Owner`s Club of Southern California

Owner’s Club of
Southern California
Established 1978
A Monthly Journal
October 2014
A Double Overhead Cam, A10 Motor with a
Triumph Transmission, in a Norton Frame??
The Piled Arms is a publication of The BSA
Owner’s Club of Southern California.
We are a member driven publication and rely
solely on your participation. Technical articles,
photos and “Member Experiences” and opinions
are essential
Meet Our Directors
Burt Barrett (661) 742-5539…..…….….…………....President
Steve Ortiz (951) 245-5287………….Membership/Secretary
Barry Sulkin (310) 569-1383………………………….Treasurer
Barbara Barrett (661) 832-6109……………..Events/Director
Clive Brooks (714) 771-2534……Piled Arms Editor/Webmaster
Randy Ressell (714) 502-4502 …………….Regalia / Facebook
Jody Nicholas (714) 730-9257...….……………….…...Director
Piled Arms Production Staff
Clive Brooks (714) 771-2534…clive54bsa@aol.com....Editor;
Contributing Members and Named Sources
The Piled Arms, 820 South Esplanade St. Orange, Ca. 92869
Please submit your articles by E-Mail or direct mail.
Deadline for submissions is the 10th of each month.
Members may place Non Commercial “4-Sale” or “Want”
Ads in the Piled Arms Free for 90 days, without renewal.
Contact Editor for “Commercial Ad” rates and information.
Librarian….John Gardner….310-920-3393
BSAOCSC Regalia… Randy Ressell….714-502-4502
BSA Owner’s Club Web Site
www.bsaocsc.org
Front Cover Photo ; Internet
Rear cover; Jim Estes
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President’s Page by Burt Barrett
I finally got a BSA! Actually I got two of ‘em. My first BSA is a 1969 Firebird Scrambler, which I recently purchased from Joe Powers III. I worked on this bike for him a
couple of years ago, and when I test rode it, I really liked it. It was smooth and powerful,
and handled really well. The engine cases were from an earlier Hornet model, and it was
sporting a single carb head, low pipes and silencers, probably from a Lightning or Thunderbolt. I prefer the low pipes to the high pipes and chip basket heat shield. The battery
was good, and all the lights worked. I added a
Norton oil filter which is still on it. The fuel tank
needs paint and the side covers are from an earlier Lightning twin carb machine. The front forks
were leaking a little and the gaiters needed replacing. The seat cover was replaced when I
worked on it in 2012. It has a new pair of rear
shocks, and drive chain also. The wheels were in
remarkably good condition, and shined up nicely
when polished with steel wool. The brakes were
great on both ends.
The machine came with correct Firebird crankcases with matching numbers, Firebird twin carb
head, high straight pipes (aftermarket), a package tray with panniers, and a never mounted modern tire. So I was really happy with my purchase.
Upon arrival at 3431, I began to evaluate it, and looked at several Lightnings and Firebirds. I rebuilt the front end, new seals, new springs, and gaiters, and straightened up the
fender, and cleaned up the front brake. I began looking at the engine and decided I was
going to strip it and change out the crankcases, and apply fresh paint. When I bought it,
my plan to just ride it until winter, and then make it into a nice rider, but I find that I cant
keep my hands off of it. Oh well.
Now I’m stripping it, and will rebuild the engine with the correct matching numbers Firebird cases, and twin carb head. When its down I will have the internals balanced dynamically by my friend Hugh Reynolds (Reynolds Automotive Machine in Bako) and repaint
the frame and fuel tank. I’m looking for the correct Firebird side covers too. I plan on
keeping the lower pipes, both of them look pretty good, but the left side has a few dents
just under the foot peg. The mufflers are only fair, and need to be replaced. I saw a
Lightning with a Firebird tank and really liked the look of it.
The other BSA is one that I have restored for a
customer. It is a 1969 BSA B44. It came to my
shop this spring with most everything ready to be
assembled, paint, chrome, and engine overhauled. I strung the wheels, added K70 tires,
new carb, and lots of correct nuts and bolts. I
recently acquired it from the owner, as he says he
has too many bikes, and didn’t need this one, so
I’m now the proud owner of a B44. I have had
the most trouble trying to find the correct high
pipe silencer. I found one at Baxter Cycle, but
when it got here it wouldn’t fit, so I sent it
back. I finally got one from Don Harrell, and that one fit
just right. It starts easy (for a B44) and rides nicely, so I’m happy with it.
Burt Barrett
3
Editors Page:- Oilyleaks by Clive Brooks
My Fellow Enthusiasts… Another good month for membership
participation in our Malibu Mtn. Ride with 21 riders, hosted by
Jim Holbrook. (see Jim’s ride report on page 6). Jim would like
to hand over this ride to a willing volunteer for the future, so
please read his ride report for contact info.
