spin-off magazine summer 2009
Transcription
spin-off magazine summer 2009
f i b e r b a s i c s I was first introduced to the wool of C alifornia Variegated Mutant (CVM) sheep at the Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival some years ago. Since only commercially spun yarn was available, I was left to wonder what the fleece was like to work with and what the sheep looked like. A few years went by before I heard of some CVM sheep in Etna, New Hampshire (less than 20 miles from my home in Vermont). This was my opportunity to view the sheep and buy a fleece to see what the fiber was like. At first sight, I was drawn to the unusual markings on the sheep’s faces and the beautiful colors of the wool. There were grays, blacks, and browns, with many variations in each fleece. I could not resist purchasing several fleeces. Upon arrival at home, I began examining the raw wool more closely and was amazed at the amount of crimp and how soft the wool was. The gray fleece had such a tight crimp it behaved like a rubber band. I measured a CVM and Romeldales at Yellow Creek Cottage, Medina, Ohio. lock in its relaxed state at 3 inches, but when the fiber was stretched to its full length, it measured 5 inches. Not only would this make a soft, resilient yarn, but it would also lend itself well to blending with those exotic fibers that lack elasticity or crimp. According to the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (www.albc-usa.org), CVM and Rom eldale sheep may be considered two versions of a single breed; the CVM is a multicolored derivative (mutant) of the Romeldale. The Conservancy also lists them as endangered and seeks to make the public aware of their uniqueness. Because the California Variegated Mutant is the only breed developed in the United States specifically for the handspinning industry, it is worthwhile looking at this rare breed more closely. Understanding the gene pool from which the breed developed from will help us better b y R o b i n R u s s o understand its wool characteristics. z Fiber Basics: CVM — otherwise known as California Variegated Mutant History A CVM colored lamb at Yellow Creek Cottage. 72 Spin.Off SO_Fiber Basic F.indd 72 Romeldale Sheep In 1915, a California sheep breeder named A. T. Spencer bred New Zealand Marsh Romney rams with his American Rambouillet ewes in an attempt to upgrade the quality of his Rambouillet flock. Mr. Spencer’s Rambouillet sheep had been previously bred to Corriedale sheep to further enhance their meat and wool qualities. The New Zealand Marsh Romneys were purchased at the Pan American Exposition held in San Francisco in 1915. These Romneys had a different genetic base than the Romney we have in this country today. When crossed with Rambouillets, the resulting breed was called Romeldale, and it was well established by the 1950s. ■ spinoffmagazine.com 05072009084101 5/7/09 8:40:07 AM This new breed produced a fleece with a longer staple and an improved carcass for the meat industry. Romeldales are open-faced with some wool on the forehead. They have ears that are generally horizontal. They are sturdy sheep, with rams weighing 225 to 275 pounds and ewes weighing 140 to 175 pounds. The ewes are prolific and live long lives. They are also excellent mothers and easily raise twins, which are common to this breed. Each sheep grows 8 to 15 pounds of wool annually with an average yield of 65 percent (35 percent of the weight of the fleece is lost or discarded as lanolin and vegetation). The fleece is dense and uniform with a staple of 3 to 6 inches and a Bradford count of 64s to 60s. The wool has a well-defined, tight crimp from base to tip and no kemp (kemp is the short, brittle, coarse fiber found in some fleece). Romeldales were originally kept white by culling colored lambs. That is no longer the case, and Romeldales can be white or colored. The naturally colored Romeldales can be solid or can exhibit many patterns and spotting. They come in white, gray, black, brown, and moorit (soft brown). The many shades of brown range from oatmeal to chocolate to red Irish Setter brown. Both CVMs and Romeldales can exhibit many color changes on one lock of wool, which makes beautiful tweed yarns. summer 2009 SO_Fiber Basic F.indd 73 05072009084101 Washed CVM locks. Breeders refer to this as color-change banding. CVM sheep During the 1970s, Glen Eidman and Hank Sexton further developed the Romeldale breed when Glen Eidman discovered a colored ewe lamb and shortly thereafter, a colored ram lamb in his allwhite flock of Romeldales. Both of these colored lambs had the same coloration patterns referred to as badger-faced (dark muzzle and eyes, with a light stripe from the muzzle to the eyes). Subsequent offspring also had this unique color pattern. For fifteen years, Eidman concentrated