a selection of jewellery collections to tempt your male customers

Transcription

Jewellery
X
August 2011 www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk £5.95 ISSN 2046-7265
FOCUS
Beautiful Wedding Rings, Amazing Prices!
Full Online Catalogue
www.Goldmarkuk.com
IJL STAND H129
Masculine adornment: a selection of jewellery collections to tempt your male customers
XX The many benefits of incorporating more than one precious metal in jewellery designs
XX Also inside: IJL organisers and exhibitors reveal highlights of the forthcoming event
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CONTENTS
6
Jewellery
August 2011
FOCUS
FEATURES
Visual juxtapositions 24
Combining different metals can add a new dimension
to jewellery design, as well as providing a wider
choice for customers, as Rebecca Hoh discovers
28
Image: Simon Powell
A man’s world A selection of the latest men’s jewellery
collections to inspire those looking to enter or
to grow their share of the masculine market
IJL 2011 36
Organisers and exhibitors highlight some of the
delights that await visitors to the International
Jewellery London (IJL) event in September
Success stories 56
24
54
Louise Hoffman catches up with Emma Boat,
diamond buyer for Aurum Holdings, to hear a
little about the group’s business strategies
Focus on pearls 56
Jon Chapple examines some of the pearl
jewellery collections that are ready to tempt
your customers this autumn/winter season
Fantastic plastic 68
36
68
Chris Davies, managing director of HSBC
Merchant Services, explains how to increase your
profits through additional customer spend
28
Regulars
16
Editor’s letter Roundup The latest news
from the industry
Janet Fitch As this extra-creative
summer season
continues, Janet
identifies a few of
the designs that have
caught her eye over
the past month
Keith Fisher With so many
flamboyant,
complication-driven
designs flooding the
men’s watch market,
Keith identifies a
company that is
bucking the trend
8
10
How do they do that? 22
16
Taking stock Ones to watch Trends in timepieces
20
22
Michael Hoare 32
Designer of the month 50
Following criticism of the recent Channel
4 documentary about the gold industry,
Michael comments upon the complexities
of maintaining a good reputation
Louise Hoffman discovers the
dramatic, culture-inspired design
world that is inhabited by awardwinning jeweller Tomasz Donocik
60
This month Anu Manchanda
of AnchorCert explains how
some of the most popular pearl
treatments are carried out and
how they can be identified
New offerings from
the industry
Leonard Zell Why do salespeople avoid
turning over a sale when
they are struggling? And how
can you rectify the situation?
Leonard has the answers
Industry data Events Voice on the highstreet John Cussell of John
Cussell, Grantham
62
64
70
72
81
50
8
EDITOR’S LETTER
Editor’s letter
T
his year’s International Jewellery London (IJL)
event will be a key indicator of the current
state and predicted future of the jewellery
sector, in terms of footfall, order placing and
general sentiment. Exhibitor numbers are healthy,
putting the industry on the front foot as we embark
on this annual four-day extravaganza once again,
but with dented consumer confidence, flattening
retail sales and falling hallmarking figures, the
question of when the recovery will really begin is
growing increasingly urgent.
One of the most difficult aspects of this situation
is remaining positive in the face of adversity. Realism is of course
necessary, but sacrificing yourself to the doomsayers will only serve in
compounding the problem; negative energy is, unfortunately, potent
stuff, and can easily be passed on to customers and colleagues through
words and body language. Trade shows are prime examples of an
environment in which both positivity and negativity can be fostered,
and I hope we can all work together to cultivate a good trading
environment at Earls Court this September.
As is customary for the August issue of Jewellery Focus, contained
in the following pages is a preview of the upcoming IJL event. I
caught up with event manager Syreeta Tranfield to find out about the
improvements that have been made for 2011, and the highlights that
visitors can expect over the four days (page 36); and some 38 exhibitor
companies provide appetite-whetting descriptions of the products and
services that will be on show (starting on page 38). So why not begin
planning your visit to ensure you gain as much knowledge, enjoyment
and stock inspiration as possible? After all, it’s not only money that
needs to be invested wisely; time is also valuable.
Jewellery
FOCUS
Editor
Louise Hoffman
louise@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Editorial Assistant
Jon Chapple
jon@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Production Assistant
Lewis Bowes
copy@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Group Advertisement Manager
Kelly Smith
kelly@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Sales Executive
Katie Thurgood
katie@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Accounts
Maureen Scrivener
accounts@jewelleryfocus.co.uk
Customer Services
01206 767 797
customers@mulberrypublications.co.uk
Contributing writers:
Anu Manchanda • Chris Davies
Janet Fitch • Keith Fisher
Leonard Zell • Michael Hoare
Rebecca Hoh
Design
Arthouse Publishing Solutions Ltd
01394 410 490
contact@arthousepublishing.co.uk
In support of:
I hope you enjoy the magazine and the month ahead.
Jewellery Focus
ISSN 2046-7265
is published monthly by:
This month’s cover features
Mulberry Publications Ltd,
Wellington House, Butt Road,
Colchester CO3 3DA
GOLDMARK
Tel: 01206 767 797
Fax: 01206 767 532
Unison wedding rings are proving a popular choice
for today’s price conscious retailer, says Goldmark.
The company specialises in bespoke manufactured
wedding rings and diamond jewellery, and has
a complete range of products and services to
complement its brands. For more information and to
order an information pack, Goldmark invites you to
visit its website and register online.
Information: 01268 833 082 or www.goldmarkuk.com
www.jewelleryfocus.co.uk
The editor and publishers do not
guarantee the accuracy of statements
made by contributors or advertisers, or
accept responsibility for any statement
that they express in this publication.
The opinion of the contributors may
not necessarily be the opinion of the
publishers. Articles are considered for
publication on the basis that they are
the author’s original work. No part of
this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or
transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying or
otherwise, without the permission of
the publishers.
Sapphires and Diamonds
Exquisite Jewellery
by
Sheldon Bloomf ield
0113 243 0100 www.sheldonbloomf ield.com heidi @ sheldonbloomf ield.co.uk
10
ROUNDUP
And briefly
WFDB deplores breakdown
of Kinshasa KP talks
Avi Paz, the president of the World
Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB),
has condemned the breakdown of the
latest round of Kimberley Process (KP)
talks in the capital of the Democratic
Republic of the Congo, Kinshasa. He
said that the “uncompromising positions
taken by some KP members” and the
ensuing lack of agreement on the issue of
rough diamond exports from Zimbabwe’s
disputed Marange diamond fields would
be detrimental, in particular, to the
downstream end of the diamond supply
pipeline, and compared KP members to
a quarrelling household.
Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn success
Springboard Events, the organiser of
the Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn retail
show, has reported a 20 per cent jump
in exhibitor numbers compared to
bookings for last year’s event. The show,
which will be held at Glasgow’s SECC
on the 18 and 19 September, has a wide
range of jewellery exhibitors and gives
retailers in Scotland an opportunity to
source final stock before Christmas.
Europe-wide patent draws closer
A single European patent is
looking increasingly likely after
ministers reached a number of
important agreements – including
on the languages regime and
some technical details of the
planned patent itself – at the
Competitiveness Council in
Luxembourg during the last week
of June. Intellectual property
minister Baroness Wilcox said she
believes the creation of a single
European patent and patent court
is “crucial for UK industry.”
BCU offering usual summer
short courses
Birmingham City University’s (BCU)
School of Jewellery has announced it
will once again be running its celebrated
jewellery-related short courses
throughout this summer. The school,
located in the heart of the city’s historic
Jewellery Quarter, has been running
the courses – which cover a variety of
subjects, from polishing to CAD design
and gemmology – for 20 years, with
a list of famous alumni that includes
Jessica Turrell and Dagmarr Korecki.
Courses vary in length from one to five
days, and began at the end of June. For
more information, visit www.bcu.ac.uk
Swiss watch exports up
30 per cent in May
The Swiss watch industry made great
strides in May, with a second consecutive
month of growth in excess of 30 per
cent, the Federation of the Swiss Watch
Industry has said. Watch exports during
May attained a value of SFr1.6 billion
(£1.18 billion), in a year-on-year
increase of 31.6 per cent. Budget
watches with a wholesale price of less
than SFr200 (£147) and higher-end
models costing more than SFr500 (£368)
registered the highest increases, with the
former up by nearly 40 per cent in both
value and volume.
Industry criticises one-sided dirty
gold Channel 4 investigation
A Channel 4 investigation into dirty gold has been greeted with disappointment from
representatives of the UK jewellery industry.
The Real Price of Gold, an episode of the long-running Dispatches series broadcast on
the 27 June, showed shop assistants from a number of prominent high street stores
providing incorrect information regarding the source of the gold in their jewellery, but
was condemned by the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and British Jewellers’
Association (BJA), who were not called upon to make comment despite their collective
status as the largest representative of the trade in the UK.
A statement from the two organisations conceded that although the programme
was useful for consumers and raised some “interesting and worthwhile” points about
some of the issues the jewellery industry currently faces, it did not address in full
the “various initiatives that are being undertaken by the gold industry and jewellers”;
instead presenting a simplistic view of an industry that doesn’t care about the
provenance of its materials.
The programme came under particular fire for presenting recycled gold as an ethical
or morally-superior alternative to newly-mined gold; counter to the NAG and BJA’s
position that such newly-mined gold is “critically important to countries such as Ghana,
Mali and Peru, which benefit from the investment and tax revenues generated,” and
where artisanal miners’ lives “depend on the sale of the gold they mine.” Criticism was
also levelled at the programme’s host – ethical travel entrepreneur Deirdre Bounds – for
an alleged lack of knowledge about the industry.
“The programme… glossed over all the work of the initiatives that are well underway in
addressing the issues we are acutely aware of,” said the joint NAG-BJA Ethics Committee
response to the programme. “Achieving a fully transparent system takes international
effort, and both the NAG and the BJA remain fully committed to driving this forward for
the British jewellery industry.”
For further comment on this subject, turn to page 32.
New hallmark kicks off the 2012
Diamond Jubilee celebrations
The British jewellery and precious metals industries celebrated in style on the 6 July at a glittering
event to launch the commemorative hallmark for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.
Sector representatives including retailers, designers and manufacturers gathered in
Goldsmiths’ Hall at an event jointly hosted by the Goldsmiths’ Company and the four UK
assay offices and attended by Her Royal Highness Princess Michael of Kent (pictured), who
witnessed the first jubilee marks being formally struck.
The creation of a celebratory Diamond Jubilee hallmark follows a tradition established in
the 20th century, when commemorative hallmarks recognised the Silver Jubilee of George
V and Mary in 1935, and the coronation of Elizabeth II in 1953 and her Silver and Golden
Jubilees in 1977 and 2002, respectively.
The Diamond Jubilee mark is additional to the three compulsory hallmarks, the town mark,
fineness mark and sponsor’s mark, and will add provenance to items marked between now and
the 1 October 2012. The Birmingham Assay Office said jewellery and silverware items bearing
the commemorative hallmark are expected to be in high demand over the next 18 months as
the Diamond Jubilee celebrations and the London Olympics “make 2012 a year to remember.”
11
Retail sales volume flat in June as
customers feel the pinch, says CBI
Celebrity
endorsement
The volume of high street sales was flat in June compared to a year earlier, disappointing
retailers’ expectations of growth, according to the Confederation of British Industry (CBI).
The CBI’s latest Distributive Trades Survey revealed that 33 per cent of retailers saw sales
volumes increase on a year ago, compared to 34 per cent reporting a fall, meaning that the
resulting rounded balance of -2 per cent is the first time in a year that sales have not grown.
Looking ahead, retailers expect sales to likewise remain flat during July.
Judith McKenna, chair of the CBI Distributive Trades Panel and ASDA chief financial
officer, explained: “After a year of growth, high street sales volumes fizzled out in June.
Consumers are really feeling the pinch, as disposable incomes continue to be squeezed by
rising prices and weak earnings growth.
“The cost of living is increasing, and petrol prices have risen particularly sharply. Shoppers
are budgeting hard and cutting back on their discretionary spending… and household
budgets are likely to remain tight over the coming months, with inflation edging higher as
increases in domestic gas and electricity prices take effect.”
Rox celebrates awards triumph
Jewellery retailer Rox has been named Retailer of the Year at the sixth Scottish Fashion
Awards, becoming the first jeweller to ever take home the prize.
Rox beat off competition from clothing brands Spoiled Brat and Mackintosh and
womenswear designer Bunmi Koko to scoop the award at a
celebrity-studded ceremony at the Glasgow Science Centre
on the 15 June. High-profile guests in attendance included
Lulu, Dame Shirley Bassey and the Prime Minister’s wife,
Samantha Cameron, in her role as a British Fashion Council
ambassador.
The organiser of the awards attributed Rox’s win to
its “quality product, elegance, premium designer brands,
unrivalled customer service, luxurious shopping environment
and uncompromising commitment to closely follow trends.”
Rox’s Kyron Keogh (pictured with co-owner Grant Mitchell)
commented: “To win Retailer of the Year is truly incredible
and we are absolutely thrilled. It’s an honour to be recognised
at an event of this stature and it is fantastic exposure for our
brand on a global scale.
“This is a huge achievement for our team and comes as a
very welcome surprise on a night where we were delighted to
even be nominated.”
CMJ group reports 70 per cent
sales growth over the past year
The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) reported another record-breaking year of sales at its
annual general meeting and business conference, held on the 12 and 13 June. Sales through
the buying group were up 70 per cent on the previous year, rising from £45.27 million to
£76.88 million.
This latest period of strong growth comes on the back of a successful three years’ trading
for the CMJ, which has seen sales rocket 161 per cent from £28 million in 2009.
Announcing the figures, CMJ finance director Dominic Wakefield said: “What is especially
encouraging is that while our biggest members have enjoyed growth, it is the middle tier of
our members that we have seen putting more sales through the group this year.”
The CMJ has grown its business by attracting more high-end and mini-multiple retailers,
including new members TJ Davies of Aberystwyth and the Fish Brothers Group of London
and the south east, along with a raft of new
suppliers. The newest supplier to join is
fashion watch brand Toywatch.
Speakers at the two-day event included
Echochamber co-founder Howard
Saunders; diamontaire Jean Paul Tolkowsky;
Metamorphosis visual merchandising
consultant Eve Reid; Adorn Insight trend
forecaster Juliet Hutton-Squire; Gemma
Cartwright from Fairtrade and Fairmined
Gold; and CMJ member Steff Suter, from
Steffans in Northampton.
David Coulthard,
TW Steel
Dutch watchmaker TW Steel has
announced its collaboration with
former Formula One racing driver
David Coulthard on a limited edition
timepiece designed to celebrate the
Scot’s sporting career. Coulthard
holds 13 Grand Prix victories, having
competed for the Williams, McLaren
and Red Bull Racing teams from 1994
to 2008.
Available in 44 millimetre and
48 millimetre editions, the watch
features a sleek grey dial embossed
with Coulthard’s name and a grey
Italian leather strap. TW Steel says
the watch “offers a bold, sophisticated
look that perfectly captures the
luxurious associations that come from
[Coulthard’s] involvement in one of the
world’s most glamorous and appealing
sports – motor racing.”
ROUNDUP
Fei Liu leads charge at 2011
Lonmin Design Innovation Awards
Acclaimed jewellery designer Fei Liu has triumphed for a second time in this year’s Lonmin
Design Innovation Awards, winning in the ‘Established Designers’ grouping for those that have
been in the industry for more than five years. Liu took home his first Lonmin gong in 2009, with
his Aeon earrings (pictured) and Allure ring.
Zoë Harding and Anna Loucah also prevailed in the Established
Designers category, while Leyla Abdollahi, Alexander Davis, Anthony
Roussel, Laura Strand and Sarah Ho were recognised as the best
‘Emerging Designers’.
Liu said it was “a great honour” to win the award for a second
time, and added: “I feel it is important that we continuously push the
boundaries of the materials available to us.”
The platinum-based competition is now in its ninth year, and is
sponsored by platinum mining company Lonmin Plc. The designers
will unveil their winning pieces in September, when they will be
displayed on the Johnson Matthey stand and worn by models at an
awards party at the International Jewellery London show.
A tribute to jeweller Tony Rudell
Tony Rudell, owner of renowned Wolverhampton jewellers Rudells, has died suddenly after
suffering a severe stroke at his home on the morning of the 19 May.