This October BSAOCSC rides are firstly, the Mt Baldy Ride,
then the Southern Sierra Ride, followed by the “After The Gold
Rush” Dual-sport Ride, with the Melo Velo and Griffith Sidecar
Rallies somewhere in between. Please see page 21 for more info.
This month marks my 36th issue of The Piled Arms as editor, yes it’s been 3 years already. When I took this on, I decided I would give it a 5 year commitment, so although it
may seem a bit premature to be looking for a replacement and knowing of the rush of volunteers I’ll have, to take over this prestigious task...not, I thought I’d better give at least 2
years notice. I am willing to spend the time to show anyone the ropes at any time. As you
know 2 years goes by pretty quickly, so I’ll be including a monthly count-down to my final
issue as editor. Hopefully a seed will be planted in someone’s mind and that person or persons will step up to the challenge and take the reins. Someone please consider it.
I urge you all to send me your British Bike stories, photos and “Tech Tips”, they don’t
have to be about BSA’s, most of our club members own other makes and marques, so
they will be of interest to our membership, for us all to share, after all this is your
newsletter. Thanks again to those who have already contributed material to the Piled
Arms, and I hope you continue to do so. I desperately need fresh articles to keep this
going.
News Flash…. BSAOCSC is now on “Facebook”, look us up, if you
know how. www.facebook.com/groups/617790894977044/
BSAOC / SC members, we are updating our e-mail list in order to
contact you for any last minute changes in our calendar events, so
please contact Steve Ortiz at ; ortizst1@hotmail.com.
CHECK YOUR MEMBERSHIP RENEWAL DATE (see front of envelope)
MAIL CHECK OR MONEY ORDER FOR $25.00 U.S. ($40.00 Overseas)
Make Checks Payable To: BSAOC/SC
Mail To:
BSAOC/SC, 11125 Westwood Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230
4
Coming To Grips….by Dave Spilka
I don’t know about you, but I find that messing around with my motorcycle’s drive
chain is something pretty low on my list of favorite activities. Maybe that’s why I
bought a BMW. But I still prefer to ride an English bike, and so I deal with chain
cleaning and lubricating.
I’ve never mastered the task of removing or installing the master link’s removable clip.
Either the pliers slip, causing pinched fingers, or worse, the clip gets propelled into the
wild blue yonder. There has to be a better way. And I found it at the local motorcycle
accessory emporium, where pliers designed specifically for attacking the master link
were for sale.
Because of packaging, I couldn’t fully investigate what had been done, but one thing I
saw made me say, “Why didn’t I think of that!” One of the jaw ends was slightly shorter than the other.
If you’ve already figured out how this helps, skip this paragraph. If not… Let’s look at
what the pliers are doing when they are applied. One jaw tries to gain purchase against
one of the master link’s link pins, while the other jaw must apply pressure to the clip
edge in order to move the clip either on or off the link. The problem arises because the
jaw that is against the link pin is above the clip, while the other jaw must be somewhat
below the clip. To accomplish this, the pliers must be leaned-over, and that’s where the
trouble begins. Without all the science, the jaw against the link pin is being urged to
slide up off the pin, unless it finds it easier to slide sideways off the pin. If the jaw can
be made to remain flush against the link pin, there is no force urging it up. With one
jaw slightly longer than the other, this is possible.
If you are so inclined, you can modify a pair of pliers yourself. A bench grinder can
easily shorten one of the jaws. Try removing about 1/16 inch or less and try it out.
Remember you can always remove more, but…..
To prevent the pliers from skidding sideways, use cut-off discs and a Dremel tool to
grind a “V” groove in the shortened jaw, providing a notch to locate the link pin.
These mods do not significantly impair the use of the pliers for other uses; so only one
pair of pliers needs to be carried in your on-board tool kit.
P.S. No sooner had I finished this article, I received advertising flier from the forementioned emporium (Cycle Gear), which advertised this tool for only $4.99. I needed
a ride anyway, since I finally got my BMW back on the road, after my incident with a
rockslide during the Big Bear ride, so I rode over and purchased one.
I tried the pliers as soon as I got home, and the worked great. Installation and removal
were done on the first try! The pliers also include a serrated section for grabbing round
stock, as well as a good-sized wire cutter. The overall length is about 6 5/8 inches,
making them suitable for most tool rolls. For five bucks, why make one?
