and
berry are on full display here. It feels a bit acidic, with
scratchy and herbal flavors of spiced plum and red berry. The finish is persistent but also abrasive and aggressive. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
86
Montes 2009 Limited Selection - Apalta
Vineyard Carmenère (Colchagua Valley).
There’s no denying this wine’s green character, which
blends with aromas of hay, red berry and scratchiness.
On the palate, it feels a bit syrupy, countered by acidity. It tastes savory, with sweet, chocolaty and barbecued
flavors. It turns oakier on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Viña La Rosa 2011 La Palma Carmenère
(Cachapoal Valley). Briary spice and wild
berry aromas set up a palate with a core of raspberry
flavor mixed with a mild dose of greenness. The finish
is clean and standard—fruity and not bashful. Viña La
Rosa USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
De Martino 2010 347 Vineyards Carmenère (Central Valley). This smells dry and
leafy, with a bacon note. It feels lively and edgy, with
berry, currant and oak spice in its flavor profile. It finishes fairly tannic and warm, with a rubbery strength.
Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Quasar 2008 Selection Carmenère (Molina). This is an honest wine, with an herbal aroma and notes of tomato and red plum. It feels zingy due
to tomato-like acidity, with red fruit flavors followed by
a lean finish. Arcadia Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
83
Root:1 2010 Carmenère (Colchagua
Valley). The leather and earthy plum aromas
in this wine come with a strong, stalky component. It
tastes big and syrupy, with the roasted flavors that the
nose anticipates. The finish is baked tasting, with a gritty
feel and a mild green accent. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Quasar 2010 Gran Reserva Carmenère
(Curicó Valley). This is earthy and gritty on
the nose, with fallow red-fruit aromas. It feels astrin-
80
MALBEC
Arauco 2011 Merlot (Central Valley). An
herbal cherry aroma comes with notes of leather and mulchy earth. It feels and tastes dried out, with
tart, grating acidity and medicinal, herbal flavors on the
finish. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
92
Viu Manent 2009 Viu 1 Malbec (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
SYRAH/SHIRAZ
91
Lagar de Bezana 2008 Single Vineyard
Limited Edition Syrah (Alto Cachapoal).
For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
gent and tangy, then tastes of salt, tomato and plum.
The wine falls off on the finish. Viña Echeverria. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Polkura 2009 Malbec (Colchagua Valley).
Winemaker Sven Bruchfeld has stepped up his
Malbec game with this wine. The nose is jammy and
full of cassis, blackberry, leather and a whiff of fine aged
cheese. It feels lush and dense, with powerful, driving
flavors of blackberry, dark plum, spice and herb. It’s big
but not punishing on the slightly minty finish. Drink
now–2015. Wine Markets International, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
91
Viu Manent 2009 San Carlos Single Vineyard Malbec (Colchagua Valley). For full
review see page 10. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Odfjell 2007 Malbec (Lontué Valley). This
is concentrated and oaky on the nose, with hickory smoke, toast and rubber notes, along with a blackberry aroma. It feels linear and structured due to the
core acidity, while the flavor profile entails staunch,
slightly salty cassis, berry and plum flavors. It’s not superfruity on the finish, but vanilla and coconut flavors
surface. Select Fine Wine. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
MERLOT
84
Rios de Chile 2011 Reserva Merlot
(Cachapoal Valley). Dry berry aromas feature a minty, spicy side. The palate feels drying, with
a raspberry flavor and a green herb note. It’s mediumbodied, with a hint of plum in addition to resiny wood
and green flavors on the finish. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
Casas del Toqui 2011 Merlot (Central Valley). This is raspy and rough on the nose, with
heavy mint, green herb, latex and bell pepper aromas.
It feels fairly full, with herb and peppery berry flavors,
leading to a green, minty, scratchy finish. Buena Cepa
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Chilensis 2011 Reserva Merlot (Maule
Valley). Pinched cherry and berry aromas are
lean and leathery. It feels tight and scouring, with oaky,
green flavors of berry and cherry. It tastes dried out and
herbal on the finish. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Reserve Merlot (Curicó Valley). Earthy, leathery aromas are hot and end up smelling like a field in
summertime. It feels hard on the palate, with a buttery oak note that sets up flavors of plum and raspberry
mixed with green herb. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
93
91
Polkura 2008 Block G + I Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Strong berry aromas come with
ample leather, earth and tobacco accents. The palate is
tough and tight, but loaded with powerful, earthy flavors of black fruit, mineral and a can’t-miss briny, salty
element. It’s aggressive, savory and potent on the finish.
This needs food or a couple of years more aging. Wine
Markets International, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $50
abv: 14.8%
89
Reserve Syrah (Maule Valley). This smells
jammy and full, with leather, baked black-fruit and balsamic aromas. Saturated, deep and honest on the palate, with a flower note interspersed with blackberry and
spice flavors. It falls off a bit on the finish, but on the
plus side it’s not pounding or aggressive. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
88
San Pedro 2009 Kankana del Elqui Syrah
(Elqui Valley). A unique wine with a proprietary Elqui imprint, this smells balsamic-y and tomatoey,
with a rooty, earthy undercurrent. It feels grabby and
full bodied, with tomato, boysenberry and green tobacco flavors. It holds onto that ashy tobacco character on
the full-force finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
87
Matetic 2010 EQ Syrah (San Antonio).
Like the winery’s 2010 Corralillo Syrah, this
comes across funky, more herbal and pointed than in
prior years. The body is full but hard, with roasted berry,
spice and herb flavors. It feels forced and a bit warm,
with a salty note and juicy, almost sharp acids. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Price: $43
abv: 14%
87
San Pedro 2009 1865 Limited Edition
Syrah (Elqui Valley). This seems a bit fiery
on the nose, with tomato, exotic berry, herb, coffee and
earth aromas. It feels raw and tannic but serious, with
zesty, herbal flavors of briary berry and oak. The herbal
Elqui character appears on the the finish. Shaw-Ross
International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
86
Casa Silva 2010 Reserva Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Scattered, candied-fruit aromas
are in your face and aggressive. It feels flush but not fully concentrated, with herb-tinged flavors of black fruit,
spice, olive and licorice. This finishes quick, with juicy
acidity. Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
85
Matetic 2010 Corralillo Syrah (San Antonio). From the earthquake-plagued harvest,
which was also very cool by Chilean standards, this has
notes of iodine, candied berry, and bramble. The feel
is pointed and snappy, with earthy, funky red-berry
flavors. It’s zesty on the finish. Quintessential Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
84
Santa Alicia 2010 Edición Limitada Gran
Reserva de Los Andes Shiraz (Casablanca Valley). Here’s another 2010 Chilean Syrah
that seems affected by that vintage’s cool conditions.
It shows notes of burnt grass and rubber, with a mildly
weedy note. The palate is tight and acidic, with mint,
olive and herb-tinged fruit flavors. Halby Marketing.
—M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
81
San Pedro 2010 Castillo de Molina
Reserva Shiraz (Maule Valley). This smells
murky and soupy, with a palate that feels angular and
high in acidity. It tastes mulchy and tart, delivering a
barbecue note on the finish. Shaw-Ross International
Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
CARIGNAN
91
Gillmore 2008 Hacedor de Mundos Old
Vine Carignan (Loncomilla Valley). Aromas of wild berries and milk chocolate are balanced
and deep. It feels solid, full and fresh, with plum, berry,
herb and oak-based flavors that continue onto the finish.
For something different, this is one powerful, well-built
wine. Drink now–2015. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
91
Santa Ema 2008 Amplus Old Vine Carignan (Peumo). Impressive and generous, this
gets going with full berry and chocolaty oak aromas. The
well-structured palate bears lightly herb-tinged flavors
of berry and chocolate. It finishes dry, peppery and sturdy as a cinder block. Drink now–2015. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
90
Reserve Carignan (Maule Valley). This
opens with a rewarding wave of berry, milk chocolate
and creamy oak aromas. The mouthfeel is concentrated
and intense, with juicy, fresh flavors of wild berry and
plum. The finish is spicy, fairly oaky and seriously crafted. Drink now–2015. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
89
De Martino 2009 El León Single Vineyard
Carignan (Maule Valley). This is dark, rubbery and wild on the nose, with a heavy dose of chocolaty oak. It feels crisp due to its high acidity, but also
feels raring to go. The flavors of blackberry and plum
are snappy and dry, while the finish is driven by the
WineMag.com | 45
acidity. It will age well; drink now–2016. Opici Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
87
Morandé 2008 Edición Limitada Carignan (Loncomilla Valley). Edgy plum and
berry aromas come with an herb accent, a spice note
and a flower element. It comes across high in acidity,
with shearing plum and cherry flavors that end with a
feeling of citric acid. It’s crisp and intense, but also tight
as nails. Morande USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
RED BLENDS
93
Lapostolle 2009 Clos Apalta (Colchagua
Valley). Typically intense, polished and smooth
up front, this has concentrated aromas of graphite, cola,
wild berry, spice, coconut and wood. It feels full and
makes a statement on the palate, where baked, earthy,
fully loaded flavors of clove, herb and black fruit hold
court. Oaky and spicy on the finish, this needs another
2–4 years to fully settle. Terlato Wines International.
Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $90
abv: 15%
91
Estampa 2008 Gold Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua Valley). The bouquet smells warm, earthy, leathery and
chock full of dark berry aromas. It’s a voluminous wine
with tannic grip but no overt bite. The flavor profile is
concentrated and amped up, with cassis, blackberry and
molasses flavors that culminate with notes of coconut
and buttery oak on the finish. Drink now–2015. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
91
Lapostolle 2010 Canto de Apalta (Rapel
Valley). This is a new wine from Lapostolle,
bearing a nose that’s intense and compact, with mineral
and dark fruit aromas. It feels rich and muscular but
not heavy, with berry, licorice, buttery oak and vanilla
flavors. The finish is minty and chocolaty tasting. Carmenère, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah make
up the blend. Terlato Wines International. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
91
Viña Requingua 2009 Potro de Piedra
Family Reserve Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). For full review see
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Lagar de Bezana 2008 Aluvion Gran
Reserva (Cachapoal Valley). This is complex on the nose due to a mix of cowhide, charcoal,
prune, cassis and spice aromas. It feels dense and thick
on the palate, with olive, baked berry and spice flavors. The finish is peppery and a touch herbal, long and
strong. This is a blend of 65% Syrah and 35% Cabernet
Sauvignon. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
90
O. Fournier 2008 Red Blend (Maule Valley). Like most O. Fournier signature reds,
this is dark, extracted and modern in style. The bou46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | DECEMBER 2012
quet is full of rubber, marzipan, exotic spice and lemon-like aromas. It shows a rawness on the palate along
with toasty dark-berry and lemon flavors. The finish is
oaky, with tangy acids and a spot of heat. This is a blend
of 80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and
10% Carignan. Drink now–2015. Fine Estates From
Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
90
San Pedro 2008 Cabo de Hornos Special Reserve (Curicó Valley). Tight and intense off the bat, but airing reveals tobacco, herb and
spice notes along with earthy berry and plum aromas.
It feels staunch and grabby, with medium-strength tannins and crusty, baked flavors of berry, black plum, mint
and chocolate. Warm and rooty on the finish; drink now
–2016. This is a blend of 80% Cabernet with 15% Syrah and 5% Malbec. Shaw-Ross International Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Estampa 2009 Reserve Assemblage Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Colchagua Valley). Bold berry aromas form a nice greeting, accompanied by the scent of milk chocolate. It
feels tight and tannic but healthy as an ox, with peppery dark-berry flavors that come with a lemony edge.
Fresh and short on the finish. American Estates Wines,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
89
Undurraga 2010 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Rapel Valley). This
is herbal and a touch smoky on the nose, with plum and
berry components. It feels lifted but full bodied, with
ripe, creamy flavors of dark fruit and integrated oakbased spice. It shows a sweet, balsamic, root-like quality on the finish. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
88
MontGras 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Colchagua Valley). For full
review see page 13 Best Buy.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
87
Oveja Negra 2011 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon-Syrah (Maule Valley). Basic,
clean and spicy up front, this has berry and cherry aromas. It feels lively, with acidic punch and fresh flavors
of wild berry, plum and vanilla. It more or less tastes
the same on the finish, which has a wiry feel but otherwise comes across solid. Vici Wine and Spirits. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
San Pedro 2009 1865 Limited Edition
Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Cachapoal
Valley). This is a very full, meaty, saturated blend, with
a lightly stewed nose that carries aromas of tomato, bacon, mint and brambly berry. It feels grabby and punchy
due to strong tannins, then tastes of medicinal black
fruit, herb and coconut-tinged oak. Spicy and hard on
the finish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
87
Viña La Rosa 2009 La Capitana Barrel Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot
(Cachapoal Valley). This has green-leaning aromas
of tobacco, tomato and grass that are matched by more
standard plum and berry notes. It feels tight, tannic and
rubbery, with medicinal flavors of herbal black fruits
and mint. Solid as a whole, this holds its pose on the
finish, although even there it’s a touch green. This is
a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot.
Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
86
De Martino 2008 Las Cruces Single Vineyard Old Bush Vines (Cachapoal Valley).
After a leathery start, aromas of plum, berry and spice
enter the picture. It feels clampy with an aggressive tannic bite. The flavors are more briny and herbal than ideal, with a leather hint in addition to plum and wild berry
notes. It’s hard and minty tasting on the finish. Opici
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
MontGras 2010 Quatro (Colchagua Valley). Scratchy and herbal on the nose, this has
dry raspberry aromas. It feels fresh, raw and racy, with
cherry, red currant, rhubarb and an herb component to
the flavor profile. It’s vital but edgy feeling on the finish.
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
84
Chono 2010 Reserva Carmenère-Syrah
(Elqui Valley). This starts out stalky and sharp
smelling, although airing brings about more round,
herbal notes that are common for wines from the Elqui
region. It feels grabby and sticky, with minty, green, almost weedy flavors that blend into dark berry and chocolate notes. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
oops 2011 Red (Central Valley). Crusty on
the nose, this has an asphalt note that transitions
into hard spice and sour berry notes. It has flavors of
creamy, minty oak and medicinal berry fruit. A lasting
flavor of oak-driven spice and a hint of green carry some
heat. Schwartz Olcott Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
OTHER RED WINES
87
Carmen 2009 Gran Reserva Maipo Alto
Petite Sirah (Maipo Valley). This smells a
bit green, with aromas of herb, juniper, cola and earthy
black fruit. It feels tannic, with an herbal core. A minty,
briary flavor of herb-scented blackberry leads to the
firm, tight finish. Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
83
Chilcas 2010 Single Vineyard País
(Maule Valley). The nose bears lightly green
aromas of stalky cherry and raspberry. It feels grabby on
the palate, with peppery, dry flavors that come up short
in terms of fruit content. The finish is spicy, rustic and
unwavering. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAY
96
Cave Fermented Unfiltered Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 3. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $115
95
Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $95
94
Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Selection Chardonnay (Edna Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $40
93
Foxen 2011 Block UU Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley).
Foxen’s UU Block from the famed Bien Nacido Vinbeard fights it out every year with the estate Tinaquaic
Chardonnay for top honors. In this cool vintage, the former wins out by a hair. Dry, steely and crisp in acidity,
it shows vast tropical fruit, orange, vanilla, honey and
buttered toast flavors that are delicious and refined. The
richness and elegance strongly suggest pairing it with
lobster. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 13.8%
93
Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $58
93
Knights Bridge 2010 West Block Chardonnay (Knights Valley). For full review see
page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
93
Mount Eden 2009 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a
hard, minerally edge to this Chardonnay, like the tang
of cold metal, an impression that’s heightened by its citrusy acids. The flavor veers toward Meyer lemon, while
toasted oak brings needed vanilla and honey richness.
It’s controlled and tight, compared to more opulent bottlings, but it’s also elegant and complex. Mount Eden’s
Chardonnays have a history of aging, and this fine one
will go for 10 years or so, gradually losing fruit. —S.H.
Price: $55
abv: 13.5%
92
Flowers 2010 Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). The acidity in this Chardonnay stars, giving it
a mouthwatering tanginess. There’s a solid core of apricot, lime and tropical fruit flavors that give needed richness. A mineral note adds bracing grip. The dryness is
just fine, keeping the wine worthy of repeated sipping.
Overall, this is a food friendly wine; drink now–2016.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
92
Foxen 2011 Tinaquaic Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Acidity and
minerality lend this Chardonnay a distinctive personality. The cool vintage has given it a certain lean appeal,
but that’s not to minimize the tropical fruit and sweet
oak that give it richness. It’s sleek, stylish and moderate
in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $37
92
Pine Ridge 2010 Le Petit Clos Chardonnay (Stags Leap District). Very rich and dramatic—the grapes used for this wine were grown in a
tiny, cool block of the estate in this corner of Cabernet
country. It’s full but balanced, with crisp acidity, tangy
minerality and lots of ripe tropical-fruit flavors. This did
not undergo malolactic fermentation. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
91
Etude 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay
(Carneros). A strong, distinguished Chardonnay, this is rich and concentrated, yet elegantly
dry. There are plenty of tropical fruit and citrus flavors,
but the fruit is balanced with mineral and herb notes,
grounding it and letting this wine be a companion to
food. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 14.2%
91
Krutz 2011 Ceja Vineyard Magnolia Series Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). For full
abv: 13%
Price: $22
91
Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Chardonnay
(Los Carneros). For full review see page 9.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
90
Flowers 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Rich and oaky, this has apricot, orange,
vanilla and buttered toast flavors, with crisp acidity providing balance. It takes the popular Chardonnay style to
an upper level in terms of the balance and the fanciness
of oak. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $40
90
Foxen 2011 Steel Cut Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley).
