American Fly Fisher - American Museum Of Fly Fishing
Transcription
American Fly Fisher - American Museum Of Fly Fishing
The American Fly Fisher Journal of the American Museum of Fly Fishing SPRING 2005 VOLUME 31 N UMBER 2 Tell Me a Story Open countenances. In Genio C. Scott, Fishing in American Waters (New York: The American News Company, 1875), 267. L AST SUMMER DURING A STAFF MEETING, it was decided rather suddenly that we—a journal of fly-fishing history—would devote an issue to fishing stories. These would be personal fishing stories, written by trustees, familiar authors, and friends of the Museum. Immediately I thought of Blair Oliver and a story he had sent me for consideration more than a year before. It was good. Really good. I wanted to accept it, but it was more of a literary piece, and I couldn’t quite make it fit into our definition of “history.” As you might imagine, it’s often a tough call deciding what’s “history,” what isn’t, and why. Because, of course, a part of fly-fishing history is the stories we tell each other and the literature of the sport. At our meeting, we justified an issue of stories as a reflection of fly fishing in the twentieth century. After all, we have friends who have been fishing since the 1930s. What are some of the memories and experiences of people associated with the Museum?, we asked. What was the sport like for the wealthy and the maybe not so? What places were important to people, and why? What moment might be burned into a person’s memory? I had to return Blair Oliver’s story. It was one of the toughest pieces I’ve had to turn down. But here was an opening. Maybe he would let us publish it now. I was lucky; he said yes. I lead this issue with Oliver’s “Bright Feathered Things,” starting on page 2. But read on, because that’s just the beginning. This issue brings you stories from New Jersey, Canada, Iceland, Alaska, the Florida Keys, Pennsylvania, Colorado, Vermont, and Georgia. You will read tales of men and women looking for something: the right pattern, the perfect hat, a bigger duffel bag, a better relationship. You will read about the love of a place and the getting to know it. You will be privy to moments on the periphery: a bridge game in the clouds, perhaps, or releasing something that is not a fish. There’s even an old-fashioned boys-against-the-girls competition. A caveat, and a reassurance for the die-hard historians: by no means are we in a position to or interested in turning the American Fly Fisher into a full-time literary journal or repository for braggadocio. We may receive a lot more fishing stories as a result of this issue, many of which may be rejected or filed away until we have the space—both physical and political—to include them. First and foremost, this journal is about fly-fishing history and its preservation. Speaking of that preservation, the story of our own Museum continues. The grand opening of our new building is Saturday, June 11. Please take a look at the invitation on page 32. We hope to see many of you there. It has been a pleasure having these authors tell me their stories. Now, sit back, relax, and let them tell you. KATHLEEN ACHOR EDITOR THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF FLY FISHING Preserving the Heritage of Fly Fishing TRUSTEES E. M. Bakwin Michael Bakwin Foster Bam Pamela Bates Steven Benardete Paul Bofinger Duke Buchan III Mickey Callanen Peter Corbin Blake Drexler William J. Dreyer Christopher Garcia Ronald Gard George R. Gibson III Gardner L. Grant Chris Gruseke James Hardman James Heckman Lynn L. Hitschler Arthur Kaemmer, M.D. Woods King III Carl R. Kuehner III Nancy Mackinnon Walter T. Matia William C. McMaster, M.D. James Mirenda John Mundt David Nichols Wayne Nordberg Michael B. Osborne Raymond C. Pecor Stephen M. Peet Leigh H. Perkins Allan K. Poole John Rano Roger Riccardi Kristoph J. Rollenhagen William Salladin Ernest Schwiebert Robert G. Scott James A. Spendiff Richard G. Tisch David H. Walsh James C. Woods TRUSTEES EMERITI Charles R. Eichel G. Dick Finlay W. Michael Fitzgerald William Herrick Robert N. Johnson David B. Ledlie Leon L. Martuch Keith C. Russell Paul Schullery Stephen Sloan OFFICERS Chairman of the Board President Vice Presidents Treasurer Secretary Clerk Robert G. Scott David H. Walsh George R. Gibson III Lynn L. Hitschler Michael B. Osborne Stephen M. Peet James Mirenda James C. Woods Charles R. Eichel S TA F F Interim Executive Director Director of Events Administration & Membership Art Director Yoshi Akiyama Lori Pinkowski Rebecca Nawrath Sara Wilcox THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER Editor Design & Production Copy Editor Kathleen Achor Sara Wilcox Sarah May Clarkson Journal of the American Museum of Fly Fishing SPRING 2005 VOLUME 31 NUMBER 2 Bright Feathered Things . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Blair Oliver The Condor and Grizzly Inheritance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Edward G. Davis Panic and Whiskey in Iceland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Ed Migdalski To Alaska with Love, or Diary of a Fishing Wife . . . . . . . 10 Fanny Krieger Islamorada with Charlie Causey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Nathaniel P. Reed My Search for the Perfect Fishing Hat . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Robert H. Berls A Pair of Browns (Myotis lucifugus and Salmo trutta) . . . 18 Robert J. Demarest The Fishing Was the Best of It (With Apologies to Dana Lamb) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Gardner L. Grant Gore Creek: A Love Story . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 John Betts Notes and Comment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 The Soque Sisters vs. the Foggy Bottom Boys . . . . . . . . 25 Stephen Sloan Letters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Museum News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 ON THE COVER: An illustration from The Out of Door Library: Angling by Leroy M. Yale et al. (New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1897), 41. The American Fly Fisher (ISSN 0884-3562) is published four times a year by the Museum at P.O. Box 42, Manchester, Vermont 05254. Publication dates are winter, spring, summer, and fall. Membership dues include the cost of the journal ($15) and are tax deductible as provided for by law. Membership rates are listed in the back of each issue. All letters, manuscripts, photographs, and materials intended for publication in the journal should be sent to the Museum. The Museum and journal are not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographic material, or memorabilia. The Museum cannot accept responsibility for statements and interpretations that are wholly the author’s. Unsolicited manuscripts cannot be returned unless postage is provided. Contributions to The American Fly Fisher are to be considered gratuitous and the property of the Museum unless otherwise requested by the contributor. Articles appearing in this journal are abstracted and indexed in Historical Abstracts and America: History and Life. Copyright © 2005, the American Museum of Fly Fishing, Manchester, Vermont 05254. Original material appearing may not be reprinted without prior permission. Periodical postage paid at Manchester, Vermont 05254 and additional offices (USPS 057410). The American Fly Fisher (ISSN 0884-3562) EMAIL: amff@together.net WEBSITE: www.amff.com POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The American Fly Fisher, P.O. Box 42, Manchester, Vermont 05254. Bright Feathered Things by Blair Oliver From Albert Bigelow Paine, The Tent Dwellers (New York: Harper & Brothers Publishers, 1908), 11. W HEN I WAS A BOY, my grandfather owned the only Orvis shop in New Jersey. Situated a stone’s-throw from a small waterfall and mill on the South Branch of the Raritan River, the shop was long on charm, if short on profit. That didn’t bother my grandfather, who, at six-foot-three and well over 200 pounds, went by the nickname Big Ed. If he was eating lunch, hunched in the closet-sized office at the side of the shop, which he did at the same time every day for more than twenty years, the stray customer would have to wait until he was through. To handicap himself, my grandfather stocked the floor with shirts and sports pants only tourists could afford, and the town didn’t attract many tourists. My grandmother’s antiques cluttered the front window. She sold them in a part of 2 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER the store called the “Bea Hive,” a pun on her name. For me, all of this meant elbow room to play marbles with the larger split shot and to study the bright, alien flies— Royal Coachmans, Yellow Sallys, Trudes. I’d catch houseflies in the corners, collecting them in the hard, hinged plastic cases tackle shops don’t carry anymore because they cut into the bottom line. My flies would rest until I shook the case, then secured a stunned fly to some tippet. Hiding behind the sports pants, I’d release the fly in a customer’s direction, and when he’d swat at it, I’d yank the tippet. This, too, wasn’t good for business. After a halfhearted scolding, I’d hide in the office and suck on the sugar cubes beside the coffeepot, waiting for my father to return. Still, for all of the time I spent in the shop, I was never close to my grandfather, and although he was an expert with access to private waters, he never offered to take me fishing. ! On a recent trip to New Jersey from my home in Colorado, I called my father, something I don’t always do. I asked him to go fishing, and though he hesitated, he agreed. He decided on Round Valley Reservoir. I’d wanted to fly fish the Raritan, my grandfather’s old water, but it was the middle of July and the river was low and close to 80 degrees. My father didn’t think we’d catch any fish in the reservoir either, but we’d at least have gone boating. My father had spent many years messing around in boats, including much of the time he was married to my mother. One was a capsized yacht in the Virgin Islands. The boat had grounded and, rather than pay someone to tow it, the captain left it there, opening the shipwreck as a tourist bar. It featured a large, alcoholic snake that hung from the rafters and drank shots off the teak. Booze was cheap, but the tourists had to pay four dollars for a shot of imported mixer. My father would meet these revelers halfway through happy hour and take them on an “insiders’” tour of the islands, complete with a native dancing show starring women who ran a dentist’s office, sold real estate, and did nails during the day. My father had never taken me fishing either, so I wasn’t convinced we’d go until I got to his house and saw his El Camino parked in the drive, spinning rods poking from the bed. We picked up a small boat from a friend of his, fought through the midmorning crowd at the launch, and set out. Even though I was thirty-five, he thought it would