Subcultures - G. Prestia

Fashion and Tradition
Subcultures
Final Report
by
1
Participating countries:
Great Britain
Greece
Italy
Poland
A
Spain
Turkey
Final report, summarizing the views presented by
the five
participating countries on the topic
B
"Subcultures"
Vibo Valentia, Italy
December 1, 2, 3 2010
2
C
Great Britain
Great Britain presented the subculture of Morris Dancers.
The Morris is an ancient tradition that has survived and evolved
over the course of many centuries. Morris dancing is a
celebration, a display of dance and music performed at seasonal
festivals and holidays to banish the dark of winter, celebrate the
warmth and fertility of summer, and bring in autumn's golden
harvest.
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The dancing is very lively and accompanied by an accordion
player, a melodeon or fiddle player or a noisy band with a drum
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Morris dancers wear bright clothes and leap in the air waving
handkerchiefs and sticks with bells jingling from their clothing.
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In Nuneaton, Warwickshire, where the Great Britain delegation
comes from, they have their own Morris group:
The Anker Morris Men
Here are a few pictures of the Nuneaton Morris group.
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Greece
Greece described the features of several contemporary
subcultures.
Heavy Metal, first appeared in the 1970s and inspired by famous
bands like Iron Maiden and Metallica. Members of the subculture
can be recognized because they typically wear black leather
jacket - usually sleeveless, black leather pants or jeans, black
leather wristbands or chains. They have long hair and sometimes
wear black and white make-up.
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The Goth subculture has no pronounced political messages or
cries for social activism. The subculture, born in Germany between
the 1980s and early 1990s, is marked by its emphasis on
individualism and tolerance for diversity. Typical gothic
appearance includes a pale complexion, dyed black hair,
dark eyeliner, dark nail polish and lipstick, black vintage clothing.
Styles are often borrowed from the Elizabethan, Victorian or
medieval period and often express pagan, occult, or other
religious imagery such as pentacles or ankhs. Goths love lace
and sometimes have piercings.
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The hippie subculture was originally a youth movement born in the
United States during the mid-1960s, swiftly spreading to other
countries around the world.
Hippies rejected all conventional desires for wealth, power, health,
and fame by living a simple life free from all possessions. They were
against political and social orthodoxy, choosing an ideology that
favored peace, love and personal freedom.
Hippies wore long hair. Women put on flowers or went for the
Pocahontas headband. Men had beards or moustaches, but
never nicely trimmed. Leather sandals were worn for all occasions.
They identified themselves with the peace symbol.
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The punk subculture emerged in the mid 1970s. Punk ideology is
mostly concerned with individual freedom, anti-establishment
views, anti authoritarianism, and non-conformity.
Punk fashion adapted everyday objects for aesthetic effect:
ripped clothing was held together by safety pins or wrapped with
tape; ordinary clothing was customized by embellishing it with
marker or adorning it with paint; safety pins and razor blades were
used as jewelry. Also popular have been leather, rubber, and
vinyl.
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Italy
Italy described the subculture of Ultras. Ultras are a type of sports
fans renowned for their fanatical support and elaborate displays.
They are predominantly European followers of football teams.
Ultras express their support for their club the use of flares (primarily
in tifo choreography), vocal support in large groups and the
displaying of banners at football stadiums, in order to encourage
their own team and to intimidate opposing players and
supporters.
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Ultras groups are usually based around a core group of founders
or leaders with smaller subgroups organized by location,
friendship, or political stance. They use various styles and sizes of
banners and flags bearing the name and symbols of their group.
Some ultras groups sell their own merchandise to raise funds for
performing displays.
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The country most associated with the ultras movement is Italy. The
first Italian ultras groups were formed in 1951, including the
Fedelissimi Granata of Torino. The term Ultras was used as a name
for the first time in 1969 when supporters of Sampdoria formed the
Ultras Tito Cucchiaroni and fans of Torino formed the Ultras
Granata.
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What all Ultras have in common is their desire to support their club
or team while enjoying the experience, the extreme pleasure they
gain in providing that support creatively for a full 90 minutes – both
acoustically and visually – and to prepare these activities in the
week before the game. Accordingly, what counts for most Ultras is
not only the match result or the league in which their club or team
plays but, rather, their committed support to the club, and the
activities before, during and after the match.
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Although most European Ultras do not wear the traditional fan
clothing and accessories because they reject the excessive
marketing of football and its commercialization, they do have a
certain dress code that displays their group identity and clearly
distinguishes them from outsiders. Most groups even possess their
own range of clothing, with polo shirts, rugby shirts, sweatshirts, Tshirts, caps and scarves bearing the group‟s logo or design.
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Ultra is not just to be seen as another type of fans‟ group inside a
stadium, it is a lifestyle and subculture whose different forms of
expression reach well beyond the actual match day. If they are
able to, they travel to every away game, they organize events
and various social projects around the club. Unfortunately , the
actions of ultras groups can occasionally be overly extreme and
are sometimes influenced by political ideologies or racism.
Ultras consider themselves as “extreme” fans of their club. Having
said that and contrary to the dominant public opinion on ultras,
this “extreme” is not to be seen as something negative in the first
place but rather in the sense of being “very passionate”. To put it
very briefly: in other areas of society there are Hipsters and Punks,
in football there are Ultras.
