Housetraining Your Dog - A Definitive Guide

Revised Edition: 1.2
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Copyright © 2007 Dog Training Institute. All Rights Reserved.
Table of Contents
Welcome To Dog Ownership! ____________________________________________ 6
Basic Housetraining ___________________________________________________ 7
Chapter 1 - Getting Started With Your Dog _________________________________ 8
Before Bringing Your Dog Home _______________________________________ 8
Start Out Right _____________________________________________________ 9
Think About Your Home & Your Dog ____________________________________ 9
The First Few Hours At Home ________________________________________ 11
The First Night At Home_____________________________________________ 11
Establish A Routine ________________________________________________ 11
Chapter 2 – Housetraining Methods______________________________________ 13
Seven Pointers To Successful Housetraining ____________________________ 13
Outdoor Training, The Basic Method ___________________________________ 14
Advantages Of The Outdoor Method ___________________________________ 16
Disadvantages Of The Outdoor Method: ________________________________ 17
Housetraining On Leash _____________________________________________ 17
Paper Training _____________________________________________________ 18
Tips For Paper Training _____________________________________________ 20
Advantages & Uses Of Paper Training _________________________________ 20
Disadvantages To Paper Training _____________________________________ 20
Wee Pads Instead Of Paper___________________________________________ 21
Puppy Training Pads _______________________________________________ 22
Adult Dog Training Pads ____________________________________________ 22
Replacement Pads _________________________________________________ 23
Diaper Training_____________________________________________________ 23
Puppy & Senior Dog Diapers _________________________________________ 23
Litter Box Training __________________________________________________ 25
Advantages & Uses Of Litter Box Training: ______________________________ 26
Disadvantages To Litter Box Training: __________________________________ 27
Litter Box Training For Adult Dogs ____________________________________ 27
Crate Training______________________________________________________ 28
Choosing A Crate __________________________________________________ 29
Introducing Your Dog To The Crate ____________________________________ 30
Overcoming Crate Resistance ________________________________________ 31
Teaching Your Dog to Stay in the Crate_________________________________ 32
Preparing To Leave Your Dog In The Crate______________________________ 33
Using The Crate For Sleeping At Night _________________________________ 33
Tips For Crate Training: _____________________________________________ 34
Advantages & Uses Of Crate Training: _________________________________ 35
Disadvantages Of Crate Training: _____________________________________ 35
Clicker Training ____________________________________________________ 36
Indoor Housetraining________________________________________________ 36
Training To Eliminate On Command ___________________________________ 38
2
Housebreaking Commands___________________________________________ 38
Positive Commands ________________________________________________ 39
Positive Reinforcement _____________________________________________ 39
Housetraining Schedule By Age_______________________________________ 40
Chapter 3 - Knowing Your Dog’s Signals _________________________________ 43
Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language ______________________________ 43
Using A Bell ______________________________________________________ 43
Teaching Your Dog To Bark__________________________________________ 44
Tips & Hints To Housetraining Your Dog ________________________________ 44
Chapter 4 - Accidents While Housetraining Your Dog _______________________ 46
Accident Or On Purpose? ____________________________________________ 46
What To Do About It?_______________________________________________ 46
How To Clean Up __________________________________________________ 47
To Punish Or Not To Punish _________________________________________ 47
Preventions Of Repeat Accidents _______________________________________ 48
Chapter 5 - Special Situations In Housetraining ____________________________ 49
Owners Work All Day _______________________________________________ 49
Submissive Urination _______________________________________________ 50
Excitement Urination _______________________________________________ 52
Marking _________________________________________________________ 53
Separation Anxiety _________________________________________________ 55
Soiling The Crate __________________________________________________ 57
Chapter 6 - Class By Class & Breed By Breed _____________________________ 59
About Fences _____________________________________________________ 59
Scent Hounds ______________________________________________________ 60
Sight Hounds ______________________________________________________ 60
Pointers & Setters __________________________________________________ 61
Terriers ___________________________________________________________ 61
Retrievers _________________________________________________________ 62
Late Maturers _____________________________________________________ 62
Toy Breeds ________________________________________________________ 62
Specific Breeds Of Interest For Housetraining ___________________________ 63
Affenpinscher _____________________________________________________ 63
Afghan Hound ____________________________________________________ 63
American Bloodhound ______________________________________________ 63
American Blue Gascon Hound ________________________________________ 64
American Foxhound ________________________________________________ 64
Basenji __________________________________________________________ 64
Basset Hound_____________________________________________________ 64
Beagle __________________________________________________________ 64
Black & Tan Coonhound ____________________________________________ 64
Bloodhound ______________________________________________________ 64
Border Collie _____________________________________________________ 65
Border Terrier _____________________________________________________ 65
Borzoi ___________________________________________________________ 65
Bulldog __________________________________________________________ 65
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Bull Terrier _______________________________________________________ 65
Cairn Terrier ______________________________________________________ 66
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel ________________________________________ 66
Chihuahua _______________________________________________________ 66
Chinese Crested __________________________________________________ 67
Chinese Shar-Pei __________________________________________________ 67
Dachshund _______________________________________________________ 67
Dalmatian ________________________________________________________ 67
English Foxhound _________________________________________________ 68
English Toy Spaniel ________________________________________________ 68
Finnish Spitz______________________________________________________ 68
French Bulldog ____________________________________________________ 68
German Short-haired Pointer _________________________________________ 68
German Wirehaired Pointer __________________________________________ 68
Glen of Imaal Terrier _______________________________________________ 69
Gordon Setter_____________________________________________________ 69
Greyhound _______________________________________________________ 69
Harrier __________________________________________________________ 69
Ibizan Hound _____________________________________________________ 69
Irish Setter _______________________________________________________ 69
Irish Terrier_______________________________________________________ 70
Irish Wolfhound ___________________________________________________ 70
Italian Greyhound __________________________________________________ 70
Lhasa Apso ______________________________________________________ 71
Norwegian Elkhound _______________________________________________ 71
Otterhound _______________________________________________________ 71
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen _________________________________________ 71
Pharoah Hound ___________________________________________________ 71
Plott ____________________________________________________________ 71
Pointer __________________________________________________________ 71
Redbone Coonhound _______________________________________________ 71
Rhodesian Ridgeback ______________________________________________ 71
Rottweiler ________________________________________________________ 72
Saluki ___________________________________________________________ 72
Scottish Deerhound ________________________________________________ 72
Shih Tzu _________________________________________________________ 72
Siberian Husky ____________________________________________________ 72
Skye Terrier ______________________________________________________ 73
Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier _________________________________________ 73
Spinone Italiano ___________________________________________________ 73
Standard Schnauzer _______________________________________________ 73
Tibetan Mastiff ____________________________________________________ 73
Tibetan Spaniel ___________________________________________________ 74
Weimaraner ______________________________________________________ 74
West Highland White Terrier _________________________________________ 74
Whippet _________________________________________________________ 74
Yorkshire Terrier __________________________________________________ 74
Chapter 7 - Health-Related Problems_____________________________________ 75
Congenital Problems ________________________________________________ 75
Ectopic Ureters____________________________________________________ 75
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia ____________________________________________ 75
4
Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence ____________________________ 76
Patent Urachus ___________________________________________________ 76
Urethral Diverticulum _______________________________________________ 76
Diseases and Medical Problems_______________________________________ 77
Bladder Stones____________________________________________________ 77
Bloat ____________________________________________________________ 77
Cushing’s Syndrome _______________________________________________ 78
Diabetes _________________________________________________________ 78
Nerve Injury Or Trauma _____________________________________________ 79
Spaying Incontinence_______________________________________________ 79
Tumor ___________________________________________________________ 79
Urethral Obstruction ________________________________________________ 80
Urethral Prolapse __________________________________________________ 80
Urinary Tract Infection ______________________________________________ 80
Medication Related Problems _________________________________________ 81
Old-Age Problems __________________________________________________ 82
Dribbling Urine ____________________________________________________ 83
Unable To Urinate _________________________________________________ 83
Kidney Failure ____________________________________________________ 83
Glossary _________________________________________________________ 84
Learning About Your Dog____________________________________________ 86
Various Helpful Pet Web Sites ________________________________________ 93
5
Welcome To Dog Ownership!
Dear Reader,
This may be your first dog or your twenty-first dog, but it doesn’t matter – you still have
to housetrain him and no two dogs are the same when it comes to housetraining. Even if
he is the same breed as all the other dogs you’ve had, he will have his own personality
quirks. And that may be the reason you are reading this book.
If this is your first dog (or puppy), you – and your dog - have lots to learn, but don’t be
alarmed. Neither of you can learn it all at once. Take it a step at a time and enjoy each
other throughout the process.
Some breeds are easy to housetrain as they don’t like for their living quarters to be
messy or smelly or they really like to please their owners. Other breeds are more difficult
to housetrain. Others may take a special type of training. However, with patience and
persistence, nearly every dog can be housetrained.
It is important to learn as much about the breed of your dog as you can. Talk to other
owners, veterinarians, breeders, etc. and read books about the breed. If your dog is a
mixture of breeds, learn about all the breeds you can identify in your dog.
Usually the traits that make a dog easy or hard to train are related to the breed. By
talking to a variety of people who have worked with that breed, you can learn tips and
pointers – and tricks – to help you with housetraining, obedience training, car training, or
whatever you desire to train your dog.
It is always easier to ESTABLISH GOOD habits from the beginning than it is to BREAK
BAD habits later. If you have a puppy, this book will help you start your puppy with good
habits. However, if you have an adult dog who has established some bad habits, you are
to be commended for being brave enough to give him a good home and the love he
deserves and you will find many helpful ideas in this book as you seek to help him be the
good dog he should be.
Just a note: You may have gotten a puppy or you may have gotten a dog from a shelter,
but whatever dog you have will be referred to as he, him, her, she, your dog, your friend,
or your companion in this book. Also, this book assumes the dog will spend the majority
of his time in your home and that is why you are “housetraining” him. If he is going to be
an “outdoor dog” then housetraining will be much harder to accomplish as it will not be
habitual for him.
6
Basic Housetraining
What Is Housetraining?
Housetraining refers mainly to training your dog to potty (pee and poop) in an
appropriate place at an appropriate time. It assumes that house manners will include
pottying outdoors, on paper, or in a litter box, whichever method you have taught your
dog. If you read older literature on housetraining, the term you may see is
housebreaking which meant to break the dog of pottying in the house.
The information in this e-book applies to a puppy or an older dog. If a puppy stays with
her mother until the age of 8 weeks, she will learn a lot about cleanliness and will come
to your home happy and well adjusted and ready to want to please you.
If you have a new puppy, you can establish good habits from the beginning. If you are
re-homing a dog, start out as if he has never been housetrained and follow the
appropriate schedule. If he was well housetrained previously, it won’t take him long to
apply what he knows.
However, if he was never housetrained or the previous owners got rid of him because he
continued to have problems, you will need to be very consistent and patient for several
months. Hang in there; it is worth it!
Start at the beginning since Chapter 1 discusses how to get started with your dog, the
steps to housetraining, daily schedules for housetraining dogs of various ages, and then
some tips and hints to housetraining.
Chapter 2 covers the pros and cons of outdoor housetraining and variations on
housetraining – paper training, wee pads training, diaper training, litter or box training. It
also discusses crate training because it applies to all the methods and is useful for
solving problems that may arise. The use of clicker training is also explained in this
chapter along with Indoor housetraining and training to eliminate on commands.
Chapter 3 stresses on the body language of your pet, learn how to teach your dog to
bark or use a bell before your dog wants to eliminate.
Chapter 4 helps you deal with your dog’s accidents. Since all dogs have accidents, you
will want to know how best to clean them up and prevent future accidents.
Chapter 5 will help you with special situations you may encounter whether it is a
situation dependent on you, the owner, like being at work all day (or longer) or it is a
situation created by your dog like submission urination, marking, and other problems.
If you still have some problems or, if later, your dog develops some problems, then
chapters 6-7 will be valuable.
Chapter 6 relates various breeds and problems associated with those breeds. This may
be helpful even if your dog is a mix of breeds.
Chapter 7 explains some health-related issues and how they relate to housetraining.
7
Chapter 1 - Getting Started With Your Dog
Before Bringing Your Dog Home
You are excited because you have found the “perfect dog” for you and now you are
bringing him/her home. Congratulations! And give yourself a pat on the back since you
are doing your homework by reading this! (Even if you are
already home with your new friend, it is still early in your
relationship, so good job.)
It is important that every member of your family (including
young children, children at college, and those that are in
and out on a fairly regular basis) knows, understands and
follows the “rules” for your dog.
They also need to know and follow all your established
routines with your dog. Consistency is a key to successful
housetraining.
If you already have your dog at home and have had him
there for several weeks, that’s okay. Read this section
anyway as there is things you can still initiate that will be very helpful.
If you haven’t picked up your new friend yet, there are some things you’ll want to take
with you:
An Old Bath Towel
You can put this on the car seat for the dog to sit on and use it to clean up any
accidents.
Collar & Leash
A nylon slip collar large enough to go over the dog’s head and a six-foot leash (leather or
nylon) or a retractable leash –
You need some way to control your dog and keep it close to you when it needs to go
potty or when it is walking to the car.
Nylon slip collars are safe and not overly harsh for all sizes of dogs and puppies. They
are very easy to use. All you do is drop the collar through the ring at one end of the
collar – this becomes the “live” ring. It is better to get a slip collar that is too large than
one that is snug or too small.
8
Travel Basics
If you will be traveling more than two hours to get home, a dog bowl and a bottle of water
will be helpful. If you will be traveling overnight with your new (or new-to-you) dog, you
will need a second dish and you will need to plan to purchase whatever food your dog
has been eating so that you can feed your dog.
You will need to stop every two hours and get your dog out of the car on his leash
attached to the slip collar and walk him around in the grass at a rest stop or park or
office park. He will need to stretch his legs and he may need to potty fairly often. This
should prevent, or at least limit, accidents in the car.
It will be best if you teach him to sit on the seat on the old towel rather than in your lap. If
you have a bench seat, he can have his towel next to you. That way, if you need to take
him to the veterinarian alone, he will not feel he has to sit in your lap. He will know from
the beginning that he can sit by himself and feel safe and secure.
If he is lonely or whimpering, you can put your hand on him. That will help him feel more
like he is with his siblings. Remember they would not pat him; they would just lie on or
next to him.
Start Out Right
Before you take the dog to your car, put the slip collar and leash on it and walk it around
in a grassy area so it has a chance to potty.
You might even start using his name and a cue word to mean “now is the time to go
potty” such as ‘business’, ‘potty,’ ‘hurry up,’ etc.
There is no generally accepted word for this, so as long as you use a word that does not
mean something else later in your dog’s training, any word you use will work. Simply say
the word firmly and let the dog find the right spot by sniffing.
If the dog does not do anything right away, move a few feet and repeat the word. If the
dog does not urinate or defecate in a few minutes, assume he does not need to do
anything right then.
Think About Your Home & Your Dog
You need to think about some things before you have your new dog at home. These will
have a bearing on how easy it is to housetrain your dog and how many accidents your
dog may have in the next few weeks. At the very least, they will affect how much work
you will have in cleaning up after your dog and how much sleep you will get.
Are there rooms the dog will never be allowed in?
Are there others you will not want the dog in until it is housetrained?
How will you keep him out of those rooms?
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What about gates? How about an exercise pen?
It is best to limit the dog to rooms where the floor is easily cleaned (like a kitchen,
bathroom or utility room with tile type of flooring) while it is awake for the first few days
until you understand how accident-prone it is. Some people ban their dogs from a formal
living room or an office where clients are entertained.
Where will the dog be sleeping?
Options include a bathroom or utility room or some other room with the door closed, in a
family member’s bedroom, in the family/living room, or in the garage.
Then there is the question of whether it will be sleeping in a crate, on the floor, in its own
bed, or on the bed you or a family member sleeps in.
Remember that if the dog is a puppy, it has only slept with its mother and siblings so it is
used to being surrounded by warm bodies and beating hearts.
Therefore, it will be happier and sleep better if that situation is simulated by a soft bed
and ticking alarm clock if it isn’t sleeping with you or a family member.
Where will the dog be eating and drinking?
He will be happier eating near the area where you either fix food or eat – preferably not
the dining room, but perhaps at one end of the kitchen or in a utility room next to the
kitchen.
Your life will be easier if his dishes are on a floor that is easy to clean. You might also
consider having him eat in a room close to the door he will be using to go outdoors to
potty.
By the way, his dishes should be ceramic or stainless steel. Straight-sided dishes will be
easier for him than bowl-shaped.
Where do you want your new dog to potty?
The ideal place is outdoors, but some people like to train a dog to use newspapers or a
litter box. You need to identify the EXACT 2-foot by 3-foot area (or 3-foot by 5-foot area
if your dog will be a large dog when fully grown) that you want your dog to use as his
POTTY PLACE. This will be referred to as his ‘potty place’ throughout this book.
If it is a cold and snowy winter when you get your dog, you may need to train him to
newspapers until the weather is better and he can go out. If you live in an apartment or
condominium, simply letting him out will not work, so you will be walking him several
times a day. Each of these methods will be fully addressed in the pages that follow.
10
The First Few Hours At Home
When you get home with your dog, get him out of the car – on a leash – and walk him
around the yard. Let him sniff. Let him wet as often as he wants as he is marking his
territory.
However, if he marks flowers or bushes or wanders into areas where you do not want
him, jerk him back sharply about 6-8 inches and say “no” in a firm voice.
Do not let the dog step out of the boundaries of the yard. When he gets to the
boundaries, jerk him back and say “no, boundary.”
Start using a cue word or phrase to mean ‘go potty.’ When he does it, praise him.
After about 15 minutes, take him into the house, saying to him, “Let’s go into the house”
in a very happy voice. This will set the stage for his coming into the house any time you
say “house” to him.
This is the routine you will use with your dog every couple of hours during the day –
every day for the first 7-10 days. See Chapter 5 if this will be difficult for you to do.
At least once a day, also walk him around the yard within a couple of feet of the
boundaries and every time he starts to cross the boundary, say “no, boundary” and jerk
him back. This sets the stage for his not leaving the yard. With many breeds this is all
that will be needed, but there are breeds that this will not affect.
During the first month, DO NOT:
•
Let the dog out of the house by himself.
•
Take the dog outside of a fence without a slip collar and leash on him.
The First Night At Home
The first night you will need to take your dog out for one “last” walk just before you go to
bed. Establish him in his sleeping spot and set your alarm for no more than five hours. If
your dog is a young puppy, four hours would be best.
When the alarm goes off, get up and take your dog for another walk and then put him
back to bed. Do not play with him or talk to him about anything but pottying.
Repeat the process in four more hours. It may take a little while to get him settled down
and back to sleep, but he will soon learn to go to sleep when put to bed and to go potty if
he needs to when you walk him.
Establish A Routine
The most important thing for your dog in learning anything you want him to learn is
establishing a routine and being consistent in your expectations of your dog. The next
11
pages will show you how to establish that routine and give you specific how-to
instructions on housetraining.
Whether your dog is a tiny 4-week-old puppy or a rescued dog that has been abused, a
routine will help to put her at ease and know what to expect.
Along with a routine, remember to be calm and patient. Everything is new to your dog.
Shouting or screaming or exhibiting anger will only make your problems worse, so take a
deep breath and…start over.
When there are accidents, make the assumption that it is more your fault than your dog’s
fault. If you watch your dog closely, you will be able to tell when she needs to go to her
potty place. She will show a posture of going potty or she will sniff or dig lightly or circle
or run to the door and back to you. If you do not respond to those things by getting her to
her potty place, then you will have an “accident” to clean up.
The easy way to look at the routine you need to establish is that any time there is a
break during the day or a change of direction in your dog’s day, take the dog to his potty
place.
The five keys to your success are:
•
When doggie gets up, take him to the potty place.
•
Feed doggie on a regular schedule which will eventually be twice a day, about
10-12 hours apart. After doggie eats or drinks anything, take him to the potty
place.
•
After doggie plays or exercises, take him to the potty place.
•
Withhold water for two to four hours before doggie goes to bed.
•
Just prior to going to bed, take him to the potty place.
A more detailed schedule will be shown for various ages of dogs in the following pages.
There will also be suggestions for variations.
12
Chapter 2 – Housetraining Methods
All dogs need to be housetrained – and, basically, all dogs can be housetrained. If you
get a very young puppy, you may have to wait a few weeks before his body allows
complete housetraining. If you get a previously abused or neglected dog, it may take a
while for him to fully understand what is expected of him.
There are three primary methods of housetraining:
•
The Outdoor Method often referred to as the basic direct method,
•
The Paper Method, and the
•
Litter Box Method.
Each method refers to where the dog potties (not how you train him since that is fairly
uniform).
Some people refer to the crate method; however, the crate is used as a holding or
restraining mechanism, not a place for pottying or for punishment. Therefore, the
crate can be used with any of the three methods.
Some people use another method, the clicker method. Here again, it is a variation to use
along with the three methods. In the clicker method, instead of a word or phrase to tell
the dog to ‘go potty’ and a word of praise after he potties, a clicker and a treat are used
to positively reinforce his correct behavior.
The next page is one of the most important pages you will read. Refer to it often during
the housetraining process. If necessary, print it and post it where you will see it often.
Seven Pointers To Successful Housetraining
Establish a Potty Place. Decide exactly where you want your dog to potty. It can be a
corner of your yard or it can be an area of grass (or cement or blacktop) that you choose
at your apartment or condo complex. Always walk your dog to that place. If you will
eventually be “letting him out” to go potty, make sure your yard is safely fenced – some
breeds need a 6-foot secure fence.