The underlying fruit on this unoaked Chardonnay
doesn’t need the richness of barrels in order to satisfy.
Its flavors are enormously rich and ripe, with notes of
tropical fruits, oranges, vanilla and spices. Interestingly, it’s also much higher in alcohol than Foxen’s oaked
Chardonnays, giving it an almost dessert wine headiness. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $32
90
MacRostie 2009 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
90
Sequoia Grove 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
88
Martin Ray 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Pont de Chevalier 2010 Chardonnay
(Knights Valley). This takes ripe fruit and oak
influence to the limits, with powerful flavors of buttered
toast, pineapple, orange jam and vanilla-cream. This defines the flashy style of California Chardonnay, with a
honeyed finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
87
Line 39 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
87
Lyeth 2011 L de Lyeth Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Rich and delicious, this has
flavors of pineapple tart, lemon meringue pie, buttered
toast and smoky butterscotch that are balanced by fine
acidity and dry, firm minerality. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
87
Mirassou 2011 Chardonnay (California).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
Mount Eden 2010 Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A well-balanced
Chardonnay, this has flavors of tropical fruit, apricot
and lemon candy, brightened by that famous Edna Valley acidity. This would make for a great apéritif. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
87
Patz & Hall 2010 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is very rich,
with flashy oak that gives it a powerful buttered-toast
flavor. Underneath the oak are notes of mango, lime and
green apple, brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $42
87
Sextant 2010 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). This is dry and crisp in mouthwatering
acidity, and the tropical fruit flavors have a minerality
that makes it savory. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Shannon Ridge 2011 High Elevation Collection Chardonnay (Lake County). For
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
87
Vigilance 2011 Chardonnay (Red Hills
Lake County). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
86
Dillon 2009 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay (Yountville). With flavors of buttered
toast, vanilla, sweet mango and orange jam flavors, this
is as rich, ripe and oaky as they come. Finishing with a
honeyed accent, it’s made to appeal to consumer’s who
enjoy the popular style. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $23
86
Dillon 2009 Stainless Steel Fermented
Chardonnay (Yountville). This brims with
ripe, forward flavors of pineapples, golden mangos,
honey and spicy pears, with vanilla and buttered toast
notes despite being unoaked. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $23
WineMag.com | 47
86
Domaine Eden 2009 Chardonnay (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Rich, if a little one-dimensional, this has flavors of creamy orange, yellow apricot,
vanilla and buttered toast. It will appeal to fans of the
forward style of Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
85
86
Dante 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (California). This tastes like it could be anything
from Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc to Grenache
Blanc, but it’s rich in honey, orange and buttered toastflavors. It’s seems a little sweet, but it has a good cut of
acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
Pine Ridge 2010 Dijon Clones Chardonnay (Carneros). The underlying wine here is
fine, crisp and minerally, with green apple fruit. Lots of
new oak, however, sticks out, in the form of buttered
toast and butterscotch. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
86
Seven Heavenly Chards 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). The white sister to the wine Seven Deadly Zins, this is lusciously sinful in its own right,
tasting of oak, vanilla and marshmallow and even movie
theater popcorn. Creamy, this finishes with a swath of
ripe green apple. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
86
Sierra Madre 2010 Block 210 Estate
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Strong
in oak and ripe fruit, this tastes overworked. It’s dominated by buttered toast, butterscotch and pineapple jam
flavors. It will satisfy legions of Chardonnay lovers who
like this popular style. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
86
Sobriquet Winery 2010 Chardonnay
(Santa Maria Valley). Strong and oaky but
not particularly subtle or complex. It’s impressive for its
sheer power, offering blasts of buttered toast, butterscotch, pineapple and orange jam and vanilla, wrapped
up in a creamy texture. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
86
Trione 2009 River Road Ranch Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lots of dominating new French oak shows up in the form of smoky,
vanilla-rich buttered-toast aromas and flavors. Under
the oak are forward notes of pineapple jam, green apple
butter and spice flavors. A little obvious in its appeal,
but it will satisfy lots of Chardonnay lovers. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
85
Buena Vista 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). Made in the popular style, this has
buttered popcorn, pineapple jam, lemon meringue pie
and smoky vanilla flavors. It seems a little sweet, but
brisk in acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Butternut 2011 Chardonnay (California).
Lots of decadent, butterscotch-like oakiness
marks this Chardonnay. It’s also rich in peach jam and
apple butter flavors. Crisp acidity gives the needed balance to all of the richness. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $17
85
Clos du Val 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). Dry and soft, this is a little earthy, so if
you’re expecting a big, rich wine this might not be for
you. It has dried herb, grilled pineapple and smoky oak
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Counter Punch 2009 Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Not particularly Chardonnay-like,
this tastes more like a Sauvignon Blanc, with flavors of
citrus, lemongrass, vanilla and honey. It seems a little
sweet on the finish, but nicely tart. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $38
85
85
Educated Guess 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). With its dryness and elegance, this is a
good Chardonnay for everyday drinking. The citrus and
peach flavors are counterbalanced by an herbal earthiness, like a note of dried sage. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $17
85
Gallo Signature Series 2010 Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). This is too oaky, but
it’s dry and crisp in acidity, with interesting citrus, tropical fruit and pear flavors. The heavy application of oak
results in buttered toast and caramel accents. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
85
Gen5 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). A tropically oriented Chardonnay, this has aromatic hints
of corn nuts and apricot fuzz, finishing with a taste of
sour lemon. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
85
Joseph Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). Oak sticks out on this wine, with a
buttered-toast note dominating the modest underlying
fruit. There’s also an herbal quality, which is sometimes
found in Napa Valley Chardonnays. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
85
Lincourt 2011 Steel Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). This is dry, crisp in acidity and
clean, with citrus and tropical fruit flavors. With no oak,
the fruit stars. There’s a touch of apricot that gives it an
eccentric taste. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13.9%
85
Rutherford Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). Buttered toast, buttered popcorn, orange marmalade and lemon zest flavors characterize
this lush, creamy Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
85
Rutherford Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). This is all about buttered toast, buttered
popcorn and orange- and pineapple-soda flavors. Fans
of the popular style will love it. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
84
Silver Ridge 2010 Chardonnay (California). This is pretty slender, but it gets the Chardonnay job done with its flavors of buttered toast, cream
and peach. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
83
Guenoc 2011 Chardonnay (Lake County). This Chardonnay telegraphs barrel, barrel and more barrel. To its credit is its creamy texture.
—V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $14
82
F.J. Serra 2011 Chardonnay (California).
This tastes seemingly sweet, like a candy bar
of honey, orange extract, vanilla and roasted almonds.
—S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
82
Goyette 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). Seemingly sweet and simple, this has
buttery flavors of pineapple jam, white sugar and toast.
A brisk cut of acidity provides a semblance of balance.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
82
Vaquero 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). This feels thin and common, with
notes of tangerine and buttered toast. It’s a wine to
drink at parties and such. —S.H.
Price: $16
abv: 13.5%
81
Thomas Scott 2010 Grand Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Lots of toasty
oak can’t hide the fact that the underlying wine has a
strong vegetal note, with some apricot and pineapple
flavors. Tasted twice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
SAUVIGNON BLANC
90
Kelleher 2011 Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 10.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
89
Coquelicot 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa
Ynez Valley). This proves how well Sauvignon
Blanc can ripen in this warmish, inland Santa Barbara
valley. Backed up with crisp acidity, this has a firm, minerally moutheel that conveys refreshing Meyer lemon,
lemongrass, guava and honey flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
89
Oberon 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Tasty, zesty and rich, this would be a versatile accompaniment to a wide range of foods. It charms
with its flavors of Asian pear, lime, fig, vanilla and spice,
bearing vigorous acidity that balances out what seems to
be some sweetness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
88
1070 Green 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Flavors of green hay, tart juniper berry
and gooseberry surface in this Sauvignon Blanc, in addition to richer notes of Meyer lemon and vanilla. It’s dry
and elegantly complex, with a honeyed richness. This
shows the versatility to pair across a huge range of cuisines. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
88
Benziger 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (North
Coast). Fresh, clean and bright, this is resplendent with lemon and lime tones, with a grassy touch
that’s similar to the New Zealand style. Well-made and
refreshing, this has a pure green-apple-flavored finish.
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
88
Bernardus 2011 Griva Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Arroyo Seco). Griva Vineyard
is supersensitive to the slightest vintage variation. The
chilly 2011 harvest has given just enough sweet tropicalfruit flavor to balance out the tart gooseberry note. It’s
still a slightly green wine, but a good one, and it will pair
well with goat cheese. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $22
88
Buena Vista 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). This is dry, tart in acidity and
stimulating in lemongrass and pear flavors. It has a
touch of New Zealand-style gooseberry, demonstrating
a green-peppercorn-like grassiness. Try pairing it with
a goat cheese and thyme omelet for weekend brunch.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
87
Foxen 2011 7200 Vogelzang Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This savory young wine has forward flavors of pineapples, Meyer lemons and green apple
sauce. However, there’s a brisk, underlying minerality
and great acidity, making the wine seem exceptionally
clean. Try pairing it with broiled or fried chicken and
cole slaw. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
87
Rutherford Hill 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Nice, clean and brisk, this has
flavors of lemongrass, white pepper, cream, butter and
just a hint of white flower. While it’s technically dry,
there’s lots of California-style ripe fruit. Easy to like as
an appetizer wine. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
87
Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Estate Grown
Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This is crisp in acidity, tasting slightly
sweet in citrus and apricot jam, with notes of green pepper and gooseberry that provide balancing complexity.
It has the versatility to pair with a wide range of foods,
including Asian-style fare and roasted chicken. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $22
87
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2011
Sauvignon Blanc (California). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $8
86
Bernardus 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey County). The flavors are nice and ripe,
suggesting tropical fruits and zesty limes with a touch of
honey, brightened by a cut of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $18
86
Pont de Chevalier 2010 Sauvignon Blanc
(Knights Valley). The chilly vintage took its
toll on this wine, giving it a wintergreen-minty, grassy
taste that’s very strong, overlaying the lime and pink
grapefruit flavors. It’s very dry and crisp in acidity.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
86
Rock Hollow 2010 Vintner’s Selection
Sauvignon Blanc (Santa Barbara County). Nicely crisp in acidity, this has a minerally scour
that cleans the mouth. The pineapple, lime and guava flavors are strong, and the finish seems just a little
sweet. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
85
Honker Blanc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). This tastes sweet, with a honey-infused orange flavor. There’s a crisp note of acidity for balance. Overall, this is easy to drink with almost
anything calling for a white wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $14
85
Martin Ray 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). With some tart pinkgrapefruit and lime flavors, this bone-dry Sauvignon
Blanc is fine to drink now. The acidity gets the tastebuds watering. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
85
Mirassou 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). A fairly simple wine, it’s rich in mouthwatering acidity, with ripe citrus, tropical fruit, melon and
honey flavors. Unoaked, this should be versatile with a
broad range of foods. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
84
Kendall-Jackson 2011 Vintner’s Reserve
Sauvignon Blanc (California). There’s a
seemingly sweet edge to the lemon, lime and vanilla flavors, which are fortunately balanced with crisp acidity.
Fans of richly styled white wines will like this bottling.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
83
Emmolo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). This seems sweet in jammy pineapple and lemon fruit. It’s an easy wine, balanced by crisp
acidity and a clean finish. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $16
WHITE BLENDS
89
Borra 2011 Intuition Field Blend White
(Lodi). This is a field blend of Kerner, Gewürztraminer and Rieslaner, what winemaker Markus Niggli
calls a “Swiss blend.” It opens with a great fleshy nose
of pear and almond, showing off a strong foundation of
acidity. It’s perfectly dry, with a hint of sea-like saltiness.
It almost tastes like Vermentino, but the musky lychee
note screams Gewürztraminer. —V.B.
Price: $22
abv: 12.8%
88
Borra 2011 Fusion White Wine (Lodi).
Another eclectic white from Borra, this blend
is 91% Viognier and 9% Gewürztraminer. It’s pungent
with notes of apricot fuzz, grapefruit and honey, with a
deft floral finish. A light, well-made and refreshing wine,
this has sufficient acidity to pair with seafood —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $17
88
Elyse 2010 L’Ingenue Naggiar Vineyard
(Sierra Foothills). Stark and sharp at first, this
blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and G
renache
Blanc is sophisticated, with notes of pear and stone
fruit—such as apricot and white plum—that are accentuated by a figgy finish. With plenty of meat on its bones
and a lush mouthfeel, it’ll stand up to thick sauces and
the richness of lobster and crab. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
87
Chimney Rock 2010 Elevage Blanc
(Napa Valley). This is forward and spicy, with
flavors of citrus fruit, green apple and nectarine that star
in this creamy blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon
Gris. It’s dry and crisp in acidity—perfect for drinking
with a broad range of ethnic fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $39
87
Murrieta’s Well 2011 The Whip White
Wine (Livermore Valley). A wisp of a white
blend, this is mostly Chardonnay and Sémillon, with 9%
Orange Muscat that comes through most powerfully
and pleasantly on the nose. It’s a light wine that’s meant
to be enjoyed chilled. With its ripe stone-fruit flavors
and minerality, it’s perfect for pairing with appetizers of
all sorts. —V.B.
Price: $19
abv: 12.5%
87
Spann Vineyards 2010 Betsy’s Backacher (California). On its own, this is dry and
earthy, with a taste of Middle Eastern hummus, apricots
and oranges. It’s certainly offbeat, but it can certainly
be paired with food. How about hummus with teriyaki
salmon? —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $17
84
Halter Ranch 2011 Côtes de Paso Blanc
(Paso Robles). Fruity and seemingly sweet,
this blend of Rhône-style varieties has orange jam,
Asian pear and vanilla flavors. Good but simple, this
should be versatile with picnic-type fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
84
Kitchen Sink NV Reserve White Table
Wine (California). Made from a bunch of
varieties, with a base of Viognier, this seems designed to
appeal to the Moscato crowd. It seems almost as sweet
as a dessert wine, with apricot, tangerine and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
OTHER WHITE WINES
92
Hendry 2011 Albariño (Napa Valley).
Even in the cool 2011 vintage, this wine really
shines. It’s bone dry, low in alcohol and high in acidity, making it a delicious accompaniment to a range of
foods. Complex citrus, white flower and mineral flavors
carry it over the goal line. This is one of the best Albariños of the vintage. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
92
Uvaggio 2011 Vermentino (Lodi). Made
from a hard-to-find variety in California, this
bright, beautifully aromatic wine expresses gorgeous
scents of jasmine that follow through in flavor to the finish. Its layers of lime, apple and a generous level of minerality are perfectly executed and waiting for seafood.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
WineMag.com | 49
90
Black Ridge 2010 Viognier (Santa Cruz
Mountains). This is a rich, ripe, forward Viognier, with flashy bursts of peaches, pears, tropical fruits,
honeysuckle, vanilla, buttercream and toasty oak. It
straddles the dry-sweet border, with a good burst of
acidity. Pair it with pork in a chutney sauce. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
90
Claiborne & Churchill 2011 Dry Riesling
(Edna Valley). It’s bone dry, with that famous
Edna Valley acidity, making for a mouthwatering wine.
The flavors are subtle but compelling, suggesting lemons and limes and touches of papaya and white flowers.
A beautiful white wine to accompany an appetizer, at a
very appealing price. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
89
Birichino 2011 Malvasia Bianca (Monterey). Although it’s rich in honey-like flavors,
the dry finish makes this more table wine than dessert
wine. With extraordinary acidity and flavors of tangerine
and vanilla, it’s delicious, but there’s a complexity that
sommeliers will find wonderfully challenging to match
with food. —S.H.
Price: $15
abv: 13%
89
Foxen 2011 Ernesto Wickenden Old
Vines Chenin Blanc (Santa Maria Valley).
