CUTTING
Transcription
CUTTING
Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 1 CUTTING TECHNIQUES CUTTING SYSTEM Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 2 CUTTING TECHNIQUES Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 3 CONTENTS PHILOSOPHY CLEAN EYE 4 5 GETTING STARTED 6 CONCIERGE 7 HAND MASSAGE 10 TECHNIQUES • • • • • • • • BLUNT CUTTING OF BASELINE POINT CUTTING SHALLOW POINT CUTTING DEEP POINT CUTTING SLICING SLICE CUTTING CHISEL CUTTING CASTLE CUTTING WITH CASTELLATED SCISSORS • ANGLED CASTLE CUTTING • THINNING (BLUNT) • ANGLED THINNING • BRICK CUTTING • RAZOR – PERIMETER • RAZOR – INTERNAL TEXTURING • RAZOR SLICING • BUFFING • EDGING • PERIMETER CHANNELLING – EASTERN GRIP • INTERNAL CHANNELLING • FAN CUTTING • BACK CUTTING • TWIST CUTTING 12 13 14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 19 20 20 21 21 22 GLOSSARY 25 HAIRCARE SUPPORT 27 • • • • • • • • BIOLAGE AMPLIFY SLEEK.LOOK COLOR.SMART CURL.LIFE TRIX ESSENTIALS VAVOOM 28 34 36 38 40 42 44 48 22 23 23 24 24 CUTTING SYSTEM 3 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 4 PHILOSOPHY ARE YOU READY TO FREE YOUR MIND? Open yourself to education based on core salon services? Experience a unique system that empowers you to benchmark and then challenge your personal best? Welcome to C.R.A.F.T. C.R.A.F.T. focuses on the skills of your art and all the services you provide for your clients. It is a learning environment unlike any you’ve known – hands-on, interactive, self-empowering. In fact, the C.R.A.F.T. acronym stands for and teaches skills in: Communication. Maximising your interactions with clients to give them your best. Resources. Making the most of your tools, your creativity, the people around you – all the elements you draw on for creativity and success. Approach. Sharpening the focus you bring to your art through discipline and method. Foundation. Ensuring a solid basis through the products that enable your craft. Technique. Improving your precision and speed with C.R.A.F.T. exercises, challenges and workouts. Are you ready to achieve your design potential… effortlessly? Then let C.R.A.F.T. put confidence in your hands. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 5 THE CLEAN EYE SEEING WHAT COUNTS SS SSS What’s your most vital tool? You actually see a great deal more than you realise. Beyond the familiar, the No.1 obstacle to educating Shears? Your hands? While looking directly ahead, you will see clutter on your eye is You! To really nail down creative seeing, It’s none of the above! It’s your eyes. With them, your right and left. An off-centre cape, a parting that you have to let go of your “Me Cramp.” Self-concern you select, design, map out, execute and finish all drifts to the left … these images can’t help but affect can be the greatest barrier to real creative freedom. your work. And you are not alone. Passionate hair your judgment as you cut. Visual clutter skews your And that is where the serenity of practice comes in. cutters know that The Clean Eye is the first step on perception, disturbs how you see your immediate the path to creative seeing. work area. As you experience the C.R.A.F.T. exercises, make a concerted effort to switch off the static and clutter WHAT IS THE CLEAN EYE? It’s a way of looking that demands a clean field of vision so the hands can do their best work. It means not making your first cut until everything within your circle of vision is flawless. So, visual junk is one enemy of The Clean Eye. of your everyday mind, narrow your focus and, for There are two others to conquer: Familiarity and the moment, define your entire universe as the area The Me Cramp. you are currently sectioning, parting and cutting. Nothing more. What could possibly be dangerous about the familiar? Just this: We think we know so we don’t If you can do that, you will achieve a state C.R.A.F.T. look. “Seen one redwood, seen ’em all.” We must calls “relaxed attentiveness.” And that is a moment in jump all over the idea that we don’t really need to time when new levels of creativity emerge. “see” the cutting area in front of us because we’ve seen so many. We need to slow our eyes down. Learn to stare. LINKS: The Zen Of Seeing, Frederick Franck, Random House. 1973; Drawing On The Artist Within, Betty Edwards, Fireside, 1987. CUTTING SYSTEM 5 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 6 GETTING STARTED This is not an ordinary book which you read and then put down. It’s a book for doers, designed to give hands-on experience with the versatile and inspirational C.R.A.F.T. cutting system. And it’s arranged so that you can jump right in and start practicing immediately. This Workbook consists of four C.R.A.F.T. cutting exercises which you are encouraged to practice on mannequins. Each exercise prepares you for the next so we recommend that you complete them in order. With C.R.A.F.T., and with practice, you’ll master a system of cutting that will empower your career and creativity for the rest of your life. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 7 CONCIERGE A MENU FOR CREATING YOUR CLIENT’S TROPHY HAIR CUT EXPERIENCE “We are ladies and gentlemen serving especially service excellence – is always in the ladies and gentlemen.” details. The discussions were lively. Passionate. & AMENITIES. What experience do you want your Two things became crystal clear: clients to have? Ritz-Carlton corporate mission statement As an economy, America is barrelling headlong into the newly emerging service economy. So, the question of the day now becomes: How are you serving your customers? With service expectations 1. Great service is not one thing; it is a constellation of experiences that add up to one thing. want to deliver Ritz-Carlton level service? single “right” way to paint or sculpt. Thus was born The Concierge @ C.R.A.F.T.: high-performance aftercare. How you position retail A 360° Circle of Service and a list that began to recommendations so the client is clear that it is the define it. After frequent and intense debate, it was extension of your service. on the essentials of your craft, believing that the of world-class salon service: ultimate service is world-class skill. But maybe, money? It can be daunting to pinpoint exactly what you want your service image to be and how far you want to take it. • PRESENTATION. How you present, communicate and position service; in this case the service of design and cutting. • CLIENT INTAKE. How you greet your clients. How you process and prepare them for the service. To brainstorm that question, Matrix invited a crosssection of salon owners, managers and staffers along with independent stylists and day spa owners to wrestle with the details, because excellence – • AFTERCARE. How you deliver and execute the post-services. How you educate your client on decided that there are seven stars in the constellation How? At what cost in terms of time, people and All the details that go to offering services that reflect your philosophy. Certainly you, as a salon professional, want to focus you also want to kick your service level up a notch. • SERVICE PRESENTATION and EXECUTION. 