Choose a cue word, which will mean ‘go to the potty now’ to both you and your
dog. Various words or short phrases include ‘business,’ ‘do it,’ ‘potty,’ ‘hurry up’ or some
other word or words that are not used in other parts of training. (See the Glossary.)
Always say this when you want your dog to potty. Once the dog is housetrained, he will
usually tell you when he needs to potty rather than you telling him when to potty.
Live by a schedule until the dog is housetrained. Create a schedule according to
your dog’s age and your family’s schedules. By scheduling feeding and exercise as well
13
as potty breaks, you will help your dog know what to expect and learn to be able to potty
only when you can take him out or let him out to do so. Use this routine every single day
without variation.
Be persistent and patient. Not all dogs learn housetraining in a week. In fact, many
take several weeks. So keep working with your dog. The effort is well worthwhile. Be
consistent; don’t “relax” the expectations or routine.
Be thorough with cleaning up. If you don’t quickly and adequately clean up places
where your dog has had an accident, he will go back to those spots again. It is best to
clean up without your dog watching.
Praise your dog every time he does the right thing in the right place. Quietly but
enthusiastically praise your dog each time he potties in the right place at the right time.
Positive training (reinforcement) is much more effective with dogs than punishment.
Train your dog to use a signal to let you know he needs to go potty. That signal can
be a bell he can ring (hung from the doorknob) or can be a way he sits in front of you or
looks at you. Some authors recommend clicker training, but that puts you (the
owner/trainer) in charge of when the dog potties and does not allow him to tell you when
he needs to potty.
Outdoor Training, The Basic Method
The ideal housetraining method is the outdoor method. That means that the dog does
his entire pottying outdoors – from the beginning. It is
also referred to as the direct method of housetraining.
Anyone anywhere can use the outdoor method.
Theoretically, anywhere the dog poops, the poop should
be picked up – whether it is a designated area of your
fenced back yard or in the grass (on cement or
pavement) of your apartment or condo complex. While
dogs prefer to potty on grass when they are outdoors,
they can be trained to potty on various types of
pavement or on gravel or bare dirt instead.
Once your dog is outdoor method housetrained, he will
have virtually no accidents. However, with paper training
and box training, there will always be a danger of
accidents when the dog is given run of the house and sees paper (or a box) and feels a
need to relieve himself.
The outdoor method does not cost anything, but the paper method and litter box method
may cause you to pay for paper (if you don’t use newspaper) or litter. If you choose the
14
outdoor method, be aware you need to pick up the poop. It is simple. You can use a
pooper-scooper if you like. There are several styles available at pet stores.
There are biodegradable plastic bags that are made for this purpose. Many apartment
and condo complexes provide them for their pet owners. They are available for purchase
at any pet store.
However, if they are not provided to you, you can use any plastic shopping bag (like
those used by grocery stores or super-stores) or a plastic sandwich or quart-sized bag
(preferable without the zipper).
Simply put your hand in the bag and pick up the poop. Then take your other hand and
pull the open end of the bag down your arm and hand, enclosing the poop. You can then
carry the bag by the open end to a dumpster or trashcan. Your hands will never touch
the poop.
If you have a large dog that excretes large amounts of feces, you may need two bags.
You can put these in a pocket or you can get small carriers that attach to the dog’s
leash.
Even if your dog poops in your own yard, you will probably want to pick it up. It can
overwhelm and damage the grass. It can smell bad. You or your family could step in it. If
you have children, they might play in it. Your dog or some other animal might eat it,
which would not be good.
If you ever desire to take your dog in the car with you, the outdoor method is far more
convenient. It is nearly impossible to use the paper method or the litter box method when
you are on the road.
If you leave your dog with a dog sitter or at a boarding service, they are most familiar
with the outdoor method and normally much prefer dogs that have been trained in that
way.
Since dogs are often in a crate or pen all the time except during the “walk” it is often
frustrating and more time consuming for the dog caregivers to work with a dog that has
been paper or litter box trained.
And a paper trained dog will spend hours with no place to go but to sit on the soaked
and/or dirtied papers on the bottom of the crate. That will give him sores and make him
dirty and smelly.
It may also be very degrading to the dog as many breeds of dogs are fastidious about
cleanliness and do not want to eat or drink anywhere near where they have pottied.
•
When it is time to ‘go potty,’ put the slip collar and leash on your dog and walk
him around the yard. Start him on the leash even if your yard is fenced. That
gives you control over where he potties and whether or not he goes into
flowerbeds.
•
Take him outside to whatever area you have designated his “potty place.”
•
Use whatever word or phrase you have decided will mean ‘go potty now.’
15
•
Let him sniff. Let him wet as often as he wants. However, if he marks flowers or
bushes or wanders into areas where you do not want him, jerk him back sharply
about 6-8 inches and say “no” in a firm voice.
Do not let the dog step out of the boundaries of the yard. When he gets to the
boundaries, jerk him back and say “no, boundary.”
•
When he finishes pottying – either urinates (pees) or defecates (poops) – praise
him in a very upbeat voice. Say something like: “Good girl” or “good job, Joey.”
Look directly at the dog (in his eyes if possible) when you say it. You may rub his
head or under his chin if you want, but do not roughhouse with him.
•
After he potties (or, if he doesn’t potty, wait about 15 minutes) it is time to take
him into the house, saying to him, “Let’s go into the house” in a very happy voice.
This will set the stage for his coming into the house any time you say “house” to
him and will be invaluable.
This is the routine you will use with your dog every couple of hours during the day –
every day for the first 7-10 days. See Chapter 5 if this will be difficult for you to do.
During the first week, DO NOT:
•
Let the dog out of the house by himself.
•
Take the dog outside of a fence without a slip collar and leash on him.
After the first week or two (as long as your dog is over three months old), you can begin
to stretch the time between “taking your dog out” by fifteen minutes every 3-5 days. By
the end of the first month, your dog should be able to wait 4 hours between potty times.
Advantages Of The Outdoor Method
•
Your dog is fully housetrained.
•
Your dog will not have accidents in the house unless there is an issue or problem
that needs to be solved.
•
Your dog can be taken anywhere and will behave in terms of housetraining.
•
Your dog can be boarded at any vet or kennel or kept by a friend or relative
without worrying about whether the dog will be sick or dirty when you return.
•
Your dog’s stay at a boarding kennel, vet, or friend/relative’s home will be
welcome and not dreaded.
•
Your dog will be able to tell you when he needs to potty.
•
Your dog will not want to soil his home – which is also your home.
16
•
Getting ready to leave your dog will be quick, easy, and painless since he will
potty on command.
Disadvantages Of The Outdoor Method:
•
Your dog will NOT go potty anywhere but outdoors.
•
If you move to a condo, apartment, or assisted living facility, you will have to walk
your dog or have someone walk him for you.
•
Your dog may insist, “he has to go potty” to get your attention when he thinks you
are spending too much time on the telephone or with another person or pet.
Housetraining On Leash
The only way to achieve effective housetraining is by ensuring that you maintain full
control over when and where your dog does its business. One way to do this is through
leash bonding.
Housebreaking through leash is best if you intend to train
your to eliminate outdoors. Before you walk your dog it is
important that it is calm so give it a sit-stay command
before putting on their leash.
During the day while you're going about your normal
routine, you put a leash on your dog and attach the other
end to your belt. Don't make fuss about it. Just be casual
and follow your usual routine — with your dog attached!
Using the leash bonding is also a good way to get your
dog to bond with you. It learns that being with you is the
best place to be!
Be conscious of times when it is likely that your dog will have to go:
•
When it wakes up in the morning
•
10-15 minutes after every meal or drink
•
After your pup wakes from a nap
•
After rigorous play or exercise
•
Few hours after the last backyard or park tour
•
Just before going to bed at night
17
Pretty soon your pup will get used to the routine and its regular schedule will fall into
place.
Follow your dog's body language. Whenever you see it sniffing the ground or circling
round and round take it outdoors. Use commands like 'do it'. Praise your dog right after it
has done its deed.
If your dog starts to run towards the door right after you put finish putting the leash on
simply do a quick jerk with the leash and immediately release the leash to give it some
slack, give a stop command then give a sit-stay command and then praise it when it is
sitting. After a few minutes take your dog outside for a walk.
Soon, you should be able to give your dog the command and it will respond. This is a
handy thing to train — especially when you are out somewhere and want it to do it at a
specific time.
Continue to keep it leashed to you for the first 3-5 days when in the house. That way you
have complete control over where it goes and when it might decide to go indoors.
It is important that the dog doesn't lead you or pull on the leash when you are walking it.
During the first few times simply walk your dog around the house or in the backyard
where it is familiar with the surroundings.
If if pulls forward on the leash give a stay where you are, give a quick jerk with the leash
and immediately release the leash to give it some slack and issue the stop command.
You may have to repeat this several times before your dog stops. Then give a sit-stay
command and then praise it when it is sitting and praise it for its good action of sitting,
wait several seconds then continue with the walk.
After your dog understands that you are doing the leading when you are walking it, you
can bring it out into the real world for a walk and if your pet still tries to pull ahead just
repeat the process above with the jerking of the leash. When it is doing a good job it is
important that you give your dog praises and encouragement.
Paper Training
Only very small (toy) breed dogs or puppies younger than six months should be papertrained. Many breeds are not suited for paper training, so if you are thinking of using this
method, find out as much as you can about that breed of dog and if it is appropriate.
This method can be used as a temporary method if the weather is bad. Medium or large
dogs have too much urine and too much odor to their urine to be able to soak it up by
papers. It would also make the papers too heavy and wet to fold up and put into the
trash.
Select a convenient place in your home as the dog’s papering area. The basement,
bathroom, or utility room is suitable. Do not select an area with a hardwood floor.
If you are using this method because your puppy is too young to have control or
because the weather is too nasty to take your dog outside, try to do it near the door you
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will be using to take your dog outside so that the transition is easier for your dog. Later
you can put the papers outside the door and then eliminate them slowly.
Start by spreading newspapers three to five sheets thick over the entire area (at least
two feet by three feet) you want the dog to use. If your dog is older than six months, you
may want a thicker pad of newspapers. If possible, start by news papering the entire
floor of the area.
Place one sheet of soiled paper under the fresh paper in the area of the floor the dog
favors. He will be drawn to that spot by the scent of the urine and will eliminate on it.
Leave the papers on the floor at all times, twenty-four hours a day. Change them after
each use. Throw away soiled papers in an outdoor trash bin as soon after they are
soiled as possible.
Watch your dog or puppy carefully (like a hawk) at all times. As soon as she starts to
potty (pee or poop), pick her up and quickly take her to the papered area.
If you have chosen a word or phrase meaning ‘go potty’ you can use it as you set her
down. Once she has pottied on the papers, praise her.
Clean up any area where she has pottied that is not on the papers. Use the appropriate
cleaning products so she does not smell anything that would cause her to potty there
again.
Use the appropriate schedule for housetraining, but use the papers as her “potty place”
and take her to them every couple of hours. Always praise her if she potties there.
On the sixth day, or whenever you realize the dog is using the same spot each time,
start decreasing the amount of area you cover with
papers. Decrease from the outside edge so that the
bare floor shows like a border. You may have to make
the pad of papers thicker to absorb all of the urine.
(Also, as your dog gets older and bigger, there will be
more urine each time she pees.)
For the next three to five days, gradually reduce the
papered area of the floor. Continue decreasing the area
that is papered until only the spot the dog has chosen to
use is papered. If he misses the paper, increase the
paper to cover the spot he is using.
The ink on the newspapers can come off and soil your
puppy’s feet. If that occurs, you may want to purchase
special papers for this purpose at a pet store. These are referred to as “training pads” or
“elimination pads” or “piddle pads” and are sold by a variety of companies. Some even
come with a special tray-type holder and under-tray. Most have a scent, which attracts
dogs to do their business.
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Tips For Paper Training
•
Do not try to train your dog to potty outdoors and indoors at the same time.
•
Do not feed or play with your dog near the indoor place where she is supposed to
potty.
•
Be consistent in your expectations and in the words and body language and tone
of voice you use with your dog.
•
Be patient – indoor housetraining takes longer than outdoor.
Advantages & Uses Of Paper Training
•
If you get a puppy during a very cold or very snowy or icy winter, you may need
to paper train in the beginning and then re-train to outdoors when the weather is
better.
•
If the owner of the dog is elderly, handicapped or has no access to outdoor
walking areas and the dog is a toy breed, paper training can be used so that the
dog does not have to be walked.
Disadvantages To Paper Training
•
It is a mess to fold and dispose of urine-soaked papers.
•
It is inconvenient to dispose of urine-soaked papers immediately upon use each
time.
•
Your dog never learns to tell you when he has to potty since he simply potties.
•
Your house will always have the odor of dog urine.
•
Your dog will never be fully housetrained and may have accidents in other parts
of the house throughout his life.
•
You will not be happy with the way boarding kennels handle a paper trained dog.
Often your dog will sit in his pee and poop for hours, making him filthy, smelly,
and even sick. You will have to pay extra for a larger pen when you board your
dog.
For many dog owners, who teach their pet to eliminate indoors, using paper is
considered as an added hassle. Many complain that their dogs become too naught
during such times and instead of eliminating on the paper, they starts shredding or
digging on it. It becomes more of a fun game for them rather than a housetraining
session.
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The other alternatives to paper training are using wee pads, diapers, or litter boxes. Toys
dogs often continue to use these wee pads or litter boxes, all their lives.
However, always follow one particular method. If your puppy is trained to urinate and
defecate indoors, then stick to it. For example, if for one month you training it to
eliminate indoors and then suddenly one day you take your puppy outside and ask it to
'go potty' there, then it will only confuse your little pet.
Wee Pads Instead Of Paper
Wee pads are modern day alternatives to newspapers and litter boxes mostly for dogs
who are trained to eliminate indoors. In case you are planning to train your dog to
eliminate indoors, wee pads are a good option.
These pads are manufactured in such a way that you can permanently avoid poop and
pee stench and stains. Moreover, these pads are treated with natural attractants to help
draw pets to the pads.
Wee pads are also best for housetraining puppies, stay at home dogs, senior dogs,
disabled pet owners, or even for people who cannot avail the facility of taking their dog
to the backyard.
Many dog owners use newspapers instead of wee pads, but newspapers are easy to
shred can leave a stench mark on your floor and are difficult to dispose. For those who
have thick-carpeted floors, can opt for wee pads.
To train your dog to eliminate on wee pads, all you have to do is follow the
following steps below:
•
Buy a wee pad pack according to the size of your dog. Naturally, a big dog will
need a much larger wee pad than a toy dog.
•
Choose the corner of the house where you want your dog to eliminate every day.
Make sure the place is far away from where your pet eats or sleeps. Always use
that particular corner to place the wee pad.
•
Place the pad on the floor (plastic side down) and place your pup on top of it just
after every meal, drink, workouts, and before and after each nap.
•
After you place your dog on the wee pad you can use the commands like 'do it',
'go', 'go here', 'do it here' or whatever word or phrase you find convenient.
•
Remove the pad after the dog has done his deed.
•
In case your puppy tries to shred or dig the pad, just say 'No' in a stern voice.
This itself will be enough to startle it and stop it from what it was doing.
•
Good quality wee pads are tear and scratch resistant. They are easy to dispose
and will make your job of carrying soiled pads to the garbage hassle free.
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However, never train your puppy to eliminate on both paper and wee pads. This
confuses the dog.
It is always advisable to all dog owners who want to train their dogs on wee pads should
continue to do so for the rest of their dog's life.
For example, you live in an apartment building complex where there is nothing called
backyard and you train your dog to eliminate indoors on wee pads. Not even on
newspapers.
Then suddenly you move into a house that has a big fenced backyard and you expect
your wee pads-trained dog to go outdoor to eliminate itself, then be prepared to be
surprised. Your dog will start looking for an indoor potty place instead of actually going
outdoors, just because you have repeated trained it to do so before.
Scented wee pads are also available in the market today to do away with the stench, the
scents are mostly of natural grass and earth, to help the dog relate to Nature more. You
can even by deodorizer that acts as room fresheners.
Although hygienic, few dog owners consider wee pads as an added expense. But for
people who don't have time to take their dog outdoors or don't have such a facility, can
consider it as a better option.
Even when the dog owner is not at home, he or she can be content that his or her pet
will only eliminate itself on the wee pad at the corner of the room and not on the carpet,
floor, or rugs.
Types of wee pads available:
Puppy Training Pads
Smaller in size, these puppy housetraining pads are convenient for small puppies who
have developed a control over their bladders and bowels, but are still not fully
housebroken.
Place you puppy on the wee pad after each meal, drink, walk and play and softly
encourage your puppy to eliminate there. With time and regular training you will find your
puppy using the training pads itself without your encouragement.
Adult Dog Training Pads
Specially made for adult dogs, these pads are made for dogs undergoing housetraining
or are not fully housebroken. These pads have more absorbent capacity and are ideal
for adult dogs left at home with no place to go and eliminate.
22
Replacement Pads
These are basically dog diapers made for puppies that are yet to develop a control over
their bladders and bowels. These replacement pads are also ideal for adult dogs that
have somehow lost control over urinating or defecating, like, senior dogs, abused dogs
or even dogs having submissive or excitement urination.
Many replacement pads come with adjustable belts and also are available in different
sizes.
Diaper Training
Nowadays, urban dog owners are finding doggie diapers quite convenient for their pets.
Dog diapers not only provide proper sanitation but it is also the best solution for the
everyday trouble of most pet owners in washing out their dog’s waste and pee.
Dogs don’t know where is the right area to release their body wastes unless they are
properly trained. That’s why it is better that dog owners give pets the most proper
training.
Many dog owners think that their puppies look cute while wearing a diaper, especially, it
the dog is of a toy breed. If you are sensitive to stinking odor of dog's waste, or if you
have little children or senior citizens at home, then training your dog to wear diapers is
perhaps your best option.
Dog diapers are available in various sizes and shapes and come in various price ranges
to suit your budget. Whether you own a toy breed, a puppy or a giant dog, diaper is a
favorable bargain.
Remember that puppies do not have full control until they are about 10 weeks old. You
can always go for dog diapers like humans do for their babies.
Although, avoid making your dog wear diapers for long periods of time. Your dog may
develop infection owing to lack of air circulation on its body.
Puppy & Senior Dog Diapers
Also known as poochie pants, dog diaper is a fashionable and disposable absorbent
blanket designed for convenient collection and disposal of a pet dog's solid and fluid
waste, without having to see, touch or smell the waste.
Since puppies do not have any control over their bladder till they are 10 weeks old, you
can always use a diaper for your pet.
But do not make your dog wear the diaper at a stretch for a long time. This way you can
avoid infection owing to lack of air circulation.
Since dogs defecate 3 or 4 times a day and urinate 10-12 times a day (for puppies, this
is more frequent), diapers need to be changed at least 3 times a day.
23
The elastic side of the diaper protects against leakage and with non-sticky, adjustable
fasteners you can avoid pull in the hair. Diapers are available in different sizes suitable
for every dog breeds.
Dog Diapers Can Be Best For:
•
Small puppies who are yet to develop a control over their bladders and bowels
•
Dogs having excitement or submissive urination
•
Have somehow lost control over their urination
•
Dogs having seasonal flow
•
Senior dogs who with age lose their bladder control
•
Dogs who will be traveling long distance with their owners
•
Abused dogs with no bladder control
Avoid Direct Contact With Waste:
Unlike baby diapers, dog diapers are made in such a way that the wastes are deposited
in different pouches. This prevents the contact between the waste and anal or genital
region of the dog. Thus the diaper can be easily disposed off without even touching,
smelling or seeing the doggie waste.
Also, ends the unpleasant chore of picking up dog waste by hand with plastic bags or
pooper-scoopers outdoors or indoors.
Avoid Messy Accidents:
By making your dog wear a diaper indoors, you can avoid indoor accidental elimination.
This goes especially for dogs with housebreaking problems, senior dogs who have little
control over their bowels and puppies.
Two different types:
•
With one pouch made only for solid waste
•
With two pouches one for fluid waste and one for solid waste
Some diapers are fully disposable and others are reusable with disposable pouches.
Dog diapers are available in all pet stores and in different price range to suit your
budget.
24
Litter Box Training
Only very small (toy) breed dogs or puppies younger than six months should be litter box
trained. Medium or large dogs have large amounts of urine and feces, both of which are
very smelly. The amount of litter needed to soak it all up would be very heavy to put into
the trash. And the cost of the amount of litter needed per week would be prohibitive.
Use the appropriate schedule for housetraining, but use the litter box as her “potty place”
and take her to it every couple of hours. Always praise her if she potties there.
Select an appropriate place in your home for the dog’s litter box. The basement,
bathroom, or utility room is suitable. Do not select an area with a hardwood floor. If you
are using this method because your puppy is too young to have control or because the
weather is too nasty to take your dog outside, try to do it near the door you will be using
to take your dog outside so that the transition is easier for your dog.
Purchase A Litter Box.
You will want a large litter box. There are special dog litter boxes, but the least
expensive (and sturdiest) option is the largest size of cat litter box. If it has any type of lid
or top, remove it. Put some newspapers (2-3 sheets thick) on the floor where you will put
the litter box.
Do not put the litter box in a room with a hardwood floor. The litter box should be away
from his food and water dishes and away from his play area and toys. You will need to
decide what “litter” you will use.