Mr Rudell, who led the Darlington Street shop for decades, was buried at the Birmingham
Jewish Cemetery on the 22 May in a ceremony attended by hundreds.
Born in 1946 to Justin and Etta Rudell, ‘Roundy’ – as he was known to friends – was involved in
the family business from the age of 20. As well as developing
Rudells, he was also keenly involved in charity work, tirelessly
raising money and awareness for a number of causes
including Cure Leukaemia and the Variety Club.
Jon Weston, managing director of Rudells, said his friend
would leave a lasting memory with those who knew him, as
a man with “indomitable spirit, unlimited kindness and an
inspirational love of life.”
He added: “To say that he will be greatly missed does not
adequately cover the huge loss that so many of us will feel. I
have lost a very, very close friend. Roundy has been like a
second father to me, but I will continue his wishes of ‘the
show must go on’ and practise the great things he has taught
me over the last 22 years.”
William and Catherine presented
with Canadian diamond jewellery
Image: Katrina Bowman
12
Their Royal Highnesses the Duke and Duchess
of Cambridge have been presented with a pair of
cufflinks and a brooch made from locally-mined
diamonds during the latest stage of their royal
tour of Canada.
The Duke and Duchess (pictured clad in
traditional attire at the Calgary Stampede)
were gifted the jewellery – which reportedly
took 250 hours to make from diamonds mined
in the Diavik Diamond Mine in the Northwest
Territories – by territory premier Floyd Roland in
the city of Yellowknife on the 5 July. Both pieces
were created by mining giant Harry Winston in a
polar bear design inspired by the emblem of the
500,000-square-mile territory.
Robert Gannicott, the chairman and CEO
of Harry Winston, said the gifts were meant to
represent the culture of the Northwest Territories
with a subtle, understated design. “What we
have attempted to do here is to stay away from
using large, prominent diamonds,” he explained,
“and instead use something that… reflects the
sort of design you see in the beadwork and the
craftsmanship of the Northwest Territories.”
Increased
footfall on
the back
of Houlden
Group tour
Houlden Group members are
reaping the benefits of the decision
to tour the Designs of Excellence
Collection, with the organisation
reporting “huge amounts of
publicity” and increased footfall in
member stores.
The Designs of Excellence
Collection was formed from
outstanding pieces of jewellery
chosen by the jewellery- and
watch-buying organisation from
the designers’ collections at the
Spring Fair Jewellery Show, and is
touring Houlden members’ stores
throughout the year.
Baker Brothers, a jeweller based
in Bedford, was the first member
to host the Collection, and
organised a number of in-store
events with the designers involved
in attendance.
Helen Haddow, who is
managing the initiative,
commented: “The response
from the membership has been
overwhelming, with almost no
available slots left for 2011. The
Collection has been a great way
for our members to create a buzz
and attract footfall to their stores,
and we’re delighted that they are
having so much success with it.”
Lizzie McAuley from Baker
Brothers added: “As the first
jeweller in the country to showcase
the Collection, we were thrilled
with how well it went, with many
customers and journalists coming
into the store and having a lot
of fun looking at and trying on
the pieces. It was an honour to
have Babette Wasserman, Sarah
Ho (pictured), Alexander Davis
and Rachel Galley all attend the
events we arranged, and it was a
great opportunity to hear about
their designs and the inspirations
behind them.”
14
ROUNDUP
And briefly
Aurum Holdings certified by the RJC
The Responsible Jewellery Council
(RJC) has announced that prestige
watch retailer Aurum Holdings, one of
the largest luxury jewellers in the UK,
has achieved certification, meeting
the “ethical, human rights, social and
environmental standards established
by the RJC’s member certification
system.” Aurum Holdings becomes the
sixth jewellery retailer to be certified
by the council. RJC CEO Michael
Rae described the partnership as
a “noteworthy advance in RJC UK
member certification.”
US giants to sell to UK
Iconic American department stores
Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s are
hoping to make a dent on the UK
jewellery market with new plans
to sell their jewellery directly to
British consumers online. The move
follows a tie-up of parent company
Macy’s Inc with ecommerce firm
FiftyOne, which is providing a digital
platform that will allow consumers
in the UK to shop in pounds and
take advantage of “cost-effective
international shipping rates.”
SaferGems foils alleged
jewellery thieves
Industry crime prevention initiative
SaferGems has, through the sharing of
valuable information between jewellery
employees and police forces across
the country, assisted in the arrest of
two men believed responsible for a
number of recent thefts across the
West Country. The NAG’s Michael
Hoare, a co-founder of SaferGems,
commented: “As a result of good
policing, the sharing of information
and the co-operation of jewellers,
they will hopefully receive a sentence
commensurate with their crimes.”
New studio space for Sophie Harley
Jewellery designer Sophie Harley will
launch her new studio in west London
in September. Following extensive
building work in the Westbourne
Studios in Notting Hill, Harley’s
refurbished studio (number 122) will
encompass an integrated workshop and
client areas for private commissions
and appointments. The studio will
reportedly be “refreshingly light and
modern,” mixing vintage mirrors and
antique style furnishings that reflect the
Sophie Harley brand.
Israel diamond industry recovery
The Israeli diamond industry has
continued its remarkable recovery
in the first half of 2011, according
to figures published by the Israel
Ministry of Industry, Trade and Labor’s
diamond controller Shmuel Mordechai.
Net export of polished diamonds in the
first half of 2011 totalled $4.3 billion
(£2.69 billion), compared to $3 billion
in the same period last year. Since
January, Israel’s net polished diamond
exports have increased 33.9 per cent.
Net rough diamond exports stood at
$2.25 billion (£1.4 billion), compared
to $1.6 billion in the first half of 2010 –
a rise of 39.8 per cent.
Retail Trust launches ReWork
programme to help the unemployed
Industry charity Retail Trust has announced the creation of a new free scheme designed to
assist unemployed retail workers in dealing with redundancy and with finding new work. The
charity has reported seeing a worrying 40 per cent year-on-year increase in calls to its free
redundancy helpline (0808 801 0808) during June.
The ReWork programme, which Retail Trust says is worth over £1,000, includes a free
downloadable ‘resolving redundancy’ guide and monthly workshops in London, free personal
career coaching and links to retailers with current vacancies.
“These are very difficult times for people in retail,” commented Nigel J L Rothband, chief
executive officer of Retail Trust, “and – as our tagline states – Retail Trust is here to look
after everyone in retail, so that’s exactly what we’ll do. I would urge anyone worried about
redundancy, debt, stress or anything else at all to get in touch with our team, who are here to
support them when they need us the most.”
So Jewellery appoints new sales
agent for south east England
So Jewellery has announced the appointment of its first sales agent, Faye Miller, to look after
existing and prospective customers in the south east of England. Faye has previously worked
with Unique Jewellery, Elran and Kokkino, and joins So from Fable Trading, where she served
as a visual merchandiser on the Trollbeads brand.
“We are delighted that Faye is joining us,” stated Emma Finney,
So Jewellery’s marketing director. “We have seen first-hand the
excellent service and support Faye offers us in our own shop and
we are confident that our stockists will benefit significantly from
her contribution.”
A graduate in Design Crafts, Faye has a strong combination of
commercial and designer-maker experience, having spent some
nine years in a customer services role. She added: “So Jewellery
is fast becoming a sought-after brand, and I was very impressed
by both the quality of the jewellery and the strong brand identity,
which is backed up by strong POS and packaging. I am thrilled to
have been offered this opportunity and look forward to working
with our stockists to take the brand to the next level.”
Goldsmiths’ Company hands out
awards at New Designers
Part one of this year’s New Designers graduate design fair
concluded on the 2 July, and two days previous saw 13 “leaders of
the class of 2011” – two of them from a jewellery or metalsmithing
background – presented with New Designers Awards at a ceremony
at Islington’s Business Design Centre.
The jewellery-related awards were backed by the Goldsmiths’
Company, whose prime warden, Hector Miller, presented gongs
to Filipa Oliveira (pictured), winner of the Goldsmiths’ Company
Jewellery Award, and Bryony Jackson, who triumphed in the
Goldsmiths’ Award for Silversmithing.
Judging the awards were Lorna Watson, creative director of Astley
Clarke; jewellery industry professional and silversmith Mary Ann
Simmons; and Peter Taylor, director of technology and training at
the Goldsmiths’ Company. Of Filipa’s work, they said: “[It] mixes
contemporary form with the tradition of filigree, bringing it into a
refreshingly modern context,” while Bryony’s winning candlesticks
showed “a nice fluidity of movement, and are designed to create a
strong presence on the table.”
Both winning designers won a cheque for £1,000 and precious
metal to the value of £500. They have also been given places on the
Goldsmiths’ Company’s annual graduate business training course,
‘Getting Started’.
Isobel Dennis, director of the show – which is now in its 26th
year – praised the high standard of work, adding that the judges
commented on how strong contemporary applied arts was this year.
“There was a sense that the overall standard of presentation was
more professional and polished,” she said.
YEARS
OF GECKO
ELEMENTS
gold
2012 collection
Get a taste of Elements Gold’s latest delectable range at Gecko’s Stand F31 in IJL or
contact our sales team now to arrange for a visit from a dedicated area sales representative.
For more information telephone 01376 532 000 or email sales@geckojewellery.com
T: 01376 532 000 F: 01376 532 001 E: sales@geckojewellery.com
TRENDS
16
Little treasures
Janet Fitch discusses
a few of the jewellery
designs that have
captured her
imagination over the
past month, all of which
draw their inspiration
from culture and history
I
have always wondered if it would be better to take August
off and to holiday, like the French and Italians; especially
when I’ve been trying to keep children amused and out of
trouble during the school holidays as well as keeping up
with a demanding job.
Now, however, August starts with Pure London, the midto higher-end fashion trade show, with an ever growing
accessories area that this season will have over 70 fashion
jewellery brands, including launch collections from Zandra
Rhodes, and the new LoveRocks by Michael Waterman, the
original founder of Mikey Jewellery. (www.purelondon.com is at
London Olympia and Earls Court 2 from 7 to 9 August)
Meanwhile, I’ve picked a handful of the most interesting
collections I’ve just seen – all technically brilliant and
unusual. As I mentioned last month, I’ve seen a lot of new
work from graduates, and the Central Saint Martins’ show
was a real treasure trove, which demonstrated the talents of
the soon-to-be alumni preparing to embark on their careers.
Karen Rothwell is one – she has brought her technical
silversmithing skills to a new dimension with her Tutaonana
collection, exploring the 17th century Japanese technique
for forging metals: mokume-gane, which means wood-grain
metal. Patterns are created by layering precious metals into
billets, then firing them in a kiln until the metals are fused,
giving varying subtle wood-cut effects. (www.karenrothwell.com)
Sardinia is now a popular holiday destination, but I have
only just learned about the island’s tradition of fine filigree
jewellery. Last year, Andrea Usai – a Sardinian working in
the luxury travel business – and his architect wife Ansula,
realised that the traditional craft of filigree was under
threat from cheap imports and decided to set up an ethical
business – Sardinian Treasure – preserving the local skills,
and producing jewellery that uniquely uses threads as fine as
0.25 millimetres in diameter, used only for decoration, and
also 0.5 millimetre diameter threads, used for the structural
support of the jewellery. The results are woven, textured
pieces of silver or 18 carat gold jewellery, made by an ancient
method but in a modern and sophisticated style.
(www.sardiniantreasure.com)
Karen Rothwell
Sardinian Treasure
TRENDS
Thomas Sabo
Thomas Sabo is a fashion jewellery brand that is especially
newsworthy this season. Its new collections launch this
month, with the cutting edge seasonal collection based on
‘pop goes Asia’ – all things Chinese, from pandas and dolls
to Buddhist blessing symbols, fans and lanterns. There’s
a delicate Feather collection, and the bold Rebel at Heart
range for men, with dragon and sword pendants. The Classic
range in purple has a covetable matching purple watch, and
all the jewellery is in sterling silver with zirconia, enamel,
obsidian or onyx. (www.thomassabo.com)
I had a memorable outing to see the breathtakingly
beautiful and exquisitely crafted new high jewellery collection,
Bals de Legende, by Van Cleef and Arpels, launched in
London in the grand setting of Lancaster House (where
scenes from The King’s Speech were filmed). The collection is
Van Cleef and Arpels
inspired by five legendary balls of the 20th century: Le Bal du
Palais d’Hiver in Saint Petersbourg in 1903; Le Bal du Siecle
in Venice in 1951; Le Bal Black and White in New York in
1966; Le Bal Oriental in Paris in 1969; and Le Bal Proust in
Ferrieres in 1971. Since 1941, ballerina clips have featured in
Van Cleef and Arpels’ artistic heritage, and each ball has its
own dancer, with a decorative enamel container.
The stones used are rare, including a 20.12 carat
Colombian emerald, a natural pearl weighing 17.92 carats
and a 25.15 carat sapphire from Sri Lanka. A delicate
butterfly brooch transforms into a dancer; a ring for Le
Bal Oriental has, on closer inspection, a tiny elephant on
the side; and the jewels for Le Bal Black and White include
a necklace of pearls and diamonds evoking the Chrysler
Building. (balsdelegende.vancleef-arpels.com)
17
20
Watch this space
There are people out there who
refuse point blank to succumb
to the new giant watch trend,
with more circles on the face
than the Olympic emblem
Simple
beauty
With so many flamboyant, complicationdriven designs flooding the men’s
watch market, Keith Fisher identifies
a company that is bucking the trend
Watch this space
I
[These watches]
just represent
simple elegance,
which in my
humble opinion
has long been
neglected
t is quite remarkable, the revolution in the
world of men’s watches. Where once upon
a time a simple chronometer would suffice,
these days watches frequently resemble the
cockpit of a jumbo jet with their dizzying array
of complications. There are so many dials you
don’t know which one to look at first! Well, I
don’t, but that might have something to do with
my age, and eyesight.
Of course it is not just about satisfying the
market for the testosterone-filled young
men of our society. Oh no – most men of
all ages seek watches up to 50 millimetres
in diameter and boasting all the latest
complications just to get one over
on their mates, work colleagues and
anyone else who notices.
Try this one simple test: after years
of wearing a Big Ben on your wrist, get
out from your collection one of those tiny
watches we all used to wear and see the
difference. It is almost embarrassing to think
that we wore these as a matter of normality.
What particularly irks me is that I have a
collection of watches which I can no longer
wear because of their diminutive size! And they
are worth a bob or two; such is the price of
being trendy.
But there are people out there who refuse
point blank to succumb to the new giant watch
trend, with more circles on the face than the
Olympic emblem. And I am grateful to Andrew
Johnson for pointing this out to me.
Andrew is a watch dealer and has a fabulous
little shop called Harbour Times in Dorset. He
told me: “I have just introduced to my market
a relatively new range of watches called Danish
Design. They are totally different from the
huge watches which dominate. They are simple,
elegant and sophisticated. One of my customers
fell in love with them, bought one instantly and
came back for another.”
Sufficiently intrigued I had to know more.
Founded as recently as 1988, the company’s
motto rings through loud and clear: “The
intention is to refine Danish Design in these
watches, and to create simple but sculptural
timekeepers,” says the spiel. “Danish Design
watches are famous for their simple, elegant
and non-obstructive design for a very
affordable price.
“All cases are made of stainless steel, titanium
or tungsten and topped with either mineral
crystal or anti-reflective, scratch-resistant
sapphire crystal glass. The straps are either
made from genuine leather or rubber and the
bracelets are made from stainless steel, titanium
or tungsten.”
Three young Danish designers – Martin
Larsen, Anna Gotha and Lars Pedersen – have
now been joined by a fourth – Tirtsah – to
create a truly exciting new watch series.
There is nothing flashy about them – they
just represent simple elegance, which in my
humble opinion has long been neglected.
No – forgotten. They are both innovative and
uncomplicated, which is a breath of fresh air
these days.
But the devil in me wanted to know if
Danish Design had also created in its portfolio
the must-have ‘complication’ watches; and
if they had, how would they maintain their
fundamental elegant appearance? And then
I found them. I was so pleasantly surprised:
big; square or round; titanium, silver and gold
effect; 5atm; black ion plated; chronograph.
They looked magnificent.
