Rapport de Veille Salon

Transcription

Rapport de Veille Salon
RAPPORT DE VEILLE SALON
13-16 September 2010
Paris, Le Bourget
Pour tous renseignements : contact@veillesalon.com
Tél. 08 71 57 21 78 - Fax. 01 34 35 04 89
Une prestation réalisée par la société VIEDOC
Un site produit et édité par VIEDOC Solutions
rue Helene
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8 rue de Malleville, 95880 2
Enghien
les bains
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Sites web : www.veillesalon.com et www.viedoc.fr
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SUMMARY
Abstract ................................................................................................................................................... 4
Introduction............................................................................................................................................. 5
Fabrics China Creation pavilion ............................................................................................................... 6
Sustainable textiles.................................................................................................................................. 9
Technical textiles ................................................................................................................................... 15
Designers & Fashion .............................................................................................................................. 18
Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 21
About Veille Salon / A propos de Veille Salon ....................................................................................... 22
Viedoc: Presentation ............................................................................................................................. 23
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DISCLAIMER
Ce rapport a été élaboré à partir des interviews réalisées par nos soins auprès des exposants
présents sur l’événement incriminé, de la collecte d’information et de son analyse lors des
conférences qui s’y sont tenues et de la compilation des résultats de recherches issus d’une
veille internet post-événement.
Ainsi, les données qui figurent dans ce rapport ont strictement valeur d’information. Bien
que l’objectif soit de diffuser des informations actualisées et exactes, VEILLE SALON ne peut
pas garantir le résultat et tout préjudice qui pourrait résulter de l’utilisation de ces
informations ne pourra lui en être imputé. L’utilisation ou la reproduction de tout ou partie
de ce document est interdite sans l’accord écrit préalable de VEILLE SALON.
Pour obtenir l’intégralité des conditions d’utilisation de ce rapport, merci de nous contacter.
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ABSTRACT
At Texworld Paris 2010 held between 13 and 16 September at Le Bourget, the vast majority of
exhibitors came from Asia. Chinese suppliers were by far the most represented, and a Chinese
pavilion with 17 selected companies was moreover organized.
Companies supplying sustainable textiles were put forward and organized around eco-friendly raw
materials, eco-friendly processes and social aspects.
Texworld offers a vast variety of textiles including wool, cotton, linen, polyester, nylon and spandex
fabrics in many different quality,colors and patterns. Amongst companies exhibiting at Texworld
Paris 2010 in the “technical textiles” area, one could find cool fabrics, breathable fabrics but also
bamboo charcoal added, germanium alloy added and jade mineral added fibers together with
scented fabrics.
For this latest edition, organizers invited fashion school Esmod and l’Académie Internationale de
Coupe de Paris, showing their will to make Texworld an all together international textile, apparel and
fashion fair.
Key words :
fabric, textile, fiber, apparel, garment, designer, cloth, fashion, Fabrics China Creation Pavilion,
sustainable, eco-friendly, technical, scented, wool, cotton, hemp, silk, linen, polyester, spandex,
recycled, color changing, cool, breathable, bamboo charcoal, jade, germanium
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INTRODUCTION
Organized by Messe Frankfurt, this biennal event is a place where, on 33,330 m2 and during four
days, textile manufacturers meet with their clients: clothing manufacturers, textile and garment
retailers and wholesalers, designers… With more than 800 exhibitors, this fair has become a business
platform for the textile and clothing industry.
The vast majority of exhibitors at Texworld Paris 2010 came from Asia. China, Taiwan, South Korea,
India, Pakistan and Turkey being the countries by far the most represented. Other manufacturers
came mainly from other Asian countries including Japan, Indonesia and Thailand. A few came from
the middle East (Egypt, Lebanon). As for the very few European representatives, they came from
Italy, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands.
As in many other areas, sustainability is an issue for the textile industry and customers now await
products which are environmentally friendly. More and more textile companies now highlight the
fact that their raw materials and/or processes are environmentally friendly. Whereas recycled fibres
were in the past associated with poor quality and finish, they are now a selling point, and many
manufacturers have them in their porfolio. Some innovative functional fabrics containing “natural”
additives are also emerging.
Concerning technical textiles, besides the breathable, waterproof and windproof fabrics, some new
features have appeared such as temperature-sensitive textiles and scented fabrics.
This textile fair is evolving as besides traditional textile suppliers one could also find in this
27thTexworld edition companies proposing ready-to-wear apparels, accessories and garments.
Texworld Paris 2010 also made room for creation with a corner dedicated to fabric material and color
trends, and an exhibition of creations from Esmod fashion school students.
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FABRICS CHINA CREATION PAVILION
China is the biggest fabric and apparel supplier to western companies.