be fun for me to drive, so I throttled the outboard as he rigged the rods with sinkers and grubs. My father, in case this isn’t clear, is not a purist. He’s more interested in catching fish than how he goes about doing it. He went straight for the worms while my fly rod sat primly in its case beside him. Along with the spinning rods, my father wanted to use the outriggers to troll with crippled spoons. Here follows what happens on many trips when real fathers and sons try to make up for lost years in a single morning: neither of us could manage to lower the outrigger lines, a seemingly simple task for one practical mechanic and one Ph.D., and we spent most of our allotted time catching sunnies—bluegills, to be charitable—on worms along the far, grasschoked shore. We were having fun, though. I was buoyant at the throttle, concentrating not on signs of fish but on potential marine disasters. It occurred to me, too, that even though there was plenty of water, my father wanted me to drive because his eyesight was beginning to fail him. I had to tie on a few of his hooks. Like his own father, he’s a big man, but much of his bulk has fallen prey to gravity, leaving his upper body stooped, mottled. He’s a hard drinker, for whom beer doesn’t count as drinking on those days he needs to stay sober. Rather than ask my father why he’d never taken me fishing, I asked why my grandfather hadn’t. “We had our differences,” he said over the outboard. He picked up my rod case, unzipped it, and slid out the sleeve. Sodden with sunnies, we’d moved on to trolling with long, heavily weighted lines secured along the gunwales. “I was twen- ty-one,” he continued, opening the sleeve, as he selected a yellow streamer and “and owned my own business, and I hired began tying it on. “He used that money the old man to keep my books.” My father to open the fly shop. He ran clinics for had expressed doubt that a five-piece kids. But I’m afraid the distance between rod could properly cast a fly, but now he us got in the way of his relationship with joined the ferrules, waggled the rod, and you, too.” nodded. As solitary and self-fulfilling as He spit and tightened his knot. fishing can be, we all seek approval for “This is one of his flies,” he said, having accomplished something. That’s handing me the case. “They all are. I why fishermen lie. We need to accom- want you to have them.” Inside was a plish something, and few people beyond storm of bright feathered things. our fishing friends are willing to count “Thanks,” I managed. the proper identification of a bug as an “You should never hit your father.” accomplishment. This behavior is comI slowed so he could troll with the fly. pounded, of course, for sons before their “Then don’t make me mad,” I said. fathers. A man may know that his father “What?” left his wife and children in difficult cir“Sorry.” cumstances, and not hear from that father He handed the fly rod to me to work for years save for the occasional, boozy along the pumping station. postcard written in the third person, but he will still hold his breath while awaiting his father’s verdict on almost everything he does. “One day,” my father said, fitting my reel to its seat and stringing the leader through the guides, “I discovered my father had borrowed ten thousand dollars withFrom Thomas Sedgwick Steele, Canoe & Camera out asking. When I (New York: Orange Judd Company, 1880), 90. confronted him, he got defensive. The old man didn’t know shit about business. One week later, after leaving my Still, he knew enough to know that you daughter with my mother, I returned to don’t take a man’s money.” my grandfather’s water. He belonged to a The bow rose and dropped. I pumped fishing club that owns a stretch of the my hand on the throttle to relieve the South Branch at the end of Ken cramp. Lockwood Gorge. I parked along the dirt “Even so,” he said, “I told him all he road just past the cable that crossed the had to do was ask.” He waited for me to river and divided private from public. If nod. “My father didn’t want to listen to I couldn’t wade in the same pool as he that, so I grew even hotter. I went across had, I could see it. The section I’d fish the street and got drunk.” didn’t look far removed from my homeMy father dipped into his tackle box town Poudre in miniature, curving and produced a handsome, metal fly upstream around a deadfall-blocked case. He peered inside it. bend. It was 20 feet across, and fast, with “I came back a couple of hours later, modest runs and pocket pools. This haland the old man was still unapologetic, lowed water was anorexic. Sun sparkled so I popped him one.” He looked up at in the riffles. I rigged my rod in the me and smiled a little sadly. He shook his shade, tying on a size 16 Copper John, a head. “I was just a kid, do you under- fly that had worked wonders all season, stand me?” We looked at each other for a compensating for many of my clumsy moment. Behind his glasses, my father’s moments. It was only later that I realized eyes were red around the rims. I nodded the attractor’s flash was all wrong for this again, even though I wasn’t sure then clear, summer stretch of water. Now, that I did understand him. I’d tried for though, I was alone in the woods on a years to not be afraid of my father. Monday afternoon. “He never forgave me,” my father No matter how many times I remind said, returning to the fly case. “No mat- myself to slow down, to plan, to observe, ter what I did. . . . ” His voice was I often rush into rivers. This was no momentarily lost in the noise of the boat exception. The water was swimmingSPRING 2005 3 pool warm, not a happy state of things for trout. I felt it in my knees, as I hadn’t packed waders for the trip east in the interest of traveling as lightly as I could. Traveling lightly meant four bags plus what my wife and I could strap to the baby’s back. Since my daughter was born, I’ve been preparing for our first fishing trip together, grilling other fathers about how young their children were when they first took them. In short, I should’ve known a family man never travels lightly and at least packed boots. My first step on the rocky bed in sandals nearly sent me pinwheeling. Regaining composure—and for me, achieving a sense of unalloyed composure that may, someday, feel like grace, is what fly fishing promises—I told myself it didn’t matter if I caught a fish. I always think that on my way to go fishing, even as getting skunked always calls this bluff on the ride home. I loaded my rod and cast above the seam alongside a large boulder, upstream and to my left. My leader was pulled beneath the surface, and the fly dragged to my feet. I took a breath, false cast, and fired upstream of the same boulder, adding an “S” curve to the unlooping line. This resulted in a few blessed feet of drag-free drift, but the fly continued downstream unmolested. I tried the seam a few more times, as I’ve sometimes caught trout in a likely location through doggedness alone. I had to teach myself how to fish, which is to say it took an inordinate number of casts to realize that if I wanted to trick a trout in this water, I’d have to tie on a skinnier leader. I fished methodically, upstream left to right, working the boulders, seams, and deadfall. Something crashed in the woods, and I felt like I was being watched. I hoped it was a bear, something readily explainable. The cable across the river was getting further behind me. I cast, almost desperately, and looked over my shoulder. I was spooked by a crayfish. A pool before a downed tree held two small browns that darted from my approach. Moments later, one shot between my legs. I concentrated on stealth. The water was tired, so I moved further upstream until I happened upon a good trout holding in a pocket. My nymph wasn’t working. There was no hatch to match, so I tied on a size 14 Royal Wulff and dead-drifted it over the fish. In a flash, the trout nosed the fly, then returned to its place among the rocks. I tried a few more passes before switching to an Adams and settling on a caddis. Nothing, including a few rough casts, budged it. I’d like to report here that my alwaysimproving skills, patience, and creativity finally brought this fish to hand. That’s the usual happy ending. But this trout, at least, was not a sentimental one. It didn’t care about my grandfather, my father, or me. Here, in refracted light, was a reminder that fish and the waters that hold them have little use for us. It’s we who need them. A river was something the men in my family could agree on, and because of that, became the thing we couldn’t share. The consequences of a life without family fishing continue to manifest themselves in clumsy casts, missed strikes, and fishless days. But those are the least of my worries. This is a fish story without a lot of fish. These are people I’m trying to tease to the surface. " Blair Oliver teaches literature and creative writing at Front Range Community College in Fort Collins, Colorado, where he’s also the founding editor of Front Range Review, a national literary magazine. His work has been published in Red Rock Review, Yale Anglers’ Journal, Iron Horse Literary Review, Talking River Review, CutBank, and elsewhere. His essays on fly fishing appear in a regular column in Yellowstone Journal. From Dean Sage et al., Salmon and Trout (New York: The Macmillan Company, 1904), frontispiece. 