There are several options:
Special Litter Made For Dogs
Second Nature® Dog Litter – It is pellets made from recycled newspapers and wood
pulp, making it absorbent and dust free. It controls odors and claims it does not track or
stain.
Shredded Newspaper
It is more difficult to get it to soak up urine after shredding it. You will have to purchase
shredder or purchase shredded paper.
Cat Litter
Clay litters such as Tidy Cat® - This or a generic of it is readily available at mass
merchandisers (Wal-Mart, Meijer, Target, etc.) and is relatively inexpensive. It is not
effective at controlling odor from dogs, it tracks very badly, and it is very dusty. It is not
biodegradable and must be taken to the trash. It is heavy when dry and very heavy when
wet.
25
Pine litters such as ExquisiCat® and Feline Pine® -- It is pelleted litter made from
compressed pine (no new trees cut). It claims no odor or dust and completely flushable
or reuseable on yard or garden. It degrades to sawdust when urinated upon (the
sawdust does track). It controls odor better than most litters. It is highly absorbent and
basically disintegrates when used. It is very lightweight.
This is an excellent alternative for elderly or apartment or high-rise dwellers. Be aware
that some dogs eat this and it probably is not very healthy in the digestive tract.
Elimination Pads
These are “training pads” or that are designed for indoor pottying. You can get a holder
and a tray to go under them. They already have a scent, which attracts your dog to do
her pottying on them. This is a variation on paper training and on litter box training.
These do not control odor very well and are heavy and smelly when wet.
A good way to start your litter training is to put several sheets of newspaper in the
bottom of the box and then put about two cups of litter on top of that. Each time the dog
uses the litter box, you will need to empty it and start over unless you are using pine
pellets which you may need to add. Throw away soiled papers and litter in an outdoor
trash bin.
Make sure that when you put fresh newspaper and litter in the box there is still the scent
of the dog’s urine/feces in the box. This can be accomplished with a small piece of
soaked paper from the “dirty” box.
You can begin to add more litter and decrease the newspaper in the bottom as your dog
uses the litter box more regularly. You will soon figure out how much paper and how
much litter is needed to completely absorb your dog’s urine. Remember that dogs do not
“cover” their feces; they leave the poop for all to see – and smell.
Watch your dog or puppy carefully (like a hawk) at all times. As soon as she starts to
potty (pee or poop), pick her up (or lead her) and quickly take her to the litter box. If you
have chosen a word or phrase meaning ‘go potty’ you can use it as you set her down.
Once she has pottied in the box, praise her.
Clean up any area where she has pottied that is not in the box. Use the appropriate
cleaning products so she does not smell anything that would cause her to potty there
again.
Advantages & Uses Of Litter Box Training:
•
If the owner of the dog is elderly and the dog is a toy breed, litter box training can
be used so that the dog does not have to be walked. This protects the owner
from dangerous falls. Try the pine pellets.
•
If the owner will be gone long hours and cannot have someone take the dog out
to a potty place, a litter box allows the dog to have a chance to relieve herself
during all those hours.
26
Disadvantages To Litter Box Training:
•
It is a mess to dispose of urine-soaked litter. It can be heavy and smelly.
•
It is inconvenient to dispose of urine-soaked litter immediately upon use each
time.
•
Your dog never learns to tell you when he has to potty since he simply potties.
•
Your house will always have the odor of dog urine and poop.
•
You will not be happy with the way boarding kennels handle a litter box trained
dog. Often your dog will sit in his pee and poop for hours, making him filthy,
smelly, and even sick. You will have to take his litter box and litter to the boarding
kennel and explain how he uses it.
You will also have to pay for a larger kennel (more cost) to accommodate the dog and
the litters box so that he does not have to sit in the litter box all the time.
•
Litter costs money.
DO NOT USE CLUMPING CAT LITTER IN A DOG LITTER BOX.
You will have a box full of “cement.”
Litter Box Training For Adult Dogs
I do not want to sound daunting, but litter box training is not easy, more so for an adult
dog. But it is not impossible if you try. If you have an adult dog who has been trained to
go outside, it will require time, energy, patience and love. Give him enough space and
pampering so that he can get adjusted to litter training.
Dogs are real neat creatures. They do not bury their excreta or look for litter-like
surfaces. So some extensive training is required for getting him used to the litter tray,
just as any other substitute of going out to poop.
The easy way out is perhaps to crate-train your dog first. If you manage to teach the
negative, the positive would not be far away. A crate is like a small room. Dogs do not
litter the place where they sleep so if you keep them confined in a crate, chances are
they will not poop there.
To counter this, you may keep a litter box on the other side of the crate so that your dog
picks up the cue. He will soon know his pooping place. If your adult dog is uncomfortable
in confinement, use a large, open crate.
Sometimes older dogs that you have adopted from other places may not be
housetrained at all. Or the case may be such that they are overwhelmed in the new
environment by anxiety or excitement. You have to treat them like puppies.
27
If a dog has been a street dog, litter training may take considerable effort. Do be patient
and loving. Never forget to praise your dog for pooping in the right place. Remember
positive reinforcement can work wonders even if the dog is not so young.
Sometimes older dogs face housebreaking problems because of other health concerns.
So if none of the ways work for, do take him to the vet.
Crate Training
Crate training is not another method for housetraining. It can be used along with the
outdoor method or the paper training method or the litter (box) training method. Crate
training is your best ally in housetraining (or if you need to re-train).
Crate training is simply putting your dog into a crate at times when you cannot watch him
every second during housetraining, you leave home, you want him to sleep, you need
him to be or feel safe, you are traveling with him (even to the vet), or you need more
control over his behavior.
Crate training is important for dogs that will be left alone for periods of time or
who will be boarded at a place where they will be crated.
A crate is useful for restricting your new dog from access to various areas of the
house. This will be help in keeping him from soiling those parts of the house
while he is being housetrained. It will also keep him from chewing things he
should not chew until he gets past that stage of life.
Crates are useful for transporting a dog. Some people like to crate their dogs in
the car. Unless you purchase a seat for your dog, he will have to be crated to
travel by airplane – and travel as cargo.
When you have guests or stay in a motel or at a friend’s home with your dog, a
crate is useful in containing the dog and limiting his access to the other people
and to furniture and other items.
A crate is vital if you plan to show your dog. Even if that showing will be a 4-H
show, you and your child will not want to spend hours holding and walking your
dog while awaiting the dog’s turn to “show” and awaiting the results of that
showing.
The crate should be a safe place for your dog. Dogs live in dens in the wild, so
this will become his den. If it is approached properly and early in his life with you,
he will learn to go into it without balking and to stay in it until released without
protesting by digging or barking. Many dogs enjoy being in their crates. You do
not want your dog to potty in the crate, and if he sees it as his den, he will not
potty in it.
Crate training is never used as punishment or “time out.” It is always to be
viewed as a happy and safe place for your dog.
28
Crate training is an aid to housetraining any age dog no matter what his
background. The crate is a place he wants to be and is considered his den, so he
will not want to potty in his crate.
Choosing A Crate
There are several types of crates – wire, plastic, nylon fabric, and combination. Some
are collapsible and some simply come apart in two pieces. Which type of crate you
choose will depend on your preference, how you will be using it, and your dog’s
temperament.
If you want your dog to sleep most of the time he is in the crate, choose one that is all
plastic as they tend to be darker and not allow him to see very much except through the
door at the end.
If your dog is a real people-lover like a Golden Retriever, choose one that is all metal
with all the sides being wire and place the crate where he can see people coming and
going. If you have a small breed dog you will be taking in a crate often, you may prefer a
nylon crate with “window shades” that roll up like tent flaps.
If you will be carrying the crate often, choose one that is lighter in weight. Plastic crates
are always lightweight, but take more room to store. Metal and wire crates come in
various weights with heavier ones being sturdier. The lower the number of wire gage, the
thicker and stronger the wire, and the heavier the crate.
However, they usually fold fairly flat to store or transport and have a handle to be carried
like a suitcase. Make sure that the person who will be transporting the crate can lift and
carry it and load it into and unload it from the vehicle that will be transporting it.
What size crate should you buy?
Buy one that will be large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around when he is
fully grown. You can get a divider to put into it to make it smaller (especially applicable
for wire crates) while he is smaller if you want to do that.
Where should you buy your crate?
Look around – shop at all the pet stores and mass merchandisers in your area. Set the
appropriately sized crates on the floor of the store. Assemble them to see how easily
they assemble and disassemble. Collapse them. Carry them. Price them. If you already
have your dog, take your dog to the pet stores and see if there is one type he will go into
or not go into easily.
Then go to the web sites listed at the end of this ebook and look at the crates. How do
they compare to the ones you have seen? Just remember that if you purchase one
online, you will pay postage based on weight.
You can usually find out how much by putting the item in your ‘shopping cart’ and going
through the purchase process up to the point of putting in your payment information. At
29
that point, it may not be cost effective to purchase the crate online unless you cannot
find the same one in your local store.
Introducing Your Dog To The Crate
Be aware that crate training may take a day or it may take several weeks depending
upon your dog. In a few rare cases, dogs simply never crate train and will injure
themselves trying to escape.
Be calm, positive, and patient. Be consistent
with your dog.
Put the crate in a room where you and your
family spend time such as a family room. The
floors of crates are either slick – plastic or metal
– or wire.
Therefore, covering most of the floor with a
cheap rug with a rubberized or non-slip backing
(or a pad or dog bed) will help your dog’s footing and comfort in the crate.
Make sure it does not have much of a nap or any loops that can catch the dog’s toenail.
Such a rug can be easily washed in the washing machine and hung to dry (do not use a
dryer to fully dry it as the rubber backing will come apart).
If your dog has a blanket he likes, you may want to put it into the crate. You will also
want to put a favorite toy in the crate. A chew toy he likes is a good way to occupy your
dog in the crate.
Use the word “kennel” or “crate” to mean ‘go into the crate.’ Always say it in an upbeat,
happy voice such as “Tippy, crate.”
Before asking your dog to enter the crate, ALWAYS take him to his potty place,
use the cue word you’ve chosen to mean ‘go potty’ and give him ample time to
potty.
To get your dog into the crate, start by opening the door and securing it to stay open, or
taking it off the crate. Then try putting your dog’s favorite toy in the crate as you say the
word you’ve chosen to mean ‘go into the crate.’ If he goes into the crate to get his toy,
praise him happily – even if he comes right out with the toy.
If he refuses to go into the crate, encourage him with happy words like “go get it” or “get
your toy.” As he goes into the crate to get the toy, say whatever you’ve chosen to mean
‘go into the crate.’
Reach into the crate and get the toy for him if he still refuses and play with him with the
toy for a few minutes. Then put it just inside the door to the crate and tell him to get it.
If, after 2-3 tries, he refuses to enter the crate, try some favorite treats instead of the toy.
Another possibility is purchasing an appropriately sized Kong® toy and putting peanut
30
butter in it. Allow him to have it outside the crate a few times and, if he likes it, then put it
in the crate so he will go in and sit there to work on getting the peanut butter out of it.
If he won’t enter the crate with the treats or the Kong®, leave the treats or the Kong®
there and leave the door open. Go about your daily routine and let your dog stay with
you so he does not think the crate means you are leaving him. You do not want the crate
to cause him separation anxiety.
Often if the treats are in the crate and the door is open, he will get curious and go get a
treat (or the Kong®) when he thinks you are not looking. If you see him do it, praise him.
After he has gotten treats out of it a couple of times, place treats farther in the crate so
that he has to go at least halfway in the crate to get them.
Whether or not your dog enters the crate, you will want to work with his entering it 3-4
times a day for 10-15 minutes. If he goes in, praise him. For the first 3-4 days, do not
close the door; allow him to go in and out at will.
Overcoming Crate Resistance
If, after two weeks of this, your dog still will not enter the crate, there are a couple
of things you can try.
•
Move the crate to another room such as your bedroom or a room you go into but
do not allow him into as yet. INVITE him into the crate as a way of inviting him
into the room.
•
Try feeding your dog his meals near the crate for several days to dispel the idea
of it being scary. Then put the meal inside the crate for several days. Once he
eats his meal near the front of the crate, start moving it farther back until it is
finally at the back of the crate.
•
Find a friend who has a crate trained dog or a doggie daycare center. Ask if you
can bring your dog to watch another dog that is crate trained. Because dogs are
pack animals, your dog may enter a crate after seeing another dog enter it.
Or, he may enter to smell where the other dog has been. If the crate is large enough to
accommodate both dogs and the two dogs get along with each other, encourage them to
go into the crate together.
•
Your last resort is physically picking him up and putting him in the crate. If you
have to do this, make sure he has enough room to stand up and to turn around
and to lie down comfortably.
Praise him and make it sound like a game. Pet him and praise him while he is in the
crate. Give him a treat. Leave the door open and let him come out when he is ready.
If you get an adult dog that has never been crate trained, the process will be much
harder and longer, but the end result will be worthwhile.
For small dogs that do not want to be separated from you, getting to go in the car in the
crate may be a good incentive. For large dogs who do not want to be separated from
31
you, getting to go into a heretofore “forbidden” area of the house with you by being in the
crate may be an incentive.
Teaching Your Dog to Stay in the Crate
Once your dog is easily entering the crate on his own, it is time to start conditioning him
to stay in the crate. This is when a comfort toy, blanket, and/or chew toy (a hoof, pig’s
ear, rawhide chew or Nylabone® product) become important.
Warning: Nylabone® products are safe for any age dog or puppy. However, puppies
and young dogs should not be given hoofs (they could damage teeth and gums), pig’s
ears (the grease might make them sick), or rawhide chews (they could pull a tooth out).
One method of teaching your dog to stay in the crate is to feed your dog his meals near
the crate for several days to dispel the idea of it being scary. Then put the meal inside
the crate for several days. And, finally put it at the back of the crate.
After the dog has eaten in the crate for several days, start closing the door while he eats.
Open the door when he finishes. After doing this for a few days, start lengthening the
time the door stays closed after he eats by 5-10 minutes.
If you ever board your dog, he will be fed his meals in a crate or pen, so it is good for
him to eat meals in the crate before going to boarding the first time. That way it will not
be a scary, new experience for him.
Another method of teaching your dog to stay in the crate is to put his toy or treats in the
crate to get him to go into it and start closing the door to the crate for 10-15 minutes.
Praise him for staying. If he lies down and seems content, stay in the room, but don’t pay
him any particular attention.
If he is uneasy or paces or whines, reassure him in a calm and matter-of-fact voice; do
NOT let him out. If he becomes frantic or starts digging at the crate, tell him “no” in a
disapproving voice and then reassure him that he is okay and can get out soon.
The first couple of times you may have to talk to him most of the time he is in the closed
crate. However, start decreasing the amount of talking you do and simply let him know
you are near by walking past the crate.
Once he stays in the crate for 15 minutes at a time without fussing or being uneasy, start
lengthening the time he is in the crate. You can also start leaving the room for 2-5
minutes at a time. And, if that works, start lengthening the amount of time there is
nobody in the room with him.
If your dog starts to exhibit fearful or anxious behavior by whining, scratching, digging, or
barking, you will need to go back to the crate and tell him “no” in your best disapproving
voice. Do not use a harsh voice and do not do it loudly. Do not yell at him from another
room of the house.
Try to make eye contact with him when you say “no.” Then distract him by showing him
a treat or another toy he can have when he comes out of the crate. As soon as he quiets
down, release him from the crate and praise him.
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Give him the treat or toy you showed him. And don’t forget to take him to his potty place.
Never reward undesired behavior (whining, scratching, digging, or barking) by giving
your dog what he wants or he will only learn that that behavior works for him.
Preparing To Leave Your Dog In The Crate
Once your dog stays in the crate for 30 minutes or more and you can leave the room
during that time, you can start leaving the house and leaving him in the crate for short
periods of time. Vary the length of time you are gone. Do not leave every time you put
him in the crate or he will associate the crate with your leaving and become unhappy
with being crated.
As usual, each time you crate him, take him to his potty place first and take him to his
potty place when you release him from the crate.
Do not make a big deal out of leaving. Keep matter-of-fact and routine. Simply take him
potty, put him in the crate, finish getting ready to leave, and leave. Once you feel
comfortable with his being in the crate for an hour or more, you can crate him for up to
15-20 minutes prior to leaving.
When you return, do not invite him to get excited about your return and his release.
Again, be low key and routine. Simply say hello and praise him quietly (but happily) for
being good and staying in his crate. Release him and take him to his potty place. After
you have been home for a few minutes and he has pottied, you can play with him and
allow him to be with you.
If you crate a young puppy while you are at work, you will find that he will learn to control
his bladder and bowels earlier than if he is not crated and for longer periods than a
puppy that is not crated.
Using The Crate For Sleeping At Night
Many people like for their dog to sleep in a crate at night. If you want your dog to sleep in
a crate, start with it the first night if possible (or as soon as possible so he does not get
used to sleeping elsewhere).
The routine is the same as usual. Work with the appropriate schedule for when to put
your dog to bed in the crate.
Be low key and routine; do not get excited or angry or raise your voice to get him
into the crate.
•
Take him to his potty place.
•
Take him to the crate and say the word you’ve chosen for entering the crate.
Don’t forget to be upbeat and positive.
•
Use a treat to get him to go in if necessary.
•
Make sure he has a blanket or bed in his crate. An appropriate stuffed toy may
also give him a sibling-substitute for cuddling.
33
•
Do not cover his crate unless he fusses and whines and covering helps him
settle down and sleep.
•
He may prefer his crate to be in your bedroom where he can see you, especially
if he is young or is a dog you have “rescued”; however, you can slowly move it
farther from you over a period of time as he becomes more secure in knowing
you are not leaving him.
•
Listen for him to fuss to go potty during the night if he is young – or set your
alarm for 4-5 hours to take him out so he does not have an accident in the crate.
If he does fuss or whine, simply take him to his potty place and then put him back
in the crate – do not make over him, give him treats, cuddle him, or otherwise let
him think that fussing or whining is rewarded.
•
When you get up in the morning, release him from the crate and take him to his
potty place.
•
•
•
•
CAUTION
Puppies should not spend more than 2 hours at a time in a crate.
Make sure your dog is getting plenty of exercise and time out of the crate.
Do NOT crate him all day while you are at work AND all night.
Dogs should never be in a crate more than 8-10 hours of any 24 hours.
Tips For Crate Training:
•
The crate is a POSITIVE, happy, safe place. Keep it that way.
•
Always take your dog to his potty place before asking him to enter the crate.
•
Always take your dog to his potty place immediately when he comes out of the
crate.
•
Always praise your dog for entering the crate.
•
When first training your dog to the crate, do not put food (meals) or water in the
crate.
•
Your dog can be given a treat to go into the crate, but be consistent and always
give the treat. If you quit giving the treat, then you do not need to randomly give
the treat unless he begins to balk at going into the crate.
•
Never reward whining, digging, scratching or barking with praise or with releasing
your dog from the crate.
•
No dog should spend more than 10 hours of any 24-hour period in a crate. If you
crate your dog for the night, then do not crate him while you are at work for 8-10
hours and vice versa, if you crate him while you are at work, then do not crate
him at night.
He must have time and place to move around. You need to be careful that he does not
feel trapped and that he gets enough exercise and adequate time with you.
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•
If your dog is really upset with the crate and works really hard at digging out, he can
seriously injure himself. If he does this, you will have to start crate training all over,
staying with him every time you crate him until he is fully settled and relaxed in the
crate.
There are some dogs that cannot be crate trained. If that is true of your dog and you
truly need to contain him, try “shutting” him in a room like a bathroom with a gate across
the door. He has a high need to be able to see you or hear you at all times.
Don’t forget to give him a couple of favorite toys and his blanket or bed. Train him to this
room in the same way you would to a crate – a few minutes at a time with you nearby for
several days. Gradually lengthen the amount of time. Add a favorite chew toy and leave
that part of the house for a few minutes at a time.
Advantages & Uses Of Crate Training:
•
Your dog will feel safe in his crate ‘den.’
•
You can have a break from constantly watching your dog while housetraining.
•
You can safely leave your dog – at home, at a boarding kennel, at the vet,
etc.
•
You can safely take your dog with you – any place.
•
You can have guests who are afraid of or allergic to your dog (or simply not
used to a dog).
•
Young puppies crate train easily and can be taught to control their bladder
and bowels for longer periods at an earlier age if they are crate trained.
•
A dog who has been adopted at an older-than-puppy age may have any one
of a variety of problems which can be helped or solved with the use of crate
training.
Disadvantages Of Crate Training:
•
Your dog will run to the crate for protection and safety if he thinks he is in
trouble.
•
Your dog may want his crate available at all times which may not be the way
you had envisioned using it.
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Clicker Training
If you’ve never heard of clicker training, it is a fairly popular method of training dogs and
even young puppies using a clicker and small treats. With this method, a puppy as
young as six weeks can be housetrained or obedience trained to sit, heel, and come. It
is also a great method for teaching your dog not to jump on people. It is fun for both the
dog and the trainer since it more like a game than training.
Examples Of Clickers
Start by putting the clicker and a small bag of treats near the door you will go out to go to
the dog’s potty place (or near the potty place if it is indoors).
Take your dog to his potty place at a time he is likely to need to potty – after waking,
eating or drinking, or exercising – and wait for the dog to go potty. When clicker training,
do NOT use a word or phrase to tell him to go potty. Simply give him time in the right
location to do it.
