Rigging the Seahopper for Sailing

Transcription

Rigging the Seahopper for Sailing
SEAHOPPER FOLDING BOATS
RIGGING THE SEAHOPPER FOR SAILING
Stepping the Mast
Step 1
Lay the mast on the boat with the top end overhanging the back of the boat. Attach the side wire stays to
the fixings on the inside of the boat using the rack provided. (The Kondor stays need to be attached using
the bolts provided)
Step 2
Raise the mast to the upright position ensuring that the mast is housed in the wooden block on the floor
of the boat.
Note: On the Niffty Fifty there are two positions for the mast. If you wish to hoist the jib sail and the main
sail, the mast goes into the mast step (wooden block) nearest to the centre thwart and the side stays are
secured to the two fixings on the sides of the boat nearest to the back of the boat. If you wish to hoist the
main sail only, use the front mast block and side stay fixings.
Step 3
Clip the wire forestay to the white hook, which is already attached to the front thwart by rope and
tighten the rope as much as possible before tying it off on a cleat on the edge of the thwart seat.
Important: The forestay needs to be tight in order to prevent the mast from swaying from side to side.
It must also be well secured to prevent the mast from falling down! It may help to push the mast
slightly forward is order to get extra tension on the forestay.
Attaching and Hoisting the Sails
General Note
It is often better to attach the sail(s) arid raise them to check that they are property setup before
launching the boat. If it is windy however, you may find it safer and easier to then lower the main sail
again to launch the boat and then raise it when you are on the water and ready to sail off
Step 1
Head the boat into the wind so that the sails do not flap too much.
Mainsail
Step 1
Lay the mainsail in the boat with the boom (pole attached to the foot of the sail) and the gaff (pole
attached to the top half of the sail) so that the snap-hooks are near to the mast.
Step 2
Take the rope (uphaul) which leads down from the top of the mast (at the back) and clip it onto the gaff
pole fitting (use the fitting furthest from the top of the sail, unless you intend to reef the sail as described
later).
Step 3
Raise the beaded ring above the cleats on the mast and clip the end of the gaff onto this and begin to
hoist the sail.
Step 4
When the sail is part raised, you can clip the boom onto the small fixed steel ring on the mast, (position a
few inches above the cleats) and continue to raise the sail.
Step 5
Secure the uphaul to the top cleat with a couple of turns.
Reefing the Main Sail – (for windy conditions of safety)
This is best done before sailing off.
Step 1
Basically you attach the uphaul to the higher fitting on the gaff.
Step 2
Haul the sail as high as it will go, tie off then roll the sail around the boom until the boom is the same
length as the boom fixing on the mast, then chip it on. You will not be able to use the uphaul as a kicking
strap so just take up the remainder between two cleats.
Jib Sail
The jib is generally used on the Niffty Fifty and the Kondor when the boat is sailed by 2 or more people.
(Although both sails can be operated single-handed if desired.)
Step 1
Attach the eye of the top of the jib to the white hook on the jib uphaul which is threaded through the top
of the mast at the front.
Step 2
Haul the jib sail up and attach the white clips on the leading edge of the sad to the wire forestay as you
pull it up.
Step 3
Cleat the uphaul onto mast cleat and take up any slack by winding between 2 cleats (as for the mainsail
uphaul).
Step 4
Take the rope attached to the bottom of the jib sail (downhaul) thread it through a fixing in the front
thwart and tie it off on a cleat on the edge of the thwart.
Step 5
Thread the jib sheets (i.e. the ropes attached to the sail, which are used to control it) through a fixing on
the side of the boat (just after the centre thwart) and then make a figure of 8 knot in the end of the rope,
so that it cannot escape.
Note: Normally the jib sheets are kept inside the side stays; however you may find that they are less likely
to snag the stay when close hauled if they go outside the stays (the preference is yours!)
Rudder and Dagger-Board
Rudder
Step 1
Before attaching the rudder, raise it to the horizontal position by pulling on the rope and securing it on
the jamming cleat on the handle.
Note: You will need to release this to drop the rudder when in deep enough water. It helps, however, in
shallow water to let it into the water partway at first, to give it some steerage.
Step 2
Be sure to put the rudder stock (handle) through the horse (rope loop on stern bracket) before locating
the 2 pins into their fittings on the stern bracket.
Step 3
Position the turnbuckle over the top pin to prevent it from rising.
Daggerboard
Do not put this in whilst the boat is not in the water - however, if possible, put the daggerboard down
before getting into the boat as this will greatly add to its stability. If the water is shallow you will need to
put it partway down at least, if you wish to sail against the wind.
Step 1
Launch the boat transom (bad end) first using the skeg wheel to manoeuvre the boat into the water
(remember you may need to drop the mainsail to do this safety).
Step 2
If launching from rough or soft ground you may need to attach a pair of sand-wheels temporarily (ensure
the pin goes through the hole in the skeg) and then remove these once the boat is afloat to prevent too
much drag.
POSITIONS OF RIGGING HOOKS AND MAST STEPS
Mast step.
Front of block to front -of hog. 7’10 (2.4m) …………17” (430mm)
Jib position.
7’10 (2.4m) …………32” (810mm)
6’8 (2.03m)…………13⅜” (340mm)
Rigging hooks. Bow to top hole of hook.
Jib Poition.
7’10 (2.4m)………….30½” (775mm)
7’10 (2.4m)………….53½” (1360mm)
6’8 (2.03m)…………27½” (700mm)
The rudder is fitted onto the stern using the two black nylon gudgeons after passing the tiller through the
horse.
TO REEF.
Before setting out, always check the strength of the wind.
Remember it may be quite calm on shore but fresh and gusty further out. If in any doubt reef the sail – it
is much easier to do it on shore. If you do get caught out with the wind freshening, tie up to a mooring
buoy or an anchored boat.
Remove the mainsheet from the boom. Lower the sail and hook the halyard to the upper hook on the
gaff. Pull the boom free from the mast and roll up the sail as tidily as possible. Push the boom onto the
mast and refit mainsheet.
JIB RIG.
Stop mast in rear block and fit rigging to rear hooks. Hook forestay as before and tighten.
Jib downhaul is fitted as shown.
Hook halyard to peak of jib (the narrowest corner) and downhaul to tack.
Clip jib to forestay and hoist, cleating halyard on jamming cleat.
Jib sheets should be led inside rigging, in through jammers on gunwhale and knotted.
TRIM. It will be-found when sailing with either rig that the trim, i.e. the level of the boat, is important
for the best performance. The ideal trim is when both transoms are just clear of the water. When
singlehanded, sit on the back edge of the centre thwart. If the oars are fitted both sides of the boat, these
will make reasonable side seats.
Disclaimer
Seahopper Folding Boats has built these boats in compliance with Recreational Craft Regulations 1996
(RCD)
The boats MUST be rigged with care as per these instructions. This is the recommended method and must
be followed.
Seahopper Folding Boats will not accept any liability if the boats are misused or if the boat is used for any
purpose other than rowing, motoring or sailing.
There is no in-built buoyancy! We do therefore STRONGLY ADVISE that some buoyancy aides are used on
our boats.
We can only promote sensible sailing and endorse the use of a "dead man" switch with any motor engine
used on the boat.
We do not condone the use of alcohol when boating.