Dave Spilka
5
The Malibu Mountain Ride Report, by Jim A.J. Holbrook
Photos By Jim Estes
On a bright sunny morning on August 24th, 21 riders, 1 passenger, 1 back up
driver and 1 event organizer arrived at Freedom Park in Camarillo for the annual
BSAOCSC Malibu Mtn. Ride and some more of the best motorcycle roads that
Ventura County has to offer. Non-member Gail Huff, wife of member Walter Huff
agreed to drive the back-up truck and trailer that Walter had brought his Triumph
on for the ride. She asked if she could be my passenger again this year if I was
doing back up, and when she found out that I wasn't going to be driving, she said
she would do it. Thanks Gail. In addition to Gail, we had the pleasure of two more
members of the fair sex join us. Barbara Barrett and Sandi Bilewitch, both on
modern Triumph's. My friend Chuck Berry, who was riding his vintage 175 Yamaha asked me later who that blond gal was on that modern Triumph twin, saying
she was such a good rider that he couldn't keep up with her in the twisties!
Of the 21 riders and 1 passenger, there were 19 BSAOC members and 3 nonmembers, 8 were riding Brand X bikes,(Harley's, Honda's etc.) and 12 were riding
Brit bikes including Don Madden and Dave Zamiska on their BSA's! I heard later
from Don that on a curve on Deer Creek, he apparently slipped in some gravel
6
and fell, resulting in an ambulance ride to the ER! But Don says he'll survive in
spite of himself. It seems that the BSA made out a little better than Don.
Continued on Page 8
7
That same Triumph, (H/D?) sidecar rig that was on the Ojai Loop Ride in July had been magically transformed into a Harley sidecar rig for the Malibu Mtn.
Ride! In addition to a gaggle of new and old Triumphs, we had a couple of Velocette's, an original R/E and Kelly Colgan on his '49 600cc Panther Sloper.
Club member Pat Hennessey’s new acquisition
I wasn't able to go on the ride this time, and at the riders meeting I announced
that I was starting to look for someone to take over these two BSAOC events for
me. So if anyone is interested in keeping these Ojai Loop and Malibu Mtn. Rides
going, let's talk about it.
AJ Jim
805-485-1688
Burt trying to fire up a Royal Enfield
8
Come on Sandi give it a go
Kelly Colgan’s ‘49 Panther
Harrington farms
Lunch stop
BSAOCSC Members enjoy
lunch at Rustic Canyon Grill
9
Need a Re-Bore Job?....by Lynn Bennett
The old Brit bike is smoking a bit more than usual, the powers down a little, and the
mileage since the last re-build is getting up there. It must be time for a new (set of ) piston(s). What should you know about the process and the theory of pistons operating in a
bore? Well, here goes on all that I know.
As probably all are aware the internal combustion engine uses a piston reciprocating in
a bore to make power: a rod connecting it to the crankshaft on one end of the piston and
burning fuel/air mixture on the
other end pushing it. Pistons on most Brit bikes are aluminum while the cylinder material that the piston moves in is cast iron. The cylinder might be solid cast iron or an aluminum barrel lined with a thin cast
iron liner held in by a tight fit and the head bolts. But since the materials of the piston
and the barrel (or barrel liner) have different expansion rates (aluminum, as in the pistons, expands more rapidly with
temperature increases than does cast iron, as in the barrel or liner) fitting of the piston to
the bore while all is cold must take into account what the final sizes will be at the operating temperature of the motor. To add to that, the alloying of the aluminum piston
with compounds like silicon and the manufacturing technique of the piston, like cast
verses forged, change the piston expansion rate. The fact is that forged pistons expand
more than cast pistons, for whatever reason, so more clearance between the cold piston
and bore can be necessary.
The expansion rate of the pistons is controlled by the piston manufacturer so the required piston to bore clearance should be his call and not some arbitrary rule of thumb
number. But some prefer to use rule of thumbs as a check and for cast pistons they
should be fit with 0.001 inches of clearance for every inch of bore diameter.
For example, a 75 mm diameter piston (3 inches, approximately) needs 0.003 inches of
clearance cold, minimum.
The way piston and bore wear is supposed to work is that the piston should have minimal wear while all the wear should be restricted to the cast iron bore. As the bore wears
the piston becomes a looser and looser fit into the bore and this, if the wear is excessive,
can cause the piston to rock in that bore. Continued rocking under the pressure of combustion can cause the skirt of the piston to crack and break off, falling into the crankcase
and causing un-imaginable amounts of damage there.
Most Brit bikes only allow the bore to wear to 0.006 inches over its nominal fitted size.