2. There is no single right way. Just as there is no higher than ever, the very idea of service is up for redefinition. After all, what sort of person doesn’t • CONCIERGE CARE, COURTESIES, COMFORTS • PERSONAL PRESENTATION. You are a brand. The salon team is a brand. The list offers some ideas on how to maximise the impact of Brand You: your image and philosophy. • RELATIONSHIP. The total package of procedures and policies you embrace to guarantee long-term client return and satisfaction. Having nailed that down, and honouring the intensely personal expression that is this industry’s trademark, it seemed a good idea to compile a list of possible options for creating Concierge Level Service in any salon. The list is a fun way to inspire discussion at a staff meeting, a check list for the solo stylist and a great device to allow lots of options to surface and ultimately inspire you to define your own personal service style. CUTTING GETTING STARTED CONCIERGE SYSTEM 7 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 8 CONCIERGE The Concierge List follows. There are many options. Some you may choose. Some you’re already doing. And some, you’ll put on your Concierge List to do in the future. The great thing about having the Concierge List to refer to is that nothing will be overlooked. Deciding not to do something is far better than overlooking it. And everyone in our discussion group agreed that The List leaves no concierge-level service stone unturned! Want to learn more about how the world of service is being transformed? This trio of books will shape your service style. Enjoy! The Experience Economy: Work is Theatre and Every Business a Stage by Joseph Pine & James H. Gilmore. 1999. Harvard Business School Publishing. Electronic Book availability from amazon.com. Experiential Marketing: How to Get Customers to Sense, Feel, Think, Act, and Relate to Your Company and Brands by Bernd H. Schmitt, 1998, Free Press. The Dream Society: How the Coming Shift from information to Imagination Will Transform Your Business by Rolf Jensenj, 1999, McGraw-Hill. THE CONCIERGE @ C.R.A.F.T. CHECK LIST PRESENTATION How you present, communicate and position the design and cutting service. CLIENT INTAKE: How will you greet your clients? How will you process and prepare them for the service? • Pre-printed daily client flow, a card with the client’s service history, formula, product purchases. • Ambiance: 5-Senses salon marketing (fresh flowers, water feature, background sound). • Cutting and related service promotions communicated in the design consultation area … how does it look? • Environment: Air quality, temperature, lighting will vary according to function. • Visual merchandising of great cut service (images, wall talkers, etc.). • Amenities (coffee, mineral water, reading matter). • Phone manner. • In-salon greeting/welcome with systematic front desk method. • Arrival notification system for stylist. • Client reality check (stylist views client’s clothes, her self-presentation, her body structure, etc.). • Smocking: Client ritual, suitable sizes, uniform colour and style. • Waiting experience: Seating, comfort, beverage, pre-service education. • Client education related to service: Cost of service, maintenance, home care. • Client history ready for stylist to refer to. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 9 PERSONAL PRESENTATION: You are a brand. The salon team is a brand. Some ideas on how to maximise the impact of Brand You: your image, communication and philosophy. • Representing the service: Personally wearing a great design and cut. • Dress code: Fashion statement? Lab coat? Apron? (Wear non-restrictive clothing, no sleeves in client’s face.) • Professional dialogue: Educating client on design in general, the client’s face shape, texture, etc. in particular. • Enhancing your professionalism by sharing expertise: Basing conversation on your knowledge of hair, fashion and the client, not just idle conversation. • Hygiene: How you show your clients you observe hygiene procedures. • Introducing an assistant (shampoo, styling, etc.), explaining her/his role. CONCIERGE CARE, COURTESIES, COMFORTS & AMENITIES: What special service “experiences” do you want to offer? • Greeting. • Beverages. • The touch connection: Hands on shoulders, complimentary hand, scalp massage? • Draping and caping: Fresh, unstained, clean items, of course, but also luxurious and comfy amenities including neck comfort, shirt/blouse dryness protection, etc. • Attention to clients’ personal items: Jewellery cleaning (but take care not to become liable for loss or damage), shoe shine for men and women, jacket steam for men, attaché/purse cleaned with leather cream. • The design and cutting consultation. • Executive amenities (cell phones, faxes, etc.). • Meals (lunch service for noon-time clients). THE SERVICE PRESENTATION AND EXECUTION: All the details that go into offering Concierge Level services that reflect your philosophy. • Brush/comb hair out lightly. • Backbar hair spa scalp massage, special cleansing and pre-treatment care. • Presenting product and tool tray according to your philosophy and standards. This includes all tools, (used or not) neatly arranged, combs/ brushes immaculate. • Service and products explained, positioned. • Hair cut execution. • Finishing/blow dry. • Showcasing the final design with a hand mirror. AFTERCARE: How do you deliver and execute the post-service services? How do you position retail recommendations as an extension of your service? How will you educate your client on high-performance aftercare? • • • • Makeup touch-up. Client Q & A. Product recommendation. Transition to closure or next service provider (if booked with another staff member). • Shopping tour of retail areas and recommendation for cleansing, treatment, protecting and styling the texture, colour or cut. RELATIONSHIP: How do you want to guarantee long-term client retention and satisfaction? • Pre-booking: Feedback, feedforward, time, money, the plan. • Move to reception. • Printed piece on aftercare. • Cashier: Separate staff and location from reception area? • Farewell. • Quality control for phone follow-up (ideally performed by neutral third party). CUTTING SYSTEM 9 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 10 HAND MASSAGE Precious hands. Precious health. Today, carpal tunnel syndrome is a very real threat to many stylists. In severe cases, it forces some to leave the profession they love. Why? The repetitive motions of wrapping, cutting, combing and sectioning can lead to: • Chronic muscular rigidity … • Severe hand cramps … • Muscle spasms … • Tingling up and down the fingers, arms and legs. It doesn’t have to happen. The self-care philosophy of Do-in (say dough-en) teaches that we can play a major role in building wellness and preventing illness. Do-in teaches us to observe our body, its strengths and its weaknesses. As a wellness maintenance and preventive technique, the practice of Do-in is unsurpassed. Over 3,000 years old, the method is a kind of self-Shiatsu based on the principles of Chinese massotherapy. It works like this. Imagine you smash your finger with a hammer! What’s your first response? To rub the wound. Think about it. When you touch a healthy area, it causes neither pain nor unusual sensation. But while rubbing your banged finger might cause some discomfort, it also delivers warmth, increased circulation from your touch, a stimulation of nerve pathways and bacteria fighting acids that live on our skin’s surface. That’s Body Wisdom. We instinctively know there is healing power in our hands. