Adding the Lowest Octaves to The Pontiac Solstice

Installing
Installing
Fabrication
Fabrication
Adding the Lowest Octaves to
The Pontiac Solstice
Sean Young and Brian Mobley of
Sound Solutions met the challenge of
bulking up the sound system in the
lacking-for-space Pontiac convertible.
By Rob Elliott, executive director,
In Car Experts Inc. (ICE)
The Pontiac Solstice is proving to be a popular vehicle amongst those who want a free-flowing and fun driving experience. Fortunately
for us, the factory audio system leaves much to be desired. Once the top is down, the sound, and specifically the bass, is gone. In Car
Experts (ICE) retailer Sound Decision in Montgomery, Ill., has a solution. Sean Young (pictured left) and Brian Mobley managed to
squeeze two JL Audio 10-inch woofers behind the seats, resulting in quite a bit of bass that easily fills this tiny vehicle.
Here is the behind-the-seat area of the Solstice after the seats, carpet and rear panel have been removed.
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Here is a close-up of the passenger’s side. Notice the indent. This is where the
factory subwoofer goes in the premium sound system.
Here is a close-up of the driver’s side. Notice the lack of indent unlike what is found
on the passenger’s side.
In order to get sufficient air volume for the desired woofers, more air behind the
seats is required. In order to get this air, a hole was cut to the exterior of the vehicle
and air from outside was used. The hole was cut to the shape of the original indent.
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Fabrication
The cutout piece from the passenger’s side was then traced onto the driver’s side and
the same shape was cut out.
Observe closely after the holes are cut. You should be able to see the ground through
the holes.
Unlike most fiberglass enclosures, this vehicle’s protective housing needs to be
built to ensure that the outside is sufficiently sealed from the inside. Here you see
masking tape used to provide the shape for the exterior housing. It is always
important to make sure that your shape does not end up bigger than the opening
otherwise you will not be able to remove the housing in one piece.
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Next, foil is laid on top of the masking tape to ensure that the fiberglass that will be
laid can easily be separated.
Duraglas is then laid on top of the foil and acts as the housing structure.
Now the actual removable enclosure can be laid inside your housing to ensure an
exact fit. Here you can see one taped up and ready to act as the mold, and the other
starting to cure.
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Installing
Fabrication
Here are the finished backs of the enclosures, once they are
removed from the housing that acted as the mold.
The exterior housing was then secured into place and sealed to
the vehicle with OEM quality, gray body panel sealer. Before it
was permanently mounted, the outside was also sprayed with
vehicle undercoating.
Here is the rear of the enclosure being test fit into one of the
exterior housings.
Next, a standard enclosure is constructed out of MDF and lined
up to the extra air pocket that was constructed.
Duraglas is then used to secure the fiberglass enclosures to the
rear of the MDF sub boxes. The faces of the enclosures are
then secured to the MDF enclosures.
The factory panel is then put back into place and a shape is cut
out that will later be covered by decorative panels. The reason
such a large shape was required is because the factory panel
had indents in those areas and, in turn, was not flat.
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Decorative panels are then cut out and ready to be wrapped in
vinyl.
The decorative panels are held in place by the same screws
that hold the grilles and woofers to the enclosure. This also
secures the factory panel in place.
Do you have a unique fabrication method? A time-saving
technique? A favorite plan to tackle a common (or uncommon)
request? Want to share with the industry?
Take digital photos of the process and contact info@me-mag.com!
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Tech Tips
Sound Damping Techniques in the Scion xB
Robert Davidoski, install manager for Mobile One in Houston, Texas, sent in pictures
showing his store’s procedure for getting the most out of an audio system using sound
damping material. He says that it is an important part of improving the sound of any car
stereo, and the steps below can improve the effectiveness of your process.
Remove all of the factory lining and the
factory harnesses. Wipe the door skin
down with Acetone to remove any
debris or loose particles.
To improve door speaker’s sound, make
templates of the three holes in the door
skin out of cardboard.
Use Dupli-color spray-on bedliner to help
prevent water damage to the exposed side
of the Masonite.
Add silicone to the edges of the holes then press the inserts into place.
After a few minutes, start covering the
door with mat. Try to cover the area
with one large piece.
The roller end of the tool is not the only
useful part. The handle helps a lot on the
smaller edges and curves.
Transfer the patterns to a piece of
Masonite (available at the local
hardware store).
Remove the factory tabs holding the
wire harnesses and use small strips of
mat to secure the wiring to the door.
Got tech tips? Got questions?
Post them on the Vehicle Information Forum at www.InstallerCentral.com!
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Firsthand
2007 Infiniti FX35: Route n’ Run Rear-Seat Video
By Rob Elliott, Executive Director, In Car Experts Inc.
The FX really started the whole sport crossover phenomenon, and it’s the
installer’s job to finish the FX with the missing goodies. Michael Harootunian of
AudioMax Inc. in Walpole, Mass., installed Myron Davis preloaded monitor
headrests. He notes that when installing these particular headrests, it is
important that you route each monitor’s cables so that they each reach the same
central point in the vehicle.
Pop off the hard backed rear seat cover.
This is done by pulling the bottom of
the cover until the clips are unsnapped
and then sliding the piece downward.
There are two white hook clips at that
release the top of the seat cover. These
need to be released to allow access to
the bottom of the post channel.
Once unclipped, Mike used his die
grinder to make an exit hole in the
bottom of the headrest post channel
for the cable to slide through.
