Gambero Rosso

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trebicchieri
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To each
his own
#Lambrusco
lambrusco:
a world of
sparkling
differences
VERTICAL TASTING:
ribolla opoka
2
pag.
pairing:
EGGPLANT PARMESAN
5
pag.
6
pag.
MOLISE:
A FOODIE
DESTINATION
GAMBERO ROSSO
WORLD TOUR
8
pag.
14
pag.
Lambrusco
A world of sparkling differences
The success of this wine in recent years is the
outcome of a heritage that turns into story-telling
by Giorgio Melandri
and an opportunity to bond with the soil. Now that it
has passed through its season as an ‘industrial’ wine,
After conquering market success and the
lambrusco today has a truth to fall back on. Looking
world’s palates, Lambrusco, once considered towards the past, you see the faces of peasants
a minor variety, has become the symbol of
peering out from Emilia’s fogs. A world of rites and
an area synonymous with Italian flavor. An habits has been jealously preserved by families and
identity made up of differences
by trattorias. “Thirty-four million bottles, annual
growth at 5%, a battle won over bottle fermentation
andscape tells a wine’s first story: the
in the zone for an IGT rating, a Modena DOC that
body of its territory, the home and
gets better all the time. These are the steps to success
community that house its soul. In Emilia, in
that we read as an affirmation of our identity, placing
the lowlands marked by river banks and up the hills
us among popular wines that are winning out thanks
that hide the valleys and along the roads that climb
to the values of another time, healthy and devoted to
high, crossing villages and bridges, our trip frames
the land.” These are the words of Pierluigi Sciolette,
the wine’s identity. The people are generous and
president of the Consorzio Marchio Storico (Historic
welcoming, but inevitably, it’s the vine variety that
Brands) of Modena’s Lambrusco. “Finally, the prices
emerges. That’s when Emilia shows it is something
for grapes have gone up, the community of producers
else, a world of differences that add up kilometer
can talk at last about a new generation taking
after kilometer until true identities
over, of land that didn’t betray them and
emerge. It’s true for the cities, for
can provide a future for the young. This
the small towns, it’s true for the
is worth more to us than recognition,
people of Emilia that describe
than the growing number of
their diversity with a smile,
awards coming to a territory like
considering it a value and
ours,” agrees Davide Frascari,
not a distancing element.
president of the Consorzio for
Lambrusco is the peasant
the protection of Lambrusco
child of this people.
Reggiano. We take a trip around
Over the centuries they
the region to show differences, to
have
recognized
its
showcase
a wine that is amazing
personalities and directed
the world with its original character
them with cultural practices
and the ancient farm values of Emilia.
and traditional good sense.
2
SPECIAL
L
Lambrusco di Sorbara
Little tannin, great acidity. A nervous, thin lambrusco
that can carry the palate for kilometers with the
power of tension and fantastic rhythm. The territory
of this wine is Modena’s plains, on the valley side of
the Via Emilia, in the loose soil around the Seccia
and Panaro Rivers. Called Sorbarese until the 1950s,
it was one of the Italian wines exported around the
world in the first half of the 20th century. It comes
from grapes of the same name, considered difficult
by growers, but extraordinary in the cellar.
Pairing: Tortellini in broth.
Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
Lambrusco Salamino
di Santa Croce
It is cultivated in the dry soil of the high plain and
the hills of Modena, where the backdrop of the
Apennines and Monte Cimone frames a soft,
beautiful landscape. This variety develops more
character little by little as it travels towards the poor
soils of the higher hills (sandy or marl clay and scaly
clay enclosing limestone blocks of every dimension).
In general, it is the most rustic lambrusco, its peasant
soul. Biting tannins, creamy mouth, dark color and
good fruitiness, often with mineral elements.
Pairing: Tigelle (similar to pita) and fried
gnocco (bread)
Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce owes its name to
the village of the same name, part of the municipality
of Carpi. Apparently, this so-called frazione was the
center for the distribution of this vine variety around
the Modena province and its neighbors. The soil of
this flat land is very fertile and very ancient. Over time
it has accumulated sediment left by the flooding of
many rivers and brooks that cross the plain of
Modena from south to north. Sand, mud and clay are
present all over this territory in about equal amounts.
Salamino finds elegance, freshness, and austere,
profound fruitiness in this soil.
Pairing: Cotechino di Modena.
SPECIAL
EN
PRIMEUR
3
Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa Lambrusco
Different types of lambrusco can be included in
this denomination (in particular, those made
from Montericco and Grasparossa grapes,
which have a denomination of their own,
and others from Maestri, Marani, Salamino
and Barghi grapes). The denomination
refers to the territory of origin, which
produces wines that have always been
elegant and fresh, ideal companions for
local cuisine. They are often made with
grape blends, in the zone’s traditional style.
Pairing: pumpkin ravioli, English trifle
for the amabile (semi-sweet) version.
Reggiano lambrusco
Lambrusco di Modena
The historic mention of Modena or ‘of Modena’
dates back to the mid-19th century. It referred to a
production method that consisted of blending
various lambrusco varieties traditionally cultivated in
the Modena province. The wine this made was called
Lambrusco di Modena, since it was the capital city
of the province. The distinctive character of the wine
led to the creation of a specific DOP. It is a balanced
lambrusco, close-knit and clenched with a nose
hinting at pears and apples, violets and petunias.
Pairing: Tagliatelle with meat sauce,
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Reggiano Lambrusco is an ancient wine from a wild
variety that Roman writer Cato the Elder mentioned
in his book De Agri Cultura written about 160 BC.