For example, for our 75 mm piston (3 inches) we start with a piston to bore clearance of
0.003 inches. We declare that
a new bore and piston is needed when that clearance grows to 0.006 inches. That means
we have 0.003 inches of wear allowed (0.006 total minus 0.003 fitted). But, to avoid
any possibility of seizure (where
the piston grows due to temperature to the point where there is no clearance at all and
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stops abruptly in the bore) we could choose to fit the pistons to 0.004 inches cold. We
have only removed 0.001 inches from the available amount of bore wear or about 30%.
There is no adverse effect, other than a reduced wear cycle, for using a looser initial
cold fit. In fact most Brit twins are fit in that 0.004 to 0.0045 inch range and if fit tighter
can seize (Please don’t ask me how I know that!).
How do we measure that clearance? First we must know how round pistons are made.
But….., they are not round! The piston skirts that support the piston front to back are
wider than the measurement across the area of the skirt that supports the piston pin. Additionally, the top of the piston is smaller than at the bottom of the skirts. So pistons
are elliptical when viewed from the top with the larger dimension across the thrust faces
of the skirts (front to back) and tapered when viewed from the side with the top being
narrower than the bottom at the skirts. But this is at cold temperatures. When hot the
piston grows asymmetrically to a round cylinder (so says the books). To measure
the bore to piston clearances we must compare the diameter of the piston skirts, about a
half to a quarter inch above the bottom, to the diameter of the bore. The easiest way
with a new bore and a new piston is to insert the piston upside down in the bore and
insert feeler
gauges in the bore to piston clearance area. The largest feeler gauge that can be slid in is
within about 0.0005 inches of the actual clearance. This is close enough of a measurement to verify the machinist did his job right (they do make mistakes as I found out
years ago).
How do we check a worn bore? That is much harder. The bore does not wear uniformly
around its’ diameter or up and down in the bore. The thrust surfaces, usually front to
back wear more than the piston pin surfaces. The bore will wear differently at the top
than the bottom due to the high pressures of combustion when the piston is at the top
of the bore. Manufactures usually give you guidelines as to how out of round and how
much taper the bore can get before it is time for a rebore. Any good rebore shop will
measure your cylinder for you to help you determine if the bore is worn out.
When the bore is determined to be out of spec, we need to rebore the cylinder and put in
the next size bigger piston. Pistons come in increasing larger diameters usually in 0.010
inch increments from nominal to maybe 0.080 inches. Some manufactures only provide
0.020 inch increments. Some machinist are so poor at setting up their machines that
they insist on going up two steps instead of one and sometimes the bore is so crooked
from wear that it requires to go up two steps just to get it straight again or to take out
gouges in the surface. Taking extra steps increases the likely hood of running out
of available piston sizes. When you can no longer get the next size you have to replace
the barrel or the liner, both expensive items. Some
barrels or liners can only be rebored a rather limited number of times as the structural
rigidity becomes an issue if taken too far.
Now that we have a fresh bore and new piston, all must be cleaned, as the honing process (the final stage of a rebore job) leaves minute pieces of honing stone in the surface
Continued on Page 12
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of the bore. Such particles are extremely erosive and if left, will wear out the piston instantly. Solvent or soap and water will not remove them. The barrel bore(s) should be
wiped out after the solvent and soap and water cleaning with a paper towel lightly saturated with oil. The oil captures the honing stone material into the paper towel so multiple wipe downs is necessary until the paper towel comes out clean. Do not flood the bore
with copious amounts of oil or the rings will take forever to seat. Just wipe down the bore
with enough oil to keep it from rusting. Don’t inundate the piston either. A light coating
as if you were protecting it from rust is adequate. The same goes for the rings. This is
considered “Dry Fitting” and assures that the rings seat nearly instantaneously at startup.
Talking of the rings, be sure to measure the ring gap, verifying it is within the manufactures specs (Piston and ring manufacture’s spec!) and if not, filing the ends of the rings to
get it correct. Measure the end
gap by putting each ring individually into the new bore and squaring it in that bore with
the top of the piston pushed into the bore after the ring. Use feeler gauges in the end gap
to do the measuring. If set too
tight the rings can expand, bind and break. If too loose their efficiency as seals will be
diminished. The fit of the rings to the grooves on the piston is commonly given in manuals (ring side clearances, I believe most manual call this measurement). It does not hurt to
verify that yours are within spec for if they are not and too loose they may not seal correctly or if too tight may seize in the lands and not seal correctly.
Shop Antics…..by Barry Sulkin
I just turned 17 years old and landed the job of my dreams, an assembler (out
of the crate) of new Honda motorcycles and part time helping in the parts department.
A mechanic said he needed one just like this as he was throwing a small tubular part to
me. I caught this part, which bit me worse than a pit bull, it was a charged ignition condenser that left everyone in the shop laughing their heads off except me. Well, that was
my initiation into the motorcycle mechanics world of the early 1960’s.