At Texworld and for the third time round, Messe Frankfurt, the organizer, invited China Textile
Information Center. Seventeen Chinese suppliers were selected and gathered in the form of a
pavilion which was divided into two areas: the trend forum and the exhibitors’ area.
For the fifth time round, Texworld hosted the CTAF – China Textile and Apparel Trade Fair – which
groups together around a hundred companies specialising in clothing production. Their aim is to
develop a range of high-end products which will meet the requirements of Western markets in terms
of quality and style. These manufacturers came from the regions of Beijing, Jiangsu, JueXi or Zhejiang
and offered fine embroidery, supple silks or knits.
The number of exhibitors at CTAF having almost doubled in size for the next Texworld show bears
witness to intentions to strengthen the economic and professional ties between China and the
European markets. “Our participation at Texworld is an opportunity to forge ties and to create longterm collaboration between our exhibitors and clients in the West. We offer endless ranges of very
different products that meet the needs firms may have, and we set up whatever is necessary to best
respond to our clients’ demands for quality and prompt delivery”, explained Zhang Tao, from the
Chamber of Commerce for the Chinese Textile Industry.
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SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES
Just like in many other areas, customers now want environmentally-friendly fabrics.
Various kinds of organic and sustainable textiles are readily available now. Some like
recycled polyester or Lyocell are relatively new, others like hemp or organic cotton
have been on the market for many years already.
Leading experts from textile organisations and enterprises discussed the question of how sustainable
textiles have developed in the market, their future market share and business potential during a
conference. Speakers from the Soil Association, Fairtrade Labelling Organisations, Lenzing and
Organic Exchange outlined to textile manufacturers and buyers’ the various kinds of organic and
sustainable textiles that are readily available, potential future market share and their commercial
impact.
In addition, approximately 100 suppliers of organic cotton and linen,hemp, recycled material or other
sustainable textiles were present. Texworld exhibitors are now starting to bring their eco offers
towards the front of their booths instead of hiding them away at the back as buyer interest continues
to grow.
Organic material and fairtrade products were most prominent at the last edition of Texworld.
Suppliers fromTurkey, India, Pakistan, Taiwan and other countries presented certified organic cotton,
selected natural fibres, recycled polyester and other eco-friendly fibres such as Tencel, Modal,
Sonora.
“The number of textile mills offering eco-textiles at Texworld-Paris has grown by 25%, as visitors
continue to demand new fabrics that have a reduced impact on the environment”, said John
Mowbray from EcoTextile News.
Around 122 fabric mills from a total of around 800 exhibitors were offering certified eco-textiles as
part of their collections, which equates to a significant 15% of the total number of Asian textile
producers at the show. Some exhibitors are even switching their complete collections over to
sustainable fabrics, according to HL Ding, the President of China-based Hemp Fortex Industries,
which supplies organic linen, recycled polyester, recycled and organic cotton and hemp fabrics.
Recycled denim fabrics were seen in the ‘Eco-fabric’ trend area of the show including light-weight,
soft with up to 30% recycled cotton content. These denims have a uniform, clean fabric surface
despite the inclusion of shorter staple length recycle fibres, and are similar in weight and appearance
to the 100% organic cotton denims. Chinese company Rih Jane Fibre is using 45% recycled Coolmax,
and there is a noticeable increase in the number of collections using Lenzing’s Tencel with suppliers
heavily promoting its environmental benefits.
GOTS companies
Bernd Mueller, project director at Messe Frankfurt, the organiser of Texworld said: “We have 51
exhibitors at Texworld who now have the GOTS (Global Organic Textile) standard for organic textiles
– this is up from 30 companies this time last year”. Mueller noted that there were many new
developments at the growing eco-trend forum: “in addition to the traditional organic fabrics we see
a noticeable increase in the breadth of the colour palette where bright reds and deep blues
compliment the more neutral shades often associated with organic.”
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Two of India’s largest cotton fabric producers JCT and Vardhmann said they were now going through
the stringent EU Eco-Label certification process. This is a considerable challenge given the large
volumes that these two companies produce.
At Texworl Paris 2010, Eco-friendly companies were labeled with grey, green blue or brown leaves
according to the following code.
Lenzing
Address :
Werkstraße 2
4860 Lenzing
Austria
Phone.: +43 (0)7672 701-0
www.lenzing.com
Austrian group Lenzing is a supplier of high-quality, innovative
products made from cellulose fibers. Lenzing fibers are made
from the natural raw material wood which contains about forty
percent of cellulose.
The natural origin contributes to the fibers‘ excellent properties
such as absorbency and moisture management, the industrial
production process provides clearly defined, uniform quality.
