Wine Advocate Notes - Domaine La Barroche

Robert Parker’s wine advocate
Jeb Dunnuck
October 2015
Robert Parker’s wine advocate
Jeb Dunnuck
February 2015
Robert Parker’s wine advocate
Jeb Dunnuck
October 2014
One of the new superstars of the appellation, Julien Barrot’s Domaine la Barroche is fashioning some of the most singular wines in the world. While in the past he released a number
of cuvées, the portfolio has been trimmed to just two wines, a traditional Châteauneuf called Signature, and an old vine, 100% Grenache Cuvée aptly named Pure. The Signature is
based largely on Grenache, yet includes 10-15% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, and a
splash of other permitted varieties. It sees partial destemming and both pump overs and
punch downs during fermentation, and the Grenache is then aged all in old casks and the
Syrah and Mourvedre aged, on lees, in 1-3 year old Burgundy barrels. The cuvée Pure comes from a single plot of 100-year-old Grenache vines, planted all in sandy soils, that are
located at the intersection of the lieux-dits Grand Pierre, Rayas and Pointu. Vinified all in
concrete tank, with partial destemming and only seeing pump overs during fermentation, it
spends 18 months in a single old foudre prior to bottling. While these 2012s and 2013s are
a step back from some of the top efforts from this estate, they’re all rock-solid in the vintages and highly recommended.
2012 Domaine la Barroche
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Signature
2012 Domaine la Barroche
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pure
Rating : 91
Drink : 2015—2025
Rating : 95
Drink : 2016—2027
The 2012s Châteauneuf du Pape Signature
is a seamless, graceful red that has pretty
kirsch, blackberry, spice and garrigue to go
with a forward, supple style on the palate.
Made from 65% Grenache, 16% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah and 6% other permitted
varieties, it has sweet tannin, a light, clean
texture and keeps you coming back for
another drink. Enjoy it over the coming decade.
One of the greatest expressions of pure
Grenache out there, Barrot’s 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Pure comes from a single plot
(near Grand Pierre, Rayas and Pointu) of
100+-year-old Grenache vines that are
planted in pure sand soils. While this wine
sometimes gets classified as a modern Châteauneuf , the reality is it’s traditional all
the way, with only partial destemming, vinification in concrete vats and aging all in
foudre. It offers up a smorgasbord of kirsch
liqueur, sweet cherries, spice, incense and
flowers, and this is followed by a fabulous
pure, elegant, yet rich and concentrated
effort that has no hard edges, sweet tannin
and blockbuster length. It’s one of the stars
of the vintage and will thrill for 10-15
years.
2013 Domaine la Barroche
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Signature
Rating : 89-91
Drink : 2015—2025
The only Châteauneuf made by Julien in the
vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Signature checks in as a blend of 55% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah and the
rest Cinsault, Vacarrese and other permitted varieties. Coming from a variety of terrors, partially destemmed and with the Grenache aged in old casks and the Mourvedre
and Syrah on lees in 1-3 year old Burgundy
barrels, it’s a brilliant success in the vintage
and offers serious ripeness in its black
cherry, blackberry, ground herbs and dried
spice-driven bouquet. Medium to fullbodied, pure, elegant and layered, it has
rocking sweetness to its tannin and ample
length. Drink it anytime over the coming
decade.
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Jeb Dunnuck
November 2013
These awesome wines are made by the young, yet incredibly talented, Julien Barrot.
Now producing just two cuvees from his 32 acres of sandy soils, he first took over the winemaking in 2002 and has since produced one spectacular vintage after another (don’t miss his
2010s!).
The winemaking here is very traditional with some stem inclusion and aging all in tank and very
old foudre. The wines typically show rich, voluptuous, yet elegant profiles and are relatively accessible in their youth, yet also age gracefully.
2012 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Signature
2012 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 90-92
Drink : 2015-2024
Rating : 94-96
Drink : 2015—2027
The 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Signature (same
blend and elevage as the 2011) is mediumbodied, elegant and focused, with sweet black
raspberry, candied flowers and spice aromas and
flavors. It should gain a smidge more weight once
bottled and have 10-12 years of longevity.