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 11 BEGINNING YOUR DO-IN PRACTICE Right here, right now, you can begin your Do-in practice. A practice is your promise to yourself that you will include a belief system or discipline in your life. Maybe you won’t always do it. But you will attempt to do it. It’s the struggle that counts; not the score. Your Do-in practice is your promise to you that the wellness of your hands is now a priority in your life. • Do-in is best practiced in quiet times, when you wake up or before you go to bed. • Focusing your mind and breathing is important as you enjoy your massage. • If you have the luxury of being able to go outdoors and sit under a tree, you can give yourself an oxygen cocktail at the same time. Because trees exhale oxygen – and inhale carbon dioxide – you will double your intake of oxygen sitting beneath a tree’s canopy. Reason enough to hug a tree! Learn this massage by heart. Memorise it so you can do it standing in the dispensary, on a subway or while waiting in line for a movie. It takes less than five minutes once you’re familiar with it. Give it to yourself twice a day – before you begin working and after your last client – and you will help fight the rigidity and stiffness associated with carpal tunnel syndrome. This can only do good. Share it with a friend. Use it as the basis for a salon meeting. Spread the good word. Do-in … it’s wellness for HAND & PALM 1. Using the knuckle of your index finger, apply deep self-Shiatsu pressure on muscular pads of your palms three times. 2. Press middle of palm three times. 3. Deep massage across back of hand. 4. Grasp wrist. Twisting rub. Massage. 5. Press watch point with knuckle and exhale. 6. Shake hand out three times. ARM STRETCH Work one arm, then the other before moving on to your hands. the next section. THE HEALING HANDS SELF-MASSAGE Want to see just how great this massage is? Easy. Massage just one hand. When you’re done, compare the flexibility and relaxation in the massaged hand to the other! You’ll be convinced on the spot! 1. Interlock fingers and push out three times. 2. Extend hand, palm up. Pull down three times. 3. Raise arms above head. Pressing palms together, lower hands/arms to waist. Circle forward and over head, keeping palms together. Repeat three times. MINDFULNESS Locate and note the hand or arm areas where you feel pain, stiffness, congestion or tension. Centre yourself. Breathe. Relax. LOWER & UPPER ARM FINGERS Work all fingers on one hand, then the other. 1. The finger vice. Grasp finger at knuckle, pull, twist and tug outward. Pinch/squeeze nail bed. 2. Bend fingers in and down toward wrist. Push inward three times. 3. Place hand on flat surface. Pull fingers up. 4. Pinch and knead the pads between fingers. Repeat on opposite hand. 1. Self-Shiatsu up outside of arm to elbow three times. 2. Massage around elbow. 3. Self-Shiatsu down inside of arm three times. 4. Massage around elbow. 5. Reiki-like energy release. Slowly sweep hand from shoulder to fingertips closely but without touching. CLOSING 1. Make a fist. With knuckles, tap up and down outside and inside of arm three times. 2. Reiki energy release over wrist, elbow, shoulder three times. Clasp hands and bow. CUTTING HAND MASSAGE SYSTEM 11 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 12 TECHNIQUES SPECIAL THANKS TO: Paul Falltrick & Noel Gibbins for demonstrating the cutting techniques Kasho for providing the cutting tools Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 13 BLUNT CUTTING OF BASELINE THROUGH THE FINGERS THROUGH THE COMB Why? To create a balanced clean edge to the length of a haircut. Why? Cuts a straight line with minimum tension using comb as a guide. fig.1 How? 1) The hair is taken in 2” sections and held in the fingers for tension (not pulling on the hair but holding it). How? 1) Combing from the root using the fine part of the comb down to natural fall then cut using all of the blade.. 2) Holding it close to the back of the client, so as to minimise graduation, cut across using all of the scissor blade. 2) Work your way along the whole of the back section keeping a central body position and over directing sides to behind the shoulder. fig.1 fig.2 fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 3) Repeat this along all of baseline. 4) A blunt line is created. NB Your body position You should be seated so the hair is as close to eye level as possible and remain central to the client Client body position Ensure client has legs uncrossed and is sat straight fig.4 CUTTING TECHNIQUES SYSTEM 13 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 14 TECHNIQUES POINT CUTTING THROUGH THE COMB THROUGH THE FINGERS Why? Gives a soft shattered look to the baseline. Why? Allows you to cut a shattered yet controlled baseline, ideal for curly hair. How? Follow same routine as cutting baseline through the comb but use the point of the scissors at a 45° (approx). fig.1 How? Cut in the same way as blunt cut through the fingers but using the points of the scissors. fig.1 NB NB The line must still be balanced Use the fingers for balance and tension as in fig 3. fig.2 fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 15 SHALLOW POINT CUTTING DEEP POINT CUTTING Why? Used to texture the ends of layers to leave a choppier finish, good for use on textured mid length and short hair. Why? Used to create soft seamless layers and remove weight. How? Using the points of the scissors cutting at a 45° angle working your way across the section. NB The angle of the scissors will dictate how prominent the texture is; the closer you are to 90° the softer the texture. fig.1 How? Lift up your section ensuring the ends are combed out straight then cut 90° straight down the hair shaft. fig.1 Make sure you work your way evenly throughout the section so as to not get weight bulges. fig.2 fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 CUTTING SYSTEM 15 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:00 am Page 16 TECHNIQUES SLICING SLICE CUTTING Why? Technique is used to remove weight, soften layers and create movement. Why? This technique is used to scoop out weight to create soft movement on the ends. How? Starting with scissors slightly open, push through the last couple of inches slowly closing the blades as you go, repeat throughout the section. fig.1 How? Working in vertical sections, start at one end of the section with the scissors partially open. You then push along the section working from short to long closing the scissors as you go. fig.1 NB fig.2 The tension in the section should be taught all the time when using this technique. fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 17 CHISEL CUTTING CASTLE CUTTING WITH CASTELLATED SCISSORS Why? This is used to create unstructured erratic lengths in the ends of the hair for softness and texture. Why? To structurally shorten lengths of hair and remove weight. How? Holding the section firmly with ends combed out the slightly open scissors are jabbed or chiselled into the hair across the section as the fingers slowly move up the towards the ends. NB Whilst this is erratic there must be an evenness to what you are doing to keep the result balanced. fig.1 How? Working in clean sections, cut into a cleanly combed section as if cutting blunt, how far down the hair shaft