on developing the distinctive genetics found in the CVM today. In 1984, he sold his flock of seventy-five sheep, thereby introducing this gene pool to other breeders. For more detailed information on CVM markings, please visit the National CVM Conservancy website, www.nationalcvmconservancy.com. Today there are less than twenty-five breeders in the United States, but they are well organized, and information about the breed and the breeders can be located at the American Romeldale/CVM Registry (ARCR). They maintain the most complete herd sire and prodigy records since the time that Glen Eidman originally dispersed his flock. Sheep in this registry must be traceable back to the original animals in the ARCR registry. The American Romeldale/CVM Association (ARCA) also regis- At left, CVM locks and rolags. ■ Spin.Off 73 5/7/09 8:40:11 AM CVM top from Zeilingers. Sample 1: 1. CVM/silk blended batt, 2. silk skein, and 3. swatch. 3 2 1 ters crossbred animals that display the patterning for the CVM/Romeldale and keeps a list of breeders that can be accessed through their website. Both ARCR and the National CVM Conservancy work hand in hand to bring about awareness of this breed and support breeders who are interested in purebred CVM/Romeldales. CVM sheep have the same standards as Romel dale sheep, except they must have the badger markings (dark muzzle and eyes with a stripe from the muzzle to the eyes) and/or dark legs or underbelly. They come in black, gray, brown, and moorit, and the fleeces are likely to have multiple colors within them. Importantly, unlike most sheep whose color lightens with age, the CVM color darkens from birth to the first year. CVMs are hardy, curious, friendly, and easy to handle, and they mature early. Washing the wool Most fine wools have a high grease or lanolin content, and CVM is no exception. If the lanolin is not removed, the dry fiber becomes tacky (sticky) in a very short time. This tackiness makes it difficult to get a satisfactory fiber preparation and inhibits the ability to draft the fiber evenly when handspinning. Although it is a little more challenging to wash fine wool, taking a few precautions will help ensure that the wool gets squeaky clean the first time it is washed. To wash the CVM, place 6 to 8 ounces of greasy wool in a zippered lingerie bag and immerse it in a bucket or tub of very hot water (125°F) 74 Spin.Off SO_Fiber Basic F.indd 74 ■ with Kookaburra wool scouring formula. I have also used Orvus Paste, another scouring agent, which is available at most feed or tack stores. There are other agents available, and it is worth exploring these products and their availability in your area. Let the wool soak for 15 minutes and then drain off the very dirty water. It is important not to let the water cool significantly because this could cause the lanolin to attach back onto the fiber. Lift the bag in and out of the water a few times during this 15-minute soak. Do not agitate the wool. Fill the bucket again with the same temperature water and a very small amount of Kookaburra wool scour and let it soak once again (lifting the bag occasionally and placing it back in the bucket). Finally, drain off this liquid and fill the bucket for the last time with equally hot water for a rinse. Squeeze the bag gently after draining to remove as much dirty liquid as possible and then place it in the rinse water and let it soak for 10 minutes, lifting the bag occasionally to see what the water looks like. This one rinse should be sufficient to remove any remaining dirt and scouring agent. If the water is still murky after the rinse, then do one additional rinse. Squeeze the liquid out for the last time and set aside the clean fiber on a towel to dry overnight. Carding When playing with a new and unfamiliar fleece, I always put it through its paces with a variety of fiber preparation devices. Since CVM is fine wool, spinoffmagazine.com 05072009084101 5/7/09 8:40:17 AM you will want to use fine carding equipment. I began with handcards that are intended for fine wool. This means that the card clothing (canvas or rubber backing embedded with wire teeth) has 119 teeth per inch or more. I knew immediately upon charging the carders that the gray fleece with the very elastic qualities would be a challenge to prepare. With a little persuasion, I was able to produce a decent rolag but knew that this form of fiber preparation would not suit me. I then used the same handcards with the brown fleece and was able to produce a good rolag very quickly, as the crimp on the brown fleece was not as tight. The next step was done on my Strauch Petite drumcarder with brush attachment. Prior to feeding the fiber onto the carding machine, I picked it well by hand to get the locks opened up. I put the fiber through the drumcarder