Review 20141117 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20141117*
Lancia Stratos HF (1976 Sanremo Rally Car) 1:24 Scale Hasegawa Model Kit #20200 Review
The Lancia Stratos HF was designed from the ground up to compete in Rally racing, and proved very
successful in the 1970’s and early 1980’s. It started a new era in rallying as it was the first car designed
from scratch for this kind of competition. The three leading men behind the entire rallying project were
Lancia team manager Cesare Fiorio, British racer/engineer Mike Parkes and factory rally driver Sandro
Munari. The bodywork was designed by the head designer at Bertone, and the technical layout was loosely
based on a Lancia concept car called Stratos Zero. In 1971 Lancia presented the Lancia Stratos HF
prototype, Chassis 1240. It featured a distinctive crescent-shaped-wrap-around windshield providing
maximum forward visibility with almost no rear visibility. Lancia did extensive testing with the Stratos and
raced the car in several racing events where Group 5 prototypes were allowed during the 1972 and 1973
seasons. Production of the 400 cars required for homologation in Group 4 were launched in 1973 and the
car was homologated for the 1974 World Rally Championship.
For the modeler: This review covers the Hasegawa Kit #20220 Lancia Stratos HF in 1/24 scale. The kit
consists of 148 parts molded in White, Black and Clear with Rubber tires, a sheet of Rubber and Photoetch
parts. The decals are Cartograf. A highly detailed 10 page instruction sheet is included but as this is a
Japanese brand kit English is only added as a secondary language. The sample kit I have is dated 2004
and is a Re-release (Re-Pop) and is available in this version as well as a Street car and other race variants.
Build up is a typical chassis then interior then body assembly. The overall car is White with decals creating
the Green and Red paint on the body. There is no motor, this is a Curbside kit. The interior is a race car so
it is sparse but well detailed with decals on what parts exist. The chassis does assemble solid and the front
wheels are able to turn and pose. The body is very detailed with both decals and photoetch, but this is the
better style photoetch on runners that is much easier to work with. The quality of the kit is very nice with no
flash or severe mold lines. Overall size is Length: 6-3/8”, Width: 3-3/16”, Height: 2”.
Right On Replicas, LLC ©2014 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.
Follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations for any product mentioned here.
BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model
properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being
able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly
losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure.
Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice.
Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom
touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your
imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a “Factory Stock” or a “Replica” car your
choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you
are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no “Wrong way” to build your kit! Have fun and
enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence.
Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.
PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as
released in the 1976 SANREMO RALLY
version. Unless otherwise stated I use
Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for
assembly of the parts. Other adhesives
used in the construction are Superglue
and Elmer’s White Glue. Paints consist of
Testors Enamel bottle paints and “Rattle
can” spray paints. The body is finished
using 1:1 automotive use paint products
shot with an airbrush. One of the major
benefits of using automotive paint is a
very fast drying time. You can get just as
good results using Spray can products
but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about
6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the
cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most
model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild
detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. ***Note*** Always
follow the Manufacturer’s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the
review for your own protection.
PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is a
scan of the Cartograf
decals included in the kit.
You get all the body
markings for paint colors,
and the great part of being
Cartograf there is no color
shift in the decals and they
are as close to accurate
as you can get. There are
all the markings for both
the #1 and #4 team. Cartograf decals have virtually no carrier and will float easily and lay smooth. But I do
recommend the use of a setting solution due to the sizes of the decals and the compound curves you need
to cover. I use Micro Sol and Micro Set from Microscale Industries.
PIC 4 PIC 5 This kit comes with a nice set of Photoetch parts for details. Also a grille and Rubber mud
flap material is included. A thin wire is included for an antenna. The photoetch is on a runner and you just
carefully cut the part free with a hobby knife and attach with either Superglue or Pledge Floor Care.
Personally I use a small piece of masking tape on the runner to cut the part free and hold it from getting
lost. As noted there is a square of rubber material for mud flaps, in the instructions you will find a 1:1
template to cut the material out properly.
PIC 6 PIC 7 Start with the chassis and “motor”. The floor board has 2 holes that need to be drilled out.
They are clearly marked. All the parts will be assembled prior to painting and then painted as a whole and
detailed. See the next step for proper assembly sequence.
PIC 8 PIC 9 Install the “motor” panels as follows: Bottom, Right, Left, Back, Front, Rear then Top. Paint
the whole thing Flat Black and highlight the motor and transaxle details in Silver.
PIC 10 The subframe is continued in this step. The bulkhead
is painted Flat Black with the front lower part Tan. The upper
and lower support bars are Flat Black as are the rear support
mounts. The exhaust headers and pipes are Steel.
PIC 11 Install the glass with Elmer’s Glue in
the bulkhead and install that in the chassis.
Add the upper supports from the bulkhead
to the upper frame. The lower supports are
added to the upper frame bottom to the
lower frame diagonally. The rear supports
are installed. Assemble the exhaust and
install the straight pipe to the right panel and
the bent pipe to the rear panel.