He describes vitis labrusca that grows spontaneously
from seeds and whose long branches entwine
themselves in elm, maple and poplar trees. At the
end of the 16th century, the name Lambrusca no
longer refers to the wild vine, but to a particular
group of grape varieties with the same origins and
similar characteristics, that produce a typically
bubbly beverage. Reggiano is a rough and fruity
wine, powerful and full of character, substantial and
dense in the mouth.
Pairing: greens and Parmigiano focaccia, boiled
meats.
SPECIAL
4
Ribolla Opoka:
biography of a signature wine
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
S
lovenian wine is a continuous
discovery, thanks to the
characteristics of its terroirs
and to ongoing experimentation by
producers with passion and energy.
Take, for example, Marjan Simčič.
The winery is in the small town of
Ceglo, in the Slovenian hill zone of
Goriška Brda, near the border of
Italy and the Friuli region. Among
the winery’s top labels is Rebula Opoka
from older vineyards, Medana Jama, Jordano and
Brege, about fifty years old, planted in soil rich in marl,
or opoka, near Brda. Cultivation is natural, which
means no synthetic products, only manual harvesting,
and maceration for about 36 hours. The wine then ages
in oak barrels of 225 or 500 liters, without carrying out
complete malolactic fermentation. Bottling takes place
when the moon is waning, without any clarification or
filtration and with very low levels of sulphites added.
The first vintage year was 2006.
The first version has all the signs of a
settling down phase. The wine in the glass
is a wild horse, with evident slightly lactic
notes, a major tannic presence and cutting
acidity that seems to run along on its own.
A year later, the 2007, is completely different.
The color is a deep amber, with slightly
orange highlights. The nose displays hints
of arbutus honey and toasted bread. The
palate is dense, mouth-filling, with notes
of toasted nuts well balanced by tastier,
almost briny tones that give rhythm to
a wide-ranging and complex wine.
Next, we come to Ribolla Opoka
2008 (Ribolla is Rebula here),
a champion label. The nose
is a symphony of aromatic
herbs, of rosemary and
thyme, of hay and
chamomile.
Marjan Simčič
The mouth is fresh
and energetic with an iodine tone.
It has structure and vital energy for a
long finish with great freshness. A wine
that will age well, it has at least ten
brilliant years ahead. The 2009 shows
a warmer soul, riper fruit and hints
of cream and apricot balanced by a
more evident tannic note. The palate
is almost chewy, but not tired, with
savory notes and a smoky finish. The
final sensation is actually of sesame.
Finally, the 2010, a mere child, with citrus tones still
closed up on the palate, but it hints at all the energy
of this vintage. Each year the wine is different and
authentically itself. If you are looking for wine with a
distinctive identity, this is your place. Here you will find
outstanding mineral structure, delicately bitter tension
from maceration, marked acidity and great rhythm in
the mouth, all qualities perfect for food-friendly wines.
Vina Simčič
Ceglo 3b, 5212 Dobrovo v Brdih
Tel: +386 5 395 92 00 | www.simcic.si
WHERE TO EAT
LA SUBIDA
Via Subida, 52, 34071 Cormons Gorizia
Tel. 0481 60531 | www.lasubida.it
trattoria blanch
V. Blanchis 35
Mossa (GO) | Tel. 0481 80020
Pri Lojzetu
Dvorec Zemono,
5271 Vipava, Slovenija
| Tel. +386 (0)5 368 70 07
www.prilojzetu.si
EN PRIMEUR
VERTICAL
5
Eggplant Parmesan,
simplicity and flavor
by Giulia Sampognaro
P
armigiana
di
melanzane,
parmesan, is one of
Italian
or
eggplant
cuisine’s best
loved recipes. It has a role in every season,
served cold or hot, summer and winter.
The instinct of the cook in putting together
eggplant, Parmigiana di melanzane, or eggplant
parmesan, is one of Italian cuisine’s best loved
recipes. It has a role in every season, served cold
or hot, summer and winter. The ingredients are
few, and they leave a lot to the instinct of the cook
in putting together eggplant, buffalo mozzarella
and tomatoes. Above all it’s a dish that is happy
alongside a wide range of wines. We tried pairing
it with twenty wines, and in particular with lowtannin reds served chilled from the refrigerator, at
a temperature of not more than 15°. Here are the
eight best pairings we found.
THE RECIPE
Long, medium-sized eggplants, tomato purée (passata di pomodoro), buffalo mozzarella,
grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, an onion, flour, egg, basil, olive or peanut oil for frying.
The ingredients are simple, but preparation takes a bit of time. Begin the day before, slicing the
eggplant lengthwise and leaving the slices covered with coarse salt . When ready to cook, fry
the flour-dusted eggplant lightly in abundant oil. Then layer all the ingredients alternately in a
casserole so that the colors of eggplant, tomato and mozzarella create visual harmony, mozzarella
on top. Bake until bubbly and brown. There are many variations on this theme, but all show a
remarkable ability to enhance the varietal character of wine.
XXXXXXXXXXXX
PAIRING
6
A.A. Pinot nero Trattmann Riserva 2010
Rosso del Soprano 2011
Girlan
A tempting nose, with blackberry and sour cherry
that lead into a deep, full palate. The mouthfeel
is taut and lively, juicy and sumptuous, thanks to
red berries on the opening that yield to spices,
then fine, docile tannins.
Palari
A sumptuous and sensual wine, at the same time
fresh and elegant. Cherry and blueberry create an
excellent mix with Mediterranean brush made up of
oregano, rosemary and eucalyptus, with a long
sulfurous note.
Pairing: 9+
This is the wine that goes best with the single
ingredients and then with an entire mouthful,
leaving a sense of seductive succulence. Food and
wine enhance each other, stimulating emotions that
begin in the belly, move on to the head, and return to
the body even more intensely. A bolt of lightning.