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Poland
Polish subcultures of 60‟, 70‟, 80‟ and 90‟
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Bikiniarze (Teddy Boys)
Bikiniarze were the first after-war polish subculture. They were
formed in the 50s, based upon the Teddy Boys” subculture from
the USA.
They were considered by the communist government as enemies
of the state, because of their fascination in western culture.
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Bikiniarze dressed, much like the Teddy Boys, in very elegant
outfits:
- Suede Jackets
- Leather shoes
- Usually ties
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The Bikiniarze
The Bikiniarze were interested in rock n‟ roll
artists were:
– Elvis Presley
– Little Richard
– Bill Haley
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music. Their favourite
Hippies
The Hippies were a worldwide movement of nature-loving, potsmoking youngsters. This subculture originated in the 1960s and
went on to the 70s.
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Punks
Punks are a rebel and anarchist subculture,
who don‟t agree with any rules. They rebel
against laws, routine, big corporations –
they just can‟t stand any control.
Punks sport dark, eccentric clothes and
clumsy hairstyle
The punks were into a very
fast and rebellious rock music
called Punk Rock.
The most popular polish punk
bands were: Dezerter, Aya
RL, T. Love, Kult, Tilt and Siekiera.
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Dresiarze
Dresiarze is a primitive, agressive subculture based on the
worship of money. They don‟t esteem any law, just like
they don‟t esteem people. They use trash-language in
witch they use vulgarisms like a comma. They are proud from that
they „Hate police” witch is like a life motto for them. Sometimes
they are mistaken with skinheads which are actually a totally
different subculture.
Dresiarze wears brand, tracksuit clothes for show,
sometimes gold chains or other jawelery with which
they want to show how „cool” they are. Most of
them are bold.
They listen worthless
music like: Disco-Polo,
Polish Rap or Techno.
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Spain
Also Spain described the characteristics of contemporary
subcultures, defined as „urban tribes‟, and told us about the most
common subcultures in their region, Castellò. Urban tribes, are
groups of people from all over the world, that share the same
ways of thinking and feeling, and show similar dressing styles,
habits, and gathering places. Some of the most common urban
tribes in the Castellò region are the Emos, the Mods, the „Pijos‟,
and the „Lolailos‟.
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The Emo subculture is characterized by a negative view of life,
influenced by the modern society „that cares more about money
than about people‟s needs‟. They are non-conformists and their
haircuts usually cover part of their face.
Mods, contraction for modernists, reinterpret the lifestyle of the
50s. Their fetish is the Lambretta motorbike, and they wear simple
lines with retro complements. They drink branded beer, support FC
Barcelona, and the left-wing party in Catalonia.
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Pijos are a growing group in Spain. The most representative
feature of this subculture is wealth, and to display wealth. For this
reason they wear expensive branded clothes and show off
expensive hobbies. Women use to wear gold jewels and have
long hair. Accessories, such as sunglasses and watches, are very
important, and so are expensive cars.
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Lolailos are a typical Spanish subculture, partly originating from
Andalusia mixed with Gipsy influences. They have a male
chauvinist view and show off golden accessories. They listen to
deep Spanish music, and wear short haircuts.
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Turkey
The Turkish delegation described the subculture of Gypsies.
Historically, Gypsies have been sometimes called “stateless”,
sometimes called “landless”, or even the “forgotten people”. In
the Turkish language, they are called Çingene. There are three
origins of Gypsies in the world:
Kaldera
Gitano
Manush
The ones in Turkey are coming from “Kaldera” clan. Most of them
came to Turkey during the World War I.
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They reside not only in the biggest cities of Turkey but also in rural
areas. In the entire world live 3 or 4 millions of Gypsies, and of
these, about 500.000 live in Turkey. Gypsies are nomadic people.
They move from one place to another and seldom use modern
vehicles.
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There is no unity in Gypsy culture. Commonly, they are bounded
to their families, they believe in “Del” (God) and “Beng” (Devil)
and they have belief of faith. They have some rites in the rituals of
blessing, wedding and burial.
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They are cheerful people who like colorful clothes, jewelries and
flowers. There are some TV series based on Gypsy lifestyle.
Still they do jobs like shoe shining, but many of them are musicians.
Musical education begins at early ages within the family, and
there are many street bands of Gypsies.
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With the contribution of:
King Edward VI College
King Edward Road, Nuneaton – Warwickshire - CV11 4BE
(Great Britain)
Kalimasia Senior High School, 82100 Chios
(Greece)
Istituto Professionale di Stato per l‟Industria e l‟Artigianato “G. Prestia”
Via G. Fortunato, 89900 Vibo Valentia VV
(Italy)
Gimnazjum Społeczne Milanowskiego Towarzystwa Edukacyjnego
Brzozowa 1, 05-822 Milanówek
(Poland)
IES Alfons XIII
Calle Conselleria de Cultura,12194 Vall d'Alba, Castellón
(Spain)
Haydar Akçelik Anadolu Meslek ve Kız Meslek Lisesi
Eyüp, 34050 ,Nişancı, Istanbul
(Turkey)
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