I always get excited when a new kid on the
block hits the ground running, because it makes
a change from the same old names we trot out
time and again. And I mean no disrespect to
those watch companies.
The last word goes to Andy: “I know this
sounds very old fashioned in today’s world, but
the whole point of a watch is to tell the time
quickly, easily and effortlessly. Only after that is
it about how a watch looks on your wrist; it must
be pleasing to the eye. That is what I like about
Danish Design – it combines the both.”
Well said, Andy.
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22
NEW TIMEPIECES
The new Sportura collection draws on Seiko’s rich heritage to offer the real
sportsman a timepiece that is as appropriate for scuba diving as it is for
motorsport. With six alarm chronographs and three rugged kinetic diver’s
watches, Sportura delivers “precision timing, high durability, total security
and high legibility… in a design that is as sophisticated as it is practical.”
Information: 01628 770 988 or www.seiko.co.uk
RRP: £350
For ladies who appreciate “unique design, impeccable quality and affordable luxury,”
Christina Design London has revealed the new Christina Collect range. Christina
Collect watches allow wearers to create personalised timepieces to suit their own style
with a choice of straps – including 23 carat gold and stainless steel metal bracelets
and on-trend, block-colour leather straps – and gemstones, with diamond, sapphire,
ruby, amethyst, topaz and tsavorite to choose from. Each watch comes with one fullcut 0.01 carat diamond to get the customer started, and can be customised further
still with the addition of a bezel decorated with 64 diamonds.
Information: 01992 812 945
RRP: From £169
Ones
to watch
Elegant, dynamic and sport-smart, a.b.art says that
its understated, Swiss-engineered black O150 and
OC150 timepieces are “right on trend for discerning
men and fashionista women.” The O150 (pictured),
with its unique date-hole design picked out in bright
red, and the OC150, with a similar design for its
batons, will both be on show at IJL (stand G48).
Information: 01422 317 539 or www.abart-uk.com
RRP: £212
The Vintage Squared watch is the premium model
in the Kahn Timepieces collection by Kahn Design.
With rose gold casing complemented by a dark,
luxurious brown leather strap and deep black face,
this striking British design is manufactured to high
standards in Switzerland, delivering a watch with
“timeless style and flawless craftsmanship.”
Information: 01274 749 999 or www.kahntimepieces.com
RRP: £350
Mixed metals
Visual juxtapositions
Combining different metals can add a new dimension to jewellery
design, as well as providing customers with a wider range of styles
and price points to choose from, as Rebecca Hoh discovers
W
earing both gold and silver jewellery
was the ultimate fashion faux pas for
a long time, but with the current crop
of beautiful designs that mix precious
metals in one jewellery piece, that attitude is
continuing to change. With big names alongside
quirkier designer makers embracing the idea,
combination items are a great asset to your
shelves, from both an economical and aesthetic
point of view.
“It used to be jewellery etiquette ‘taboo’ to
mix silver and gold,” affirms UK designer
Alice Menter, who sells wholesale to shops
and boutiques, “so putting them together does
create a very contemporary ‘now’ look.”
Her striking items are made of everyday
objects, such as nuts, zips and bolts plated in
silver and gold, used in combination to brilliant
effect, including the striped statement cuffs
‘Isla’ and ‘Ruby’, along with combined strands
of silver and gold chain in both earrings and
necklaces. These continue to be some of her
most popular designs. “Mixing gold and
silver in contemporary pieces has developed
into a bit of a trademark for my designs. It
seemed like a natural step for me – I enjoy
using contrasting materials in my work and the
visual juxtaposition that these create, and I also
like my designs to make people take a second
look, and mixing the two metals in jewellery
design can create very eye-catching, intriguing
pieces; it’s almost like combining them creates a
completely new colour.”
West-Yorkshire-based Iain Henderson makes
both men’s and women’s jewellery, mixing
silver, platinum, palladium, white, yellow and
rose gold in both nine carat and 18 carat, as
well as silver and stainless steel. One piece – the
Union Ring, which starts at £71 wholesale –
can incorporate as many of these metals as the
wearer desires, encouraging consumers to select
their own types, widths and finishes (polished,
matt, hammered and plain).
“The Union collection has its origins in a
range that initially utilised only silver,” explains
Henderson. “To create a striking visual effect, I
began mixing matt and polished silver finishes,
but felt that I wanted to go even further and
create pieces that were richer, deeper and more
stunning in their visual appearance.” It was at
this point Henderson started experimenting
with mixing metals together, which has also
Alice Menter
Iain Henderson
Image: Simon Powell
24
Mixed metals
25
“Mixing two metals in jewellery
design can create very eyecatching, intriguing pieces; it’s
almost like combining them
creates a completely new colour”
Kimberley Selwood
Emma Turpin
Jane Macintosh
led to him drawing upon innovations from his
mechanical background. “My father restores
old motorbikes and I spent much time as a
child tinkering with engines. It was a natural
progression for me to begin using stainless
steel. The vision was there but a technical
problem existed as I tried to work out how
best to unify two different metals together in
one piece. I decided to utilise engineering
techniques, which have proved very effective
and have allowed me to unite different
metals that could not be joined using normal
soldering techniques.”
For the price-led consumer, a real advantage
of the Union collection is that Henderson can
advise on mixing specific metals according to
budget, while still achieving the desired design.
And for the consumer who likes added ‘bling’,
diamonds can also be incorporated.
Kimberley Selwood uses a combination of
silver and 18 carat gold in her work, which
features fine, detailed organic and Baroque
motifs and patterns, with elements picked
out in the gold. “Combining the colour and
properties of each metal allows the designs to
be enhanced,” she explains, before moving on
to the added financial benefits: “Using
18 carat gold as an accent means that the
jewellery can be affordable but also striking; by
using silver as the main element you can create
size, volume and form and then highlight the
design with the yellow gold.” She also feels
that using a colour mix means customers can
alternate their other jewellery and it will still
match. “For example, women often have yellow
gold wedding rings, and then find they are
limited to wearing yellow, but with my pieces
the accents ensure other types of aesthetic are
opened up to them.”
More beautiful ‘combination’ items come
from Emma Turpin, who will be exhibiting at
KickStart at this year’s IJL. Turpin’s Maiden’s
Garlands collection is inspired by traditional
British folklore and uses a mix of fine silver
sheet and sterling silver wire, creating a variety
of forms, including ones that resemble origami
flowers. All the rosettes are hand-folded from
fine silver, making each one unique and every
piece distinctive. The rosette is then combined
with the wire detail, producing a range that
extends from small stud earrings to large,
one-off sculptural rings. Finishes can also be
combined; Turpin offers all silver, silver with
oxidised detail, and silver with 22 carat yellow
gold plated detail.
Mixed metal offerings also come from
Jane Macintosh – a frequent exhibitor at the
Goldsmith’s Fair. She makes one-off pieces of

26
Mixed metals
“For the wearer, it means
the piece ca n be used with
most other jewellery without
wor rying about clashing”
jewellery using traditional goldsmithing skills,
and combines silver with high carat yellow and
white gold to give subtle contrasts of tone and
colour to her clean, symmetrical designs. She
has just begun experimenting with oxidising
sections of the silver, for a strong contrast and
dramatic effect.
Stack ring supplier Daisy Jewellery also finds
the benefits of the mixed metals to be clear, and
has been adamant that it was a look it wanted
to create. “Our stack rings are all 925 sterling
silver, but we wanted to use the 18 carat gold
plating as a highlight for the rings,” explains
Daisy’s James Boyd. “This is something that
is not used very much as many people seem
to have a phobia of mixing the two metals
aesthetically, but this style is exactly what we
wanted. We had to take into consideration the
price points we thought our customers would
want to pay for the product, as well as a margin
the stockist needs to make.” You can see the
striking result in the Butterfly Stack collection,
which continues to be a popular seller.
Another collection that makes the most of
mixing metals is by Ana Verdun, who – in her
own words – has been combining silver and
gold ‘for years’! “As long as it is done tastefully
I think it’s absolutely beautiful,” says Chiswickbased Verdun. “For the wearer, it means the
piece can be used with most other jewellery
without worrying about clashing. And for me
as a designer it means I can introduce colour
and contrast, accentuating certain details
and textures.” She currently works mainly in
sterling silver with 22 carat gold plate, which
keeps the retail price affordable. Verdun also
uses black rhodium plating, which she finds is a
great way to offer a strong contrast to the gold
plate. “My jewellery tends to be chunky but still
feminine (many people call my style ‘delicate
chunky’!), so using solid gold for these designs
is very expensive. However, using 22 carat
plating allows for a rich gold look without the
prohibitive cost,” she elaborates.
One of her most popular pieces is based on
eucalyptus gumnuts and seeds, pictured. “Here
I think the mix is visually stunning, and I make
them in both colourways to suit preferences. A
couple of clients have actually opted for one
of each! Not sure I’d wear them like that, but I
admire their quirkiness!”
Also shown is her bracelet formed from
the shape of an empty eucalyptus seedpod,
which has also sold very well. “Mixing the
metals here really brings the organic shape
and surfaces to life,” explains Verdun, “again
discovering a very simple natural motif and
turning it into a distinctive and eye-catching
piece of jewellery.”
Ana Verdun
Daisy Jewellery
Ana Verdun
Supplier listing
Alice Menter: www.alicementer.co.uk
Ana Verdun: www.anaverdun.com
Daisy Jewellery: www.daisyjewellery.com
Emma Turpin: www.emmaturpin.com
Jane Macintosh: www.janemacintosh.com
Kimberley Selwood: www.kimberleydesigns.co.uk
Iain Henderson: www.iainhenderson.co.uk
28
Men’s jewellery
A man’s world
With reports of men’s jewellery continuing to rise in popularity, here
is a selection of some of the latest masculine embellishments…
Babette Wasserman’s autumn/
winter collections are a celebration
of British eccentricities and sharp
tailoring. The Pinstripe cufflink
range features cat’s eye stone
stripes in bright pop colours,
hues of blues, or elegant white
mother of pearl and black pearl.
The Reverso Target range of
brightly coloured enamel target
cufflinks can be twisted on one
side to change the colour, enabling
the wearer to match them to
different outfits. Meanwhile the
Carbon Wave cufflinks, which were
launched in black last season, are
now available in blue and pink for
a subtle and stylish look with just
a flash of colour provided by the
carbon fibre hand-set into the side
of the cufflinks.
Information: 0208 964 9777 or
info@babette-wasserman.com
Designer Poly Philippou’s sculptural cufflinks are bold shapes made from
a single piece of solid metal with no moving parts. They come in four
designs, and can be worn as identical pairs or mixed-and-matched as a nonidentical but co-ordinating pair for a more unusual look. The pieces shown
here are made in solid silver and have a brushed finish. They are ideal for
engraving personal messages. Poly is also working on extending the range
to include different metals, different finishes and stones.
Information: 07775 658 833 or www.polyphilippou.com
Nick Hubbard Jewellery
offers a whimsical, fun and
masculine collection of
contemporary cufflinks,
tiepins and bold gents’ rings
and bangles. Finding his
inspiration from a love of
words and literature coupled
with a passion for comic
and fine art, Nick makes
his jewellery by hand from
hallmarked, oxidised silver
with gold embellishments.
www.nickhubbardjewellery.co.uk
Men’s jewellery
Creatures and folklore of the forest are
the inspiration for Corvid – a darkly
beautiful collection from men’s jewellery
designer Chris Hawkins. Known for his
unique, bold collections, which target an
increasingly discerning male market, this
latest offering is no exception. The designs
incorporate woodland creatures like crows
and foxes, with a unique twist, and the
sleek Vertebrae bracelet is a bold statement
piece. You can see new additions to this
range at IJL 2011 (stand C21).
www.chrishawkinsjewellery.com
Inspired by the gargoyles on the famous Notre Dame cathedral
in Paris, and named after Greek and Basque mythological
creatures, this recently-launched Glitterati collection seeks to
make a masculine statement. There is currently a choice of two
bangles and two pairs of cufflinks in blackened silver, which
after having been carved by hand in wax are hand-chased to
give a detailed finish.
Information: 07779 228 635 or www.glitterati.gb.com
Ruby & Al’s 50s-influenced
retro-petrolpunk jewellery for
guys is a unique collection of
hot-rod-inspired cuff bracelets,
rings, pendants and cufflinks for
men in sterling silver or bronze
with optional black diamond glitz.
With designs based on custom
cars, scallops and the sculptural
styling seen in the vehicles
conceived by such names as
Ettore and Jean Bugatti, Harley
Earl and Gordon Murray, Ruby
& Al 4 Guys achieves a masculine
collection appealing to men from
all walks of life.
www.ruby-and-al.com

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30
Men’s jewellery
A growing proportion of the male population
are wearing jewellery, and with style icons
like David Beckham sporting bracelets, beads
and diamonds, more men than ever are
buying their own accessories. “Trollbeads
are predominantly bought as gifts for men
from their family and friends, but we’re
definitely seeing an increase in the number
of men choosing to buy Trollbeads for
themselves,” says Sarah Morfoot, managing
director of Fable Trading Ltd, Trollbeads’
sole distributor in the UK and Ireland.
“Men tend to wear the beads differently
to women, often preferring a repetition of
styles on a Trollbeads leather necklace or
dark leather bracelet. Silver beads are the
preferred choice and a single silver bead
on leather is a current trend. Beads such
as Lucky Knot, Three Siblings, Mocha, and
Endless are all big favourites. Men also quite
often like to team the silver beads with glass
for a contrasting look, and mixed metals
and jewellery pieces that tell a story are
particularly popular,” she adds.
www.trollbeads.co.uk
Founded in 1786, Deakin & Francis designs and produces
fine quality handmade jewellery in its English workshops,
using precious metal and incorporating vitreous enamel and
fine gemstones. Owned and managed by James and Henry
Deakin, the manufacturing jewellers and silversmiths have
created over 1,000 cufflink designs for business people,
celebrities and members of royalty worldwide. The collections
are: the Businessman, the Gentleman, the Connoisseur, the
Enthusiast, the Eccentric, the Adventurer, and the Sportsman.
They include gold and silver cufflinks, through to full dress
sets in platinum and diamonds, and range from funky and
fun to classic.
Information: 0121 236 7751 or www.deakinandfrancis.co.uk
Flash Jordan has turned conventional cufflink design upside
down with its new ingeniously elegant range of ‘wraparound’
palladium and diamond cufflinks. Jeweller Neil Jordan says:
“Cufflinks are the most popular item of jewellery for men,
but the choices available are largely variations on the same
old design. We wanted to
rethink cufflink design
and offer men luxury and
style to reflect original
thinking.” Britton
Bespoke designs are all
handmade in England to
high standards.
or enquiries@flashjordan.co.uk
So Jewellery has added four new designs to its range of premium
silver cufflinks, combining a clean, modern style with a timeless
appeal. Each piece is made to high standards and is sealed with an
anti-tarnish finish to promote a high shine and to delay tarnishing.
Some designs are exclusively silver, while others are set with mother
of pearl or black onyx to add colour and depth. Presented in
the company’s trademark packaging – a pristine white box with
silver magnetic clasp – these silver cufflinks provide a great way to
accessorise an outfit with understated elegance.
Information: 0208 892 7000 or www.sojewellery.co.uk
at IJL
Visit us 15
1
Stand E
32
Comment
Give a dog a
bad name
With a recent Channel 4 documentary having been
criticised by many for delivering inaccurate information
about the gold industry, Michael Hoare comments
upon the complexities of maintaining a good reputation
R
ecently the papers have been full of stories of
footballers, bankers and politicians struggling to
repair damaged reputations; or, depending on your
view, using the law to gag those who would discuss
their peccadilloes in public. The so-called ‘super injunction’
is the favoured way that the wealthy hope to prevent
comment about their alleged dodgy deeds, and this has led
to public debate about two tier justice and unequal access to
the law when it comes to preventing the proliferation of illinformed speculation, rumour and downright lies.
I don’t condone the antics of so-called ‘celebrities’, nor do I
believe that access to the law should be determined by wealth,
but I do understand why someone would want to protect their
standing. As the clergyman Joseph Hall said: “A reputation
once broken may possibly be repaired, but the world will
always keep their eyes on the spot where the crack was.”