Pairing: 9
Food and wine go hand in hand tenderly, then
passionately, developing paired flavors that soon
produce a third one, elegant but visceral. Less
direct than the Pinot Nero, but not less appealing.
A.A. Valle Isarco Riesling Kaiton 2012
A.A. Lago di Caldaro Leuchtenburg 2012
Kuenhof
Flintstone aromas fire off a range of fragrances
from sweet and citrusy fruit to white flowers,
then a round, assertive palate, long and
pervasive.
Erste+Neue
Cherry juice with mineral notes that lend even
greater depth. Monovarietal Schiava provides a
wonderfully lively drink, but also balanced
elegance. A perfect wine for summer evenings.
Pairing: 8½
An unusual match: the aromatic notes on the
palate open to an excellent combination that
creates a third, complex identity with a lightly
smoky touch.
Pairing: 8A very physical pairing, convincing in its
succulence. It pleasantly enhances the lightly
bitter note of the eggplant.
Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay 2012
Il Frappato 2011
Adelaide Hills
A label from Australia, a winemaking project
of two Masters of Wine. The profile on the
nose displays still-evident notes of toast, but
the palate is surprising for its tension and
the citrusy freshness of lemon and grapefruit.
Good fruitiness and a broad finish that is
more dynamic than the nose first suggested.
Occhipinti
An exceptional nose and a flavorful body in this
Frappato: berries, aromatic herbs, and a very
elegant spicy touch. A tasty glassful, but at the
same time, smooth and vibrant.
Pairing: 7½
Not a perfect pairing on the aromatic level,
but it goes ahead with such vivacity that it
finally wins us over. A strong pairing, beginning
with the citrusy notes and then the wood that emerges
mid-way on the palate. But it’s the energy that is truly
assertive.
Pairing: 7½
An entertaining play of flavors between the
eggplant dish and the wine, producing a third,
sweet and sour flavor. A very pleasant pairing,
but perhaps a bit staid on the finish.
Brut Cl. Farfalla
COF Pinot Grigio 2012
Ballabio
One of the best versions of a sparkling,
metodo classico wine from the Oltrepò Pavese
zone. It offers a varied and fine aromatic
range with structure, elegance, minerality,
full-flavor and a nervous, long, and pervasive
streak.
Torre Rosazza
A splendid Tre Bicchieri wine in which soft, fruity
notes of apple and ripe pear combine well with
acidity that gives length and depth.
Pairing: 7½
The best sparkling wine in our test. The Pinot
nero enhances the sweetness of the tomato,
enlivening the palate and letting the eggplant show
itself, keeping its somewhat bitter note off to the side.
Pairing: 7½
Unusual and pleasant meeting between the wine
and the buffalo mozzarella from the eggplant
dish, creating a very appealing smoky note.
PAIRING
7
photo by Alan Katovitz
Events?
Gambero Rosso
World Tour 2014/2015
by Lorenzo Ruggeri
T
he fall months herald the start of the
grape harvest and the new Gambero Rosso
international wine event season. The great
fairs and tastings begin, and with them the travels of
Italian producers intent on showcasing their wines on
the principal marketplaces of an increasingly global
sector. The Italian home market does not show many
signs of revival, but it does seem to be stabilizing. At the
last Vinitaly fair in April, there was some encouraging
news, but winemakers’ energies are mostly directed
abroad. The United States and Germany seem like
market certainties, but there are many unknowns
in the rest of the world. Optimism is powerful,
though. Gambero Rosso is planning over 25 events
to accompany and present the best Italian producers
all over the globe, starting with the Roadshow. This
year the series is revamping its itinerary. The tour
will start in Istanbul to test the interest in the West
to be found on the shores of the Bosphorus. Then,
the Roadshow goes on to Osaka. A stop in Taipei for
the first time follows, with Beijing right after. Houston
and Mexico City close the show, to give continuity to
the great experiences of last year. The Tre Bicchieri
events, centered around the best wines of the year as
judged in our guide, are true celebrations of Italian
excellence. The Vini d’Italia tour is open to all wineries
that have been selected in Vini d’Italia guide, for which
tastings are now going on, Italy-wide.
While all this work is in progress, the question
arises: is there such a thing as international taste?
What is the influence of foreign sales on Italian wine
styles? Are there common characteristics among those
wines that are successful abroad? Ten years ago, there
was a general feeling – wonderfully presented in the
2004 film Mondovino – that globalization would
lead to a progressive uniformity in taste, and even a
loss of the world’s viticultural heritage. International
taste came to mean wine that was subject to invasive
technical handling, constructed wines with flavor
that was predictable from year to year. International
taste equaled intense fruit and new wood, wines that
pandered to what was seen as foreign demands. But
instead, as we see, that moment passed. It is true that the
palates in newer markets not accustomed to drinking
wine generally prefer sweeter wines. But the level of
sophistication about Italian wine is growing rapidly
everywhere. In Italy today we think, as do many other
European wine-producing countries, that producing
an international wine means making something
EN PRIMEUR
EVENTS
8
unique that reflects its territory. International wines
come from producers who have a broad vision of the
world, understand what other countries are marketing
and what other people’s tastes are like. But their own
wines need a history, a raison d’être, a specific taste to
present on a world stage. Above all, they must offer
their bottles at a competitive price. Accessibility is one
of the strongest factors in the present-day market.
At the same time, we believe that sustainability will
become a standard feature of wine production, and not
something worthy of special mention.