I got over my “shock” and went back to work only to be the object of another
prank a few weeks later. There are normal sounds in workshops that everyone is accustomed to so no one looks up while these common noises are taking place.
While minding my own business assembling a bike there was the customary
sound of the air hose cleaning some part off, but all of a sudden I was covered in a very
wet fog. It happens, that this shop didn’t have water separators so the mechanics liked
to spray one another and ME with water mist. While on the subject of compressed air, I
saw a mechanic spray a ball bearing to very high speeds. I thought that was really cool
and just couldn’t wait try it out myself. One day just before closing, I spotted a junk
crankshaft main bearing, a real big one. I just barely got it spinning when the service
manager yelled at me to “get that thing out of here.” So I stretched the air hose out the
service door and resumed the air blast, getting that thing spinning so fast and loud that
12
it would make a toy of a Boeing 707. It suddenly spun off my finger, dropped on the
ground, throwing spiral sparks in the dark like a comet, then gradually started rolling
and rolled and spun sparks and picked up speed, I ran after it but I could never catch up
with it and lost sight of it about two blocks away! I later learned of the danger and limited myself to smaller bearings that weren’t that safe either.
I saw other pranks like axle grease on toolbox drawer pulls and the bottom of
the doorknob to the John (toilet). Speaking of the John, there was a favorite stunt of
one mechanic. Baking soda is used in the shop to neutralize spilled battery acid. He
would wait till someone entered the bathroom, then would sprinkle a whole line of this
white powder at the base of the door then with the air hose spray it into the room making a gagging cloud. This happened a few times until it nearly came to blows, no pun
intended! I suppose the air hose is probably the handiest source of mischief. Often, a
mechanic doing a brake job would hold the backing plate flat and say hey, “you know
what”, his fellow mechanic would turn to him and say what, then the first mechanic
would blow a cloud of brake dust in his face. This prank went on for a long time at
many shops I worked at, nobody knew the hazards of asbestos dust then.
There are some harmless pranks, like I mentioned above with the axel grease,
but also there is one that I initiated. I would scoop up some cast iron chips from under
the boring machine after the machinist just hogged out a lot of material for a huge overbore. I’d take this handful and walk over to someone I liked, got very close, right into
his face and say “hey Jim, what would you do if I were to pee on your foot” while I was
pouring these cast iron chips onto his shoe. Many mechanics jumped back as I said that,
then saw what I did and had a good laugh.
Mechanics switching spark plug wires has been an ancient trick that always
got a laugh when the other mechanic got stumped trying to service the bike. Back to
compressed air but this time helium. The motorcycle shop was having an open house
to spur sales and there were lots of helium filled balloons everywhere. One of the
salesmen had the habit of leaving his keys on his desk. His buddy at the next desk
grabbed a bunch of balloons and tied them to those keys and sent them aloft to the high
ceiling. Oh there were a lot of laughs, but the guy really needed those keys, I believe
he borrowed a BB gun from somewhere and shot them down. That salesman decided
to get even with “his buddy” and took a bunch of balloons and filled the other guy’s car
with them!
When it came to balloons, I was no angel either. I’d take a balloon into the
shop, light up the oxy-acetylene torch and adjust it to perfect welding flame then snuff
the flame out. Making sure nobody is around with a cigarette, I’d put the torch tip into
the balloon and fill it, tape a page of rolled up newspaper to it, take it outdoors then
light the newspaper as a fuse. The blast and concussion is nothing short of astounding,
maybe five M80’s at one time! This trick caught on and I thought someone would get
seriously hurt but it never happened.
Now children, you have just read about a bunch of naughty things that have
taken place in motorcycle shops, please don’t try any of them because you could get
hurt!
Barry Sulkin
13
Old “Cycle Magazine” Service Tips
submitted by Randy Ressell
INTERNATIONAL THREAD SIZE
Can you give me some information to sort out screw threads on English, European, and
Japanese motorcycles?
First of all, English motorcycles have nuts and bolts in inch sizes, i.e., I/4", 5/I6” , 3/8”
diameter, etc. Continental, European and Japanese models have bolts and screws to millimeter diameters.
There are three basic thread types generally used on English motorcycles, as follows.
C.E.l. 26 threads per inch are used for sizes I/4”-7/I6” inclusive.
There are some 1/2" x 26 and 1/2” and 9/I6” in 20 threads per inch. The ½”x2O, incidentally, is interchangeable with the American fine thread.
B.S.F. (British Standard Fine.) This thread is the most generally used in the British automotive industry, but has some application on English motorcycles. Threads per inch
of common sizes are as follows: 1/4”-26, 5/16"-22, 3/8"-20, 7/16”-18, ½”-20.