Once someone has made their mind up about you it can be
difficult to budge their prejudice. Their judgement becomes
selective, and the only information they retain tends to
support, and build upon, the picture resident in their heads.
And so it proved the other week, when the Channel Four
documentary The Real Price of Gold was used as a platform for
the views of businesswoman Deirdre Bounds. According to the
blurb, she “reveals what’s wrong with the industry and goes on
the road to present her unique take on how things could be
done very differently.” The clue is in the word ‘unique’.
Many in the trade reacted with anger, some with dismay,
and others with a shrug of resignation. Personally, I think
the programme raised some worthwhile points about the
issues the jewellery industry currently faces. It was also useful
for consumers to understand the complexities that jewellers
looking for ‘ethical’ supply chains are confronted with when
trying to establish traceability in a gold supply chain not
designed for transparency.
It is undeniable that the programme’s headline issues remain
a reality within the industry. However, the programme was, in
my opinion, shot through with inaccuracies, half truths, and
snap judgements that undermined their argument. When
caught in quicksand it’s difficult to know how much to struggle
for fear of slipping further into the slough, and so it is with
setting the record straight; but let’s just put some thoughts on
the table here anyway. After all, neither the National Association
When caught in quicksand it’s difficult
to know how much to struggle for fear
of slipping further into the slough
of Goldsmiths (NAG) or the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA)
were called upon to make comment, despite being the largest
representatives of the jewellery industry in the UK.
First, the programme was misleading in stating that there
was not enough recycled gold in circulation, when in fact
the majority of gold used in UK jewellery manufacture
is from recycled sources. Second, there are a number of
initiatives in development, including the World Gold Council
and RJC ‘chain of custody’ standards, that will provide
assurances that jewellers can pass on to customers about the
ethical credentials of their products; but these have fairly
long gestation periods. Meanwhile retailers’ demand for
such goods grows, as is amply demonstrated by last year’s
successful launch of Fairtrade Fairmined gold.
Last, the programme presented recycled gold as an
ethically or morally superior alternative to newly mined
gold. However, we can’t ignore the fact that newly mined
gold is critically important to countries such as Ghana, Mali
and Peru who benefit from the investment and tax revenues
generated. Artisanal miners’ lives depend on the sale of
the gold they mine and reducing the consumption of newly
mined gold only pushes these communities deeper into
poverty. It is inaccurate to assume that boycotting all newly
mined gold therefore presents a more ethical alternative.
Indeed, the introduction of certified gold and ‘best practice’
for both social and environmental standards demonstrates
the shift in the industry towards transparency, traceability
and social responsibility in mining. But achieving a fully
transparent system takes international effort, and both the
NAG and the BJA remain fully committed to driving this
forward for the British jewellery industry. Personally, I bitterly
resent the implication that jewellers simply don’t care, and
that nothing has been done to address the problems which we
know exist; the work of all the initiatives including the RJC
being glossed over and apparently dismissed out of hand.
But do my views or those of anyone else keen to see open
and factual debate count for anything? Can we as an industry
uphold public confidence in the face of criticism?
Some say that even acknowledging the mudslingers lends
them some sort of credibility. Personally I hold to Socrates,
the Greek philosopher’s dictum: “Regard your good name
as the richest jewel you can possibly be possessed of – for
credit is like fire; when once you have kindled it you may
easily preserve it, but if you once extinguish it, you will find it
an arduous task to rekindle it again. The way to gain a good
reputation is to endeavour to be what you desire to appear.”
The last line says it all!
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E79 at IJL
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Web: www.greenspark.co.uk
Telephone: +44(0)161 436 6600
Fax: +44(0)161 283 2621
Email: gems@greenspark.co.uk
36
IJL 2011 preview
In it to
win it
Louise Hoffman speaks
to Syreeta Tranfield,
event manager for
International Jewellery
London (IJL), to hear
about the highlights of
the upcoming 2011 show
Reflecting on the past year, what in your
opinion have been the main highs and lows
for the industry?
The highs have to include the launch
of Fairtrade Fairmined gold, which
is a significant step forward for the
industry; and the constant stream of
new designers and collections in a
challenging market – determination
and tenacity never fail to impress,
as well as originality of course.
Meanwhile, the high price of metal
continues to dominate the lows; not
only gold but also silver rocketing in
value is without doubt taking its toll
from miner to consumer.
Have these factors influenced your planning
of the 2011 event?
Of course – IJL is a reflection of
what’s happening in the industry.
Yes it’s tough out there but our
exhibitors are committed to making
the most of what the market has to
offer and are participating in the
show because it makes a difference to
their business; they are not going to
take orders hiding in their factories
and offices! We are working hard
to deliver a strong visitor audience,
ready to restock and place orders
for the autumn/winter period. In
addition, the complimentary seminars
offer advice, direction and insight to
enhance retailers’ businesses.
What delights to do have in store for
visitors this year?
The main delight has to be the revival
of the IJL Runway. Those who have
known IJL for years will remember
the Theatre of Jewellery – well, it’s
back, but this time the show floor is
the theatre and performances will
take place on the Boulevard and it’s
going to be fabulous! A showcase
of amazing jewellery in a new and
inspiring format. Of course all of IJL’s
unique features will also be available
to experience – the largest collection
of UK and international jewellery
suppliers at any UK event; Editors
Choice; Bright Young Gems; KickStart;
complimentary seminars and more.
Which key trends are you expecting to
see emerge?
Visitors come to IJL to see the latest
jewellery products, but they also
definitely come to find out what the
key trends are. At the show, top trend
forecasting agency Stylesight will be
holding a trend seminar (which is free
to attend) so that visitors can hear
about the latest trends, and there will
be other experts on hand as well as
trend-setting designers and brands. I
really recommend walking around the
show and networking, to get a feel of
the trends that are emerging – IJL is a
great forum to share knowledge. The
IJL Runway will also be a useful way to
see trends being bought to life.
In terms of trends I am looking
forward to, I think the vintage trend
is exciting, and some exhibitors are
mixing this with the pearl trend.
Rose gold also seems to be on-trend,
and Andrew Geoghegan has some
stunning rose gold cocktail rings
(pictured right). While small, delicate
jewellery will be another trend, large,
eye-catching necklaces and bracelets
are also set to be in demand – Hilary
Alexander identified this broader
fashion trend in the report she did
for IJL recently (read this on www.
jewellerylondon.com). Designers such
as Rachel Galley and Jianhui London
will reflect this trend, and Babette
Wasserman will showcase catwalkinspired neckpieces with large,
oversized crystals.
IJL 2011 preview
“Our favourite part of
IJL is opening morning
and the over whelming
feeling of anticipation
from both exhibitors and
organisers of IJL”
And will there be many new
brand launches?
There will be some exciting new
names at IJL this year, as well as brand
launches in the UK; Raymond Hak, the
award-winning American designer, is
one example – his silver and diamond
jewellery is very design-led and high
end. UK designer Alice Menter will
also exhibit for the first time at a large
trade event, showcasing best selling
pieces from her recent signature
collection alongside new designs, such
as a stunning new selection of drop
earrings and a capsule range of men’s
jewellery. High quality, good value
watches from Festina – already a major
brand all over the rest of Europe – will
be another of the many ‘firsts’. Vogue
Diamond will also be new to the show,
as well as Vendorafa – a dynamic Italian
brand with a rich heritage in jewellery
design – and this can be found on the
Advalorem stand.
IJL is seen by many leading
designers and brands as the prime
time to launch new collections. Alice
Gow Designs, for example, will
unveil the new jewellery collection
‘Twisted’, featuring twisted sections
of silver, highlighted by sweeps of
gold detailing. I’ve also just found out
that Daisy Knights will launch a new
range called ‘Wise’ – Daisy has already
become a very successful designer
following her launch as a Bright Young
Gem at IJL and her creations are fast
becoming the must have accessory, with
the likes of Rihanna, Alexa Chung,
Daisy Lowe and Kate Moss all being
advocates of the brand!
What are your thoughts on the current
state of the sector, in terms of the
economy etc, and how do you hope to help
drive success?
It’s tough out there without doubt.
Retailers looking for new stock to
refresh their window and entice
customers in will find what they are
looking for at IJL. For those who are
not sure what the right product is,
we’ve got experts including Hilary
Alexander to guide retailers to
the right product. We have trend
advisors delivering seminars to
explain what will be hot on the high
street and will influence what will sell
in the months ahead.
The wonderful thing about this
industry is that everyone is so
passionate about their products, crafts
or shops that this alone will drive
success – the sheer determination
to succeed. IJL will do its utmost to
facilitate that.
Do you have a favourite element of the
event? And why?
Our favourite part of IJL is opening
morning and the overwhelming
feeling of anticipation from both
exhibitors and organisers of IJL
about how the following four days
will unfold; the queues of retailers
outside the door, waiting to come in
and be inspired, place those orders
and catch up with old friends; and the
amazing exhibits, collections, displays
and people, ready to do business. It’s
a special moment just before those
doors open.
Any final words of motivation for those in
the trade?
You’ve got to be in it to win it! Those that
are exhibiting at IJL have something
special to offer. They are committed to
delivering good quality product and
service to their customer. Support them
and come and see them and others at
IJL this September – it really could make
a difference to your business.
37
38
IJL 2011 preview
¯¯
Inspired by the richness of
autumnal colours, Tezer Design has
introduced a new collection of goldplated jewellery, which comprises
necklaces, bracelets, pendants and
earrings in modern and contemporary
designs. Visit Tezer’s stand at IJL
to view this collection and more, or
contact UK sales agent Sharon Acton
using the phone number below.
Stand: G108
±±
Jules Jules will this year be
exhibiting at IJL for the first time.
“This is an exciting new show for us,
and we will be showing our glass and
ceramic jewellery,” comments Jules
Jules’s Juli Miller. “All our jewellery is
designed and handmade in the UK,
and we have some lovely designs that
are perfect for the autumn/winter
season, including Zebrano, shown here,
which is part of our glass range.”
www.julesjules.co.uk
Stand: B49
¯¯
Hazel Atkinson Jewellery says its
latest collection, ‘Natural Selection’,
has been highly successful, attracting
many new customers and generating
lots of repeat orders. “All colours have
sold well, with ‘Summer’ and ‘Crystal
Blue’ being particularly popular,” the
company says, “and for autumn and
winter, Hazel will be adding new cooler
blues and purples.” Hazel designs and
hand-prints each piece of ultra-light,
anodised aluminium jewellery, and
has a small team who assemble and
distribute each unique item from her
Nottingham studios.
www.hazelatkinsonjewellery.co.uk
¯¯
Thai Design Distributors
continues to deliver contemporary
and traditional jewellery in
silver, gold and assorted stones
for ladies, men and children.
As a manufacturer with 38 years
of experience in the jewellery
trade, the company supplies to
wholesalers, retailers and designers,
and says that quick delivery, superb
production quality and efficient
customer service ensure the stability
and growth of this family business.
info@thaidesignuk.com
Stand: E91
Stand: B55
±±
Amanda Cox will be exhibiting her ‘Oak Apple’ designs, inspired by the gall
wasp, at this year’s IJL. The Oak Apple collection includes pendants, rings and
earrings made with silver and 18-carat gold and set with diamonds and pearls.
Amanda will also be showing her ever-popular ‘Lily’ and ‘Rose’ collections,
alongside new creations in the making that will be unveiled at the show.
Information: 01422 842 446 or www.amandacoxjewellery.co.uk
Stand: C16
IJL 2011 preview
¯¯
¯¯
Hand-crafted in Switzerland, the Step by Step range is
created from high quality and rare metals, providing choice
for the discerning consumer. The collection’s necklaces, lariats,
bracelets and earrings are designed to provide a distinct
addition to any outfit. Featuring on the IJL stand will be the
rhodium and aluminium bracelets in silver, red and black, and
the rhodium and brushed aluminium red necklace.
Information: 01422 317 539 or www.stepbystep-uk.com
Stand: G48
Kali Ma Designs’ fun range of Ruby B. children’s
silver jewellery brings together pendant, stud earring
and bracelet sets with perfectly formed miniature
strawberries and spotty pastel hearts detailed in enamel.
For the disco divas there are charm and stud sets in a
glittering array of colours made using Austrian crystal,
including cherries, hearts, butterflies and ladybirds,
plus funky animals for the boys. The new ranges offer
collectable keepsakes, with each piece packed with its
own organza pouch and Ruby B. bag for safe-keeping.
Branded point of sale displays are also available.
Information: 01803 872 555, enquiries@kalimadesigns.com
or www.kalimadesigns.com
Stand: F30
®®
Majestic Jewellery is proud to announce the UK launch of
its award-winning diamond jewellery range at this year’s IJL.
Majestic’s jewellery – which has worldwide design patents and
won Best in Show at Las Vegas – features precision diamonds
cut to within 1/100mm and invisibly set under a microscope,
resulting in a seamless jewel with all the splendour of a single
large diamond. The Majestic collection offers a variety of
classic shapes, such as round, pear, marquis, oval, heart and
radiant, all set as rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets in
18-carat white gold.
Information: 01202 557 571 or office@majesticjewellery.net
Stand: I138

After a successful spring/summer 2011 that
has seen stars from stage, screen, music and sports
alike – including Justin Bieber, Nicole Scherzinger,
Lewis Hamilton and JLS – wearing its statement
bracelets, Tresor Paris will have its début showing at
IJL in September. The fashion jewellery brand will be
showcasing its autumn/winter 2012 collection, which
features bracelets with names inspired by French
towns, such as Grasse, Choisy, Cognac, and this year’s
statement piece: Tresor. All bracelets feature spherical
balls, set with a variety of crystals and precious and
semi-precious gemstones, finished off with a black
Tibetan cord.
Information: 0203 355 4030 or www.tresorparis.com
Stand: I49
39
40
IJL 2011 preview

The Stack Ring Co, by Silver
Willow, has recently added to two
of its existing rhodium-plated
92.5 sterling silver ranges, and
is also excited to be launching a
brand new collection of ninecarat gold stack rings. The Prima
range has been enhanced by a
new vintage collection of designs,
which contrast sparkling cubic
zirconia with pretty, intricate
surrounds influenced by the
galaxy; while the Freedom range
is transformed into ‘vintage
chic’, allowing the wearer to step
backwards into her chosen era via
the faceted CZ, enamel flowers
and love hearts and funky,
textured bands. The new gold
collection sees quirky textures
with polished, brushed and
matt finishes, complemented by
dazzling diamonds, glistening
rubies and sparkling sapphires.
Information: 01823 698 898,
info@stackringco.com or
www.silver-willow.com

The Silvery will
be exhibiting another
collection of simple,
wearable pieces made
using its special technique
for covering real natural
items in layers of pure
silver. With all pieces
handmade in the UK and
an attractive USP in that
each piece is a true one-off
as the original item is still
encased in the silver, the
company says high sales
and repeat customers
are assured. All items are
supplied boxed with POS
information. Be sure to
visit the company’s stand
for special offers that will
only be available on orders
placed at IJL.
or www.thesilvery.co.uk
Stand: B21
Stand: F49
®®
Apsara will be presenting a collection of unheated rubies from a variety of sources, including
Winza in Tanzania and northern Mozambique, available in one- and two-carat sizes. The sapphire
collection will include an assortment of colours, from Madagascan blues to untreated golden and
orange stones from the Bang Kacha deposits in eastern Thailand. Bang Kacha sapphires are
characterised by their clarity and superb lustre and brilliance. Complementing the rubies and
sapphires will be a display of spinels, mali garnets, spessartites, demantoids and many other coloured
gems. Goods may be viewed and ordered online.
Information: 01737 358 071, info@apsara.co.uk (Peter Grumitt) or www.apsara.co.uk
Stand: J29
The new Hanron Jewellery catalogue has finally arrived, and you can request your free

copy using the contact details below. Featuring one of the largest and most varied ranges in
the UK, Hanron says “innovative, fashionable and contemporary designs reflect the trends”
throughout its diverse range, which includes diamonds, gold and silver.
Information: 0207 831 6170 or sales@hanronjewellery.com
Stand: J40

Come and visit KM Jewellery to see the
full range of new It bracelets by Svane & Lührs.
A hand-sewn sheep’s leather bracelet finished
with a magnet lock in either sterling silver or
gold, It bracelets are available in over 30 colours
and can be tailor-made for individual sizes.