To sum up, this opening of Italian wine to the world
seems to have reinforced the identity of Italian wines,
hastening the rescue of old vineyards and long-ignored
heritage varieties; it has increased the importance of
the territory’s influence on the wine in the glass. If
Italian wine exports continue to grow faster than those
of other countries, it means that consumers everywhere
perceive this upward shift in quality. The next phase is to
interpret the attraction of Italian style, and investigate
the dynamics that contribute to the formation of taste
and wine-drinking habits in individual nations. We
have to take note of the evolution of wine production in
various countries (in this area, Italian wine journalism
is still provincial), shape our communication/media
approaches, survey the markets, follow up on personal
contacts all year long. The role of the wine journalist
has changed and so have the lives of wine producers.
photo by Alan Katovitz
EN PRIMEUR
EVENTS
9
L’Affaire Giroud: vigneron and
hacker. The viticulture mystery of the
summer?
by Loredana Sottile
Switzerland, tax evasion and hacking. The ingredients are in place
for a new viticulture mystery for the summer, the strange case of
Dominique Giroud, the most famous grapegrower of Switzerland.
He was arrested for having tampered with the computers of two
journalists of broadcaster Radio Television Suisse and the newspaper
Les Temps. The situation is now known around the world as l’Affair
Giroud. To understand it, we have to go back three years, when the
vigneron was accused by national newspapers of massive tax evasion,
following renovation of his wine facilities. That began an angry debate
with the press that ended in suspicions of hacking aimed at eliminating
news about Giroud. He and three others, a private investigator, a
professional hacker and a Federal secret agent who apparently helped
him, were arrested. But the investigation might lead to new revelations
which would involve the Canton du Valais’ entire grapegrowing sector.
Allegedly, before Giroud’s arrest, the president of the producers’ and
wine merchants’ association of the canton, Paul André-Roux, resigned
from his post without apparent motivation. In the light of what
followed, some believe he was forced to resign because Giroud was
allegedly involved in another fiscal matter together with grapegrower
Cédric Flaction. The two were accused of excessive or irregular cutting
of the wines they sold. So a real Swiss viticulture mystery is in the news,
although Valais state official Jean- Michel Cina urges the media not to
demonize the entire sector.
First trimester exports slowing, while
spumante strides ahead
The first trimester of 2014 slowed for Italian wines. Exports were stable
at 4.7 million hectoliters (-2%) with an increase in value a little over the
3% of a year ago. As far as volume goes, the positive note is that the
downward trend is less marked than in earlier years, while profits are
influenced by changes in production costs (-20%). Spumanti, however,
are doing well, as Ismea points out, with +18% in quantity exported
and + 19% in value, thanks to Prosecco, which grew 38%, in particular
in the USA and the United Kingdom. Sales in Germany have slowed.
Bulk wines lost 6% in quantity and 13% in value, due to a less expensive
Spanish product massively present on the market and to less demand
from Germany. Bottled wines showed +1% in volume and +5% in
value, again thanks to Germany, which made up the decrease in the
USA. Inside Italy, purchases in chain supermarkets fell. Wine overall
lost 4.5% in quantity and 1.4% in value. Here, spumanti did not do well,
with -11% in volume and -5.4% in value. G.A.
Forecast for the
Veneto: grape harvest
is 15-20 days early
It is undoubtedly a reason to be
proud and celebrate the gain that
Prosecco production made over that
of Champagne in 2014. According
to Ovse (Osservatorio Vini Spumanti
Effervescenti) Prosecco production
exceeded that of Champagne by 3
million bottles (307 versus 304 – see
chart). But if we look at the euro
value, any comparison with the French
seems pitiful. Champagne is worth,
at its origin, four times more than
Prosecco, and that relationship is almost
identical at the consumer level. One
consolation, perhaps, can be found in
comparison with Spanish Cava. “The
Prosecco-Champagne difference,”
observes Giampietro Comolli, head
of Ovse, “clearly cannot be bridged.
But perhaps Prosecco’s success stems
from this advantage. It’s not a quality/
price ratio, but identity/value, two
parameters that raise the price level at
the origin. Prosecco might make strides
forward and in 5-7 years manage to
double that of Cava. But it requires a
unified strategy all along the line and a
single pathway, plus the fielding of more
resources, including the contribution of
foreigners. That’s what happened with
Champagne and what is happening for
Cava as well.”
NEWS
XXXXXXXXXXXX
10
White
on white
by Stefano Polacchi
Mozzarella, Fiano and Asprinio d’Aversa;
spring is the best time for tasting them
together
T
Campania region near
Paestum is the mozzarella road. It produces
one of the country’s most important dairy
products, one that every cheesemaker in the world
would like to imitate. In his restaurant, Nonna
Sceppa, Raffaele Chiumento tells us about some
of the best mozzarella made in Paestum. “The
differences between one dairy and another are many.
Perla del Mediterraneo, for example, has a slightly
smoky taste, almost like hazelnut. Rivabianca is
clean and delicate, and the most popular today.
Another is Bufalara di Barlotti: fat and succulent.
But a short time ago I discovered the Roberta dairy
in Fisciano, near Salerno, outside the classic circuit.
They make a splendid mozzarella, full and juicy with
a compact, springy texture. The ideal companion for
mozzarella is Fiano. In particular, I’d choose Kratos
made by Maffini, Valentina from Rotolo and Vigna
Perella made by De Conciliis. Certainly, though,
with a mozzarella that is so full and succulent, like
the one Bufalara makes, I’d go for a red: a Gragnano,
if we want to stay in the zone, or else a Lambrusco
or Raboso…”
his corner of the
We get another point of view about white on
white from Rosanna Marziale, the young chef
at the Colonne restaurant in Caserta: “Here we
traditionally pair mozzarella wth Asprinio di Aversa.