4 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER The Condor and Grizzly Inheritance by Edward G. Davis Photos taken by the author The author tying on a Condor and Grizzly at streamside. Forsan et haec olim meminisse iuvabit. And perhaps some day it shall please us to remember these things. !Virgil, The Aeneid W HY DO TROUT FREQUENTLY rise to, and accept, the esoteric pattern? Does hunger and the conditioned reflex often overcome caution? Or are there other phenomena about the attractor patterns that remain unanswered? The Condor and Grizzly dressing proceeded from the fertile imagination of my friend Jack Finchley. It had likely been one of a number of winter projects. Finchley knew the Pebble Grove water in Québec as I know the contents of my tie rack. He could ferret out large browns at high noon with predetermined accuracy. I have witnessed his ability to determine the holding positions that wild brown trout select. These sites were virtually always associated with some large deflector in the flow of water—perhaps a rock, boulder, or deadfall. Finchley emphasized the need for ultracaution when This story was originally published in the May/June 1984 issue of Flyfishing Magazine (Oregon), then in the Summer 1985 issue of Double Haul (the official publication of the Izaak Walton Fly Fisherman’s Club). approaching these sites. I have observed him motionless and with a low profile. He would discuss the qualities of the brown trout at the proverbial drop of a fishing hat, including his theses about why strict nocturnal feeding is a myth without supporting evidence. Finchley insisted that wild brown trout indulge in a graded range of sequence, with the largest fish often located slightly upstream of the other brown trout in the grouping. This hypothesis often predisposed him to fish across and downstream with a deep sinking nymph. Finchley, like many of us, liked to catch the larger trout. But today as he approached one of our club water’s more productive pools and placed his rod aside, I detected the aura of another of Finchley’s impending pronouncements. “They come in high,” he announced, with the convincing air of understatement. “What is meant by high?” I asked. Finchley proceeded to explain his current theory that trout will approach and obtain food according to the way their natural diet presents itself in the stream. “They get used to feeding a certain way,” he remarked. “How so?” I inquired, noting that his creel looked weighty this ten o’clock morning. “Elementary,” answered Finchley, who had the reputation with our seven club members as an innovator of esoteric patterns that could cause trout to blanch in terror. “If the food forms float high, the trout become conditioned to breaking the surface with typical dry fly action,” he continued. “This means that they do not bulge as when feeding on nymphs. It also means that you can miss setting the hook with a dry fly that sits well down in the surface film.” “Are you saying that trout are creatures of habit,” I inquired, “and that if the imitation sits too low in the film, and does not imitate the way in which the natural dun floats in a particular stream, the point of the hook—in this case—will pass below their lower jaw?” “Exactly,” replied Finchley, with the solemnity of a bishop presiding over a consecration. “The trout become used to SPRING 2005 5 the food forms in their environment. They can also detect differences between hard and soft foods,” he continued, eyeing me as one who is a novice to trout lore and freestone diet. “I have designed the Condor and Grizzly,” Finchley continued, “to represent the same hardness as the majority of food forms in this water. If the material of which the natural is composed is significantly harder or softer than the deceiver, the wise trout will quickly eject the imitation.” Pondering this hypothesis for a moment raised the question in my mind about the hardness of the steel hook, and why this condition would not be cause for rejection of the artificial by the fish. I was about to remark about this point when Finchley presented me with three of his exquisitely dressed creations. They were meticulously crafted, and the stiffness of the cock hackle was outstanding. I could not bring myself to attempt to refute his theories. Possibly the tranquillity of the early June morning had disarmed me. Or perhaps I subconsciously detected the need to think about his claims more fully before rejecting Finchley’s hypothesis. The morning was bright but with small clouds billowing in genie shapes, and with just a hint of haze when viewing a distant scene. A blue jay scolded me for entering his territory. One small metallic-green dragonfly was developing an obsession with the tip of my fly rod. I sat on a fallen tree trunk near the upper reaches of our club water about 12:30 P.M. After consuming a sandwich and packing a pipe, it seemed an appropriate time to examine Finchley’s latest product from the vise. I must confess to so neatly four or five centuries ago: the fault does not lie in the stars but in myself. Or words to that effect. At any rate, because there was a small backwater near my feet, I casually dropped one of Finchley’s unattached Condor and Grizzly patterns into the water. My curiosity was piqued about how high this dry fly would float above the film. The fly landed on its feet or grizA 1956 Québec fishing license, the year of the Condor zly hackle, and then setand Grizzly experiment. It was issued by the sporting tled onto the forked badgoods department of Henry Morgan and Co. Ltd. ger hair tails. I noted that and cost $1.10. the tails were longer than usual and tilted down slightly. The fly The fly should therefore sit high about floated high enough to keep the bend of the surface film. And the condor barbule, wound on edge, makes for a very the hook out of the water. Then my attention was diverted from realistic mayfly body,” Wilson added. “And they come in high,” I said. the floating fly by movement down“They what . . . oh yes; I see what you stream. And I saw Nelson Wilson moving quietly upwater at river’s edge. mean,” Wilson laughed. “Were there any Watching Wilson, and noting the ab- further claims for this style of dry-fly sence of a petty contriving for technique, dressing?” I repeated Finchley’s theory about the one instinctively knew that he had been doing this for a long time. It’s a strange hardness or relative softness of food in world, I reflected; we are currently being the trout’s diet. There was the beginning of an afterinvaded by the technique-oriented specialists. But here is a fly fisher whose noon rise upstream. Three trout were casting is endowed with ease and grace. working at the surface of a pool about 40 Nothing could have appeared more feet above our location at streamside. unrehearsed. Wilson projected the Two of the fish appeared to be 10 or 12 inches long. But the trout that was feedimage of having been born to it all. Returning my attention to the little ing near the juncture of a small but backwater eddy, I observed Finchley’s fly steady-flowing spring entrance to the escaping into the mainstream current of main river looked more substantial. The water where, slowly at first, the current rise forms were of the suction variety began to exert its swift influence on the with a residue of small bubbles. The fly. It moved with increasing water was deep and quiet at that location speed downstream parallel- on the stream surface. Wilson, at my suggestion, tied a ing the bank. Thinking that Wilson would be able to Condor and Grizzly to his tippet. I retrieve the Condor and watched him move quietly to a position Grizzly, I was about to hail midstream where his backcast would him when the fly disap- clear the trees. Wilson studied the large peared in a swirl created trout rising upstream for, what seemed downstream. I saw the fare- to me, an inordinately long time. “He is lying below the surface and well wave of the tail of a fish crest the surface of the drifting back with the food to examine it closely,” Wilson remarked. “This fish is water. Wilson waded upstream not swimming directly up to the fly,” he and eased onto a log at added. I watched Wilson wipe his leader water’s edge. He had obJack Finchley soon changed the forked tails from served the rise to Finchley’s clean so that it would not lie on top of badger hair to elk hair. The fly dressings are by the fly, but was not aware of the the surface film on this bright sunny day. author. Finchley insisted upon scarlet tying thread. background details. I ex- Releasing line slowly and keeping the tip confidence in the nonesoteric and est- tracted a second Condor and Grizzly of his fly rod to the side in order to keep ablished fish-producing artificials of the from my fly box and gave it to Wilson a low profile with the rod, he began to season. Not for me the unexplored— while updating him about Finchley’s lat- cast and slowly release line. Each cast placed the fly approximately one foot except in the realm of streamers. The old est claims. Quill Gordon, March Brown, and HenWilson looked closely at the fly. “The further upstream. Wilson did not false drickson offer me sufficient challenge at hackle is oversized,” he commented, cast to dry the fly. The trout took the the tying table. Perhaps as the Bard put it “and the twin tails longer than normal. Condor and Grizzly on the fourth cast. 6 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER Wilson positioned the rod to one side, to see if the trout could be induced to rod tip about one foot above the surface move. And this fish did move, but not of the water, and then tightened up to set more, according to Wilson later, than 12 the hook. The trout began to bore inches. He was stubborn and dogged in upstream with a steady and dogged de- attitude, and who knows how much he termination. Suddenly the fish changed weighed. My watch announced that the direction 90 degrees to the left and sur- time was 2:03 P.M. with a quiet imperfaced. I say “he” because I caught a sonal dignity. And then I heard Wilson’s glimpse of the hooked jaw. I also noted groan of disapproval and observed his the long wide flank and enormous tail. rod return to the straight position. He There was a wave of water the like of reeled in slowly and, after examining the which I have rarely observed in freshwa- fly, waded across stream and sat on the ter fishing. Wilson’s reel steadily released bank beside me. line, and he began to wade upstream—following the trout. About 20 yards above the location where the trout rose, spring water entered near a large boulder on the left bank. An abutment of rock was located on the right bank. Just downstream of the rocky abutment on the right bank, there is an overhanging ledge of no small proportion. The water is deep here— perhaps 12 to 16 feet. It is also shaded on Nelson Wilson, like most fly fishers, is often this side of the stream surrounded by scenic beauty. bank by coniferous growth, much of which overhangs the “Take a glimmer at this,” Wilson top of the high bank. requested, handing me the tippet of his The trout turned and headed for this leader. deep and sun-protected pool. Wilson The barbless hook was almost managed to retrieve the backing and a straight. It was a case of one of those considerable portion of the fly line. hooks that evades detection by the hook It seemed appropriate for me to walk maker and the fly dresser. I muttered through the trees along the north side of some comment to the effect that once the stream. I knew that Wilson would again, the concept of zero defects failed not object to my watching the play. But I to recognize that people are not perfect. made certain not to distract his attention “Well,” I said, “two down and one to from this trout. I sat quietly on the left go.” bank, some distance behind my com“Two down and what to go?” asked panion, and unsnapped the flap on the Wilson. camera’s protective case. “Two Condor and Grizzlies lost, and The fish sought depth in the pool. one remaining in my fly box,” I anThis move by the trout enabled Wilson swered. to retrieve more of the fly line as he “Really,” replied Wilson, “this experiwaded to a more appropriate position. ment was interesting. But the evening I glanced at my watch. It was 1:49 P.M. rise will likely be to March Browns.” Wilson’s rod remained in a static arc. As Wilson left to return to the cabin and the accurately as I could observe, the line tying vise to prepare March Browns for was not moving in any direction. I his