Charms available for the bracelet number 350,
and include clip-ons and tubes in silver and
gold-plated silver, sparkling precious stones,
feminine freshwater pearls and cubic zirconia.
KM Jewellery will also be showcasing its other
brands including Mancini, Bellezza Rings, Little
Angels and Tresor Paris.
sales@km-jewellery.com
Stand: F139
42
IJL 2011 preview
±±
The new Siena Collection from Chamilia features vibrant colours
and prints designed to enhance and complement any woman’s personal
style. From warm browns to deep russet reds, umbers and rich greens, the
collection’s colours are chosen to conjure images of the Tuscany region
and the home of Siena, Italy. With gold-coloured flecks, on-trend freelymoving components and brilliant Swarovski Elements crystals, Chamilia
says the Siena assortment – which is available in 14-carat rose and yellow
gold and sterling silver – will capture your customers’ imagination and
make “the perfect addition” to their Chamilia jewellery collection.
Information: 0844 811 2142 or chamiliauk@chamilia.com
Stand: F121/E121
®®
Goldmark has developed a
completely new manufacturing
technique for custom-shaped
wedding rings. This allows the
company to return customers’
engagement rings within two
days, knowing that the finished
wedding ring will be a perfect fit
every time. The designs of the
wedding rings are sent to retailers
by email, and, using their online
tools, can easily be forwarded to
customers for confirmation.
www.goldmarkuk.com
Stand: H129
±±
A designer jeweller whose work has been featured in a number of films,
with a client list that reads like a ‘who’s who’, Malcolm Morris has three
current collections that cover a wide range of styles. He has jewellery with
strong graphic looks in silver, oxidised silver – great for the autumn – and
an on-trend silver/gold mix.
Information: malcolm@malcolm-morris.com or www.malcolm-morris.com
Stand: D18
¯¯
Lucet Mundi launches onto the UK jewellery
scene this summer; a luminous jewellery brand
that combines aesthetics with mysticism, each
piece in the collection has its own story to tell,
with the owner “invited to interpret [it using]
his or her own imagination once it is fastened
firmly into place on the wrist.” To inaugurate
the brand, four signature collections are to
be launched – Lucky Amulets, Power Beads,
Chinese Zodiac and Stardust – each with “soul
as the key message.”
www.silverfantasies.co.uk
Stand: F140
Image: Richard Stroud
IJL 2011 preview
¯¯
Over a period of time, R E Morrish has acquired the Dearn &
Williams, Goldstar, Sheargold and Evermorn manufacturing businesses
and has incorporated its production within these brands of jewellery. R
E Morrish is exhibiting at IJL 2011, so if you would like to see the bestselling lines from all these companies, come along to the stand, where
Bob, Anne and Rachel Morrish will be happy to meet you.
Information: 0121 551 4020 or sales@remorrish.com
Stand: I80
¯¯
¯¯
Marcia of Marcia Lanyon Ltd has been busy hand-picking the wide
range of freshwater pearls, stones and beads that customers have come
to expect from the company’s IJL stand, along with big nugget pearls,
sparkling faceted beads and fancy-cut stones in accordance with upcoming
trends. From striking sapphires or chunky dyed howlite, to a calibrated
facet or a totally unique cabochon, Marcia Lanyon and her team are ready
to help. Visit the stand at IJL or book an appointment at the company’s
west London office.
Information: 0207 602 2446 or sales@marcialanyon.com
Stand: J51

Since 2008, Corona has manufactured all
its products in Canadian certified gold. It is
pleased to present its exciting new range of
diamond-set jewellery, created in all carats
of Canadian certified gold and platinum, at
IJL. Also available are its unique certified
diamond brands, Maple Leaf Diamonds and
I AM Canadian – diamonds that are traceable
to their Canadian origin.
cherry@coronajewellery.com or
www.coronajewellery.com
Stand: H31
®®
Come and see the new range of premium mounts from Treasure House
at IJL, as part of an extended range of high quality, affordable mounts that
will be on show. Most mounts are available in both nine-carat and 18-carat
white and yellow gold and platinum. Treasure House will also be showing
its diamond and wedding ring ranges and its increasingly popular Silver &
Co bead and charm collection.
Information: 0207 400 0000 or www.thgold.com
Stand: E79
The team at Hallmark Design &
Shopfitting have been designing and installing
attractive, functional shops for over 40 years.
As a design-led company conscious of its
joinery lasting the test of time, Hallmark says
it wants to ensure that its designs will achieve
the same. Following a personal consultation
with the customer, Hallmark will present
a scheme and a budget, completely free of
charge and without obligation. Together with
the customer, Hallmark will then refine the
scheme, agree a price and a programme and
carry out the installation, taking the project
from concept to completion.
info@hallmarkdesign.co.uk
Stand: I101
43
44
IJL 2011 preview
®®
Specialist brand Jo for Girls says it
has continued to have a very busy year,
following on from a successful Spring Fair
which saw the launch of its Forever Friends
collection, shortlisted for Gift of the Year
2011. The company has recently set up a
national sales force to continue this growth.
New to the range for the summer is the
Birthstone Angels collection, which includes
a card detailing the qualities believed to
be unique to those born that month, and
the colourful Tantalising Strawberry set of
pendant, earrings, and charms.
sales@perthshirejewellery.co.uk
Trollbeads will be celebrating its 35
¯¯
th
Stand: E159
anniversary at IJL, with its latest Universal
Uniques collection on display. These one-of-a-kind
Italian Murano glass beads feature a universalsized core, allowing them to fit all major charm
bracelet brands. An exciting new autumn collection
will be on show for the first time, together with
the very latest collection of Debut bracelets. In
addition, there will be a colourful array of handcrafted Murano glass beads, live lamp-working
demonstrations and a wide selection of beads
in silver, gold and precious stones alongside
Trollbeads’ earring hooks and accessories.
Information: 0117 377 4214 or www.trollbeads.co.uk
Stand: F90
¯¯
Reading-based Gift Time Products says its sales of alarm clocks
continue to thrive. It explains: “These faux leather travel alarm
clocks, available in black or brown, are excellent quality, and each
features a plate on top for engraving. The round version even has a
rotating time zone ring to see local times around the world.” A full
CD catalogue is available on request, or a price-free version can be
downloaded from the website. Trade price lists are sent on request.
Information: 0118 947 1405 or www.gift-time-products.co.uk
Stand: I140
¯¯
Marcus McCallum says he feels optimistic for
IJL 2011. Seeing an increase in interest in unusual
coloured stones, fancy cuts and the use of rough
and natural stones, he will be concentrating on both
these and higher-quality and unusual freshwater
pearls and beads. Also keep an eye out for his
newly-expanded website, which will have photos
and details of much of his stock and will be updated
regularly with new stones, pearls and beads.
Information: 0207 405 2169 or www.marcusmccallum.com
McCourt’s Jewellery has been supplying fine jewellery to the
wholesale industry since 1979, and is constantly moving forward to
keep up-to-date with different trends. McCourt’s says it is renowned
for the quality of its stones and special designs, and welcomes IJL
visitors to its stand where the team will be happy to help.
Information: 01670 788 989 or www.mccourtsjewellery.com
Stand: J31
Stand: H64
¯¯
46
IJL 2011 preview
Image courtesy of ArtCAM
customer Miriam Rowe
¯¯
At this year’s IJL, Delcam will demonstrate
its latest CNC software for the jewellery
industry: ArtCAM JewelSmith 2011. The
software is available in both 32- and 64-bit
formats, and enables jewellers to assemble
complete pieces of jewellery even faster, thanks
to its extended and enhanced component
libraries that give jewellers access to over
550 individual components. New models
include clusters, collets, tiffany-style shanks and
channel rings, among many others. Delcam
will also exhibit its Rapid Prototyping Bureau
Service and Delcam JewelSmith Designer.
Information: info@artcam.com or
www.artcamjewelsmith.com
®®
NOA says its jewellery is a
“magical union” between colourful
ceramics and cool metals, such as
sterling silver, brass and its new
aluminium frames. Its pendants,
necklaces, bracelets and earrings – all
of which are available as matching
sets – are small, with intricate ceramic
designs, and most are packaged
in specially-designed presentation
boxes. NOA’s whole manufacturing
process takes place in the UK, with
each piece hand-crafted and marked
with the NOA stamp. You may view
the latest collection and request a
download of NOA’s trade catalogue
via the website.
noa.jewellery@virgin.net or
www.noajewellery.com
Stand: C105
Stand: C160
¯¯
Unique Jewelry is a modern, design-led jewellery company
particularly known for its use of new materials like stainless steel,
titanium and tungsten, as in its successful men’s collection. Its new
men’s collection is created using braided leather in combination
with stainless steel elements and special clasps to create a masculine
and trendy look. Unique says the designs are “urban, young and
contemporary” and are crafted to high quality at affordable prices. For
further information, please contact Daniel Ozel.
Information: 0207 405 5523, daniel@uniquejewelry.co.uk or
www.uniquejewelry.co.uk
Stand: E115
Reading-based David
®®
Gecko is celebrating 20 years in the
jewellery business at IJL 2011. In that time
Gecko has been honoured with many awards,
twice winning Supplier of the Year, and it says
that “innovation, winning looks and price
awareness” are evident in the ranges launching
at IJL. Highlights at its stand include amethyst
cabochon drops and hummingbirds’ wings
in the Elements Gold range; “striking colour
from Swarovski crystals and sculptural looks”
in its Elements Silver collection; dramatic and
precious colour in silver and costume in the
Fiorelli range; and Basics – a new, price-beating
silver collection.
sales@geckojewellery.com
Peterson Clocks says it has had
a fantastic year. The company
states: “Rising prices and the
record gold price have had little
effect on a resurgent market,
where carriage clocks are once
again seen as the preferred gift
for long service and corporate
awards etc. Our after-sales
service is second to none, and
all clocks are fully tested before
dispatch.” A full CD catalogue is
available on request, or a pricefree version can be downloaded
from the website. Trade price
lists are sent on request.
www.dpclocks.co.uk
Stand: F31
Stand: I140
¯¯
Nature’s designs
encased in layers of pure silver
Unique pieces all hand made
in our Sussex workshop
Items supplied boxed
and with
Point of Sale card
RRP’s starting at
just
jus £19.99
We’ve got it covered
Please visit us at stand B21 at IJL
to take advantage of some brilliant oﬀers
www.thesilvery.co.uk
(01273) 472570
48
IJL 2011 preview
¯¯
At IJL, Vizati will be offering attractive and unusual stones set in
sterling silver. As mineral collectors, Vizati’s owners go to great efforts to
buy special stones, such as solid, rough Ethiopian opal; pietersite;
bi-colour tourmaline crystals; azurite with malachite; charoite; chrysocolla;
and pyritised ammonites. There will be a selection of pendants, earrings
and adjustable rings available to choose from on a first-come-first-served
basis, including the very popular White Satin range – which has been
expanded to include a number of contemporary new designs – and
5EXTRA; a new range of five-micron silver-plated jewellery.
Information: 01323 485 605 or www.vizati.com
Stand: D81

¯¯
www.neilsonphotography.com – exhibiting
at IJL for the first time this year – is an awardwinning jewellery photography studio that
offers product photography services for web
and print throughout the world. Meetings with
the company can be pre-booked online through
the IJL website, or simply visit the stand for a
chat to see high quality examples of its work
and the ways in which it can take brand imaging
to “the next level”.
www.neilsonphotography.com
Stand: C117
Since last year, Erfurt Design has
produced its own Ethiopian opals, and
has now introduced a line of unique
opal jewellery that can be set in silver,
in combination with 18-carat gold or
with a choice of loose stones. It will
also be unveiling a set of striking new
designs incorporating aquamarine,
kunzite, tanzanite, ruby and special
rutilated quartz.
Information: www.erfurt-design.de or
erfurt-design@t-online.de
Stand: D111
®®
Midhaven says its
range of stainless steel and
braided leather bracelets
for men and women
offers the opportunity
for a healthy margin and
a chance to brighten up
your displays with blacks,
reds, berries and chestnut
colours, at a price that
won’t break the bank.
or www.midhavensilver.com
Elran Ltd is showcasing two brand new
collections for autumn/winter 2011, including
Amaro, a fusion of genuine semi-precious stones
set into today’s popular silver and gold metal
colours; and Sea-Smadar, a collection of high
quality materials with an emphasis on leather,
Swarovski crystals and metals plated with
925 silver and 24-carat gold.
Information: 0208 208 4409 or www.elran.co.uk
Stand: F51
Stand: A89
¯¯
Get your silver sorted
SEE US
ON STAND
E79 at IJL
When you need up to the minute designs and a fast turn round on orders
45 Kirby Street, Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8TE
Tel: 020 7400 0000 Fax: 020 7400 0010
50
Designer
Dramatic licence
Tomasz Donocik draws upon great literature,
architecture, music and events of the past in
creating his powerful jewellery collections.
Louise Hoffman discovers more…
Your collections are many and varied, with a common theme of dramatic design.
Can you tell us more about the philosophies behind your work?
My designs draw inspiration from factual and fictional legends,
classical literature and architecture. I primarily view my designs as
timeless artistic objects, as opposed to adornment. I do not work under
the constraints of traditional jewellery design; I aim to challenge
preconceptions of self-adornment. Through the sensitive fusion of
materials my bold, masculine and often androgynous designs inject
the discipline with new meaning and form. I also strive to continuously
push the boundaries between fashion and jewellery by introducing new
materials such as leather and silk, and evolving existing practices in
addition to creating new techniques.
To date I have created four silver and fashion collections. There is
Four Elements, which re-contextualises classicism and mythology for the
discerning accessories wearer, and is a collection of exquisite cocktail
rings which centres around the symbolic creatures for the four elements:
earth, fire, water and air. A fine cocktail ring collection features phoenix
birds set with specitite garnet, yellow diamonds and rubies, and Snake
Medusa is encrusted with cognac diamonds and tourmaline. Meanwhile
Russian Aristocrat takes inspiration from Lemontov’s most famous novel
A Hero of our Time, and in particular its most romantic hero Pechorin. It
is an androgynous collection of jewellery for men to wear (and girlfriends
to steal), utilising luxurious, traditional materials as seen in the iconic
‘Chesterfield cuffs’ made from leather quilting, met with more avantgarde elements such as the Siberian horse hair pendants. Rising Star is
a salute to the Soviet era via its distinguished military uniform and the
platonic architecture of post-Soviet Russia. The direct iconography of
the star in sterling silver is featured, as is the use of bronze, which was
typically used for creating Soviet statues. Finally Guns ‘n’ Roses pays
Designer
“I strive to continuously push the boundaries
between fashion and jewellery by introducing
new materials and evolving existing practices
in addition to creating new techniques”
homage to the 1980s original American hard rock band, which brought
forth a hedonistic rebelliousness and revived the punk-attitude-driven
hard rock scene. Intricate pistol pendants form the basis for this collection
in silver, gold plated and black gold plated pieces. Forthcoming pieces will
play on the romanticism of the rose as delicate intertwined flowers create
a stark contrast to the pistols. All can be viewed at www.tomaszdonocik.com
How did you develop your style and ideas?
I originally studied fine art, painting, sculpting, installations and
photography. I considered myself an artist/designer and did not plan
to pursue a career in jewellery; this evolved naturally and I went on to
complete a BA Hons in Jewellery Designing at Central Saint Martins,
followed by a Master of Arts in Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork
and Jewellery at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in 2006. Immediately
after leaving RCA I was entered into the New Designers exhibition, where
I was awarded ‘Best Designer’ and also attracted the attention of Stephen
Webster, who appointed me to join his esteemed design team.
While working for Stephen Webster, I was responsible for designing
a men’s collection called ‘Burning Rocks’ for De Beers, and later the
‘Hunter’ collection for Garrard, which Stephen Webster is also creative
director for. This gave me a great foundation to enable me to launch my
own brand, and I have not looked back since.
In terms of influences, I love cultural days out for inspiration, from
intricate cathedrals to grand museums. Growing up in Austria I was
surrounded by architecture and there were plenty of family days out
visiting amazing exhibitions. History is another of my passions; whether
factual or mythical, to me there is deeper meaning behind my pieces
when I draw from events of the past, and they are so much more
interesting to design.