PIC 12 Assemble the rear suspension, I used Superglue for all
the joints on this step for extra strength. Paint the brake discs
Silver with Steel hubs and calipers. The spindle is Steel. The
shock is Silver with Red springs. The axle is Silver with Flat Black
boots. The A-arms are Silver with Steel mounts.
PIC 13 Assemble in THIS ORDER:
install the poly cap into the spindle
and attach the brake. Add the axle
boot to the spindle back. Add the
shock to the spindle back. (The
caliper faces the rear of the car)
Install this unit to the frame and
motor panel. Add the A-arms in
place on the frame and spindle.
PIC 14 The interior is installed now. There
is a choice in the headrests for car #4 use
D7, for car #1 use D5 and D6. Add the
headrest you choose to the seat back. The
seat is Gray with a Black frame. Take
DECALS 65, 66, 67 and 68 for both seats
and loosely drape the seat belts in place to
give them a more realistic look.
PIC 15 Install the seats in place. The two fire extinguishers are Red with Silver trim and placed between
the seats and the passenger floor. The passenger foot rest is Silver and installed in place. The pedals are
Silver with Black arms. Install that into place. The E-brake is Silver with a Black handle and installed
between the seats. The shifter is Silver with a Black knob and the plate is Black with Silver trim. Install the
plate and add the shifter.
PIC 16 PIC 17 Install the front suspension and chassis parts now. Assemble parts1, G1, G11, G12, G31,
G32, C1, C2, C7, C10, C11, & C20. The brakes are Silver with Steel hubs and calipers. The spindle is
Steel. The A-arm is Silver. The shock is Red. The tie rod is Silver with Black boots. The lower frame is Flat
Black with Silver stabilizers. The radiator is Steel with Black fans. The spare tire deck is Flat Black with a
Rubber tire and Yellow rim, DECAL 46 is the center cap. The hose beside the tire is Silver. Install the
suspension in THIS ORDER: Install the poly caps into the spindles and ass the brakes calipers to the rear.
Snap the A-arm to the spindle (no Glue). Glue the A-arms to the frame. Add the shocks in place at an
angle out. Snap the tie rod to the spindle on both sides running it through the frame (no Glue). Add the
lower frame in place snapping the spindle into it (no Glue). For strength I used Superglue on all attachment
points that are glued. Add the radiator in place and add the tire panel in place.
PIC 18 PIC 19 Here are completed shots of the finished front and rear suspensions.
NOTE: the instruction sheet has you start the body and other assemblies here. I will detour from the
instructions and finish the chassis by adding the skid plates and tires to finish this assembly completely
prior to moving on.
PIC 20
PIC 21
There are
two skid
plates, the
big one is
Silver the
little one
Flat Black.
Add those in place on the bottom of
the chassis.
PIC 22 PIC
23 The tires are
the last chassis
item. There are
larger rear tires
than front tires.
The tires are
not directional
and have no
markings on the
sidewalls. To
create a more
road worn look
use 220 grit
sandpaper and
roll the tire pressing the tread onto the paper. Paint the rims Yellow with Black valve stems and silver lug
nuts. Add DECAL 46 to the hub and slide the rims into the tires. To attach them on the chassis just
carefully press the pin on the rims into the hole in the brakes.
PIC 24 Here is the completed rolling chassis with the tires installed. Set this aside for now.
Now we can step back to the instructions and continue as planned.
PIC 25 PIC 26 The dash is detailed next. The wheel is Flat Black with Steel spokes and DECAL 69 in the
center. The dash top and panel are Semi Gloss Black. Note the next photo for a detailed shot of the colors
and DECAL placement on the dash.
PIC 27 There are decals for each dial and instrument. Most of the knobs are Flat Black with a few Red or
Blue ones.
PIC 28
PIC 29 The body needs to be prepped for paint and decals prior to going any further. All of the
body panels can be added before paint so I did so now. There are rear fender flares, rear spoiler, rear
compartment vent, roll bar and camera on the roof.
PIC 30 PIC 31 Inside the body you need to drill out 3 holes. The driver side mirror mount and the two front
holes on the roof. I used a #11 blade and just carefully reamed them out.
PIC 32 PIC 33 Wet sand the whole car with 800 grit paper and Primer the whole car. Once the primer is
cured wet sand the whole car a second time to smooth the primer for paint. The inside will be painted Flat
Black and the outside White.
PIC 34 Body Decaling and Finishing:
After you have your base coat on the
car you are ready to decal it.