evening fishing. leaned back and settled in to watch. With the faint hope of matching A porcupine revealed his presence by Wilson’s recent performance, I opened changing position on the left bank about my fly box, selected the remaining 50 feet upstream. A queen bee made Condor and Grizzly, and tied it to a 4X overtures to the toe of my left wading tippet. Wading slowly upstream and surboot. Heat bugs made soft summer veying a glassy, unbroken stretch of sounds. water, I began by working the tailwater Wilson had braced his feet for a long of the pool. Several casts later, an 8-inch battle. I observed an occasional side-pull rainbow greedily attacked the fly and hooked itself. I could not, I suppose, expect a repeat performance. But in the process of dreaming about another spectacular fish, I allowed this little fellow full rein. It was—to put it mildly—a mistake. I knew that the log was there. And I was reminded about the deadfall after he wound my leader through some branches midway along the underwater obstruction. I finally had to break off and, in the process, lost the third Condor and Grizzly. Three strikes and you’re out, I chided myself. There were no rises now, and I therefore changed the reel spool to facilitate use of a sinking tip line and tied a nymph to the tippet. For about half an hour, I continued upstream, half concentrating on fishing, casting mechanically, and reminiscing about the loss of Wilson’s giant brown trout. It would be wise to start back to the city a little early, I decided, and avoid the traffic. Arriving back at the cabin, I disjointed, wiped, and packed my rod. And there was Wilson, visible through the front window, hunched over the tying vise. The expression on Wilson’s face resembled that of a Bulgarian werewolf. I entered the cabin to collect a few unmentionables. “Leaving now,” I announced. “See you next weekend.” “Fine,” Wilson replied absently. “These tails are too short.” “What are you tying?” I asked, easing open the screen door on my way out. “Oh, er, I thought that I would, er, try my hand at a Condor and Grizzly,” admitted Wilson sheepishly. “Be careful,” I remarked in a cautioning tone. “Remember, they come in high.” The spring tension of the screen door protected me from a well-aimed damp wading sock. I walked through the reddish glow of the late afternoon sun to the car parked beside the old sand road. " Ed Davis has contributed about forty articles to fly-fishing journals and, in 1991, authored a book, Patterns and Places (Winchester Press). In 1993 he received the Gregory Clark Award in recognition for outstanding contributions to fly fishing. SPRING 2005 7 Panic and Whiskey in Iceland by Ed Migdalski Tom Migdalski The author and his granddaughter, Maggie Migdalski, holding the author’s replica of his Grimsa 12-pounder. A LONG WITH BEING a professional ichthyologist at Yale University over the many years, my life has been remarkably enriched by an insatiable indulgence in fly fishing—an unusual combination of academic discipline in fisheries science and worldwide sportfishing. In that respect, I am extremely fortunate to have been presented with opportunities to subdue with rod and reel the lordliest of all fish that can be lured to take an artificial fly: the Atlantic salmon, Salmo salar. The circumstances under which I fished differed as widely as the waterways where I spent long hours casting and searching for Atlantic salmon in some of the globe’s most renowned rivers running through parts of Québec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Labrador, Russia, and Iceland. Especially in Iceland, where for a period of twenty successive seasons through the generous 8 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER tutelage of longtime friend, Foster Bam, I fought salmon, while on occasion my antics were witnessed by my son Tom with his cameras or Foster’s pretty wife, Sallie Baldwin, with her lovely smile. The rapid-heartbeat and shiveringknees adventures caused by head-shaking salmon in dangerous river structures provided exciting fodder for storytelling at cocktail time, but one of the most memorable occasions for which I have a visible, constant reminder happened after one particular salmon was conquered and safely netted in Iceland’s Grimsa River. The Grimsa’s 12 miles hold sixty pools reserved for eight or ten lodge guests. One guide and his car are assigned to each pair of anglers, and a rotation system of morning and afternoon fishing on different sections is followed. I love everything about that river, both its ruggedness and tranquil beauty, but never did I expect this spectacular water, flowing through pockmarked volcanic rock and intensely green valleys, to produce a salmon that first caused me a sweating panic and then keen delight forever after. While working my favorite pool, Stringir, marked number thirty, located within a gorgeous stretch of scenery including snowcapped mountains in the background, a 12-pound salmon, pushing surface water, clamped onto the fly and zipped off line as I, with aid of my wading staff, stumbled in pursuit over dangerous, slippery, irregularly ridged structures. After explosive exchanges between rod and salmon, and encouraging yells from Foster, the fish was netted a quarter mile downriver through the heroic effort of our favorite guide, Sveinbjorn Blondel, whom everyone calls Sven. As Tom photographed that salmon in the net at the river’s edge, I admired its well-shaped Foster Bam Playing the salmon as Sven prepares the net at the Stringir pool. body and aggressive hooked jaws—a male fish that returned to its home river after feeding voraciously for a couple of years in the sea. Because of the magnificent aerial acrobatics displayed by this beauty and my pleasure of having constructed the fly, a Hairy Mary #10, that he took in a swirl on the water’s surface, I fell in love with that fish. Instead of releasing it, I decided to take this specimen home; it would make a memorable trophy. Consequently, I gave Sven explicit instructions on how to place the trophy in the lodge freezer. The custom at the Grimsa is to angle a half-day at the end of the fishing week on Sunday morning, the day of departure for the Kevflavic airport. Fishing until the last moment always creates a problem: time-consuming struggling from chest waders, peeling off thermal underwear, reorganizing other paraphernalia, and then dismantling rods while packing duffel bags to be ready when the minibus arrives to pick up the anglers. At the conclusion of our fishing, Sven retrieved my pride and joy from the freezer and delivered it to my room, where I was prepared to incorporate it into my luggage. As I did, I found to my dismay that that the salmon’s tail end of about 7 inches protruded beyond the confines of the canvas traveling bag. Meanwhile, close by my bedroom window in the crowded parking area, Magnus, the bus driver, was exhorting the guides to load the luggage. Time was growing short for departure. To search for a Styrofoam box, tape, and twine to accommodate the salmon was out of the question. I panicked. To settle my anxiety, I finished the last shot of bourbon real nut. I inserted the tail into the long plastic bag with the body of the salmon, rewrapped it all with several layers of newspaper, and secluded it into a set of insulated underwear. Then I smiled as the bag zippered up without a hitch. Sven carried my rods and other bags to the bus, in which sat impatient passengers. I lugged the last piece, containing the salmon, to the lodge door as fast as I could. Then I slowed and nonchalantly placed the heavy bag on the platform. As I straightened up, I could feel the sweat break out on my forehead. The salmon arrived home still frozen. Several months later, I prepared the salmon for molding in plaster. First, positioning the fish in a bed of wet, fine sand, I pressed the tail end tightly against the body from which it had been severed, and then flowed the plaster over it. Because of the medicinal benefits of Tennessee whiskey that Sunday morning in Iceland, I turned a seemingly acute disaster into a successful event. The plastic replica of my trophy fish, cast from the plaster mold, shows a distinct vertical wound across its caudal peduncle, a blemish I could have repaired, but I did not do so because it brings a happy memory when I view that scarred reproduction of my 12-pounder and recall the morning of panic on the banks of the Grimsa. " from the bottle, sitting like a lifesaving lighthouse on the dresser, and made a decision. I pulled off my pants, shoes, and socks, placed the salmon in the bathtub, and with pocketknife in hand, followed the salmon into the tub. On my knees, with towel over the ice-cold fish, I frantically began the tough job of sawing off the tail end of the frozen trophy. While the fish scales were sprinkling over the bottom of the tub, I finally cut through the skin, meat, and backbone. Just then, I heard Foster, standing by the Ed Migdalski, retired ichthyologist, bus, yell to Sven, who was waiting at the Natural History Museum scientist, and loading platform with the other guides outdoor educator at Yale University has to say goodbye, “Where the hell is Ed? He fished extensively around the globe. He is must be goofing off somewhere as the author of nine books and about 150 usual.” journal and magazine articles. I expected the knock on my door. I shouted, “Come in, Sven.” He opened the door and exclaimed to the empty room, “How did you know it was me?” I replied, “I’m psychic. I’m in the bathtub. Come on in, I need your help.” He approached hesitantly and peeked in as I stood in the tub with the Tom Migdalski salmon’s tail in one hand, the knife in the other, and the rest of the fish at my feet. Before I could explain, he stared at me, gulped, and softly said, “Yayzus.” After I told him not to call Foster because I hadn’t lost my mind, I commissioned him to clean up the mess before the fish scales dried and stuck to the tub. Otherwise, the maids would quickly spread the news The blemish shows distinctly where the tail end was cut. that Mr. Migdalski was a SPRING 2005 9 To Alaska with Love, or Diary of a Fishing Wife by Fanny Krieger Photos by Mel Krieger Tundra, small trees, and mountains around Ugashik Lake—the view from the camp. I HAD BEEN MARRIED to an expert fisherman for twenty years. Many fishing trips have been conceived at our house. My husband Mel and his friends get together, a hot spot is mentioned, the date is set, and the adventure is on. Serving coffee and cake, I have listened to tales of fish and fun in places like Argentina, New Zealand, Alaska, and Montana. These exotic trips have always seemed to be a “male” thing. Although I do fish occasionally and have even gone through the Fenwick fly-fishing schools, I was never invited on a really serious trip. Early this year, Jim and Paige Myers invited Mel and several fishermen to sample the fishing on their property on Ugashik Lake in Alaska. Another fishing experience for men only! Three weeks before departure, Paige extended the invitation to me. Now was my chance to This article originally appeared in the Fall/Winter 1978 issue of Angler magazine. 