Foxen consistently makes one of the best Chenin Blancs
in California, and sells it at a fair price. This is a very
nice wine, dry and crisp, with green apple, honey and
citrus flavors, and a savory hint of green. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $25
87
Fenestra 2011 Silvaspoons Vineyard
Verdelho (Lodi). Fenestra, an estimable producer of obscure Spanish and Portugese varieties in
California, does not disappoint with this Verdelho. Like
a just-ripe pineapple, the wine is high in acidity and savory in strong tones of lemon and lime. Clean and fresh,
it pairs well with seafood. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
86
Fenestra 2011 Ghielmetti Vineyard Semillon (Livermore Valley). With overtones of
lemon, vanilla and oak, this fleshy Semillon tastes big
and needs strong flavors to complement its heft. The
finish features a lingering richness. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $15
86
Sorelle Winery 2010 Grazia Pinot Grigio
(Lodi). A straightforward, subtle version of Pinot Grigio, light in alcohol, a good choice as an apéritif
or as an accompaniment to a light lunch. A lean lemon
quality dominates its flavors and aromas. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
86
Villa Toscano 2011 White Barbera
(Shenandoah Valley). This bright, citrusy
White Barbera has aromas and flavors of lemon, lime
and baked bread. Its balance and tropical fruit finish
will please a crowd. —V.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
85
Villa Toscano 2011 Pinot Grigio (California). This well-priced, light-bodied Pinot Grigio provides flavors of stone fruit—mostly apricot—
with a tiny trace of petrol. It would make a fine apéritif,
particularly alongside oysters or shrimp. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $13
SPARKLING WINES
97
Iron Horse NV Joy! (Green Valley). For full
review see page 3.
abv: 13%
Price: $189/1.5 L
96
Iron Horse 2004 Chinese Cuvée (Green
Valley). For full review see page 3.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $98
the game with this sparkling wine. It’s enormously attractive in strawberries and limes, vanilla bean, yeasty
dough and smoky flavors that finish a little sweet. The
texture is pure silk and satin. This is a great expression
of Arroyo Grande sparkling wine, and the price is well
worth it. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
91
Roederer Estate NV Brut (Anderson Valley). This blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40%
Pinot Noir is one of the best sparkling wines you’ll find
at this price. It’s stylishly dry and fancy, with yeasty lime,
strawberry and vanilla flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $23
95
Schramsberg 2005 J. Schram (NapaMendocino-Sonoma-Marin). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $115
90
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90
Roederer Estate 2004 L’Ermitage Rosé
(Anderson Valley). The winery’s top rosé is
a Chardonnay-Pinot Noir blend. It shows equal parts
limes, pears, strawberries and raspberries, reflecting its
parentage. What lifts it to greatness is the structure, so
refined and creamy, rich in acidity, with a yeasty bitterness. It has that hard to define quality of finesse that
makes it gorgeous to drink now with the finest foods.
—S.H.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $70
93
Gloria Ferrer 2004 Late Disgorged Extra
Brut Reserve Cuvée (Carneros). Lots to
like in this lovely sparkling wine, aged on the yeast for
many years before being released. It shows a doughy
toastiness to the sunny, ripe raspberries, limes and vanilla, and is silky in texture. Elegant and upscale, it’s at
its best now, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $45
93
Mumm Napa 2004 DVX (Napa Valley).
This is the winery’s highest quality wine, named
in honor of their late winemaker, Guy Devaux, who
brought a Champagne sensibility to the brand. At the
age of eight years, it’s softly complex and delicious in
lime, raspberry, yeasty brioche and vanilla flavors. It has
that hard to define quality of finesse that makes a fine
sparkling wine so special. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $65
Gloria Ferrer 2007 Blanc de Blancs
(Carneros). For full review see page 10.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $28
Iron Horse 2007 Brut X (Green Valley).
For full review see page 10.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
90
Roederer Estate NV Brut Rosé (Anderson Valley). From the yeasty, strawberrytinged aroma to the brisk, doughy mouthfeel through to
the honeyed, complex finish, this is a fine wine. It feels
beautiful, clean and stimulating, just as a sparkling wine
should. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $28
89
Iron Horse 2007 Brut Rosé (Green Valley). Even at five years old, this remains a
young, vigorous but rather heavy sparkling wine. Made
mainly from Pinot Noir, with the remainder Chardonnay, it has a dark salmon color and is strong in acidity,
with raspberry, vanilla and dough flavors. The different
parts are not in harmony quite yet. Give it 3–5 years.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
89
Mumm Napa NV Brut Rosé (Napa Valley).
What an easy-to-drink, delicious bubbly this is.
With a golden salmon color, it’s rich in flavors of strawberry, raspberry, lime, vanilla and yeast. It finishes with
a subtle sweetness. Pair it with sushi, sashimi or hambased dishes. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
92
88
92
87
Iron Horse 2007 Ocean Reserve (Green
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Iron Horse 2007 Russian Cuvée (Green
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
92
Laetitia 2008 Cuvée M (Arroyo Grande
Valley). There’s a honeyed accent to this sparkler, with tangerine, lime, buttered toast and yeasty flavors that are savory and complex. The mouthfeel is wonderfully soft and creamy. A great success for Laetitia, at
a good price. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
92
Laetitia 2007 Brut Coquard (Arroyo
Grande Valley). Deliciousness is the name of
Korbel NV Blanc de Noirs (California).
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Gloria Ferrer NV Va de Vi Ultra Cuvée
(Sonoma County). This pretty, polished brutstyle bubbly offers vanilla, strawberry, lime, honey and
toast flavors. It’s a little sweet, but the texture is very
smooth, putting it in the league of more expensive sparkling wines. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
87
Iron Horse 2008 Wedding Cuvée (Green
Valley). Mainly Pinot Noir, with just 15% Chardonnay, this full-bodied bubbly has notes of seemingly
sweet raspberries. The mouthfeel is slightly coarse. Still,
it shows plenty of elegance, and if you’re toasting the
wedding couple, it’s just fine. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
87
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87
Korbel NV Chardonnay (California). For
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Korbel NV Sweet Rosé (California). As the
label says, this is a sweet bubbly, but it’s not insipid or cloying. Brisk acidity keeps the raspberry and
vanilla flavors clean. Although it’s a little scoury, the
price is right for a wine that’s so deliciously drinkable.
—S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
87
86
85
Korbel NV Brut (California). For full review
see page 11.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
87
Korbel 2010 Brut Made With Organically
Grown Grapes (California). For full review
see page 11. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
87
Korbel 2009 Natural (Russian River Valley). A nice brut-style sparkling wine, made
from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It’s clean and crisp
in acidity, with seemingly sweet flavors of orange, lime,
raspberry and dough. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
87
Laetitia 2009 Brut de Blancs (Arroyo
Grande Valley). This is a little rough and
scouring on the mouth, but otherwise a fine sparkling
wine. It’s rich and slightly sweet, with orange, lime, vanilla and yeasty dough flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
87
Mumm Napa NV Brut Prestige (Napa Valley). There’s plenty of fanciness in this rich
bubbly, with raspberry, strawberry, lime and vanilla flavors and that famous yeasty doughiness that characterizes good sparkling wine. Brisk in acidity, it’s a little on
the sweet side, but very clean. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
86
Barefoot Bubbly NV Moscato Spumante
(California). For full review see page 13. Best
Buy.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $11
86
Barefoot Bubbly NV Pink Moscato (California). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $11
86
Iron Horse 2007 Classic Vintage Brut
(Green Valley). Pleasant and tasty, this has
the raspberry, lime, dough and smoke flavors typical of
a fine California sparkling wine. It’s a little scoury, especially by the standards of Iron Horse, with a sandpapery
roughness to its bubbles. Drink it now, well chilled.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
86
Laetitia 2009 Brut de Noirs (Arroyo
Grande Valley). This rich and forward sparkling wine is fit for everyday drinking, with flavors of
strawberry and raspberry parfait accompanied by a nice
doughiness. It’s pretty scoury, though, which gives it an
abrasive mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
86
Laetitia 2008 Brut Rosé (Arroyo Grande
Valley). With its scoury, scratchy moutfeel, this
wine lacks delicacy. But it is rich and layered in strawberries and red raspberries, and is easy to drink. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
85
Barefoot Bubbly NV Pinot Grigio (California). Scouring and sweet, this wine features flavors of vanilla, yeast and ripe lemon meringue. It is easy
to drink with almost anything, at price fit for everyday
enjoyment. —S.H.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
85
Biltmore NV Blanc de Blancs (Russian
River Valley). The scouring mouthfeel of this
wine is its biggest issue. Although it’s dryish and creamy,
with pleasant flavors of dough, lime, orange and vanilla,
its roughness limits its score. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
85
Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Noirs (Carneros). This seemingly sweet wine shows lots
of ripe, rich raspberries and vanilla, with a nice yeasty
doughiness. Yet there’s good acidity, and the finish is
very clean. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
85
Gloria Ferrer NV Sonoma Brut (Sonoma
County). A bit rough and scouring in texture,
this tastes too sweet. Its orange and strawberry notes
have a sugary edge. It’s an easy bubbly to drink at parties. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
84
Korbel NV Sweet Cuvée (California). This
bubbly is on the sweet side. It has sugary pineapple and orange flavors. A little scoury in texture, it’s
an easy sparkling wine to drink with sweet foods, like
wedding cake. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Korbel NV Brut Rosé (California). This
pleasant bubbly seems sweet and crisp, featuring flavors of raspberry, strawberry, vanilla and yeast.
With a rich copper color, it’s an affordable sparkling
wine to drink with sushi. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
ROSÉS
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91
Korbel NV Extra Dry (California). Not as
dry as the name suggests, this offering seems
fairly sweet, with sugary lime, orange and vanilla flavors.
You’ll find a rich streak of doughy yeast and acidity, giving it that typical Champagne note. —S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Birichino 2011 Vin Gris Rosé (California).
One of the more successful rosés of the year,
this wine looks to Provence for inspiration. It has a pretty partridge-eye color, and is light-bodied, dry and crisp
in acidity, with complex herb, citrus, apricot and vanilla
flavors. It will pair deliciously with fish stews, ham or
pesto pasta. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Sorelle Winery 2011 Sogno Dolce Rosato Sangiovese (Lodi). A robust rosato made
from Sangiovese grapes, this wine has been saignéed
and aged in oak for three months. It has a meaty edge
about it. Medium-to-full in body, it tastes of ripe strawberry and watermelon. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Stein Family 2011 Magic Hour White
Moscato (Lodi). Difficult to categorize, although the winery calls it a ”rosato,” this wine contains
86% white Moscato, but gets its red color from the addition of 14% Cabernet Franc. Light and bright, with
a touch of sweetness (2.89% residual sugar), its flavors
veer toward ripe strawberry purée and dark plum. It retains enough acidity to not taste cloying, though, and it
is light in alcohol. —V.B.
abv: 11%
Price: $20
82
Halter Ranch 2011 Rosé (Paso Robles).
With an off-putting orange color, this Rhônestyle blend seems sweet, with orange, apricot and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
PINOT NOIR
98
Flowers 2010 Sea View Ridge Estate
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For
abv: 14%
Price: $70
96
Flowers 2010 Camp Meeting Ridge Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This wine is an absolute joy to drink, and such a great
expression of its Sonoma Coast vineyard. Its dryness,
acidity and minerality highlight its terroir. Its texture
is light and silky. Yet it’s immensely complex in flavors,
suggesting red cherry, licorice and exotic spices that are
so rich, they’re almost sweet in the finish. A tremendous
Pinot Noir for drinking now, and it should develop in
the bottle for a decade. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
93
Dutton Estate 2010 Karmen Isabella Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This instantly delicious wine shows classic Russian
River structure of firm tannins and brisk acidity, with
a light, silky mouthfeel framing flavors of ripe raspberry, cherry, vanilla, mint, roasted almond and sweet oak.
Drink it within the next five years for maximum enjoyment. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.6%
93
Dutton-Goldfield 2010 McDougall Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This successful Pinot Noir from a difficult vintage treads an exciting line: It contains subtle notes of tomato and beetroot, but that vegetativeness only adds an earthy complexity to the ripe flavors of black cherry and plum. It’s
a fancy, elegant wine to drink now, and should gain traction over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
93
Flowers 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This wine seems fruity, sweet and pure, with
wonderfully bracing acidity and gentle tannins. The
WineMag.com | 51
mouthfeel is light and graceful. Its notes of raspberry
and smoky oak make it amazingly drinkable. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
93
Gallo Signature Series 2010 Pinot Noir
(Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
92
Dutton Estate 2010 Jewell Block Vineyard Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Right out of the bottle, this wine is
closed, but after a little while, notes of mushroom and
balsam emerge. In the mouth, the wine features deep
pomegranate and persimmon, those earthy red fruits so
characteristic of a cool climate Pinot Noir. The structure
is very good, with firm tannins and brisk acidity. Give
this youthful wine 2–3 years in the bottle. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $53
92
Dutton Estate 2010 Manzana Vineyard
Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This tastes ripe, fruity and forward, with notes
of raspberry jam, vanilla bean, flat Dr. Pepper, baking
pie spice and smoky sandalwood. Extravagant and opulent, it’s a lovely Pinot Noir to drink now, though its delicate balance of tannin, acid and alcohol should hold in
the bottle over the next six years. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
92
Etude 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Carneros). There’s a toughness to this wine
that makes it hard to appreciate now, but it will soften
with some time in the cellar. Dry, silky and tannic, it features an enormous black-cherry flavor, with considerable oak overtones. It is an altogether impressive wine.
Given its fine structure, it should develop over the next
6–8 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $42
92
MacRostie 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
92
Roadhouse Winery 2010 Black Label Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). The cool 2010
vintage has allowed Roadhouse to express its focused
and elegant approach to Pinot Noir with great success.
Black Label is a small-production barrel selection. Silky
and delicate in the mouth, it features dramatically layered flavors: cola, exotic spice, sweet red cherry and ripe
raspberry. It’s a little hot on the finish, which limits its
score. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
92
Roadhouse Winery 2010 Green Label Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This wine shows
its cool, coastal terroir in its brisk acidity, delicate structure and silky mouthfeel. You can taste the long, cool
growing season in tart, refined flavors of cherry pie, persimmon and cranberry candy. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $48
91
Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Fox Den Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Green Valley). The cool vintage
in the Russian River Valley has resulted in a very dry,
acidic young wine, one so transparent in texture, you
can practically taste the minerals of the soil. It defines
a more delicate style, yet its persimmon flavor is very
powerful. Fully drinkable now, after decanting, it will
last in the cellar for 4–5 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
91
Jeriko 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Mendocino). Beautifully light in color and texture,
this silky Pinot Noir is deliciously adorned by rose petal
and ripe red-cherry notes, followed by a depth of raspberry and earth flavors. Made from certified-biodynamic grapes, this young wine bodes well for the 2011 vintage across Mendocino. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
91
Mount Eden 2010 Estate Bottled Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This wine
feels angular, as if the flavors of raspberry and sour cherry candy had gotten a squeeze of lime for extra zestiness. The tannins are rich and pronounced, and the finish is splendidly dry. Give it six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 13.5%
91
Roadhouse Winery 2010 Purple Label
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain). The western slopes of Sonoma Mountain, hit by cool maritime
breezes, are ideal for Pinot Noir, although little is grown
there. This excellent example is dry and in structure and
enormously dense in flavor, offering masses of cherry
pie filling, plum sauce, sandalwood and spice that are a
touch hot in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
90
Bernardus 2010 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Showcasing
the Pisoni signature of huge, bold fruit, this wine has
ripe and savory flavors of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, persimmon. The wine tastes of oak, too, in the form
of vanilla and smoky butter. It’s a delicious wine. Give
it six years in a good cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
90
Saracina 2010 Klindt Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle,
this bone-dry Pinot is brittle and mute, so give it a good
long decant to let the air mellow it. Eventually, it releases plenty of sour-raspberry-candy, mushroom and
plum-sauce flavors that finish rich and spicy. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
90
Testarossa 2010 Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is
a classic example of the Testarossa style, which features
upfront, delicious fruit and instant drinkability. Here,
you’ll find ripe, spicy raspberry and cherry, brightened
by crisp coastal acidity and enhanced by a touch of
smoky oak. Drink it now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Urban Legend 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A lovely Pinot Noir, light in body and silky
in texture, with very powerful flavors. It kicks in with
cherry pie filling, cola, white pepper and sandalwood,
and feels creamy throughout, with brisk coastal acidity. Its modest alcohol makes it a versatile Pinot Noir.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $38
89
Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Califa Pinot
Noir (Edna Valley). There’s lots of brisk acidity in this bone-dry Pinot, which gives it a mouthwatering tartness. Coupled with raspberry and cherry fruit, it
has a sour candy taste, which is relieved by smoky oak.
It’s light bodied, but it maintains a certain elegance. Try
it with tuna tartare. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
89
Dutton Estate 2010 Thomas Road Vineyard - Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This Pinot is very rich in flavor, maybe
too much so. It features a blast of jammy raspberry and
cherry, with heavy cola syrup and smoky, oaky vanilla.
Though certainly delicious and refined, it is a bit onedimensional. Drink it soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
89
Schug 2010 Schug Estate Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Light bodied, tart and elegant,
this is fine to drink now with tuna or steak tartare. It’s
bone dry, sleek and brisk in acidity, with Dr. Pepper and
red licorice flavors leading to a complex, spicy finish.
—S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
88
Bernardus 2010 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). So ripe and
decadent, it is perhaps the wine equivalent of a candy
bar, with raspberry, cherry, red currant, vanilla and cinnamon flavors. Pinot doesn’t get any tastier than this,
but it does get more complex. Still, this is fancy enough
to drink over the next six years with steak, duck, tuna or
lamb. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
88
Bernardus 2010 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Big,
bold flavors of cherry pie, red currant, toasty oak and vanilla mark this ripe, tasty Pinot. It has broad appeal, successfully made for a palate that likes accessibile wines
that seem sweet and fruity. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
88
Domaine Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Here’s a nice, dry Pinot
from Mount Eden Vineyards ideal for drinking now.
It’s gentle in the mouth, with soft tannins and a boost
of acidity to highlight the raspberry and cola flavors.
—S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 13.5%
88
Schug 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A rich,
vital Pinot Noir, nice for drinking now with
steak or lamb. It’s elegant and modest and will playing a
supporting role to your food. Acidic and dry, it features
subtle flavors of sour cherry candy, pomegranate amd
exotic spice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
87
Sierra Madre 2010 Estate Pinot Noir
(Santa Maria Valley). The vineyard is legendary, but the brand has struggled to define itself for years.
