A Study on Thanjavur Art to design a range of Jelwlry
Transcription
A Study on Thanjavur Art to design a range of Jelwlry
A STUDY ON THANJAVUR ART TO DESIGN A RANGE OF JEWELRY BY RADHIKA KISHORPURIA SUBMITTED TO NIFT IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF DESIGN DEPARTMENT OF DESIGN SPACE FACULTY GUIDE: PROF. SHARMILA J. DUA NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI 2013 i NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY Mumbai 2013 TITLE OF (Document/Thesis) By Radhika Kishorpuria M.Des. Batch Submitted by Ms. Radhika Kishorpuria to NIFT in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master in Design of the National Institute of Fashion Technology at New Delhi and hereby certify that in the judgment of the following members of jury id worth of acceptance:Name Institute/Organization Signature & Date ____________________ ____________________ _____________ ____________________ ____________________ _____________ ____________________ ____________________ _____________ ____________________ ____________________ _____________ ____________________ ____________________ _____________ ____________________ ____________________ _____________ Remarks, if any:______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ Signature of CC – Design Space Date: ii ABSTRACT Tanjore painting, also known as, Thanjavur Oviyam is a major form of classical South Indian painting from the town of Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu, India. The paintings of Thanjavur have travelled a long way, from the fresco paintings of the Chola Dynasty, to the wall hangings of today. The goal of this project is to perform an in depth study of Thanjavur Paintings art and then coming up with innovative jewelry designs. The initial research conducted was secondary research, which focused on understanding the history, materials and the technique used in the painting, the current status of the craft and finalizing on what innovative product could be made out of it. It also focused on understanding of a similar art in terms of jewelry. The next stage of research focused on understanding the current trends in jewelry around the world. The research, thus, is inclined towards developing unique jewelry out of these paintings through design exploration. iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT At the very onset of this report, I would like to offer my sincere thanks to my mentor Prof. Sharmila J. Dua for her valuable guidance to me throughout my research. I would like to thank Ms. Disha Gupta, Course Cordinator, NIFT, Mumbai for encouraging me and discussing my project and suggesting me valuable sources to get information. I am also indebted to Miss Neel Shah, Jewelry Designer also, a pass out student of NIFT, New Delhi and Mr. Jimit Shah, Jewelry designer for sharing their in-depth knowledge on Jewelry Designing. I would also express my gratitude to all the artists, who have spare their valuable time and have supported me through this project. Last but not the least; I would like to thank Juhi Verma and Abhishek Shinde for sparing their valuable time to aid me in the project. iv TABLE OF CONTENT INDEX Sr. No. Title Page no. Chapter 1- Background 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Research Objective 2 1.2.1 Aim of the research 2 1.2.2 Objectives 2 1.3 Significance 3 Chapter 2 – Review of Literature 2.1 Introduction 4 2.2 Paintings of Thanjavur 5 2.3 Who where the patrons of Thanjavur paintings? 6 2.4 Characteristic of paintings of Thanjavur 7 2.5 Religious Aspect 9 2.6 Thanjavur on exotic Media 9 Chapter 3 – Research and methodology 3.1 Methodology 11 3.2 Research Design 12 3.3 Sampling 13 3.4 Secondary Research 14 3.4.1 Study of Books and eBooks 14 3.4.2 Articles Published in newspaper and magazines 14 3.4.3 Information available online 14 3.5 Primary Research 15 Chapter 4 – Analysis 4.1 Analysis of Secondary Research 16 4.1.1 Process- tools and Raw Materials 16 4.1.2 Process- Technique of making the painting 18 4.1.3 Motif Study 21 4.2 Analysis of primary Research 24 4.2.1 Case Study and observation 24 4.2.2 Product analysis 26 4.3.1 Market research on jewelry 28 4.2.3.1 Study of contemporary jewelry inspired by 29 traditional art 4.2.3.2 World view on jewelry 31 Chapter 5 – Design process and Experimentation 5.1 Brain Storming 34 5.2 Mood Board 35 5.3 Sketch and Material Board 36 5.4 Initial Exploration 38 5.5 Final Designs 40 5.5.1 Category I 40 5.5.2 Category II 41 5.5.3 Category III 41 5.5.4 Category IV 43 5.5.5 Category V 44 5.6 Feedback 45 Chapter 6 – Conclusion 50 Bibliography 51 Glossary 53 Annexure 55 Appendix LIST OF CHARTS Chart 1: Research Design .................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Chart 2: Case study ........................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Chart 3: Brain Storming..................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. LIST OF PLATES Plate 1: Mural on the wall of The Big Temple .................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 2: Chola Period – Sixty –three Shaivaite saints, Appar. ........... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 3: Nayaka - A Popular theme, Ramas’ coronation. .................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 4: A Maratha king on his ivory throne with an impressive array of weapons.Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 5: Rama's Coronation ............................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 6: Glass Painting, Ganesha ....................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 7: Initial Sketch made on plywood........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 8: The Drawing area is first coated with single layer of chalk powder and fevicol mixture, in orderr to raise it from the base surface. ...................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 9: Finely embossed patterns with gold leaf and enhanced by Kundan along with mirror in the border are the main charm of the Thanjavur painting ..................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 10: Yali, a mythical creature .................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 11: Another variation o Yali ..................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 12: Ganesha ............................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 13: Yashoda Wih Baby Krishna ................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 14: Parrot ................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 15: Garlands/ Flowers .............................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 16: Mukut................................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 17: Shankha.............................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 18: Elephant ............................................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 19: Corner of the painting........................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 20: Chakra ................................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 21: Gaja Lakshmi ...................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 22: Ramas Pattabishegam........................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 23: Thanjavur Style Elephant Sculpture ................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 24: 3D Thanjavur Lakshmi ........................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 25: Portrait ............................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 26: Abstract Durga ................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 27: Mother Mary in Thanjavur Style ........................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 28: Thanjavur Pooja Tray ......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 29: Thanjavur Mirror................................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 30: Shiv Shakti Collection ......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 31: Monastri Collection............................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 32: Akshay Trithya Collection .................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 33: Akshay Trithya Collection .................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 34: Shiv Shakti Collection ......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 35: RadhaKrishna Miniature Set, CSK, Kolkata ........................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 36: Ganesh Miniature Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST ................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 37: Radha Krishna Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST ....................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 38: Ganesh Miniature Set, Beads, CST ..................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 39: Miniature on wood by Kramasa ........................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 40: Miniature on Marble by Kramasa ...................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 41: Miniature on wood by Kramasa ........................