Role models include Jean-Michel Basquiat; an American graffiti artist
in New York City in the late 1970s/early 80s who was known for his Neoexpressionist style, portraying recognisable objects in often abstract
manners using vivid colours and colour harmonies. Another would be
Antoni Tàpies – one of the most famous European artists of his generation
who was perhaps the best Catalan artist to emerge in the period since
the second world war. In the jewellery arena I personally admire Stephen
Webster and Sevan Bicakci, who both produce amazing work.
Which collection or piece are you most proud of and why?
My debut fine womenswear jewellery collection, ‘The Garden of Good
& Evil’. This is a concise collection designed to be commercial within
the luxury market, incorporating entry level and high-end pieces. Of
course this is far from a mainstream collection but it has been accurately
designed and executed to sit accordingly in the marketplace. I am also
very proud of my first fine couture piece entitled ‘The Courtship of the
Hornbill’; a ring born in the summer of 2010 through a collaboration
with the Eco Art Foundation. The piece is made from mammoth tusk
and white, yellow and black diamonds, and demonstrates my intrepid
approach to design and uncompromising quality. This piece was
auctioned in Sotheby’s Abu Dhabi in November 2010 for $48,000 (the
highest selling item). I have recently completed my second commission,
creating a variation on the original piece.
Which materials do you most enjoy working with?
Contradictory materials; mixing soft to hard and rough to polished,
for example. I also have a fondness for leather with gold and silver and
stone accents, which is apparent in my collections. I am initially drawn
to materials to begin my creations. I use unconventional methods in my
approach, also.

51
52
Designer
Can you tell us about your most recent collection?
Inspired by the paradox of the natural world, ‘The Garden of
Good & Evil’ fuses the sinister side of beauty with the evident.
Thirty-one pieces complete the intricate collection, with fierce
tsavorite Venus Flytraps capturing delicate, diamond-coated
snowbells. The collection comprises pendants, earrings, rings
and bracelets with wholesale prices starting from £450, and
it will officially launch in the prestigious Garrard London
flagship store early Autumn 2011.
“History is another of my passions;
whether factual or mythical, to me there
is deeper meaning behind my pieces
when I draw from events of the past”
Which factors should designers consider when creating jewellery
for today’s consumer?
Create a wholesome brand which has some diversity so
consumers can buy into different categories and price points;
understand and be well versed on the ethical side of your
materials, and be aware of different issues in the industry;
and ensure you have supporting material such as a synopsis
on your collection and look books – professional imagery is
also essential.
Do you have plans in the pipeline for your next collection?
The fine jewellery launches later this year and in the
meantime I have begun working on a women’s silver/fashion
collection. I will also continue to make one-off pieces in
addition to expanding on current collections and exploring
collaboration opportunities.
Finally, how do you intend to develop your brand over the next
few years?
I have different agents across the world from Japan and the
USA to the UK, and these are working in harmony with PR
in their country so we can successfully sustain and increase
awareness of the brand on a global scale. I will also enter in
to industry awards, as these accolades make a big difference
with awareness and gaining a reputation both in the industry
and with consumers. It is also paramount that I continue to
customise my collections for various markets to ensure we are
offering appropriate products to each country.
Contact the
National Association of Goldsmiths on:
Email:
Tel:
Web:
NAG 190mm x 94mm ad .indd 1
nag@jewellers-online.org
020 7613 4445
www.jewellers-online.org
06/07/2011 22:26
Advertisement feature
53
54
Interview
Success stories
Despite the troubled economy, Aurum Holdings reported
one of its most successful trading years to date for 2010.
Louise Hoffman catches up with diamond buyer Emma
Boat for a quick chat about the group’s recipe for success
At the Birmingham Assay Office Trade Review back in January, one
could not fail to notice the rather buoyant festive sales figures
achieved by Goldsmiths. Congratulations on this success! And can
you tell us more?
Aurum Holdings’ portfolio, which includes Mappin & Webb,
Watches of Switzerland and Goldsmiths, achieved record
sales of £326 million in the year ending 30 January 2011,
and a corresponding EBITDA (earnings before interest,
taxes, depreciation and amortisation) of £16.1 million on
the back of a 16.6 per cent like-for-like performance. As
recently reported, the group has been put up for sale by its
shareholders following one of the most successful years of
trading in its history.
When the results were announced, group chairman Don
McCarthy commented: “Aurum has been one of the few
success stories on the British high street over recent years.
Since the restructuring of the group in 2009, the business
has delivered well beyond our expectations in terms of both
revenue and profit growth. [The] team have significantly
outperformed the first two years of our investment plan
and we have therefore decided to look for a new investor
that is able to assist this team in capitalising on the
“Aurum has been one of the few
success stories on the British
high street over recent years”
very significant and credible opportunities that are now
presenting themselves.”
This outstanding trading performance was particularly
impressive in light of the extreme weather conditions that
battered UK retailers over the 2010 Christmas period. As
CEO Justin Stead commented, “it is very pleasing to see
that our well-documented strategy is starting to deliver
significant returns. Our vision for the future suggests that we
are at the very beginning of an exciting period in the group’s
history. We have enjoyed great support from our existing
shareholders, but recognise that their investment horizon
was always going to be limited. We are now looking forward
to working with a new shareholder that can support us in
realising our serious ambitions and outstanding potential for
the Aurum business in the years to come.”
As diamond buyer, what were your personal contributions to this
sales drive?
I am heavily involved at concept and development stage
of product design and look for exclusive opportunities.
I undertake research to understand what the customer
wants and how Goldsmiths can best serve this. 2010’s
key achievements include the launch of two new ranges –
both exclusive and unique. The strong product offering
in these two ranges gives us differentiation and a
significant opportunity, with sales performance having
exceeded expectations.
What are the most essential qualities in a successful
jewellery buyer?
Being adaptable to change and having a keen eye for the
smallest of details.
How are you catering to the economic climate?
We are constantly looking to provide our customers with
great value, excellent quality and variety, so I will be looking
for exclusive opportunities to offer an enhanced choice to
our customers.
Are consumers changing their habits in terms of choosing wedding
and engagement rings?
Consumer habits are constantly changing with the evolution
of design and technology. Customers are also looking for
pieces that make them feel great, and we at Goldsmiths hope
to be able to make their milestones as special as possible.
Do you have any particular consumer trend predictions for the
rest of 2011?
2011 has and will continue to bring with it a return to
the classics.
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28/2/11
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info@bijouboxes.co.uk
11:
Pearly whites
56
1
1
1
2
Focus
on
pearls
Renowned for its elegance and glamour, pearl
jewellery continues to exude a timeless charm. Jon
Chapple examines some of the latest collections
available to stock for the autumn/winter season
I
n keeping with the on-going trend
for all things classic and timeless,
retro-inspired pearl jewellery is
currently experiencing something
of a renaissance. Long the preserve of
the upper echelons of society – first for
royalty and the aristocracy, and later
for icons of the stage and screen – pearl
jewellery has become so accessible and
affordable thanks to the availability of
cultured and imitation pearls, that the
market has widened considerably.
However, this isn’t to say that
modern pearl jewellery has lost any of
the elegance or gravitas traditionally
associated with what Federico
Fellini described as “the oyster’s
autobiography”. Royals, celebrities and
other public figures continue to adorn
themselves in pearls, keenly aware
of the popular conception of pearl
jewellery as an icon of understated
class and glamour. Moreover, the latest
round of new pearl collections remain a
perfect complement to the current ontrend, demure, vintage-style clothing;
meaning pearls are set to be a key trend
throughout autumn/winter 2011.
Coleman Douglas Pearls, the pearl
jewellery brand created by designer
Chrissie Douglas, says that its new
Madame Butterfly range – inspired
by the 1930s film of the same name –
brings together “vintage and romance
with a delicate collection of diamonds,
pearls and brazilianite.” Designed with
the “essence of a Japanese garden”
in mind, the light reflected from
the transparent green, pastel pink
and purple stones is “reminiscent
of shimmering water in a Japanese
garden,” and the company states
that the combination of diamonds
with brazilianite – a rare and unusual
transparent gemstone – “exudes vintage
glamour and understated elegance.”
“Pearls are a symbol of elegance
and style,” explains Coleman Douglas
Pearls, “as they light up the wearer’s
face. The vintage feel of this collection
sits perfectly in the favoured jewels
of the Hollywood stars of this time,
who made the most of the enhancing
qualities of pearls… knowing they were
rendered automatically elegant, stylish
and beautiful by wearing them.”
The Fiorelli Silver range by Gecko is
this season offering retailers a selection
of new pearl jewellery inspired by
“the delicate shapes in nature”. The
Leaf collection, which features subtle,
intricate cut-out detailing, perfect for
Pearly whites
2
3
3
everyday wear, sees a lustrous purple
freshwater pearl hanging in the heart
of each rhodium-plated silver piece;
while the Cherry Blossom collection,
designed for the “romantic moods of
the wedding season,” features softlycurved petals, crafted from rhodiumplated silver, and a white freshwater
pearl centre detail on each pendant
and earring.
And pearls are not only suited to
women’s fashion needs, as Nexus
Pearls has proved. Sitting neatly
alongside its traditional fine ranges
are high-quality silver- and rhodiumplated cufflinks featuring inlaid South
Sea and Tahitian mother of pearl.
These cufflinks are aimed at gift
buyers seeking a quality gentlemen’s
gift – perhaps for a pearl anniversary
– at a reasonable price. “In difficult
trading conditions, we believe it
is important to maintain a quality
offering at a price that the public can
afford and the trade can profit from,”
the company says.
1) Coleman Douglas Pearls: 0207 373 3369
2) Gecko Jewellery: 01376 532 000
3) Nexus Pearls: 0121 554 9999
57
Designed by Purists.
Fashioned by the Swiss.
Exclusively hand-crafted,
contemporary
jewellery Collection.
See us at I JL
Stand G48
www.stepbystep-uk.com
01422 317540
Step by Step - Jewellery Focus
93mm x 130mm
60
How do they do that?
Pearl treatments
Anu Manchanda, senior gemmologist for
AnchorCert, explains how some of the most
popular pearl enhancements – applicable
to pearls created by a natural process – are
carried out and subsequently detected
P
earls have been sought-after for centuries
due to their beautiful natural lustre. The
process by which a mollusc creates a pearl
is a natural phenomenon and even though
the majority of pearls on the market in the
21st century are ‘cultured pearls’ and have been
the subject of some human intervention, their
creation still depends upon a natural process.
Pearls are formed in molluscs, living in both
saltwater and freshwater. They occur when the
mollusc is invaded by a foreign substance such
as a small piece of grit washed in by the sea. At
this point the mollusc will immediately start to
build natural defences to protect its nucleus by
way of adding layers of nacre, creating a pearl
as we know it.
As with all natural products, the colour and
lustre of pearls varies widely and there are many
ways to enhance and improve them in order to
increase their value on the market. The idea of
treating pearls is centuries old and the writings
of Pliny from 2000 years ago have reference to
some of the treatments still used today.
Pearls created by the natural process are
organic gem material and come out of the
oyster requiring no cutting and polishing apart
from cleaning. The pearls are usually washed
or soaked in mild hydrogen peroxide to clean
or bleach them as required. Most freshwater
pearls undergo such a process before coming to
market, and this is accepted by the industry as a
routine practice. Other accepted treatments are
buffing with beeswax or polishers to improve
the lustre or remove minor surface scratches.
The process must be done without chemical
intervention as this can affect the nacre.
Pearls can be enhanced by other methods too,
but these treatments must be disclosed to the
buyer at all stages of the supply chain as the fact
that the pearl has been treated will make it less
valuable than an apparently equivalent pearl
in its natural state. There are five main ways in
which a pearl can be treated and each has its
own tell tale signs that a gemmologist will look
for when assessing a pearl.
How do they do that?
Staining and dyeing
Pearls may be overtly stained to create a colour
that would never appear naturally. For example,
they may be stained grey or black by soaking
them in a solution of mild silver nitrate and
ammonia and then exposing them to light.
When the silver nitrate comes into contact with
light it decomposes and deposits a sub-surface
layer of metallic silver.
Other organic and inorganic dyes can be used
to impart different colours to the pearls which
do not deliver such an obviously unnatural
colour. The dyes usually stain the nacre of
the pearls. This treatment can be carried out
on natural and cultured pearls. Pearl farmers
regularly give a rosé overtone to akoya pearls by
a process called ‘pinking’.
Jewellers and gemmologists assessing
a pearl for treatment can identify a dyed
pearl by looking down a drill hole to see the
concentration of colour near the surface or the
concentration of dye in the cracks. Sometimes
the pearls are dyed on the strand and the
strand may also take the colour of the dye.
Further assessment needs more
sophisticated equipment. The silver on
a stained pearl will show up under an
X-radiograph as a pale ring between the
nacre and the bead nucleus. The presence
of silver can also be picked up by testing the
pearl using X-ray fluorescence test. Dyed
pearls also react in a different manner to UVfluorescence than a natural coloured pearl;
they are inert or dull green to UV while the
natural pearls can fluoresce from bright red
to dull reddish brown. Dye can also be picked
up by infrared photo test, fibre optic test and
high magnification.
Irradiation
Gamma ray irradiation is another method
used to colour pearls. The gamma ray usually
imparts colour to the nucleus of a saltwater
pearl instead of colouring the nacre, whereas in
a freshwater pearl the gamma ray will make the
nacre very dark and may also give it a metallic
and even iridescent sheen. An experienced
gemmologist will recognise the darkened
nucleus in a beaded cultured pearl, which can
be seen from the drill hole, as an indication of
irradiation due to gamma rays.
For both dyed and irradiated pearls the
matching colour in the strand can be a very
good indication of treatment. If the colour is
natural there may be a very slight variation
from pearl to pearl, but in a treated strand the
colour may be suspiciously uniform and perfect.
Focus on the expert
Anu Manchanda
MSc, GG, DGA, FGA, P J Dip,
FNAG Pearl Graduate (GIA)
Coating
Pearls can be coated to enhance their lustre. A
clear lustrous coating is applied to the pearl,
which improves it temporarily, but with time
and use the coating may peel off showing the
inferior lustre underneath. The coating can
be detected by the feel or where the coating
has peeled off. Under high magnification the
coated surface will look very smooth in contrast
to the natural, scaly look of the nacre.
Filling
Natural pearls can be filled with epoxy or
other foreign material to either make them of
the weight expected for their size or to make
them more solid and durable if there is a gap
between the nucleus and the nacre in a beaded
cultured pearl. The treatment can be detected
by X-radiographs.
Doctoring
Historically, natural pearls have also been
improved by peeling off any stained, dull or
damaged layers of nacre. This is an exceptionally
skilful process requiring experience and
expertise, as otherwise one peeling can lead to
another until no pearl is left.
The wide variety of treatments available has
brought attractive, affordable pearls to every
level of the market. What is important for
the continued popularity of pearls, and the
integrity of the jewellery industry, is that such
treatments are disclosed and reflected in the
price of the pearl. Just as with a precious metal
alloy, it is not always immediately apparent
whether a gemstone is what it purports to
be. As treatments become more sophisticated
and identification more difficult there is an
ever-increasing need for transparency in the
trade and independent assessment using
sophisticated technology.
Anu Manchanda holds a
Masters degree (MSc)
in Geology from India; an
FGA, DGA from the School
of Jewellery, Birmingham;
and the Professional
Jewellers’ Diploma (PJ
Dip) with distinction from
the National Association
of Goldsmiths. She
is also a Fellow of the
National Association of
Goldsmiths (FNAG) and
a Pearl Graduate of the
Gemological Institute of
America. She is recipient
of the Christie’s Prize
for Gemmology (2004).
This is a trade prize
awarded to the best
candidate of the year
who derives his or her
income from activities
essentially connected
with the jewellery trade.
Anu tutors for the
Gemmological Association
of Great Britain’s
Correspondence course
students for both the
Diamond Diploma and
Gemmology Diploma
courses (DGA & FGA).
As an AnchorCert senior
gemmologist, Anu is
responsible for accuracy
and for new initiatives in
the diamond grading and
gem testing laboratory.