This 2010 is rich in raspberry, cherry and oak, but it is
a little heavy-handed. After a brief decant, it’s ready to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
86
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Wetzel
Family Estate Pinot Noir (Alexander Valley). This Pinot is ripe in jammy cherry fruit, and it has
a smoky, buttery richness from oak. But it’s a little soft
and heavy for the variety, which is perhaps to be expected given its Alexander Valley origin. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
86
Bernardus 2010 Sierra Mar Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
tastes and feels a little heavy and sweet, with prominent
cherry candy flavors. It’s quite tasty, but one-dimensional in its appeal. Drink now—it’s hard to see it devloping
much in the bottle. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $55
86
Dutton-Goldfield 2010 Devil’s Gulch
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Marin County). Not
fully ripe, this has a flavor of green tomato jelly alongside notes of cherry and cola. It shows the delicate texture and crisp acidity you expect from this coastal vineyard, but don’t try to age this wine. Drink it now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
86
Goyette 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). You’ll find some good cherry, vanilla, cola
and sandalwood flavors in this dry Pinot Noir. It’s on
the light side, but is modest in alcohol, with an elegant
mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
86
Gundlach Bundschu 2010 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This
dark, heavy Pinot Noir is surprisingly soft for a Sonoma
Coast bottling, despite its rich layers of black cherry
pie, licorice, cola and smoky sandalwood. Drink it now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
86
Rossi Wallace 2011 Pinot Noir (Napa Valley). The wine’s greenness shows its cool Atlas
Peak origins as well as the lack of ripeness in the chilly
vintage. It tastes of mint-inflected raspberry tea, and is
very dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
85
Birichino 2011 Saint Georges Pinot Noir
(Central Coast). Pretty good for the price,
although in Pinot Noir, the old adage of you-get-whatyou-pay-for remains true. It’s simple, with a flavor
of oak-infused raspberry jam and lots of zesty acidity.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
85
Buena Vista 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). Pretty good for its price, this wine
shows classic Pinot character in its light, silky mouthfeel and zesty flavors of cherry and ripe persimmon. Although it’s a little too sweet, many consumers will like
that. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
85
Roadhouse Winery 2010 Orange Label
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and
silky, this is a good Pinot Noir, though it’s a little too ripe,
which gives the blackberry and cherry notes a pruny,
hot taste. Try it with beef stew and prunes to echo the
flavors. —S.H.
Price: $48
abv: 14.9%
vor. It tastes sugary-sweet all through the finish. It was
tasted twice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
85
CABERNETS & BLENDS
84
Chimney Rock 2009 Ganymede Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Delicious, stunning and dramatic, this varietal
Cabernet shows exquisite balance of its many parts. The
tannins are fierce but refined; the dryness complements
flavors of ripe blackberry, black currant and dark chocolate; its smoky oak is subtle; a refreshing acidity provides
life and zest. The overall impression is of an extraordinarily fine wine, drinkable now but capable of aging
over many years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Schug 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
A thin, country-style Pinot Noir, light in color and body and tart in acidity. The flavors are very
dry, suggesting cranberry, cola and sour cherry candy.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
Educated Guess 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Oak-barrel aging dominates this wine,
swamping the aromas and flavors with buttered toast
and caramel that would be more pleasing in a Chardonnay. The underlying wine is dry and silky, with red cherry fruit brightened by zesty acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
84
Nuggucciet 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Accompanying the raspberry and
cranberry are green mint and vegetal notes. Made from
a single vineyard, it shows a nice silkiness and dryness,
with crisp acidity, but that lack of generosity lowers its
score. —S.H.
Price: $30
abv: 14.8%
84
Talbott 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The
vineyard is in one of the coolest growing areas in the
state, and the 2010 vintage was unusually chilly. The
result is a wine with a vegetal note. The greenness is
just powerful enough to lower the score and certainly
to prevent ageability. This wine was tasted twice, with
consistent results. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
83
McManis 2011 Pinot Noir (California).
This feels rustic in the mouth, with edgy tannins and a streak of green mint. Still, it’s dry and silky,
with enough raspberry and cherry fruit to satisfy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
83
Talbott 2010 Kali Hart Pinot Noir (Monterey). Acidic and minty, this Pinot Noir just
doesn’t have enough richness, despite some modest
cherry and cola flavors. Its dry and silky qualities are
pleasant. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $21
82
Mirassou 2011 Pinot Noir (California).
Simple and seemingly sweet, this wine has pinkbubblegum and cherry-vanilla flavors, brightened by focused acidity. It gets across the basic idea of Pinot Noir.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Talbott 2010 Logan Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s a green, vegetal unripeness to this wine that suggests asparagus. The cool
vintage simply didn’t provide enough warmth to ripen
the grapes, though the alcohol still manages to be quite
high, which gives the wine a hot feeling. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
82
Thomas Scott 2010 Grand Reserve Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Simple and
sharp in acidity, this Pinot has a jammy raspberry fla-
96
96
Chimney Rock 2009 Tomahawk Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). This is so charming now, it’s hard to keep from
drinking it. But it also has the dynamic tension to age
well. Chimney Rock enters a whole new ballgame with
its 2009 releases, which can stand against almost anything in Napa Valley. With a fleshy mouthfeel, softly
sculpted tannins and complex flavors of blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate and plum sauce, this wine is decadently delicious. Drink now–2020. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $135
96
Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer To
Kalon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
abv: 15.5%
Price: $135
95
Chimney Rock 2009 Elevage (Stags
Leap District). A classic Napa Valley Bordeaux blend, dry, smooth, complex and elegant. Based
on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s an instant pleaser, from the dryness and mellow texture to the delicious
blackberry, cassis, plum, dark chocolate and smoky oak
flavors. It will provide wonderful drinking over many
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
95
Hidden Ridge 2007 Impassable Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). For full review see page 4. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $75
95
Knights Bridge 2009 Beckstoffer Dr.
Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $135
95
Sequoia Grove 2008 Cambium (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $125
95
Viader 2009 Red (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $115
WineMag.com | 53
94
Bell 2008 Clone 6 Unfiltered Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from 100%
Cabernet grown in the Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard, and aged in mostly new French and American oak,
its tannins are tough as nails. Yet there’s a vast core of
blackberry and black cherry fruit that’s just yearning to
break out. With modest alcohol (the official reading is a
mere 13.2% by volume), it’s a natural choice for the cellar. It should begin to blossom by 2016 and continue to
develop beyond 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $120
94
Hunnicutt 2009 9-3-5 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This barrel selection
aptly defines Hunnicutt’s style of ripe, sweetly concentrated fruit. It’s enormous in blackberry and cherry
notes, yet has layers of herb, spice and oak that prevent
it from being a mere fruit bomb. Sourced from St. Helena, Rutherford and Oakville grapes, it’s a fancy wine to
drink over the next eight years with great beef entrées.
—S.H.
Price: $125
abv: 14.6%
94
Jarvis 2009 Will Jarvis’ Science Project
abv: 13.7%
Price: $125
94
Sequoia Grove 2008 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
93
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2008 Cyrus
(Alexander Valley). For full review see page
and check up on it; this could be really something in
2025. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $125
abv: 15%
93
(Napa Valley). Although it’s soft, it shows
enough structure to support exceptionally ripe blackberry, black currant and spice flavors, with richness added by a heady note of liqueur. The tannins are substantial, and the wine is already throwing some sediment.
Very nice now, and it should develop bottle nuance over
the next 6–8 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $72
93
Sequoia Grove 2008 Lamoreaux Vineyards Oak Knoll Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Fine and pure, this is a very
good representative of Oak Knoll. The vintage had lots
of warmth, coaxing ripe blackberry and currant flavors
from the grapes, while preserving dryness, vital tannins
and crisp acid structure. Overall, it is elegant and luscious. Good as it is now, give this at least six years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $90
abv: 14.4%
93
Sequoia Grove 2008 Morisoli Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This
wine shows the soft, dusty tannins and sour red cherry
fruit that the vineyard is known for, while more than
four years have mellowed it to beautiful drinkability.
Should continue to develop in the cellar for another 10
years or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
Price: $60
92
Hunnicutt 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Superbly ripe, with gorgeous
blackberry jam, crème de cassis and toasted oak flavors.
It defines the modern style of Cabernet. Although it’s
very tannic, its richness will tempt you to drink it right
away. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
5.
abv: 14.4%
93
93
Knights Bridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). For full review see
page 6.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $115
93
Liparita 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
93
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $72
93
Macauley 2009 Beckstoffer To Kalon
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
There’s a very fine wine lurking inside this bottle, but
right now, everything’s disjointed. There are big tannins
over here, oak over there, and sandwiched in between
are huge, intense flavors of blackberry, blueberry and
cassis liqueur. It’s nowhere near ready, but there’s no
reason why this dramatic young wine shouldn’t come together and improve over the years. Cellar it until 2017
Chateau St. Jean 2008 Cinq Cépages
(Sonoma County). This is bold and assertive, yet mellow. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, it
shows the house style of soft approachability and complexity, offering tiers of blackberry, currant, sage, dried
herb and smoky oak. Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $75
Chimney Rock 2009 Alpine Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). A gorgeous 100% Cabernet, rich and mellow,
with classic blackberry and cassis flavors. It’s one of the
winery’s softer ’09 Cabs, which may limit its ageability.
Although it’s pretty tannic, you can decant it and drink
it now with fancy food, or cellar it for up to six years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
92
Hoopes 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). For full review see page 7. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
92
Hypothesis 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
abv: 15%
Price: $40
92
In Re 2009 You Be The Judge Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A beautiful Cabernet, rich, ripe and softly delicious, with flavors of
blackberry, cherry, cassis and mocha. The tannins are
soft, the oak-driven flavors sweet. It’s perfect for drinking now with a great steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $65
92
Jarvis 2008 Lake William Estate Grown
Cave Fermented (Napa Valley). For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $155
92
Liparita 2009 V Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review see page 8.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $60
92
Provenance Vineyards 2009 Three Palms
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This famous vineyard in Calistoga always produces red wines with gigantic, hard tannins, and so it is with
this ’09 Cab. It’s so astringent that it’s not drinkable now.
Such is the core of blackberries, black cherries and currants, though, that the wine should age effortlessly over
the next 8–10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
92
Ravenswood 2008 Pickberry (Sonoma
Mountain). There’s an interesting and complex
tannin structure to this bone-dry, Merlot-based Bordeaux blend, grown in the little known but high-quality
Sonoma Mountain appellation of Sonoma County. With
an earthiness to the wild blackberry and blueberry flavors, it’s a bit edgy and coarse, but that’s a function of
youth. Give it a good eight years and see how it’s doing.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $50
abv: 13.7%
92
Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown
For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $75
92
(Calistoga). For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
91
Jean Edwards 2009 Stagecoach Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
This wine shows its pedigreed terroir in the purity of
sweetly ripe blackberry and currant flavors, dryness,
and the quality its of tannins. The latter are rich, strong
and elaborate. As good as it is, however, the astringency
makes it too young to enjoy now. Aging is not a certainty
given the softness, but give it 5–6 years and see what
happens. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $65
abv: 14.2%
91
Joseph Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). With vigorous blackberry,
black currant, dark chocolate and oak flavors, this wine
certainly tastes young. The tannins are strong, and
there’s a primary-fruit sweetness that needs some time
to settle. It’s finely constructed enough that 6–8 years
in a good cellar doesn’t seem to be a risk. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $70
91
Rodney Strong 2009 Symmetry Red Meritage (Alexander Valley). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
91
Silver Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This lovely wine shows the
soft tannins and herbaceousness you often find in Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignons. That dried herb
taste accompanies blackberry and black currant fruit.
It’s classic Silver Oak, dry and elegant. Drink now–2016.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $70
91
Tyler Florence 2008 TF Cab Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This strong,
brawny wine is fuzzy in tannins and brambly in wild
blackberry and cassis flavors. There’s a sweetness to it
that suggests liqueur, though the finish is dry. The new
oak is strong but proportionate to the wine’s inherent
volume. Entirely drinkable now, despite its power, with
a great grilled steak, but if you have a cellar, try stashing
it for six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
90
Chimney Rock 2009 Clone 7 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). A very
good wine, soft and mellow, with a dry finish despite
plenty of sweetly ripe fruit. With raspberry, cherry, red
licorice and toasty oak flavors, it’s delicious. Drink soon
alongside a steak, possibly topped with a plum-and-berry salsa. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
90
Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 10.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $60
90
Lancaster 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is almost undrinkable now, despite its fantastically rich blackberry,
blueberry and cassis flavors. The tannins are substantial,
and the acidity sticks out like a squirt of lime juice. All
of its elements are good, but it needs time—as much as
a decade and possibly longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $75
90
Lyeth 2010 Chronology Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is a good price
for a Cab so rich and supple. It’s very deep in flavor,
with flavors of blackberry pie filling, milk chocolate, anise and sweet oak, yet it’s softly balanced and dry. Just
delicious for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Mount Eden 2008 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains).
Tough and tannic, this is made in a more aggressive style
than many of today’s Cabernets. There’s a rich, intense
core of blackberry jam that suggests superbly ripe fruit,
and the oak is well integrated. Those tannins make it
hard to appreciate at this time. Your best bet is to cellar the wine for a good eight years. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
90
Scarlett 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford). Made from 100%
Cabernet, this is a very rich, flamboyant wine. It brims
with blueberry and cherry jam flavors, with a chocolate
edge to the smoky new oak. The structure is impecca-
ble. While it doesn’t seem to be age worthy, it will drink
well over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
Price: $55
abv: 14.9%
90
Sequoia Grove 2009 Rutherford Bench
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Delicious and drinkable now, after decanting, for
its softly ripe black cherry, currant, dried herb and spice
flavors. The tannins are hefty, but not too much for a
fine steak to negotiate. It shows the fancy structure and
mouthfeel you associate with a great Rutherford Cabernet. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
90
Tudal 2010 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa-Sonoma). A succulent Cabernet to
drink now. Using fruit sourced from two counties, it’s
rich and ripe in blackberry jam, dark chocolate, anise
and oak flavors, with a firm supporting jacket of tannins.
It gets better as it breathes in the glass. Although it’s not
an ager, it’s soft, lovely and complex. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 14%
89
Domaine Eden 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Scratchy, dusty
tannins frame this Cabernet, giving it a rustic mouthfeel. The flavors of candied blackberry and cherry are
very rich and intense, with an overlay of smoky oak.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
89
Justin 2009 Isosceles (Paso Robles). This
Bordeaux blend is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon,
with a splash of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. It’s rich in
flavors of chocolate, blackberry and currant essence and
oak, wrapped into tannins that are soft and smooth but
firm. Delicious now, but precocious, all flash and sizzle.
Give it 5–6 years in the cellar to develop some bottle
complexity. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $62
89
Mueller Family Vineyards 2009 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Though
lower in price and quality than the previous vintage, this
is a very good Cabernet. Rich and ripe in blackberry,
currant, chocolate and intense new oak, it’s flashy in the
modern way, but it’s a bit soft. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $46
89
Schug 2008 Heritage Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A rich, ripe
Cabernet, forward in blackberry and cherry jam flavors.
A hint of dried herb grounds it and provides a level of
complexity, as does a touch of smoky cedar from oak
barrel aging. It’s not an ager, but it is fancy and delicious
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Sequoia Grove 2008 Rutherford Bench
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). There’s a dusty earthiness to this Cabernet that
makes it taste and feel rustic. It’s very dry, with fine
black cherry and currant flavors, and the oak is solid
and tasteful. But the tannins are tough, almost old-fashioned, and the acidity is notable. Try aging it for 6–8
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
89
Spann Vineyards 2009 Four Barrels Top
of the World Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). There’s lots of spicy, fruity richness
in this softly tannic Cabernet. It’s lush and forward
in flavors of blackberry and cherry pie, currant, plum
and cola. In the winter, give it a brief decant, but if the
weather’s warm, you can even chill it for 15 minutes in
the fridge: It’s that kind of wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
88
Grgich Hills 2008 Yountville Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). While
this Cabernet is very rich and ripe in flavors of blackberry and cherry jam, crème de cassis and new oak, it’s
also very tannic. That bite of astringency gives it a rustic
note. A very high, Port-like alcohol level may or may not
thwart cellaring plans. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $150
88
Joseph Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a bit hard and aggressive now, with a punch of green tannins. That makes
it hard to appreciate the underlying oaky, ripe blackberry and currant fruit. It doesn’t seem to have the inherent
balance necessary for aging, so give it a decanting and
drink it now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $70
88
Spann Vineyards 2009 Cross Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This is a fine Cabernet, with ripe berry, cherry and
cola flavors, tinged with smoky oak. The tannins are firm
but pliant, making it drinkable now, though it could develop bottle complexity over the years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
88
(Knights Valley). So peppery and spicy, with
such a briary mouthfeel, this wine could almost be Zinfandel. Even though it’s not particularly Cabernet-ish,
it’s still quite a nice wine, rich, complex in tannin and
dry. Drink over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
87
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc (Alexander Valley). Soft, juicy
and uncomplicated, this Cab Franc immediately offers
likeable cherry and sweet oak flavors. The tannins beg
for steak. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
87
Caricature 2010 Red (California). This has
a lively, whimsical label and some very good
juice within. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and
16% Zinfandel, it is intoxicatingly perfumed like cotton
candy. Otherwise jammy, with dark cherry and blackberry flavors, it has rounded tannins, a strong structure
and a soft leather finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $17
87
Dunning Vineyards 2009 Meritage (Paso
Robles). Juicy and jammy, this wine features
sweet blackberry and cherry fruit, with a touch of smoky
oak. The texture is a bit coarse, but a good broiled steak
will wrestle those tannins into submission. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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87
Faust 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is a soft, earthy wine, with dried
herb and currant flavors. It comes down on the subtle
side, with a bit of oak influence adding richness to the
wine’s otherwise dry texture. Drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
87
Goyette 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This shows lots of blackberry and currant flavors, along with a polished jacket of
smoky oak. It’s bone dry but a little heavy. Perfect for
easy drinking when you need a nice Cabernet and don’t
want to mortgage the house. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
87
Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Soft and earthy,
with dried herb and blackberry flavors tinged with
smoky oak, this is a gentle Cabernet for drinking now. It
has enough fanciness to partner with a nice steak or an
upscale beef taco. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.4%
87
Sequoia Grove 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and ripe, this features blackberry and currant flavors whose acidity provides a citrusy, jammy tartness. This is the winery’s least
expensive bottling, and an enticing introduction to its
future releases of ’09 vineyard-designated Cabs. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
87
Spann Vineyards 2009 Four Barrels Cabernet Franc (Sonoma County). You’ll find
an herbal note in this wine, suggesting sweet green peas
and dried herbs alongside riper touches of blackberry
and cherry. Although it’s pretty tannic, it’s soft, making
it drinkable now. It could be ideal with shepherd’s pie.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
86
Bernardus 2009 Signature Marinus (Carmel Valley). This Bordeaux blend is a little
too sharp and green. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, it
has a minty taste alongside the ripe blackberries. Oak
brings much-needed richness, but that tartness persists
through the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80
86
De Novo 2009 Bastille (Sonoma County).