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 42: Lost wax Jewelry by Ruhh .................................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 43: Miniature on paper by Ruhh .............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 44: Terracotta Jewelry by Ruhh ............................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 45: Streetfsn street shot, New York 2011, Stylesight .............. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 46: Carved Figures inspiration, Stylesight Trend board, 2012 Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 47: Indian color inspired earrings, Dior ................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 48: Thanjavur Collecction: mood Board .................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 49: Sketch board 3 Initial sketches .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 50: Sketch board 4 Initial sketches .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 51: Sketch board 2 Initial sketches .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 52: Sketch board 1 Initial sketches .......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 53: Exploration on Semi-Precious Stone (Agate) ..................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 54: Exploration on Wood ......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 55: Exploration on mother of pearl ......................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 56: Initial stage of explorations of different materials (look without the gold foil)Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 57: Exploration on Different color and textures of glasses (with gold foil work and brass wire work) .......................................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 58: Initial Explorations 1 .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 59: Initial Explorations 2 .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 60: Initial Explorations 4 .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 61: Initial Explorations 3 .......................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 62: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 63: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 64: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 65: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 66: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 67: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 68: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 69: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 70: Model wearing the earring ................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 71: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 72: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 73: Model wearing the earring ................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 74: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 75: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 76: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 77: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 78: Close up view of the product ............................................. Error! Bookmark not defined. Plate 79: Model wearing the neck piece........................................... Error! Bookmark not defined. CHAPTER 1 BACKGROUND 1.1 INTRODUCTION “Painting is just another way of keeping a diary.” ― Pablo Picasso Painting is the practice of applying paint, pigment, color or other medium to a surface (support base). The medium is commonly applied to the base with a brush but other implements, such as knives, sponges, and airbrushes, can be used. Paintings may have for their support such surfaces as walls, paper, canvas, wood, glass, lacquer, clay, leaf, copper or concrete, and may incorporate multiple other materials including sand, clay, paper, gold leaf as well as objects. Painting is a mode of creative expression, and the forms are numerous. “Murals are paintings on wall and have to be considered as part of interior decoration. South India and the Thanjavur area in particular, boasts a long tradition in the painting of murals though few of these survive today.” 2 These murals in Thanjavur are done with the fresco technique. Fresco is any of several related mural painting types, done on plaster on walls or ceilings. The word fresco comes from the Italian word alfresco which derives from the Latin word for "fresh". Fresco technique consists of painting in pigment mixed with water on a thin layer of wet, fresh, lime mortar or plaster is used. 1 Thanvajur paintings refer to the distinctive visual elements, techniques and methods that characterize the movement or school that an artist is associated with. This can stem from an actual group that the artist was consciously involved with or it can be a category in which art historians have placed the painter. This painting is defined by the process. 1.2 RESEARCH OBJECTIVE The goal of this project is to perform an in depth study of Thanjavur Paintings art and then coming up with innovative jewelry designs. This research is an exploration towards a study of Thanjavur Painting. To understand the history, technique used in its making. The research was done on the brief that incorporating this style of painting would open more streams for the craft. 1.2.1 AIM OF THE RESEARCH The main objective of this research is “to carry out reflective learning of Thanjavur Paintings art and then coming up with original jewelry designs.” 1.2.2 OBJECTIVES To study and document the art of Thanjavur painting. To understand if evolution has taken place. To explore the diversification of the art of Thanjavur painting into a new product line of personal accessory. 2 To collect feedback on the products made. 1.3 SIGNIFICANCE At Poompuhar on Mount Road, at least 200 pieces in every size is available at any given time. Says V. Subbaiyan, Manager, “our showroom sources it directly from traditional artist-families involved in the art from Thanjavur we now see brighter days when Tanjore art is a part of everyone's drawing room." Making new Products with Thanjavur paintings would give a new direction to the art. Creating a new unique product can open another source of income. This would also allow the younger generation to attract to the craft. Also, more intricate designed products like jewelry can be sold to a larger audience, which is not possible with large Thanjavur wall hangings. 3 CHAPTER 2 REVIEW OF LITERATURE “Paintings. Or the collapse of time in images” -Paul Auster 2.1 INTRODUCTION: THANJAVUR – THE ANCIENT TEMPLE TOWN Thanjavur, also called Tanjore in English, is a town in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Scholars believe the name Thanjavur to have been derived from "Tanjan", a legendary asura in Hindu mythology. While the early history of Thanjavur remains unclear, the town first rose to prominence during the reign of the Medieval Cholas when it served as the capital of the Chola Empire. After the fall of the Cholas, the town was ruled by various dynasties like Pandyas, Vijayanagar Empire, Madurai Nayaks, Thanjavur Nayaks, Thanjavur Marathas and the British Empire. It has been a part of independent India since 1947. Thanjavur is one of the major cultural zones and holds an eminent position as a religion place in the southern part of the Indian subcontinent. It particularly has been dominating for centuries a great centre of dance, music, architecture, and arts – sculpture, woodcraft, metal-cast, mural painting, etc. “Most of the Great Living Chola Temples, which are UNESCO World Heritage Monuments, are located in and around Thanjavur. The foremost among these, the Brihadeswara 4 Temple, is located in the center of the town.”7 Though, it was during the last twothree decades that the world bowed to its unique talents and for it brilliant miniature painting. “Thanjavur’s inherent creative genius turned to miniature paintings around the 18th century, when its Maratha rulers brought to it some level of stability and economic prosperity.”7 The town is an important agricultural center located at the heart of the region, known as the "Rice bowl of Tamil Nadu". 