The most common use of this thread in English motorcycles is the 3/8”x2O, used on all
Lucas magneto armature shafts.
This thread is also used on B.S.A. armature twin model cylinder head bolts.
Whitworth These are coarse threads, only used in aluminum such as cylinder base
studs, timing cover, and chain-case screws. The thread angle is 55°, instead of the standard American 60° angle, but the threads per inch in sizes from 4-7/I6 diameter are the
same as American coarse threads, and the American coarse nuts and bolts substitute
satisfactorily.
ATLAS BLOWS ITS HEAD
Q. The head gasket on my Norton Atlas has blown out at 4,000 miles. l have heard of
this happening on other similar models. What can be done to prevent this?
A. A lot of this trouble has been due to improper head nut tightening on the original
assembly One or two nuts, completely untightened, or inadequately tightened, may
be discovered. All studs are 3/8”diameter and should be tightened to 35 lbs. except
the two front studs which are 5/16", and should be tightened to 25 lbs. only. On
many models, it will be found almost impossible to get a wrench on the rear head
stud nut because of insufficient clearance between the nut and the cylinder block.
This can generally be overcome by obtaining a suitable 12 point box-end wrench
and grinding down very thin. lt is advisable to remove some metal from the
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block casting in the area surrounding this nut to give improved wrench clearance.
In instances where operation has been continued for some distance with a leaking
head gasket, the head may be slightly warped, or there will probably be a low spot
on the head joint surface, and this of course should be overcome before refitting. A
very careful filing of the head joint surface in various directions achieves reasonably good results, but when this is being done, the tile should be loaded with chalk to
prevent aluminum picking Up in the file and scoring the surface. Finally, the head
joint surface should be rubbed down on emery cloth.
After a few hundred miles operation, it is advisable to retighten the head nuts because as with most copper asbestos gaskets, some shrinkage occurs in the early
stages.
WARMED-OVER TRIUMPH
Q. I am going to overhaul my 1958 Triumph 6T, and I am interested in raising the compression ratio to 9 1/2:1 and installing a racing cam. The motor runs fairly smoothly
now, and I would like to retain this smoothness, if possible How far can the cylinders be
bored without danger of having the cylinder walls too thin? Also, do I have to split the
crankcase to install the new cams?
A. If it is your intention to use the motorcycle for any long distance high speed highway
operation, it is suggested that you limit the compression ratio to 8.5:l. On your model,
with the iron cylinder head, you are likely to run into trouble from overheating, with the
higher ratios, under conditions of long distance, high speed operation.
On the matter of cam shaft equipment, you would be best advised to install manufacturer's inlet cam number E.3134, and exhaust cam shaft number E3325. This is the combination used on the Triumph T.120, and offers the best compromise.
lt is advisable to keep the cylinder oversize down to .040” if possible. The only objection to larger oversizes is the closeness of the head bolt holes to the bores, and there is
some danger of cracking through on very large oversizes. Except for this hazard, the
block itself is adequately thick for .060” oversize.
Yes, it is necessary to dismantle the crankcase to replace the camshafts. To obtain full
benefit from the special cams, you should replace the original 1-1/16" bore carburetor
with a l-5/32 bore size. lt will also be helpful to do a little work on the inlet manifold to
eliminate any step in the ports at the joint between the manifold and the head.
ELECTRA SLIP
Q. The kickstarter on my Norton Electra has started to slip suddenly. This usually happens when the motor is cold. Does something require adjusting, or what should be done
to take care of this?
A. Your trouble is a worn kickstarter pawl. If you have the original Instruction manual
and parts list refer to plate G, illustration number 37. The part required is number
045205 pawl.
15
Triumph Lubrication….by Howard Pope
Originally printed in the P.A. Dec 2006
The following points I am bringing up pertain mostly to later OIF Triumphs, one of
which a 78 Triumph is my favored mount for distance riding and general short distance rides. As you are aware, the later triumphs breathe via the primary chain-case,
thereby limiting the viscosity of the oil you can use, as I don't feel you should run a
straight 40 or 50W in your primary chain-case, so I follow the manual and use a
20W50, year round. It seems to work OK.
You have also probably heard as I have, that OIF models carry less oil than the
earlier models and "add an oil cooler", complete nonsense! Unless you’re traveling to
Needles at continuous high speed in the middle of the summer, you don't need one. I
have yet to overheat my Triumph, The late Barry Smith and I rode from Los Angeles
to the North/ South rally last year without any overheating problems.