Based on Merlot, this Bordeaux-style blend is
very ripe and forward in blueberry, cherry and raspberry jam, and it finishes in a swirl of dusty baking spices.
It’s a good wine, if a bit rustic, with some edgy tannins
and high alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $38
86
Educated Guess 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This has ripe, rewarding blackberry, cherry and oak flavors, wrapped in fullbodied tannins and finished with sweet oak. It’s easy to
drink with any beef or lamb dish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
86
Hendry 2008 RED (Napa Valley). There’s
lots of ripe, jammy blackberry and cherry fruits
in this Petit Verdot-based blend. It’s dry, robust, spicy
and a little rustic. Drink it now with pizza or a burger.
—S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.7%
86
Hoopla 2010 The Mutt (Napa Valley).
Here’s a simple but likeable blend of mainly
Cabernet, with some Merlot and Petite Sirah. It’s enormously ripe in blackberry jam, currant and spicy licorice
flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $33
86
Jeff Gordon 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is a solid Cab, rich in licorice, blackberry, mocha and toast, but it lacks subtlety.
It feels heavy and sharp in the mouth, with citrusy acid,
yet it doesn’t seem to have the inherent balance to age.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
86
Oberon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is elaborate, but too soft for a
great Napa Cabernet. That absence of structure accentuates its ripeness, giving it tastes of candied cherry and
licorice. On the plus side, it’s dry and smooth, with lots
of smoky new French oak. Drink now. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 13.7%
86
Ruby Red 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry
Creek Valley). You’ll find good, ripe and savory flavors of blackberry, currant and spice. A touch of
oak and a sweet licorice note give this 100% Cabernet
a candied appeal. It can’t quite escape its rustic mouthfeel, but it’s a nice glass of red wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $23
85
Dante 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). For the price, this is a great wine
for a party or an everyday dinner. It’s soft, easy to drink
and rich enough in cherry, berry and oak flavors to satisfy Cabernet lovers. And it’s easy to find, with 10,000
cases produced. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve
This Cabernet is soft, superripe and dry, with black
berry and raisin flavors and a raisinskin bitterness. It’s
pretty rustic, but easy beef dishes, like tacos, will coax
out its inherent richness. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
84
Counter Punch 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This is surprisingly soft
and one-dimensional for a Rutherford Cabernet. Although you’ll find rich cherry and raspberry fruit flavors,
the wine lacks depth and structure. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
84
Rutherford Hill 2009 Cabernet Franc
(Napa Valley). Although this Cab Franc has
some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec blended
in, it’s still too soft, and it’s missing structural integrity.
The lack of firmness accentuates the sweetness of the
fruit, making it taste candied. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
84
Spann Vineyards 2009 OMG Three Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (So-
noma Valley). This wine is seemingly sweet and soft,
with very ripe black cherry and persimmon flavors. In
fact, it’s almost too ripe, with a hint of raisins on the finish. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
84
Spann Vineyards 2009 The Classic Four
(Sonoma County). There’s lots of ripe blackberry and cherry flavors in this soft, rather simple blend,
based on the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
84
Volunteer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is rich in black currants
and dark chocolate, with a hefty jacket of smoky oak. It’s
a little one-dimensional, but a pretty good Napa Valley
Cabernet. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $30
83
Field Stone 2008 Wally’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). This is
a raisiny Cabernet, tannic and slightly coarse. Drink it
now with barbecue or beef stews. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
83
Mirassou 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This Cab is pretty thin in flavor,
with some unripeness that gives it a green mintiness.
However, it has a good core of blackberry flavor. Call it
a rustic sipper and drink it now with simple fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Field Stone 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). This overripe Cab tastes
like the essences of currant, raisin and prune. It’s bone
dry and quite tannic. This unbalanced wine is not going
anywhere, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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McManis 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Seemingly sweet in candied raspberry
and cherry, with a strong oak flavor and zesty acidity,
this Cabernet tastes like cough medicine. But it’s drinkable, and the price is O.K. for what you get. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
81
Martin Ranch 2008 J.D. Hurley Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). This
tastes like Port, with raisin, prune and chocolate flavors.
Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
81
Martin Ranch 2008 Therese Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). In this wine, it appears that 2008’s late-season
heat spikes got the best of the grapes. The wine has
raisiny, Port-like aromas and tastes, with bitterness from
shriveled raisin skins. It doesn’t offer much pleasure.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
OTHER RED BLENDS
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Seghesio 2009 San Lorenzo Estate (Alexander Valley). Made from Zinfandel and
Petite Sirah grown in the winery’s estate vineyard, this
is a fabulous wine. It’s high in alcohol and a little hot,
but superbly ripe, offering rich waves of raspberry and
cherry pie filling, red currant, licorice and mocha, with
a sweet-smoke oak flavor. It’s delicious and heady on its
own, but try it with short ribs, pizza or duck breast with
a cherry sauce. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
90
Baiocchi Wines 2009 Entre Nous Grenache-Syrah (Fair Play). Thick and fullbodied with a bright, dark cherry note, this blend of
90% Grenache and 10% Syrah is densely meaty, tasting
of black tea and olive, brooding yet bright and smooth.
—V.B.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $39
90
Foxen 2010 Cuvée Jeanne Marie (Santa Ynez Valley). Made in the accessible style
of a southern Rhône blend, with Grenache, Syrah and
Mourvèdre, this is the most forward of Foxen’s new red
wines. With jammy raspberry and cherry flavors, it’s a
delicious, finely structured wine to drink now. —S.H.
Price: $44
abv: 14.4%
90
La Filice 2009 Convivio (Paso Robles).
This wine is rich and smooth, with flavors of
ripe blackberry, freshly baked pie, spice, bacon and cassis liqueur. High in alcohol, it’s soft, warming and easy to
drink with barbecue. The blend is mostly Petite Sirah,
with one-quarter Syrah. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $25
90
McCay Cellars 2009 Paisley (Lodi). This
juicy and fruity wine is a blend of just slightly
more than half Zinfandel, the rest Petite Sirah. It’s full
of ripe black and red fruit, with structured tannins that
teeter on the edge of being overwhelming—until the
finish gives exactly the right hit of spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
89
Baiocchi Wines 2009 Sprezzatura SyrahGrenache (Fair Play). A juicy Syrah with 10%
Grenache, this wine is as mountainous as the slopes on
which it was grown. The wine shows red and black fruit,
quite ripe, and has enough structure to last for years,
the long finish accented by rich touches of espresso and
dark chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $39
88
Ravenswood 2009 Icon Native Sonoma
Mixed Blocks (Sonoma County). This is a
very rich wine, dense, soft and almost heavy. Comprised
of Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and other undisclosed varieties, its proprietary name refers to the kind
of field-blended red wines made by the Italian-American settlers of old. And indeed, there’s something rustic
but satisfying about this full-bodied, fruity wine. Drink
it now with barbecue or stews. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $75
87
Dalliance 2010 Red (Lake County). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Elyse 2008 C’est Si Bon Naggiar Vineyard (Sierra Foothills). A Grenache-based
Rhône blend, C’est Si Bon is good and very subtle. Like
a Beaujolais, an earthy leather note emerges in between
soft violet and raspberry tones. With a line of acidity, it’s
a fine wine for food. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
87
Fenestra NV True Red Lot 27 (California).
This has soft cherry and raspberry highlights
that are a little too subtle, but overall it is a well-constructed red blend, with body and flavor that will pair
perfectly with midweek meals. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $13
87
Flowers 2010 Perennial (California). This
has to be the only blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah,
Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay produced in California,
and maybe in the world. Dry and tasty as it is, it’s certainly an eccentric wine. It shows plenty of ripe raspberry, red licorice and sweet bacon, yet the acidity is
reminiscent of Champagne. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
83
Cerruti 2009 Baci’s Bin 32 (Napa Valley).
Ripe and forward in blackberry and cherry jam,
this Sangiovese-based blend (with Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot) is a simple wine to drink with burgers.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
82
Chateau St. Jean 2010 Signature Red
Blend (California). Rugged and ripe, with
raspberry candy and green mint flavors. Made from six
varieties, it’s okay for drinking with burgers and such.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $14
82
Cryptic 2010 Red (California). Seemingly
sweet, with Lifesaver cherry and raspberry candy flavors and tart acidity, this simple wine is fine for
everyday meals or parties. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
87
La Filice 2009 Via Della Vigna (Paso Robles). It’s easy to imagine drinking this wine—
and really enjoying it—in Paso Robles with a grilled
steak. It’s rich, heady and ripe in black currants, with a
Port-like, raisiny taste. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 14.7%
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Chatom Vineyards 2009 Cuvee Red (Calaveras County). A blend heavily weighted
toward Merlot and Syrah, with smaller amounts of Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, this red
blend is a nice mix of dry cranberry and raspberry flavors, with dry tannins and a long finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $14
86
Jeff Gordon 2008 Joie de Vivre (Napa
Valley). Jammy and direct in raspberry and
cherry flavors, with lots of sweet smoky oak and some
hot alcohol, this blend is long on flavor, but a little short
on nuance and complexity. Drink it now with robust
grilled meats and stews. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $61
85
Coquelicot 2009 Sixer (Santa Ynez Valley). This is mostly Syrah, with a dash of Viognier blended in. It’s dry, crisp and smooth, with some nice
cherry fruit, but there’s a green vegetal touch. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
Kitchen Sink NV Winemaker’s Reserve
Red (California). Black pepper and acidity,
compounded by a lack of richness, combine to make
this wine scoury. It has flavors of sour cherry candy and
tobacco. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
X 2009 Saved Red (California). This is
a fruit-driven, sharp and Port-like red wine,
blended from Petit Verdot, Malbec, Grenache and
Nebbiolo. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
81
X 2008 Mash (Napa Valley). This is so overripe that it tastes like Port, with raisin and milk
chocolate flavors, and a hot, spicy finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
MALBEC
90
Ancient Peaks 2009 Margarita Vineyard
Malbec (Paso Robles). Malbec is difficult to
make well on its own in California, but Ancient Peaks
keeps trying, with steadily improving results. This ’09
is attractive—mellow and soft, with a generous cherry
flavor balanced by a rich earthiness. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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Rutherford Hill 2009 Barrel Select (Napa
Valley). This wine is sharp and minty, with wintergreen flavors accompanying the riper blackberry and
currant. That tartness gives this blend of Merlot, Syrah
and Cabernet Sauvignon a dry bite. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $28
Field Stone 2009 Convivio (Alexander
Valley). Here’s a red blend to drink with barbecue or with hearty winter stews. It’s a full-bodied,
country-style wine, with plenty of fruit and tannin, and
a touch of chocolate-covered raisin. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $14
84
Lyeth 2011 Fleur de Lyeth (California).
Dry, thin and simple, with a green, minty streak
and lots of acidity. Still, with some decent blackberry
fruit, it’s not a bad wine for the price. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Rutherford Hill 2009 Malbec (Napa Valley). Inky black in color, firm in tannins and
bone dry, this will pair well with char-broiled steak. It’s
immensely rich in blackberry, blueberry and dark chocolate flavors. Courtesy of Napa’s heat, it’s a little soft, so
drink it soon. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
Spann Vineyards 2010 Four Barrels Malbec (Sonoma County). Full of candied flavors of cherry pie and brown-sugar-baked yam, this is
tasty, even if it’s not particularly complex. With a firm
jacket of tannins, it’s made in a country style. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
WineMag.com | 57
MERLOT
87
Darcie Kent Vineyards 2008 Crown Block
Merlot (Livermore Valley). This Merlot features noticeably soft, supple fruit, tasting of red plum
and dark cherry, with mellow, sweet tannin. Still, the
wine has a big presence and a wall of structure around
it, the finish laced with cedar. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
87
Fenestra 2008 Thatcher Bay Merlot
(Livermore Valley). This Merlot begins with
a fragrant cinnamon-spice nose, followed by a healthy
amount of bright red-cherry and plum flavors. It’s lightbodied and satisfying all-around, with a long finish.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
87
Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Merlot
(Santa Clara Valley). This begins like an aged
Merlot, soft in cinnamon spice aromas, then it delves
into the supple dark-plum flavors of a younger-drinking
Merlot. —V.B.
Price: $24
abv: 14.5%
87
Lava Cap 2009 Merlot (El Dorado). This is
unmistakably a mountain-grown Merlot, hefty
with dark fruit and layers of baking spice. Concentrated
and ready to age another 5–7 years, it has a long and
leathery finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $20
86
Merlot (Sonoma County). Flavors of juicy
red and black cherry, licorice, sandalwood and spice
abound in this dry, savory Merlot. It’s easy to drink with
burgers, steaks or lamb. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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84
Mirassou 2010 Merlot (California). This
Merlot is of everyday quality, with an easy-tolike silky texture and soft, almost sweet flavors of cherry,
mocha and spice. It’s not a bad value, and it should be
widely available. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
80
Snapping Turtle 2011 Merlot (California).
This smells and tastes like raspberry bubblegum, with a taste of white sugar. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
PETIT VERDOT
87
Jarvis 2008 Estate Grown Cave Fermented Petit Verdot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $80
86
Concannon 2009 Reserve Petit Verdot
(Livermore Valley). A big but not-too-tannic
Petit Verdot, this is juicy and structured with red fruit
and a light layer of spice. Tending toward black licorice
and dark chocolate, it could use a splash of something
to brighten it up. But it’s otherwise a bottle worth trying if you’re curious to try a varietal Petit Verdot. —V.B.
Price: $30
abv: 14.8%
86
Spann Vineyards 2009 Two Barrels Petit Verdot (Sonoma County). Although this
is seemingly sweet and a bit one-dimensional, it’s tasty,
with candied blackberry and plum flavors. Try it with
something savory and spicy, like carne asada. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
83
Ancient Peaks 2009 Margarita Vineyard
Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). There’s an overripe taste to this wine, suggesting raisin and prune, and
it has high alcohol. Although it’s dry and rich in tannins and oak, its rustic quality makes it difficult to enjoy. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $35
coming rounded out with notes of violet and oaky leather. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
85
Sobriquet Winery 2010 Sandoval Vineyard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Rich
raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors characterize this
Grenache, but the mouthfeel is off-balance, with its acids and green tannins sticking out. This exposes the difficulties of making great Grenache in California, even in
the Santa Ynez Valley. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $33
MOURVÈDRE
92
Andis Wines 2010 Mourvèdre (Amador
County). This seductive, beautiful Mourvèdre
includes 22% Syrah, showing big berry fruit and an irresistable earthy, smoky quality wrapped around notes
of leather and meat. This is a testament to Amador’s
increasing quality, and Andis is a producer to watch.
—V.B.
Price: $24
abv: 13.9%
88
Holly’s Hill 2010 Estate Mourvèdre (El
Dorado). Holly’s Hill Mourvèdre opens with a
gigantic waft of black pepper, followed by intense fruit
flavors of cherry and dried plum. Medium bodied and
light on the finish, this earthy wine also gives off a hint
of cured meats, with which it would pair nicely. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
88
Terre Rouge 2009 Mourvèdre (Sierra
Foothills). Bill Easton’s Mourvèdre features a
combination of bright, ripe strawberry and savory herbal tea. It is medium bodied, with a distinctly peppery
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Buena Vista 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County). This Merlot is soft, simple and seemingly
sweet in fruit and oak. With ripe cherry, mocha and
spice flavors, it will partner well with a cheeseburger.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
GRENACHE
Spann Vineyards 2009 Mourvèdre (California). Soft and candied, this has flavors of
cherry jelly, gummy bear, plum, licorice, sandalwood
and pepper. This is a dry wine that will please lovers of
sweet wine. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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SYRAH
Dante 2010 Reserve Merlot (California).