2.2 PAINTINGS OF THANJAVUR Tanjore painting, also known as, Thanjavur Oviyam is a major form of classical South Indian painting from the town of Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu, India. The paintings of Thanjavur have travelled a long way, from the fresco paintings of the Chola and Nayaka Dynasty, to the wall hangings of today. Tanjore paintings surface compact are known richness, for their vivid colors, composition and especially the glittering gold foils Plate 1: Mural on the wall of The Big Temple used to give the paintings their rich look. “Tanjore paintings are mainly panel paintings done on solid wood planks, and hence referred to as palagai padam in local parlance.”5 5 2.3 WHO WHERE THE PATRONS OF THANJAVUR PAINTINGS? There are lots of high quality paintings in the Tanjore big temple that explain many things about the kingdom of Raja Raja Chola and also the greatness of the Raja Raja Chola. Some paintings also explain about the Raja Raja Chola's favorite God Shiva. There were also some stories present in the painting present in Tanjore big temple. In the secret passage from Tanjore big temple there were great paintings present that explain about many great things. The most admiring part of the painting in Tanjore big temple is the painting of Raja Raja Chola offering his respect to his Guru. The colors chosen for the painting are great such that the paintings are still good and healthy to see. The temple has Chola frescoes on the walls around the sanctum sanctorum portraying Shiva in action, destroying demonic forts, dancing and sending a white elephant to transport a devotee to heaven. These frescoes were discovered in the 1940s and portray Plate 2: Chola Period – Sixty –three Shaivaite saints, Appar. the mythological episodes of the journey of Saint Sundarar and the Chera King to heaven, the battle scene of Tripurantaka (Lord Siva) with Asuras (demons). The Chola artists have proved their mettle by portraying even the Asura 6 Plate 3: Nayaka - A Popular theme, Ramas’ coronation. women with a sense of beauty. Some of the paintings in the sanctum sanctorum and the walls in the passage had been damaged because of the soot that had deposited on them. Owing to the continuous exposure to smoke and soot from the lamps and burning of camphor in the sanctum sanctorum over a period of centuries certain parts of the Chola paintings on the circumambulatory passage walls had been badly damaged. The Tanjore Nayak kings replaced them with a few paintings of their own, about 400 years ago. The Archaeological Survey of India, for the first time in the world, used its unique de-stucco process to restore 16 Nayak paintings, which were superimposed on 1000-year-old Chola frescoes. These 400-year-old paintings have been mounted on fiber glass boards, displayed at a separate pavilion. 2.4 CHARACTERISTIC OF PAINTINGS OF THANJAVUR The characteristic of Thanjavur Painting defines it. Iconic style: iconology conveys knowledge through images or pictures. Subject matter: The themes are most Plate Plate4:1.AAMaratha Marathaking kingon onhis hisivory ivorythrone thronewith withan an impressive impressivearray arrayofofweapons. weapons. often illustrated from the Ramayana and Bhagavada Purana (both these epics being held in high esteem by the 7 Hindus). The subject matter was mainly Vaishnavite, the members of the royal house who commissioned these paintings being Vaishnavites. Common themes were various depiction of Krishna, Rama’s coronation and variations of Vishnu. To cater to customers demands, Shaivite theme came into existence. Composition: the composition is characterizing static and generally consists of one main Plate, that is, the deity, centrally placed. The deity is usually housed within an enclosure of a palace or a temple pavilion. Even when there is no architectural background, such as, enclosure created by means of curtains or an arch. Thus the composition is such that it restricts movement. Drawing style: the depiction of Plates is Plate 5: 2. Rama's Coronation monumental and robust. The firm clear brush outlines enclosing the forms further heighten its massiveness. The deity is always shown face front, never in profile. All the ten fingers and toes are shown. The garlands are mostly open ended. The chief Plate follows a hierarchy. Color scheme: colors schemes are generally strong. The background may be a deep blue, red or dark green, while the main Plates are in white, green or blue. Red and blue or red and green compositions often dominate the compositions. Colors are rendered flat with minimal shading. 8 Embellishments: the major role is played by the gold which binds and holds the picture together. With time, the usage of gold as decoration in these paintings has increased. No one can find with the entire painting ornamented with gold. The gold work is complimented by stones usually red, green, and white. Cutglass pieces from Jaipur are also used today, though the color remains the same. 2.5 RELIGIOUS ASPECT Having started of the painting for the pooja room, certain norms are followed in the making of Thanjavur painting. While painting, the artists work barefoot. Also, the painting is complete except for the eyes, this ‘opening of the eyes’, that is, the painting of the eye ball is done at an auspicious hour. Initially only male members did these paintings. Females were not allowed to work on it, as during their menstrual cycle they were considered impure and not allowed to enter the pooja room to do any kind of religious work. 2.6 THANJAVUR ON EXOTIC MEDIA Glass Paintings: The idea of glass painting seems to have risen from the local artists attempts to create in expensive paintings for the middle and lower middle for their Pooja rooms. The colors are rich and the style is Plate 6: Glass Painting, Ganesha 9 bold.1 Ivory painting: The technique used is similar to water color. This art requires much more skill since it involves rendering a highly polished surface. This art was mostly prevalent during the British era. Mica Painting: Also, done during the British era. It is less fragile than glass. It has also been found that Thanjavur paintings were done on Playing cards. 10 CHAPTER 3 RESEARCH DESIGN AND METHODOLOGY 3.1 METHODOLOGY The research was exploratory in nature. This involves studying the art of Thanjavur painting of Thanjavur district, in Tamil Naidu and to bring innovation in the products. As the research was exploratory, the exact nature of the findings was not known in advance. This was because there was no previous research with which to predict the direction the research will go in. while this may seem like a challenge, it was believed this will give the advantage of flexibility and freedom for the research. Thus, the first step in the research was to understand the art and technique used in crafting it. The next step was to analyze the different kinds of products made and available. Visiting the artisans workshops, gave an opportunity to observe how they make Thanjavur painting, interacting with and interviewing the artisans, documenting the process involved, examining the designs used, and to examine deeper any issues that are highlighted by the step. Also, to focus on the kinds of motifs used in these paintings. The next step was to decide on a suitable product that could be made, that is, jewelry. Also, it was required to find out a similar traditional craft with products 11 like jewelry. Product innovation was the next step wherein, with the help of the conclusions from the data collected, a brand new product from Thanjavur Paintings is visualized. This stage includes experimentation and creativity. Prototype development was the next stage where the ideas that were visualized before are realized. This stage involves working with different kind of material exploration in terms of Thanjavur art to be done on. This was the most critical stage as the success or failure of the dissertation depends upon it. The final stage was preparation of thesis. Firstly, a draft will be prepared and submitted for review by mentor and conclusions and inferences will be adequately by evidences from data collected and work done. Then the final thesis was submitted to bring the research into an end. 3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN Library ROL Secondary Research Traditional technique used Internet Modern technique used Interaction with the artisans Exploratory Research Market and Contemporization Primary Research Interaction with 2 Jewelry Designers Contemporary Jewelry inspired – traditional craft Study on Contemporized traditional jewelry Brain Storming Product Diversificatio n Mood Board Sketch and Material Board Chart 1: Research Design Initial Exploration 12 Final Design 3.3 SAMPLING Sampling was done by the case study method. Case study is a research strategy, an empirical inquiry that investigates a phenomenon within its real-life context. Case study I: Interaction with Traditional Thanjavur Artists, namely, Mr. R Jayanthan and Mr. Pradeep Rajendran. Case study II: Interaction with Modern Thanjavur Artists, namely, Mr. Vineet Mittal and Mrs. Sheena Kishorpuria. Case study III: Interaction with Jewelry Designers, namely, Ms. Neel Shah and Mr. Jimit Shah. Case Study Case Study I II Case Study III • Interactio n with Traditional Thanjavur artist • Interactio n with Modern Thanjavur artist • Interacti on with Jewelry Designer Chart 2: Case study 13 3.4 SECONDARY RESEARCH Secondary research is being done through study of literature relate to the research. It is done to gain the understanding of Thanjavur paintings from its origin. Secondary research also emphasizes on different exotic media used in making Thanjavur painting. The secondary research has been done through the following: 3.4.1 STUDY OF BOOKS AND eBOOKS Many books were read to get the thorough knowledge about the research topic. Books on Thanjavur paintings gave a holistic insight on the same. Book have been referred by visiting various libraries, namely, Prince of Wales Library, Asiatic Library, Nift Resource Center(Mumbai), National Library(Kolkata), Saraswati Mahal Library (Thanjavur). 3.4.2 ARTICLES PUBLISHED IN NEWSPAPER AND MAGAZINE National newspapers have been browsed to get to know the current scenario of painting in India. Some of the newspapers who have published articles related to Thanjavur paintings are: The Hindu, The New India Express. 