Now, an oil filter is a different issue altogether, I feel a very worthy addition to
your oiling system. The most common one is the Norton type, and though it filters the
return and probably not as efficient as a modern car filter, it does work, and riding
friends that have added them seem to keep their oil supply cleaner, and their oil
change intervals somewhat longer. If nothing else it does create a sense of confidence.
I am currently installing one in my Triumph. Also it adds additional oil to your oil
supply, if that concerns you.
There's also from Morgo, a gear pump conversion for your Triumph, Do you need
one? I really don't think so, if you don't plan to go racing. Undoubtedly more efficient
than the Triumph plungers, but I can't fail to notice the disclaimer the manufacture
adds for every sale "We are not responsible for oil leaks that appear after the installation of this devise”. There is also an aftermarket plunger type pump that delivers almost double the capacity of the standard ones.
I also feel that all modern high quality oils are plenty good, but have you noticed
after running your air cooled motor on a hot day at sustained high speeds, then feeling
the viscosity of your oil a straight 50W feels, well like a 50W and the 20W-50W feels
like water! Also I might add, SRM the noted BSA specialist, will not warranty any of
their engine rebuilds unless you run a straight 40W lubricant.
As you have determined by now, this is really a personal letter, probably not designed to be published, and also probably quite redundant, as you probably are very
much aware of what I have said. If that is indeed the case please forgive me and my
ranting as for me is a very passionate subject, OLD ENGLISH BIKES.
Howard Pope
16
Kicking Myself…..by Art Sirota
the Gold Star is a fine machine
with high compression piston
mine's black and fast and strong and mean
a lot like Sonny Liston!
but starting it can be a bitch
the stock carb needs some fussing
it's either lean or way too rich
but sure to keep you cussing!
so I tried several other brands
the first one was Mikuni
but "Made in Japan" on a British bike
just winds up looking looney!
then I recalled in my backyard
an old Ducati Darmah
but when I fit its Del 'Orto carb
the Goldie wouldn't start - bad karma!
I tried the SU from my TR4
and the Webber from my Chevy
I kicked until my foot was sore
and my spirits sad and heavy!
then a Harley owner down the street
came by on his scoot so slick
he said, "Your petcock's turned off, Dweet!"
then my Beezer fired up first kick!
© 2014 Art Sirota
17
5/1/14
4/1/14
4/1/14
18
12/1/13
Members Only…...For Sale / Wanted
For Sale: 2010 Triumph Bonneville T-100 1850 miles (trading up to a more comfortable
Thunderbird) Scalloped black and white paint
scheme. $8,300.00.
Located in Lake Elsinore, Ca.
Ken Ballantyne - 951-6784-7625
Many accessories since buying, including,
retro round mirrors; Triumph TOR exhaust
(keeping the old school pea-shooter look, but
much throatier Triumph sound); custom painted bag (to match paint scheme); rear luggage
rack; center stand; Rentek (looks much nicer
than Triumph original) engine dresser bars; clear signal light covers with amber bulbs;
Triumph headlight cowl/fly-screen (virtually impossible to find now in black), long reach
seat removal screws. This bike is in perfect condition. It had 500 mile check about 7
months ago and is barely even broken in yet.
8/1/14
19
Members Only….For Sale / Wanted
For Sale: 1960 BSA A10 Iron Head Motor runs good, with custom sidecar Lights &
horn need to be wired. $6000 Russ Smith 818 780 5542
8/1/14
Wanted - 1966 Triumph Bonneville 650 T120TT Special. Bone stock preferred, however, will accept one that needs a bit of work as long as it’s possible to make it stock i.e.,
no “bobbers” or Ceriani’s, please. In all cases frame and engine numbers must match
and be between DU24875 and DU44393 i.e., no T120C’s.
Please contact Jim at 408.605.2010
8/1/14
Wanted: I am looking for a BSA DBD34 to purchase for restoration. It really does not
matter what year or condition as long as it is all there (well as much as possible). Please
contact Julian at 760-815-7356
4/1/14
Wanted: Useable 4 plate clutch with cush drive hub to fit Royal Enfield 700,
750 twins and 500 singles. Please call Dave Spilka, at (661) 965-1102.
7/1/14
For Sale: 1988 Matchless
G80 with 600cc electric start
engine and orig500cc Rotax
engine spare. Excellent cond,
only about 200 made. Ca.
licensed and reg. $5000.