Always showing lighter and more elegant from barrel, this cuvee gains a fair bit of weight and richness
once bottled. The 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure
(97% Grenache and 3% other permitted varieties,
from 100+-year-old-vines located in the Grand Pierre lieu-dit near Rayas) is a finesse-driven, seamless and voluptuously textured effort that gives up
notions of dried cherries, rose petal, sweet licorice
and ground pepper. More minerality emerges with
time in the glass and this fantastic barrel sample
never puts a foot wrong. It should benefit from a
handful of years in cellar once released and have
12-15 years or more of total longevity.
2011 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Signature
2011 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 92
Drink : 2013—2021
Rating : 95
Drink : 2014—2026
A gorgeous base cuvee, the 2011 Chateauneuf
du Pape Signature checks in as a blend of 65%
Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre and
Cinsault that’s aged all in tank and larger foudre.
Dishing out loads of black cherry, toasted spice,
red licorice and underbrush, this medium to fullbodied beauty is seamless, silky and refined on
the palate, with ultra-fine tannin. Already superb,
it should nevertheless evolve gracefully on its balance and harmony.
An undeniable success in the vintage, and one of
the top wines, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure
is a spectacular blend of almost all Grenache, all
from sandy soils and 100+-year-old vines, that was
aged all in an older foudre. Rayas-like with its perfumed kirsch, rose petal, dried spice and pepper
aromas and flavors, this medium to full-bodied wine
has beautiful mid-palate depth, a pure silk texture
and building tannin on the finish. Incredibly rich in
the vintage, it should age beautifully for 12-15 years
or more.
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Robert Parker
October 2012
The brilliant Julien Barrot has decided to produce only two cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape
from the family’s nearly 32 acres of vineyards.
It is amazing what Julien has accomplished since he began working at Domaine La Barroche.
The first great vintage produced by Barrot was 2005, and he has continued with a remarkable
succession of riveting wines.
One of the world’s greatest red wines is his 300 or so cases of Pure that come from a lieu-dit
called Grand Pierre next to the famed Chateau Rayas. The Pure is 100% Grenache from 105year-old vines.
The cuvee called Signature includes an intriguing component of less than 10% 70-year-old
Cinsault, which gives the wine an extraordinary fragrance as well as a delicacy that can be
missing in these southern Rhone wines.
2010 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 99
Drink : 2011—2036
The monumental 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure is a candidate for perfection after
several more years of bottle age. It boasts an inky/ruby/purple color with extraordinary
“purity,” along with notes of spring flowers, luxurious levels of black raspberry and
kirsch liqueur, licorice and mulberries. Layers of flavor hit the palate with exceptional
freshness and definition as well as teeth-rattling intensity and power. This extraordinary tour de force is one of the greatest wines made in the world today. It should evolve easily for 15-20+ years. I have no idea what the alcohol levels are in these cuvees,
but I’m sure they are pushing 16% or more. This is a legendary wine!
2010 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Signature
Rating : 92
Drink : 2012—2027
A sensational effort, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits jammy black raspberry
and black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, camphor, incense and hits of truffles as
well as pepper. With velvety tannins, abundant glycerin, a nicely delineated mouthfeel, a sumptuous texture and a long finish, this 2010 should drink well for 12-15+
years.
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Robert Parker
October 2011
Young Julien Barrot’s three cuvees of bottled 2009s showed better this year than they did last
year – always a fabulous sign. I tend to underrate these wines initially, only to add points after they spend time in the bottle. Barrot is one of the young turks that appears to no longer
be “up and coming,” but has arrived. This 30-acre estate is spread throughout the appellation, and in most vintages, three cuvees are produced – Terroir, Signature and Pure, the limited production, remarkable, 100% Grenache cuvee made from century old vines planted in
pure sandy soil from the lieu-dit known as Grand Pierre. The Terroir and Pure are aged in foudre and the Signature in foudre and steel tank. 2010 appears to be another great vintage for
proprietor Julien Barrot.