3.4.3 INFORMATION AVAILABLE ONLINE Most of the secondary data collected are through internet. Websites dealing with information on Thanjavur painting have been visited. Blogs and Social Media Websites have been searched upon to gather information. 14 3.5 PRIMARY RESEARCH The primary research is qualitative in nature. It has been done to find the actual state of Thanjavur Painting along with the process of making it. And an extensive study on motives has been carried on so as to understand the kinds of motifs that are prevalent which would further help in the development of new products. Through the primary research an effort has been taken to understand the process, products made, and market of the art. 3.5.1 OBSERVATION Observation was one of the most effective tools for conducting primary research. Observation has been done while interacting with various artists, and jewelers. 3.5.2 CASE STUDY Case study of Various Traditional and contemporary thanjavur artists has been studied to critically compare the same. Also, case study of various Jewelry Designers was taken in to consideration in order to proceed with the diversification of product. 15 CHAPTER 4 ANALYSIS The data collected through primary research and secondary research is being analyzed for design suggestion. Following are the analysis of data collection. 4.1 ANALYSIS OF SECONDARY RESEARCH Secondary Research was mainly conducted on the basis of the data collected to various libraries and to have an understanding of thanjavur. Also, emphasized on different exotic media used in making Thanjavur painting. A visit was made into the showroom of Poompuhar, which is The Tamilnadu Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd. It is explained that Thanjavur paintings are amongst the best selling products in their shop and the art market as a whole, due to its craftsmen ship that is put into making it. During the course of interview, Mr. Chakravarthy explained the importance of Thanjavur painting to the livelihoods of thousands of craftsmen and traders, and emphasized that protecting and developing this art has been taken up by the Archaeological Survey of India and many NGOs. 4.1.1 PROCESS - TOOLS AND RAW MATERIALS USED Palagai: Traditionally, wood of the jack fruit tree is used as it does not invite termites nor it rots easily. 16 Cotton fabric: Kezhungu passai (Indigenous gum): Gum from a root used for sticking cloth to the wooden base. Chukangu powder: A root ground to powder: Used with fevicol as to coat the fabric. Calcium carbonate stone: The stone is ground and sieved to fineness and used with chalk powder and gum from the karuvela maram/babul tree for coating on cloth. Polishing stone and Emery sheet: For smoothening the coated board in preparation for tracing the image. Red stone: It is used in the past instead of sunnambu kallu for embossing work. It was mixed with chalk powder and gum. Red stone is believed to be longer lasting than sunnambu kallu. Chalk powder: Used in the coating of cloth. Tracing sheet with a template for the painting. Kari (Charcoal dust): Used to create impression of tracing on board. Kundan stones/Glass: The cut glass, set in lac on a stick is then shaped by rubbing on a stone till it has soft curves. The glass is then placed on a silver plate with color smeared on it. On heating the silver plate, the color sticks to the glass. This colored glass has better luster as compared to the kundan used today. Mirror is used for decorating borders. Gold leaf: A thin film of flattened gold. Made by artisans in the past by beating a 17 gold bit by placing it on a animal skin. In the 1930s and 40s it was imported from China. Fake gold leaf is available. Cloth: for pressing emboss work. Squirrel tail hair brush: it is made by the artisan according to required thickness. Mooligai colors: These colors are available at country medicine stores in the form of tablets or powders. These colors are grinded/churned and mixed with gum and water. The preparation of colors takes about two to four days and has a limited shelf life. Painting with natural colors creates a subdued tonal effect as compared to the stark effect of poster colors. Other materials used are: Teak wood for frame and glass placed over painting 4.1.2 PROCESS - TECHNIQUE OF MAKING THE PAINTING Fixing of cloth: A wooden board of required size is procured. A cardboard is placed on the board. Cotton fabric is stretched and stuck/pasted on the board using kezhangu passai (an indigenous gum). Once the fabric has adhered/attached well to the board, the process of coating the cloth begins. Coating maavu the cloth (paste) of board: A chukangu powder and fevicol is prepared. Three coats of this paste are Plate7:3.Initial InitialSketch sketchmade madeon onplywood plywood. Plate 18 applied on the cloth board over a span of ten days including drying time in between coats. This coated area is then rubbed with a smoothening stone and emery sheet to obtain a surface with mild sheen and good texture. Coating of the cloth Plate 8: 4. The The Drawing drawing area Plate area is is first first coated coated with single single layer layer of of chalk chalk powder powder and and with Fevicol mixture, mixture, in in orderr order to fevicol toraise raiseititfrom from the base base surface. surface. the board helps prevent the painting from damage caused by moisture and heat. Tracing the image: The painter has templates of religious themes to be used in the paintings. The template is in the form of a tracing sheet with pinpricks on the outlines. This tracing sheet is placed on top of the cloth board and dusted with kari (charcoal dust). The outline is further clearly marked using mai (soot) from a vellakennai lamp using an anil vaal. Emboss and colored stonework: A paste made of chalk powder, sunnambu kallu and karuvela maram gondhu is used to create the relief work. Using a brush, the first layer of the paste is applied to create a raised effect for the designated areas of the work. Once this layer is dry, finer details are painted on using the same paste to create raised patterning. At this stage, the colored glass or kundan stones 19 Plate 9: Finely embossed patterns with gold leaf and enhanced by Kundan along with mirror in the border are the main charm of the Thanjavur painting are embedded. They are stuck with Fevicol or chukangu paste. Once dried, the embossed areas are covered with gold leaf. Gold leaf work: Thin gold foil is placed on an embossed area and measured for size. The foil is then cut to shape. Karuvela maram gondhu is applied on the back and pasted on the embossed area. The leaf is smoothened over the area using a piece of cloth. Using the pointed back of a paintbrush, the foil is pressed down to reveal the embossed details. In this manner, all the embossed areas are covered with gold leaf. In summer, the gold leaf takes about three hours to dry on the board. The edges of the shapes are trimmed for excess gold. Painting: Depending on the grade of the painting, poster color or poster color + mooligai color or mooligai color is used. Colors are painted and allowed to dry in several coats. Skin tones are applied in stroke gradations to create softness. A fine outlining is done for features. The gold leaf, in some paintings is detailed with black soot or permanent marker for clearer contrasts. Framing: The painting, once complete is placed inside a teakwood frame with clear glass on top. The local aasari makes the frame according to the dimensions of the painting and sends it to the painter. 20 4.1.3 MOTIF STUDY A motif is an element of a pattern, image or part of one, or theme. A motif may be repeated in a design or composition, often many times, or may just occur once in a work. A motif may be an element in the iconography of a particular subject or type of subject that is seen in other works. The motifs observed in Thanjavur paintings are much inclined toward elements related to Hindu mythology. In terms of motifs, Deities like Krishna, Vithoba, Shiv, Parvati, Lakshmi, Ganesha, Saraswati, Dhanwantari, Andal and Vishnu are captured. Themes such as Coronation of Rama, Panchmukhi Ganapati, Aleyeli Krishna, RadhaKrishna, Vithoba Krishna, Rukhamini Krishna, Yashoda Krishna, King Sarafoji with courtiers, King Parthasarthi with consorts, Gaja Lakshmi, Shiv Parvati Wedding, Navanita Priya are depicted. Also, when observed closely one would find mythical creatures like Yali on most of the Thanjavur pieces. Yali, also known as Vyala or Sarabham or Vidala in Sanskrit, is a mythical Plate 10: Yali, a mythical creature creature seen in many Hindu temples, often sculpted onto the pillars. It is called as Leogryph in English. Yali is a motif in Indian art and it has Plate 11: Another variation o Yali been widely used in south Indian sculpture. Descriptions of and references to Yali’s are very old, but they became prominent in south Indian sculpture in the 21 16th century. Yali’s are believed to be more powerful than the lion/Tiger or the elephant. In its iconography and image the Yali has a catlike graceful body, but the head of a lion with tusks of an elephant and tail of a serpent. Images or icons have been found on the entrance walls of the temples, and the graceful mythical lion is believed to protect and guard the temples and ways leading to the temple. Similar, to Yali, another mythical creature that is seen in these paintings are