See walk around at :
http://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=pDOqgxGyNuQ
Barry Sulkin 310 398 6406
4/1/14
20
Calendar of Events 2014
Sept 28 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet. Info: http://www.socalcycleswapmeet.com/
Oct 5 (Sun) * BSAOCSC MT BALDY STREET RIDE Meet at Buchanan’s Spoke and
Rim, 805 W. 8th Street, Azusa, Ca., at 9:30 AM, ride at 10:30AM. Info: Barry Sulkin
(310)398-6406 or Barbara Barrett (661)703-9249
Oct 11-12 (Sat, Sun) Melo Velo Rally. Afternoon of the 11th with hors d'oeuvres followed by all you can eat dinner. Free camping available on site, breakfast served the next
morning early, followed by a ride to Pine Mountain Club and back starting at 9am. All
makes and models welcome. Info: Contact Tim Kenney, 805 646 9982 or send a note to
thruxton71@hotmail.com.
Oct 12 (Sun) Vintage Bike O.C. at Beach Burgers 19102 Beach Blvd Huntington Beach. 2 – 4pm \
Oct 12 (Sun) Griffith Park Sidecar Rally 9am -3pm. Info: Doug Bingham 818-780-5542
Oct 18-19 (Sat, Sun) ** CALIFORNIA BSA CLUBS NC/SC SOUTHERN SIERRA
ROAD RIDE - Meet at Paradise Cove Steak House, Hwy 178, just north of Lake Isabella,
at 8 AM, Ride at 9 AM. Info: Frank Forster (831)688-2120, Burt Barrett (661)742-5539
Oct 26 (Sun) * BSAOCSC “AFTER THE GOLD RUSH” DUAL SPORT RIDE California City Info: John Gardner (310)920-3393 or Mike Haney (760)365-9191
Oct 26 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet. Info: http://www.socalcycleswapmeet.com/
Nov 16 (Sun) * BSAOCSC “ELSINORE GRAND PUTT” DUAL-SPORT RIDE - Lake
Elsinore, Ca. Ride starts at the Steve Ortiz home, 133 s. Ralph Road, Lake Elsinore,
Ca. Arrive at 9 AM, for coffee, ride at 10 AM. Dinner afterwards. Info: Steve Ortiz (951)
440-3521 Note: This ride could be cancelled due to road closures.
NOV 23 (Sun) * BSAOCSC SWAP MEET” & BI-MONTHLY MEETING Steadfast
Cycles, 26516 Ruether Ave. Unit # 210 – 211, Santa Clarita, Ca., 91350 BRITISH MOTORCYCLES ONLY! Begins @ 7AM to 11 AM. Seller fee $20.00 Pre-Registration
required-Steve Ortiz, (951)440-3521 BSA Meeting Info: Barbara Barrett (661)703-9249 or
Steve Ortiz (951)440-3521 or Barry Sulkin (310) 398-6406
Nov 23 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet. Info: http://www.socalcycleswapmeet.com/
Dec 7 (Sun) BSAOCSC ANNUAL HOLIDAY PARTY At Art and Lynda Sirota’s
Residence 37127 Tovey Ave, Palmdale, Ca 93551.Info: Barry Sulkin (310)398-6406 or
Barbara Barrett (661) 703-9249
Dec 14 (Sun) Vintage Bike O.C. at Beach Burgers 19102 Beach Blvd Huntington Beach. 2 – 4pm
Dec 28 (Sun) Long Beach Motorcycle Swap-meet. Veterans Stadium http://
www.socalcycleswapmeet.com/
21
BSA Owners Club of Southern California
Email & Phone Directory
Specialists
Gold Star/Winged Wheel: Dick Newby
No Email (714) 839-7072
**********
Pre Unit Twin: Clive Brooks
Clive54bsa@aol.com (714) 771-2534
**********
C10, C11, C12, C15: “Position Open”
To any willing volunteer, contact Editor
**********
Unit Singles/B50: Jack Faria
(805) 551-4982
**********
Rocket III/Trident: Burt Barrett
(661) 742-5539
**********
Triumph/Sidehack: Russ Smith
(818) 343-8045
**********
BSA Unit Twins: Bill Getty
JRCEngineering@aol.com
**********
Specialty Tool Consultant: Craig Rich
Questions: (562) 868-9389
**********
Please make calls between 9am and 9pm
22
BSA Owners Club Regalia
Sweatshirts $25 —$28
+ $5
S&H
Official BSA Owners Club “T” Shirt. Comes in Blue, Red, Grey and
Black. Large, XL and XXL. Price is $20 for short sleeve and long
sleeve $25. BSA Club sweat shirts are available in limited colors
and sizes. Price includes shipping and handling. Take delivery at a
Club gathering and save $5. Sizes and colors are limited, so place
your order quickly!
Contact—Randy Ressell: Regalia Coordinator
Hm. (714) 502-4502, E-mail: b2v8384@yahoo.com
23
Olav Hassel’s Velocette
Craig Rich’s
Velocette
Fellow Velos on the Malibu Mtn Ride