CLiC INTERNATIONAL
Transcription
CLiC INTERNATIONAL
CLiC International ® 5° 13 180° 90° 45 ° 0° CORE HAIRCUTS The Fundamental Core Haircuts information is to support the existing CLiC Haircutting Module. All information is color-coded to reference the CLiC Haircutting Module that the material supports. The Fundamental Core Haircuts are to be included as part of your standard learning process and to assist in achieving the goal of becoming a licensed cosmetologist. The haircuts contained in this booklet are considered the foundation for all other haircuts. They are created by using degrees/elevations, which range from zero to one eighty. These degrees can be used in their exact elevation over the entire head or used in conjunction with one another such as forty-five with ninety degrees. Your first step in learning to cut hair is to understand and perfect the four main degrees; zero, forty-five, ninety and one eighty degrees. The haircuts with their degrees can be specific to either a female or male head. Once you have studied, practiced and perfected these degrees, then you can combine any two or three degrees together to create combination haircuts. The CLiC Haircutting module contains a wide variety of combination haircuts, which will be learned as you progress further in your studies. 2 H A I R C U T T I N G TOOLS & MATERIALS The following tools and materials listed are standard items used for a haircutting service. Any of these items may or may not be needed depending on the haircut of choice and tool preferences. • Cape and neck strips • Mannequin head (optional) • Cloth and disposable towels • Hand sanitizer • Closable waste container • Alcohol • Airformer with attachments CLIENT/GUEST CONSULTATION • Styling brushes • Spray bottle with disinfectant • Table clamp (optional) • Scissors • Scissor or clipper oil • Clippers with attachments • Clipper brush • Clipper disinfectant • Razor with blades • Combs • Sectioning clips • Blood spill kit “The client/guest consultation is an important part of your professional service. Be sure to complete this step prior to each client/guest service you provide. Your successful retail sales and customer satisfaction rates depend upon it!” Remember the standard sequence of seven steps for each haircut: 1. Client/Guest Consultation 2. Hair Analysis 3. Sectioning 4. Baseline (Guideline) 5. Distribution and Elevation 6. Customizing 7. Cross-check FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A I R C UT S 3 s t u c ir a H e r o C l a t n e Fundam Women’s Zero Degree Haircut Objective: To complete a one-length haircut using a zero degree angle with scissors. A zero degree haircut has no elevation – hair is combed flat with scissors parallel to fingers and fingers parallel to the parting. If performed on a client/guest, hair may be cut directly on the skin. This haircut may also be referred to as blunt, compact, no-elevation or negative. 0˚ Women’s One Eighty Degree Haircut Objective: To complete a one eighty degree haircut using scissors and horizontal partings. This haircut uses a high elevation, which creates a long, layered effect throughout entire design. It is sometimes referred to as increased layer, reverse, positive elevation or long layer haircut due to the appearance of the finished design. 180˚ Men’s Zero/One Eighty Degree Haircut with Full Beard Objective: To complete a combination haircut consisting of a zero and one eighty degree, this will support the knowledge of the two previous haircuts. This men’s cut uses a shifted distribution with a positive elevation to create a long, layered finish. The beard will also be cut to maintain a full appearance consisting of long layers. 0/̊180˚ 4 H A I R C U T T I N G s t u c ir a H e r o C l a t n e Fundam Women’s Forty-five Degree Haircut Objective: To complete a forty-five degree haircut using scissors and vertical partings. 45˚ This haircut uses a medium elevation, which creates a layered or graduated effect below the occipital area. It is sometimes referred to as a stacking, graduation or wedge haircut due to the finished result. Women’s Ninety Degree Haircut Objective: To complete a ninety degree layered haircut using both a razor and scissors. This medium elevation cut creates uniform layers over entire head and is also referred to as radial, uniform, brush or layered haircut. If using the ninety degree haircut for regulatory testing purposes, read the following information: The examiner will verbally instruct the candidate what service is to be performed and the allotted time taken for that particular service. The examiner will indicate time to begin service, time remaining and when time of service has ended. Instructions are repeated twice and infection control, client protection and tool safety are consistently monitored by examiner. 