you go will depend on what look you are trying to achieve. fig.1 fig.2 fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 CUTTING SYSTEM 17 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 18 TECHNIQUES ANGLED CASTLE CUTTING THINNING (BLUNT) Why? To give a more unstructured version of castle cutting for a variety of lengths. Why? Does the same as castle cutting but with a less dramatic effect, used primarily for weight removal. How? Hold up the clean section you wish to break up then cut into with the scissors coming in at 45° and work as if deep point cutting. fig.1 How? Working on a cleanly combed section, cut in as if cutting blunt, how far down the section you go will depend on how much of the effect you want. fig.1 NB fig.2 Over use of this technique will result in thin uncontrollable ends, which will make it difficult for both you and your client to blow dry. fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 19 ANGLED THINNING BRICK CUTTING Why? By angling your scissors you will gain a much softer finish to the ends of layers. Why? This technique is used both for weight removal and length variety. Excellent on long hair for soft texture or if done shorter can give body or detail to crown area. Good for curly hair to create that uneven length effect. How? Much the same as angled castle cutting you cut into a section as if deep point cutting. NB The angle that the scissors go in at will determine the strength of the softness or weight removal, i.e. the more shallow the angle the more is removed, the closer to 90° you go the less is removed. fig.1 fig.2 fig.3 fig.1 How? Working in horizontal sections, comb out flat and clean, then in a brick work fashion cut out tiny parts of the section with the point of the scissors. Very important to keep tension in the section throughout technique. fig.2 NB Over use of this technique will result in holes appearing, cutting out parts too big will allow you to see what has been done and leave a step. Also if you go too close to the root, particularly near the crown, it will stand up. fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 CUTTING SYSTEM 19 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 20 TECHNIQUES RAZOR – PERIMETER RAZOR – INTERNAL TEXTURING Why? To create a very soft edge to a haircut to allow more movement. Why? This is used to remove weight from the internal structure and create movement in the length. How? With good tension on wet hair start from what will be your shortest point pushing down towards the baseline, putting light pressure on the tool. fig.1 NB Do not put too much pressure on the tool as you could push too far into the section and remove too much hair. Also make sure that your blade is fresh or you will tear rather than cut the hair. How? Taking horizontal sections combed out cleanly on wet hair, stroke the blade of the razor along the section, gently, until you come to the end of the section. fig.1 NB fig.2 Tension in the section is very important and don’t put on too much pressure as that may create a hole. Blade must be fresh. Also be careful about using this technique on curly hair as it can make the ends very frizzy especially if the hair has dried out. fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 21 RAZOR SLICING BUFFING Why? A more controlled way of razoring out weight because you can pick where you do it. A good technique for curly hair to create a more tendril effect. Why? We use this technique to soften and texture the ends of the hair. Excellent for shorter textured hair. fig.1 How? Holding horizontal sections taught at a low elevation, hold the razor like a pen and slice down root to tip in a brickwork fashion. How? Holding a section taught in the fingers the razor is repeatedly brushed across the ends whilst the fingers move up the section until the section is dropped. fig.1 fig.2 fig.2 fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 CUTTING SYSTEM 21 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 22 TECHNIQUES EDGING PERIMETER CHANNELLING – EASTERN GRIP Why? Gives a dishevelled finish to the ends of short textured cuts. How? Grab small sections of hair (the length of the razor blade) between the thumb and blade and pull upwards. Why? Used to soften perimeter shape whilst maintaining a strong body position. fig.1 NB Make sure the hair is wet and the blade sharp or it will be uncomfortable for the client. fig.2 How? Once the hair is blow dried straight hold the scissors with the thumb and third finger with blades pointing towards your palm. Working at eye level moving down from root to tip with the scissors slowly half opening and closing until you reach the baseline. NB fig.1 fig.2 Blow dry straight and follow the line of the blow dry otherwise you may remove too much hair. Also the application of a shine product before this technique would allow the scissors to pass through the hair easier. fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 23 INTERNAL CHANNELLING FAN CUTTING Why? This is used to soften layers and remove weight when you need to work deeper in the section than slicing will allow. Why? This is used to soften the centre of a section in a way that blends in the outer part of the section. Used on the top part of the haircut, particularly if you do not want to weaken the front baseline. fig.1 How? Using a vertical or horizontal section, comb out straight. Then holding quite low down the section work your way through the section from root to tip by half opening and closing the scissors until you reach the ends. fig.1 How? Working in wide vertical sections, comb out and pinch between the forefinger and thumb about 2/3 the way up the section. Then deep point cut until the section is broken up sufficiently. fig.2 fig.2 NB NB Application of a shine product before using this technique would allow the scissors to pass through the hair easier. This can be crossed with horizontal sections when lightening up a crown area for lift. fig.3 fig.3 fig.4 fig.4 CUTTING SYSTEM 23 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 24 TECHNIQUES BACK CUTTING TWIST CUTTING Why? Good for breaking up layering to create soft texture or some lift in the crown area. Why? This is best used to create uneven texture on crowns and short cuts as well as trimming split ends. This technique can be performed using the following tools; scissors, thinning scissors, castellated scissors, razor and tips of the scissors. How? Pick up triangle, vertical or horizontal sections and holding the section taught. You then move half open scissors up and down the hair shaft as if backcombing slightly closing the blades as you go down. NB fig.1 fig.1 fig.2 fig.3 fig.2 Close the blades too soon or too much and you could cut a piece out. fig.4 How? Take a square section and twist reasonably tightly from root to ends. Scissors – use the heel and make small closing movements working towards the ends (fig 1). fig.5 Thinning scissors – as above (fig 2). SPECIAL THANKS TO: fig.3 Castellated scissors – same as above (not shown). Razor – stroke gently towards ends with a fresh blade (takes off split ends) (fig 3). Paul Falltrick & Noel Gibbins for demonstrating the cutting techniques Scissor tips – make three of four incisions towards ends (don’t do too deep) (fig 4, fig 5). Kasho for providing the cutting tools Result: (fig 6). fig.4 fig.6 