2009 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 96
Drink : 2011—2026
A spectacular effort, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure comes from 100+-year-old vines
planted in pure sand and was made from absurdly low yields. Its bouquet smells like a
cocktail of framboise and strawberry liqueur. With wonderful “purity,” stunning opulence, a
sumptuous mouthfeel, a full-bodied, layered finish and exquisite aroma and flavor intensity,
this is one of the most profound examples of old vine 100% Grenache one will find anywhere in the world. Enjoy it over the next 15+ years.
2009 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Signature
Rating : 93
Drink : 2011—2026
Even better is the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Signature, which possesses the densest
ruby/purple color of this trio. Expansive, broad notes of blueberries, blackberries, kirsch
and garrigue are found in this full-bodied, sexy, opulent, stunning Chateauneuf du Pape.
The forwardness and lusciousness of the 2009 vintage is brilliantly well-displayed in this
offering. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.
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Robert Parker
October 2009
Domaine La Barroche in many ways typifies what has happened in Chateauneuf du Pape over the last decade. Until 2003, the Barrot family (who can trace their origins back to the 1600s in the village) sold all of
their wine in bulk to negociants. But then young son Julian was given responsibility and, in a very short period, a succession of brilliant wines has emerged, starting with the 2004 and building on that success with
the 2005s, 2006s, and 2007s. This is not a small estate, totaling just under 32 acres, and at present there is
the potential for four very different styles of Chateauneuf du Pape to be produced.
2007 Chateauneuf Du Pape Pure . Assuming one can find any of the 500 or so cases that are made,
the wine “to die for” is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure. I have a tendency to underrate this wine, as
both the 2005, which I find pure perfection, and the nearly equal-in-quality 2006, both put on weight and
complexity after a year or two in the bottle, but there is not a whole lot of room to improve in 2007. Coming
from the very sandy soils of the lieu-dit in Chateauneuf du Pape known as Grand Pierre, this is 100% Grenache from vines that are about 110 years of age! Aged both in foudre and tank prior to being bottled unfiltered, in its three versions to date, it is undeniably one of the greatest expressions of pure Grenache in the
world. An awesome wine with an extraordinary nose of melted licorice, spring flowers, black cherries, and
black currants, the wine hits the palate with a full-bodied, thunderous impact but never, ever becomes
heavy or ponderous. It is an ethereal, super-concentrated wine of great elegance, precision, and freshness,
but with unbelievable concentration and length. Julian Barrot would say he has had very little to do with it,
and that it is all his magical terroir, which sits just to the east of the great vineyard of Rayas. How long will it last?
Certainly 100% Grenache cuvees tend to age faster than those with some Mourvedre or Syrah in the blend, but I
would think, assuming anyone of human origin can actually resist this wine, it should evolve for at least 15 or more
years. 99+
2007 Chateauneuf Du Pape Fiancee . The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Fiancee is the estate’s closest
thing to an international stye of Chateauneuf du Pape that Julian Barrot produces. A blend of equal parts
Grenache and Syrah, aged in a combination of tank and one- to two-year-old barrels, this wine is the most
tannic and backward, a saturated purple color, with notes of licorice, tar, toast, smoke, and black currants.