10 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER take part in the ritual and mystique of a fly-fishing expedition. Our Alaska adventure was everything in its preparation and anticipation that I had envied on so many other trips. This time, though, I was involved: I had my own 81⁄2-foot graphite rod complete with a size 6 floating line; various sinking shooting heads; a brand-new vest loaded with clippers, scissors, tippet material, leaders in different sizes, a small scale, Cutter repellent for the mosquitos, and, of course, three separate boxes of flies— dry flies, nymphs, and streamers, most of which I did not know by name. Finding waders to fit my 5-foot, 2-inch stature proved a bit more challenging (manufacturers had yet to design waders for women). We finally found a pair at a local specialty shop. With a new fishing hat adorned with several attractive flies and lots of warm clothes, I was prepared. We spent our first day in Anchorage, a town of the old west surrounded by majestic snowcapped mountains. We got our fishing licenses from J. C. Penney’s tackle department. A gourmet dinner with friends at the Captain Cook Hotel completed our day. From Anchorage, we boarded a Wien Air Alaska plane the next morning for a one-hour flight to King Salmon on the Alaska Peninsula, the starting point for many fishing and hunting camps. When we landed on a small airstrip, it was windy, and a gray mist hovered over a barely paved road that led to the main hotel, two bars and semirestaurants, and the general store. Our chartered flight to Ugashik would depart as soon as the only pilot returned from another flight. We met the rest of the Myers’s guests at a restaurant called the Fireside Inn. Axel, originally from Germany and now living in Houston, was a pleasant fellow, who was really looking forward to his first trip to Alaska; Dieter, who owned a restaurant in Vancouver, was serious and eager; Dieter’s friends Connie and Dora completed the group. Connie, a spry man of seventy-four, and Dora were from Oregon. They were veterans of many fishing trips and a bit critical of this gray, delayed beginning. All of them were spin fishermen. Our pilot finally checked in. Orin, a part-owner of Peninsular Airlines, loaded the Widgeon, a small float plane, with the six of us, our fishing gear, sleeping bags, duffel bags, gasoline, and supplies for our camp. The mist and wind persisted all the way to Ugashik. We flew at about five hundred feet above ground and spotted moose, caribou, and white swans in the expanse of tundra and water. Forty-five minutes and roughly 125 miles later, the Widgeon landed on Ugashik Lake and taxied to the shore, one hundred feet from the cabins. The Myers came out to greet us, help with our luggage, and usher us to our lodgings. The cabins were small. The front room in the main cabin was a combination sitting room and kitchen, with a big table and several chairs. The back room had eight bunks and a shower stall. The next building was a Quonset hut that housed a large boat, a couple of freezers, and a generator. A small outhouse, “the Tilton Hilton,” stood at a precarious angle next to it. The last building was a one-room cabin with four bunk beds, a stove, and a sink. Mel and I shared this cabin with Connie and Dora. We each laid out our sleeping bags on a bunk and stuffed our duffel bags underneath. It was a living quarter for four people—Dora and Connie preferred to share one bunk bed and store their bags on the other. There was no hot water, and the stove had a mind of its own. We went back to the main cabin, where a fire had been built, and relaxed in warmth and comfort. Sunday was our first day of fishing in Alaska. We took a walk along the lake, south to the Narrows. As its name suggests, the Narrows is a stretch of water that connects the Upper and Lower Ugashik Lakes. The Narrows figures in fishing records for producing the largest grayling in North America (4 pounds, 6 ounces). The water was thick with bright red salmon churning and breaking the surface noisily on the way to their spawning beds. Mel pointed out the males, with their large heads and hooked jaws. I became very excited and wanted to fish, but Mel explained that at this time of the year, the salmon had been in fresh water too long to be desirable as a sport or a food fish. The sky was heavy with clouds and the wind was strong, making casting very difficult. I practiced my double haul before the trip and was ready to test it. I put on a medium sinking shooting head and a black streamer. The wading was not precarious, but I could feel the cold water through my waders. I was instructed earlier to make short casts in the pool. This was a good thing, because I could not keep control of my line in the strong wind. In a few minutes, I hooked my first fish. It was the first grayling of the day, so it was greeted with much enthusiasm by everyone. The fish weighed about 2 pounds. Suddenly I was much warmer and ready for more. Several casts with the same fly brought several more graylings, most weighing 2 pounds, some slightly heavier. Was this beginner’s luck? Whatever, it was OK. After lunch, we changed places. The Myerses ferried us around in their two small boats. I was dropped off at a spot across the Narrows, and Mel and Axel took off to the mouth of the lower lake. I learned from this morning’s fishing to put on another layer of clothes, a heavier pair of socks, and woolen gloves, and— just in case—to bring my little scale. It was still misty and windy, but casting was more comfortable now. I changed to a floating line as I saw graylings near the surface of the water. I started off with a Black Marabou Muddler. The graylings, Fanny with an arctic char. their dorsal fins wide open in the water, remained cooperative and continued to strike easily. Suddenly, my rod was bent over with a good fish. The pull was stronger than it was before; the play for the fish lasted longer. I landed it eagerly: 22 inches, 31⁄2 pounds. The spin fishermen in our group did not do well. The graylings seemed to be taking flies over lures. So, Mel rigged up for them pieces of driftwood to which he attached leaders of about 3 feet with flies at the end. I was very tired at night, but felt so good. I resolved to learn more about the science of fly fishing. My introduction was productive and exciting, but all that occurred was basically accidental. Just as I needed to perfect my casting, I had to understand the different line–leader– tippet combinations, the intricacies of the many fly manipulations, and the various presentations and retrieves related to the different waters. I needed also to get the feel of the connection with the fish. It had been a thrill just catching fish, but I wanted to learn more about fishing. On Monday the sky was still cloudy, but the wind was low, and it was warmer than the day before. While breakfast was being prepared, I cast a black nymph right in front of the main cabin and hooked a 2-pound grayling. What a way to start a day. We left for the other side of the Narrows for our morning’s fishing. Everyone caught 2- and 3-pound graylings. I took some time out to watch Mel fish. He decided to try for the Dolly Varden. Using a floating line and a bright steelhead fly, he cast slightly downstream very carefully around the rocks and riffles. He moved constantly downstream, catching several Dolly Varden in the 2- to 3-pound class and many of the bright red salmon. It was interesting to note how carefully Mel released the fish. He stood in shallow water while he took the hook out of the mouth of the fish—the fish still in the water—with a pair of hemostats. On a few occasions, after he brought the fish near the shore for photographs, with both hands he then gently held the fish in the water facing the current, until the fish was able to swim away. Most of the time it took just a minute or two, but occasionally five or ten minutes were required. It was now time for me to fish. I put on a small dry fly, a #12 Horner Deer Hair, and cast it slightly upstream. I watched it carefully float down and felt the skip of a SPRING 2005 11 Fanny with a rainbow. heartbeat as a grayling rose out of the water to strike my fly. I knew now to strike back gently and to lead the fish toward me. The steps included picking the fish out of the water, admiring it, unhooking it, weighing larger ones, and finally, gently and carefully releasing it. After several big graylings on dry flies, I switched back to a black streamer, cast it farther away, and watched the line drift downstream. Almost every time the line arced at the end of the drift, a fish attacked the fly, the hook was set, and the play was on. The fast action continued until midafternoon. Lots of photographs were taken of the large graylings. Mel and I each caught a 4pound grayling. I began to feel like an expert. We took a short lunch break and decided to try another location: the mouth of the Narrows in the lower lake. Here fishing was very slow, but the scenery was spectacular. A large range of snow-covered peaks rose far to the south; to the north lay the Upper Ugashik Lake. Beyond the lake towered a snowcapped volcano, while next to it a smaller volcano still smoldered from an earlier eruption. Flocks of geese and ducks dotted the blue and orange sky. Once I saw a red fox on the shore, but there was no sign of bears. We fished until dark, which was about 8:30 P.M. Mel caught a beautiful 71⁄2-pound Dolly Varden, a strong fish with orange spots all over. The fish fought for nearly thirty minutes. The rain and cold came back on Tuesday. We decided to brave the elements to cross the Narrows. Fish were feeding actively, but the cold numbed 12 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER my wet hands. It was still raining and blowing when we returned to the cabin to tie flies and to resume our endless conversations of fishing. In the evening, Mel tied a supply of Sky Komish Sunrises, the bright yellow, orange, and white steelhead fly that caught his big Dolly the day before. Wednesday, the clouds were gone, but a cold wind blew fiercely. We spent the day reading, talking, eating, drinking, and learning to tie flies. The next afternoon, Axel, Mel, and I fished the Narrows. The graylings, displaying their dorsal fins and flashing shades of blue and gold, remained easy targets. Those caught still consistently ranged up to 4 pounds. Saturday morning brought the arrival of two longtime friends: Ed Rice, the head of International Anglers Exposition, and Hal Janssen, the sales manager for Sunset Line and Twine. Their excitement took over as soon as their plane landed. Hal shouted and gestured to fish right then and there. Monday morning we packed a lunch and went