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 25 GLOSSARY angle. The incline, decline, slant or tilt of any line or position to the head, neck or hair shape. balance. The visual equilibrium and weight of the hair in relation to the body and the total hair shape. base perimeter line. The boundary line of the hair that lies on the skin and creates a base shape. bevel. An inclination that forms an angle other than a right angle. A gradual stacking of the hair along a base perimeter line. body elevation. Lifting your body slightly by raising your heels and standing on the balls and toes of your feet. body motion. The movement and motion of your body in harmony with the cutting angles. body position. The location and position of the body in relation to the hair being cut. body posture. The stance, position and pose of the body during a cutting exercise. bone structure. The underlying skeletal configuration that helps to form body and facial features. Challenges. A C.R.A.F.T. method for improving precision and speed by benchmarking your skill level then challenging yourself to beat yourself to beat your own best performance. Concierge @ C.R.A.F.T. A checklist of seven service areas for salons and stylists to consider in developing their own unique approach to 5-star service. Contour Layering. A cutting exercise with interior space and a travelling guideline. It follows the contour of the head, using pie shaped sections, beginning at the crown area and pivoting around the head. cowlick. A tuft of hair that naturally wants to stand up. C.R.A.F.T. A Matrix educational system that focuses on the skills and services of hairdressing through hands-on, interactive learning. CraftMaster. A hairdresser who can execute the skills of his or her craft in a precise, professional manner. cutting angle. The angle at which you are cutting the hair. cutting space. The area of the hair that you are working on within the exercise. For example, if you are working on a one-length shape, your cutting space would be in the perimeter area. Denman brush. Denman is a registered trademark for a plastic hairbrush that is used for blow drying and styling. diagonal cutting. Cutting the hair in any direction other than horizontal or vertical. diagonal layers. Layers of hair that are created by taking diagonal subsection and cutting at an angle parallel to it. Directional Graduation. A cutting exercise in which the hair is directed forward or back to redistribute the weight. discipline and methodology. The order and control you work in, along with your tactical approach. Do-in (say dough-en). A self-care philosophy that teaches we can personally play a major role in building our own wellness and preventing illness. elevation. The distance you lift the hair above 0° while cutting to achieve a one-length, graduated or layered result. Elevation levels can be 0°, slightly diagonal, 45°, 90° or 180°. exercises. A series of hair cutting methods, arranged in specific order so that each exercise builds skills needed for the next exercise. A method of practicing skills so as to improve precision and speed. exterior perimeter line. The boundary line of the hair that lies on the skin and creates a base shape. finger dexterity. The agility and nimbleness of your fingers. finger tension. The amount of grip applied to the hair with the fingers and thumb. Graduation. A cutting exercise that builds, removes or distributes weight and is usually done below the occipital bone at a 45-degree cutting angle. grain. The arrangement, direction or growth pattern of the hair. growth pattern. The angle at which the hair grows out of the scalp which often creates unique characteristics described as “cowlicks,” “widow’s peaks,” “ducktails” and “double crowns.” CUTTING GLOSSARY SYSTEM 25 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:01 am Page 26 GLOSSARY guideline. A guideline is the reference point used to determine the length and angle to cut each subsequent section. natural fall. Wherever the hair flows and moves according to the pull of gravity or its natural growth pattern. hair direction. The direction in which the hair naturally falls or whichever direction it is combed and held into. occipital. The bone which forms the back and lower side of the head. hair elasticity and stretch. The spring and flexibility of the hair One-Length Bevelled. A cutting exercise in which all sections are brought down to a perimeter base line at a zero-degree elevation. overlap. When a section of hair is cut and it overlaps or is longer than the stationary guide. To bring each cutting section to a guideline that does not move or change and to cut the sections at that position. underneath guideline. tension. The amount of pressure applied to the hair with the fingers and thumb. outside hand cutting. The technique of cutting the hair against the outside of the fingers. texture. The feel, touch or visual quality of the hair. parameters. Basic elements to consider and determine before starting any exercise. travelling guide. To bring your last cutting guideline to your next cutting section. To move your body position so that it follows the guideline. head shape. The contours and silhouette of the head. horizontal cutting angle. To cut the hair into any shape using a horizontal subsection and cutting it at that angle. horizontal layers. Layers of hair that are created by taking a horizontal subsection and cutting at an angle parallel to it. inside hand cutting. The technique of cutting the hair against the inside of your fingers. interior cutting space. Any cutting technique, such as contour layering, that does not bring the hair to a perimeter (or exterior) base line. layering. A cutting method in which the hair is held higher than 90° from the head and each layer is shorter than the last. parietal ridge. The curved area of the head where the top and sides meet. pivot. Turning a line (or comb) with one end stationary and the other free to swing or rotate. planes. Large, flatter areas of the head that are precision. The accuracy and exactness you apply to all areas of the exercise. precision lines. Lines of a hair design cut with geometric exactness. Mastery Point. Tips from the masters to help you execute an exercise with C.R.A.F.T.-like precision (like getting tips from a golf pro). and skills by reaching out and teaching another person. motion of your body in harmony with the cutting angles. subsection. The smallest parting within a section. This is the area of the hair that will be cut. solid line. A strong line that is cut bluntly with shears. vertical cutting angle. To cut the hair using a vertical subsection and cutting it at that angle. vertical layers. Layers of hair that are created by taking a vertical subsection and cutting at an angle parallel to it. divided by the occipital bone, parietal ridges and crown. mannequin. A life-size replica of a human head used for practicing hair cutting, hair colour and texture exercises. motion and body movements. The movement and section. A primary area of the head parted again into subsections. Reach-Outs. A way of integrating new knowledge scissors and comb control. The ability to comfortably hold and control scissors and comb and use them in any cutting position. viewing angles. The angle at which you view the hair as you cut it. weight distribution. Removing bulk from one area, thus creating more visual weight in another area. weight removal. The elimination of hair bulk, using graduation, layering or texturising methods of hair cutting. Workouts. A way to make a new working habit part of your everyday routine through practice and self-encouragement. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:02 am Page 27 HAIRCARE SUPPORT “ USING THE RIGHT PRODUCT IS ESSENTIAL TO THE OVERALL SUCCESS OF YOUR CLIENT’S INITIAL SALON EXPERIENCE AND SUBSEQUENT HOME HAIRCARE ROUTINE. ” Matrix offers products to all clients to suit every eventuality. In each section we profile the type of client who we see as ‘suited’ to the different brands. We then profile each product family and individual product to explain how to use them and what to use them for. 27 HAIRCARE SUPPORT Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:02 am Page 28 Beauty inspired by nature …experience the power of botanical extracts on hair… …with the help of Biolage’s botanical complex Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:42 pm Page 29 for protection for softness for shine sunflower, allspice, gingko and ginseng passion flower, bee pollen, hops and golden seal chamomile, meadowfoam seed oil, kelp and henna for cleansing for vitality for moisture sage, lemongrass and quillaja saponaria nettles, rosemary, capsicum and panthenol hibiscus, cucumber, almond oil, algae and wheat germ lipids …Biolage thinks that the most beautiful creations on earth are gifts of nature… Each Biolage product is based upon a Unique Botanical Complex that combines the legendary powers of botanical extracts with Advanced Haircare Technology Biolage products contain Aromascience, pure extracts of aromatic plants that soothe, relax and create a special sense of well-being 29 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:42 pm Page 30 NORMALIZING SYSTÈME ENERGIZING SYSTÈME HYDRATING SYSTÈME Balances normal to oily hair Vitalizes fine or thinning hair Nourishes normal to dry hair normalizing shampoo energizing shampoo hydrating shampoo Frees hair of daily build-up by deeply cleansing & balancing the scalp. Stimulates the scalp & removes sebum blockage, revitalising fine & thinning hair to help build body & thickness. Gently cleanses & moisturises while leaving hair wonderfully soft, shiny & healthy. For cleansing Quillaja saponaria, sage & lemongrass For moisture Wheat germ lipids For protection Ginkgo For cleansing Quillaja saponaria & lemongrass For softness Hops & bee pollen 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, litre, gallon For vitality & volume Capsicum, nettle & panthenol detangling solution 250ml, 500ml & litre For cleansing Lemongrass & sage For moisture Wheatgerm lipids, cucumber For softness Bee pollen For shine Kelp 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, litre, gallon Eliminates static & adds healthy shine while leaving hair with added volume & body. daily leave-in tonic For protection Sunflower seed oil Ultra-light leave-in spray conditioner with an oil-free formula that gives hair an instant boost of energy & soothes dry, itchy scalp. Renews shine & manageability of hair. For softness Hops, bee pollen For moisture Sweet almond extract 100ml, 250ml, litre, gallon For softness Hops & bee pollen For moisture Wheat germ lipids, sweet almond oil For shine Kelp 400ml conditioning balm Intensive Crème Conditioner that deeply replenishes, remoisturises & restructures dry, damaged hair. For moisture Algae & deep conditioners For softness Golden seal For vitality Rosemary 100ml, 250ml, 460ml & litre Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:42 pm Page 31 ULTRA-HYDRATING SYSTÈME COLOR CARE SYSTÈME EARTH TONES Nourishes very dry or thick, coarse hair Protects colour-treated hair Colour refreshing conditioners ultra-hydrating shampoo color care shampoo Gently cleanses the hair & controls unwanted volume with Biolage Ultra-Hydrating botanical complex to leave hair soft, shiny & smooth. Helps prevent colour-fading, using natural anti-oxidants that leave hair shiny & silky smooth. Helps maintain the ‘first day vibrancy’ of your haircolour longer with rich pigments inspired by the earth. A unique botanical complex recharges shine & deeply conditions. Colour, elasticity & lustre are renewed, while hair is sealed to protect from colour loss. For cleansing Lemongrass For cleansing Quillaja saponaria, sage & lemongrass For moisture & to control unwanted volume Wheatgerm lipids For moisture Wheat germ lipids & almond oil 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, litre For softness Chamomile & bee pollen For shine Pollen extract & kelp ultra-hydrating balm color care conditioner For moisture & to control unwanted volume Wheatgerm lipids Preserves the longevity & radiance of colour-treated hair while sealing the cuticle to lock in colour & intensify shine. 75ml, 250ml, 500ml For softness Golden seal For vitality Rosemary All packs 150ml 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, litre, gallon Re-charge hair with intense hydration to lock out humidity & frizz. Hair is deeply moisturised, soft, shiny & manageable. For softness Lemongrass For moisture Algae & deep conditioners For moisture Protein-rich conditioners For protection Sunflower seed oil, natural antioxidants & UV filters For vitality Nettles & panthenol VIOLET Maintains cool blonde tones by helping to eliminate brassiness on light to medium blonde hair. LIGHT GOLD Maintains gold tones on light blonde to light brown hair. COPPER Maintains copper tones on light to medium red & brown hair. TRUE RED Maintains true red tones on medium to dark red & brown hair. NATURAL BROWN Maintains natural brown tones on medium to dark brown hair. For shine Pollen extract & kelp 100ml, 250ml, 400ml, litre 31 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:42 pm Page 32 B E A U T Y I N S P I R E D B Y N AT U R E FORTIFYING SYSTÈME SUNSORIALS Strengthens weak, over-worked hair Summer hair defence fortifying shampoo after sun shampoo Begins strengthening hair with ceramides as it gently cleanses, without drying hair or scalp. An intensive moisturising shampoo that removes sea salt and chlorine whilst restoring hydration and shine. For strength Cerafusion™ technology sun repair treatment 250ml, 500ml & litre fortifying conditioner Infuses more ceramides to fortify the hair while botanical extracts deeply condition. Adds manageability, silkiness & shine. For manageability, silkiness & shine Hibiscus, kelp & lemongrass 250ml 150ml An intensive conditioning cream to help mend hair exposed to sun, chlorine and sea salt. Adds soothing moisture. protective hair oil 150ml A water repellent mist that helps prevent drying affects of sun, chlorine and sea water. Adds softness, shine and moisture. 