Full-bodied and still unevolved and youthful, this wine will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for
15-20 years. 92
2007 Chateauneuf Du Pape Signature . More structured, backward, and formidably endowed is the
2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition. Made from a blend of over 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah and
Cinsault, with some very old-vine fruit going into the blend, this wine is also aged in a combination of tank
and foudre prior to bottling. Deep plum/ruby-colored with a striking nose of loamy soil scents interwoven
with exuberant kirsch liqueur notes, licorice, and roasted Provencal herbs, the wine is backward, dense, full
-bodied, and very pure, with a brilliant texture and length. This wine will benefit from another 1-2 years of
cellaring and drink well for 15+ years. 92
2007 Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Terroir . The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Terroir (95% Grenache and the
rest Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault aged in foudres) comes from the estate’s youngest vines (about 20
years on average) and exhibits very sexy, ripe black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with sandalwood, fruitcake, and spice box. Opulent, full-bodied, and rich, with plenty of glycerin and fruit covering up
some silky tannins, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine is broad, savory, and best drunk over the next 10-15
years. 91
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Robert Parker
October 2008
Christian and Julien Barrot’s Domaine La Barroche burst on the wine scene with very good
2004s, and sensational 2005s, especially the out-of-this-world 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape
Pure. These are four very different styles of Chateauneuf du Pape. The Terroir cuvee comes
from the well-known sectors called Pialons and Cabrieres, and is a 95% Grenache offering
aged completely in foudre. The Fiancee, made from vineyards in Cabrieres and Terres Blanches, is a more modern-styled offering with the Grenache aged in tank and the Syrah in small
barrels. The Pure cuvee is made from 100% old vine Grenache planted in sandy soils in Pointu and Grand Pierre, not far from the sandy soils of Rayas. It is aged totally in old wood foudres.
2006 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 95
Drink : 2008-2022
The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure looks to be nearly as brilliant as the 2007.
One of the vintage’s most compelling wines, it should be drunk now and over the
next 12-14 years. Deep ruby-colored much lighter than the Fiancee, with beautiful
notes of sweet kirsch liqueur, loamy soil, licorice, spice box, and high quality cigar
tobacco, this wine is opulent, fleshy, and flamboyant with great purity. It serves
as a riveting statement to the greatness of old vine Grenache grown in sandy
soils.
2006 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Fiancée
Rating : 91
Drink : 2008—2018
The substantial, modern-styled, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2006 Chateauneuf du
Pape Fiancee is a rich, internationally-styled effort that is at complete odds with
the other Chateauneufs from proprietor Julien Barrot. Well-made with outstanding
purity, richness, and texture, full-bodied density, and sweet tannins, it should
drink well for 10+ years.
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Robert Parker
October 2007
With over 30 acres of vines in Chateauneuf du Pape, this relatively new estate, run by Christian and Julien Barrot, has served notice that they are intent on making high quality wines. In
ascending order of quality (to my way of thinking), their three cuvees include the Reserve,
Fiancee, and the magnificent 100% old vine Grenache offering called Pure, which is about as
close to a great vintage of Rayas as one will find (although Domaine Charvin is equally close
in style).
2005 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 92
Drink : 2007-2027
One of the stars of the vintage is the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure,
another magnificent example of old vine Grenache (all from 100-year-old
Grenache vines planted in sandy soils). This profound wine boasts abundant amounts of sweet black cherry and floral characteristics interwoven
with notions of crushed rocks and licorice. Full-bodied, opulent, and powerful, with good structure, an unbelievably sweet, expansive mid-palate,
and a broad, savory finish, this is truly compelling Chateauneuf du Pape at
its finest. It was completely aged in old oak foudres prior to bottling. It
should last for 15-20 years.
2005 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Fiancée
Rating : 91+
Drink : 2011—2027
Although shut down, closed, and backward at present, the 2005 Chateauneuf du
Pape Fiancee exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color as well as an intense black cherry,
black currant, smoke, graphite, and chocolate-scented perfume. In the mouth, it
is very structured, formidably tannic, and backward. This wine needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years; it should evolve for 15-20.
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Robert Parker
October 2006
A new estate to reckon with, proprietors Christian and Julien Barrot come from a good winemaking family, and I believe these are the first wines they have presented for tasting. There
are three cuvees from their 30 acres.
2005 Domaine la Barroche
Chateauneuf-Du-Pape Pure
Rating : 92
Drink : N/A
The third cuvee is truly blockbuster stuff and made from 100% Grenache
of vines over 100 years old. They all come from sandy soils, which is often
a fabulous source for old head-pruned Grenache vines in Chateauneuf du
Pape. The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Pure has a Rayas-like kirsch liqueur
and raspberry compote character of great intensity, striking elegance,
good acidity, and beautiful texture and length. Supple tannin and voluptuous quality make for quite a stunning wine.