This may be a little soft and simple, but overall it is a tasty Merlot that’s rich in milk chocolate and
cherry jam, with a touch of smoky oak. Drink it at a party. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Noble Vines 2010 181-Merlot Merlot
(Lodi). A large-production wine that’s simple
and straightforward in its dark cherry flavor and soft
texture, this wine is a crowd-pleaser. It finishes quick
but satisfying. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
85
Spellbound 2010 Merlot (California). Using grapes sourced primarily from Lodi, this
Merlot is oaky and smoky, expressing an aroma of
cooked black olive. It also features a subtle and toasty
berry cobbler flavor, and the finish is all cedar and caramel. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Casey Flat Ranch 2010 Grenache (Capay Valley). With only one barrel made, Casey
Flat’s Grenache is still at the experimental level, but this
vintage shows its potential: full and dense, with ripe
strawberry, rich leather, smoky black tar and a smidge
of black licorice. Give it 3–5 years to further complicate
those flavors and open up. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $35
89
Holly’s Hill 2010 Estate Grenache (El Dorado). This lovely Grenache Noir has flavors of
black tea and black pepper, softened by layers of fruit
and smoky black licorice. Big, black and intense, give it
another 3–5 years to mellow out. It will surely retain its
gorgeous herbal and savory elements. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $20
88
Naggiar 2009 Estate Grenache (Sierra
Foothills). Perfumed, floral and intriguing,
this is still tight with mountain tannins. In a few years,
its thick black-cherry and pepper tones will emerge, be-
85
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Foxen 2010 Williamson-Doré Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). It’s hard to imagine a Syrah more attractive than this. In addition to the
wealth of raspberry and red currant flavors and the wonderfully sweet new oak, it is extremely well balanced.
The tannins are luxurious, the acid crisp and fine, the
complexity a delight and the finish dry and long. This
full-bodied selection offers refinement and intellectual
appeal. Drink now–2016 for freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $46
94
Foxen 2010 Tinaquaic Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Maria Valley). An especially chilly vintage in the always-cool Santa Maria Valley has resulted
in an intense, young Syrah that is dry, tannic and dramatic. Despite its tightness, the flavors of cherry jam,
bacon, cola and black pepper explode deliciously. Extremely low yields in the vineyard give this Syrah a den-
sity that will allow it to age for 6–8 years, though with
decanting, it’s fine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $46
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Foxen 2010 Toasted Rope Syrah (Santa
Ynez Valley). Do not pop the cork and drink
this right away as it’s currently tight and tannic. But as
it warms up and breathes, it releases its considerable
charms. With 16% Viognier blended in, it’s fantastically
rich and concentrated in black-pepper-accented raspberry and sweet-smoke flavors. Acidity adds balance to
the richness. You can enjoy this wine now, after an hour
in the decanter, or cellar it for at least six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
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climate character in this vital, young Syrah. It’s rich in
flavors of freshly crushed black pepper, blackberry jam
and bacon, with a smooth, velvety mouthfeel. It’s a little
light in texture, so drink it now with steak. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
88
Olabisi 2007 King Vineyard Syrah (Suisun Valley). Thick and meaty, this Syrah has
an unusual-but-welcome aroma of marshmallow, surrounded by notes of dark plum, black currant and a
streak of dark chocolate. With a long, lingering and rich
finish, this will be great to drink in the winter months.
—V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
86
Stark 2009 Cuvee Julian, Stoney Creek
Vineyard Syrah (Fair Play). This Syrah, with
3% Viognier, exhibits pretty cherry and raspberry tones,
with a lingering touch of orange peel. It is concentrated,
with a silky texture, mellow tannins and a meaty backbone. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2009 Wetzel
Family Estate Syrah (Alexander Valley).
There’s a soft, candied appeal to the cherry, strawberry
and blackberry flavors in this dry, young wine. With a
sweet oak jacket, it’s clean and pleasant to drink now.
—S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 14%
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Dutton Estate 2010 My Father’s Vineyard
- Dutton Ranch Syrah (Russian River Valley). Deliciously drinkable now, this has soft, pliant tannins and a melting mouthfeel framing complex flavors
of black cherry and raspberry, grilled Canadian bacon,
black pepper and sandalwood. It’s thoroughly dry, and
its gamy quality makes it an especially good companion
for lamb dishes. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $40
89
Fenestra 2008 Estate Syrah (Livermore
Valley). Here, Fenestra has made a red-fruitforward, plummy, full, round, juicy Syrah, with good
structure and a pleasing taste of tea biscuit on the finish.
Ready to drink now, it’s best paired with roasted chicken. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
89
Les Caves Roties de Pente 2009 Bells
Echo Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino County). This Mendocino Syrah is concentrated, rich and savory, full of big dark-plum and blackberry flavors. The
meat and white pepper notes go down smooth on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
89
Novy 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). While
this Syrah is a bit angular now, it does offer great
structure, with a fine architecture of tannin and acid.
There are licks of Tabasco and black pepper that make
the black and red currant flavors bracing. It becomes
more interesting as it warms in the glass. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $19
89
Sobriquet Winery 2010 Saarloos Vineyard Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). This is
beautifully rich, exploding in flavors of dark chocolate,
blackberry purée, pepper, anise and smoky sandalwood.
Yet it’s balanced and refined, and it never loses its sense
of style. It is, however, a little warm in alcohol, but if
that doesn’t bother you, you’ll love it. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
88
Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Syrah (Russian River Valley). There’s plenty of cool-
Martin Ranch 2009 Therese Vineyards
Lester Family Vineyards Syrah (Santa
Cruz Mountains). The texture on this Syrah is a little
rough, with edgy tannins accentuating its sharpness. It’s
robust and sweet in blackberry jam and black pepper
flavors, with a hint of teriyaki beef. Drink this rustic offering now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
84
Matchbook 2009 Syrah (Dunnigan Hills).
This Syrah, blended with 9% Cabernet, tastes
of dark fruit, tobacco and leather. But there’s an odd
aroma lurking in the wine’s background that’s hard to
pinpoint and not entirely pleasant. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $16
82
Syrah (California). A harsh wine, with cutting
acids and a thin flavor of raspberry candy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
PETITE SIRAH
90
La Filice 2009 Shell Creek Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). This wine scores
high on the deliciousness factor, offering ripe, lush flavors of blackberry and blueberry jam, dark chocolate,
cedar and baking spice. With fairly high alcohol, it
warms the blood and has a nice headiness. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
88
Ancient Peaks 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso
Robles). Ripe and seemingly sweet fruit, oak
and spice characterize this rich, delicious Petite Sirah.
It shows the variety’s strong tannins, but here they’re
soft and melted. The flavors include blackberry jam and
mocha. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
87
Dunning Vineyards 2010 Reserve Petite
Sirah (Paso Robles). Rich, thick and heady,
this almost tastes like a dessert wine. It shows notes of
dark chocolate, blackberry pie with a buttery crust and
heady crème de cassis. The alcohol is very high, as is often the case with Petite Sirahs grown in warm climates.
—S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
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McManis 2011 Petite Sirah (California).
There’s lots to like in this soft, simple Petite
Sirah. It shows the variety’s full-bodied tannins, and its
flavors of blackberry and cherry jam are ripe and juicy.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
ZINFANDEL
94
Bella 2009 Barrel 32 Zinfandel (Sonoma
County). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
93
Bella 2009 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). For full review see page
5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
92
Bella 2009 Big River Ranch Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $38
91
Hunnicutt 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Valley).
Blended with a drop of Petite Sirah, this powerful Zin offers blasts of ripe, freshly picked summer
blackberries. With notes of pie spice, sweet oak and liqueur-like alcohol, this calls for ribs and chicken in a
slightly sweet barbeque sauce. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $38
91
Macauley 2009 Old Vines Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). Extraordinarily rich and heady,
this has gigantic cherry and raspberry jam flavors. So
sweet and pure, it tastes like the essence of Zinfandel,
but at the last moment acidity and tannins emerge,
bringing necessary structure. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
91
Ravenswood 2009 Belloni Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley). Lusty and potent,
this has a wild quality to it. The flavors are of red and
black berries, some freshly picked, some dried and
overripe, with hints of pepper and anise. The brawny,
briary, brambly quality expresses Sonoma County’s oldvine Zin in all its glory. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
90
Dashe Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). This epitomizes Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. It’s dry, briary and brambly, with wild berry, cola
and crisped bacon flavors. It’s incredibly spicy, offering
everything from black and white pepper to nutmeg, anise and clove. The texture is a delight—silky and gently tannic. While the official alcohol is 13.7%, it tastes
warmer. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $24
90
Dashe Cellars 2010 Florence Vineyard
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Similar to the
2009 vintage, which was another cool year, this singlevineyard offering is bone dry and strong in tannins, with
a complex austerity. It shows tobacco, balsam and tamWineMag.com | 59
ari notes alongside hints of raspberry and blackberry. It
needs rich, complex meat stews or pasta dishes with tomato, garlic and lots of cheese in order to balance the
wine’s tannins and acids, and to coax out the sweetness.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
90
McCay Cellars 2009 Jupiter Zinfandel
(Lodi). Deliciously round and spicy, this has attractive berry flavors wrapped around a hint of roasted
coffee bean. A masculine, intense and layered wine, it
has balanced acidity that makes its flavors pop. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $28
90
Ravenswood 2009 Barricia Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). There’s bracing heat in this Zin
that’s blended with 20% Petite Sirah. The heat comes
partly from the high alcohol, partly from the notes of
crushed white and black peppercorns, partly from the
charred new oak and partly from the baked quality that
marks the blackberry note. Everything about this lusty,
delicious wine begs for grilled and roasted meats and
poultry—especially game birds. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 14.9%
90
Ravenswood 2009 Dickerson Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). This is a strong Zinfandel. It
takes over the mouth with a blast of ripe blackberry,
cherry, anise, chocolate and spice. What it lacks in subtlety it more than makes up for in sheer power. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
90
Ravenswood 2009 Teldeschi Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). This is a big, strong Zinfandel, packing a real punch in terms of flavor. It brings
blasts of ripe summer blackberry and cherry, with notes
of anise, nettle, chamomile, white pepper and briar.
Carignane and Petite Sirah round out this complex,
delicious blend, which is fully ready to drink now with
game, rich stews or easy backyard barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
90
Tyler Florence 2008 TF Zin Hoodoo
Creek VIneyard Zinfandel (Lake County).
Decadently jammed with aromas and flavors of dark
plum, blackberry and chocolate, this has subtle layers of
black licorice and brawny leather. With small amounts
of Syrah and Petit Verdot, this powerhouse gets better
in the glass. Chef-turned-vintner Tyler Florence suggests pairing it with osso bucco. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
89
Andis Wines 2010 Primitivo (Amador
County). This robust and classically rustic
Primitivo tastes of dark cherry and just-picked brambly
blackberry. A balanced mountain-grown wine, it has a
wall of spice around its core, with elements of cinnamon and pepper, finished off by a refreshing twist of
mint. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
89
Bella 2009 Belle Canyon Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). This is almost always a rewarding Zinfandel from Bella. The ’09 offers flavors of spicy,
briary raspberry and cherry fruit, cola, sweet herb and
mocha, with a dry, classic finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
89
Ulises Valdez 2009 Lancel Creek Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley).
With a rich spiciness and flavors of wild berry and currant, this is an excellent example of Sonoma County
Zinfandel. It’s robust and potent in alcohol, showing the
variety’s rustic nature at its best. It will partner well with
stews and barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $38
89
Ulises Valdez 2009 Quinn Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Exotic Indian
spices and very ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors
characterize this rich, heady wine. It’s so fruity that it
tastes sweet, but it’s actually dry, with a long, delicious
finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
88
Dashe Cellars 2009 Louvau Vineyard
Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).
Dashe always produces dependably good Zinfandels
from this vineyard. The 2009 shows real complexity,
with an earthy, mushroomy richness alongside the raspberry, red currant and spice flavors. It’s very dry, with a
fine structure of acid and tannins. Marked by the rusticity that characterizes Dry Creek Zinfandels. It calls
for pairing with rich stews, braised meats and barbecue. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 14.6%
88
Graziano 2009 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). This is a Claret-like Zinfandel, mellow and simply rendered, with layers of dark cherry,
blackberry and lilting spiciness. This would be spectacular with lighter fare like barbecued chicken or grilled
turkey burgers. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
88
Hendry 2010 Blocks 7 & 22 Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). This wine marries Napa Valley’s elegant tannin structure with Zin’s naturally briary
rusticity, with good results. The flavors abound in wild
berry, currant, tobacco, cola, tabasco and exotic spice. It
will be great with grilled beef. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
88
McCay Cellars 2009 Truluck’s Zinfandel
(Lodi). Winemaker Michael McCay is an expert at coaxing fine texture out of a big wine. This is a
round, soft Zinfandel with bright, vibrant raspberry and
blackberry flavors. It may need more time in bottle to
reveal its entire personality. In the meantime, enjoy its
leather and licorice streaks. —V.B.
Price: $32
abv: 14.6%
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Novy 2010 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). This trattoria-style wine shows plenty of
easy charm. It’s light bodied and pleasantly tart, with
flavors of sour cherry candy, cola and spice, and a dry,
clean finish. It’s perfect for pasta dishes with red sauce
and pizza, but avoid rich stews that will overwhelm it.
—S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $19
88
Ravenswood 2009 Big River Zinfandel
(Alexander Valley). With flavors of wild
blackberry and cherry, pepper, cinnamon, currant and
heady cassis, this is a classic example of warm-climate
Zin. It’s high in alcohol and a little soft, but it is delicious. Serve it at a barbeque with burgers, ribs, chops,
chicken and sausages. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 15%
88
Ravenswood 2009 Old Hill Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This is rich and spicy, with the
briary, brambly tastes of ripe blackberry and blueberry.
It’s high in alcohol, which gives it a slight burn. Enjoy it
with robust Italian pasta and pizza dishes. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
87
Bella Piazza 2008 Esola Vineyard Old
Vine Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). Super dusty, leathery and big shouldered, this is also quite
bright and drinkable. Made using grapes sourced from
old vines planted within the Esola Vineyard. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Di Arie 2009 Break Away Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills). Dense, layered and juicy, this
has a good concentration of bright blackberry flavor.
The small amounts of Primitivo and Barbera are subtly
apparent. With a snap of chocolate on the finish, it’s well
rounded. —V.B.
Price: $18
abv: 14.3%
87
Four Vines 2010 The Sophisticate Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This is robust, jammy
and tart, with blackberry jam and root beer flavors, finished with swirls of melted dark chocolate and pepper.
It tastes like classic Zinfandel, with a lush finish. It’s a
natural choice for barbecue and meat stews. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Grgich Hills 2009 Estate Grown Zinfandel
(Napa Valley). From a winery better known
for Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a fairly standard Zinfandel, with generous berry, tobacco, sandalwood and
spice flavors. It does have lovely balance and the precision typical of Napa Valley. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $35
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Lava Cap 2009 Reserve Zinfandel (El Dorado). This intoxicatingly interesting wine is
full of rich dark-berry flavors, with streaks of leather and
roasted coffee. —V.B.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $24
87
V. Sattui 2009 Pilgrim Vineyard Zinfandel
(Lodi). This big, blackberry-infused Zinfandel
has plenty of leather, roasted coffee, licorice and tobacco notes coming through. It’s medium-bodied and complex, with an herbal hint on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $37
87
Zinfandelic 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Amador County). For full review see page
12.
abv: 14.5%
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Price: $19
Jason-Stephens 2008 Estate Zinfandel
(Santa Clara Valley). Rich and ripe, this is
an intense and decadent Zinfandel, with highlights of
blackberry jam and milk chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $28
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Roadhouse Winery 2010 Zinfandel (Dry
Creek Valley). This may be a little sweet, hot
and heavy, but it has such rich flavors of berry, currant,
spice and mocha that it’s easy to drink with ribs, chicken, burgers or vegetarian lasagna. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
Domenico 2007 Primitivo (Amador County). Thick and heavy, this is Port-like in its toffee and raisin aromas, with a trace of licorice in the
background. Its syrupy consistency almost expresses an
air of oxidation. —V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $30
85
Bella Piazza 2009 Sleeper Vineyard, Old
Vine Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). This
thick, dusty and leathery Foothills Zinfandel is ready to
drink now with bold, meaty foods. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Dunning Vineyards 2010 Reserve Zinfandel (Paso Robles). High alcohol and very
ripe fruit combine to make this reminiscent of Port. It
tastes of black currant and blackberry jam, with a hint
of raisin. Although it won’t please everyone, it is a good
example of its warm-climate style. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $38
85
Jacuzzi 2010 Primitivo (Lake County).
This tastes of brash dark fruit, sage and coffee.
It will appeal to lovers of big wine and pair expertly with
pizza—especially with meaty toppings. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $16
85
Mettler Family Vineyards 2009 Epicenter,
Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Estate-grown
from one of the family’s oldest Zin blocks, this wine is
hugely toasty and oaky, with hits of bacon and dark coffee overshadowing an underlying layer of blackberry flavor. —V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $20
Q 2011 Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This
is tart in acidity and tastes of raspberry jam, with
a bubblegum-gassiness reminiscent of Beaujolais. It’s
easy and refreshing. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
Gen5 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi).