As your dog finishes his pottying, click the clicker and give him a treat. Also give verbal
praise – after the click - as with any other method. The clicker marks the correct
behavior and the praise and treat reinforce the right behavior so he wants to do it again.
If you do not use food treats, it will slow the process.
After 25-50 correct clicks, your dog should begin to let you know when he needs to go
potty. Be aware of his body language and posture so that you know when he needs to
go potty.
Do not click too soon (while he is pottying) or you may startle or excite him, causing him
to quit pottying to get the treat.
If you catch him in the act of pottying in the wrong place, do not click or treat. Quickly
startle him, say “no” and take him to his potty place. The message is: “Potty in the right
place and get great treats, but potty in the wrong place and get no treats.”
Indoor Housetraining
Taking their dogs outdoors to eliminate is not always feasible for many urban pet dog
owners. Especially for senior citizens, disabled people, or people who live in high-rise
apartment buildings, having a backyard or park to take their dog out is a convenience
they had to give up to live in the city. Sometimes, people who are not in control of their
schedule may fail to take their dogs for the evening walk.
Whatever may be the reason, in such circumstances teaching your dog to eliminate
indoors may be the only option your can give your dog.
Indoor training requires you to teach your dog or puppy to eliminate in a particular
location inside your home.
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Fortunately, most indoor dogs can be housetrained fairly easily, especially if you start at
an early stage. Indoor training requires the same dedication and training time as outdoor
housetraining. However, the only difference is that you will be placing your pet on litter
box, training pads or newspaper instead of taking it outdoors in the backyard.
Mark The Area
Your first step while teaching your puppy or dog is to select a corner inside your home
where your dog will eliminate everyday. Make sure this corner is away from the places
where your dog eat or sleeps. Also, keep in mind that the place should be easy to clean
as well.
Keep The Location Fixed
The location should always remain the same. At first, cover a larger area than is actually
needed - about three to four square feet - with training pads. As the training sessions will
progress, you can reduce the area size accordingly.
Make A Proper Routine
After every meal, drink, nap and work out sessions take your puppy to the marked area.
Let it relate. With the passing of time, your puppy will be able to understand that going to
that corner of the room means your puppy need to poop or pee. If your dog looks
agitated or starts circling or sniffing the floor, take it to its 'poop-zone'. Remember that
puppies do not have full control until they are about 10 weeks old.
Use Cue Words
Praising your dog verbally or using verbal commands like 'do it', 'do here' 'get on the
paper', 'go' or whatever you think will be appropriate, will always encourage your dog to
eliminate in that 'poop-zone' place.
Use Positive Reinforcement
In case your dog tries to go out of the corner, tries to dig or even shred the paper, just
use a firm voice to correct it. A simple 'No' spoken in a stern voice is enough to startle
the dog. Never ever use a hand or scold your dog. With positive reinforcement and a
strict schedule, it will soon be walking to its area on its own.
It is important that your dog or puppy associates the potty with the act of
elimination, and not an act of misbehavior. Always leave a small amount of urinescented paper towel on the tray until the training is complete.
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Indoor Housetraining Hassles
Patience and consistency are the key words here. Pet owners who attempt indoor
housetraining should be aware of some potential problems. Indoor training takes longer
than outdoor training. Your puppy might even resist during the first few sessions and
may not be able to be trained to go indoors.
This is pretty normal. You will have to keep on trying. And once your dog learns to go
indoor, it can be difficult to train them to go outdoors in the future. That's why, don't try to
housetrain your puppy both inside and outside - it can be too confusing for your pet.
Tools Needed
No-leak pads are available in the market these days that can be used for indoor
elimination. You can place them at the designated elimination site and your dog will be
able to relate to it.
These pads are easy to use, come in different sizes and are disposable. In case you are
opting for paper training, make sure to use more than one sheet of paper to avoid stains
on the floor.
Keep around a deodorizer to do away with stench.
Training To Eliminate On Command
It is essential for a dog owner to teach his or her dog to respond to different commands.
One important reason for doing command training is to establish a foundation from
which you and your dog can learn to effectively relate to one another.
The first thing obedience training does is to create a common language for you and your
dog. This, in turn, lets your dog know the proper response that you expect in place of
misbehavior.
In reality, all pets should be trained to obey commands for the benefit of both the pet and
its owner.
Clicker is also used to housetrain dogs. Instead of verbal commands clicker is used to
encourage dogs to eliminate.
Housebreaking Commands
There is no set rule or set words related to housebreaking commands. It varies from
owner to owner. Serious pet owners will always want their pets to be housetrained
properly to make them fully social. And training your dog to eliminate on command is
extremely essential, if you want your pet to be fully housebroken.
38
The commands fall into two categories:
•
To encourage elimination: Such commands are chosen to notify your dog to
eliminate in that particular place.
•
To stop your pet from eliminating at a wrong place: Such commands are
chosen to prevent your dog to eliminate in the wrong place.
Selecting The Commands:
The first step to make your pet respond during elimination is to select the commands you
are going to use. Whatever command you choose, make sure you stick to it.
Positive Commands
While housetraining a puppy you need to help your dog relate to the place of elimination.
With verbal commands you can make that happen. This goes for both indoor and
outdoor housetraining.
Suppose you want your dog to eliminate on wee pads or litter box, you need to use
commands like 'go', 'do it', 'do it here', 'go potty' and so on. These are positive
commands. Using these commands repeatedly will help your dog relate to use the wee
pad to pee or poop.
However, for best results use only one command for such cases. If you are using 'do it
here' or 'potty-time', then stick to the single command. Different commands each day will
only confuse your dog.
Positive Reinforcement
When your dog 'accidentally' eliminates at a wrong place or attempts to, you can use
commands like 'freeze', 'hold it' or even a firm 'no'. These are positive reinforcements.
Since scolding your dog for urinating or defecating at the wrong place will only confuse
it, there is no point in doing such a thing.
A simple 'no' or 'freeze' spoken in a stern voice will startle your dog enough to stop it.
After the spoken command you can pick up your dog and take it to its designated place.
Patience & Consistency
You cannot expect your dog to learn to obey your commands just overnight. You need to
work on it repeatedly. Puppies take a little longer to train than adult dogs. But with
consistency you can achieve your goal and make your dog eliminate on command.
39
Housetraining Schedule By Age
In each of the schedules below, “walk the dog” means to take the dog to his potty place
– the place you want him to use to potty. That place can be outdoors, a place where you
have papers for the purpose of pottying, or a doggie litter box.
Don’t forget: Take his water away at least two hours before bed. Some breeders
recommend four feedings a day for puppies under three months. If that is true for your
puppy, you can add another feeding into this schedule.
A puppy of less than three months does not have the physical development to be able to
control his bowels or his bladder. It is not too early to set the pattern, but it is too early to
expect perfection and no accidents.
You will notice that there is very little
exercise in this schedule. Your puppy
will want to “play” but will be too young
to play for very long without becoming
exhausted.
Play should be indoors and gentle and
whenever you and your puppy want it.
Short play periods are always followed
by pottying and napping.
He has only puppy teeth and you do not
want to damage them or his gums.
Therefore, do not play tugging games or
give him hard things to chew. His teeth
will be very sharp but he does not mean
to hurt you.
Schedule For Puppies
Six - Twelve Weeks Old
5:00 AM
Walk the dog
7:30 AM
Feed, water, then walk.
9:30 AM
Exercise, water, and walk
11:30 AM
Feed, water, then walk.
2:00 PM
Exercise, water, and walk
4:30 PM
Feed, water, then walk.
6:30 PM
8:30 PM
Walk (and exercise) the dog
Water and walk (last water of
the day)
11:00 PM
Walk the dog
Exercise, eating, drinking, and even waking up will cause your puppy to go potty. And he
may not even realize he is peeing or
pooping. As he nears three to four months,
Schedule For Puppies
he will begin to have more control and he
Three - Six Months Old
will have more realization of what is
happening. Using a schedule will begin to
pay off for you.
7:00 AM
Walk the dog
This is the best age for housetraining. The
7:30 AM
Feed, water, then walk.
puppy has enough physical development
to be fully aware of what he is doing and to
11:30 AM Feed, water, then walk.
be able to control his bladder and bowels.
4:30 PM
Feed, water, then walk.
With some training and praise for doing
Water and walk (last water the right thing, you should have a
housetrained puppy in a few weeks.
7:30 PM
of the day)
11:00 PM
There is also very little exercise in this
schedule. Your puppy will want more
exercise as he gets older and is more able
Walk the dog
40
to do things.
He will also have more energy and stamina. Play with him for 15 minutes several times a
day – at your convenience. If you can do it early in the day, around lunchtime, early in
the evening, and even again later in the evening, your puppy will love it.
As he approaches six months he will begin to enjoy and need toys. Chew toys like a
Nyla-Bone® of the appropriate size will become important as he prepares to lose his
baby teeth to get his adult teeth.
Other toys he will enjoy are soft stuffed toys (without parts like eyes that can be chewed
off) and soft squeak toys. Also, balls that are like tennis balls come in various sizes at
the pet stores and will provide hours of fun if you teach him to “go get it” or “bring it back”
or “fetch.”
He will begin to enjoy longer walks. And he will start showing interest in the world around
him. However, he is still too young for much in the way of roughhousing or tugging
games. You may want to take your puppy to a “puppy socialization” class. This will help
you learn more about him and train him to want to please you.
It will also use some of his excess energy. And, it will prepare you both for obedience
class.
Dogs were bred to work, so today’s dogs need “jobs” to occupy their minds and bodies
and to keep them from soiling your house out of sheer boredom.
If you acquire a puppy that is six months
to a year old, he should be fairly easy to
housetrain. If he has been in a family
setting or with a breeder who does some
initial training and socialization, he will
practically be housetrained when you get
him.
If he has lived his whole life in a crate (like
in a pet store), he may have some issues
or problems with housetraining. In that
case, you will need to see some of the
other parts of the book.
Schedule For Puppies
Six Months - One Year
7:00 AM
Walk the dog
7:30 AM
Feed, water and walk
12:30 PM
Water and walk
4:30 PM
Feed, water and walk
7:30 PM
Water and walk (last water
of the day)
Walk the dog
This age puppy will excitedly anticipate 11:00 PM
play periods and walks. Toys are
important to avert boredom. A bored
puppy chews on furniture and rugs, steals food, digs and scratches, and potties in the
wrong places.
Therefore, get your puppy toys – soft squeak toys, stuffed toys, chew toys – to keep him
occupied whether you are there or not. Giving him a Kong® toy with peanut butter inside
will occupy him for several minutes.
41
Longer walks, more frequent walks, or playing with another dog will be exciting and
interesting to your dog. If you have a fenced yard, games of fetch and chase will use up
more energy.
Or, if you run or jog, now is the time to start taking your dog with you for short periods.
Don’t run him too hard or too long and do keep him on a leash and keep the leash short.
Now is the time to start obedience training. Find an approved obedience school in your
area and take your dog once a week. Then practice twice a day for 15-20 minutes.
That will help you and your dog to understand each other better and help your dog learn
to want to please you. He will learn to potty in a hurry in order to go in the car or to get
back to class with his friends.
If you acquire a dog that is a year old or older, the chances are great that you are not the
dog’s first owner or that the dog was a stray or was given up for some reason.
These situations will make it more difficult to housetrain your dog. If that is the case, you
will want to read the sections on problems associated with various breeds (Chapter 6)
and the questions and answers in 35 Most Commonly Asked Questions On
Housetraining. You may also need to check out some of the special situations in Chapter
5.
Schedule For Dogs
If you got your dog from a breeder or from
One Year & Older
a previous owner, he may have been
housetrained. That is good.
7:00 AM
Walk the dog
7:30 AM
Feed, water, and walk
4:30 PM
Water and exercise
6:00 PM
Feed, water, and walk
7:30 PM
Water and walk
11:00 PM
Walk the dog
However, he may develop problems like
separation anxiety or marking or he may
“forget” he is housetrained.
Again, you may need to see some of the
further chapters.
When you are housetraining a dog that is
older than a year, it is important to use lots
of love, attention, and patience.
However, you will need to be especially firm and consistent in letting him know your
expectations.
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Chapter 3 - Knowing Your Dog’s Signals
Understanding Your Dog’s Body Language
Watch your dog closely. What does he do just prior to peeing? What does he do just
prior to pooping? Usually he does different things to prepare for peeing than he does to
prepare for pooping.
Watch for your dog to sniff more, go in circles, go back and forth, run to a bush, or do
some other thing that is different from walking or playing. By 8-10 weeks he will begin to
‘know’ he is about to pee or poop and will start looking for a place to do it.
Females will start looking for a place to squat to pee while males will start looking for
something upright to pee on like a chair leg or bush.
Both will look for some space for their poop as they don’t like to stand in poop while they
are still pooping, so they may waddle forward and spread it over a distance of a foot or
two (and farther as the dog gets larger).
Using A Bell
A great method to use to let your dog tell you when he
needs to potty is a bell or set of bells hung on the door
he goes out.
This can be any type of bell, but you want to make sure
it will not scratch your door when it hits the door or
swings back and forth.
“Sleigh bells” like those available for door decorations at
Christmas are ideal for this since they are usually
attached to a velvet ribbon, which will protect your door,
and because there are several bells, it is likely you will
be able to hear them from other parts of your house.
They also hang down so that your dog can easily reach
them with his nose even when he is a small dog.
Attach the bell(s) to the doorknob. Each time you take your dog to his potty place, make
sure you ring the bell(s).
After 4-5 days, show him how to take his nose and push on the bell(s) to get the ringing
noise as you go out the door. Within a couple of weeks, he should be ringing the bell(s)
to let you know he needs to potty.
Your dog will not be consistent with ringing the bell(s) at first, so you will still need to
watch him carefully and you will still need to stick to the appropriate schedule.
43
Your dog may also find that it is fun to get you to take him out more often, so in the
beginning, he may ring to go out more often than necessary. Remember, though, to be
consistent with praising your dog when he potties correctly.
Teaching Your Dog To Bark
Most dogs will naturally learn to bark or come and get you when they need to potty once
they understand you want them to only potty outside in their potty place.
If your dog barks in a way that is different from the way he barks at someone coming in
or the way he barks when playing, take him to his potty place and see if that is what he
needs. If your dog goes to the door and comes back and looks directly at you, take him
to his potty place.
Usually, your dog will exhibit urgency in his bark or his demeanor and need to go
immediately as he will not realize he needs to go until he has to go pretty badly. Be alert
to a change in behavior as a sign.
In rare cases you may need to teach your dog to bark. Some breeds are not real
barkers, so barking is not their normal way of telling you things. If your dog does not bark
very much, try a method like a bell he can ring or simply be more aware of his behavior
and demeanor at times when he is ‘scheduled’ to go to his potty place.
Tips & Hints To Housetraining Your Dog
•
Spend as much time as possible with your dog during the first few weeks. The
better you get to know your dog, the easier it will be for you to tell when he needs
to go potty.
•
Establish a routine and stick to it 24 hours a day and 7 days a week until your
dog has not had an accident for 2-3 months.
•
Be consistent with your expectations and with how you express those
expectations to your dog.
•
Be generous with praising your dog every time he does the right thing.
•
Understand the capabilities of your dog’s breed and age in relation to its ability to
potty train.
•
Always use the same door and the same potty place when teaching your dog.
Later you can use other places if you are traveling.
•
Choose a cue word (or two-word phrase) to tell your dog to ‘go potty now’ and
use it every time your dog potties and every time you want your dog to potty so
he gets to know it and know what it means.
44
•
Watch your dog. Be ready to ‘catch him in the act’ of having an accident. Watch
his behavior and demeanor to learn what he does just prior to pottying and get
him to his potty place.
•
Be patient with your dog. This may take a few days and, in some cases, a couple
of months. Some dogs may not be fully reliable until 18 months old.
•
Remember accidents are your fault and not your dog’s fault.
•
Never discipline your dog for an accident. Never let him watch you clean up an
accident.
•
Never hit your dog and never yell at your dog. You will cause much bigger
problems with those two behaviors than you will ever solve.
45
Chapter 4 - Accidents While Housetraining Your Dog
Accident Or On Purpose?
It is simple to determine if it is an accident or not: Assume it is an accident!
The fact of the matter is that you need to watch your dog very closely every minute you
are home with him. If you are watching and you are taking him to his potty place after he
wakes up, after he eats or drinks, and after he exercises, you should be able to “catch”
any accidents while they are happening. If you do not catch your dog in the act, it is not
his fault but yours.
What To Do About It?
For the first few times, when you catch her in the act, quickly pick her up and take her to
her potty place. Do not scold her or punish her or say anything harsh. Simply set her
down where you want her to potty and tell her ‘business’ or whatever word or phrase you
have chosen for her to potty.
The real key is watching closely enough to either catch her just before she potties or
while she is in the act. If you do not catch her at one of those times, you can do nothing
but clean it up.
If she is over three months and you have moved her to her potty place several times
when you caught her in the act of having an accident, you will need to take more action.
When you do catch her in the act of peeing or pooping in an inappropriate place, startle
her so she quits. You want her to think the loud noise came from “above” and not from
you.
If she associates the loud noise with you, she will become frightened of you and
apprehensive. Therefore, clapping your hands, yelling or beating on something are not
good ideas.
Methods for startling your dog:
•
A cowbell you can ring a couple of times where she cannot see you
•
A lidded can or plastic container with a handful of dried beans inside.
It is not critical that you startle the dog. It is more important that you go get the dog and
firmly say “no,” and take the dog to her potty place. Then use the appropriate cue
word meaning ‘go potty now’ and wait patiently. If the dog was scared, she may not be
able to start peeing or pooping again immediately. It is okay to talk to her and encourage
her.
46
How To Clean Up
Clean up thoroughly and clean up as soon as possible. If it is poop, simply pick it up with
paper toweling and throw it away. If it is urine (pee), use a pad of dye-free paper
toweling to soak up as much urine as possible. Once you have soaked up as much as
possible, make a pad of paper towels and put them on the spot. Put a weight on top so
that the urine is wicked up into the paper towels. Throw those towels away. If necessary,
repeat that process.
Once you have soaked as much as possible up from your carpet, try using a solution of
1 part white vinegar and 4 parts water in a spray bottle. Spray the area and leave it for
five minutes. Return and blot all of the solution so that the area is as dry as you can get
it.
If your dog does return to this place to potty, use one of products on the market for
helping to get rid of the scent. Get a product that says it is a “stain and odor remover” or
a “stain and odor eliminator” and look at the ingredients to make sure it says it contains
enzymes. You do not want ones that have bacteria, especially if they have no enzymes.
The enzymes bind the odors so your dog will not return to that place to potty again.
Do not use products with ammonia as it smells so similar to urine (urine has ammonia in
it). It is best to use products, which neutralize the smells. Most of these have enzymes in
them.
To Punish Or Not To Punish
NEVER PUNISH A DOG WHO IS BEING HOUSETRAINED.
Do not spank, hit or kick him.
Do not put his nose in his mess.
If you punish the dog, you will find him sneaking off to another room to potty or slinking
around the house acting guilty. He will not understand the punishment, but he will try to
avoid it in the future by not being around you.
Positive reinforcement is more effective than punishment for training dogs.
Immediately take the dog to the location where he is supposed to potty and use
whatever word you have chosen to tell him to potty.
Although he will probably not need to potty at that time, he will get the idea that you want
him to do it there. The next time he potties in the correct place, praise him more than
usual. You can even reward him with a short playtime or a small treat as well as praise.
If he soils the same wrong area again, especially if you arrive on the spot within minutes,
take him to the area and say firmly, “No Potty” and then take him to the area where he
should potty and walk him around and use the chosen command for pottying.
When he potties in the correct area, make sure you praise him verbally and with a small
treat. Then do not allow him into the room where he has soiled incorrectly until he has
earned that privilege again by pottying correctly for a couple of days.
47
If you catch your dog in the act of soiling the wrong area, startle him to get him to stop
and think. To do this, roll a newspaper up and slap it against your hand several times
and say “no”. Then, quickly, grab him and take him to the correct place to potty.
An alternative to the rolled newspaper is a shake can that you can make using a can
with a plastic lid filled with a handful of dried beans or peas, or for more noise, use coins.
Preventions Of Repeat Accidents
If your dog is younger than 3 months (6 months for most large breeds and a few small
breeds), you will continue to have accidents, so be patient, be vigilant about using a
schedule and do not ask your dog to go more than two hours between times of going to
his potty place.
Watch your dog carefully. Know what he does just prior to peeing and pooping and get
him to his potty place when he starts that routine.
Watch your dog carefully. If you don’t catch him just prior to accident, catch him in the
act and take him to his potty place.
If your dog is older than three months and you have had your dog more than three
weeks and been using a schedule vigilantly, you need to really be watching your dog
and understanding why he is having accidents. Make sure you have taken him to the vet
to find out if there is a medical condition that is contributing to his accidents.
If your dog is having frequent accidents, try to notice if there is a pattern:
Example 1: Does he usually have an accident 30 minutes after eating even though you
take him to his potty place right after eating and he doesn’t do anything? In that case, let
him eat and then wait about 25 minutes to take him to his potty place and stay until he
potties.
Example 2: He only has an accident when you are away from home. In this case, you
are not dealing with accidents but with separation anxiety. Or, he may be protesting your
leaving him. See information on dealing with this in Chapter 5.
Example 3: Does he dribble when you first come home from work or when he is
greeting guests? This is most likely excitement urination. See information for dealing
with this in Chapter 5.
Clean up the accident spot thoroughly. Make sure there is not odor to attract your dog.