As showed in the following table, Lenzing fibers are cellulose-based man-made fibers . Their famous
brands are Modal and Tencel, Viscose and Lenzing FR.
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The different types of fibres (source: Lenzing)
Lenzing endeavor themselves to make their fibers ever more environmentally friendly in reducing
for instance water consumption during manufacturing process.
At Texworld 2010, The Lenzing Innovation pavilion gathered textile manufacturers using Lenzing
fibers, especially Modal and Tencel. These asian suppliers came from China (10), India (1), South
Korea (4) and Taiwan (4).
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Zhangjiagang Aoyang Wool Fabrics
Address :
European Industrial Park
Zhangjiagang City, Jiangsu
China
http://www.aoyang.com
Contact :
Christina Guo
Sales
Phone : +86 512 58595603 8863
aoyangguo@163.com
Jiangsu Aoyang Industrial Group is a diversified enterprises group with wool spinning and weaving as
its core industry, located in European Industrial Park of Zhangjiagang City. It has 11 sub-companies,
one overseas office and one overseas sub-company. Its business scope covers worsted woolen
fabrics, garment, chemical fibers, wool yarn, tops, energy developing, printing packaging and
international trade. It is one of the largest export bases of woolen products in China.
Aoyang Industrial Group owns advanced worsted woolen fabrics equipment, including wool scouring,
wool carding, wool spinning, weaving and finishing devices. Above 90% of the devices, including
advanced inspection devices and CAD systems, were imported from EU or Japan. Every year it
develops more than a thousand new products and patterns.
Zhangjiagang Aoyang Wool Fabric Co. Ltd proposes wool fabrics containing
between 40% and 60% of recycled wool content made with wool
reprocessed from industrial waste. Recycled wool fibers are usually
blended with synthetic fibers such as polyester and spandex for instance.
While this company has been recycling wool wastes for 20 years, it is now
a fact that their western customers such as H&M or Gap like to promote
when selling apparels.
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TECHNICAL TEXTILES
Although Texworld is not a technical textile fair, some textile suppliers proposed interesting fabrics
suitable for outdoor, sports apparels having properties such as thermal insulation, cool feeling, antiodor, anti-mosquito…
However, it should be said that only a few of them proposed really new products as functional
textiles used in sportswear for instance have been on the market for many years now.
PU lamination and coating for instance give fabrics properties such as waterproofing and
breathability.
Win Trend International Co
Address :
12F-1, N°150, Jian Yi Road
Chung Ho City, Tapei Hsien
Taiwan
http://www.wintrend.com.tw
Contact :
Ken Chang
General Manager
Phone: 886-2-82265198
wintrend@ms11.hinet.net
Win Trend International proposes 3 fiber modified technical fabrics. The fabrics may be surface
treated in which case any fibre can be used. For a long lasting effect which does not disappear upon
washing the apparel or the garment, the fibers have to be treated during yarning. Good results have
only be obtained so far with polysester and nylon fibers.
Germanium alloy added fibers are used to make fabrics with the following
features:
1. Far infrared ray allowing to keep the body warm.
2. Deodorizing effect
3. Anti-static effect
4. Negative ions to neutralize the environment.
5. Fast drying
These fabrics are especially useful to make outdoor wear, sportswear, casual wear and thermal wear.
However the price of this fabric is about 40% more expensive than the same fabric made from nonmodified polyester or nylon fibers.
Adding particles of Jade mineral to polyester allows to get a fabric having an cool
feel. Wearing cool icy functional textiles can lower the body temperature by 12℃. Calculation has shown that this effect can help lower air conditioning
temperature by 1℃ and therefore save 3-5% electric power and reduce carbon
dioxide emission. The fabric made with this treated fibers has the following
features and is particularly useful for outdoor wear, sportswear and casual wear:
Cool Touch, Anti-UV, Fast drying
Bamboo charcoal is added to the polyester yarns in order to confer special
properties to the fibers. The properties of the fabrics thus obtained are:
1. Far Infrared Ray helping keep the body warm
2. Odor Elimination
3. Minus Ions to neutralize the environment
4. Fast drying
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The bamboo stems are sintered at 1200°C and the bamboo charcoal fine particles are then added to
the polyester fibers. In order to get textiles with brighter colors, the charcoal particles may be silicacoated in order to make “white bamboo charcoal”. The textile colors are then much more vivid. This
bamboo added textile is about 25% more expensive than identical textile made with non-modified
polyester fibers.
In addition to these technical textiles, this company also propose a scented fabric whose effect last
up to 20 washing up.
Wujiang Qingyou Fiber Co. Ltd.