250ml, 500ml & litre fortifying leave-in treatment Adds intensive infusion of strengthening ceramides for extremely weakened hair. To repair damaged hair intensive infusion of strengthening ceramides 250ml & litre protective hair non-oil 150ml A lightweight mist that helps provide protection and strength. Leaves hair clean, natural and guarded against the elements. protective sun gel 150ml A lightweight water-resistant styler that creates a defined high shine look. Discover the power of botanicals Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:42 pm Page 33 STYLING STYLING FINISHING All hair types All hair types All hair types hydro-foaming styler gelée complete control hairspray A moisture-rich conditioning foam that transforms into a high-gloss styling fluid. A unique long-lasting fluid styling gel for superb control. A firm-hold, water-free aerosol hairspray that provides natural shine and volume. For superb control Allspice, nettle & scientific ingredients For long-lasting control Hibiscus, mallow & scientific ingredients 400ml 250ml To repel moisture & humidity Red sage & nettle with anhydrous (water-free) fixatives For protection UV Sunscreen defining elixir TOUCHABLY SOFT STYLING A lightweight gel, with botanical extracts & alcohol-free fixatives, for creating flexible texture. crème-wax finishing spritz A luxurious fluffy whip texture with amazing conditioning benefits. Contains Rice Milk, Bamboo Milk and Milk Thistle. A non-aerosol finishing spray ideal for working in last minute style details. 125ml For protection UV Sunscreen curl defining crème 400ml A lightweight luxurious emulsion for your curls. Contains rice milk, bamboo milk and milk thistle. shine renewal For definition & shape Chamomile, passion flower & alcohol-free fixatives 100ml, 453g thermal-active setting spray A non-aerosol setting spray that delivers the strength of a wet set on dry or damp hair. For long-lasting control Nettle, cucumber & heat-activated fixatives 250ml 236ml smoothing shine milk A lightweight mist that smoothes and shines. Contains rice milk, bamboo milk and milk thistle. 300ml For ultimate hold Hops, hibiscus & ultimate-hold fixatives Botanically enriched, and alcohol-free, with specially formulated silicones to create brilliant, healthy looking shine. For shine Meadowfoam seed & specially formulated silicones 100ml 250ml 33 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 34 Create real volume from the inside volumizing system Tired of fine, dull, lifeless hair? In need of Great Body? Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 35 CLEANSE 1 WEIGHTLESS volume, irresistible GLAMOUR Gently opens cuticle and deposits a weightless, naturally derived polymer. Rinsing closes the cuticle, bonding the polymer inside. STYLING root lifter Builds body and thickness where the hair needs it most – the roots. volumizing shampoo 250ml A weightless patented technology complex that deposits a naturally derived polymer, cleansing and adding volume. foam volumizer 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1.5 litres color XL volumizing shampoo With Advanced Polymer Technology, formulated to provide Xtra volume, Xtra shine, Xtra long colour wear. 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1.5 litres 3 CONDITION 2 Further closes the cuticle, whilst conditioning deeply, locking in real volume. volumizing conditioner Locks in naturally derived polymers, sealing the cuticle. Removes tangles, adds brilliant shine, giving hair maximum volume and condition. 100ml, 250ml,1.5 litres volumising conditioner leave-in An incredibly light volumising foam that gives hair maximum volume as it adds style support. 250ml hair spray Fast drying, water-free formula, delivers instant strong, flexible hold. 300ml spray-gel Provides tousled texture looks with turned-up volume. 150ml A lightweight, leave-in conditioner that locks in the volumising benefits of Amplify volumizing shampoo in weightless conditions. gel-wax 100ml, 236ml 150ml Boosts body like a gel, defines and shines like a wax. 35 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 36 Smooth straight hair smoothing system Lock out dampness and humidity, lock in sleek sensous style NO Frizz Say goodbye to flyaways! Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 37 1 CLEANSE Using the 4-STEP smoothing system… Micro-balances moisture levels inside the hair with Arginine. SMOOTH & PROTECT smoothing shampoo Gently cleanses as it replenishes moisture and softens texture. Creates a hydrophobic barrier around the hair that repels dampness and humidity. 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1.5 litres CONDITION Optimises and locks in moisture. 2 smoothing conditioner Contains wheat proteins to improve manageability, add shine and seal the cuticle, leaving hair soft and silky. 100ml, 250ml, 1.5 litres 3 styling cream lite/extreme Provides versatile styling with thermal protection. Adds flexible control, direction and glossy shine. 150ml iron smoother Protects against heat damage (up to 230°C) and humidity. Control frizz, add shine and improve hair condition. LOCK IN 4 Smooth style locked in for lasting frizz management and glossy finish. water-free lockdown Smooth styles locked in, for lasting frizz management and an intense glossy finish. 50ml, 125ml sealing serum Preventative and reparative treatment for split ends. Seal and smooth, sleeker styling. 50ml 250ml deep moisture masque Concentrated emollients penetrate very coarse, dry hair and lock in moisture. Alternate with smoothing conditioner, or use daily depending on hair’s level of dryness 250ml LOCKS OUT dampness and humidity and LOCKS IN sleek sensuous style! 37 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 38 Protect salon colour radiantly luminating system Afraid your colour could lose its sparkle? Rich colour, shine & vitality Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 39 CLEANSE Gently removes dulling residue. Strengthens hair from within. protective shampoo Gently removes dulling residue from hair cuticle while strengthening from within. 250ml, 500ml,1.5 litres Prevent fade and ILLUMINATE COLOUR 1 CONDITION 2 Forms a protective barrier on the hair cuticle, helps prevent colour fading. Provides a higher concentration of conditioning agents. Leaves hair manageable, healthy and shiny. protective conditioner Forms a protective barrier on the hair cuticle to help prevent colour fading. 250ml,1.5 litres protective masque Provides a higher concentration of conditioning agents. Leaves hair manageable, healthy and shiny. 150ml, 500ml 39 Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 40 Make your curls spring to life! Looking for luscious locks? Define and tame your curls Cutting Techniques v9 6/4/05 12:43 pm Page 41 From CLEANSE to CONDITION… 1 CLEANSE 2 curl.life conditioner • Delicately cleanses the hair. • Hair is infused with a Spring Fit Complex™. • Lays down the foundation for healthier, more defined controllable curls • Detangle and moisturises the hair • Add body, strength and shine to the hair • Provides curl structure and curl pattern memory 250ml, 500ml 250ml, 400ml SPRING TO LIFE! CONTROL contouring milk CONDITION curl.life shampoo … Make your curls 3 (fine/normal hair) • Ultra-lightweight styling wax and styling polymers control frizz without weighing hair down • Provides lasting curl definition and body 150ml contouring cream (thick/coarse hair) • Provides moisture and support to control volume and frizz • Provides lasting curl definition • Adds shine to hair 150ml Spring Fit Complex™ Fusion of curl defining styling polymers and conditioning agents. Designed to enhance curls at every step of the way. 41 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:03 am Page 42 Edgier made easier OF THE TRADE VERSATILE MATERIALS LET YOU MANIPULATE REALITY. TWIST IT. SHATTER IT. RESHAPE IT. BETRAY IT. CREATE SOFT ILLUSIONS OR DISTRESSED EFFECTS. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:03 am Page 43 messy matte clay texture blast spray extra strong hairspray MESS. SEPARATE. CHUNK. TEXTURE, INTERRUPTED. DIRTY MATTE IMPACT. FOR THAT AFTER-HOURS LOOK. ROUGH-UP TEXTURE. SCRUNCH IN SHAPE. LOCK IN CURLS. EXPAND ON DEMAND. FREEZE STYLE IN A FLASH. FIRM ATTITUDE, NO STIFFNESS. GLOBAL NOZZLE, ALL OVER TOUCH. 150ml 400ml 75ml extra strong volumising mousse luminous creme smoother wax-gel combo GLOSS. POLISH. SMOOTH. CALM FRIZZ. FIX FLYAWAYS. PULSATE WITH SHINE. GLOW YOUR OWN WAY. ALTERED STATES. WAX ON DRY HAIR. GEL ON WET. CHUNK, PIECE, DEFINE OR SEPARATE. MOULD, SCULPT, CREATE SLICK CONTROL. VOLUME, BODY AND LASTING SHINE FOR HAIR. HELPS CREATE ELEVATED STYLES. ENABLES EXPRESS BLOW-DRYING. 100ml 250ml 100ml piece-out wax strong twisted gel STIFF HAIR UP. STRAP IT DOWN. CREATE POINTS, TWISTS, DREADS. FIBRE-SPIKED GEL. INTENSE PARTY-PROOF HOLD. 150ml SHAPE. SHATTER. SHINE. PIECE IT UP. FLICK IT OUT. HARD WAX, FLUID MOVES KICKED OUT HAIR. 75ml strong hold, non-aerosol spray strong hold gel SHATTERED, SCULPTED STYLES, PROVIDES STRONG HOLD. ADD TEXTURE TO LONG HAIR OR STYLE DEFINITION TO SHORT HAIR. FOR THE FINAL TOUCH,OR USE TO ACCENTUATE MOVEMENT. HEAT PROTECTION PROVIDED WHILE STRAIGHTENING HAIR. 250ml strong fixing spray WORK AND RE-WORK THE HAIR. EASY TO USE, BRUSHABLE CONTROL AND HOLD. PROVIDES STRONG HOLD FOR CONTROLLED HAIR WITH LASTING STYLE. 400ml BOOST IT. CREATE IT. DEFINE IT. CAPTURE IT. 200ml 43 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:03 am Page 44 Prescriptive care right from the start A complete prescriptive range for all your haircare needs. Easy to prescribe with products that do what they say. … The Alphatine Complex NEEDS: Chemical services can deplete key amino acids that provide hair with moisture and protein SOLUTION: THE ALPHATINE COMPLEX replaces the 5 key amino acids RESULTS: Maximum moisture, body & shine NATURALLY BEAUTIFUL HAIR FOR LONGER Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:03 am Page 45 SIMPLY CLEAN REGIME UNIQUE technology in every product simply clean shampoo • Provides extra body with its gentle, yet thorough cleansing action • Protects and maintains hair’s moisture balance 500ml simply silk detangling rinse • 100% oil free. Restores moisture balance without adding weight • Leaves hair feeling and shining like silk 400ml & litre COLOUR PRESERVE REGIME essential colour preserve shampoo NOURISHING REGIME • Contains anti-oxidants to help prevent colour fade • Protects hair’s balance of moisture and natural oils 500ml & litre essential colour preserve revitalizing conditioner nourishing shampoo • Lactic acid and other amino acids help reverse the effect of chemical, thermal and styling abuse • Gives hair smooth feel and improves combability • Maintains tones longer • Contains hydrolysed wheat proteins to restore moisture and help strengthen hair 100ml & 450ml 500ml nutrient rich conditioner • Cationic conditioners penetrate deeply to give intense conditioning and superior moisturisation • Vitamin B5 provides improved pliability and healthy-looking lustre 100ml & 450ml essential colour preserve leave-in conditioner • Contains free-radical scavengers to keep colour fresher and help guard against fading • Improves moisture balance and manageability 350ml 45 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:03 am Page 46 SUPPLEMENTAL SHAMPOOS PERM FRESH REGIME alternate action clarifying shampoo • Improves curl formation and retention • Imparts incredible body and shine • Anionic and amphoteric cleansing system lifts away build-up without stripping natural oils • Chelating agents help counteract chlorine and mineral deposits • Ideal for swimmers 473ml, litre 500ml, litre, gallon perm fresh shampoo perm fresh moisture supply simply stop anti-dandruff shampoo • A unique moisturising hydrator replenishes moisture and nutrients • Strengthens with hydrolysed keratin, panthenol and wheat proteins • Provides effective relief from itching and flaking associated with dandruff • Gentle cleansing agents, soothe and refresh the scalp 100ml, 450ml 250ml perm fresh leave-in treatment so silver shampoo • Pliaphylic complex locks moisture, nutrients and proteins into the cuticle • Low pH closes the cuticle delivering shine and lustre • A creamy violet lather neutralises brassy tones and enhances highlights on blonde, highlighted and bleached hair • Eliminates dulling yellow tones in grey and white hair 350ml 500ml, litre Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:04 am Page 47 INTENSIVE TREATMENTS instacure leave-in treatment • Porosity equaliser smoothes cuticle damage, repairs over-porous hair and promotes a healthy scalp • Hydrolysed proteins add strength, resilience and moisture balance • Detangles for easier combing STYLING FINISHING sculpting glaze freeze spray • Versatile medium hold styling aid • Incredible body and long-lasting style retention • Contains thermal protectants and PABA-free sunscreen • Provides long-lasting style retention for touchable, brushable hair • Adds a glossy, highly reflective finish with humidity resistance • Superb hold with PABA-free sunscreen 400ml 400ml 100ml, 400ml, litre proforma hair spray body and strength reconstructor • Fortifies fine, limp and over-stressed hair • Wheat amino acids and cationic proteins bond to damaged sites, re-creating structural links and reinforcing hair’s inner strength 236ml 5+ protopak restructurizing treatment • Photeric holding system creates high-volume styles • Provides maximum humidity resistance and intense shine 400ml Prescriptive CARE right from the start glossifier hair polish • Controls static and frizz as it maximises shine • Will not build-up or weigh hair down • Contains PABA-free sunscreen 100ml • Restores moisture balance, elasticity and strength by infusing a concentration of silk micro-proteins • Penetrates deeply to repair inner damage caused by excessive chemical services, environment and thermal styling damage 453g 47 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:04 am Page 48 Invent your style D E S I G N I N G S Y S T E M It’s all about style. Shape it. Shine it. Define it. Take it as far as you dare. Advanced performance Vavoom styling tools let you take control of your style. Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:04 am Page 49 1 It’s STYLING YOURS to define! volumizing foam • A lightweight foam that adds body, volume and lift • Leaves hair shiny and conditioned 250ml smoothing gel • A lightweight moist heat activated gel designed to style away curl, wave or frizz with blow drying or setting • Delivers strong, flexible styling control for lasting results, even in the worst humidity 250ml 2 DESIGNING morph cream wax • Water based wax ‘morphs’ into a light creme • Gives hair elastic hold and soft texture 75ml beam shine gloss • Luminous gel polishes, shines and defines • Separates ends and pieces with soft definitions 50g 3 FINISHING Freezing Spray • An extra-firm spray that locks in volume, texture and lift • Unique water-free formula dries instantly • Delivers long-lasting hold and superior humidity resistance 400ml 49 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:04 am Page 50 Matrix Technical Hotline Number UK: 0800 387 608 Ireland: 1800 509 472 Matrix • London • W6 8AZ • 020 8762 4060 Cutting Techniques v8 5/4/05 10:04 am Page 51 CUTTING TECHNIQUES CUTTING SYSTEM