Use an enzymatic cleaner and odor eliminator. You may need to play with or feed your
dog on the spot where he incorrectly pottied to introduce the idea of a different use of
that place.
If your dog is of a breed that is very scent-oriented such as a beagle, see the breedspecific information in Chapter 6.
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Chapter 5 - Special Situations In Housetraining
There are many situations that people consider “special situations” such as the fact that
the owner(s) work all day or the dog soils his crate. Sometimes a situation is a problem
relating more to the owner, but other times it is a problem relating more to the particular
dog or breed of dog.
Some situations simply arise and cannot be attributed to any particular cause, but are
frequent enough to warrant discussion. This chapter will cover several of those situations
and how to deal with them.
If the situation you have is not in this chapter, check Chapter 6 as it may be a problem
that is common to the breed(s) of dog you have.
Another place to look for answers to special situations is 35 Most Commonly Asked
Questions On Housetraining.
Owners Work All Day
This information applies to any dog that is new to your household, no matter what her
age. Often, a rescued dog needs the rigidity of the schedule worse than a puppy. It is
important for a dog to know what to expect and to have consistency in her schedule.
•
If the owners work all day and no family member is home between 8:00 AM
and 5:00 PM or even for more hours, you will need a special schedule. You
will also need a friend or neighbor to help you out for a few weeks.
•
If you have a very small puppy, you may want to use a crate and allow him to
potty on papers in it until he is three months old and his body is developed
enough that he has some control.
You will want to crate or in some way contain your puppy while you are gone during the
day until he is past the age of chewing as well as having potty accidents. This can be a
bathroom or utility room with a gate in the doorway or the door closed if you don’t want
to use a crate or don’t have room for one. Puppy-proof the area by spreading
newspapers over the floor.
•
If your puppy is three months or older, consider altering your work schedule
for a couple of weeks or taking a two-week vacation for the purpose of
housetraining. In today’s computer age, you may be able to work from home
for part of each day in order to accommodate the house-training schedule.
A schedule for working is very simple:
•
Get up about an hour earlier than normal and give puppy a chance to potty.
Then give puppy food and water. Give her a second opportunity to potty. Get
puppy some exercise – 15 minutes of walking or playing – followed by, or
along with another opportunity to potty - at least once before you go to work.
49
Puppy will enjoy simply being with you and following you around the house while you
prepare for work. Then give puppy one more opportunity to potty just before you leave
for work.
•
You, or someone, MUST go home around noon and give puppy an
opportunity to potty. If puppy is young, she will need food and water followed
by another opportunity to potty.
And she will be full of energy after being alone for several hours, so she will want some
play time or a short walk followed by another opportunity to potty.
•
As soon as you get home from work, take puppy to potty (yes, before you
change clothes).
•
Then, once you change clothes, play with puppy and give her food and water
and more opportunities to potty.
•
Throughout the evening, give her a chance to potty about every two hours.
•
About two hours before you want puppy to sleep through the night, take away
her water.
•
Give puppy a chance to potty just before going to bed.
You may want to leave a small bowl of water where the puppy can get to it during the
day. Do not use a bowl that is very large. He will not realize he could fall into it and
drown.
When your puppy reaches three months, the schedule needs to change slightly. When
you are home and able to watch for accidents, start lengthening the time between
opportunities to potty by fifteen minutes every 3-5 days until puppy is successfully
waiting two hours between opportunities. Also watch for puppy to give you signs she
needs to potty.
You don’t need the neighbor’s help any more! At some time shortly after your dog turns
six months old, he should be able to control his bladder and bowels all day while you are
gone if you give him sufficient opportunities to potty before you go to work and
throughout the evening.
Submissive Urination
A dog that submissively urinates is urinating (peeing) when he feels threatened. He may
pee when he is being scolded or when someone enters the house that in some way
makes him feel threatened. Although that person may not actually be threatening the
dog, the dog perceives a threat. It could simply be that the person is really tall or has a
low voice.
If the dog was abused (hit or yelled at) by someone at some point in his life, this person
may remind him of that person. He may pee when another pet in the house is around
50
him or threatening him. However, the threat does not have to really be a threat; it only
needs to be perceived by the dog as a threat.
If urination occurs when he’s being scolded, when he’s being greeted, or when someone
approaches him, it may be submissive urination. If he
is shy, anxious or timid or has a history of rough
treatment or punishment, he may have submissive
urination. If his urination is accompanied by
submissive postures (crouching or rolling over on his
back), it may be submissive urination.
If this describes your dog’s problem, start by taking
him to the veterinarian to rule out any physical
problems. If your dog is a male, have him neutered.
Then, if there are no medical problems, try the
following:
•
Use a crate for your dog when you are not home. Put a slip collar and leash on
him when you release him from the crate.
•
Keep greetings low key. Ignore your dog when you first arrive. Often crating your
dog while you are gone helps with this. Then, put the slip collar and leash on
your dog and take your dog outside to his potty place immediately when you let
him out of the crate. Stay outside with him until he has pottied.
•
Encourage with praise and reward with praise (and maybe a small treat) when he
does the right thing.
•
Give him alternatives. If you have taught sit or sit-stay, use that as you approach
him. Or, teach him to shake and use that as a greeting. Reward him for obeying.
•
Do NOT make eye contact with your dog when you are greeting him.
•
Pet your dog under his chin rather than on top of his head and kneel to talk with
him.
•
Never punish or scold him.
Try to understand exactly what makes your dog feel threatened. Be aware of when this
happens and what occurs that may be making your dog feel threatened. If you can
successfully do this, you can do specific things that will help your dog.
•
Never yell at your dog and never hit your dog. Do not let anyone – family
member or otherwise – yell at or hit your dog.
•
If you know ahead of time that someone is coming to your house that makes your
dog feel threatened, you can remove your dog from the scene by putting him in a
crate while that person is there. If he is used to being crated, he will feel safe and
secure in his den.
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•
If a tall person makes your dog feel threatened, put your dog on a leash and take
him to another room (or crate him) when the person is arriving. Wait until the
person is seated, then introduce your dog with the dog on a leash so he feels you
are in control of the situation.
•
If another pet makes your dog feel threatened, you may need to shut them in the
bathroom or utility room together for 15-20 minutes per day for several days to
work out who is the “top dog”.
Even if your new dog is not the top dog, the submissive urination should be less and less
frequent as the pets get used to their living together and understand who is in charge
and what is expected. Chances are that they will become friends in a few weeks.
Excitement Urination
If your dog potties (pees) when he gets attention or guests come, it could be either
excitement urination or submissive urination. Once you have ruled out submissive
urination, you need to determine if it is excitement urination.
Excitement urination occurs most often during greetings or playtime. The thing that
distinguishes it from submissive urination is that it is not accompanied by submissive
posturing.
If it is excitement urination, it may resolve as the dog matures. You need to see the
information on breeds and understand which breeds mature late. A Wheaten Terrier, for
example, may have this problem until it is two or three years old.
Do the things listed in Submissive Urination.
Make sure you (and everyone else) greet him and play with him outdoors until the
problem is resolved. Try to have your dog outside when he greets you and do not greet
him until he has been to his potty place to potty. Keep all greetings low key.
Take your dog to his potty place just before guests arrive. Put his slip collar and leash on
him and keep control of him when he greets the guests. You could have him go outside
to greet the guests, but keep him on his leash.
Alternatively, have guests ignore the dog for the first 15-20 minutes so that there is not
the excitement of their entering and making over him.
Have your puppy meet lots of people when he is young. Socialize him by taking him to
puppy kindergarten at a dog-training facility or pet store. Invite people to your home to
meet your dog. Make these meetings outdoors to start and then move indoors.
Include men and women, children, older people, people of different ethnicities, people in
wheelchairs, people wearing dark glasses or floppy hats, and people who smoke. Also
include people who like dogs, people who don’t particularly care for dogs, and people
are afraid of dogs.
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Until this problem is resolved, do not allow him in rooms with carpet or hardwood flooring
to greet you or anyone else.
Marking
As usual, make sure the dog is not dealing with a physical problem by starting with a vet
exam. Male dogs “mark” furniture much more frequently than female dogs. A male that
has not been neutered is far more likely to “mark” than one that has been neutered. The
lesson: have your male dog neutered at six months or as soon as possible.
Female dogs do sometimes “mark” either by squatting or by lifting a leg. Again, spay
your female dog as soon as she is old enough and make sure the vet does not find any
physical reasons for her “marking.”
“Marking” is urinating in small amounts, usually on vertical surfaces. It is either repeated
on the same surfaces or it may be done on multiple surfaces. Usually the dog doing the
“marking” will sniff the surface in a set pattern before “marking” it. Watch for this
behavior because, if you see it happen, you can break the pattern.
There are some things that are often associated with marking. Check and see if any of
these apply to your dog’s situation.
•
Does this behavior take place when another dog is visiting? Are there other dogs
in the household? Did you go some place where there was a dog your dog could
smell on your clothing?
•
Did you recently purchase new furnishings – couch, chair, rug?
•
Did a member of the household recently move out or move back in after an
absence? Do you have a visitor?
•
Has your dog recently returned from the vet or from boarding?
•
Did you get another pet recently? Or, is there another reason your dog who is
“marking” feels insecure in his place in the pack?
•
Does the “marking” happen after your dog sees or hears other animals through a
window or door? Is there a new dog in the neighborhood?
•
What type of food is the dog getting? Low-cost foods often have a higher
proportion of non-digestible filler ingredients and cause the dog to need to potty
more frequently.
What Can You Do To Break The Cycle?
•
Spay or neuter your dog. There are times that this solves the problems.
•
Do not punish your dog for “marking” as this is a natural dog behavior.
53
•
If you have other pets in your household, make sure there are no conflicts among
them. Assure each one that he/she is important to you by giving each one plenty
of attention and playtime with you.
•
You may need to block access to your dog’s view of the outdoors. If he/she sees
other animals – dogs, squirrels, or whatever – that makes your dog want to
“mark” and let those animals know “this is my territory; do not infringe.”
Sometimes this is as simple as closing a door or curtains at certain times of the day.
Other times you may need to cover windows with a blanket or keep your dog from a
room using gates.
•
Always put your dog in another part of the house or outside while you are
cleaning up marked areas so he does not think this is a good way to get
attention.
•
Clean thoroughly (at least twice) every place that your dog has marked. Use
enzymatic cleaner and neutralizer.
•
Make “marked” areas inaccessible if possible. If the dog has marked furniture,
rearrange your furniture while your dog is outside to confuse him/her.
•
If you cannot make those areas inaccessible, make them unattractive. Use the
area for play or giving treats.
•
If marking continues after the cleaning, use products available at pet stores such
as Bitter Apple on furniture legs or wherever needed. Other possible products are
Tabasco sauce or chili pepper sauce, but those will stain furniture upholstery and
rugs.
•
Make sure that any objects your dog might “mark” are kept off the floor and out of
reach of your dog. If you make a new purchase or if you have a guest or move a
family member back home, be especially watchful and aware. Spend time
assuring your dog and keeping your dog with you.
•
Be aware that some breeds, such as terriers, are especially prone to “marking”
because they are very territorial. Be persistent and patient!
•
Change the area in which your dog is allowed. Sometimes a dog will only “mark”
when you are not present with him. For two to four weeks, keep him with you in
the house and crate him when you cannot have him with you.
Then, for a few weeks, allow him in very limited (easily cleanable) areas when he is not
with you. Monitor him (that means watch him carefully) when he is “free” in the house.
•
Make sure to get your dog plenty of exercise and attention.
•
Be consistent and persistent with this situation.
54
Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety is exhibited by a wide variety of dogs. Some of those dogs have had
more than one owner or home – often as many as three or four beloved owners. Some
dogs are simply very possessive of their owners and that may or may not depend on the
breed of dog. Separation anxiety can also occur with a dog that has no apparent reason.
It can be a one-time occurrence like after a long absence by the owner for a vacation or
a hospitalization. That absence can be traumatic for the dog in terms of not seeing his
owner or in terms of being sent to boarding or becoming one of several dogs in a
household of an owner’s friend or family member.
Major changes in the family structure or the family’s routine can also trigger an episode
of separation anxiety. These triggers include a family member leaving for college or
traveling more, a move to a new location, the addition or death of another pet, a family
member leaving home or a new member (baby or adoption or return from college) in the
home.
Your dog may exhibit separation anxiety by urinating, defecating, digging, scratching, or
chewing while you are gone. If your dog is perfectly housetrained and behaves
appropriately at all times except when you leave him – even if you are only gone less
than an hour – he is suffering from separation anxiety.
Because separation anxiety is due to the owner being gone, you need to change the
leaving routine. You can confine your dog to a crate or bathroom or utility room (or a
small area of your home which is not carpeted) while you are gone, but make sure it is
comfortable and “home-y” to him. Put his bed or blanket in it. Put a favorite toy or two in
it.
Give him something to chew. Also consider giving him a ticking clock or a radio tuned to
your favorite station where he can hear it. If you have the television on when you are
home, consider leaving it on when you leave and turning it loud enough for him to hear
wherever he is.
Some owners find that giving the dog a special chew toy when they leave helps give him
something to think about and do and keeps him from being anxious. This can be a Nylabone® or, if the dog is over six months, a hoof. Another option is a Kong® toy with
peanut butter smeared inside for the dog to lick out of it.
Use a word or phrase as a cue with your dog that indicates you will return. For example,
say to him, “I’ll be back shortly.” Use your cue whenever you go out the door – when you
take the garbage out, when you go to get something out of the car, when you go to the
mailbox, when you go to the grocery store, when you go to visit a friend or run errands,
etc.
If you use it when you are basically still in his sight (like at the mailbox or the car), he will
know you are coming back. Then, when you use it for longer periods, he will not be so
fearful.
Vary the amounts of time you are gone from him. If you are using the routine and cues
when you go to the mailbox as well as when you go for longer periods, he will not know
how long you will be away.
55
Reward your dog when you return if he has not had a problem. Give him praise and give
him a treat. This is an instance where a food treat gives him something to anticipate
while you are gone.
There is one aspect of obedience training that may help with this situation. That is
teaching your dog to stay. Even without full obedience training or going to obedience
school, you can teach your dog to stay.
If your dog is in the room where you are watching television, tell him to stay when you go
to get a snack or to answer the phone. Bring a treat for your dog when you return, but
only give it to him if he stayed in the room like you told him to do.
Once he does that, you can use both the “stay” command and your leaving cue to let
him know you will return soon.
If these techniques do not work, you may have to crate him every time you leave.
However, this may make him even more anxious when you leave. If that occurs, he can
do damage to himself while you are gone.
You may need to consider leaving him with a friend or family member or taking him to a
doggie daycare facility during the day if you work or will be gone several hours. You will
also need to go through the steps below for desensitization.
If your dog’s separation anxiety is severe, you may need to go through desensitization
steps with him. This is a systematic, step-by-step process of teaching your dog to remain
calm during your departure and absence. Move very slowly from step to step and do not
proceed to the next step until your dog is completely calm and comfortable with the step
you are doing.
If your dog is extremely anxious, you will not be able to do a step more than a couple of
times a day; however, if he tolerates it well, try to do the same step 4-5 times in a day for
at least 2-3 days. Some steps you may have to do for two weeks (or more) to
desensitize your dog.
•
Go through your normal departure routine – get your keys, put on your coat, lock
the doors, give your verbal cue (“I’ll be back in a little while.”), etc. Then sit down.
You can sit for various amounts of time. Then “greet” your dog in a low-key
manner. Then take off your coat and put your keys away like you have returned.
•
Once your dog is comfortable with step 1, instead of sitting down, go to the door
and open it and then go sit down. You can even stand at the open door for a few
minutes and then sit down for a few minutes. Again, vary the amounts of time.
•
Once your dog is comfortable with step 2, then start going out the door and
closing it. Stand on the porch a few minutes, and then return. Sometimes you
can sit down and sometimes, simply do your “return routine.”
•
If your dog shows anxiety at any point during any step, move back one step until
he is comfortable and then start moving forward, slowly, again. Once he is
tolerating step 3, you can vary what you do for the next step. Sometimes, you
can walk around the house or yard and sometimes you can start the car and let it
run for 5-10 minutes.
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•
If he is doing well with step 4, you are ready for actually leaving. However, you
are going to be gone less than 15 minutes for the first several times. You could
run a single errand or drive around the block or simply go sit in a parking lot for
10 minutes and then return.
•
If step 5 is successful, you can begin to lengthen your absences by 5-10 minutes.
Once you work up to 40-45 minutes, you can lengthen by 15-20 minutes. When
your dog tolerates absences of 2 hours or more, you can try adding 30-45
minutes.
Never punish your dog for “accidents” while you are gone. That will only make him more
anxious.
Do not get another pet during this time. That, too, will only make him more anxious and
unsure of his place in the family.
There are some new medications (such as Reconcile®) being used, which your vet may
suggest. Most are related to Prozac® and have side effects you need to understand.
You will still need to use the routines and tips given in these pages, but the medication
may help your dog be able to work through the training.
Soiling The Crate
If your dog is a puppy less than 3 months old, it is not unexpected for him to potty in the
crate. You cannot expect him to control his bladder and bowels perfectly until after he is
three months.
If it is a very small dog in a very large crate, consider a smaller crate or, if the dog will be
large when grown, block off part of the crate so he can only be in half or two-thirds of the
crate. Crate partitions are available at pet stores and online.
No dog should be left in a crate more than 4 hours without an opportunity to move
around and to potty. No dog under 6 months of age should be left for more than 3 hours
without exercise and an opportunity to potty. And no dog should be in a crate more than
9 hours total in any 24-hour period.
If the crate is VERY clean and your dog is used to being in a clean area, he will not soil
the crate. He sees the crate as his home den and no dog wants to soil his home den.
If he has soiled the crate, you must clean every bit of the crate with hot water and a mild
detergent such as a dishwashing soap or a detergent with enzymes available at pet
stores. Let the crate dry completely (outdoors in the sun is best, but not always
possible). Then spray the entire crate with an enzymatic odor and stain eliminator and let
it dry completely.
Give your dog a towel or blanket to lie on. Then put it into the crate for him to lie on.
Always make sure he has sufficient opportunity to potty just before he goes into the
crate. And always take him to his potty place immediately when he is released from the
crate.
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Feed your dog more than 40 minutes prior to putting him in the crate. Then take him to
his potty place at least twice between feeding and crating him. If he urinates in the crate,
do NOT give him water in the crate and withhold all water once he has had a drink with
his food. Then give him ample time to get a drink after releasing him from the crate.
If you paper train your dog, do not put newspapers on the floor of the crate and then
expect him to not soil the papers.
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Chapter 6 - Class By Class & Breed By Breed
(Housetraining Problems with various types of dogs and specific breeds of dogs,
including mixes of those breeds)
In general the size of the dog and the characteristics of the breed are very important to
understand no matter what you are trying to teach your dog. A dog will eat an amount in
proportion to its size and so it will poop in proportion to what it eats. The same goes with
drinking and peeing. If it drinks a lot, it will definitely pee a lot. What goes in must come
out.
Remember that very large breeds (such as mastiffs or great danes) have larger bladders
even as puppies. This means two things: they can go longer between potty times and
they will have a lot more urine when they potty. They also will have a much larger bowel
movement – in proportion to their size and the amount they eat.
On the other hand, a tiny breed will have to go to its potty place frequently even when it
is fully grown. Why? Because its bladder and bowel are small and do not hold much.
About Fences
All dogs that will, as adults, be ‘let out’ to potty rather than walked on a leash need
a fenced yard. There are several reasons for this. One is so that your dog does not get
out and get hit by a car or get into poison or some other bad-for-him thing or get into a
fight with another animal and get injured. It is also so that some other animal does not
get into your yard and attack your dog.
For most toys and small to medium dogs, a 4-foot chain-link fence is sufficient. Make
sure it is stretched tightly and anchored to the posts securely and that there are no gaps
between it and the soil at the bottom.
However, for large dogs, scent hounds, sight hounds, pointers, setters (and some
retrievers), a 6-foot fence is a necessity. It is best if it is secured at the bottom for scent
hounds, setters, and terriers.
That means it needs to be set in cement all along the bottom or an electric fence wire
needs to be woven along the bottom or an invisible fence wire needs to be buried below
the fence.
The fence itself can be underground for several inches or chicken wire can be attached
to the fence and buried. For jumping breeds like long-legged hounds and pointers, the
top of the fence needs to have an electric wire or, at the very least, needs to curve into
the yard to make it harder to jump over.
If these measures do not work to keep the dog inside the yard, you will have to use a
covered and locked dog run like many kennels and veterinarians use.
This section gives information on some groups of dogs that are more difficult to
housetrain such as scent hounds, sight hounds, terriers, and toy breeds. Then there will
be a section of specific instructions and tips for specific breeds that have a more difficult
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time with housetraining. If the breed you are looking for is not in this list and you are
having difficulty, do not despair.
There are sections on specific types of problems and later there is a list of web sites that
are specific to the breeds and their rescue groups that can also give you some help and
ideas as well as contact information for breeders and trainers of those breeds.
Scent Hounds
Scent hounds include the following: American Bloodhound, American Blue Gascon
Hound, American Foxhound, Basset Hound, Beagle, Black and Tan Coonhound,
Bloodhound, Dachshund, English Foxhound, Harrier, Ibizan Hound, Otterhound, Petit
Basset Griffon Vendeen, Pharaoh Hound, Plott, Rhodesian Ridgeback, and Scottish
Deerhound.