Place the headrest into its factory channels
and feed the monitor cable out through
your newly made hole. Mike tie-wrapped
foam around the cable to protect it from
chaffing and also tiewrapped the cable to
the seat structure.
Lift the plastic trim at the bottom of the
seat to route the wires. Pop off the
plastic seatbelt panel and remove the
one hidden Phillips screw. There are two
more screws in the same panel on the
front portion of the seat. Once all three
screws are removed, the panel can be
pulled away and any harnesses
unplugged.
Once the trim is lifted out of place,
your cables can follow the factory
cables to ensure that they are not
altered in any way when the seat
moves.
Notice Mike followed all of the factory
harnesses.
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MOBILE ELECTRONICS J u n e 2 0 0 7
Mike points
out that the
spot that is
best-suited
for both the
driver’s and
passenger’s
monitor
cables to
come
together is
to the right
of the gas
pedal
behind the
center
console’s
carpet.
Mike mounted the monitor’s power
box above the driver’s kick panel and
tapped constant power and ignition
at the FX’s ignition harness at the
base of the steering column.
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Firsthand
2007 FJ Cruiser: Amp Under the Seat
By Rob Elliott, Executive Director, In Car Experts Inc.
Today’s amplifiers have decreased in size, but it is up to the installer to take advantage of this. The best way is to take advantage of an
unused portion of the vehicle, such as the space under the front seats. Michael Harootunian of AudioMax Inc. in Walpole, Mass.,
reminds us of just how easy it is to make this happen. He suggests that if any airbag harnesses need to be unplugged, make sure that
the vehicle’s battery is disconnected.
Unbolt the seat from the car. In the FJ
there are two bolts in the front and two
bolts in the rear.
Unplug any harnesses from the seat. The
FJ has an airbag in the seat so make sure
it is unplugged after the battery is
disconnected. Lean the seat back against
the rear seats and position the amplifier.
Carefully lower the seat back into place.
With someone seated in the seat, move
the seat to all of its possible positions
while checking for amplifier clearance.
In the FJ, Mike did not have quite
enough clearance for the height of the
amplifier. In order to gain extra
clearance, the factory rear air vents
needed to be removed. These vents are
easily removed by placing your hands
in the vents and pulling straight. Be
sure to tape off the vents so no air is
lost.
With the vents removed the TMA
amplifier now fits in place nicely. Notice
the removed vent sitting to the left.
The amplifier ground can be made very
close to the amplifier. Notice how Mike
sanded the metal and also used two
screws to ensure that the ring terminal
cannot spin and loosen.
Mike also pointed out that the best way
to access a path to the rear of the factory
radio is to remove the glovebox and run
your wires accordingly. Mike ran all of
his signal wires down the center console
in order to keep them away from his
power wires.
One slit in the FJ’s vinyl floor and the
seat bolted back in place and we have
what almost looks stock.
Run all of your necessary wires to the
factory headunit. Notice in the very
bottom left of the picture, the location
that Mike chose for the TMA subwoofer
volume control.
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Firsthand
2007 GMC Acadia: Control
Module Heaven
It’s always great when you don’t have to
go all over a car to pick up wires. Robert
Davidoski of Mobile One in Houston,
Texas, says most of the wires on GM’s
new SUV are found at one of two spots:
the Body Control Module (BCM) or the
Liftgate Control Module.
Dave also points out the spots for the
factory XM Satellite Radio receiver, as well
as the Engine Control Module and the
factory BOSE amplifier. See the rest of the
images on pages 70 and 71.
Description Color
Pol
Location
Plug Color
Pin #
12V Constant
Red / White *
(+)
Body Control Module
Blue Plug
Pin 3
12V Ignition
Pink
(+)
Body Control Module
Green Plug
Pin 14
Starter
Yellow **
(+)
Engine Control Mod
Blue Plug
Lock
Orange / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Gray Plug
Pin 12
Unlock
Pink / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Gray Plug
Pin 11
Parking Lights
Brown / White
(-)
Body Control Module
White Plug
Pin 8
Doors LF
Gray / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Pink Plug
Pin 10
RF
Tan / White
(-)
Body Control Module
Pink Plug
Pin 8
LR
Blue / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Pink Plug
Pin 15
RR
Green / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Pink Plug
Pin 14
Horn Trigger
Tan
(-)
Body Control Module
Brown Plug
Pin 18
Hood Pin
Pink / Black
(-)
Body Control Module
Black Plug
Pin 18
Trunk Pin
Gray
(-)
Liftgate Control Mod
Black Plug
Liftgate trigger
Gray / Black
(-)
Liftgate Control Mod
Black Plug
* 10 amps maximum current
** Not to be used for remote start applications
Have your own firsthand information? Share your knowledge! Send an e-mail to info@me-mag.com or post your information at
InstallerCentral.com.
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The Body Control Module is located to the left of the
steering column. It is accessible from the access panel
under the driver side dash. The plugs are all facing at
you when lying on the floor.
The Liftgate Control Module is located in the driverside rear jack access panel, above the jack. The plugs
are facing down.
The Engine Control Module is located on the radiator
support, facing the engine.
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A large rubber grommet to the left of the steering column
allows a path into the engine compartment.
The XM module is located in the very back of this same
location. The factory BOSE amplifier is also located inside
this panel, forward of the jack, on the wheel well hump.
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