90˚ Men’s Ninety Degree Haircut with Round Beard Objective: To complete a radial layered haircut with a versatile finish that can be worn straight, curly or wavy. This positive elevation haircut has the same length layer throughout entire cut – the exact length of the layers depends on client/guest’s desire. The beard is shortened by creating layers with a rounded appearance. FU ND A ME NTA L 90˚ C OR E H A I R C UT S 5 SIMPLE LAB PROJECT PROCEDURE Women’s Zero Degree Haircut 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 5. Follow procedure as shown. 2. Set out service tools and materials. 6. Follow standard cleanup procedure. 3. Drape the mannequin/guest in preparation for service. 7. Document client/guest record card/file. 4. Perform a hair analysis and cleanse hair and scalp. Before PROCEDURE A Divide hair into four sections. Mannequin/ guest maintains an upright position to allow the hair to fall in its natural distribution throughout the haircut. Illustration shows sectioning and horizontal partings along with natural distribution and zero degree elevation. A B A C Part a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting along the nape to establish a guideline. Variation: Can substitute horizontal for diagonal partings. Comb and place a one inch (2.5 cm) center panel of hair in-between your fingers (from tip of fingers to second knuckle). Scissor is parallel to fingers and parting. A D A E A F G Place fingers against skin of mannequin and cut hair using a zero degree with NO ELEVATION to establish a guideline. Keep some guide hair inbetween fingers and take some hair to be cut. Fingers stay parallel to parting with NO ELEVATION and cut directly at the guideline. Continue taking hair to be cut along with guide hair to complete the right side. Hair partings are clean and precise with hair combed smooth using moderate tension. Repeat steps E and F on left side of subsection. Once guideline is established, take a small piece of hair from both right and left back corners to check for equal length. H If guide is even, take another ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting and comb to guide hair. Must see guideline; if unable to, part less hair to be cut. 6 H A I R C U T T I N G I Comb hair smooth with moderate tension and NO ELEVATION to the existing guideline. Cut hair directly at guideline, keeping fingers and scissors parallel to parting. J Continue combing hair smooth using moderate tension and cutting directly at guideline until subsection is complete. K Continue moving up the head, taking clean, precise horizontal partings and following guideline. Comb hair smooth using moderate tension for precision cutting. Women’s Zero Degree Haircut L Comb and distribute hair evenly over crown area in its natural fall. Cut at guideline. Check completed zero degree cut on back two sections for a straight and symmetrical guideline. O Use hair length from the corner of the back sections to establish a length for front side sections. Keep fingers and scissors parallel to the horizontal parting with NO ELEVATION. Comb hair smooth using moderate tension with no tension at ear area due to ear protruding. Illustration shows the sectioning and horizontal partings along with natural distribution and zero degree elevation. R Illustration shows the completed zero degree elevation with natural distribution. N M Take a small piece of hair from both right and left front corners to check for equal length. Bring hair pieces directly underneath center of chin — hair needs to match in length. Illustration shows all hair distributed evenly from the control axis in a natural distribution with zero degree elevation. Take a ½ to 1 inch (1.25 to 2.5 cm) horizontal parting on side of head to establish a guideline. P Q Repeat steps N and O on opposite side of head. Once the guideline is cut, take a small piece of hair from both right and left front corners and measure for equal length. If the guideline is even, continue taking ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal partings; comb and cut the hair at zero degree with no elevation following the guideline. Repeat this step on the opposite front section to complete the haircut. S Completed zero degree haircut. T Completed hairdesign of zero degree haircut. FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A I R C UT S 7 Women’s One Eighty Degree Haircut PROCEDURE 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 5. Follow procedure as shown. 2. Set out service tools and materials. 6. Follow standard cleanup procedure. 3. Drape the mannequin/guest in preparation for service. 7. Document client/guest record card/file. 4. Perform a hair analysis and cleanse hair and scalp. 1 A 2 Before ½“ 3 B D C Divide hair into five sections – Three back sectionss – 2 inch two front sections with a (5 cm) center panel with two center parting. side back sections. Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting along the top center partings – ¼ inch (0.6 cm) of hair from both sides of center parting. Establish a length suitable to client. To save length for student’s next haircut, take a small piece of hair at hairline and use the lips to create length for guideline. 90° E Comb guideline hair at a ninety degree elevation using established length to cut across top of fingers; fingers are parallel to horizontal parting. G F Continue creating the guideline length by taking previously cut hair, hair that needs to be cut, and comb at a ninety degree elevation. Complete guideline, take previously cut hair and hair that needs to be cut to establish a ninety degree horizontal guide. Illustration shows guideline hair taken from both sides of center parting (shifted) combed to a ninety degree elevation. uncut hair 180° guide H I Divide guide hair into a center Divide a ½ inch (1.25 cm) part – provides a guideline for horizontal parting below both front side sections. guideline and comb up to stationary guideline. Comb hair smooth with moderate tension. 8 H A I R C U T T I N G J Fingers are parallel to parting and scissors are parallel to fingers; cut hair following guideline. Subsections will increase in length due to hair shifted upward to guideline. K Continue step J to remaining horizontal parting, keeping hair smooth and fingers parallel to parting. Preceding subsections of hair will increase in length creating a long, layered effect. Women’s One Eighty Degree Haircut L Repeat steps I to K on remaining front section. Use clean, precise horizontal partings and comb hair smooth with moderate tension. O At center back section, take a horizontal parting and some guideline hair from front section. Comb hair straight up, connecting to front guide hair and cut. R Repeat steps O to Q to both side back sections, take horizontal partings (conform to head curve) and comb hair up to a one eighty degree elevation. M Complete the front section combing all hair up to the guide hair at one eighty degree elevation. Repeat steps I to M on opposite front section. N Illustration shows center panel with horizontal hair partings shifted (combed) to the ninety degree guideline. Q P Continue taking horizontal partings and combing up to stationary guideline. Keep fingers parallel to parting and scissors parallel to fingers. Once both front sections are cut, cross-check using vertical partings held at one eighty degrees. Look for the progression of length – short to long. Illustration shows side back sections with horizontal hair partings shifted (combed) to the ninety degree guideline. Repeat steps O and P on center back section. Use clean, precise partings and comb hair smooth with moderate tension. S Illustration shows all remaining Completed one eighty hair in back shifted (combed) degree haircut. to the ninety degree guideline. T Completed hairdesign of one eighty degree haircut. FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A I R C UT S 9 Men’s Zero/One Eighty Degree Haircut PROCEDURE with Full Beard 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 5. Follow procedure as shown. 2. Set out service tools and materials. 6. Follow standard cleanup procedure. 3. Drape the mannequin/guest in preparation for service. 7. Document client/guest record card/file. 4. Perform a hair analysis and cleanse hair and scalp. A Divide hair into four sections. B Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting at nape of two back sections and cut hair at a zero degree elevation – keep fingers against skin and parallel to parting. Before C Continue to take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting and comb hair to guideline – must see guideline; if unable to, part less hair to be cut. Repeat step C to complete back sections. Illustration shows sectioning and horizontal partings along with natural distribution from control axis and zero degree elevation. 90º D Comb hair in its natural fall distribution over the crown and cut along guideline. Check zero degree cut looking for straight and symmetrical lines. E Follow steps B to D on front two sections establishing the guideline first by using hair from back two sections and completing both front sections. F Re-divide the back two sections into three – a 2 inch (5 cm) center panel and two side back sections. Secure the front into two sections. G Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting along the top center parting – ¼ inch (0.6 cm) from both sides of center parting. Cut hair at ninety degree elevation to establish a guideline. 