The Birmingham Assay
Office was founded
in 1773 to provide a
hallmarking facility to
the rapidly expanding
local silver trade. Over
235 years it has become
established as the largest
UK assay office. During
the past decade the
Assay Office has expanded
its services further, far
beyond its statutory
assaying and hallmarking
duties, and offers
independent expert opinion
on every aspect of the
precious metal, jewellery
and gemstone trade. For
more information visit
61
62
TAKING STOCK
¯¯
Baird & Co has reported that its patterned bands are
proving hugely popular at the moment. With the newest
additions to the Bianco range (which have increased the
collection by 50 per cent) there are more style options than ever
before. Some of the designs are diamond-set, with many styles
perfect for both women and men. Complementing Baird &
Co’s already vast variety of rings is the Renoir collection, which
benefits from multi-coloured, diamond-set, Celtic and shaped
designs, among others. These can all be seen in the new, free
catalogue, available now. Please call for details and sample sets.
Information: 0207 474 7444, team@goldline.co.uk,
www.bianco-rings.com or www.goldline.co.uk
Takin
Taking
stock
PP Manufacturing, the proud owner of a new workshop,
¯¯
is able to offer a whole range of technological services to
the trade. PP Manufacturing says it was the first company to
operate a Gemvision Revo mill in London and one of the first
to operate a Revo mill and Solidscape wax printer; and fullycomputerised engraving allows it to carry out a whole range of
different jobs, including laser-welding and CAD/CAM. “Having
such a technologically-advanced workshop allows us to take
on almost any job, from a single stone ring, right through to a
three-dimensional skull or animal,” the company adds.
Information: 0207 404 3331 or www.ppmanufacturing.co.uk
¯¯
Designer silver brand Gemma J will be showcasing
its best-selling Pebble Charm collection at Top Drawer
in September (stand H66). Following the trend for
collectable jewellery, the Silver Pebble range consists of
numerous tactile solid silver charms worn on a range of
pebble-compatible silver jewellery. With designs ranging
from pebble birthstones, initial-inscribed pebbles,
personalised pebbles and commemorative motif pebbles,
there is a pebble to suit everybody.
Information: 0845 234 0576 or info@gemmaj.co.uk
¯¯
Retail management software provider Retail IT –
whose current customers include Carolina Bucci, Theo
Fennell, Garrard and Westwood Rocks – has launched
a major new drive with jewellery retailers. Its all-new
Yourcegid retail software runs live in real time (meaning
there’s no polling; a low cost of ownership; and up-tothe-second accurate stock and reporting information)
and allows retailers to track key jewellery-specific details
like assay numbers, metals, carats and materials in items.
This solution is being used in Swatch, Royal Quartz, Jon
Richards and Sephora stores around the globe.
Information: 0208 605 9768 or www.retailit.com
64
Selling
Stop those leaks!
Why do salespeople avoid turning
over a sale when they are struggling?
And how can you rectify the situation?
Leonard Zell has the answers
M
ost storeowners have no idea how
many sales leak out of their stores.
When salespeople are in trouble they
keep it to themselves and jewellers
wonder why they do not turn over the sale –
or ‘TO’ for short – to them or their manager.
Throughout my 30 years of sales training these
are the reasons salespeople have given for their
avoidance of the TO:
1.Nobody actually told me how to TO, they just
told me to do it.
2.I don’t know exactly when I should do it. I
am just given ambiguous instructions that I
should do it whenever I get in trouble.
3.Why should I TO the sale if I don’t get credit
for it, or at least half the credit? I don’t care
if we don’t have commission. The owner still
knows how many sales I closed.
4.The only way I have been taught to TO is to
demean myself. I always have to introduce the
other salesperson as having more knowledge
than I do. For instance, he is the ‘buyer’;
the ‘gemmologist’; ‘knows more than I do’;
or ‘the expert’. What does that make me?
Whenever the customer comes back, why
should he then ask for me?
And here are the reasons jewellers avoid
teaching the TO:
1.I haven’t got time. It takes all morning to set
up the store, and then people disappear to
have their coffee.
2.Not everyone is there on the same morning,
so I have to repeat it all over again.
3.What good can it do? I haven’t got the time to
police it; I’m busy doing other things.
4.I have tried it before, and now my salespeople
TO too much. They are just too lazy and want
me to finish all the sales for them. They don’t
even try to close them. Why teach them the
TO again and make it worse?
You should know right now that i f y o u o r
your manager are off the sales fl o o r, y o u r
salespeop le will not TO to you b e c a u s e
you are not conveniently avai l a b l e
Well, there it is. Almost every jeweller can relate
to at least one of these reasons. For the first
time, you can see why your salespeople have not
given you a chance to save sales. Just think how
much money you let walk out the door – it’s
depressing! However, there is an answer…
Introduce morning meetings for at least
45 minutes with you and your manager. Roleplay the TO with each of your salespeople. This
will take time and several meetings before it
sounds natural and you begin using it with your
customers. The result is that you will have such
a smooth TO that your customer will never be
aware of it.
Adhere to these rules and the following
dialogue for a successful TO: You (the owner or
manager) must always be on the sales floor near
salespeople you think may need help. This gives
them added security knowing you’re nearby
to bail them out of trouble and also makes it
easier for them to call you in. You should know
right now that if you or your manager are off
the sales floor, your salespeople will not TO to
you because you are not conveniently available.
Sales will leak out of your store.
The salesperson should say something like:
“Mr Smith always comes up with good ideas. I
would like to have him share them with you.”
You see? The salesperson did not demean him
or herself by saying: “Mr Smith is a little more
familiar with this than I am.” So ‘idea’ is a good
keyword to remember.
If the customer asks a question – perhaps
a technical question the salesperson does not
know the answer to – he or she should say: “Let
me ask Kathy Jones. I know she’ll have the
answer.” It’s all about leaving negatives out of
the conversation – avoid saying: “I don’t know”.
Why brag about your lack of knowledge?
The next part is important, because that
is where the introduction comes in. If your
salesperson does not know the customer’s
name (even though he or she should), the
other salesperson should be given the chance
to introduce his or herself. Unfortunately,
this seldom happens; the salesperson who
is in trouble panics and brings the other
Selling
salesperson in with one long sentence, then
hurries away. The customer isn’t fooled
and wonders why you ever hired such an
inexperienced salesperson.
Here is how the conversation should go:
Salesperson (Mary Smith): “Let me
bring in Kathy Jones. She always has some
good ideas.” [Mary pauses to get customer’s
acceptance, which could be just a nod.] “This
is Kathy Jones.” [Mary must be quiet here
so Kathy can introduce herself and get the
customer’s name. If Mary doesn’t pause, she is
putting Kathy at a disadvantage.]
Kathy: “I’m Kathy Jones.” [Kathy pauses and
holds her gaze into the customer’s eyes, which
makes the customer want to identify herself.]
Customer: “I’m Linda Johnson.”
Mary: “Kathy, I showed Mrs Johnson these
two rings over here and these two over here.
She wants something with a lighter look. I
know you always come up with some good
ideas.” [It’s mandatory that Kathy be brought
up-to-date; otherwise she could look foolish by
either contradicting Mary or showing the same
merchandise again.]
Kathy: “Thank you, Mary.”
[Kathy pauses so that Mary may excuse herself.]
Mary: “Mrs Johnson, I’m going to let Kathy
continue, and I’ll be nearby.”
Kathy: “Thank you, Mary. Mrs Johnson,
there is a ring I want to show you…”
Mary excused herself in a professional
manner and did not demean herself by
wimping out like many salespeople do. She
even made herself important by saying: “I’ll
be nearby.” This implies: “I’ll be nearby if you
need me.”
Now, instead of Mary panicking and running
away, she picks up a polishing cloth and goes to
a nearby showcase just close enough to hear the
conversation and starts cleaning jewellery. This
is one of the best ways for her to learn selling,
and besides, she told the customer she would
be nearby. The only time she cannot be there is
when she has to wait on another customer. By
being close by, Kathy can also say: “Oh, Mary
– Mrs Johnson likes this ring. Can you take her
ring size and take care of it for her?”
This enables Kathy to turn the sale back
to Mary in a very smooth manner. No one
will be embarrassed and the best part is, you
saved a sale.
You will see the TO explained in further detail in Leonard’s 180 page sales manual on proven jewellery
selling techniques, and for the perfect complement, order
– a full day’s sales training
seminar recorded live on three CDs (available from
). Leonard Zell has been training
fine jewellers throughout the world for 25 years. He will be conducting sales seminars in the UK for
jewellers this autumn. To find more about his sales training seminars go to his website,
;
email
; or call Leonard in the US on 001 503 412 9521 after 4pm UK time.
65
Pr
io
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68
Gift card schemes
Fantastic
plastic
Chris Davies, managing director of HSBC
Merchant Services, explains how to increase
your profits through additional customer spend
which is redeemable only in your outlet or
shop, enabling you to take advantage of typical
additional customer spend of up to 40 per
cent more than the value of the gift card (Card
Commerce 2011).
Bespoke to business
W
hat is one of the greatest gifts you can
give your business? Simply allowing
customers to give their loved ones
the gifts they really want.
Trends in consumer spending and payment
preferences are changing, and the UK’s gift
card and voucher market has experienced its
highest ever year-on-year increase in sales,
according to statistics released earlier this year
from the UK Gift Card & Voucher Association
(UKGCVA) (2011).
But despite being simple and effective
to set up, many jewellery retailers have not
participated in this valuable way to build loyalty
and grow their business.
The gift that keeps on giving
The concept of gift cards is simple, attractive
and, most importantly, effective. A card is
uploaded with a specific amount of ‘cash’,
As well as increasing your brand visibility,
customer spend and profitability, gift cards are
programmed so that they are unique to your
company. This means that not only are they a
great way to raise awareness of your services to
a wider audience, but customers are essentially
‘locked in’ to your business as they use the card
solely on products associated with your brand.
They can be personalised with your company
name, unique design and logo on the front,
so brand recognition is reinforced each time a
customer sees your cards.
Moreover, your brand profile can be raised at
every touch point, from the display of your gift
cards within your shop/outlet, to the circulation
of cards as gifts – also potentially drawing in
new business. When the cards are redeemed
by the recipients, it is likely that they will also
spend some of their own money on a service or
product, resulting in valuable additional sales in
your outlet.
Gift card schemes
Embracing a gift card scheme
could well give your business
a much-needed boost in
the cur rent challenging
economic climate
Reap the rewards
To date, the use of gift card schemes has largely
been confined to leading high street retailers
and jewellery stores – but it does not have to be.
Increasingly popular are bespoke themed cards
designed to tie in with special occasions such as
birthdays or weddings. Customers are able to
purchase cards and load them with a monetary
gift and personalised message tailored to the
event. These types of cards are appropriate for
jewellery stores of all types.
Gift card schemes have also proven useful
to retailers who have found themselves at the
forefront of any slump in trading following the
festive season, as this is the period when gift
cards received as Christmas presents tend to
be redeemed.
Most importantly, independent and smaller
businesses shouldn’t be daunted by the thought
of setting up a card scheme, many of which are
available in batches, sized depending on your
demand or size of business.
The average time between buying a gift and
spending it is around 50 days, according to the
UK Cards Association. This is significant for
retailers as, essentially, they can increase their
cash flow and benefit from the sale of cards
without immediately having to exchange them
for an item or product.
Electronic gift cards – benefits over paperbased solutions
So what are the advantages of trading in
your existing paper voucher scheme for an
electronic system? Quite simply, electronic gift
card schemes have the added advantage of
helping to protect your business against fraud
or theft. While paper vouchers can easily be
stolen or imitated, gift cards hold no monetary
value until they are ‘activated’ with an amount
of ‘cash’ upon purchase. This means you can
display them in the most prominent position
within your store, without having to worry about
security issues. There is also no need to spend
money on creating security measures for your
paper vouchers, such as identifiable holograms.
Gift cards are ready programmed so that they
can only be redeemed in your outlet.
Simplifying setup
Gift card schemes are extremely cost-effective
and easy to set up. A gift card provider, such as
Card Commerce, our provider, can develop and
provide bespoke programmes for retailers. This
is then underpinned by the merchant acquirer
of choice, for example HSBC Merchant Services,
which can provide support relating to all the
necessary equipment required to maintain your
card scheme, including card processing terminals
or additional software for your existing terminal
operation. A price is based on the volume of
gift cards ordered, and with the minimum
order being just 100 cards this presents a great
opportunity for smaller or independent outlets
to take advantage and grow their business.
Expert advice is still essential on how to
set up your service. From card design to
display options, sales, staff training and the
technicalities of how the process will work, there
are support services available to ensure your
business gets the best from your scheme.
Embrace the business boost
To summarise, not only are gift card schemes
excellent marketing tools for both small and
larger businesses, they are a fantastic way for
retailers to extend the shopping experience for
their customers. Technological advancement is
paving the way for new methods of purchasing,
and embracing a gift card scheme could well
give your business a much-needed boost in the
current challenging economic climate.
Top tips on setting up a gift card scheme
1.Look closely at the financial benefits to your business, by working
out the additional revenue that could be made from the incremental
spend (according to the UK Card Association, the cardholder is likely
to spend up to 40 per cent above the value of the gift card).
2.Consider how you want to convey your brand through the design and
display of your gift cards.
3.Choose a design that reflects and enhances your brand. Including
the name of your business is a good way to get immediate brand
recognition with your customers.
4.Think about how many gift cards you want to purchase – some
schemes only require minimum orders of 100 cards, which means
smaller businesses can take advantage of gift card schemes.
5.Sign up for a scheme and you may be able to update your software
or your card-processing terminal, so that you are up-to-date with the
latest equipment.
6.More often than not, your gift card provider can deliver one-to-one
training with your staff members, ensuring you are making the most
of your gift card scheme.
7.Display your gift cards in an eye-catching way at the front of your
store to make sure all your customers are aware of your new service.
8.Use your management system to gather information on the
effectiveness of your scheme so you can review and tailor it to your
ongoing business needs.
Chris Davies is MD of HSBC Merchant Services LLP,
a wholly-owned subsidiary of Global Payments Inc.
Global Payments Inc (NYSE: GPN) is a leading provider
of electronic transaction processing services for
merchants, independent sales organisations (ISOs),
financial institutions, government agencies and multinational corporations located throughout the United
States, Canada, Europe, and the Asia-Pacific region.
Global Payments, a Fortune 1000 company, offers a
comprehensive line of processing solutions for credit
and debit cards, business-to-business purchasing
cards, gift cards, electronic cheque conversion and
cheque guarantee, verification and recovery including
electronic cheque services, as well as terminal
for
management. Visit
more information.
69
70
Industry Data
Prices • Figures • Outlook
Retail sales volume: May 2011
During May, year-on-year sales volumes increased by 0.2 per cent
and the value of retail sales increased by 3.8 per cent.
Predominantly non-food stores saw growth across all sectors
other than household goods stores, which plummeted for a fourth
consecutive month by six per cent. Non-store retailing again saw the
largest volume of year-on-year growth, with an increase of 19 per
cent. Similarly, the average weekly value for internet retail sales in
May was £527.3 million, with the internet contributing to 9.4 per
cent of total retail sales.
Estimated prices in retail sales increased in May 3.8 per cent on
the year and 0.3 per cent on the month.
During the period from April to May 2011, retail sales volumes
decreased by 1.4 per cent, with value also decreasing by the same
amount. The Office for National Statistics (ONS) states that possible
reasons for the decrease were consumers cutting back due to the
economic climate and April growth inflated by the extra bank holiday,
royal wedding and warm weather.