north on Ugashik Lake in two boats to explore French’s Lake, a small lake about 3 miles from our lodge. It was our first trip on the lake. The day was sunny and warm, and the water was unbelievably clear and calm, shining like an immense black and silver mirror. Formations of ducks and geese flew over us. Hal was the first to spot graylings. We stopped and caught a good many fish that were about 11⁄2 to 3 pounds. At French’s Lake, Mel landed a lake trout, a Dolly Varden, and a grayling, all in thirty minutes at the same spot. In one of the inlets to the lake, we saw some very large fish swimming lazily. The men wondered whether they were Dollys, lake trout, pike, or silver salmon, and all three worked hard to catch one, but to no avail. The wind came up, the sky clouded over, and it got cold. We decided to return to the cabins before the waves became too treacherous. Around 5:00 P.M., we crossed the Narrows to my favorite grayling hole, where I’d caught my largest fish. My first cast with a grasshopper brought a 31⁄2pounder. Four more casts produced four Working a grayling. more fish. Ed was busy hooking red salmon and graylings. The wind rose once again, and with it came the rain. Abruptly, fish stopped striking. I returned to the cabin and my warm sleeping bag. It was a good time to be alone with my diary and to read Tisha, a book about Alaska. The rain continued to pour, but the hardy fellows stayed out until dark. Tuesday was a lovely day. The rain and winds were gone. Even the pesty little black gnats disappeared. The quiet waters promised good fishing. We started at the Dolly Varden hole. The fish, hungry after the storm, took our flies eagerly. Everyone had a turn at a big fish, and there was a good deal of excitement. Hal exuded the greatest verbal enthusiasm. When he was “in the bucket,” everyone knew it. In our elation, we decided to have a cookout and passed the word to keep fish for dinner. Paige Myers fished upstream some 50 yards from me, while Jim scanned the area with a pair of binoculars. Suddenly, we heard her shout, “Two! There are two!” Had she spotted two rising fish? She rushed toward us. “Where?” Jim shouted. Paige pointed in the direction of the hill above her. Bears. Two cubs that Jim estimated to be about 400 pounds each were watching us. While Jim looked for mama bear, I rushed to the boat for my camera. Fortunately, I had borrowed a telephoto lens. I had not used it yet, so I tried hard to remember all the instructions. The cubs remained in sight for quite some time, silhouetted against the flaming sinking sun. Jim called to his sons to warn the others, who were fishing the Narrows directly below the bears. The boys rushed to them, and young Jeff shouted, “Bears! Bears!” The startled men simply moved over to the other side of the Narrows and went on with their fishing—they never did see the bears. The cubs themselves appeared charming and almost harmless. They frolicked at the top of the hill about 200 to 300 yards away and disappeared over the hill with the setting sun—one of the most exciting sunsets I have ever experienced. On Wednesday, the wind blew all day. In the afternoon we went to the lake’s sheltered side near our lodge. I had fished just as hard as the men all week, but in this wind, my line went nowhere. I reluctantly gave up. It was still windy on Thursday, but the sun was out. We decided to tow a boat along the shore to the grayling spot, the only place untouched by the wind. Hal was determined to land a trophy fish. We fished intently, but a 31⁄4-pound fish was the best recorded by my little scale. On Friday, Hal took Paige and me to his favorite spot. He was eager to try out the new fly he created the night before: Paige’s Pod. It was an imitation of an isopod, the small freshwater crustacean we found in all the graylings we kept. We cast from the anchored boat. Trying to avoid my two companions, I cast badly. Fishing from a boat was constricting. I preferred wading. Still we caught a lot of fish, all graylings. The water was so deliciously clear that I saw fish take my fly a few yards away. My largest catch for the morning weighed 33⁄4 pounds. In the afternoon I fished the Narrows for a while, absorbed in the majestic beauty of the surroundings. Suddenly the calm was shattered by Hal’s usual outburst, signaling yet another big fish. This time he was into a really big fish. He hollered for us to bring a boat around to help him land it. We all watched the big one make a series of runs; then it was lost. Soon after this, I got a strike and felt a tremendous tug. I was puzzled. This was the strongest pull I’d felt all week. I hoped it wasn’t a red salmon. The fish surfaced and leaped high into the air, flashing gold and silver. It was a very large fish, but not a salmon. It pulled away from me with a powerful surge, taking out much of my backing. “A monster! A beauty!” I cried out. Paige, standing near me, shouted encouragement. The fish took off again with more power than I thought possible. I stood there in utter helplessness and watched it jump once more, then there was a sudden, sickening slack. The leader had broken. The fish was gone. I didn’t even know what kind it was. I felt numb and drained. Mel was nowhere in sight and oblivious to my brief glory. I should give up, I told myself—for that afternoon at least. To be given another such experience by a fish would be too much to ask for. Then again, what I went through perhaps was the mystery of fishing: I knew it would happen again; I could even land one next time. I was now hooked and shared the feelings of all the fishermen in the world. I lay down my rod and tried to recover by taking photos of the sunset. In the evening we sat around and for the last time reminisced about fishing. A grayling. We were homebound the next day. I sensed a feeling of certain sadness on this evening before our departure. The adventure was coming to an end. Our mood, however, changed to that of joy and expectation as we planned another trip for the next year. I witnessed much during this trip: the fishing camaraderie, the techniques and the imagination and creativity of good fishermen, the thrill and the strike of the big fish, and the beauty of unspoiled wilderness. I don’t know if I will ever become as seriously religious, artistic, philosophical, or intellectual about fishing as so many of Mel’s friends, but I know I had a great time and hope for more. I will return next year and the years after that. " Fanny Krieger is a founder of the Golden West Women Fly Fishers and the International Festival of Women Fly Fishers. In 1994 she was inducted into the Northern California Council/Federation of Fly Fishers Hall of Fame for contributions to the world of fly fishing. SPRING 2005 13 Islamorada with Charlie Causey by Nathaniel P. Reed C HARLIE CAUSEY, MY FRIEND and but spends time on tarpon and permit. weight rod overloaded with an 11-weight compatriot in the battle against He has restricted his guiding to about 150 line. the rape of the Florida Keys, invit- days a year and only guides “longtime” A P RIL 28 ed me for three days of bonefishing with anglers. Eddie Wightman, the great bonefish Off at 8:30 A.M. in Charlie’s super skiff. Eddie has come to the conclusion that guide. I had to miss the first day because the best backing for bonefish is 20- Eddie had schools of small tarpon locatof an endless meeting, but got on the pound monofilament. The stretch of the ed that would make a good start for any road with great expectations and excite- mono keeps the fly secured in the bone- day. We stopped on the deepwater side of ment the afternoon of 27 April 1998. fish’s mouth. After years of using Dacron a bank. Eddie said excitedly, “They’re still The long drive ended with a delightful and noting that many bonefish were able here!” The bottom was a mixture of dark reception by Charlie and his wife Marby to lose the fly after a long run, Eddie grass and rock, which, with the slanting at their truly wonderful property on the tried mono and is convinced that the sunlight, caused me serious problems in seeing either an individual tarpon or any bay side of Islamorada. Charlie and losses have been dramatically reduced. cruising schools. The tarMarabeth (Marby) are the pon were also a dark color conscience of the upper that made them very diffiKeys, where avarice and cult to see. Eddie, however, greed run rampant. Charlie had no problem finding serves on every possible them, pointing out individboard dedicated to slowing ual tarpon with his pole. and controlling developI jumped a 15-pounder ment, attempting to curand lost another after a savtail the terrible pollution age strike. Charlie hooked problems caused by the a bigger tarpon, perhaps 30 Key’s 4,000 cesspool and pounds, that threw the 8,000 leaking septic tanks. hook after a busting jump. “It is frustrating, even deFinishing with the tarpon, pressing, but my love of at 10:30, we crossed Florida the Keys drives me on,” Bay to an endless flat where Charlie says. Marby is “all Eddie was sure numerous things”—wife, homemakbonefish would be found. er, ally, and expert researchBefore lunch, I landed a 6er trained by years of work pound bonefish, but then in investment banking at Author (right) with giant bonefish and Charlie Causey. we suffered through a long, one of Wall Street’s best slow two hours without a firms. Charlie “found” the upper Keys while Eddie believes the best shots at bone- sighting as the tide fell and began to flow making his own waves on Wall Street fish are directly in front of the fish or in. Finally, around 3:00 P.M., Eddie spotthirty years ago. He became a passionate school. The fly is supposed to land 4 to 5 ted a nice bonefish, which I hooked and bonefish fisherman. He fishes for the feet short and is tied with weighted eyes landed—a 7-pounder. An hour later, gray ghosts 100 to 150 days a year. He to settle swiftly. The next key is the Charlie cast to what appeared to be a poles his own skiff, wades soft flats occa- “Wightman strip”: a long, smooth strip. school of big bonefish. A fish took his fly sionally in snowshoes, and frequently It will attract many if not the majority of after one bump that turned out to be a 9flies to the Bahamas for two to four days feeding or cruising bonefish. Once pound redfish, a species that had been of “easy” fish, compared with the incred- attracted, you’re supposed to let the fly nearly fished out by the commercial fishibly bright fish of the Florida Keys that settle and then bump it with smooth, ermen, but are making a great comeback are hunted and attacked daily by too small strips, rod tip near or in the water, throughout their range. At 4:30, Eddie many guides and too many fishermen. then speed the fly up if a bonefish gives spotted another large bonefish that I Now sixty-two years of age, he loves to chase, and hand strike. The key is to not hooked and landed—an 8-pounder. Home at 5:30 P.M. A long day of polfish alone, loves to wade. make any jerky movements; everything ing, a wonderful experience. Charlie and Eddie Wightman have must be smooth. been fishing together for twenty years. Eddie and Charlie like crab patterns They know how to have fun together. that they tie themselves. The critical facA P RIL 29 Eddie came to the Keys as a boy of six. tor is the weight of the eyes: a light fly for It was windy at 8:30 A.M.; 10 to 15 mph, He’s been in love with fishing ever since. shallow water, a heavy fly for deep water. Now fifty-seven, thin, lithe, 5-feet-8- “Get the fly down to the bonefish’s level growing to 15 to 20 mph by noon. A inches tall, 165 pounds of muscle, he is a quickly” is their mantra. As for rods, they strange cloud cover cut visibility; high magnificent poler and fishing guide. both believe that to cast effectively in the cirrus with fifty percent cumulous lowEddie has been guiding since he was six- common 15- to 25-knot winter and level clouds. We experienced frequent teen years old and prefers bonefishing, spring winds, the best outfit is a 10- blackouts because of the scuttling clouds. 