We could also move to Falanghina to have something
more aromatic, or to a more structured Pallagrello.”
Although mozzarella is versatile in the kitchen,
Raffaele Chiumento believes that its true nature
is revealed on its own: raw, fresh, juicy. “The first
and second day, you can confidently eat it fresh,” he
points out, repeating a popular saying. “The third
day is up to you. Eating it on the fourth day means
that you don’t deserve it. It reminds you that a
buffalo mozzarella can’t be left to wait for four days.”
So , when’s the moment to eat it? And how? First
of all, as Raffaele underlines, mozzarella must not
be put in the refrigerator, no matter what the law
demands. “Cold ruins it, melts the fats and degrades
the consistency of the cheese,” he explains. “It’s
true that you put it into the Styrofoam containers to
insulate it, but in general you do so to protect it from
the cold of the refrigerated truck!” Another hint
comes from Ettore Bellelli, a model milk producer
on his agriturismo, Tenuta Seliano, in Paestum, and
the supplier of Bufalara di Barlotti. “I like it better
on the second day, and preferably in the half-kilo
size. Mozzarella should be squeaky on the outside
and layered inside,” the producer explains. “Don’t
slice it. Break it with your hands, not a knife.”
Rosanna Marziale says “According to where you
taste it, mozzarella has different characteristics. For
example, that from the Caserta zone is juicier and
more savory, while the one from the Cilento is drier
and less salty. But, differences apart, for me, for us,
11
EN PRIMEUR
TRAVEL
mozzarella is something unique, a universe of its own.
It’s like the embodiment of the emotions of infancy,
with its milkiness that fills the palate, almost like a
return to the womb. For us, mozzarella is everything,
a fantasy, a perfect flavor. As many tourists come to
Paestum for the mozzarella as come for the Temples.”
ADDRESSES
Dairies
Where to sleep
Newcomers
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Tenuta Seliano di Ettore Bellelli
| tel. 0828 723 634 | www. agriturismoseliano.it | double
70/90 euros
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | La Locanda del Mare |
via Linora | tel. 0828 811162 | double 60/170 euros
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Savoy Beach | via Posedonia, 41 |
tel. 0828 720100 | double from 90 euros
Giungano (SA) | Domus Laeta | via F. Gioia, 1 | tel. 0828
880177 | double 90/120 euros
Eboli (SA) | Caseificio Lettieri | s.s. 18 bivio di Santa
Cecilia | tel. 0828 1992 663 | caseificiolettieri@tiscali.it
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Crocamo Latteria Aziendale |
loc. Gromole | via Eliseo 16
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Il Tempio | loc. Gaudo
Borgonuovo | tel. 0828 851707
Capaccio Paestum (SA)| Masseria del Guacchio | via
Spinazzo, 32 | tel. 0828 1897336
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Il Granato | loc. Spinazzo s.s.18
km 96, 500 | tel. 0828 722712
The classics
Presenzano (CE) | La Fenice | s.da Vadopiano, 5 |
tel. 0823 989372
Fisciano (SA) | Roberta | via Faraldo, 20 | tel. 089 826224
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Barlotti | via Torre di Paestum, 1
| tel. 0828 811146
Capaccio Paestum (SA)| Masseria Lupata | via Porta Marina
| tel. 0828 722002
Capaccio Paestum (SA)| La Perla del Mediterraneo | loc.
Ponte Barizzo via Provinciale | tel. 0828 871097
Capaccio Paestum (SA)| Rivabianca | via Strada Statale, 18
| tel. 0828 724030
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Tenuta Vannulo | c.da Vannulo |
via G. Galilei | tel. 0828 724765
Capaccio Paestum (SA)|
Torricelle | via Torricelle, 1 | tel. 0828 811318
Wineries
Castellabate (SA)| Luigi Maffini | c.da Cenito | tel. 0974
966345
Prignano Cilento (SA) | Viticoltori De Conciliis | loc.
Querce, 1 | tel. 0974 831090
Rutino (SA) | Alfonso Rotolo | loc. San Matteo | tel.
338 383922
Quarto (NA) | Grotta del Sole | via Spinelli | tel.
0818762566 | www.grottadelsole.it
Teverola (CE) | Cicala 1886 |
via Roma, 268 | tel. 081 811 8103 | www.cicalawines.it
Lusciano (CE) | I Borboni | via E. De Nicola, 7 | tel. 081
814 13 86
where to eat
Caserta | Le Colonne | v.le
G. Douhet, 7 | tel. 0823 467494 | closed tuesdays; open
at lunch only | cost 65 euros
Mercato San Severino (SA) | Casa del Nonno 13 |
F. Caracciolo, 13 | tel. 089 894399 | closed sunday
evenings and tuesdays | cost 55 euros
c.so
Eboli (SA) | Il Papavero | c.so G. Garibaldi, 112 | tel.
0828 330689 | closed sunday evenings and mondays | cost
40 euros
5
Battipaglia (SA) | La Fabbrica
Sapori | via Spineta, 84c | tel. 0828 630021 | closed
mondays; in summer open evenings only except for sundays |
cost 15 euros
dei
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Brezza Marina | loc. Laura | via
F. Gregorio, 42 | tel. 0828 851017 | always open | cost 40
euros
Capaccio Paestum (SA) | Nonna Sceppa | loc. Laura, 45 |
0828 851064 | closed thursdays; always open in summer
| cost 45 euros
tel.