Address :
No. 1, building 3
North Textile Zone
Shengze Town
http://qingyou.en.gongchang.com
Contact :
Mr Mingwei
vito@guding.com
Phone: 86-512-63515623
Established in 2004, Wujiang Qingyou Fiber Co. Ltd. specializes in the design, development and
production of chemical fiber fabrics. This company has a workforce of over 100 people, and exports
80% of its products to South Korea, Russia, Southeast Asia and the Middle East.
This company was the only one at Texworld Paris 2010 to propose a
fabric that changes color upon heating. According to the sales
represenative, any woven or knitted fabric, including polyester,
cotton and nylon, can be treated. Patterns fade away as the fabric
cools down.
- The temperature range upon which the color change appear can be
tailored according to the need (20, 30 or 40 °C).
- This effect, obtained through coating, last for up to 20 washings.
- This very special fabirc is $1.2 per meter more expensive than nontreated fabric when there is a pattern, and $2.5 per meter for plain
full effect fabric.
For the time being, this function has only been used to make fancy clothes, but one could imagine
some “intelligent” applications for this very interesting product (fever indicator for instance…) also
available in plain color without any pattern. In this cas, the fabric color changes to a lighter shade.
Qingyou Fiber booth also featured a so called “air conditioning fabric” abble to lower body
temperature by 3 °C. Woven polyester, nylon and cotton fabrics can be treated and the effect is ever
lasting according to the company. These fabrics cost $1.5 per meter more than non-treated ones.
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Techarme Apparel Co. Ltd
Address :
Building C, No.192, Lane 95, Sec. 2
Hezun N. Road
Jhongli City
Taoyuan County 32060
Taiwan
www.techarme.com.tw
Contact :
Jerry Huang
jerryhuang@techarme.com.tw
Phone: 0912-927-968
Based in Taipei, Techarme Apparel Co., is a garments supplier specialized in outdoor apparels.
Their award wining AirDown Lining Vest is patented worldwide, and they provide custom-ready
range of AirDown vest and jacket for customer to put their own labels.
AirDown Lining Vest can fit into all kinds of jacket and vest without changing the apparence design.
This invovation has been fitted into ski jacket, motocycle jacket, fishing vest, work jacket, military
coat, casual jacket and even high fashion trench coat. The company also produces bags such as
laptop protective bags and backpacks.
One vest fits all weathers from -30°C to 15°C. The body temperature is easily regulated by adjusting
the amount of air inside the jacket as the trapped air is the best insulation component to keep the
body warm. The idea is to blowing air into the vest when cold and deflate the air when warm.
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DESIGNERS & FASHION
“Because today's talents and creativity are tomorrow's business”, Texworld Paris 2010 supported 10
young students designers from the international design school ESMOD Paris, who had the
opportunty to meet some exhibitors who sponsored them with fabrics to create their graduate
collections. These collections were showcased at Texworld in the area "Designers & Fashion".
Texworld organised another event with the help of the Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris: a
real workshop was set up where teachers and students were working under visitors’ eyes during the
four days of the exhibition. This academy, which is private but whose qualifications are recognised by
the state, holds continuous education courses to teach around 200 young people or adults to
become pattern-makers and cutting artists.
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CONCLUSION
The organisers recorded nearly 15 000 entries at Texworld Paris 2010 - 0,7% less than during
september 2009 Texworld. The real number of visistors is however on the increase with +3,3%
compared to same month last year.
Visitors could meet with 885 exhibitors - 15 % more than last year – amongst which 150 apparel
manufacturers. Texworld is not anymore a textile only trade fair as Messe Frankfurt, the organizer
have shown during this latest edition their will to make it an alltogether Textile and Apparel Fair.
The next Texworld show will be held at Paris-le Bourget exhibition centre on 7-10th February 2011.
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ABOUT VEILLE SALON / A PROPOS DE VEILLE SALON
Lancé officiellement depuis le début de l’année 2010 par la société de veille et d’intelligence
économique VIEDOC Consulting, VeilleSalon.com est le premier service professionnel de veille salon
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Outre des fonctionnalités puissantes de recherches multicritères (dates, lieux, mots-clés, secteurs,
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VIEDOC: PRESENTATION
VIEDOC est une société au cœur de l’information. Elle constitue un véritable partenaire des
entreprises de la stratégie à l’opérationnel.
VIEDOC a pour vocation d’aider ses clients dans les phases amont de leurs activités (intelligence
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activités de la société VIEDOC.
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www.veillesalon.com
Un service proposé par :
VIEDOC SARL
2 Rue Helene Boucher
78280 GUYANCOURT (France)
Tél : +33 (0)1 34 35 04 89
Email : info@viedoc.biz
Site : www.viedoc.fr
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