180º H Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting below guideline and comb up to stationary guideline. Comb hair smooth with moderate tension and cut along guideline hair. 10 H A I R C U T T I N G I Continue step H to remaining hair in both front sections, keeping hair smooth and fingers parallel to parting. The hair will increase in length to create a long, layered effect. J Illustration shows horizontal partings with hair shifted (combed) to the ninety degree guideline. At center back section, take ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting to establish guideline, cutting at a ninety degree elevation. Repeat by taking horizontal partings and combing up to stationary guideline. Men’s Zero/One Eighty Degree Haircut with Full Beard M L K Repeat step J on remaining center back section and the two side back sections. Illustration shows completed back sections with horizontal partings shifted (combed) to the ninety degree guideline. Cross-check using vertical partings held at one eighty degrees. Look for the progression of length – short to long. To check perimeter of haircut, comb hair forward at a zero degree looking for the progression in length along the front hairline. O P Q Full Beard Design N To create a mustache, start to cut at corner of mouth along top lip line to opposite corner of mouth. Clean mustache line. Divide facial hair into three sections – chin section with two side sections. Cut chin section hair using a zero degree elevation; comb smooth and with tension. Continue the zero degree elevation on both side sections. Keep fingers against skin to maintain no elevation and comb hair smooth. Illustration shows facial hair shifted to a high elevation to produce long layers, which complements the hairdesign. Once guideline is established, shift all facial hair up to the guideline to complete the beard design. Comb hair smooth and with tension. S R Continue to establish the guideline hair following the facial hairline. Take a ¼ inch (0.6 cm) parting of hair below bottom lip and comb hair up to a high elevation, placing fingers at mustache hair to cut a guideline. T Completed hairdesign of one eighty degree haircut with full beard design. FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A IR C UT S 11 SIMPLE LAB PROJECT PROCEDURE e re g e D e iv f y rt o F ’s n e m o W Haircut 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 5. Follow procedure as shown. 2. Set out service tools and materials. 6. Follow standard cleanup procedure. 3. Drape the mannequin/guest in preparation for service. 7. Document client/guest record card/file. 4. Perform a hair analysis and cleanse hair and scalp. A Divide hair into four sections. Mannequin/guest maintains an upright position to allow the hair to fall in its natural distribution throughout the haircut. E Take a vertical parting at center nape that includes the guideline below. Comb hair smooth and elevate at a fortyfive degree. Variation: can substitute vertical for horizontal partings. H Repeat step G to complete the subsection using a fortyfive degree elevation. 12 H A I R C U T T I N G A B Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting along the nape. Comb hair smooth using moderate tension and cut a guideline at a zero degree. F Keep fingers positioned at a forty-five degree elevation. Fingers are parallel to parting and scissors are parallel to fingers; cut hair following guideline length from bottom subsection. I To cross-check haircut, use horizontal partings and elevate the hair at a forty-five degree. A C To complete the zero degree guideline, continue taking hair to be cut and hair that was cut to establish a precise horizontal line. Before A D Part another ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting and comb down to guideline. G Take the next vertical parting that includes some guideline hair and hair to be cut. Fingers are parallel to parting and scissors are parallel to fingers; cut hair following guideline. J Repeat steps D to I moving up the back two sections. Keep fingers parallel to parting and scissors parallel to fingers. Use clean, precise partings and comb hair smooth with moderate tension. Illustration shows horizontal partings with hair held at a forty-five degree elevation. K Continue to cut hair using a forty-five degree elevation following the head curve. The guideline travels with each parting of hair to be cut. Women’s Forty-five Degree Haircut Complete the back two sections at a forty-five degree elevation from top of head. Hair is combed and distributed evenly over the crown area. Illustration shows completed back sections using horizontal partings and hair held at a forty-five degree elevation. Illustration shows front If guideline has equal length, continue taking ½ inch (1.25 section with hair held at a cm) horizontal subsections forty-five degree elevation. and vertical partings. Cut hair at a forty-five degree elevation following previous guideline. Complete front sections at a forty-five degree elevation on top of head. Check for equal length using two front corner pieces of hair brought to center of face. Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal parting at bottom of front section. Cut the guideline hair at zero degree using length from back sections to blend haircut. Repeat step M on opposite front section. Take a small piece of hair from both right and left front corners to measure for equal length. Q P O R N M L Continue by repeating steps O and P on both front sections. Keep fingers parallel to parting and scissors parallel to fingers. Use clean, precise partings and comb hair smooth with moderate tension. To cross-check haircut, use horizontal partings held at a forty-five degree elevation. S Illustration shows completed Completed forty-five front section with hair held at degree haircut. a forty-five degree elevation. T Completed hairdesign of forty-five degree haircut. FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A IR C UT S 13 PROCEDURE Women’s Ninety Degree Haircut 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 2. Set out haircutting tools and materials. 3. Drape mannequin using neck strip, cape and towel. 4. Cosmetologist re-sanitizes hands. A Hair must be at least six inches in length. Divide hair into four sections. Variation: This haircut procedure may also be applied to a client/guest. E Entire perimeter guideline cut at a zero degree using a razor with a uniform length. H Cut hair with razor following nape guideline; maintain uniform lengths by elevating hair at ninety degrees. 14 H A I R C U T T I N G Some regulatory testing agencies require a razor be used to cut the guideline and hair below occipital with the remaining haircut using a scissors. Be guided by the educator as to what haircut, time allotted and procedure used for your local regulatory agency. B To create a guideline, part a clean, precise ½ inch (1.25 cm) subsection of hair along entire perimeter of sections. C Beginning at nape, use a razor to cut at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) of hair to create the guideline at zero degree, with no elevation. Part and comb down a ½ inch Illustration shows perimeter (1.25 cm) horizontal parting hair shifted (combed) along from back two sections. hairline and held at zero degree elevation. Continue to take ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal partings, comb and cut the hair at a ninety degree elevation moving around head curve. The length of hair you begin with is the same length at the end of the haircut. Continue cutting at a zero degree along the nape, side back and front perimeter subsections to opposite side of head to establish the guideline. Keep measuring the length to stay uniform. G F I D Take a vertical parting at center nape, comb and elevate hair at a ninety degree. Variation: can substitute vertical for horizontal partings. J Repeat step I moving up to top of ear using the razor. Complete cutting the subsection at a ninety degree elevation. Cross-check using horizontal partings held at a ninety degree. Illustration shows back sections and horizontal partings with hair held at ninety degree elevation. Women’s Ninety Degree Haircut K M L If this haircut is used for regulatory testing, complete haircut using scissors. Take ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal subsections with vertical partings at a ninety degree. Variation: May complete haircut using a razor. N Continue to follow guideline; elevate hair at a ninety degree and cut, using scissors, moving around the head curve. O Complete the back sections creating uniform lengths and following guideline. Crosscheck using horizontal partings with hair held at a ninety degree. On the front sections, part and comb down a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal subsection of hair. R Comb hair in its natural fall distribution and repeat steps K and L to the remaining back sections. Illustration shows completed back sections with hair held at ninety degree elevation. P Q Take a vertical parting of hair and cut at a ninety degree elevation using the traveling guideline created from the back sections. Repeat steps O and P on opposite side section. Continue taking vertical partings and cutting at a ninety degree elevation. Cross-check using horizontal partings held at a ninety degree elevation. S Continue with clean, precise Illustration shows completed front section with hair held at partings and cut at a ninety degree elevation moving up ninety degree elevation. to center part at top of section. Complete opposite side section by repeating steps Q and R. To blend front sections, crosscheck by taking hair from both sides of part and hold at a ninety degree elevation – hair should be equal in length. T “It is the candidate’s responsibility to remove hair clippings from model/mannequin cape, skin or work station. He or she must also sweep hair from floor and dispose in a closed container.” FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E Completed ninety degree haircut. H A IR C UT S 15 PROCEDURE Men’s Ninety Degree Haircut with Round Beard 1. Cosmetologist sanitizes hands and station. 5. Follow procedure as shown. 