The scent hound category also includes many hunting dogs like
pointers and coondogs as well as any dog whose breed name ends
in “hund.”
Scent hounds have a fantastic nose! They will chase after anything
– like a rabbit or squirrel – whose scent they pick up. If they pick up
a scent, they will totally forget they are supposed to be pottying and
take off. They have great stamina and a one-track mind and will
keep running until they get to whatever they smelled.
Many scent hounds have been “let out” to go potty and never been seen again! A fence
is a must with these dogs. With the taller breeds, that fence must be six feet. However,
they are also diggers, so secure the bottom of your fence and walk your fence often to
make sure there are not places where your dog is digging under it.
Keep your puppy on a leash every time you go outside and hold on tightly to the leash!
It is essential that you work persistently and patiently on teaching your scent hound to
potty on command and to potty outside. Many of these dogs do not care where they
potty as they just let it happen on the way to find the rabbit or whatever.
Because scent is so important to them, if they potty even once in the house, you will
have a terrible time cleaning it up sufficiently to keep them from finding it and pottying
there again. Purchase enzymatic odor eliminator and use it extravagantly. Then play
with your dog or feed him in the area where he had the “accident.”
Sight Hounds
Sight hounds include the following: Afghan Hound, Basenji, Borzoi, Italian Greyhound,
Irish Wolfhound, Norwegian Elkhound, Saluki, and the Whippet. The sight hound
category also includes many hunting dogs like pointers, setters, retrievers, and
coondogs as well as any dog whose breed name ends in “hund.”
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You may notice that many of these dogs are “racing” dogs because they can be shown
“bait” such as a rabbit and then will run fast and far to keep it in sight and hopefully,
catch it. Keep that in mind when you take your sight hound outside to his potty place. If
he sees a rabbit and is not on a leash with you in control, he will be
GONE – to the next county before you can even start to chase him
down.
A fenced area is absolutely necessary with these dogs. Many of
them are very long-legged and can easily jump 8-10 feet straight up
– and over the fence – so you may also need to keep them on a
leash inside the fence – or, at least, install an invisible fence
system along with the 6-foot fence.
Keep your puppy on a leash every time you go outside and hold on tightly to the leash!
These dogs will chase anything that moves, including cars. Be very careful with your
puppy and even grown dog anywhere there is traffic. They will dart out into the road,
even pulling the leash out of your hand (or taking you with them), to chase the cat or
squirrel they have seen on the other side of the street.
Pointers & Setters
Many pointers have similar characteristics to the sight hounds and to the scent hounds
so make sure you understand the issues written under the respective topics.
Terriers
Terriers are very territorial, so are very prone to marking behaviors. Also remember that
the name terrier comes from the French word “terre” meaning earth because they were
bred to dig and tunnel to get their prey.
So, not only is a fence a necessity, but making sure it is
secure at the bottom is a daily duty for you. Otherwise, you
will lose your dog when you let him out to go potty.
Terriers are extremely intelligent, independent, and
inquisitive. They are quick to learn, but they may only obey
when it suits them. Firmness and consistency are important
in housetraining when you own a terrier as they quickly
learn exactly where and under what circumstances they can
get away with not obeying.
Terriers will NOT TOLERATE even unintended mistreatment from a child. Terriers can
be very destructive (tearing up things, chewing, eliminating, etc.) if left unattended and
unemployed!
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Retrievers
Retrievers are pretty simple to housetrain. They want to please their people. They want
to live in a clean environment.
A retriever who is having problems with housetraining is most likely a
retriever that has been in another home previously and was not
properly housetrained or was abused or required to live in a dirty pen
or crate. It is best in this case to simply start over on housetraining
and be especially lavish with praise and attention when the retriever
does the right thing.
Retrievers often resist crate training and will injure themselves in
trying to get out and be with their people. Some retrievers (especially
some Golden Retrievers) are jumpers, so need a tall, secure fence.
Late Maturers
In general, the larger the dog breed, the longer it takes to fully mature mentally and
physically. This means that mentally they “don’t get it” and feel like there is no difference
to them where they potty. And it means that physically, either their urinary tract
(especially bladder and sphincter) or their digestive tract (especially bowels and
sphincter) are slow in developing full control.
Late maturers include, but are not limited to, Irish Wolfhounds, all Mastiffs, Great Danes,
Chinese Shar-Peis.
Some medium sized-dogs like the Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier are also late maturers.
If your dog is a late maturer, you may have more than 18 months of watching it closely
and sometimes cleaning up an accident. Most likely your dog will be 3 years old before
you can fully trust him to not have an accident.
Toy Breeds
Toy breeds can have special problems in housetraining. Make sure you, the owner, are
not the problem. Think of your toy breed as a dog and not as a baby or as part human.
Have the same expectations of your dog as you would if it were a Golden Retriever or
Great Dane.
Be consistent with it in training. Refuse to accept “accidents” – which means you must
be vigilant in watching your dog and catching him just before the act or in the act and
getting him immediately to his potty place and using your cue word.
If you purchased your toy breed dog from a pet store or puppy mill, you will have an
especially hard time housetraining him. Those puppies are often put on papers and
expected to eat on the paper, sleep on the paper, play on the paper, and potty on the
paper. Therefore, they get used to living in their own filth and do not know any better. At
that point, any place they potty is fine with them. They do not have the normal aversion
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to pottying in their den or near their food or toys and it will be hard to teach them to
change that.
Realize that pottying is done when the dog cannot protect himself, so your dog must feel
safe in his potty place. Especially if he is less than 12 pounds, it is important for him to
feel secure when taken or sent to his potty place. Make sure he cannot see or be seen
by a large dog or other “threatening” animals when he is in his potty place. You may
need to allow him to use a place fairly close to the door and simply clean up frequently.
A toy cannot wade through tall grass, so the grass on the way to his potty place as well
as in his potty place must be kept very short. He will also be much more susceptible to
cold weather. He will lose heat rapidly, so would rather potty in the house than brave the
cold.
A sweater or coat is a necessity for a small dog, especially if he does not have a nice
winter coat. It will also be necessary to wipe his feet and get ice out from between his
pads as soon as he comes in the house. And, it should be obvious; he cannot stay out
very long on a cold day.
Use a schedule – and stick to it. Keep your eyes on your dog when he is loose in the
house. Be consistent. Watch your dog! Praise lavishly – they love it and will do the right
thing to please you and receive praise. Be vigilant in watching your dog.
As with any dog, crate training is your biggest ally in housetraining! Keep your dog right
with you (attach his leash to you if necessary) when he is out of the crate and you are
home. Do not punish accidents – it is your responsibility to watch your dog and catch
him before the accident.
Specific Breeds Of Interest For Housetraining
Affenpinscher
The Affenpinscher, although a toy breed, is very much like many terriers. Read the
sections on Terriers and Toy Breeds. When housetraining an Affenpincscher, remember
that he responds readily and happily to praise or to food.
Like all dogs, his response will be much better to positive reinforcement than to
punishment. This breed is notoriously hard to housetrain, so start early and be prepared
for a long-term training time during which you must be consistent and positive.
Afghan Hound
The Afghan Hound is a Sight Hound
American Bloodhound
The American Bloodhound is a Scent Hound
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American Blue Gascon Hound
The American Blue Gascon Hound is a Scent Hound.
American Foxhound
American Foxhounds are scent hounds, so see the section on Scent Hounds as well as
reading this information. Most rescued Foxhounds are actually retired from hunt clubs
and have never lived with a family or in a house.
Foxhounds that are part of a hunt club pack are kept in kennels or barns and are only
socialized with each other and are not housetrained. They are not retired unless they do
not work well with the pack or they get too old to go the distances required of the pack.
Do not take a retired hunt club Foxhound unless a qualified rescuer who has taught him
house manners and started housetraining has fostered him. You will need to work
closely with this rescuer to understand exactly how to work with this dog if you want him
to become a pet.
Basenji
The Basenji is a sight hound, so see the section on Sight Hounds. They are very hard to
train. Never let your frustrations cause you to use negative methods with them; use only
positive training. Keep your sense of humor and don’t forget they get bored easily with
repetition.
Basset Hound
The Basset Hound is a scent hound, so read the section on Scent Hounds.
Beagle
The Beagle is a Scent Hound. Also realize that beagles are not fully housetrained until
they at least a year old and having no accidents. Use crate training with beagles. Make
sure you get all the doggie scent out of the places where he has pottied. Use one of the
enzymatic cleaners available in pet stores.
Beagles will drink a lot of water. They will then pee basically the same as the amount
they just drank. Make sure you get your beagle outside to his potty place and stay with
him until he finishes peeing that much! Otherwise, you will have another accident.
Black & Tan Coonhound
Since the Black and Tan Coonhound is a Scent Hound.
Bloodhound
The Bloodhound is a Scent Hound
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Border Collie
Border collies do well with crate training. When taking the puppy out of the crate and out
to her potty place, use the cue word or phrase you have chosen. Do not let the puppy
run around and investigate everything. This will force her to potty out of sheer boredom.
If she doesn’t potty after ten minutes and repeating your word or phrase 2-3 times, take
her back to the crate for another half hour if she is young or up to an hour if she is six
months or older.
Learn your dog’s bathroom habits. Some dogs urinate twice each time and some turn a
certain number of circles before peeing. Some like privacy and will go around a corner or
near shrubs or a fence. Some dogs “teach” their owners to take long strolls before
pottying. Do not let your dog learn this behavior. Use the 5-10 minutes system
consistently. Teach your dog that the “fun” part of his day does not start until after she
has been a “good dog” and done her pottying.
Female Border Collies need a ‘go potty now’ phrase or they may not relieve themselves
in a new territory for over 24 hours. Non-neutered males ‘mark’ everywhere – that
includes inside buildings – when introduced to a new territory.
Border Terrier
The Border Terrier needs crate training. They must be on a leash whenever outside. The
older they get, the more likely they are to chase a squirrel or rabbit, even though they
have been obedience trained. More Border Terriers die from being hit by cars than of old
age or disease. Always keep them within a fence. Read about Terriers.
Borzoi
The Borzoi is a Sight Hound.
Bulldog
Although the Bulldog is very determined and very stubborn, he usually housetrains fairly
easily and does not have accidents as he likes to keep his living space clean.
Bull Terrier
Bull Terriers are very active and busy, not only as puppies but well into middle age (5-6
years). Bull Terriers do not do well in situations where they are expected to remain alone
in the home or yard for long periods of time or where their physical activity is very
restricted. In these situations Bull Terriers become bored and destructive. They can be
difficult or impossible to housebreak. Read the section on Terriers.
The Bull Terrier is prone to polycystic kidney disease, so have your dog checked by a
veterinarian if he appears to be having problems with urinating.
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Cairn Terrier
A "kennel" or crate is highly recommended for housetraining. Read the section on
Terriers. Cairn Terriers are easily bored and destructive, so chew, dig or bark to help
relieve the tedium. They do love to dig, and flowerbeds are hard to resist; don't tempt
your puppy by leaving him alone in yard.
If you have your Cairn outside of a fence, he must be tightly controlled with a leash, as
he will chase squirrels, cats, rabbits, other dogs, or whatever is moving – he was bred to
hunt!
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel needs a fenced yard with a real fence as he will endure
the shock of an invisible fence if he sees a person or child or animal that interests him.
Likewise, if he is outside the fence, he must be on a leash. He is a socialite and will go
with anyone or will get into a car or go into a house with anyone.
Chihuahua
The Chihuahua is especially prone to submissive urination. The urine in this case means
“I bow to you” and the more urine, the more submission.
What can you do?
•
Avoid all things that suggest aggression to this tiny dog.
•
Ignore the submissive urination. Show no anger or aggression. Do not bend
over to pet or pick up the dog. Lure it to another area with food, and then
clean up the urine.
•
If the submissive urination occurs upon your arrival home, do not greet the
dog. Do other things for a little while. If he is crated, leave him in the crate.
Ignore him until the initial excitement passes.
•
Squat to the dog’s level when talking to him. Even better, sit on the floor.
•
Do not pet the dog on the top of his head or on his back; instead, reach out
with your palm up and rub him under his chin.
•
Place exciting treats around the house near places you spend a lot of time –
your favorite chair, the kitchen sink or refrigerator, the dog’s bed or crate.
When the dog is showing calm behavior, offer a treat. Then praise the dog if he stays
calm and has no urination. Avoid eye contact. Do not praise if the treat causes
submissive urination or fearful behavior like rolling on his back.
•
Do not grab the dog – even if you are in a hurry. Lure the dog with treats.
•
Never pick up or pet a dog that has prostrated himself on the ground.
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•
Encourage your dog to put his front paws up on your leg to signal that he
wants to be picked up.
•
Be patient. Ignore unwanted behaviors. Reward the right behaviors.
Chinese Crested
The Chinese Crested must be supervised 100% of the time while housetraining. The
most common time for accidents is when you take your eyes off the puppy for just a
couple of minutes – for example, when you go to the bathroom. When you get done, you
will find that your puppy also went to the bathroom!
Either put her in a crate or put her on a leash and tie the leash around your waist if you
are busy (such as fixing dinner or helping a child).
You can also confine her in a small area such as a bathroom or kitchen with a "bathroom
area" (papers, pee pads), food and water and some toys. Once she is housetrained
these techniques will not be necessary.
Chinese Shar-Pei
The Chinese Shar-Pei is a Late Maturer. The Chinese Shar-Pei is fairly easy to
housetrain, but it seems to have more than its fair share of digestive tract problems,
which lead to bloody or tarry feces or diarrhea and several kidney diseases, which make
the dog appear as if it is not housetrained. Consult a veterinarian familiar with Shar-Peis
if you have concerns.
Dachshund
The Dachshund is a Scent Hound. Because of its short legs it has many of the same
problems and “complaints” about weather, which the toy breeds have, so read about Toy
Breeds. Dachshunds are difficult to housetrain.
Most dachshunds do eventually housetrain, but it is not unusual to hear things like "she's
95% reliable." Probably their independent nature makes them a little difficult to
housebreak. It's not that they don't know any better, or that they want to be disobedient;
it's just that they don't always see the necessity of relieving themselves outside
(especially in bad weather), and they are willing to accept the consequences.
Patience, time (like a year), consistency, and persistency go a long way with
housebreaking a dachshund.
Dalmatian
Dalmatians are very likely to have physical problems or disorders of the urinary tract,
which render them incontinent or unable to pass urine.
Some Dalmatians have Uric Acid Syndrome, a disease in which the kidneys excrete uric
acid without converting it into urea. This is not renal failure or incontinence but a
metabolic disorder. Those who have this disorder usually develop kidney stones as a
result and may have urethral blockage and/or toxemia.
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These problems are more common in males than females. When it does occur in a
female, she has a better chance of passing the stones without the urethral blockage.
There are various diets and medications available.
A diet of wheat-, soy- or corn-based food helps to alleviate stone formation. If your
Dalmatian has any problem with urination, get him to a veterinarian.
English Foxhound
The English Foxhound is a Scent Hound.
English Toy Spaniel
Read the information on Toy Breeds. The English Toy Spaniel should be kept on-lead or
in a fenced-in yard. They should not be left outside unattended especially within an
invisible fence or on a tie-out as they can be injured by a larger animal passing through.
Finnish Spitz
Patience is a key word when training a Finnish Spitz. You may feel as if you are making
no headway and all of a sudden he will surprise you. The Finnish Spitz is a hunting dog,
so read about Scent Hound and Sight Hounds.
French Bulldog
The French Bulldog takes a lot of time and requires a routine to housetrain.
German Short-haired Pointer
The typical German Short-haired Pointer may be a fence-jumper, but do not commonly
dig under fences (although a bored dog may dig holes in your yard). However, most will
find and exploit holes in walls or fences, particularly if there is an offending squirrel on
the other side!
Once a German Short-haired Pointer learns he can escape from his yard, he may
continue to do so until all escape routes have been corrected. As with many breeds, the
safest place to keep a German Short-haired Pointer when unattended is a covered,
locked dog run.
German Wirehaired Pointer
The typical German Wirehaired Pointer may be a fence-jumper, but do not commonly dig
under fences (although a bored dog may dig holes in your yard). However, most will find
and exploit holes in walls or fences, particularly if there is an offending squirrel on the
other side!
Once a German Wirehaired Pointer learns he can escape from his yard, he may
continue to do so until all escape routes have been corrected. As with many breeds, the
safest place to keep a German Wirehaired Pointer when unattended is a covered, locked
dog run.
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Glen of Imaal Terrier
A Glen of Imaal Terrier’s potty place should be in a fenced yard, or walked on a leash.
Since they dig, the ideal fencing should have a foundation. If not, a Glen should probably
not be allowed the yard unsupervised. Read about Terriers.
Gordon Setter
The Gordon Setter has a tendency to put his nose to the ground and go wherever the
hunting instinct leads any time he is outside. They are used to finding their game by
scent so read about Scent Hound.
Greyhound
The Greyhound is a Sight Hound. Greyhounds have small bladders and cannot go very
long without eliminating. They must be taken to their potty spot frequently.
Be consistent, establish a routine, and stick with the routine seven days a week. Confine
your dog when you cannot watch him. Do not scold him for accidents. An accident
represents a relapse in training, so take it seriously by watching him even more closely
and confining him whenever you must take your eyes off of him.
Housetraining takes several weeks of careful watching and consistent training. Crating
puppies for more than 2-3 hours at a time will lead to elimination in the crate - a very
difficult habit to break and no help in house training. As a consequence, house training
can be very difficult if there is no one home during the day.
Long walks on lead and free play in a fenced yard are a necessity. Be very careful with
your puppy and even grown dog anywhere there is traffic. A greyhound will dart out into
the road, either pulling the leash out of your hand or taking you with him, to chase the
cat or squirrel he has seen on the other side of the street.
Harrier
The Harrier is a Scent Hound.
Ibizan Hound
The Ibizan Hound is a Scent Hound.
Ibizan Hounds should only be allowed off leash outside in a fenced-in area under
supervision. They are very agile dogs, able to jump great heights from a standstill. An
Ibizan Hound owner needs to have a 6-foot fence.
Irish Setter
The Irish Setter is a slow maturing dog (read about Late Maturers), staying in
adolescence until three years old or longer, both mentally and physically. Some believe
the Setter to be difficult to train, but it is very smart. It will remember a lesson for its
lifetime once it learns, so patience and consistency are very important.
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Because Setters are fastidiously clean, they housetrain easily if given a routine and the
opportunity to go to their potty place frequently. Irish Setters are hunters and, by
continuing to follow their noses, can walk or run off without meaning to if they are not
kept in a fence or on a leash when going potty.
Either an ample fenced yard or the means to walk or run the dog daily are a must if you
wish to have a happy and adjusted Irish Setter.
Irish Terrier
The Irish Terrier is a lively dog who needs an area fenced with a 5 to 6 foot fence that is
secured at the top and bottom as he loves to jump and to dig under fences. Read about
Terriers.
Because he will want to play in the yard with the entire family, it is wise to train the puppy
to use one section of the yard as its toilet. The Irish Terrier is not hard to housetrain and
this should be a routine part of the housetraining procedure.
Irish Wolfhound
The Irish Wolfhound is a Sight Hound. Also, he is a Late Maturer.
Italian Greyhound
Housetraining can be a major hassle for the new owner of an Italian Greyhound.
However, most of the problems are owner issues and not the dog. Remember that
greyhounds have small bladders and cannot go very long without eliminating. They must
be taken to their potty spot frequently, so if you work, this dog may not be for you.
Be consistent, establish a routine, and stick with the routine seven days a week. Before
bringing your greyhound home, discuss the schedule he has been on and try to stick
with that schedule for a few days and then gradually make changes to fit your life.
Confine your dog when you cannot watch him. Do not scold him for accidents. An
accident represents a relapse in training; so take it seriously by watching him even more
closely and confining him whenever you must take your eyes off of him. Never give your
dog too much freedom too soon.
Housetraining takes several weeks of careful watching and consistent training. Crating
puppies for more than 2-3 hours at a time will lead to elimination in the crate - a very
difficult habit to break and no help in house training. As a consequence, house training
can be very difficult if there is no one home during the day.
Long walks on lead and free play in a fenced yard are a necessity. Remember Italian
Greyhounds are Sight Hounds and they will chase anything that moves, including cars.
Be very careful with your puppy and even grown dog anywhere there is traffic. A
greyhound will dart out into the road, even pulling the leash out of your hand, to chase
the cat or squirrel it has seen on the other side of the street.
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Lhasa Apso
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia is a genetic defect of the kidneys common in Lhasa Apsos.
Symptoms you may see include excessive thirst and volume of urine, pale urine, weight
loss, lack of vigor, and intermittent loss of appetite.
Normal puppies drink approximately one ounce of water per pound of body weight daily
when eight to ten weeks of age, but dogs with severe renal dysplasia may drink as much
as five times that quantity (and then pee that much!).
Norwegian Elkhound
The Norwegian Elkhound is a Scent Hound.
Otterhound
The Otterhound is a Scent Hound
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
The Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen is a hunting dog, which should never be allowed off
leash if it is outside your 4-6 foot high fence. He is an escape artist and he loves to dig. If
you are using an invisible fence, he will ignore a shock, not matter how strong, to chase
a rabbit or squirrel. Secure your fence at the ground and watch for signs of digging.
Pharoah Hound
The Pharoah Hound is both a Sight Hound and a Scent Hound. They are very fast!
Plott
The Plott is a hunting hound. It is a Scent Hound.