Getting there
by car: A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria, exit at Eboli or Battipaglia.
by train: to Salerno; from piazza della Concordia three
buses for Paestum every hour.
by plane: from Naples airport, Cosat (www.cosat.it)
buses leave for Paestum
TRAVEL
12
Inside my glass
T
his month we inaugurate Inside my glass, a
new column dedicated to some of the most
refined palates of the globe.We start with the
suggestions of Leah Bickford.
Hailing from Vancouver Island, Leah is the Corporate Client Manager & Buyer for Italy at Marquis
Wine Cellar which we is one the finest Private Wine in Vancouver store with an oustanding selection of
Italian wines. Leah is focused on small producers, always hunting for crispy and terroir-driven wines. Let’s see her tips.
Vermentino di Gallura Vigna’Ngena 2012 Capichera
I like how Capichera uses the Gallurese dialect to name their wines. Vigna’Ngena
means “someone else’s vineyard”. Fruit for this wine came from rented vineyards
the family now own. I’m crazy about vermentino from the north of Sardegna
and Vigna’Ngena is no exception. The combination of freshness, minerality and
concentrated fruit is impressive. I was lucky enough to first taste this wine in Sardegna
with local seafood and it was a combo and meal I won’t forget. The nose is delicate
with minerality, citrus, orange blossoms, and apple which are also displayed on the
palate. It’s juicy, with an elegant texture, complex and concentrated but by no means
sweet. Love!
Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2013 Azienda Agricola Manenti
I’m excited by the wines that I have been tasting from Sicily and since freshness is
something I crave, Manenti was a clear favourite. The colour is a beautiful and bright
ruby red with violet flashes. On the nose this wine has lifted, fresh and very pretty
aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, minerality and violets. I love the texture and freshness
this wine has on the palate. Fruit is compact and tannins are well integrated and chewy
making it very gulp-able ;o) It is tough to articulate in words, but this wine is very alive
and clean on the palate. It felt like there was a dance in my mouth! I would enjoy
slightly chilled.
Chianti Classico "Campitello" Ris. 2011 Monteraponi
I always look forward to tasting the new releases from Monteraponi as I think very
highly of the estate and the wines produced here. The 2011 Campitello may be one of
the best I have tasted. It is intensely perfumed with aromatics of anise, earth, plum,
dark berry, cherry, and chocolate. There is a denseness to this vintage and it is full and
round on the palate but balanced with fresh acidity. I would describe this vintage as a
more decadent style but the freshness and minerality is consistent each year.
Campitello 2011 is approachable and I think ready to drink in a couple of years.
INSIDE MY GLASS
13
Molise,
a foodie destination
treasures and for the beauty of its medieval center.
The most noteworthy restaurant in the city is Miseria
photography and text by Massimiliano Rella
and Nobiltà, belonging to the Palazzo family, with a
Molise, a forgotten region, is now finding its kitchen run by women only, led by Maria Assunta
voice through the flavors and warmth of a Palazzo and her mother Rosa. Try, for example
new generation of wine, olive oil and cured tricolored gnocchi (spinach, tomato concentrate and
meat producers, but also of chefs and pastry white) with asparagus, smoked pancetta and ricotta
di scorza nera (slightly dried, aged ricotta) or delicate
chefs.
rabbit slices with native apples, annurche. Together
hey offer quality, authentic products
with other Campobasso restaurants, the Palazzo
and a warm welcome from the Molisani family founded an association I Ristorici. “The idea
themselves, who only at the start, may came from the need to organize and respond to the
seem a little reserved. Until now, only a passageway ongoing economic crisis,” explains young Simona
to somewhere else, Molise has all the potential of De Castro, owner of another restaurant, Monticelli,
a real destination, a region to explore and savor and of the elegant B&B Palazzo Vecchio. “We are
slowly. Our trip begins in the province of Isernia, in united by the work we do,” she continues, “and
Monteroduni, one of the first towns we find coming aim at showcasing Molise’s cucina and enlivening
off the Rome-Naples highway. We stop at the Valerio the historic center with culinary events.” It is in
winery, owned by 40-something architect Antonio the center, then, that we find De Castro’s bed and
Valerio. He gets the credit for having restored to life breakfast, in a vintage building furnished in an
the only denominazione d’origine of the province, eclectic way, a blend of liberty and rustic, curated in
Pentro DOC. A newcomer to the wine world, loving detail. It is connected to the restaurant where
Valerio releases six labels (100,000 bottles). Quality Simona takes on the role of chef every evening,
on its own, though, is not enough, so in 2011 he preparing a lighter, updated cucina. Among the other
opened the restaurant Vale, with a lovely view over specialties are excellent Tintilia ice cream and extrathe vineyards and an authentic menu. “We thought virgin olive oil from the gentile di Larino cultivar.
of it above all to present our wines in an appropriate After olive oil, the most interesting sector is that of
way,” Valerio told us, “filling a vacuum in a territory wine, produced largely on the Molise coast. Here in
that has few restaurants.” As a matter of fact, to Campomarino, we meet the Di Giulio family, owners
find a restaurant that isn’t just a basic country eating of Borgo di Colloredo and the exquisite renovated
place, we have to drive as far as Campobasso, one solar powered farmhouse, Masseria Le Piane. They
of southern Italy’s coldest cities, located 700 meters own 60 hectares of vineyard, produce 11 labels and
(2,300 ft) above sea level and close to the Apennine concentrate on tourism, with tastings and hospitality,
Mountains. It’s worth a visit for its generous culinary well furnished bedrooms, a glamorous swimming
14
EN PRIMEUR
TRAVEL
T
pool among the vineyards and home style breakfast.