This old-vine Zinfandel with a dusting of Petite
Sirah and Tannat in the blend is stewy, soft and fairly
simple. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $14
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Four Vines 2010 Maverick Zinfandel
(Amador County). This straightforward
mountain Zinfandel has big dark-fruit notes and a
cherry-syrup finish, with textures of leather and tobacco. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $19
84
Villa Toscano 2009 Centurion, Old Vine
Zinfandel (Shenandoah Valley). With its
dusty, leathery components that are wrapped in sweet
tannins this tastes typical. However, it’s a little austere in
terms of fruit. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
Naggiar 2010 Estate Grown Sangiovese
(Sierra Foothills). A classic Old World-style
Sangiovese, this is boldly tannic and resplendent with
notes of sage, leather, coffee and bittersweet chocolate,
and traces of oak, cherry syrup and vanilla. It would pair
expertly with a meaty pizza. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $21
BARBERA
87
Sorelle Winery 2010 Bellezza Fra Barbera (Lodi). This Barbera is leathery and rustic, expressing a taste of the Old World with its juicy
dark-plum flavor and roasted, toasted accents. It’s
slightly reminiscent of cured meats and salami, and both
would make good pairings. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $25
85
Four Vines 2010 Biker Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). This is soft, syrupy and seemingly
sweet, with blackberry and dark chocolate notes. Its
high alcohol gives it a headiness, but it represents the
Paso Robles style. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Sorelle Winery 2010 Troppo Bella Sangiovese (Lodi). Open this wine and you’ll feel
as though you’ve stepped into an Italian deli—so finely
has it captured the smell of cured meats. The back layers feature cherry and herb, the finish a burst of roasted,
toasted oak. This is a great wine to pair with a range of
Italian-inspired meals. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
OTHER RED WINES
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Sorelle Winery 2010 Sorriso Primitivo
(Lodi). Austere and tannic, this savory Primitivo tastes of black cherry and blackberry, with leather
overtones. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $22
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Baron Herzog 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). The berry flavors in this wine are fighting to emerge, but they are overwhelmed by dusty tannins and a lack of texture. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
85
Redemption 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). This is ripe and spicy, with plenty of
blackberry and blueberry flavors. Although it’s a little
lighter on the palate than expected, it’s fine for barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $22
of acidity and core flavor of dark dried cherry. Pair this
juicy and easy-to-drink selection with pizza, pasta, a
burger or cured meats. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
Bella Piazza 2009 Barbera (Shenandoah
Valley). Subdued on the nose, this has a good
concentration of fruit and a strong structure, buoyed by
firm acidity. The finish is long and lingering. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $22
Di Arie 2008 Barbera (Sierra Foothills).
Soft and round, with an explosive burst of candied fruit on the palate, this Barbera has concentrated
flavors of dried cherry, plum and milk chocolate, the latter of which pops on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
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Villa Toscano 2010 Barbera (Shenandoah Valley). This has dark, hearty fruit that
is framed mostly around a taste of dried cherry. It’s a
bit one-dimensional, finishing with a burst of leather.
—V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $22
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Jacuzzi 2010 Barbera (Mendocino County). From a vineyard west of Ukiah, Jacuzzi
Family’s Barbera seems tartly sweet, akin to raspberry
syrup laced with vanilla. Soft and round, it has a finish
like that of an aged Port. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
SANGIOVESE
88
Monte Volpe 2009 Sangiovese (Mendocino County). A gorgeous Mendocino County
example of Sangiovese, this is fine in its tight baseline
Horse & Plow 2010 Testa Vineyard Old
Vine Carignane (Mendocino). Opening with a nose of sweet roses, it then deepens in texture and taste, with notes of light spice, earthy soil and
mushroom. It’s a fine rendering of old-vine fruit from
Testa Vineyards, where the certified-organic vines date
back to 1912. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
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Michael David 2010 Bechthold Vineyard
Ancient Vine Cinsault (Lodi). This marks a
real departure for Michael David, a producer that tends
to make its wines big and bold. This soft, hardly oaked,
lightly tannic Cinsault is from a very special old vineyard. With a smooth texture and a core of red cherry
and cranberry flavors, it is light-bodied and very floral.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
87
Bella
Piazza
2009
Montepulciano
(Shenandoah Valley). This roasted and rustically pleasing Montepulciano, which is hard to find in
California, has dry tannins, a layer of boysenberry and a
leathery mouthfeel. Pair it with roasted chicken or rich
risotto. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $24
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Chatom Vineyards 2009 Touriga Nacional (Calaveras County). A juicy Touriga with
nice structure and acidity, it bursts with notes of strawberry, cherry and vanilla spice, especially on the finish.
A perfect pizza wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Domenico 2006 Aglianico (Amador
County). This Amador Aglianico tastes of intense black cherry and dusty coffee. It exhibits all the
qualities of a mature wine, with firm, dry tannins and
flavors of black olive and pepper, especially on the finish. Pair it with heavy, meaty dishes cooked with vegetables. —V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $30
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Fenestra 2009 Silvaspoons Vineyard
Touriga Nacional (Lodi). A wine with a soft
mouthfeel and clean finish, this takes time to open up.
Once it does, the flavors are a swirl of sweet strawberry
and roses. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
DESSERT WINES
87
SIP 2011 Moscato (California). For full review see page 12. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
84
Barefoot NV Sweet Red (California). A
very sweet red blend, this has easy-to-like raspberry and vanilla flavors. Give it a slight chill and drink
it with ham sandwiches. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 11%
Price: $7
84
Dashe Cellars 2009 Late Harvest Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This dessert wine is
quite sweet, with a taste of caramelized brown sugar,
but the raspberry and cherry flavors are disappointingly
thin. —S.H.
Price: $24/375 ml
abv: 14.1%
OREGON
CHARDONNAY
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Evening Land 2010 Summum Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). This sets a high standard for Oregon Chardonnay. Bright and snappy, yet
deep and concentrated, it’s a symphony of lemon, citrus,
stone and tropical fruits, well-differentiated yet perfectly integrated. The extraordinary length and precise focus, along with the overall balance and structure, suggest that this should improve for many years to come.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $90
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Evening Land 2010 La Source Chardonnay (Eola-Amity Hills). Gorgeously ripe fruit
packs this wine with tropical flavors of cantaloupe, apricot and papaya. Lemony acid keeps it fresh and vibrant,
and the overall texture and complexity are a revelation.
Both of Evening Land’s Chardonnays elevate the grape
to new heights in this part of the Willamette Valley. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $60
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Seven of Hearts 2010 Mahonia Vineyard
Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This single-vineyard offering is almost transparent. Thin fruit
runs quickly into a buttery finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $28
PINOT GRIS
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Acrobat 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). This
runs to the tart, lemony style of Pinot Gris, common in cool vintages. Citrus and gooseberry flavors are
balanced against refreshing minerality, and the acidity is
neither harsh nor simply sour. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Seven of Hearts 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Flavors of fresh apple and pear appear
among light dusting of cinnamon spice. This makes for
a wonderful quaffer. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
86
Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Barrel
Fermented Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Soft and lightly oaky, this barrel-fermented wine
has a lightly honeyed element, perhaps an indication of
botrytis. The wine should be consumed young, as it is
already showing signs of age in both color and mouthfeel. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $21
85
Benton-Lane 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). A light lime flavor comes with a pleasing hint of tangerine in this wine. It becomes quite
slender as it rapidly runs into a slightly metallic finish.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
RIESLING
94
Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate
Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see
page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $24
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Trisaetum 2011 Estates Reserve Riesling
(Willamette Valley). This wine represents the
winemaker’s choice of the best barrels from the two estate vineyards. It offers a full spectrum of fruits, from
citrus to stone to light tropical, with a grapefruit note
dominating. Round and fruity, it remains crisp and even
a bit tart, despite the residual sugar. —P.G.
abv: 10%
Price: $32
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nice flower notes highlight the aromas, with flavors of
tart peach and citrus filling in the rest. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $25
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Hyland 2010 Riesling (McMinnville). This
is crisp and refreshing, although it shows little
of the complex aromatics that some Rieslings obtain.
Scents and flavors of green apples and white peaches
carry through onto the modest finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $25
OTHER WHITE WINES
91
Cowhorn 2011 Spiral 36 (Applegate Valley). A blend of biodynamically-farmed Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, this is fragrant and floral, with richness on both the nose and the palate. Lush
aromas of citrus and peach roll into bracing, concentrated fruit flavors, with good grip, natural acidity and
excellent length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $28
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Hyland 2011 Gewürztraminer (McMinnville). Quite dry and reaching just 12% alcohol, this smells of rose petal and lychee fruit. It’s delicate
and floral, showing dashes of lemon rind and mineral on
the finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $25
ROSÉ
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Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Rosé
(Willamette Valley). This is a simple rosé
that could withstand some concentration. It was crafted from barrel-fermented Pinot Noir, and it shows very
light flavors of watermelon and strawberry. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $15
Trisaetum 2011 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry
Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Gorgeous minerality is the underpinning of this estate bottling. Heaps of
dry extract amplify racy lemon and lime flavors. Despite
its low alcohol, this wine has exceptional concentration
and power. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $24
Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity
Hills). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $60
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Trisaetum 2011 Coast Range Estate Riesling (Yamhill-Carlton District). Packed with
juicy fruit flavors that recall a tart lemon drop or limoncello cocktail, this low-alcohol beauty retains its powerful acidity even as a dollop of residual sugar softens it.
It’s full and round, with both power and precision. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $24
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Trisaetum 2011 Coast Range Estate Dry
Riesling (Yamhill-Carlton District). The
fruit explodes into the mouth with snap and tang; it’s
a rich riot of citrus, orange peel and crisp green apple.
The wine is full-bodied and luscious, despite the low
alcohol. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $24
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Hyland 2011 Riesling (McMinnville).
There seems to be a bit of residual sugar in this
wine, just enough to offset the searing acidity. Some
PINOT NOIR
95
Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). For full
abv: 13.3%
Price: $45
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Le Cadeau 2010 Diversité Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). For full review see page
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
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Adelsheim 2010 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The winery
identifies this as “the best barrels from our best lots.”
Supple and streaked with chocolate and caramel, this
explosion of cherry, cassis, cola and Dr. Pepper contains sneaky notes of tobacco and pepper threaded
through the lingering finish. Richness and depth prevail
throughout. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $55
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Le Cadeau 2010 Équinoxe Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). For full review see page
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
up with a pumpkin pie accent. Round, rich and full, yet
moderate in alcohol, this is a fine expression of Oregon
Pinot Noir in a challenging vintage. —P.G.
Price: $70
abv: 13.2%
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Trisaetum 2010 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see
page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
Patton Valley 2010 West Block Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). All the 2010 Patton Valley Pinots are significantly lower in alcohol than the previous vintage, and it works to their advantage. Nuanced
fruit flavors include rhubarb and tart cherry, with veins
of cola and dark chocolate adding further complexity. Its
length is excellent. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $48
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Le Cadeau 2009 Côte Est Reserve Pinot
Noir (Oregon). For full review see page 6.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
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Adelsheim 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Even at $32, this remains one of Oregon’s best-value Pinot Noirs. This 2010 offering is
racy and refined. Tangy raspberry fruit accompanies a
luscious streak of smooth, dark chocolate. The espresso-drenched finish is a finely tuned detail. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $32
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Adelsheim 2010 Quarter Mile Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains).
Using grapes sourced from estate vines planted in 1972,
this wine is comparable, in its subtlety and delicate elegance, to an old-vine Zinfandel. Strawberry and spice
run through the core, with brambly highlights and excellent balance. The wine is still a bit closed, so give it a
good decanting, or leave it alone for a few more years.
—P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $105
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Adelsheim 2010 Winderlea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The Winderlea is
perhaps the most unique in terms of style and flavor
among all the 2010 Adelsheim single-vineyard Pinots.
Its distinctive minerality accompanies tart cranberry
and cherry notes, citrusy acidity with a splash of grapefruit flavor, and a finish that tastes of coffee and tea.
Complex and long, this is a wine that will surely spark
some heated discussion. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $105
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Evening Land 2010 Seven Springs Vineyard Red Queen Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity
Hills). The Red Queen bottling is Evening Land’s most
limited in terms of production. The grapes are sourced
from a block in the estate vineyard at the highest point
of the hill, and the wine is aged in 30% new French oak
for 14 months. Tasted a few weeks prior to its official
release, it was stubbornly unyielding, even after a full 24
hours. Given the pedigree of this estate, and the superb
quality of the two other 2010 Pinots, it is reasonable to
expect this to come out of its hard shell and earn a much
higher score. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
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Le Cadeau 2010 Côte Est Pinot Noir (Oregon). For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
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Patton Valley 2010 Lorna Marie Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). The Lorna Marie
is the winery’s reserve, and it has exceptional concentration and depth. Berry and cherry dominate, spiced
Trisaetum 2010 Coast Range Estate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Notes
of cola, earth, sassafras and spicy berry bring a textural,
diverse set of flavors to this mellow Pinot Noir. With a
hint of dried herb, it shows fine balance and impressive
complexity. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $55
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Adelsheim 2010 Boulder Bluff Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This
well-defined, single-vineyard offering has bright, tight,
and focused raspberry and cherry flavors in abundance.
The sharp acidity and highlight of fresh herb speak to
the distinctiveness of the vineyard. This wine will benefit from additional bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $68
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Adelsheim 2010 Calkins Lane Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This
compensates for having less alchol than its previous vintage with added complexity. A mélange of cranberry,
black cherry and bright spice, this feels full and round
in the mouth, with excellent concentration. Details of
spice and coffee linger through the palate and onto a
cleansing finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $68
91
Trisaetum 2010 Estates Reserve Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Several hours passed
before the bottling aromas blew off and this wine began
to show its fruit. By then it tasted of pretty strawberry
and cherry, with herb and earth notes running into the
finish. As a reserve, it seems surprisingly lighter than the
regular bottlings of the two component wines from the
same vintage. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $75
90
Adelsheim 2010 Ribbon Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The flavors of this wine play out broadly across the palate: a
blend of strawberry, mocha and moist earth, with a
highlight of tea tannin on the finish. There is generous
acidity and excellent balance, as with all of the 2010 single-vineyard offerings from Adelsheim. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $68
90
Patton Valley 2010 10 Acre Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Sourced from the oldest
block of the estate vineyard, this is a soft, almost buttery
wine initially. In the mouth, some spicy tannins kick in,
while the core flavors remain brightly fruity and lightly
dusted with chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $48
89
Hyland 2010 Pinot Noir (McMinnville).
A tart and brambly Pinot, this old-vine bottling is accented by whiffs of herb and grain. Raspberry
and strawberry are the fruit flavors, carrying the wine
through an elegant, medium-long finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $35
89
Le Cadeau 2010 Rocheux Pinot Noir (Oregon). This low-alcohol charmer has sweet
scents of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. It has a nice
mouthfeel, with just a lick of minerality running through
it, elevating the wine beyond mere fruitiness. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
91
Adelsheim 2010 Zenith Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The aroma sends
up hints of Bourbon-soaked raisins, leading onto a
soft, smooth, and very pretty palate. There’s plenty of
raspberry flavor, and a suggestion of thick, dark balsamic vinegar on the finish. A dash of nutmeg, from 10
months in one-third new French oak, is the icing on the
cake. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
89
91
Aubichon Cellars 2010 Reserve Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). The lovely, lush
aromas on the nose include red fruit, cocoa and caramel, with a splash of nectarine as well. The wild cherry
core carries extra complexity, and the moderate alcohol
keeps the wine elegant through its finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $45
88
Aubichon Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Aubichon’s Willamette Valley
bottling enters softly with a mix of rhubarb and cherry, with tart lemony acids. It’s approachable and nicely
styled, ready to drink immediately, with enough acidity
to pair with rich sauces. Just a hint of chocolate winds
through the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $35
91
88
Patton Valley 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This producer gains polish
and precision with each new vintage. The entry-level
estate bottling is a pretty, elegant wine. It offers sweet
berry and cocoa flavors; it’s clean, pure, crisply-defined
and long lasting. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $38
The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Young Pinot Noir from Eyrie can seem light, tart and markedly herbal. Decant it,
swirl it, or—better yet—age it, and the nuances turn
into discreet flavors that bring complexity and character. Tight and earthy, this is dotted with notes of spicy,
peppery herbs. The concentration and balance suggest
a long life ahead. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Lenné Estate 2010 Jill’s 115 Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). This pleasing effort is light but interesting. It first introduces flavors of
strawberry and rhubarb, with a dash of pepper. A whiff
of root vegetables does not interfere with the overall enjoyment, and a lick of chocolate lifts the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
WineMag.com | 63
88
Swiftwater Cellars 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Consulting winemaker Tony
Rynders was at Oregon’s Domaine Serene for a number
of years. This is forward and fruity, with a chocolaty base
and just a hint of alcoholic heat. Drink this one while it’s
young. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
87
Seven of Hearts 2010 Special Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is an
earthy Pinot, showing layers of leaf, stem and clay. A
tart cranberry flavor balances out the core, with drying
tannins through the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
87
TeBri Vineyards 2009 Select Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). The Select bottling,
which appears to be TeBri’s reserve, shows medium
concentration, with strawberry and cherry flavors. Cola,
earth, caramel and chocolate notes come together on
the pretty finish. —P.G.
Price: $36
abv: 13.9%
86
Benton-Lane 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A pretty, inviting nose suggests sweet cherry and cherry blossom. On the lightbodied palate, the wine shows earthiness. It’s pleasant
and just right for near-term enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
83
TeBri Vineyards 2009 Estate Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). High toned and sharp
edged, this should probably be consumed quickly.
Scents of petrol run into a barely-ripe flavor of rhubarb.