Pointer
The pointer needs a fence, usually up to 6 feet. They are so similar to sight hounds in
their behavior, you should read the section on Sight Hound.
Redbone Coonhound
This hound is both a Sight Hound and Scent Hound
Rhodesian Ridgeback
The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a Scent Hound.
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Rottweiler
Start your Rottweiler with crate training. A Rottweiler must know you are the Alpha dog,
you are the one in charge. Otherwise, he (or she!) is very prone to marking his territory
both in the house and outside all of his (or her) life.
Rottweilers are one of the few breeds where females as well as males mark. Make sure
he understands what you want and be firm and consistent. Follow a set routine every
single day. He is very smart and will try to mark or potty when you are not paying
attention. Clean up thoroughly with an enzymatic odor eliminator after every accident.
Read about Marking.
A Rottweiler that will not housetrain probably often shows other signs of major problems.
Ask the breeder of your puppy for help. If that does not solve the problems, ask your
veterinarian for the name and phone number of a qualified professional trainer who will
come to your home immediately and outline a program to follow and help you get your
dog under control.
Saluki
The Saluki is a Sight Hound.
Scottish Deerhound
The Scottish Deerhound is a Scent Hound.
Shih Tzu
The Shih Tzu is a breed that can easily be trained to use a litter box, paper, or outside
method. In fact, they are one of the few breeds that will happily use a combination of
methods or learn one and switch to another.
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia is a genetic defect of the kidneys common in Shih Tzus.
Symptoms you may see include excessive thirst and volume of urine, pale urine, weight
loss, lack of vigor, and intermittent loss of appetite.
Normal puppies drink approximately one ounce of water per pound of body weight daily
when eight to ten weeks of age, but dogs with severe renal dysplasia may drink as much
as five times that quantity (and then pee that much!).
Siberian Husky
This is another one of those breeds that like to run, so make sure his potty place is
fenced. Siberians are great escape artists who love to dig and to chew. It is advisable to
give them a place to dig to keep them occupied and happy and not digging under the
fence. They are independent and not necessarily obedient, so be especially consistent
with your housetraining expectations and routines to make sure they are fully trustworthy
in the house.
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Skye Terrier
The Skye Terrier puppy needs love and firm, intelligent training to ensure that is does
not become difficult to manage as an adult. He must be persuaded to obey but not by
using force. Housetraining may take extra long. (See the section on Toy Breeds)
During the first week in a new environment, the Skye should be ignored except for
attending to his eating and sleeping and exercise needs. Talk to him in a quiet voice and
let him make his own advances. Petting him and picking him up may meet with
aggression. Do not force him or rush him. Be patient.
Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia is a genetic defect of the kidneys common in Soft-Coated
Wheaten Terriers. Symptoms you may see include excessive thirst and volume of urine,
pale urine, weight loss, lack of vigor, and intermittent loss of appetite.
Normal puppies drink approximately one ounce of water per pound of body weight daily
when eight to ten weeks of age, but dogs with severe renal Dysplasia may drink as
much as five times that quantity (and then pee that much!).
Spinone Italiano
The Spinone can be timid if not properly socialized when it is 4 to 10 months old. It is
recommended that you pick up your puppy personally if purchased during this age frame
rather than having the puppy shipped to you.
In addition, if the puppy is kennel raised, he/she will be extremely fearful of "house
noises" and probably not be "potty" trained. Be sure to ask if the puppy was houseraised versus kennel-raised and find out all you can about any housetraining and
routines he may have had. Try to keep things status quo for your dog and you will find
he housetrains fairly easily.
Standard Schnauzer
Some Standard Schnauzer breeders will not sell a puppy to anyone who does not have
a fenced yard and others will require at least one non-working family member. The
hereditary instincts of their origins as a rat-catcher are extremely strong in many of
today's Standard Schnauzers so any rodent in your home or yard is not safe.
The Standard Schnauzer is a robust, exuberant dog who loves to play and needs daily
exercise. A fenced yard is highly recommended. If motivated (that is, if he sees a rabbit
when you let him out to potty), a Standard Schnauzer can jump a six-foot fence.
Tibetan Mastiff
This is a difficult breed to train since they are a primitive breed and slow maturers. They
are intelligent, independent, and somewhat aloof and used to making their own
decisions. Talk with the breeder about the best way to housetrain your dog.
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Tibetan Spaniel
The Tibetan Spaniel tends to be a nervous, high-strung dog who needs her household to
be calm and very routine-oriented. This is especially true with housetraining.
Weimaraner
Since the Weimaraner is a hunting dog, read about Sight Hounds.
West Highland White Terrier
West Highland White Terriers can dig under, climb, or jump fences if they see a squirrel,
cat, or rabbit. Read the terrier section on page 59. The West Highland White Terrier is
prone to polycystic kidney disease, so have your dog checked by a veterinarian if he
appears to be having problems with urinating.
Whippet
The Whippet is a Sight Hound. Whippets tend to become incontinent as they age, but
your vet can work with you to find the best medication to treat the incontinence. Once
you find the medication that works best for your dog, make sure you give it as directed
each day.
Yorkshire Terrier
Yorkies or Yorkshire Terriers belong to Toy Breeds. They can be one among the Top
Five breeds, which are "Hard to Housebreak." You should use crate training consistently
for 4 - 6 months.
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Chapter 7 - Health-Related Problems
If you suspect your dog has a health-related problem or if you are having a really hard
time housetraining, you need to have your dog checked out by a veterinarian. The
veterinarian may need to run a number of tests such as a urinalysis, blood tests, x-rays,
and an ultrasound.
Congenital Problems
Congenital means that the problem occurred in the formation of the puppy in its mother’s
womb. Therefore, the problem is present at birth. However, congenital does not mean
that it is a problem the puppy inherited. Many congenital problems can be dealt with
successfully with a surgical procedure.
Ectopic Ureters
One ureter normally connects each of the kidneys to the bladder. The kidneys filter the
fluids in the dog’s body and separate the waste fluids into urine. The urine is then sent
through the ureters to the bladder.
Sometimes one or both ureters are not formed correctly so they do not connect where
they are supposed to connect. Instead of the ureter opening in the bladder, it may open
in the urethra, vagina, or uterus. The result is constant dribbling of urine.
Surgery is required to treat this condition and usually solves the problem. However, the
dog may need to take some medication either short-term or long-term if there is still
some dribbling.
This is one of the most common congenital problems of the urinary tract of dogs. The
following breeds are most likely to have ectopic ureters (although any breed can have it):
Collie, Labrador Retriever, Miniature Poodle, Siberian Huskie, Welsh Corgi, West
Highland White Terrier, and Wire-haired Fox Terrier.
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia
Juvenile Renal Dysplasia is a genetic defect of the kidneys. It is most common in Shih
Tzus, Lhasa Apsos, and Soft-Coated Wheaten Terriers, but may be present in other
breeds.
The disease usually progresses in three stages. Stage one is the silent destruction and
loss of nephrons.
Stage two occurs when approximately 30% of functioning nephrons remain and clinical
symptoms (excessive thirst and volume of urine, weight loss, lack of vigor, and
intermittent loss of appetite) are first obvious. This stage may persist for months or
years.
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In stage three, vomiting, weakness, dehydration, and severe debilitation are added to
second stage symptoms, and result in death from renal failure (uremia).
Signs of renal dysplasia in puppies older than eight weeks are excessive thirst,
excessive volumes of urine, and pale urine.
Normal puppies drink approximately one ounce of water per pound of body weight daily
when eight to ten weeks of age, but dogs with severe renal dysplasia (over 35%
hypoplastic glomeruli) may drink as much as five times that quantity.
Urethral Sphincter Mechanism Incompetence
Urethral sphincter mechanism incompetence is the other most common congenital
reason for incontinence in dogs. Because the sphincter does not work properly, the dog
has not control over their release of urine, so they dribble or go at times and in places
you don’t want.
They may even run to the door while going because they realize they are urinating and
cannot help it.
Females do better with surgery than males. Phenolpropanolamine is a medicine that is
frequently given to help with control.
Patent Urachus
The urachus is the tube that connects a developing puppy’s bladder to its umbilical cord
while it is in its mother’s womb. Since the puppy cannot potty while in its mother’s womb,
the urachus removes wastes from the puppy’s system. After birth, the urachus is no
longer needed and normally shrivels up. If it doesn’t, it is called a patent urachus.
Fortunately, this is very uncommon in dogs.
As the puppy’s owner you will see urine dribble from the puppy’s belly button. This is
impossible to avoid. Your dog will be very susceptible to bladder infections. You will
need to have this problem solved surgically.
Urethral Diverticulum
From the bladder, urine goes through the urethra to the outside world. Urethral
diverticulum is the term used to describe an enlargement or pouch at any place in the
bladder or the urethra. Urine pools in this pouch, which leads to dribbling, problems with
feeling an urgency to pee, or problems with not being able to completely eliminate.
Infection may result as well. Your veterinarian will have to assess the situation and work
with you to try to solve it.
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Some other congenital problems are:
•
Bladder agenesis - failure to form a bladder
•
Bladder hypoplasia - small size and capacity of the bladder
•
Cystinuria in dachshunds
These and any others will have to be dealt with on a case-by-case status between you
and your veterinarian (and probably a veterinarian in a specialized practice).
Diseases and Medical Problems
Many diseases and other medical conditions can cause dribbling, incontinence, or
trouble urinating or completely voiding or eliminating. Only a veterinarian can diagnose
the problem through a number of tests (which may be costly). Then you and the doctor
will have to figure out the best solution for your dog.
Bladder Stones
Bladder stones form in some breeds more easily than in others. What you will see is
either incontinence or pain when urinating or that the dog will wait too long before
urinating because of the pain.
There are several types of bladder stones. Struvite stones form as a result of a bacterial
infection. If the dog has a tumor of the parathyroid gland or another type of cancer may
lead to the formation of oxalate stones.
Calcium oxalate stones can form if there is a kidney defect that allows more oxalate to
be secreted in the urine than normal. Some Schnauzers are born with a defect that
predisposes them to calcium oxalate or struvite stone formation.
Ammonium biurate stones can form in dogs with a liver disease. Urate stones form in
Dalmatians due to a metabolic defect. Some diets encourage stone formation.
Some bladder stones will dissolve with a special diet, which your veterinarian can
recommend, and monitor. If that has not succeeded in six weeks, your veterinarian will
probably want to remove the stones surgically. Your dog may need to stay on a special
diet even after the stones have been dissolved or removed. However, the urinary
incontinence should be solved.
Bloat
Bloat, which can occur in any large breed dog, is a twisting of a part of the digestive tract
so that the dog cannot swallow anything or get rid of anything. The dog will either roll a
lot or become lethargic as well as not being able to eat, drink, pee, or poop. It is an
emergency situation and requires surgery. Prognosis is not good.
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Cushing’s Syndrome
Cushing's Syndrome, or hyperadrenocorticism, is the production of too much
corticosteroids by the adrenal gland. If it is due to over administration of corticosteroids
such as prednisone, it is easily cured by slowly cutting down the amount of corticosteroid
being administered to the dog to allow the body to get back to normal. Incontinence is
one of the things you will see.
Natural causes of Cushing’s Syndrome are harder to pinpoint and often difficult to
control. 85% of cases are caused by a pituitary gland tumor that produces excessive
ACTH, a hormone that stimulates the adrenal gland to produce corticosteroids. The
other 15% of cases are caused by an adrenal gland tumor causing the adrenal gland to
malfunction and produce too much corticosteroid.
It is called a syndrome because there are many symptoms. All dogs with Cushing’s
display more than one symptom but the symptoms may be displayed simultaneously or
at different times or in varying combinations.
The most noticeable symptoms are the increased thirst, increased urination, increased
appetite, and panting. You may also notice hair loss or lumps in the skin or skin
infections. The veterinarian will probably be able to notice increased blood pressure,
heart problems, and various problems with the skeletal muscles and nervous system as
the disease progresses.
Initially blood tests will be used to diagnose Cushing’s disease. Then further tests will be
used to figure out the cause. Surgery by a specialist will remove an adrenal gland tumor,
giving dogs with that cause a very positive prognosis. However, a pituitary gland tumor is
another story as those tumors usually cannot be removed.
The present therapy is the use of Lysodren (a relative of DDT), which selectively kills the
outer layer of the adrenal gland. The idea is to kill only enough of it to keep the
production of corticosteroids at a normal level.
Finding the right amount is tricky, so you will have to watch your dog very carefully
during this treatment as any loss of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, or weakness
needs to be reported to the treating vet immediately.
There are some other medications that are used to treat symptoms. Life expectancy
after the diagnosis of Cushing’s Syndrome is significantly shortened.
Diabetes
Diabetes is a disorder that causes your dog to drink a lot of water and then pee a lot.
The kidney not making or secreting the proper amount of anti-diuretic hormone causes
it. When diagnosed, your dog will most likely have to be put on a special diet.
Diabetes is treated using desmopressin acetate (DDAVP), which is a replacement for
the anti-diuretic hormone. DDAVP administered intranasally or on the the inside lining of
the eyes (the conjunctiva). It is usually effective, but it is expensive. Some dogs benefit
from therapy with other medications. If the diabetes is bad enough, you will have to do
daily or twice-daily blood glucose testing and give your dog insulin by mouth or by shot.
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Nerve Injury Or Trauma
Nerve injury, especially to the back, can occur if your dog has been hit by a car or has
fallen or has been abused (especially hit or kicked). If any of the nerves to the urinary
tract are damaged, your dog’s ability to urinate or defecate will be impaired – they will do
it without knowing they are doing it or they will be unable to do it.
Sometimes the nerves will heal or regenerate if the damage is not severe, but in most
cases the incontinence will be an ongoing problem.
Consult with your veterinarian as to the best methods for managing this situation. Doggie
diapers may be a big help.
Small dogs that jump on to and off of couches and beds often hurt their backs. This is a
short-term injury, which will heal, but the dog may need pain medication or steroids for a
week or so during the healing process. Either the injury or the steroids will cause the dog
to have loss of control of their bladder and/or bowels.
This can be very upsetting for the dog that has never had an accident. Reassure your
dog that you are not mad and give him extra love and understanding. Using a potty pad
in or near his bed (or wherever he sleeps) and another one near a favorite daytime spot
might help him feel more comfortable and give him a place to go in a hurry when he
feels “out of control” or thinks he might be dribbling.
Spaying Incontinence
When a female dog is spayed, her ovaries and uterus are removed. There are
occasional instances of female incontinence after this procedure. This is not a result of a
problem with the surgery or the surgical process, but is a result of the ovaries being
removed.
Normally the ovaries release a hormone called estrogen. Estrogen works on muscles
and sphincters to keep them tones and conditioned. Without it, the bladder and the
sphincter allowing the passage of urine are relaxed and allow urine to dribble out as it is
made.
The treatment for this is to give your dog an estrogen tablet once a day as prescribed by
your veterinarian. Since this is a very rare happening and is easily and inexpensively
treated, the advantages of spaying far outweigh the risks.
Tumor
Dogs can develop tumors at many points along the urinary tract (or in the bowel). If that
is the case, the tumor will make it increasingly difficult to urinate (or, possibly defecate).
A tumor in your dog’s brain or spinal cord will also affect his ability to urinate or defecate
appropriately.
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Tumors may affect the muscle control or actually block the passage of urine or feces. If
the tumor is in the brain, it may affect the dog’s ability to know if he has to potty. Your
veterinarian will have to run tests to figure out what is going on and if there is a tumor.
Treatment will vary from your vet saying there is basically nothing that can be done and
probably recommending euthanizing your dog to possible radiation and chemotherapy to
surgical removal and medicine.
Urethral Obstruction
The urethra can be obstructed for a variety of reasons: swelling due to trauma or
infection, a bladder stone moving through it, a thickening of the wall of the urethra,
swelling of the prostate in a male, or a tumor either in it or along side it.
Your dog will be in great pain when he tries to urinate. If he does not urinate (because of
fear of pain) or cannot urinate, the urine will cause infection and then poison his body.
There may be dribbling of urine. Your dog may run a fever so that his nose feels hot and
dry to your touch.
If any of these occur, getting your dog to the veterinarian is an emergency.
Urethral Prolapse
Urethral prolapse is a condition, which occurs, occasionally in young male dogs. What
you will see may vary. Your puppy may lick his penis, or strain to urinate and you may
notice an enlargement or red bump on the end of his penis. Bulldogs are most likely to
have this. It is solved with minor surgery.
Urinary Tract Infection
Bacteria in the urinary tract will cause infection. The infection can be any place along the
urinary tract but most often occurs in the bladder or urethra. The longer the infection
goes untreated, the more of the urinary tract is affected as the infection travels through
the bladder, up the ureters, and eventually to the kidneys.
A urinary tract infection (UTI) must be diagnosed by your veterinarian from a urinalysis. It
is easily treated with antibiotics you give your dog as pills once or twice a day for 10
days or more.
At first the dog may feel the need to urinate frequently. However, she may only pee a
little or she may start and stop and appear to be in pain.
Urinary tract infection causes the dog to have pain (often a burning sensation) when he
or she pees. This will cause the dog to avoid peeing as long as possible. That, in turn,
will cause dribbling or incontinence. The urine may also stain the dog’s coat or cause
skin irritation.
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If your dog is in a lot of pain, the vet may also give you pain medication or antiinflammatory medicine to give your dog along with the antibiotic for a few days.
Medication Related Problems
Some medications cause problems for dogs in terms of being able to control their
bladder or sphincters. An example of such a medication is prednisone, a steroid that is
given for a number of situations. Steroids will cause the dog to appear incontinent
because it relaxes control of the smooth muscle of their bladder and/or bowels.
This can be very upsetting for the dog that has never had an accident. Reassure your
dog that you are not mad and give him extra love and understanding.
Using a potty pad in or near his bed (or wherever he sleeps) and another one near a
favorite daytime spot might help him feel more comfortable and give him a place to go in
a hurry when he feels “out of control” or thinks he might be dribbling. (If dribbling is really
bad, you can try a doggie diaper on your dog and see if he/she will wear it.)
Also, make sure he has access to his potty place every couple of hours if possible. If you
work all day, you may need to confine him (while you are gone) to a smaller portion of
the house where you can clean up dribbles easily.
The other problem that occurs is that many times these medications also make the dog
feel thirsty all the time, so they drink a lot more than usual and have to pee more often
along with having less control. Talk with your veterinarian about how much water a dog
the size of your dog should need in a 24-hour period.
For example, a 10-pound dog only needs about 2 to 2 ½ cups of water a day. Take that
number and divide it by four. (For 2 cups a day, that would be ½ cup.) Then every six
hours put only that amount of water out. When that is gone, your dog will have to wait for
the next portion at the next time.
Usually dogs will not drink every drop that is in their bowl because they fear not having
water later.
The water should be served with his meals, so you may need to adjust the schedule
slightly.
For example, if you normally feed your dog at 7:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m., then you would
give him water shortly before breakfast, at noon, and at dinnertime. In this case, you
would divide his daily ration into three portions of 2/3 cup each. Withhold water
completely starting two hours before bedtime and throughout the night. Do not be
alarmed if he does not drink all of his water.
Just a note: these medications also often make the dog feel like he is hungry more
frequently – or all the time! – so that he begs for food. He is not really hungry any more
than he is thirsty; it is just a feeling he does not know how to deal with except to eat or
drink. Do not feed him extra during the time he is on the medication.
Medications like prednisone are given only for a short time (no more than 10 days).
Steroids like prednisone are also given on a schedule of decreasing amounts. Because
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the level in your dog’s body is high from starting with a higher dose, the decreasing
dosage of medication may or may not affect the amount of urgency or dribbling.
As soon as the medication has not been given for 24-48 hours, the problem begins to
take care of itself. If it is a medication that your dog is going to be on for longer than 10
days, consult your veterinarian about reducing the dosage or trying a different
medication.
There are a number of medications that are linked to kidney failure. That does not mean
your dog will have kidney failure if he is on these medications, but if he has symptoms of
kidney failure (see kidney failure under Old-Age Problems in the next section) and is on
one of these medications, then your veterinarian needs to work with you in changing the
medication or adjusting it to help with the situation. Obviously, kidney failure is also a
problem of old age.
Some antibiotics associated with kidney failure are tetracycline at high dosages,
gentamicin, amikacin and most sulfonamides and sulfa-trimethoprim combination
antibiotics. Amikacin and gentamicin are the most toxic to the kidneys but are only
available as injections to hospitalized animals.
All non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications can cause kidney damage due to
constriction of blood vessels in the kidney: aspirin, carprofen (Rimadyl Rx), etodolac
(Etogesic Rx), phenylbutazone (Butazolidin Rx) and others.
Other medications that are linked to kidney damage are thiatarsamide (old heartworm
treatment medication), chemotherapy agents such as cisplatin, amphotercin-B
(antifungal agent), enalapril (Enacard, Rx; used for heart failure and sometimes to treat
kidney disease), methoxyflurane (anesthetic) and iodinated contrast dyes used to help
improve the ability to see problems on X-rays.
Old-Age Problems
Old age is not simply a chronological measurement of years lived by the dog, but a
measure of the function of the dog’s body systems as they are affected by aging.
Aging can be affected by a number of variables including genetics, nutrition, and
environment. It is important that you note any of the following symptoms and bring
them to the attention of your veterinarian.
These include changes in appetite or water consumption, changes in body weight
(weight gain or weight loss), or decreases in apparent vision or hearing. It is also
important to look for changes in your dog’s behavior.