“In general, enological Molise has taken giant
steps forward both in terms of quality and in wine
tourism,” Enrico Di Giulio asserts, “We believe in
this territory and we want people to explore it in the
best of ways.” The Terre Sacre winery emphasizes
country style hospitality. They are located on the
hills of Montenero di Bisaccia, the town famous
for ventricina, a local cured salami made with top
quality Italian pork, chopped by hand and flavored
with hot chili pepper, extra-virgin olive oil, salt and
wild fennel before being stuffed into casing. The
winery is linked with the Il Quadrifoglio farm, which
consists of 400 hectares, 43 of which are vineyards. Il
Quadrifoglio is also an agriturismo with a restaurant,
swimming pool, bedrooms, vegetable patches, pigs,
cured meat production and winery. “We receive
3,000 visitors a year, numbers are growing and now
we have a person in charge of hospitality,” young
Alfredo Pallavino tells us. “Having tastings paired
with food and the cucina is a formula that works.”
Even in a region a little forgotten like Molise, passion,
initiative and youthful energy manage to bring it out
of the shadows.
VENTRICINA AND THE MEATS OF THE
TRATTURO
Premium meat from Italian pigs, cut by hand and
flavored with hot red chili pep- per, extra-virgin olive
oil, salt and wild fennel before being stuffed into casing:
these are the ingredients of the most traditional local
cured meat, ventricina. Rino Salvatore Rusciano, a
butcher from Montenero di Bisac- cia, prepares it in
sweet and hot versions, without additives, and dries it
in front of a wood-burning fireplace. Price 28€ per kilo.
viale dei Borghi 55. tel 0875.96232 – 967119). At the
Bottega delle Carni, butcher shop belonging to Antonio
and Michele Natilli, located since 1967 on Corso Bucci
in Campobasso, we find meat from the Consorzio
Carni dei Tratturi. The animals are registered at birth
and raised along the ancient transhumance paths, fed
only with healthy products overseen by Agroqualità
and butchered in places authorized by the Consorzio.
Corso Bucci 31/33, Campobasso, tel 0874.415237
WHAT TO SEE IN CAMPOBASSO
The Cathedral of San Pardo
The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in piazza della
Prefettura, with its elegant neoclassic façade, is the
principal religious building in Campobasso. Begun in
1504 and damaged in the earthquake of 1805, today
we see it as it was rebuilt and reopened in 1829. The
medieval streets of the center lead to the beautiful
Romanesque church of San Leonardo, in the piazza of
the same name. But the most important construction is
Castello Monforte, a massive fortification restored in
1458 to repair the damage from an earthquake two
years before. Dominating the city, it has the remains of
the drawbridge and defensive towers. Open to the public
except Mondays, 9.30-12.30, 15.30-18.30. Free.
(turismo.provincia.campobasso.it)
15
TRAVEL
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL IN MOLISE
Extra-virgin olive oil is one of Molise’s excellent
agricultural products. In Larino, La Casa del Vento,
the organic farm of Pasquale di Lena, grows the local
gentile di Larino, salegna and san Pardo cultivars,
processing them in the continuous-cycle olive mill of
the cooperative, Olearia Larinese. The olives are
pressed within a few hours of picking and the product
is conserved at a constant temperature. (Contrada
Monte, Larino, tel 0874.824030). In Col- letorto, a
village with ancient olive oil traditions, Giorgio Tamaro
grows, without using pesticides, the indigenous
rumignana and nera di Colleredo cultivars. The oil is
pressed in the modern mill with Pieralisi continuouscycle machinery belonging to the Socci family, which
manages the cooperative Molisana Agroambientale.
Outlet in Termoli, via Po 92, tel 0873.81703.
ADDRESSES
Giorgio Tamaro in his olive grove
Di Majo Norante | C.Da Ramitelli 4|Campomarino
RESTAURANTS
Vecchia Trattoria Da Tonino | Corso Vittorio
Emanuele Ii 8 | Campobasso | tel 0874.415200 | www.
vecchiatrattoria datonino.com | closed mondays, and
evenings on tues., wed., sunday | average bill 50€, tasting
menus 27€ and 42€
Miseria E Nobiltà | via Sant’antonio Abate
16 | Campobasso | tel 0874.94268 | www.
ristorantemiseriaenobilta.it| open at lunch, closed
sundays | average bill 50 € without wine
Il Quadrifoglio | Contrada Montebello |
Montenero Di Bisaccia (Cb) | tel 0875.960191 | www.
agriturismoilquadrifoglio.net | average bill 25€ without
wine
Ristorante Monticelli | Via Monticelli 6 | Campobasso
| tel 0874.418460 | www.ilpalazzovecchio.it | open for
dinner only, closed sundays| average bill 35€ without wine
wineries
(Cb)| tel. 0875.57208 | www.dimajonorante.com
Borgo di Colloredo | Contrada Zezza 8 | Campomarino
(Cb) | tel 0875.57453 | www.borgodicolloredo.com |
visits and tastings reserve ahead
Cantina Valerio | Loc. Selvotta | Monteroduni
(Isernia)| tel 0865.493043 | www.valeriovini.it | visits
and tastings reserve ahead
Terresacre | Contrada Montebello | Montenero Di
Bisaccia (Cb) | tel 0875.960191| www.terresacre.net |
5€ with 2-3 wines
tasting
Where to sleep
Agriturismo I Dolci Grappoli | Contrada Ricupo 13 |
Larino (Cb) | tel 0874.822320 | www.cantineduva.com
double and breakfast from 55 to 75€
Masseria Le Piane | Contrada Zezza, 8/B |
Campomarino (Cb) | tel 0875.57453 | www.