Remember decals lay better on a
GLOSS surface and will not adhere
properly on a FLAT surface. If you
decal a flat surface you get what is
called SILVERING of the decals, or the
look that they are not adhered, as air is
trapped under the decal. Clean your
work area good so no dust or grunge
from building and sanding gets under
your decals. Pick the decals you want
to work with and plan out how the best
way to lay them out without handling
previously laid decals will be. I try
either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom
approach doing one side at a time then
the front and rear of the car in steps
giving the decals time to set and dry in
place before handling it again. Once
you have a plan of action cut your first
decal as close to the edge of the
outermost color as possible. Once
trimmed place the decal into warm
water and let it get soft until it “Floats”
loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The
purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply
Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next
apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal.
Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher
decal like the roof panel apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes
as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the
decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of
Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done,
wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying
your clear coat.
PIC 35 PIC 36 PIC 37 PIC 38 Here is the completed decal job. There are a ton of decals and many
overlap. Work slow and let the lower layers cure before moving on. Now let the decals SET for overnight at
least. Finish any detail painting and Clear coat.
PIC 39 Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into
Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make
glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some
Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will selflevel and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to
prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper
towel will draw out the excess Pledge and “Wick” it off the parts so it does not accumulate at
the edges leaving an unwanted build up.
PIC 40 PIC 41 The inner body assembly starts now. Paint the front inner fender well panels Flat Black as
well as the back inner panel. The fuel caps are Silver. Install the front fender wells and rear panel. Add the
fuel caps in place. With Superglue install the metal screens into the rear windows. With Elmer’s Glue install
the windshield.
PIC 42 PIC 43 Continue interior installation. Assemble the door panels and panel pockets and paint those
Flat Black with Silver knobs and handles. The mirror is Black with a silver face. The light is Flat Black with
Silver sides. Install the door panels. Add the mirror and light. Install the dash.
PIC 44 PIC 45 The headlights can be displayed in open or closed position, I did mine open. Install the
bezel panel into the housing and paint that unit Flat Black. Paint the bezel Silver. Add the headlight to the
bezel and install the bezel in the housing. Now install these units on to the body.
PIC 46 Photoetch details need installed on the body. There are 6 lock pins. 2
pins are on the back of the hood and 4 pins on the back vents.
PIC 47 The grille is installed and 2 small light grilles on the front. The camera grille is installed. The
antenna base is Black and installed on the roof. I used Superglue to attach all photoetch.
PIC 48 Install the
chassis into the body
now. This is not a difficult
as it looked. Start slowly
with the front end at an
angle of about 45
degrees and lightly pull
the body sides out
allowing the chassis to
slide in-between. It will
almost line itself up on its
own without much
pressure. Carefully push
and maneuver the
chassis where it belongs
and press it into place.
PIC 49 Once set the body sides will envelope the chassis in place without glue.
PIC 50 The rear end is completed now. The tail
lights are Stop Light Red on the bottom and Turn
Signal Yellow on the top with a Silver center. The
tag plate, tail light bezel and tag light are Black. Cut
the mud flaps from the rubber material.
PIC 51 Assemble the tail lights by installing the
bezels, add the metal reflector then add the lens.
Install the backup lights. Cut the tag out and attach it
to the mount and the mount to the car. Add the tag
light. Superglue the mud flaps to the wheel wells. Add
the chain into the holes in the flap and superglue the
chain to the back of the car to make the flaps curl up
a little like they are held in place.
PIC 52
PIC 53 Start the front end assembly now. Assemble the light pod and bezel panel and paint it
Black. The bezels are Silver. Install the lenses to the bezels and the bezels to the panel. Now install that
unit on the front of the car. The marker lights in the front lower grill are Silver on the back and installed in
place. The tag mount is Black with the tag cut to fit and glued on. The side markers are Black with Yellow
lenses and installed on the front of the fenders. The front fenders behind the tires and the rear fenders in
front of the tires have Black locks installed. The driver mirror is Black with a metal face and installed on the
fender. Assemble the photoetch wiper and install it in place. Add the antenna mast to the roof mount. The
photoetch gas caps are bent to shape and installed after painting White. The lock and hinge are installed
on them.
PIC 54 There are some unused parts and decals in this kit depending on how you chose to assemble it.
Here is my pile of parts!
999 OVERALL IMPRESSION: For what seemed like a simple kit this one has its challenges. Decals,
Photoetch, Tight fit parts and excess detail makes this a kit worthy of a higher Skill Level 5 for Advanced
Builders. Assembly is not overly difficult but requires time and patience. Fit and finish is generally quite nice
and the car builds without issue. The decals on the body are a real time consumer. It took me a few hours
to do them all as I had to stop periodically and let previously applied
decals dry in place. The lack of motor is of no importance as it never
even shows. The interior does show fairly well through the windows
and is equipped enough to look good. The body just takes time. I
would not recommend this one to a novice. The photoetch was not
bad to work with at all considering how small the parts were, Overall
this was a fairly cool build and makes a neat little car for the shelf. I do
rate this on a scale of 1 to 10 as a high 7 or low 8 due to the decals
and photoetch being more advanced than the skill level it is given.

Review 20141117 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

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