Makara is a sea-creature in Hindu mythology. It is generally depicted as half errestrial animal (in the frontal part in animal forms of elephant or crocodile or stag, or deer) and in hind part as aquatic animal, in the tail part, as a fish tail or also as seal. Sometimes, even a peacock tail is depicted. Plate 13: Yashoda Wih Baby Krishna Plate 12: Ganesha 22 When observed closely minute motifs such as different varieties of garlands/flowers, mutuks, Garments, Ornaments, Chakra, Shankha, Pooja Items Corners of the painting, Thorne Legs, Attendants, consorts arch, Hasthamudra, Angel, Animals like parrots, elephants are also found. Plate 14: Parrot Plate 20: Chakra Plate 18: Elephant Plate 19: Corner of the painting Plate 17: Shankha Plate 15: Garlands/ Flowers Plate 16: Mukut 23 4.2 ANALYSIS OF PRIMARY RESEARCH Contacts were received of artists to aid with the research and to better understand both the processes, and the people, behind Thanjavur painting. Also, contacts where made with different Jewelry Designers, in order to gain insight on different kinds of jewelry. Following are the main objective of primary research: To understand the current scenario of Thanjavur painting as well as to study the traditional and modern technique used in developing the painting. Also, the study would define the kind of Jewelry available in the market. It would help in understand a similar art Jeweler in terms of products in seen today in the market. The main technique applied was observation throughout the research. 4.2.1 CASE STUDY AND OBSERVATION 4.2.1.1 Case study I Interaction with Traditional Thanjavur Artists, namely, Mr. R Jayanthan and Mr. Pradeep Rajendran; the art of traditional thanjavur art was documented. Both the artisans are post graduates. They have been practicing this art for more that 15 yrs, which has been passed down to them from their fore-fathers. The artisans are expert in thanjavur paintings. For them the meaning of contemporization is to make Ravi Verma Paintings into Tanjore paintings. Since they are high qualified, both make full use of today’s technology, by showing their work on computers. Also, they know that usage of internet is highly beneficial and it helps them to surf new design online. At times, they make their own designs in Photoshop. 24 They also, prefer making new designs in thanjavur as it is more beneficiary that the traditional once. They are sold more when compared. Since they are skilled they know about their copy rights. With the development of technology, it has become easy for them to interact with the customers and market them self’s. 4.2.1.2 Case study II Interaction with Modern Thanjavur Artists, namely, Mr. Vineet Mittal and Mrs. Sheena Kishorpuria; the art of contemporary thanjavur art was documented. Both the artisans are educated personals. This art has not been passed down to them from their fore-fathers. The artisans are expert in thanjavur paintings and have been practicing it for years now. In terms of contemporization, they are making family portraits, and abstract Thanjavur painting. They make these paintings only on order basis. These thanjavur paintings are more often customized in nature. 4.2.1.3 Case study III Interaction with Jewelry Designers, namely, Ms. Neel Shah and Mr. Jimit Shah; this interacting was done after the first exploration of the diversified products. Also, the process of making jewelry was understood in order to come up with fine range of thanjavur jewelry. 25 4.2.2 PRODUCT ANALYSIS Vaishnavite themes in Thanjavur paintings developed during the Nayak period. The most popular themes include: Plate 22: Ramas Pattabishegam Plate 21: Gaja Lakshmi Vennai Thali Krishnan (Krishna with a pot of butter) Ramar Pattabishegam (The crowning of King Rama) Saraswati and Gaja Lakshmi (Lakshmi flanked by elephants) Royal portraits were also painted. The puranic themes are the most sought after. Chandramukeshwar, Shiva-Parvati and Bhooma Devi and the 108 Bharatanattiyam poses of Shiva are few of the puranic style still prevalent today. These paintings have been visualized after a rigorous study of narratives in the Puranas. Today, artists undertake family portrait orders and the occasional recreation of a famous Ravi Varma painting in Thanjavur oviyam style. Apart from paintings the artisans also make idols of god and goddesses. Artists today have also started taking inspiration from the work of a Tamil painter namely, 26 Veera Santhanam and have converted them into Thanjavur style painting. Apart from these, in present times, a lot of artists are making Thanjavur paintings of other deities instead of taking deities from the Hindu mythology. Also, products like 3D Thanjavur Painting which has extra relief work, Family or individual portraits, abstract Thanjavur Paintings, Thanjavur Painting Mirror, Thanjavur Gold foil work on a Wooden elephant sculpture, and Trays, are also being done in the name of contemporization. Plate 27: Mother Mary in Thanjavur Plate 25: Portrait Style Plate 24: 3D Thanjavur Lakshmi Plate 29: Thanjavur Mirror Plate 28: Thanjavur Pooja Tray Plate 23: Thanjavur Style Elephant Sculpture Plate 26: Abstract Durga 27 4.2.3 MARKET RESEARCH ON JEWELLERY The study mainly helped in exploring the kind of jewelry available in the market today. Contemporary Jewelry inspired by traditional Indian concepts was look seen. Jewelry by Apla fits perfectly in this category. Plate 30: Shiv Shakti Collection Plate 31: Monastri Collection Plate 34: Shiv Shakti Collection Plate 33: Akshay Trithya Collection 28 Plate 32: Akshay Trithya Collection 4.2.3.1 Study of contemporary jewelry inspired by traditional art A similar contemporary Jewelry inspired by traditional Indian art was taken and explored, that is, Jewelry made out of Miniature Painting. Initially miniature painting was studied in order to gain insight about the same. Also the study helped in understanding how different kinds of products made out of miniature painting are prevalent in the market today. For some time now, a variety of contemporized version of miniature jewelry has been seen in the market; this can be said for a fact that the market is flooded with pendants and earrings inspired by miniature jewelry. Plate 36: Ganesh Miniature Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST Plate 35: RadhaKrishna Miniature Set, CSK, Kolkata Plate 37: Radha Krishna Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST Plate 38: Ganesh Miniature Set, Beads, CST 29 Different jewelry brand like Kramasa, RuHH today are coming up with their own version of miniature painting jewelry giving the painting a whole unique touch to it. Also, to make their product unique and different they are exploring this style of miniature painting on other materials like wood, marble, paper, terracotta, etc. Also, when said that these brands are making contemporized jewelry inspired by miniature painting, they take element from the painting or a part of a scene and as depicted in the pictures below. Plate 41: Miniature on wood by Kramasa Plate 39: Miniature on wood by Kramasa Plate 40: Miniature on Marble by Kramasa Plate 43: Miniature on paper by Ruhh Plate 42: Lost wax Jewelry by Ruhh Plate 44: Terracotta Jewelry by Ruhh 30 4.2.3.2 World view on jewelry This study was done in order to gain insight on similar kinds of jewelry created around the world in the current season. The catalogs from International India Jewelry week were reviewed to understand the fashion in jewelry. Also, trends depicting websites like style sight and WGSN were studied for the same. The Cameo Earrings add an heirloom-inspired touch of refined elegance to any ensemble. Carved from a range of materials including Plexiglas, Lucite and glass, the earrings are offered in classic or updated drop styles. Elaborate details such as Swarovski crystals, ivory pearls and splashes of color add glitz to the overall vintage look and allow retailers to hit a variety of price points. Cameos return as a new must-have item. Either classic or novelty motifs / Classic portrait brooch with beaded frame / Oval pendant earrings with biblical Garden of Eden Plate 45: Street fashion, Street shot, New York 2011, Stylesight theme / Vintage look earrings surrounded by gemstones / Gothic motifs reflect a modern update in mismatched motifs. Cameos are the 21st Century’s Romance jewelry inspiration. Inspired by the dramatic effect of the A/W 13/14 macro trend, cameos are an important motif for women's jewelry and influence men's design too. Symbolisms seemingly are religious, protective and good luck symbols are motifs that have gotten emphasis. Crucifixes, hamsas, evil eyes and religious charms / Pendants and charms, rings, and earrings / from oversized statement pieces to 31 simple designs / Crucifixes have been paired with punk elements for mixed motif messages. Plate 46: Carved Figures inspiration, Stylesight Trend board, 2012 Kaleidoscopic glamour is the bright and optimistic jewelry spring/summer 2013 direction in lined for with nostalgia, nodding to a golden age of jet-set socialites. The next generation of Plate 47: Indian color inspired earrings, Dior designers and muses are asserting their own interpretation of era defining glamour For spring/summer 2013, the fine jewelry look is confident, energized and above all optimistic Although styling is inspirational, there is a languid elegance to the look, enabling an easy blend of high jewelry and costume pieces Vibrant gems are given centre stage and juxtaposed with 32 gold’s in complementary colors Attention to detail is exemplified by a harmonious use of gem setting, exquisite colors, and updated metal manipulation. Costume jewelry once again takes center stage with a renewal of large-scale and outlandish clip-on earrings - Raid vintage jewelry boxes to create accumulated styles - Pearls, gems, cameos and gold develop an extravagant look. Pure gold has a rich yellow tone. Trends show that gold would be on the top list in the next two seasons. The bright yellow color emphasizes gem stones / Cuffs and collars have an ancient look / Far Eastern influences /Paired with coral. It was observed that lariat necklaces and multiple-string neckpieces are also in fashion. 