three times and was very pleased with the result. Combing Since I enjoy combing wool and prefer the smoother look of the worsted yarns, I pulled out several types of combs to see which ones would work best on this fiber. Because the fiber is less than 5 inches long, the loss would be too great if I used my 5-pitch, English-style combs, so all my experi- menting was done with 2-pitch (double row) handheld Viking-style combs. I tried both fleeces with Forsyth minicombs, Louet minicombs, and St. Blaise combs. All three sets of combs worked, but the loss (amount to be discarded) was too great. I decided the best remedy would be to put the fibers through my drumcarder first and then comb from the batt. This worked well and left me with very small amounts of waste. Sample 3: 1. CVM/alpaca blended top, 2. CVM/alpaca skein, 3. swatch. 2 3 Spinning When seated at my wheel, I had to remind myself that I was working with a shorter fiber than usual. The supported long-draw technique that I tend to use with the high-luster wools was more challenging with the CVM. I changed to worsted-style spinning and was able to exercise more control over the yarn. Because of the high crimp, the wool spun easily into a very light and resilient yarn even though I was using a worsted technique. The yarn was smooth but had lots of bounce. This yarn also resists pilling. 1 Sample 2: 1. CVM/ mohair blended batt, 2. CVM/mohair yarn, 3. swatch. 1 2 Blending 3 Because I enjoy working with exotic fibers, I always keep a watchful eye for wools that blend well with those fibers. I knew immediately that CVM would work well. It is soft, crimpy, and an summer 2009 SO_Fiber Basic F.indd 75 05072009084102 ■ Spin.Off 75 5/7/09 8:40:20 AM Sample 4: 1. CVM/ angora blended top, 2. CVM/angora skein, 3. angora swatch. 2 3 1 76 Spin.Off SO_Fiber Basic F.indd 76 ideal length. In addition, the numerous natural colors of CVM enhance the beauty of the naturalcolored luxury fibers. I chose four fibers for blending: alpaca, mohair, silk, and angora. Sample 1 I chose ½ ounce of dark brown CVM and put the wool through my drumcarder twice. Then on the third time through the drumcarder, I added ½ ounce of bombyx silk in layers with the wool. This silk was cut into 4-inch lengths before blending. The fourth time through made enough of a blend to retain a few areas where the silk would show through on the yarn and give the yarn a little character. Had I wanted a total blend of the two fibers, a fifth time through the carder would have accomplished that. This yarn measures 14 wraps per inch. Sample 2 Next I picked (with my hands) ½ ounce of light brown CVM and ½ ounce of light brown natural-colored kid mohair together, being careful to make sure the locks of each type of fiber were sufficiently opened up. Processing these fibers together through my drumcarder three times yielded a lovely batt. I spun the batt woolen-style, creating a light but bulky yarn. The halo effect from the mohair developed as I knitted up the swatch. The tight crimp of the CVM will help prevent the mohair from shedding or slipping out of the yarn. This yarn measures 8 wraps per inch. ■ Sample 3 Next I blended ½ ounce of light gray CVM and ½ ounce of light gray alpaca together once on my drumcarder. Using my St. Blaise combs, I made combed top from this batt. I spun the yarn with a supported short-draw technique and the result was a light, smooth yarn that measures 11 wraps per inch. Sample 4 For this final sample, I picked ½ ounce of light gray CVM with ½ ounce of light gray English Angora rabbit fur together and then put them through my drumcarder twice. I could see that they were not blending well because of the tight crimp on the gray CVM wool, so I used the batt to charge my Louet minicombs and was able to get a wonderful blend of the two fibers. I spun this with a worsted technique, and the yarn measures 14 wraps per inch. I knew that the angora fibers would halo or bloom as I knitted the yarn into a sample. It has been a treat to play with the fiber of the CVM. I am already dreaming about my next fleece. I think I will go for one of those Irish Setter reds. Wouldn’t that make a great sweater? z Robin Russo lives in Bradford,Vermont, where she spins, felts, dyes, and knits and spends as much time as she can with family and other fiber-loving individuals. Robin would like to give many thanks to Chris Spitzer at Yellow Creek Cottage for sharing her considerable knowledge about CVM/Romeldale sheep and providing pictures of her farm and animals. www.yellowcreekcottage.com. R esources American Livestock Breeders Conservancy, www.albc-usa.org. American Romeldale/CVM Registry (ARCR), www.national cvmconservancy.com. American Romeldale/CVM Association (ARCA), www .arcainc.org. spinoffmagazine.com 05072009084102 5/7/09 8:40:24 AM