—P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
OTHER RED WINES
88
Pheasant Valley Winery 2009 Chukar
Ridge Tempranillo (Columbia Valley).
Chewy tannins give this wine a rustic edge, but the
black cherry fruit and notes of fresh-cut tobacco are authentic to the variety. The finish is mouth-drying, which
would make it just right with a fat cut of beef. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
87
Cowhorn 2010 Grenache 58 Grenache
(Applegate Valley). This is a pure Grenache,
tart and spicy, with powerful herb components. It is not
fruity or sappy-sweet by any measure, but it delivers
moderately concentrated flavors highlighted by herb
and earth notes, with good length and balance. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30
87
Pheasant Valley Winery 2009 Primitivo
(Columbia Valley). Rustic and full bodied,
this Oregon Primitivo is plenty ripe, yet it retains nuances of olive and herb, along with thick red fruit. A
whisper of smoke weaves through the finish. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
85
Methven Family Vineyards 2011 Gamay
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Fragrant, with a
grapy appeal, this pure Gamay Noir comes on like a
fresh Beaujolais. The cherry candy flavor is fruity and
fun, but the wine thins out rapidly onto a quick finish.
—P.G.
Price: $19
abv: 12.6%
85
Pheasant Valley Winery 2007 Chukar
Ridge Syrah (Columbia Valley). This is already drying out, its fruit fading and its mouthfeel turning a bit woody. There’s a trace of of tart berry fruit, with
plenty of drying tannins. Drink now. —P.G.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $21
The Wine Enthusiast
Statement of Ownership,
Management, and Circulation
Publication title: Wine Enthusiast Magazine Publication No.
1078-3318. Issue Frequency: Monthly plus 1 special issue.
No. of issues published annually: 13. Annual subscription
price: $34.95. Complete mailing address of known office
of publication: 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco,
NY 10549-1158; Contact person, Barbara Gianisis,
telephone: (914) 345-9463. Complete mailing address
of headquarters or general business offices of publisher:
333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549-1158.
Publisher and Editor: Adam M. Strum; Owner, Adam
M. Strum. Issue date for circulation data: October 2012
Extent and nature of circulation:
A. Total number of copies (net press run): Average no.
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 93,486;
Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing
date: 83,667
B. Paid circulation: (1) Mailed outside-county Paid
subscriptions (Include paid distribution above nominal rate,
advertiser proof copies, and exchange copies: Average no.
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 73,128;
Actual no. copies of single issue published nearest to
filing date: 64,244. (3) Sales through dealers and carriers,
street vendors, counter sales and other non-USPS
paid distribution: Average no. copies each issue during
preceding 12 months: 5,091; Actual no. copies of single
issue published nearest to filing date: 5,092.
C. Total paid distribution (Sum of 15 b (1), (2), (3),(4):
Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12
months: 78,219; Actual no. copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date: 69,336.
D. Free distribution by mail and outside mail: (1) Outside
county: Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12
months: 1,782; Actual no. copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date: 1,805. (2) In county: Average no.
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 0; Actual
no. copies of single issue published nearest to filing date: 0.
(3) Other classes mailed: 0. (4) Free distribution outside the
mail: Average no. 4,554; Actual no. copies of single issue
published nearest to filing date: 3,343
E. Total free or nominal rate distribution (sum of 15d (1) (2)
(3) (4): Average no. copies each issue during preceding 12
months: 6,327. Actual no. copies of single issue published
nearest to filing date: 5,148
F. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): Average no.
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 84,545.
date: 74,484
G. Copies not distributed: Average no. copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 8,940; Actual no. copies of
single issue published nearest to filing date: 9,163.
H. Total (Sum of 15f and g): Average no. copies each issue
during preceding 12 months: 93,486. Actual no. copies of
single issue published nearest to filing date: 88,667.
I. Percent paid (15c divided by 15f times 100): Average no.
copies each issue during preceding 12 months: 92.52%;
date: 93.09%.
I certify that all information furnished on this form is true
and complete. Adam M. Strum, Owner. Date: 9/30/12
SPIRITS
ses, sourced from one of the oldest sugar-cane fields in
Central America.
abv: 40%
Price: $22
PUERTO RICAN RUM
T
ypically, rums wear their places of
origin like badges of honor, and Puerto
Rico is no exception—the territory
even bills itself as “the rum capital of the
world.” By some estimates, as much as 80%
of the rum consumed in the United States
originates from Puerto Rico.
In Puerto Rico, the rums are typically
distilled in a lighter style compared to many
of the other islands, and Bacardi, one of the
best-known brands, is a top producer of these
lighter, approachable Puerto Rican rums.
Another name for rum-lovers to learn
is Don Q, whose fuller-bodied rums are
developed using the Solera blending system
used for fine Sherries—a fractional aging
method, where new batches of Sherry (or
rum) are regularly added to old batches. The
delectable Gran Añejo (previously reviewed)
and Añejo bottlings are both particularly
worth a try.
According to Ed Hamilton, who runs
the rum-centric Ministry of Rum Web site
(ministryofrum.com), one of the most popular
ways locals in Puerto Rico consume rum
during the winter months is in the form of an
eggnog-like drink called coquito.
“There is a long-standing tradition of
flavoring rum with coconut milk or cream (of
coconut) and other spices to make coquito,”
he explains. The drink primarily is consumed
“during the long holiday season that starts
before Christmas and runs through Three
Kings Day, twelve days after Christmas.”
Rounding out the rum theme are reviews
of several new rums from beyond Puerto
Rico, incorporating a wide array of ages and
provenances, and one caçhaca, a close cousin
to rum.
Cheers!
—K ara Newman
PUERTO RICAN RUMS
OTHER RUMS
CAÇHACA
92
93
Appleton Estate 12-Year-Old (Jamaica;
Kobrand Corporation, New York, NY).
Hailing from Jamaica, this smooth 12-year-old rum features a sticky dark-toffee aroma accented by almond
and peach notes. On the palate, look for a nice rounded
caramel flavor that flashes lots of clove and cinnamon
tones on the finish.
abv: 43%
Price: $35
Maison Leblon Signature Merlet-Aged
Caçhaca (Brazil; Leblon USA, Manhasset, NY). Most caçhacas are crystal-clear, but this
unique aged version has a pretty amber cast and enticing aromas that evoke butterscotch and hazelnut. The
flavor runs to brown sugar, with a warm, nutty finish.
Delicious, and new to the market as of summer 2012.
abv: 42%
Price: $30/375 ml
90
READY-TO-DRINK
Don Q Añejo (Puerto Rico; Serralles USA,
Irving, TX). Smooth and mellow, this tawny
aged rum features light almond and crème brûlée flavors, and a long finish accented by notes of black tea
and clove. It’s good for sipping with a block of ice. Made
from a blend of rums aged 2–7 years. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
90
Bacardi Oakheart (Puerto Rico; Bacardi
USA, Miami, FL). This amber spiced rum,
which debuted last October, is aged in charred oak barrels, yielding a smooth, oaky vanilla flavor with a bit of
spice on the lingering finish. Use as a mixer for rum and
cola or in tiki-inspired drinks. Best Buy.
abv: 35%
Price: $13
88
Caliche Puerto Rican Rum (Puerto Rico;
Serralles USA, Irving, TX). A collaboration
between rum producer Roberto Serralles and nightlife
impresario Rande Gerber, this clear rum has a mild,
sweet coconut flavor and a faint citrusy tang. Made with
rum aged up to four years, it’s presented in a rusticlooking bottle with a rope coiled around the neck. Mix
it into fruity daiquiris and mai tais.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
87
Bacardi Black Razz (Puerto Rico; Bacardi USA, Miami, FL). As a mixer, this clear,
flavored rum should appeal to the vodka-tonic crowd.
Look for a sugared berry scent and a juicy, mouthwatering raspberry flavor.
abv: 35%
Price: $15
Arehucas Ron Miel Guanche (Spain;
Copa Spirits, Jacksonville, FL). For full
review see page 12.
abv: 20%
Price: $30
89
Whistling Andy Hibiscus-Coconut Rum
(USA; Whistling Andy, Big Fork, MT).
With its transparent pink-blush hue that was imparted
from hibiscus flowers, this unusual flavored white rum
resembles rosé wine in the glass. But the delicate flavors
tend toward sugary coconut, touched with vanilla and a
hint of juicy red fruit. Made from sugar cane in a Montana microdistillery. Use for tropical drinks.
abv: 40%
Price: $24
87
Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum (St.
Croix, V.I.; Diageo Americas, Norwalk,
CT). This new spiced blackstrap rum is dark and dangerous, with a cola-like flavor that explodes into spicy
fireworks of cinnamon and clove. Rum aged in doublecharred blackened barrels results in an oaky, slightly bitter edge. Some may prefer the lighter hand of the original Captain Morgan for rum and Cokes.
abv: 50%
Price: $22
86
FlipFlop Spiced Rum (Caribbean; Underdog Wine & Spirits, Livermore, CA).
Proceeds from this light-gold spiced rum benefit
Soles4Souls, an international shoe charity providing
footwear to those in need. Flavors run to vanilla and
clove, a fine match for tropical-style cocktails. The playful label sports a floral Hawaiian-shirt motif.
Price: $14
abv: 35%
85
Geronimo’s Treasure Island Spiced Rum
(Caribbean; Arcadia Imports, Plainville,
CT). This pale-gold spiced rum has sweet vanilla and
cola aromas, with mild flavors of honey, cassia bark and
clove. Mix with cola or fruit juice.
abv: 35%
Price: $12
94
88
Bacardi Light Mojito (Puerto Rico; Bacardi USA, Miami, FL). Supposedly, the mojito is
the drink that bartenders hate to make—that muddling
of the fresh mint and lime juice is tedious. Bacardi’s
ready-to-drink version goes down easy, like minty limeade. It’s no substitute for the real thing, but it’s not a
bad way to enjoy a mojito at home without suffering the
bartender’s scowl. Fewer than 95 calories per serving.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
88
Fortuna Añejo (Nicaragua; BerNiko, Miami, FL). Give this amber rum, which is made
using rums aged between 8–10 years, a chance to open
up in the glass. The reward is a warm, honey-like flavor
touched with notes of dry tea and oak, with a toffee accent toward the back of the palate. The lingering, warm
finish is reminiscent of brandy. Made with 100% molas-
WineMag.com | 65
BEER
THE SEASON FOR STOUTS
T
here are very few beer buffs that don’t
enjoy a good stout, especially once the
cool winter months arrive. There’s little
to compare with the satisfaction that a good,
strong stout offers on a chilly day, except maybe
a mug of cocoa—but why have cocoa when
you can go with beer? The intense flavors and
occasionally high alcohol levels found in stouts
often provide a fantastic warming sensation,
soothing the soul and heating the body from
the inside. Not to mention they’re delicious.
There are so many different styles of stouts
available that there is almost certainly a bottling
for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful,
each will vary in intensity, weight, alcohol and
overall drinkability, depending on the specific
brewer and style.
Many consider Russian imperial stouts
to be king, with their high alcohols (usually
between 8–12%) and intense, roasted malt
profiles. Others might prefer oatmeal stouts,
which are full bodied, with moderate alcohol
levels (usually between 4–7%) and creaminess
from the addition of oats to the mash.
And then there’s America. Today, American
craft brewers have taken the classic English or
Irish stout to a whole new extreme, producing
a wide array of styles. From dry, easy-drinking
stouts to barrel-aged flavor bombs, the amount
of creativity and experimentation that goes into
these offerings is nothing short of amazing.
Hops are frequently used, and their influence
can vary in intensity from moderate to high.
Imperial stouts offer elevated amounts of
everything: increased alcohols (about 7–12%
versus 4–8% for others), full mouthfeels and
moderately to aggressively hoppy characters.
Many stouts are also excellent cellar
candidates. Bold profiles of intense flavors and
high alcohols suggest longevity; they can evolve
into even more complex and layered selections.
Though folks might worry that this style is
too strong to pair with food, a robust stout is
actually a great choice to serve alongside hearty
fare like smoky barbecue, grilled game or
thick, meaty chili. They can also complement
flavorful cheeses like Gouda or Havarti. And
let’s not forget about anything chocolate, for
which stouts are a match made in heaven.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
AMERICAN STOUTS
brew. Rich chocolate and caramel notes abound, with
supporting accents of sweet, oaky spice, roasted malt,
dark brown sugar and dried red berry. With a texture
like crushed velvet, medium carbonation and woody
tannins, there’s a solid structure here that, coupled with
the intense profile, promises even more longevity and
development in the years to come. Cellar Selection.
abv: 11%
Price: $12/22 oz
95
Avery Annual Barrel Series Uncle Jacob’s Stout (American Double/Imperial
Stout; Avery Brewing Co, CO). This is a seriously
good sipping stout that is best enjoyed with friends, given the high alcohol and intense profile, but it’s remarkable how dangerously smooth and well balanced it actually is. Aged in first-use Bourbon barrels for six months,
it’s loaded with heady aromas and flavors that can’t be
ignored. Lush, sweet flavors of toffee, chocolate, crème
de cassis, molasses and chicory root dance on the rich,
mouth-filling palate. The Bourbon barrel notes really
shine on the finish, with sweet smoke, vanilla and baking spice flavors that linger endlessly. Only 694 cases
produced. Cellar Selection.
abv: 17.42%
Price: $10/12 oz
95
Deschutes The Abyss 2011 Reserve
(American Double/Imperial Stout; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Although this beer—the
sixth edition of The Abyss—was released at the end of
2011, it’s really just starting to come into its own now.
The bottles are marked “Best After 8/4/12,” and there’s
still plenty of time left for this beauty to linger in your
cellar. It’s brewed with blackstrap molasses and licorice, enhanced by additions of cherry bark and vanilla,
then aged in barrels previously used for Bourbon and
Pinot Noir production, as well as new oak from Oregon.
There’s no shortage of aromas or flavors in this decadent
66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2012
94
Stone Imperial Russian Stout 2012 Release (Russian Imperial Stout; Stone
Brewing Co., CA). Another classic from Stone, this
continues the brewery’s tradition of offering a classic
style with its own unique, American angle. Full and
hearty yet balanced, the dark-roasted core and decadent mocha and caramel flavors are countered and
grounded by forward flavors of hop and resin, with a
tobacco-like earthiness. Secondary accents of licorice
root, baking spice, molasses and dried black currant add
depth to the palate and linger through the softly bitter
and appropriately warm close. A great cellaring candidate, especially as you can build a vertical of several vintage releases. Cellar Selection.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $7/22 oz
93
Deschutes Obsidian Stout (American
Stout; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Although
Deschutes releases some amazing seasonal and limited-edition bottlings, this year-round selection is not to
be overlooked. It’s a classic comfort, loaded with rich
roasted-malt flavors at the center, but framed by notes
of bittersweet cocoa, espresso bean and burnt caramel
that are well integrated throughout the nose and mouth.
The palate is deep and robust, with a touch of hop bitterness that unfolds on the dry finish.
abv: 6.4%
Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack
90
Dogfish Head Chicory Stout (American
Stout; Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, DE).
Dogfish’s winter seasonal selection is a tasty and quite
sessionable stout that’s brewed with organic Mexican
coffee, St. John’s Wort, licorice root and roasted chicory. There’s no shortage of aroma or flavor, but they’re
all balanced and layered; no one ingredient overpowers
the rest or overwhelms the classic and expected roastedmalt core. Medium-high carbonation keeps the palate
fresh and lively, and the finish is tinged with accents of
charred wood, medium-roast coffee and raw cocoa nibs.
abv: 5.2%
Price: $9/12 oz 4 pack
89
Karl Strauss Wreck Alley Imperial Stout
(American Double/Imperial Stout; Karl
Strauss Brewing Company, CA). Brewed with dark
kilned malts, cocoa nibs and Ethiopian coffee beans,
this is one intense stout that packs a sweet punch. It’s
brimming with mocha aroma and flavor, framed by
notes of baking spice, licorice root, burnt sugar and a
touch of molasses. The palate is full bodied with medium carbonation, and there’s pleasing warmth on the
finish, closing on a note of resiny hops.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $8/22 oz
INTERNATIONAL
STOUTS
93
Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout (Russian Imperial Stout; Samuel Smith’s Old
Brewery (Tadcaster), England). This reliable selection from Samuel Smith’s is intense yet drinkable. It
pours a dark, almost black color with a frothy, mochacolored head. A forward aroma of roasted malt takes
center stage on the nose, but supporting notes of coffee, cocoa, licorice root and a touch of caramel add dimension. Dark fruit flavors—blackberry, black plum
and fig—unfold on the palate and marry harmoniously
with the characteristics of roasted espresso, burnt bread
crust and brown sugar. A soft citrus-oil accent graces
the long finish.
abv: 7.0%
Price: $4/550 ml
92
Samuel Smith’s Oatmeal Stout (Oatmeal Stout; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery (Tadcaster), England). Balanced and exceptionally smooth, this pours an opaque dark-brown color in
the glass, with a glimmer of soft garnet and a dense tan
head. Initial aromas of milky oatmeal and whole-grain
bread are followed by nuances of sweet spice and dried
fruit, almost like cinnamon-raisin bread. The mouthfeel
is lush and creamy, but with good carbonation to keep
the dense flavors of toasted grain, milk chocolate and
lightly roasted coffee from feeling too heavy. Touches of
sweet smoke and hop linger on the long finish.
abv: 5.0%
Price: $4/500 ml

buying guide - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

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