33 CHAPTER 5 DESIGN PROCESS AND EXPERIMENTATION 5.1 BRAIN STORMING Chart 3: Brain Storming At the initial stage brainstorming was done to get a clear picture so as to what kinds of personalized product would be appropriate. Through this mind-map it was easy to understand the process to be followed in order to achieve the desired product. 34 5.2 MOOD BOARD This Mood boards is create so as to enable the direction of style pursued. It is a visual representation to inform the overall feel of the designs to be achieved. In short, this mood board would be a used as a channel in the creation of design concepts. Plate 48: Thanjavur Collection: mood Board 35 5.3 SKETCH AND MATERIAL BOARD The following are the initial sketches of the desired products. Plate 52: Sketch board 1 Initial sketches Plate 51: Sketch board 2 Initial sketches Plate 49: Sketch board 3 Initial sketches Plate 50: Sketch board 4 Initial sketches 36 Thanjavur explorations were done on various materials like glass wood, mother of pearl, semi precious stones, etc. These explorations were done to see how Thanjavur style would look on each of the above mentioned material and which one would be the most appropriate to make products. Also, these explorations would suggest whether the technique used is fit for other materials or not, its aesthetic appeal, etc. The following are a few images on which thanjavur painting was explored on. Plate 53: Initial stage of explorations of different materials (look without the gold foil) Plate 55: Exploration on Wood Plate 56: Exploration on mother of pearl 37 Plate 54: Exploration on Different color and textures of glasses (with gold foil work and brass wire work) Plate 57: Exploration on SemiPrecious Stone (Agate) 5.4 Initial Exploration Almost all the initial design explorations were done on wood. The wooden Pieces were cut according to the desired shape and then the process of Thanjavur Painting was applied, formulating in beautiful neck pieces. Plate 58: Initial Explorations: Shankha Plate 59: Initial Explorations: Krishna 38 Plate 61: Initial Explorations: Durga Plate 60: Initial Explorations: Yali 39 5.5 FINAL DESIGNS The designs have been divided into certain categories, namely, 1. Traditional 2: Glass 3. Semi- Precious 4. Mother of Pearl 5. Wood 5.5.1 Category I Category: Traditional Jewelry inspired by traditional Thanjavur painting; an attempt to keep the look and feel of the jewelry more inclined towards Thanjavur painting. Plate 63: Close up view of Traditional Neckpiece Plate 62: Model wearing the traditional neck piece 40 5.5.2 Category II Category: Glass Jewelry Plate 64: Model wearing the Yali on glass neck piece Plate 65: Close up view of Yali on glass 5.5.3 Category III Category: Semi-Precious Jewelry Plate 67: Model wearing the Blue Chelsea neck piece Plate 66: Close up view of the Blue Chelsea neck piece 41 Plate 68: Model wearing the Yali on Turquoise neck piece Plate 69: Close up view of Yali on Turquoise neck piece Plate 71: Close up view of the Orange Carnillion Earring Plate 70: Model wearing the Orange Carnillion Earring 42 5.5.4 Category IV Category: Mother of Pearl Jewelry Plate 72: Close up view of Mother of Pearl Tanjore Earring Plate 73: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl Earring Plate 74: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl Plate 75: Close up view of the Mother of Pearl Peacock feather neck piece Peacock feather neck piece 43 Plate 76: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl neckpiece (abstract) Plate 77: Close up view of the Mother of Pearl neckpiece (abstract) 5.5.5 Category V Category: Wood Jewelry Plate 78: Close up view of the Tanjore on wood neckpiece Plate 79: Model wearing the Tanjore on wood neckpiece 44 5.6 FEEDBACK The feedback was taken over a social media website to gauge the response and reaction towards the products created as a result of the research. The exhibit included information regarding the products. The following is the link to the page to the social media website where the products where put up: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151407423087499.1073741827.6 64257498&type=1 The respondents belonged from all walks of life, from entrepreneurs, engineers, professors to home makers. These respondents are perspective customers. Students were also a part of the respondents and gave feedback on aesthetics and design innovation. These students will form a major part of the future clientele. The respondents liked the designs made on the semi precious products especially on turquoise. They appreciated the fact that the intricate gold foil work was done on such small jewelry pieces and yet increase the aesthetic appeal of the product. They also liked the addition of abstract art in the same style which made them unique, rather the products with abstract art were most appreciated. Combination of colors was also appreciated for some of the products. Some feedback also included constructive criticism which will be useful while making products in the future. Some design suggestions were that more products should have been made in Category I, that is, with Traditional look and feel. Also, 45 they suggested that more products in terms of usability like mang-tikka could have been made. The following are the rating each product got in the feedback. Sample size – 30 Category I – Neckpiece with Traditional Thanjavur motif Neckpiece with Traditional Thanjavur motif Excellent Good Fair 0% 0% 23% Average poor 44% 33% Category II - Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Blue Chelsea) Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Blue Chelsea) Excellent Good 13% 17% Fair 0% 27% 43% 46 Average poor Category II - Earring with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Orange Carnillion) Earring with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Orange Carnillion) Excellent Good Fair 0%0% 19% Average poor 45% 36% Category II - Neck Choker with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Turquoise) Neck Choker with Thanjavur on Semi- precious Stones (Turquoise) Excellent Good 0% Fair 0% 23% 27% 50% 47 Average poor Category III - Neckpiece with Thanjavur on glass Neckpiece with Thanjavur on glass Excellent Good Fair 0% 0% 33% Average poor 40% 27% Category IV - Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Peacock) Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Peacock) Excellent Good 13% Fair 0% 20% 47% 20% 48 Average poor Category IV - Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Abstract) Neckpiece with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Abstract) Excellent Good Fair 0% 0% 13% 23% Average poor 64% Category IV - Earring with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Parrot) Earring with Thanjavur on Mother of pearl (Parrot) Excellent Good Fair 0% 0% 23% 44% 33% 49 Average poor Category V - Neckpiece with Thanjavur on wood Neckpiece with Thanjavur on wood Excellent Good Fair 0% Average poor 17% 13% 30% 40% The reaction from the respondents was highly overwhelming and encouraging. A few of them expressed their inclination to give orders for personalized products for themselves. They were also curious to know how the products were made. They also appreciated the intricate Thanjavur work on various materials. 50 CHAPTER 6 CONCLUSION The dissertation began with a simple idea- to bring innovation into Thanjavur painting. While researching it, in almost every step of the way, many interesting issues and ideas were revealed. The major points are highlighted below: Thanjavur Painting is Tamil Naidu is a scattered sector. It would be incorrect to say that its prevalent only in Tamil Naidu, rather one can find artists all over India. Most of the young artists today are educationally highly qualified, like M.A., M.B.A., yet they have immense interest towards the craft. The artisans also take full advantage of the internet, they search the desired design through the internet and later edit them in Photoshop; also these artisans show their design to their customers on their computers. Most of the artists are taking inspiration from other Tamil painters and converting their paintings into Thanjavur style. Also, these artist are open to take customized orders; they do a lot of family portraits in Thanjavur style. This dissertation is an academic document. Through which, this art form has got a new look. Another hemisphere is now opened. It records how the process of innovations occurs, how design intervention is brought upon. It is a resource; for any prospective individual interested in this art. 51 BIBLIOGRAPHY 1. Appasamy, Jaya. Indian Paintings on Glass. New Delhi: Indian Council for Cultural Relations, 1980. 