Typical abnormal behavioral signs seen in elderly dogs include confusion or
disorientation, decreased activity, changes in the sleep/wake cycle, loss of housetraining
and decreased interest in you or their environment.
Below is a list of the most commonly seen changes in housetraining habits and abilities.
As you see one or more of these, work with your veterinarian to understand if it is a
symptom of something bigger or simply a problem of the urinary system or digestive
tract.
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Dribbling Urine
This is usually due to decreased tone of the bladder or sphincter. A veterinarian can give
you some medicines to try. Doggie diapers are a big help.
Unable To Urinate
This is probably due to a urethral obstruction, an infection in the urinary tract, or very
concentrated urine due to infection or not drinking enough. Get your dog to the
veterinarian.
Kidney Failure
This is common in older dogs and can become chronic with the dog living for a couple of
years after it is diagnosed if it is handled well and the dog responds well.
There are various symptoms that can be displayed by the dog: lethargy, loss of appetite
(and therefore, loss of weight), either more or less drinking than normal, increased (or
decreased) urinating, loss of interest in life and daily activities.
A urinalysis and various other tests are necessary to diagnose what is causing the
kidney failure and how serious it is.
The dog will continue to produce urine, but it may be more concentrated than normal
which means it may have a higher ammonia odor to it. The dog will not be able to
adequately filter out the toxins. Forcing fluids (often intravenously) is indicated to flush
the toxins from the body.
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Glossary
Adolescent dog – in large dogs, a dog of one year to three years and in small breeds, a
dog of one year to two years
Board – paying a kennel or vet to care for your dog during your absence
Bowel movement – poop, feces
“Business” – one of several possible words or phrases to teach your dog to get him to
potty on command
“Come” – the command to teach your dog to come to you – never use it to ask the dog
to come to you for punishment
Coprophagia – eating poop (the dog’s own poop or that of another animal)
Crate – a cage to put the dog in
Defecate – to poop, to have a bowel movement
Disapproving voice – a disapproving voice usually goes down the scale at the end of
the word or phrase (practice saying words like “naughty” or “no-o” in this way)
“Down” – this is the command for lying down; do not use this command to mean ‘get off
of furniture or people’ as it will be very confusing later
“Drop It” – a command to teach your dog to let go of whatever is in his mouth
Feces – poop, bowel movement
Fix – to spay a female or neuter a male
Flatulence – passing gas
“Floor” – a command to teach your dog to keep all four paws on the floor or ground
Happy voice – commands given in a happy voice usually go up the scale at the end of
the word or phrase (practice saying “good dog” or “what a good girl” in this way)
Harsh voice – a harsh voice usually is loud and commanding and lower on the scale
than your normal voice – never use a harsh voice with a dog
Housebreak – an older term for housetrain – it was used to mean “break the dog of
pottying in the house”
Housetrain – teaching a dog not to potty in the house, but to potty (pee and poop) in an
appropriate place (you have chosen)
“Hurry” – the command to teach your dog to potty quickly
Incontinence – dribbling urine or peeing wherever the dog is (unable to hold the urine
until an appropriate time)
Kennel – another term for crate or cage; can also refer to a place where many dogs live
or are boarded
“Leave It” – a command to teach your dog to leave things alone, to stop sniffing where
he is sniffing, to let go of something in his mouth, to not pick up something
Mark – to urinate (pee) on something to identify it as ‘belonging to me’ or to tell another
animal ‘I have been here’
84
Neuter – an operation, which makes a male dog unable to mate with a female to
produce puppies
“No Jump” – this is a command you can teach your dog to mean ‘do not jump on
people’
“Off” – a command you can teach your dog to keep him from jumping on people or to
tell him to get off of furniture
Pee – urinate, relieve himself or herself
Poop – defecate, have a bowel movement
Potty Place – the place you have chosen for your dog to go potty
Puppy – any dog less than a year old
Senior dog – large breed dogs over the age of 5 years and small breed dogs over the
age of 7 years are considered senior dogs
Spay – an operation that makes a female dog unable to produce eggs that can combine
with a male dog’s sperm to produce puppies
Stay – the command to teach your dog to not move from the spot
Urinate – pee
85
Learning About Your Dog
Here you will first find interactive links to web sites like the American Kennel Club (AKC),
The Continental [Canadian] Kennel Club (CKC), United Kennel Club of Great Britain
(UKC), etc. You can then either look at the breed sites from there or go to the specific list
below to find the web sites for each breed to learn more about the breed of your dog and
its characteristics. If you are having problems with housetraining or some other aspect of
dealing with your dog, also look at the rescue group web site listed below for the breed.
Many times they have web pages on problems and how to solve them.
The American Kennel Club - www.akc.org
The Continental Kennel Club - www.continentalkennelclub.com
The United Kennel Club - www.ukcdogs.com
The 154+ breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club are listed alphabetically with
the web site of the parent club and the web site of the rescue group. If you are having a
problem with housetraining your dog, start with the Rescue Group. Look at their web site
for information about housetraining. Then look for an e-mail address so you can talk with
a real person who has experience with the more difficult dogs of the breed. From there,
try the Parent Club web site and e-mails of breeders listed in the breed web site.
Breed
Parent Club
Rescue Group
Affenpinscher
www.affenpinscher.org
www.affenrescue.org
Afghan Hound
http://clubs.akc.org/ahca
www.afghanhound.net/
Airedale Terrier
www.Airedale.org
www.airedalerescue.net
www.airedalerescuegroup.c
om
Akita
www.akitaclub.org
rescuechair@akitaclub.org
Alaskan Malamute
www.alaskanmalamute.org
www.malamuterescue.org
American Blue Gascon
“Bluetick” Hound
American Eskimo Dog
American Foxhound
www.abgha.org
http://mywebpages.com
cast.net/jamarsch/aedc
a/index.html
www.americanfoxhoundclu
binc.com
tlcrescue@columbus.rr.com
http://foxhoundrescue.org
American Staffordshire
Terrier
www.amstaff.org
www.amstaff.org
American Water Spaniel
www.americanwaterspaniel
club.org/
www.americanwaterspaniel
club.org/Rescue/RescueHo
me.htm
Anatolian Shepherd Dog
www.asdca.org
www.asdca.org
86
Australian Cattle Dog
http://acdca.org
Australian Shepherd
http://www.australiansheph
erds.org/
Australian Terrier
www.australianterrier.org
Basenji
www.basenjiclub.com
Basset Hound
www.basset-bhca.org
Beagle
clubs.akc.org/NBC/
Bearded Collie
www.beardie.net/bcca
Beauceron
www.beauce.org
None presently
www.bedlingtonamerica.co
m
www.american-belgianmalinois-club.org/
http://www.bedlingtonameri
ca.com/rescue/index.htm
http://www.malinoisrescue.
org/
Belgian Sheepdog
www.bsca.info/
www.bsdrescue.com/
Belgian Tervuren
www.abtc.org
Bernese Mountain Dog
www.bmdca.org
Bichon Frise
www.bichon.org
Black and Tan Coonhound
www.abtcc.com
Black Russian Terrier
www.brtca.org
www.brtca.org/rescue.htm
Bloodhound
www.bloodhounds.org
www.bloodhounds.org/page
3/page15/rescuegroups.ht
ml#rescuegroups
Border Collie
www.bordercollie.org/
www.bcrnd.org/id27.htm
Border Terrier
http://clubs.akc.org/btcoa
http://clubs.akc.org/btcoa/re
scuefr.htm
Bedlington Terrier
Belgian Malinois
Borzoi
Boston Terrier
www.borzoiclubofamerica.o
rg
www.bostonterrierclubofam
erica.org
Bouvier des Flandres
www.bouvier.org
Boxer
www.americanboxerclub.or
g
87
lassic@telis.org
ARPH, Inc. or STAAR
(Second Time Around
Aussie Rescue)
http://austrailianterrier.org/r
escue.html
www.basenjiclub.com/?q=n
ode/3
http://www.bassetbhca.org/Finding/Rescue1.
htm or www.bbrescue.org/
http://clubs.akc.org/NBC/be
agle_rescue.htm or
http://www.brewbeagles.org
/giving-up.php
http://beardie.net/bcca/resc
ue.htm
www.abtc.org/adoptrescue.
htm
www.bmdca.org/pages/Res
cue.php
www.bichon.org/rescuefaq.
htm
www.coonhoundrescue.co
m/
www.borzoirescue.org
www.bostonterrierclubofam
erica.org/rescue.html
www.bouvier.org/ABRL/res
cue.html
www.americanboxerrescue.
org
Briard
www.briardclubofamerica.or
g
Brittany
http://clubs.akc.org/brit
Brussels Griffon
www.brussels-griffon.info
Bulldog
www.thebca.org/
www.rescuebulldogs.org
Bullmastiff
http://clubs.akc.org/aba/ind
ex.html or
www.bullmastiff.us
http://clubs.akc.org/aba/
Bull Terrier
www.btca.com
www.btca.com/rescue
Cairn Terrier
www.cairnterrier.org
Canaan Dog
www.cdca.org
Cardigan Welsh Corgi
www.cardigancorgis.com
www.cardiganrescue.org
Cavalier King Charles
Spaniel
www.ackcsc.org
Chesapeake Bay Retriever
www.amchessieclub.org
http://ackcsc.org/rescueinfo
.htm
www.amchessieclub.org/re
scue.html
http://www.chihuahuaclubof
america.com/rescue.htm
Chihuahua
Chinese Crested
www.chihuahuaclubofameri
ca.com
http://accc.chinesecrestedcl
ub.info/
www.briardclubofamerica.or
g/rescue/index.htm
www.americanbrittanyrescu
e.org
www.brusselsgriffonrescue.
org
www.cairnterrier.org/rescue
/
www.canaandogrescue.co
m/cdrn/index.htm
www.crest-care.com
Chinese Shar-Pei
www.cspca.com
http://www.cspca.com/resc
ue.htm
Chow Chow
www.chowclub.org
www.chowwelfare.com
Clumber Spaniel
www.clumbers.org
Cocker Spaniel
www.asc-cockerspaniel.org
Collie
www.collieclubofamerica.or
g
www.clumbers.org/CSCAre
scue.htm
http://www.asccockerspaniel.org/breed/res
cue.asp
http://www.collieclubofameri
ca.org/rescue.php
Curly-Coated Retriever
www.ccrca.org
http://www.ccrca.org/resQ1.
htm
Dachshund
www.dachshund-dca.org
Dalmatian
www.thedca.org
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
clubs.akc.org/ddtca/index.ht
ml
Doberman Pinscher
www.dpca.org
English Cocker Spaniel
www.ecsca.org
88
www.dachshunddca.org/rescue.html
http://www.thedca.org/rescu
e.html
http://clubs.akc.org/ddtca/fi
nding/rescue.htm
www.dpca.org/PublicEd/PE
C/PECRescue.html
www.ecsca.org/rescuehom
e.html
English Foxhound
www.foxhoundrescue.org
English Setter
www.esaa.com/
www.esaa.com/rescue.html
English Springer Spaniel
www.essfta.org/
www.essfta.org/essfta/resc
ue.htm
English Toy Spaniel
www.etsca.org/
None listed
Field Spaniel
clubs.akc.org/fssa/
clubs.akc.org/fssa/breedres
cue.html
Finnish Spitz
www.finnishspitzclub.org/
www.finnishspitzrescue.org/
Flat-Coated Retriever
www.fcrsainc.org
www.fcrsainc.org/rescue/in
dex.html
Fox Terrier
www.aftc.org/
www.aftc.org/#rescue
French Bulldog
www.frenchbulldogclub.org/
www.fbdcarl.org/
German Pinscher
www.german-pinscher.com/
www.germanpinscher.com/rescue.htm
German Shepherd
www.gsdca.org/
www.agsra.com/
German Shorthaired
Pointer
www.gspca.org/
www.gsprescue.org/
German Wirehaired Pointer
www.gwpca.com/
Giant Schnauzer
www.giantschnauzerclubof
america.com/
Glen of Imaal Terrier
www.glens.org/
Golden Retriever
www.grca.org
Gordon Setter
www.gsca.org/
Great Dane
www.gdca.org
Great Pyrenees
http://clubs.akc.org/gpca
Greater Swiss Mountain
Dog
www.gsmdca.org/
Greyhound
Harrier
www.greyhoundclubofameri
ca.org/
www.harrierclubofamerica.c
om/
Havanese
www.havanese.org/
Ibizan Hound
www.ihcus.org
Irish Setter
www.irishsetterclub.org
Irish Terrier
www.itca.info
89
www.gwpca.com/phpBB2/a
dverts.php
www.giantschnauzerclubof
america.com/Rescue/index.
htm
www.grcanrc.org/Localrescues.htm
www.gsca.org/Rescue/resc
ue.html
www.gdca.org/rescue.htm
http://clubs.akc.org/gpca/gp
caresq.html
www.gsmdca.org/Rescue.h
tm
www.greyhoundclubofameri
ca.org/rescue-gcoa.html
www.harrierclubofamerica.c
om/rescue.html
www.havanese.org/hcaRes
cue.htm
www.geocities.com/Heartla
nd/Pointe/2446/rescue.htm
www.irishsetterclub.org/con
tents/rescue/rescue.html
www.dogbiz.com/itca/
Irish Water Spaniel
clubs.akc.org/iwsc/
Irish Wolfhound
www.iwclubofamerica.org
Italian Greyhound
www.italiangreyhound.org
Japanese Chin
www.japanesechinonline.or
g/
http://www.iwclubofamerica.
org/
http://www.italiangreyhound
.org/rescue/default.htm
www.japanesechin.org/html
/rescue.html
Keeshond
www.keeshond.org
www.keeshond.org/
Kerry Blue Terrier
www.uskbtc.com
Komondorok
http://clubs.akc.org/kca/
Kuvasz
www.kuvasz.com
Labrador Retriever
www.thelabradorclub.com
Lakeland Terrier
http://uslakelandterrier.org
Lhasa Apso
www.lhasaapso.org
www.lhasaapsorescue.org/
Löwchen
www.thelowchenclubofame
rica.org
http://www.thelowchenclubo
famerica.org/page10.htm
Maltese
www.americanmaltese.org
www.americanmaltese.org
Manchester Terrier
http://clubs.akc.org/mtca/in
dex.htm
Mastiff
www.mastiff.org
http://www.geocities.com/m
yamtc//rescue.html
http://mastiff.org/exhibithall/rescue/
Miniature Bull Terrier
www.minibull.org
www.minibull.org/rescue.ht
m
Miniature Pinscher
www.minpin.org
www.rescueminpins.com
Miniature Schnauzer
http://amsc.us
http://amsc.us/rescue.html
Neapolitan Mastiff
www.neapolitan.org
www.neorescue.net/
Newfoundland
www.newfdogclub.org
http://www.ncarescue.org/
Norfolk and Norwich Terrier
www.norwichandnorfolkterri
er.org
Norwegian Buhund
www.buhund.org/
http://www.norwichandnorfo
lkterrier.org/rescue.html
www.buhund.org/other/basi
c_rescue.html
Norwegian Elkhound
www.neaa.net
Nova Scotia Duck Tolling
Retriever
www.nsdtrc-usa.org
Old English Sheepdog
www.oldenglishsheepdogcl
ubofamerica.org
Otterhound
http://clubs.akc.org/ohca
90
http://clubs.akc.org/iwsc/
www.uskbtc.com/category.
php/9
http://clubs.akc.org/kca/kca.
htm
http://thelabradorclub.com/r
escue/
http://uslakelandterrier.org/
Default.aspx?tabid=66
www.neaa.net/rescue.shtml
www.nsdtrcusa.org/rescue.htm
www.oesrescue.com/index.
html
http://clubs.akc.org/ohca/O
HCA-rescue.html
Papillon
www.papillonclub.org
http://clubs.akc.org/ohca/O
HCA-rescue.html
Parson Russell Terrier
www.prtaa.org/
www.prtaa.org/rescue.html
Pekingese
www.pekingeseclub.org
Pembroke Welsh Corgi
www.pembrokecorgi.org/
Petit Basset Griffon
Vendeen
www.pbgv.org
Pharaoh Hound
www.ph-club.org/
Plott
Pointer
www.akc.org/breeds/plott/in
dex.cfm
www.americanpointerclub.o
rg
Polish Lowland Sheepdog
www.aponc.com
Pomeranian
www.AmericanPomeranian
Club.org
Poodle
www.poodleclubofamerica.
org
Portuguese Water Dog
www.pwdca.org
Pug
www.pugs.org
Puli
www.puliclub.org
Pyrenean Shepherd
Redbone Coonhound
http://www.geocities.com/py
rshepclub/
www.akc.org/breeds/redbo
ne_coonhound/
Rhodesian Ridgeback
www.rrcus.org
Rottweiler
www.amrottclub.org
Saint Bernard
www.saintbernardclub.org
Saluki
www.salukiclub.org
Samoyed
www.samoyed.org/SCA/ind
ex.htm
Schipperke
www.schipperkeclubusa.org/
Scottish Deerhound
www.deerhound.org
Scottish Terrier
http://clubs.akc.org/stca/
Sealyham Terrier
http://clubs.akc.org/sealy
91
www.geocities.com/Heartla
nd/3843
www.pembrokecorgi.org/re
scue.html
www.pbgv.org/PBGVCA/Co
mmittee/rescueFrameset.ht
ml
www.phclub.org/rescue.htm
None presently
www.pointerrescue.org/
www.aponc.com/rescue_ad
option.html
www.americanpomeranianc
lub.org/rescue_contacts.ht
m
www.poodleclubofamerica.
org/usamap.htm
www.pwdca.org/rescue.htm
l
www.pugsavers.com/ or
www.pugs.org
www.puliclub.org/PCAResc
ue.htm
None presently
None presently
www.ridgebackrescue.org/
www.rottrescue.org/national
_list_rott_rescue.html
www.saintbernardclub.org/r
escue.htm
www.saluki.net/rescue/inde
x.html
www.samoyedrescue.org/
www.schipperkeclubusa.org/RegionalRescueCo
ntacts.pdf
www.deerhound.org/rescue
.shtml
http://clubs.akc.org/stca/res
cue.htm
http://clubs.akc.org/sealy/se
archtips.htm
www.assa.org/Rescuefiles/r
escue
www.shibas.org/rescue.htm
l
www.shihtzu.org/ASTC/res
cue.asp?menu=ASTC
Shetland Sheepdog
www.assa.org
Shiba Inu
www.shibas.org/index.html
Shih Tzu
www.shihtzu.org
Siberian Husky
www.shca.org
Silky Terrier
www.silkyterrierclubofameri
ca.org
Skye Terrier
http://clubs.akc.org/skye/
Soft Coated Wheaten
Terrier
www.scwtca.org
Spinone Italiano
www.spinone.com
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
clubs.akc.org/sbtci/
Standard Schnauzer
www.standardschnauzer.or
g
www.spinone.com/frHealth.
htm
live.sbtca.com/site01/index.
php?option=com_wrapper&
Itemid=51
www.standardschnauzer.or
g
Sussex Spaniel
www.sussexspaniels.org
No rescue contact
Tibetan Mastiff
www.tibetanmastiff.org
www.tibetanmastiff.org/HT
MLfiles/Rescue/TMrescue.h
tm
Tibetan Spaniel
www.tsca.ws
Tibetan Terrier
www.ttca-online.org
Toy Fox Terrier
www.atftc.com
Vizsla
http://clubs.akc.org/vizsla
www.atftc.com/rescue.html
Weimaraner
www.weimclubamerica.org
www.cafepress.com/weimr
escueshop
Welsh Springer Spaniel
www.wssca.com
Welsh Terrier
clubs.akc.org/wtca/
www.wtcares.org/
West Highland White
Terrier
www.westieclubamerica.co
m
www.americanwhippetclub.
net
www.westieclubamerica.co
m/rescue/
www.whippetrescue.com/roster.html
www.awpga.com/fr_hunt_it
_up.htm
www.siberianrescue.com
http://clubs.akc.org/skye/ht
ml/rescue_news.html
Swedish Vallhund
Whippet
Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
www.awpga.com
Yorkshire Terrier
www.ytca.org
92
www.ttca-online.org/cgibin/rescue.pl
www.ytca.org/rescue.html
Various Helpful Pet Web Sites
www.abka.com
The web site for the American Boarding Kennel Association - ABKA members offer a
variety of services for your pet including grooming, training, pet transportation, shipping,
pet supplies, food sales, etc. ABKA offers information and publications.
www.apbc.org.uk
Web site for the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors- an international network of
experienced and qualified pet behaviour counsellors, who, on referral from veterinary
surgeons, treat behaviour problems in dogs, cats, birds, rabbits, horses and other pets.
www.avma.org
Web site for the American Veterinary Medical Association- the association representing
more than 69,000 veterinarians working in private and corporate practice, government,
industry, academia, and uniformed services.
http://www.avma.org/communications/brochures/dog_owners.asp
Brochures on dog health issues
www.holisticvetlist.com
A searchable database of vets offering holistic medicine techniques such as
acupuncture, chiropractic, herbal remedies, and homeopathy
www.petsitters.org
Learn about or find a pet sitter
www.vet.com
A compendium of various animal and pet resources
www.vetinfo.com/indexpage.html or www.vetinfo4dogs.com/dogindex.html
A compendium of information about vets, medicines, diseases and disorders, and health
maintenance of dogs
www.vetquest.com
A listing of more than 25,000 veterinarian hospitals and clinics in the USA, Canada, and
Europe
93