Historic Early Tudor Costuming

Hist or ic Early Tudor C ostuming
Early Tudor Timeframe
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1495-1509 – Reign of Henry VII
1590-1547 – Reign of Henry VIII
Finding your Costume
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Portraits and Picture
Movies
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Commoners – Pieter Bruegel
Court – Hans Holbein the Younger
Lady Jane – 1986
The Other Bolyn Girl – 2008
Garment Pieces
CO M MONE RS
Women
Men
Smock
Kirtle
Gown
Hose
Head cover
Belt
Shoes
CO URT
Women
Brais
Shirt
Doublet
Hose
Coat/Gown
Belt
Hat
Shoes
Smock
Petticoat
Kirtle
Farthingale
Gown
Foresleeves
Hose
Ribbon/belt
English Gable or
French Hood
Shoes
Men
Brais
Shirt
Doublet
Hose
Gown
Belt
Hat
Shoes
Fabrics
CO M MONE RS
Fabrics
Linen – Middle to
heavy weight
Wool – Flannel, worsted
or melton
Leather
Fur (fox, rabbit, lamb)
Notions
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Colors
CO URT
Fabrics
“Off” black (green or brown
undertone)
White/Off-white
Blue
Red
Branches and
geometric designs
Wool – Flannel,
worsted or melton
Leather
Velvet
Fur
Silk (avoid slubbed silk
such as dupoini)
No paisley
Accessories
Buttons
Hooks and Eyes
Straight Pins
Boning
Trim
Adornment
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Purses and Pouches
Jewelry
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Rings
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Necklaces
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Broaches
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Earrings
Colors
True black
Violet/Purple
Red
Gold and Silver metallic
White
Rich saturated colors
Fabrics and resources:
http://www.historicenterprises.com/ - medieval style clothing and accessories
http://www.museumreplicas.com/- Farthingale (hoop)
http://www.fabrics-store.com/ - Linen at GOOD prices
www.renaissancefabrics.net - Wool fabric
www.thewoolconnection.com - Wool fabric
https://www.reconstructinghistory.com/ Patterns and notions, including boning and pins
Tudor Ladies Gown - RH601 - Tudor Lady's Gown & Kirtle - The perfect
lady's gown for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody"
Mary Tudor. Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor Lady's Gown based on
pictorial references and the work of Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies
in their book The Tudor Tailor. Supportive kirtle and overgown included in
package. Two sleeve styles, two undersleeves, and trained or untrained skirts
with or without front split. Fits busts 30!"-48" and waists 23"-41". All sizes
included in one envelope. Embellishment suggestions included.
Common GownRH603 - Early Tudor Commonwoman's Outfit - The perfect
common woman's outfit for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and
"Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor
commonwoman's outfit including front- or back-lacing kirtle, smock, cap, apron,
and choice of two styles of partlet.
RH606 - Early Tudor Common Man's Outfit - The perfect commoner's outfit for
the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. This
outfit was worn by common men across Europe and was particularly prevalent in
the works of Flemish and Netherlandish artists. Full size paper patterns for Early
Tudor common man's outfit including shirt, front- or side-lacing doublet, jerkin,
hosen and trousers.
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RH604 - Early Tudor Noble Man's Outfit - The perfect gentleman's gown for the
Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn, and "Bloody" Mary
Tudor.
Full size paper patterns for Early Tudor nobleman's gown and jerkin.
RH602 - Tudor Lady's Skivvies - The perfect lady's underpinnings for the Northern
Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full size paper
patterns for Early Tudor Lady's Skivvies based on pictorial references and the work
of Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies in their book The Tudor Tailor.
Petticote, farthingale, and high-neck or scoop-neck smock included in pattern. Also
included are a common woman's apron and three versions of the partlet &em; square
pin-on, square tied, and rounded caplet. Fits busts 30!"-48" and waists 23"-41". All
sizes included in one envelope. Embellishment suggestions included.
RH605 - Early Tudor Noble Man's Skivvies - The perfect genlteman's underclothes
for the Northern Renaissance period of Henry VIII and "Bloody" Mary Tudor. Full
size paper patterns for Early Tudor nobleman's shirt, doublet and hosen for wear
under nobleman's jerkin and gown (RH604
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www.tudortailor.com - Patterns and notions, including buttons
English or gable hood
This style of headdress was fashionable from the 1520s to the 1540s. Evidence from
effigies suggests that it continued to be worn by gentlewomen, rather less fashionably,
through the 1550s and 1560s. The pattern is based on information gathered from primary
sources including: Figure on a monument to Sir Walter Devereux and his two wives (1537)
in St. John’s Church, Stowe-by-Chartley, Staffordshire. Two views of a woman wearing an
English Hood by Hans Holbein, c.1528-30, British Museum. Portrait of Jane Seymour, by
Hans Holbein, 1537. Royal Cabinet of Paintings, Mauritshuis and a wire stiffener for a
hood (inventory no.Z640*), Museum of London.
Henrician bonnet kit
This style of bonnet was fashionable wear for gentlemen from the late fifteenth century
through to the 1540s. Our kit contains everything you need to make one bonnet
inc luding: Pattern, instructions, black velvet, buckram, domet, wire and silk 'sarcenet' for
lining. Jewels and feather are not inc luded.