2. Appasamy, Jaya. Thanjavur Paintings of the Maratha Period. New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1980. 3. Appasamy, Jaya. Thanjavur Paintings of the Maratha Period. New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1983. 4. A quarterly newsletter from national folklore support centre, NFSC Public Programme: Special Report, Volume 1, Issue 2, July 2000. 5. Bhatia, Usha. Treasures of Tanjore Paintings. Harmony Art, 2007. 6. Chakravarthy, Pradeep. Thanjavur A Cultural History. New Delhi: Niyogi Books, 2010. 7. Dr. Daljeet, and Vyas, Chintamani. Paintings of Tanjore and Mysore. Jhansi: Geeta Publishers, 1972. 8. Dr. Daljeet. Tanjore – A PORTFOLIO OF PAINTINGS. New Delhi: Prakash Books India Pvt. Ltd., 2010. (1) 9. Hickey, William. The Tanjore Maratha Principality in Southern India – The Land of Chola. New Delhi: Asian Educational Services, 1988. 10. Nagaswamy, R. The art of Tamil Naidu. Tamil Naidu: The State Department of Archaeology – Govt. of Tamil Naidu. 11. Pichard, Pierre. Tanjavur Brhadisvara an Architectural Study. New Delhi: Indira Gandhi Centre for the arts, 1995. 52 12. Rajan, KV Soundara. Art of South India – Tamil Naidu and Kerala. New Delhi: Jagowal Printing Press, August 1978. 13. Shulman, David Dean. Tamil Temple Myths. Princeton University Press, 1980. 14. Somasundaram, J. The Great Temple at Tanjore. South East Madras: Solden and Company, 1935. 15. Srinivasan, Shakuntala. Tanjore Painting: Revieving An Art of Divine Images Paintings. Chicago South Asia Newsletter, pg 2, Volume 17, Spring, 1993. 16. Subramaniam, K.R. The Maratha Rajas of Tanjore. New Delhi: Madras: Asian Educational Services, 1988. 17. Tanjore Painting: Revieving An Art of Divine Images Paintings by Shakuntala Srinivasan, Chicago South Asia Newsletter, pg 2, Volume 17, Spring, 1993. 18. The Tanjore Art Gallery. Tanjore Gallery Administration Committee, 1958. 19. Yadav, Smita and Raghavan. The Royal Art of Tanjore Paintings. Mumbai: English Edition, 2010. 53 GLOSSARY Anil vaal: squirrel tail hair brush Aleyeli: Dancing Asura: In Hinduism, the Asuras are non-suras, a different group of powerseeking deities besides the suras, sometimes considered naturalists, or nature-beings. They are the forces of chaos that are in constant battle with the Devas. Aasari: local wood craftsman Deva: Deva is the Sanskrit word for deity, its related feminine term is devi. Dhanwantari: The god of medicine Karuvela maram: Babul tree Karuvela maram gondhu: Gum from the babul tree Kundan: Kundan keshri is a traditional form of Indian gemstone jewellery involving a gem set with gold foil between the stones and its mount, usually for elaborate necklaces. It is the oldest form of jewellery made and worn in India. Mooligai colors: pigments extracted from natural sources like leaves, root and bark Navanita: The Butter thief Oviyam: Painting Palagai: wooden plank Padam: picture Puranic: traditional 54 Sunnambu kallu: Calcium carbonate stone Thanjavur: Thanjavur, formerly Tanjore, is the headquarters of the Thanjavur District in the south Indian state of Tamil Nadu. Vellakennai: Oil used during old periods only for lighting village lamps in house and temple 55 ANNEXURE (Questionnaire) GENERAL INFORMATION 1. Artisan’s Name- 2. Artisan’s Address- 3. Artisan’s Sex 4. Education level of artisan 1)Male 2) Female 1) Illiterate ( ) 2) Primary( ) 3) Secondary ( ) 4) College ( ) 5. What craft are you associated with? 6. Are you engaged in any other activity apart from the handicrafts? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) If yes, specify the occupation _________ 7. No. of months for which artisan is involved in craft related activity: 1) 3 – 6 months ( ) 8. 9. 2) 6 – 9 months ( ) 3) Throughout the year( ) Are you a member of any of the following organizations? 1) SHGs ( ) 2) Cooperative ( ) 3) Society ( ) 4) any other ( ) 5) None ( ) No. of family members dependent on the Artisan (specifically not doing any other work and has no income source) 10. Are you planning to train your children in your traditional craft practices? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) Give reasons for your choice _______________________________ 56 INCOME RELATED QUESTIONS 11. Current monthly income of the artisan: 1) Rs. 2500 – 5000 ( ) 2) Rs. 5000 – 7500 3) Rs. 7500 – 10,000 ( ) 4) More than Rs. 7500 ( ( ) ) DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY 12. Are you working on1) Traditional Design ( ( 13. ) 3) Market Demand Design ) Who gives the design? 1) Own ( 14. ) 2) Latest Design ( ) 2). Trader/Agent ( ) 3) Old Patterns ( ) 4) Designers Have you developed any new products in last two years? a. _______________________ b. _______________________ c. _______________________ 15. If yes, are the new products more profitable than the old products (paintings)? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) 16. Identify the skill level of the artisans (as per the artisan’s perception), with respect to the handicraft only: 1) Unskilled ( ) 2) Semi-skilled ( ) 3) Skilled ( ) 4) Expert ( 17. Which are would you like to strengthen for your growth 1) Production ( 4) Marketing ( ) 2) Design ( ) 3) Packaging ( ) ) 5) Any other __________________________ Have you worked with any designer? (Designers name) 57 ) If yes then what kind of work have you done with them? TRAINING 18. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skills? 1) Yes ( ) 19. If 2) No ( ) yes, what is it? (pl. specify) _________________________________________ 20. Are these kind of training good for your work opportunities? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) 21. Do you need further training? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) 22. In which of the following areas would you want to be trained? 1) Skill Development 2) Capacity Building 3) Design Innovation 4) Better Quality 5) Marketing 23. 6) Any other _______________ Do you know how to use Computer? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) 24. Do you use Internet: 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) If yes, what do you use it for? 1) Personal ( ) 2) Business Purpose ( ) 3) Both ( ) 25. Have you benefited in any way by the use of Internet? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) PRICING 26. Who or what decides the pricing of your products? 1) Self ( ) 2) Trader/Agent ( ) 3) Raw Materials ( ) 4) Local Market Demand ( ) 5) Labour Cost ( ) 6) Any other _____________ 58 27. Are you satisfied with the present system of pricing? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) If no, then give suggestions ___________________________________________ 28. Where do you procure raw material from? 1) Local Market ( ) 2) Agents ( ) 3) Nearby Markets ( ) 4) Far away markets ( ) 29. How can this problem be eliminated? (Give suggestions). ________________________________________________________ 30. Do you get any subsidy from the Govt. while procuring raw materials? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) MARKETING 31. How do you sell your products? 1) Directly to customers ( ) 2) melas & Festivals ( ) 3) Dealers/Agent Network ( ) 4) Exports ( ) 5) Local Markets ( ) 6) Trade fairs ( ) 32. 7) Any other __________ Are you facing any difficulty in marketing your products? 1) Yes ( ) 2) No ( ) 33. If yes, what are the main reasons? 1) Distance from your unit to market ( ) 2) Transportation ( ) 3) Middlemen/Agent ( ) 4) Lack of domestic/local market ( ) Any other ( ) ___________ 59 LIST OF CHARTS Chart 1: Research Design ............................................................................................................... 12 Chart 2: Case study ........................................................................................................................ 13 Chart 3: Brain Storming.................................................................................................................. 34 60 LIST OF PLATES Plate 1: Mural on the wall of The Big Temple ................................................................................. 5 Plate 2: Chola Period – Sixty –three Shaivaite saints, Appar. .......................................................... 6 Plate 3: Nayaka - A Popular theme, Ramas’ coronation. ................................................................. 6 Plate 4: A Maratha king on his ivory throne with an impressive array of weapons. ....................... 7 Plate 5: Rama's Coronation.............................................................................................................. 8 Plate 6: Glass Painting, Ganesha ...................................................................................................... 9 Plate 7: Initial Sketch made on plywood........................................................................................ 18 Plate 8: The Drawing area is first coated with single layer of chalk powder and fevicol mixture, in orderr to raise it from the base surface......................................................................................... 19 Plate 9: Finely embossed patterns with gold leaf and enhanced by Kundan along with mirror in the border are the main charm of the Thanjavur painting............................................................ 