masserialepiane.it | double and breakfast from 80 to 110 €
Masseria La Guardata | C.Da Guardata |Termoli (Cb)
| tel 0875.689225 | www.laguardata.it | double and
60€ to 90€
breakfast from
Il Palazzo Vecchio | via Sant’antonio Abate 32 |
Campobasso | tel 0874.198089 | www.ilpalazzovecchio.it
| double and breakfast 35-40€ per person
Pastry shop
Caffè Pantheon |Via Mazzini 9 | Larino (Cb) | tel
Campobasso, The Monticelli Dining Room
0874.822666
brisotti | corso vittorio emanuele ii 45 | campobasso | tel
0874.787133 | www.caffebrisotti.it
TRAVEL
16
NE
W
worldtour 2014/2015
trebicchieri
INTERNATIONAL
EVENTS
Gambero Rosso
Vini d’Italia
tour 2014/2015
CALENDAR 2014
OCT
NOV
dec
JAN
3 november
FEB
3 february
SHANGHAI
MIAMI
trebicchieri
Vini d’Italia
5 november
MAR
apr
MAY
HONG KONG
JUN
2 march
1 june
trebicchieri
trebicchieri
VANCOUVER
SYDNEY
4 june
5 february
TORONTO
trebicchieri
NEW YORK
trebicchieri
CALENDAR 2015
trebicchieri
9 june
SAINT PETERSBURG
Vini d’Italia
10 february
CHICAGO
trebicchieri
STOCKHOLM
SAN FRANCISCO
trebicchieri
14 january
trebicchieri
15 may
BEIJING
Roadshow
18 november
21 april
HOUSTON
MOSCOW
trebicchieri
Roadshow
24 april
MEXICO CITY
january 2015
25 november MUNICH
Vini d’Italia
ZURICH
Roadshow
Vini d’Italia
october 2014 27 november
WARSAW
ISTANBUL
Roadshow
Vini d’Italia
29 october
OSAKA
HELSINKI
Vini d’Italia
trebicchieri
Vini d’Italia
ROME
Vini d’Italia
GUANGZHOU
15 january
OSLO
18 october
Roadshow
13 may
14 march
DÜSSELDORF
COPENHAGEN
Vini d’Italia
11 june
TAIPEI
12 january 12 february
Vini d’Italia
11 may
february 2015
LONDON
Vini d’Italia
Roadshow
31 october
TOKYO
trebicchieri
INFO: worldtour@gamberorosso.it
tel. +39 06 55112234
www.gamberorosso.it
Official Logistic Partner
wine buy of the
month
Poggio Tura 2010
Vigne dei Boschi
2,000 bottles
Ex-cellar price 13 euros
http://www.vignedeiboschi.it
This month’s wine brings
us to Emilia Romagna, near
the town of Brisighella, to
meet one of the zones upand-coming producers. Paolo
Babini’s sensitivity has helped
him bring focus to wines in a
style made of complex light
and dark shades, never boring
in their language, and the
result of years of patience,
experimentation, perseverance,
and intuition. The vineyards
are located in the Lamone river
valley, with marly sandstone
soils at the edge of the woods,
a major presence in this high
part of the valley. The most
interesting estate project is
the Sangiovese Poggio Tura,
made from a vine produced by
collecting grafts from hundredyear-old plants in the valley.
This open, multifaceted wine
is minerally, subtle, and full of
energy and flavor. Poggio Tura
’10 expresses its territory
with crisp blackberries,
earthy notes, and a fresh
hint of violets. The salty,
vibrant palate is terrific: full
of energy, taste, all grip and
vitality. Long, long, finish.
This outstanding wine
can easily compete with
the best sangiovese from
Tuscany.
RESTAURANT of
the month
La Baita
Via Naviglio, 25c
Faenza (RA)
www.labaitaosteria.it
twitter dixit
Jancis Robinson
@JancisRobinson
The Baita has held on to the
warm and cozy atmosphere it
had at the start. It began as
a grocery store, then evolved
into a fine foods emporium, and
finally became a restaurant. It’s
all thanks to Roberto Olmeti,
known as Robertone, who knew
how to keep his business up
to date with the best products
from home and abroad. At the
center of the project is a topnotch wine bar, with excellent,
varied choices and fair prices.
His selection brings together
the best Sangiovese labels of
the zone, both small producers
and celebrated ones. He can
appeal to the passing tourist as
well as the local wine fan who
can count on a supply of new
quality offerings of, for example,
Lambrusco di Sorbara or a cuvee
of Champagne. A wide choice
of cured meats and cheeses, all
excellent and carefully curated,
is always on hand, as are
delicious warm piadine –
filled, pita-like bread. Try the
wonderful homemade pasta,
such as tagliatelle or farfalle
(bowtie) or sample a local
version, spoia lorda, pasta
filled with porcini mushrooms
and truffles. Among the
main dishes are sliced
beef with asparagus and
scorzone truffles and roast
kid with potatoes. Excellent,
housemade desserts.
editor
Lorenzo Ruggeri
ruggeri@gamberorosso.it
Dealer
Poster Pubblicità
poster@poster-pr.it
cover photo
Consorzio Marchio Storico dei
Lambruschi Modenesi
Gambero Rosso Holding spa
Via Enrico Fermi 161
00146 Rome (Italy)
What is a somm?
VinePair
http://vinepair.com/wineblog/wine-enthusiastsdestroying-sommelier/
Jon Thorsen@
ReverseWineSnob
Int Wine &
Food Soc. @
IWFSAmericas
Pic of the day: Another
#funny
#wine
#comic!
August 2014
ADV Director
Franco Dammicco
dammicco@gamberorosso.it
NEWS&TRENDS
ESTERI
18