2. Set out service tools and materials. 6. Follow standard cleanup procedure. 3. Drape the mannequin/guest in preparation for service. 7. Document client/guest record card/file. 4. Perform a hair analysis and cleanse hair and scalp. A Divide hair into four sections. B Before C To create a guideline, part a clean, precise ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal subsection of hair from the back two sections and cut at a zero degree elevation. Illustration shows sectioning and horizontal partings with hair held at zero degree elevation. Take a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal subsection above guideline hair. 90º D E Repeat steps C and D to Divide a vertical parting at complete the two back sections center nape, comb, elevate following curve of head. and cut hair at ninety degrees – maintain uniform lengths following curve of head. Variation: Can substitute vertical for horizontal partings. G Complete the back sections, following traveling guideline. Cross-check using horizontal partings with hair held at a ninety degree angle. 16 H A I R C U T T I N G H Hair from the back sections will be the traveling guideline used for the front two sections. Cross-check using horizontal partings held at a ninety degree angle. F Illustration shows completed Comb hair in its natural fall back sections with hair held distribution, take vertical at ninety degree elevation. partings and cut at a ninety degree elevation. The length of hair you begin with is the same length at the end of the haircut. I On the front sections, divide a ½ inch (1.25 cm) horizontal subsection of hair and cut at a zero degree, blending to the previous cut hair from back sections. J Take a vertical parting of hair and cut at a ninety degree elevation, using the traveling guideline created from the back sections and blending to guide hair from below. Men’s Ninety Degree Haircut with Round Beard K Continue taking vertical partings and cutting at a ninety degree elevation. Cross-check using horizontal partings held at a ninety degree elevation. L M Repeat steps I to K on opposite To blend front sections, crossside section to complete both check by taking hair from front sections. both sides of part and hold at a ninety degree elevation – hair should be equal in length. Illustration shows completed front and back sections with hair held at ninety degree elevation. Round Beard Design N O To check perimeter of haircut, comb hair forward at a zero degree looking for the uniform lengths along the front hairline. Cut chin section hair using a zero degree elevation. Comb hair smooth and with tension to create a round perimeter. Q 90º P Continue to cut facial hair at a zero degree elevation, following beard perimeter and blending into hairdesign. Repeat on opposite side of face/beard. To remove the fullness, take vertical partings at center chin area and cut at a ninety degree elevation to create a traveling guideline. 90º R Continue with the vertical Illustration shows all the facial partings and ninety degree hair held at a ninety degree elevation moving around the elevation. facial curve to the sideburn hair. Repeat on opposite side of face/beard. S Cross-check by using horizontal partings and ninety degree elevation to ensure blending. Optional: Use clippers or scissor-over-comb technique to shorten beard hair and/or detail blending. FU ND A ME NTA L T Completed ninety degree haircut with round beard design. C OR E H A IR C UT S 17 s e Not 18 H A I R C U T T I N G s e Not FU ND A ME NTA L C OR E H A IR C UT S 19 FUNDAMENTAL CORE HAIRCUTS CLiC INTERNATIONAL® 396 Pottsville/Saint Clair Highway Pottsville, PA 17901 USA 1.800.207.5400 USA & Canada 001.570.429.4216 International 1.570.429.4252 Fax www.clicusa.com Empowering Tomorrow’s Cosmetology Professionals Notice: The publisher authors, and artists make no representations or warranties of any kind nor any representations implied with respect to the materials in this book, and the publisher and the authors takes no responsibility with respect to such materials. Further, the publisher, authors and artists shall not be responsible for any damages resulting, in whole or in part, from the reader’s use of or reliance upon the materials in this book. COPYRIGHT © 2011 by CLiC INTERNATIONAL® All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication, printed, digital or in electronic form, may be used, reproduced, stored, distributed or translated in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher, CLiC INTERNATIONAL®. All brands, manufacturers and company names featured in this book are acknowledged as registered trademarks to be protected under copyright laws. PUBLICATION DATE 11/2011 Permission requests should be sent in writing via standard or electronic mail, to the following address: CLiC INTERNATIONAL® 396 Pottsville/Saint Clair Highway Pottsville, PA 17901 USA www.clicusa.com EDITION 2.0