14 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER There were warnings of heavy afternoon rains as El Niño’s weather pattern persisted. Off at 8:30 A.M. I asked “permission” to try for one of the giant, highly educated Islamorada local bonefish. Eddie quipped, “They all have Ph.Ds.” There are four or five flats right off the bay side of Islamorada. Lignumvitae Key, which I helped preserve way back in 1967, was in the background. The bonefish on these flats are among the largest anywhere in the world. They are pummeled by hopeful anglers daily. Some of the largest fish feed only at dawn, in the evening, and at night. Eddie swore that they can feel, see, and smell anglers. Even a perfect cast is regularly rejected. Eddie likes the incoming tide with the wind behind it. “Nat, this flat is ‘Failure Flat,’” said Eddie, fastening his eyes on me. He immediately spotted bonefish muddying around the edges of the flat. I had four good shots at three singles and a pair. Eddie’s summary was that I had made “one perfect cast, two good casts, and one disastrous cast.” The four fish either ignored the fly or fled. Flat #2 had several large bonefish, but they were still in the deepwater edge, and we couldn’t really see them well. At the far end of the flat, a pair of large bonefish began to mud. Eddie positioned me perfectly. A good cast produced a take, but I lost the line while trying to hand strike—and the bonefish was gone. Recriminations, disgust, and begging forgiveness—what a bonehead! It was the largest bonefish I’d ever cast to or hooked and I blew it! Convinced that I was done for the trip, I was feeling down, defeated, and out. The next flat was covered with “Ts”— wooden cross bars that have been put on the flat by researchers to measure the nutrient load from birds on a frequently tide-flushed flat. The fifty-odd crosses make it look like a graveyard. Every one of the perches had a bird sitting on it: terns, gulls, and cormorants. As we poled onto the flat, Eddie said that he could see a number of bonefish feeding. While lengthening line, I hooked a needlefish that caused a long delay while Charlie and Eddie repaired the leader. It took longer than anyone expected because several sections of the Ande leader needed to be replaced. The first fly, which Charlie selected from his vast array of crab flies, fell apart while being tied on the leader, so he had to search again for the “perfect” fly. Finally, just before 11:00 A.M., we were ready. Eddie peered across the flat and said, “Hey, the bonefish are still feeding!” I blew the next three opportunities in a row: all at major bonefish. I either cast too long, too short, misplayed the Wightman strip, couldn’t see the fish until they were too close, you name it— it happened. Finally, I cast at a large solo bonefish off the starboard bow of the skiff. The fish was feeding into the wind tide, busy muddying. The fly fell 5 feet upstream of him and sank. As the fly was swept to the fish by the tide, I gave it one smooth strip, and to everyone’s surprise, the bonefish swam over and ate the fly. The bonefish fled the flat through the bird stakes. “Nat, take the drag off; Charlie, start the engine!” Eddie was in control. I cleared the line from the stakes, Eddie poled the skiff off the flat, and we began the chase. I had lost more than 150 yards of line and was sure the bonefish had swum around Channel Marker #12, a tall concrete post that was covered with barnacles. “Hold on, Nat,” bellowed Eddie, and “Keep off the drag!” I don’t know why the mono backing wasn’t cut by the piling or the growth on the piling, but we cleared it. After reeling in a huge amount of backing, which took me awhile, we were confronted with the next hurdle: the bonefish had doubled back, headed “upstream” into the tide, and had turned around a stone crab pot line. The line, of course, was covered with a mass of sharp, clinging shells and barnacles that should have cut the mono backing—but it didn’t. Charlie reached overboard and lifted the backing up over the float. Again, I spent a frantic minute’s time reeling in a minimum of 150 yards of backing and 35 yards of fly line. The next obstacle was an anchored boat with three anglers fishing for tarpon. The bonefish headed for their anchor line. Eddie called out, “Would you lift your anchor?” The three fishermen responded instantly, pulling up their 20 yards of anchor line. What a refreshing, reaffirming act. It is becoming rarer and rarer to encounter anglers in a choice spot who would understand and react so quickly. The bonefish turned and went back upstream, into the tide, and then doubled back around Channel Marker #11. Eddie chased him, drove the skiff upstream, and again the backing slid off the channel marker without being cut. I handled one more exciting long run that took the bonefish onto a small flat west of the channel marker. There I was finally able to get the backing onto the reel and successfully finish the fight with the fly line on the reel. After a full fifteen minutes of holding the bonefish, trying to turn him over, trying to get him to come to the surface, without results, I wondered out loud if the hook had slipped and that the bone- fish was foul hooked. Finally, forty-eight minutes after being hooked, Eddie reached down and handtailed the bonefish. “Good heavens, Charlie, look at this bonefish!” They were in my way and I could only hear Charlie say, “My God, he’s a genuine monster!” The bonefish was stocky—35 inches long; bulging—20 inches thick around the shoulders; and heavy, all the way to its tail. I think it had to be a female filled with roe. Eddie admitted, “It’s bigger than my personal record of 15.6 pounds.” Charlie added, “It’s bigger than my 15.12pounder.” We quickly photographed and released the monster. It was firmly hooked in the corner of its mouth. The bonefish was so strong that I could not lift it with a 10-weight rod bent double! Think of pulling an 11-weight line around for forty-eight minutes. Rarely have I fought a more determined fish. During lunch, the “battle scene” was revisited, and each obstacle described vividly. Finally, Eddie said, “You know, it was meant to be. The needlefish, the new leader, the long pause, a change of flies, the obstacles—all of that—it was meant to be.” I’d always wanted to catch a really large bonefish. Charlie and Eddie are convinced the fish must have weighed between 16 and 18 pounds, a potential world record (except for assistance in clearing the crab pot float), but a “life fish.” As I have no interest in killing a bonefish, the potential world record is meaningless. On the long drive home, through torrential rain, I had plenty of time to relive the fight and realize that this was the largest bonefish that I had ever seen, the largest bonefish that I will ever hook or land. It was meant to be! There’s a 40-pound permit out there, somewhere! " Nathaniel Reed is a keen fisherman who loves snook, bonefish, tarpon, Atlantic salmon, and permit adventures. Reed has served as founder of the Florida Department of Environmental Protection and 1000 Friends of Florida; assistant secretary of Fish and Wildlife and Parks in the U.S. Department of the Interior; vice chairman of the National Audubon Society, the Nature Conservancy, and the Everglades Foundation; and a member of the board of the Atlantic Salmon Federation. His mother once commented, “Nathaniel was born with a fly rod in his hand!” SPRING 2005 15 My Search for the Perfect Fishing Hat by Robert H. Berls If you scratch an event, you get an idea. !Annie Dillard, Living by Fiction G OOD FISHING HATS are hard to find. Many anglers do not give the matter a thought, and their heads reveal their mindlessness. Baseball caps, powder blue porkpies, and dubious cowboy hats predominate; all fail in their several ways. Little is written about fishing hats, and I cannot recall any thorough coverage of “covers,” as we used to say in the Army: as in “uncover when entering a building except when bearing sidearms.” The Army gives a lot of thought, even research, to hats, costing God knows how many millions. All the more surprising when the best they could do for their new helmet is one that resembles the World War II Wehrmacht field soldier’s “pot.” I even have one of the latter in a closet (a souvenir), complete with the original owner’s initials, and brown stains that may be blood, on the leather head band. (Don’t get any ideas about how old I am—an uncle gave it to me.) It’s in a closet lest a visitor wonder about my politics or whether I also have a black leather jacket and a Harley in the garage. But I digress. Charles Ritz was fussy about his angling headcover, but then he was fussy about everything in a useful sort of way. Reputedly he had his fishing hats made to order in a little shop on the Place Vendôme. In scrutinizing the photographs in his angling autobiography, I like the panache of his hats, but not their practicality. And now we get to the subject of this article: most fishing hats have This piece first appeared in the Spring 1987 issue of the Anglers’ Club Bulletin. 