19 Plate 10: Yali, a mythical creature ................................................................................................. 21 Plate 11: Another variation o Yali .................................................................................................. 21 Plate 12: Ganesha .......................................................................................................................... 22 Plate 13: Yashoda Wih Baby Krishna ............................................................................................. 22 Plate 14: Parrot .............................................................................................................................. 23 Plate 15: Garlands/ Flowers ........................................................................................................... 23 Plate 16: Mukut.............................................................................................................................. 23 Plate 17: Shankha........................................................................................................................... 23 Plate 18: Elephant .......................................................................................................................... 23 Plate 19: Corner of the painting..................................................................................................... 23 Plate 20: Chakra ............................................................................................................................. 23 Plate 21: Gaja Lakshmi ................................................................................................................... 26 Plate 22: Ramas Pattabishegam..................................................................................................... 26 Plate 23: Thanjavur Style Elephant Sculpture ................................................................................ 27 Plate 24: 3D Thanjavur Lakshmi ..................................................................................................... 27 Plate 25: Portrait ............................................................................................................................ 27 Plate 26: Abstract Durga ................................................................................................................ 27 Plate 27: Mother Mary in Thanjavur Style ..................................................................................... 27 Plate 28: Thanjavur Pooja Tray ...................................................................................................... 27 Plate 29: Thanjavur Mirror............................................................................................................. 27 Plate 30: Shiv Shakti Collection ...................................................................................................... 28 Plate 31: Monastri Collection ........................................................................................................ 28 Plate 32: Akshay Trithya Collection ............................................................................................... 28 Plate 33: Akshay Trithya Collection ............................................................................................... 28 Plate 34: Shiv Shakti Collection ...................................................................................................... 28 Plate 35: RadhaKrishna Miniature Set, CSK, Kolkata ..................................................................... 29 Plate 36: Ganesh Miniature Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST .............................................................. 29 Plate 37: Radha Krishna Set, Shrimgar Jewelers, CST .................................................................... 29 Plate 38: Ganesh Miniature Set, Beads, CST .................................................................................. 29 Plate 39: Miniature on wood by Kramasa ..................................................................................... 30 61 Plate 40: Miniature on Marble by Kramasa ................................................................................... 30 Plate 41: Miniature on wood by Kramasa ..................................................................................... 30 Plate 42: Lost wax Jewelry by Ruhh ............................................................................................... 30 Plate 43: Miniature on paper by Ruhh........................................................................................... 30 Plate 44: Terracotta Jewelry by Ruhh ............................................................................................ 30 Plate 45: Street fashion, Street shot, New York 2011, Stylesight .................................................. 31 Plate 46: Carved Figures inspiration, Stylesight Trend board, 2012 ............................................. 32 Plate 47: Indian color inspired earrings, Dior ................................................................................ 32 Plate 48: Thanjavur Collection: mood Board ................................................................................. 35 Plate 49: Sketch board 3 Initial sketches ....................................................................................... 36 Plate 50: Sketch board 4 Initial sketches ....................................................................................... 36 Plate 51: Sketch board 2 Initial sketches ....................................................................................... 36 Plate 52: Sketch board 1 Initial sketches ....................................................................................... 36 Plate 53: Exploration on Semi-Precious Stone (Agate) .................................................................. 37 Plate 54: Exploration on Wood ...................................................................................................... 37 Plate 55: Exploration on mother of pearl ...................................................................................... 37 Plate 56: Initial stage of explorations of different materials (look without the gold foil) ............. 37 Plate 57: Exploration on Different color and textures of glasses (with gold foil work and brass wire work) ...................................................................................................................................... 37 Plate 58: Initial Explorations: Shankha........................................................................................... 38 Plate 59: Initial Explorations: Krishna ............................................................................................ 38 Plate 60: Initial Explorations: Yali................................................................................................... 39 Plate 61: Initial Explorations: Durga............................................................................................... 39 Plate 62: Close up view of Traditional Neckpiece .......................................................................... 40 Plate 63: Model wearing the traditional neck piece ...................................................................... 40 Plate 64: Model wearing the Yali on glass neck piece ................................................................... 41 Plate 65: Close up view of Yali on glass ......................................................................................... 41 Plate 66: Close up view of the Blue Chelsea neck piece ................................................................ 41 Plate 67: Model wearing the Blue Chelsea neck piece .................................................................. 41 Plate 68: Model wearing the Yali on Turquoise neck piece ........................................................... 42 Plate 69: Close up view of Yali on Turquoise neck piece ............................................................... 42 Plate 70: Model wearing the Orange Carnillion Earring ................................................................ 42 Plate 71: Close up view of the Orange Carnillion Earring .............................................................. 42 Plate 72: Close up view of Mother of Pearl Tanjore Earring.......................................................... 43 Plate 73: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl Earring................................................................... 43 Plate 74: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl ............................................................................... 43 Plate 75: Close up view of the Mother of Pearl ............................................................................. 43 Plate 76: Model wearing the Mother of Pearl neckpiece (abstract) ............................................. 44 Plate 77: Close up view of the Mother of Pearl neckpiece (abstract) ........................................... 44 Plate 78: Close up view of the Tanjore on wood neckpiece .......................................................... 44 Plate 79: Model wearing the Tanjore on wood neckpiece ............................................................ 44 62