Source: ONS
Metal prices
May 11
Jun 11
Jul 11
Change
Sterling silver (£/Kg)
687.87
670.20
654.11
Minus 2%
Gold (£/g)
29.64
30.22
30.35
No Change
Palladium (£/g)
14.40
15.56
15.42
Minus 1%
Platinum (£/g)
35.31
35.79
34.70
Minus 3%
Rhodium (£/g)
43.27
42.74
40.22
Minus 6%
Iridium (£/g)
20.62
20.69
21.11
Plus 2%
Ruthenium (£/g)
3.53
3.55
3.62
Plus 2%
Scrap metal prices
Apr 11
May 11
Jun 11
Change
Sterling silver scrap (£/kg)
645.85
629.26
614.15
Minus 2%
9ct Gold scrap (£/g)
10.73
10.93
10.98
No Change
16.73
17.06
17.13
No Change
21.45
21.87
21.97
No Change
26.20
26.71
26.83
No Change
Platinum (95%) scrap (£/g)
28.51
28.90
28.02
Minus 3%
Data supplied courtesy of Cookson Precious Metals. www.cooksongold.com
All prices shown on this page enjoy indicative status only. Jewellery Focus and Cookson Precious Metals
accepts no responsibility for their accuracy or for any use to which they may be put
Diamond prices
May
Jul
Sep
Nov
Jan
2010
Seasonally adjusted figures
Mar
May
2011
Weight
G/VVS
G/SI
J/VVS
J/SI
J/I1
0.05 Carat
1,654
957
1,201
870
766
0.10 Carat
1,623
1,066
1,611
955
716
0.25 Carat
2,700
1,492
2,257
1,268
865
0.50 Carat
6,490
3,029
3,966
2,596
2,163
0.75 Carat
7,798
4,874
5,135
3,621
2,924
1.00 Carat
14,435
7,654
9,819
6,311
4,028
The table above has been prepared by SafeGuard and is an average of the retail selling prices of round brilliant
cut diamonds per carat including an average retail markup and VAT. There is no allowance for the mount but
the prices have been taken from mounted goods prices. The table is also compared with International diamond
prices for additional accuracy.
Compiled at 1st July 2011 /Dollar Exchange Rate 1.6086
Industry Data
Hallmark figures
Silver 999
958
925
800
Gold
999
990
916
750
585
375
Platinum
999
950
900
850
Palladium
999
950
500
Total
Hallmark figures Q2 2011
June 10
June 11
Variance
%
602
1,836
654,295
0
656,733
59
2
29,385
93,820
33,568
259,501
416,335
50
22,465
12
1
22,528
250
15,150
22
15,422
1,111,018
1,169
621
448,761
120
450,671
88
0
31,702
77,578
7,415
262,974
379,757
5
21,279
13
1
21,298
0
9,116
248
9,364
861,090
567
-1,215
-205,534
120
-206,062
29
-2
2,317
-16,242
-26,153
3,473
-36,578
-45
-1,186
1
0
-1,230
-250
-6,034
226
-6,058
-249,928
94.2
-66.2
-31.4
100.0
-31.4
49.2
-100.0
7.9
-17.3
-77.9
1.3
-8.8
-90.0
-5.3
8.3
0.0
-5.5
-100.0
-39.8
1,027.3
-39.3
-22.5
Silver 999
958
925
800
Gold 999
990
916
750
585
375
Platinum 999
950
900
850
June 10
June 11
Variance
%
1,804
4,878
1,902,997
1
1,909,680
93
4
83,517
253,191
63,506
803,061
1,203,372
145
68,183
117
4
68,449
4,360
1,532
1,238,343
127
1,244,362
137
8
87,308
203,858
15,779
621,690
928,780
20
61,527
32
9
61,588
2,556
-3,346
-664,654
126
-665,318
44
4
3,791
-49,333
-47,727
-181,371
-274,592
-125
-6,656
-85
5
-6,861
2
-248
-7,339
141.7
-68.6
-34.9
12,600.0
-34.8
47.3
100.0
4.5
-19.5
-75.2
-22.6
-22.8
-86.2
-9.8
-72.6
125.0
-10.0
-99.2
-20.1
4,618.9
-16.0
-29.6
Palladium 999
250
950
36,486
29,147
500
37
1,746
Total
36,773 30,895
3,218,274 2,265,625
1,709
-5,878
-952,649
Hallmarking figures showed a further serious decline in the second quarter with total volumes down 29.6 per cent – 950,000 units less than 2010. This
followed a drop of 12.6 per cent in the first quarter and reflects the combined impact of the squeeze on disposable income and the soaring metal prices, which
particularly affected silver after prices rocketed to over £29 per ounce in April. Despite this, silver still represented 55 per cent of the articles hallmarked.
71
72
Events and auctions
Events
24 – 26 July
JA New York Summer Show
Javits Convention Center
New York City, New York
United States
25 – 28 August
Copenhagen Jewellery Fair
Bella Center
Copenhagen
Denmark
27 – 31 July
Singapore International
Jewellery Show
Marina Bay Sands
Singapore
26 – 30 August
Tendence
Messe Frankfurt
Frankfurt, Germany
www.ja-newyork.com/jany/jany-summer
www.sijs.com.sg
7 – 9 August
JCK Toronto
Metro Toronto
Convention Centre
Toronto
Canada
www.jcktoronto.ca
7 – 9 August
Pure London & Pure Spirit
Olympia Grand Hall
London
www.purelondon.com
14 – 16 August
Moda Accessories
NEC
Birmingham
www.moda-uk.co.uk
www.cphjf.dk
tendence.messefrankfurt.com
28 – 30 August
JAA International Jewellery Fair
Sydney Exhibition Centre,
Darling Harbour
Sydney
Australia
www.internationaljewelleryfair.com.au
1 – 3 September
Japan Jewellery Fair
Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center
Tokyo, Japan
2 – 5 September
Eclat de Mode
Paris Porte de Versailles
Paris, France
www.bijorhca.com
3 – 5 September
MIDORA Leipzig
Leipzig Exhibition Centre
Leipsic, Germany
www.midora.de
4 – 7 September
Autumn Fair International
NEC, Birmingham
www.autumnfair.com
4 – 7 September
International Jewellery London
Earls Court 2, London
www.jewellerylondon.com
www.japanjewelleryfair.com
10 – 14 September
VICENZAORO Choice
Fiera di Vicenza
Vicenza, Italy
2 – 4 September
Times Glamour
Vivanta by Taj President
South Bombay
India
17 – 21 September
Junwex Moscow
All-Russian Exhibition Centre
Moscow, Russia
www.timesglamour.com
www.vicenzafiera.it
www.eng.rjexpert.ru
Auction dates
26 July
Campbells
Jewellery, silver, clocks
and watches
Worthing, West Sussex
www.campbellsauctions.co.uk
10 August
Bonhams
Jewellery
Knightsbridge, London
www.bonhams.com
6 August
Kent Auction Galleries Ltd
Victorian and later effects,
including jewellery,
silver and coins
Folkestone, Kent
23 August
A F Brock & Company Limited
Jewellery, watches
and silverware
Hazel Grove, Stockport
Cheshire
10 September
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
9 August
Dreweatts 1759
Jewellery, silver,
watches and coins
Bristol
www.dnfa.com
www.afbrock.co.uk
6 September
Campbells
and watches
Worthing, West Sussex
20 – 23 September
Costume Jewellery and
Accessories Salon
Manezh Exhibition Complex
Moscow, Russia
www.gifts-expo.com/eng/salons/3.html
23 September
Wellers Auctioneers
Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery
Chertsey, Surrey
9 September
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery, watches,
silver and clocks
Chertsey
Surrey
www.kentauctiongalleriesltd.co.uk
www.jewellerynetasia.com/en/fairs.html
21 September
Bonhams
Fine jewellery
New Bond Street, London
20 August
Antiques and fine arts, including
jewellery, silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
19 – 23 & 21 – 25 September
September Hong Kong
Jewellery and Gem Fair
AsiaWorld-Expo & Hong
Kong Convention and
Exhibition Centre
Hong Kong
8 September
Bonhams
Jewellery and silver
Edinburgh
www.bonhams.com
5 August
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery, watches,
silver and clocks
Chertsey
Surrey
www.wellersauctions.com
www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk
20 September
Capes Dunn
Antique jewellery, silver,
watches, wares and coins
Manchester
29 July
Jacobs & Hunt
Silver and jewellery
Petersfield, Hampshire
18 – 19 September
Scotland’s Trade Fair Autumn
SECC
Glasgow
7 September
Bonhams
Jewellery
Knightsbridge
London
19 August
Wellers Auctioneers
Pawnbroker and secondhand jewellery
Chertsey, Surrey
www.jacobsandhunt.com
IJL
www.bonhams.com
13 September
Bonhams
Jewellery
Oxford
www.bonhams.com
www.capesdunn.com
www.bonhams.com
24 September
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
4 October
Dreweatts 1759
Jewellery, silver,
watches and coins
Bristol
www.dnfa.com
21 – 25 September
Portojóia
Porto International Fair
Oporto
Portugal
www.portojoia.exponor.pt
30 September – 3 October
INTERGEM
Messe Idar-Oberstein
Idar-Oberstein
Germany
www.intergem-messe.de
7 – 10 October
Malaysia Jewellery Festival
Kuala Lumpur
Convention Centre
Kuala Lumpur
Malaya
www.mij.com.my/MJF
7 October
Wellers Auctioneers
Jewellery, watches,
silver and clocks
Chertsey
Surrey
8 October
silver and coins
Folkestone
Kent
18 October
Campbells
and watches
Worthing
West Sussex
74
Directory
DIRECTORY
To advertise in this section please call our sales team now on 01206 767797
AMBER JEWELLERY
ASSAYERS BULLION DEALERS
BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING
ANTIQUE Jewellery Enthusiasts
BARCODING, LABELLING & PRINTING
BEADS
ANTIQUE Jewellery Enthusiasts
Totally Wholesale
Burhouse Beads is the UK’s largest
wholesale supplier of gemstones,
jewellery findings and components.
Specialising in fresh water pearls and high
quality bead strings. We also offer a full
range of associated hardware and tools.
Visit: www.burhousebeads.co.uk
Burhouse Beads, Quarmby Mills, Tanyard Road, Oakes,
Huddersfield West Yorkshire, England HD3 4YP
Tel: +44 (0)1484 485100 Fax: 44 (0)1484 462696
Email: sales@burhousebeads.com
BOXES, PADS & PACKAGING
O
& C.,
ROEDER HOUSE, VALE ROAD LONDON N4 1QA
EMAIL: info@justbros.co.uk
WEB: www.justbros.co.uk
Tel: 020 8880 2505 - Fax: 020 8802 0062
ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING
PACKAGING STOCKISTS
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To advertise here call Jewellery Focus
now on 01206 767 797
Directory
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CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY
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Your Views
Voice
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highstreet
John Cussell of John Cussell, Grantham
You’re celebrating 32 years in jewellery retail this year – how did
you first become involved in the trade? Could you tell us a bit about
the shop’s history?
Silversmithing is a very special skill. There are very few
smiths like myself running a workshop as part of a retail
business. I am indebted to my school metalwork master,
a Mr A Westcott, who saw I had potential in this field and
asked if I’d ever thought of being a silversmith. This was the
beginning of an amazing career and adventure.
I initially spent a year at the Central School of Art and
Crafts (now Central Saint Martins College of Art and
Design), and in 1962 received a five-year apprenticeship
under Alf Rose at ecclesiastical silversmith Hirst Franklin. I
then moved on to the workshop of Stuart Devlin, where by
this time I was myself instructing an apprentice. In the early
1970s I set up a small workshop in Spain with my wife-tobe Jenni West. On my return, I worked for a brief spell for
Michael Driver, before moving out of London and setting up
a workshop in Grantham. My big break came in 1977 when
I was commissioned by the Lincoln Cathedral Fabric Fund
to design and produce a limited edition range of silver cups
based on an Elizabethan chalice dated to 1569. Two hundred
cups were produced and sold within six months.
It wasn’t too long before the thought of having a shop
as well as a workshop seemed to be a great idea, and so we
opened a fairly small shop. When larger premises became
available in 1995, we moved there and became John
Cussell’s. My most prestigious commission to date has been
the De Beers Trophy, which was made in collaboration
with designer Mary Dean of London and presented by Her
Majesty the Queen to the winner of the King George VI and
Queen Elizabeth Diamond Stakes at Ascot in 1996.
In addition to large scale commissions, I have an extensive
portfolio of jewellery commissioned by my customers over
the years, which ranges from simple silver stock pins to
brooches, pendants and large diamond rings. In the initial
stages of undertaking a commission, I spend time speaking
with the customer in our consultation area. This is an organic
process, and – although the customer may come in with an
image of what they want – after discussions, the finished
design is sometimes different.
In 2008, John Cussell’s was awarded Independent Retailer
of the Year at the Grantham Journal Business Awards. Our
success over the years is not only due to the wide range of
jewellery that I can source, but is also testimony to the great
service we provide, and having extremely knowledgeable and
helpful staff (of which we now employ seven). Each week we
hold a staff meeting with two senior members of the team,
and also have a full staff meeting every month. This gives
an opportunity for everyone to share thoughts, ideas and
problems and celebrate our successes in order to move the
shop forward.

81
82
Your Views
What’s selling well at the moment? Are you noticing any clear
buying trends?
At the moment, branded designs are selling well. We stock
Chamilia, Coeur de Lion, Nomination and Unique. The
jewellery shop has changed quite radically in the last five
years. With my history of working in gold and silver, I found
the shift of retailing jewellery other than in precious metals
quite alien – the days of wearing heavy gold chains are long
since gone!
Though we can cater for all tastes, some of our customers
are not so concerned with gold and diamonds etc – they
enjoy and want to buy colourful, exciting, bold jewellery.
Buying trends are definitely changing. Men’s jewellery is also
taking off – again, this is now in stainless steel and leather,
which is being made into extremely wearable pieces.
You don’t currently have an online shop – are there any plans to
establish one in the future?
This is something that we are working towards. It’s obviously
the way forward, and a lot of businesses have moved into this
next phase of their development. However there is nothing
to replace actually handling a piece of jewellery and trying
it on. We do have a website, which we are proud of – it’s a bit
different to most others, but it does give a flavour of the kind
of shop and people we are.
You pride yourself on your sustainability and use of ethicallysourced materials. What steps do you take to ensure your impact
on the environment is minimal, and what advice would you give to
other jewellers who wish to follow suit?
All the diamonds we use are conflict free. We have been
conscious of ‘blood diamonds’ for a long time; long before
the issue was highlighted by a documentary film.
In the shop and workshop we prioritise recycling; the
sourcing of and respect for materials; and the use of
sustainable sources of power. Most of the shop’s lighting
is low voltage, and we are now exploring the use of diode
lighting. Aware of the cost to the environment through
power generation, in 2003 we were also one of the first
companies to sign up to Green Energy Plc, where we now
have ambassador shareholder status. This means that
100 per cent of our power comes from renewable sources.
All plastics and cardboard are recycled, and we rescue
all gold and silver filings from the skin and on the floor.
In 2009, we also replaced all oil-based plastic bags with
paper packaging. Following on from Anita Roddick’s (the
Body Shop) policy to educate on environmental issues,
Jenni designed the bags incorporating a Native American
saying: “We do not inherit the earth; we borrow it from our
children.” Something we all need to keep in mind!
Do you enjoy trading in Grantham? Is it a good place to do business?
I was one of the founder members of the Grantham Business
Club, and am actively involved in local business associations,
taking part in discussions with the council on issues that
involve independent retailers within the town. In this climate
of recession, we are seeing many small shops closing all over
the country, so it is important to join and have a voice in
your local business club.
Grantham is a small market town, and it has proved a good
choice to have settled and set up a business in. We now have
an extremely wide clientele, with customers not only coming
from the locality, but also young people who moved away to
university etc coming back to us for their engagement and
wedding rings. We are probably now on second generation
rings! We also have clients in as far-flung places as London,
Edinburgh, Australia and the United States.
What advice would you give to young designers hoping to follow in
your footsteps? Is it a tougher market now than when you were
starting out?
Due to the lack of availability of apprenticeship places, it is
difficult these days for young craftsmen and -women to gain
trade experience. Although college and degree courses serve
a purpose, they don’t have the grounding or scope of work
that an apprenticeship would give. The wealth of knowledge
and experience that can be gained from working alongside
and talking to experienced craftsmen is immeasurable.
My advice to a young designer is to not give up at the first
hurdle. If you are producing well-designed, quality items
then word-of-mouth is one of the best adverts.
What are your plans for the future?
Future plans are firstly to explore online sales and to refresh
our website. By Christmas, we also hope to have revamped
our window displays, which, although at first sight might look
good, are becoming worn. Interior-wise, we need to build
some new display cabinets and revamp our counter sales area.
Jenni and I would also like to sell more jewellery designed
and made in the UK. We have a wide spectrum of jewellery
and can cater for most pockets, but to feature jewellery
designed and made here would be another niche market.
Finally, as far as ethically-sourced materials are concerned,
we want to look into ethically-sourced gold.