The pattern and materials have been based on documentary and pictorial sources
inc luding: Portrait of Henry VIII c.1536, Holbein, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid.
Wooden model for a medal bearing a portrait of Charles de Solier, lord of Morette
c1530, Christoph Weiditz, Victoria and Albert Museum, London. ‘… A bonnet of black
velvet and a brooch on it, cost 5 marks.’ Inventory of Dame Agnes Hungerford, 1523. ‘…
A bonnet of velvet 7s 6d.’ Amongst items of clothing stolen from Anthony Strelley,
gentleman, 1543, Records of the Borough of Nottingham
Early Tudor women's gowns
Several styles suitable for middle class women during the first half of the sixteenth
century. Based on documentary descriptions, brasses, effigies and paintings, including:
Tomb effigies of two unknown ladies of c1520 at St Andrew’s Church, Prestwold,
Charnwood, Leicestershire. Brass monument to T. Pownder and wife, 1525, St Mary
Quay, Ipswich. Figures in The Wedding Dance in the Open Air, 1566, Pieter Bruegel.
The Detriot Institute of Arts, Detriot and A Woman Seated on a Settle with Four
Children, c1540, Holbein, The British Museum, London.
Henrician Man's gown, doublet, jerkin and hose
The patterns in this pack are based on original sources including: doublets and
venetians in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes
for men and women c1560-1620, London: Mac millan; Hose found at Kloster
Alpirsbach, Germany c1490-1529; Figures from The Embarkation at Dover and The
Field of the Cloth of Gold, artist unknown, The Royal Collection; Henry VIII, after
Holbein, c1536, Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool .
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Henrician Lady's petticoat, French kirtle and gown
The patterns in this pack are based on original sources including: a pair of bodies
c1598 in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of fashion: The c ut and construction of clothes
for men and women c1560-1620, London: Mac millan; Mary Tudor's wardrobe
accounts 1556 (E101/427/11); Elizabeth I wardrobe accounts in Arnold, J (1985)
Patterns of fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women
c1560-1620; Two views of a woman wearing an English Hood, Hans Holbein
c1528-30, British Museum; Portrait of Jane Seymour, Hans Holbein 1537, Royal
Cabinet of Paintings, Mauritshuis; and a portrait of Catherine Parr att. Master John
c1545, National Portrait Gallery, London.
French hoods
Several styles based on primary sources including: Figures on a monument to Sir George
Vernon and his two wives (1567) in All Saints Church, Bakewell, Derbyshire; Figures on a
monument to Thomas Manners, Earl of Rutland (1543) in St Mary's Church, Bottesford,
Leicestershire; Portrait of Catherine Parr, attributed to Master John c1545. National Portrait
Gallery, London; Electrotype of a medal of Mary I after Jacopo da Trezzo, c1555, National
Portrait Gallery, London.
Tudor girl's kirtles & petticoats
The pack contains several styles which are suitable for ordinary girls for most of the
16th century. The patterns are based on original sources, including: a bodice worn
under a gown by Eleanora of Toledo (died 1562) in Arnold, J (1985) Patterns of
fashion: The cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560-1620,
London: Mac millan, 102; Thomasine Petre's accounts (1555); a detail from The field
of the cloth of gold (undated), artist unknown, Royal Collection (Hampton Court
Palace); and a detail from The St Bartholomew's day massacre (1572) by Francois
Dubois, Lausanne .
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SHOES
www.nmia.com/~bohemond/index.html - Bohemond - Shoes and pouches
Mary Rose Shipwreck Tudor Shoe
Based on shoes found in the Tudor era shipwreck, the Mary
Rose, and on many shoes pictured in "Stepping through Time,"
The Mary Rose shoe is representative of men's shoes worn
about 1530 to 1600 and is the perfect Tudor or renaissance
shoe. The Mary Rose was Henry VIII's favorite war ship which
was lost in 1545.
Landsknecht Shoe
Found in "Stepping Through Time" by Olaf Goubitz, Carol van
Driel-Murry and Willy Groenman-van Waateringe this is the
quintessential Landsknechts shoe worn by Swiss & German
mercenaries that became a fashion sensation and worn all
over Europe. The shoe dates commonly from 1480 to 1600
during the late medieval period and into the renaissance.
Common names for this shoe are bear paw (if the shoe was
cut and slashed), cow mouth or cowmouth, Kuhmaul, and
bear paw shoe. This shoe is very similar to those worn by the Swiss Guard at the Vatican.
The Landsknecht shoe is also worn by Henry VIII in several paintings.
15th Century Pouch
"Annunciation Triptych" Gallery
The 15th century medieval belt pouch is taken from the
"Annunciation Triptych" illumination. This pouch shows up often in
other 15th century illumination. In the "Annunciation Triptych" the
purse is adorned with two moon shaped fittings, has a buckle, and
fashionably displays a bollock knife or dagger in a scabbard tucked
behind the pouch. The buckle is from Museum of London's Dress
Accessories. This seems to be the purse or pouch of a Nobleman and is worn by a man.
http://revival.us/
These shoes, based on a simplified version of a 14th century
low boot, has been crafted to what we think is a fine
compromise between authenticity, function and cost. Ours are
constructed for sturdy wear and are available in red, brown,
black and forest green in full sizes from Ladies 5 - 10 to Men's
6-14.
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