16 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER neither flair nor practicality, and some have one but not both. I have concentrated much thought and effort, and more than a few bucks, in a relentless search for a fishing hat that combines the practical features I think fishing hats need with some grace of line that lifts Fussy angler Charles Ritz. them beyond the pedestrian. No baseball caps, porkpies, or urban cowboy Resistols for me. Let’s examine what should go into a satisfactory fishing hat: it must protect the head, face, and neck from the sun, and shed showers if not hard rain. (I avoid using the hood of my rain jacket, but when it pours, the hood goes up.) Lightness is important. I know that there is a school of hat-wearers indigenous to southwestern Montana river who think that heavy suede-leather cowboy hats are desirable since their weight requires more wind to drive them off your head. But let them stand knee deep in a weed bed on the Letort, say, on a 90-degree day when you can see the AMFF file photo humidity, and they will yearn for a lightweight hat. Besides, you can always put a thong on your hat and tuck it under your chin when the mistral blows. Gary Borger does this, and I’m with him. The hat must be dark colored; of this I am convinced. I have seen too many red or yellow baseball caps flashing like a lighthouse from a quarter-mile up- or downstream when I cannot even discern the angler’s figure. Many of these caps have bright white fronts, usually ornamented with the name of somebody’s tackle shop, bar, or bowling team. I remember an angler standing in deep shade on a Montana spring creek, nearly invisible but for the white front of his cap signaling “here I am” to the trout who were probably rolling in the aisles between the weed beds. The pale tan or gray often found on caps or cowboy hats is scarcely better. I have a color slide of myself, taken on that same spring creek, wearing dark waders and dark vest and a tan hat: that hat socks you right in the eye—brilliant with reflected Montana sunlight. Charles Brooks went as far as to wear camouflage netting over his face, along with his dark hat, to prevent reflected light. If I had encountered him on the Firehole in such a getup, I would have fled, convinced that Sheriff Johnny France got the wrong mountain man up there in the Spanish Peaks. Examination of photos of Brooks wearing his properly dark hat, however, reveals a narrow brim. I believe that a broad brim—3 inches minimum—would have shaded his face enough so that he would not have had to resemble a survivalist fruitcake on the lam. Lefty Kreh has seen the light. I note his observation about fishing on the English chalk streams with that astute British angler John Goddard. Goddard, in the photos I have seen, always sports a dark green cap and shirt. Lefty says that his khaki vest repeatedly spooked trout despite careful approaches. Lefty came home and dyed one of his vests green, but is silent about hats. One of the rare pieces of angling writing to notice hats is Art Lee’s pleasant article about the Canadian salmon guide Richard Nelson Adams. Adams wears an admirable, broad-brimmed, dashing Borsalino on the river. Such a hat approaches my Platonic ideal head-cover with the one flaw that it is light colored. But then salmon may not be as wary as trout. For several years I wore a hat known infelicitously as an “up-downer” or a “Florida fishing hat.” You know the kind: a long-billed cap with a flap attached to the back so that you can turn it down to keep the sun off your neck. At first these were only available in tan, but progress marched on, and you can get them in dark green, navy blue, or camouflage. Further progress through chemistry brought them out in Gore-tex: good for showers. Such hats suffer, to me, three shortcomings: the back brim is not broad enough, and it is cut up on the side, allowing part of the neck and side of the face to burn and to reflect light. Not least, they have as much panache as an old shoe: Charles Ritz would not have been caught dead in one. By now, if you are still here, you will have perceived the requirements of what I believe to be essential in an angling hat: dark colored with a broad brim, light weight, and some flair to it. The brim should be turned down front and back: not only for dash, but also to allow rain to drip off rather than puddle on the brim and pour into your fly box when you bend your head to see what fly the trout will next refuse. Fur felt is preferable to wool felt. Wool felt is much cheaper, but it is heavier, coarser, and gets smelly when wet. Gary Borger, who gives careful thought to everything connected to his trout fishing, wears a similar hat, although it is a bit pale and narrow in the brim to meet fully my desiderata. But having fished with him, I can attest that Gary can catch almost any trout, anywhere, anytime. I am an ordinary mortal and need all the help I can get. Setting out the requirements of my hat is easier than finding one, and when you do find one, I advise you, it is not cheap. I recently located and bought a hat that comes close to my vision of goodness in hats. You could buy a decent graphite rod for not much more. Such a hat is made in Africa and is often seen, in photos at least, on the heads of so-called white hunters or on British managers of East African game refuges: fur felt, broad brimmed, dark, properly bent down front and back, and no flashy hatband. Hat people call them slouch hats: a soft felt hat having a broad brim that hangs over the face. I displayed to my wife this latest acquisition in the search for the ultimate fishing hat (I pretended that I didn’t hear her ask how much it cost), but she, not being the romantic perfectionist that I am, punctured my nonchalance by observing that my slight stature made it appear “that there’s a hat with a man under it.” But you can’t have everything. Further deflation occurred when I realized belatedly that my hat is similar to (beware cheap imitations) one made famous by “Indiana Jones” in a recent movie, making me feel uncomfortably part of a fad rather than having attained a pleasing distinctiveness. Other hats have been considered but were rejected after various mental experiments or field trials. The Tyrolean style hat’s narrow brim was sufficient reason for nonpurchase. Eddie Bauer sells a canvas hat called the “plantation” model. This hat is about as brimmy as you can get, but the canvas makes it heavy, and it is so pale that I wince to look at it. I have considered a dye job. Orvis and Lands’ End sell another generously brimmed canvas hat complete with brass grommets for vents. This hat also would require messing up the sink. I had a discovery this spring that sent an urge of near purchase through me: a feathery light, airy, parched-grass color straw hat in the slouch style with an almost broad enough brim. Just might do for the sweltering trout streams of summer, I thought, but I forced myself to admit that its paleness would make the spooky browns of the Letort dematerialize before my eyes. I thought of a dye job, but abandoned the notion when I considered what the hot dye bath would do to that frail straw. Straw cowboy hats are all the rage on trout streams now, and not only in the West. An angling companion, otherwise a soberly dressed attorney-at-law, arrives in Montana every year wearing cowboy boots, jeans, “western” shirt, denim jacket, and a huge, pale, straw Resistol. He wears that luminous hat on the spring creeks where the trout can spot him almost as far off as I can. I am certain that this explains why I usually catch more trout than he does. But at least he does not bend up the sides of the brim vertically: a common practice of cowboy hat–wearing anglers that mindlessly negates the advantage of wearing a broad-brimmed hat. Another angler friend occasionally appears in a hat I covet: an authentic Australian army field campaign hat— broad brimmed, dark, showerproof, with chin strap and snaps so that the brim can be buttoned up on the rifle aiming side—a feature not needed by the peaceable angler, but dashing. I can see Trevor Howard in one now. This hat swaggers. The real thing does not appear to be available outside Australia, but ersatz imitations are around. The pith helmet has been adopted by an angling friend who thinks it helps to circulate air around his head. I suggested that he go all the way and buy the kind Orvis used to sell and you can get still at Hammacher Schlemmer: the one with the solar-cell driven fan that blows air around one’s head. He thought that was a good idea but was reluctant to walk into a bar in Montana wearing a hat with a propeller on it. The “shock of recognition,” as the literary critics say, hit me when I saw my hat in an article on Herbert Johnson, the venerable London hat firm (and where the “Indiana Jones” job actually came from) in a recent magazine article. I discovered that this hat, which Herbert Johnson call their “Grosvenor” model, has a long lineage and was preferred by Humphrey Bogart. Being devoted to the history and literature of fly fishing, I am pleased that my hat has an appropriate British origin. No doubt Herbert Johnson, or their competitor at Lock & Company, have on display the perfect fishing hat of my daydreams. On my next visit to London, I shall test my dream, but I concede grudgingly that all searches for perfection are doomed. You can, of course, wear any damn hat you want. " Robert H. Berls is editor of the Bulletin of the Anglers’ Club of New York and American correspondent for the Journal of the Flyfishers’ Club of London. He lives in Washington, D.C. Illustration from the 1886 A.G. Spalding & Bros. General Sporting Goods Catalogue No. 22. SPRING 2005 17 A Pair of Browns (Myotis lucifugus and Salmo trutta) by Robert J. Demarest Robert J. Demarest The little brown bat that appeared dead when first sighted. I T STARTED OUT TO BE an eagerlylooked-forward-to day of trout fishing on the Brodhead and Paradise Rivers in Pennsylvania. Bat surgery was never contemplated. And bat fishing was something that I had once read about, but it certainly is not something I ever considered pursuing.1 I would be fishing on private water with a good friend, Dickson—unquestionably, the best trout fisherman I have ever known. We parked, rigged up, and headed for the riverbank. Our hope was that we would see some rises. Dry-fly fishing is our favorite method, but it was late August, and the hatches were few. As we scanned the river, we were suddenly brought up short. We saw what we thought was a dead bat, caught on a branch of a tree overhanging the river. It was hanging from the end of a tippet, with the other end caught in the branches. We first thought that the bat had mistaken a cast fly for a live insect and, catching it in midair, was hooked and then frantically flew into the tree. More likely, an angler broke off 18 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER Standing in the river, we used the reel end of a rod for a hook and brought the branch down to reachable distance. We then broke it off with the bat still attached. It was a little brown bat, the most common bat in the United States. Now what? Fully cognizant of the possibility of being bitten, we planned our approach. I ran back to the car, where a versatile pliers, equipped with a wire cutter, resides for emergencies. With Dickson carefully holding the creature, I performed the surgery. We both made sure we avoided its fierce, toothed mouth, although I think it was too weak to be aggressive. The bat was hooked solidly, but we could see the barb clearly. By pulling on the tippet, I had a clear line to the fly. With the wire cutter now easily guided to the hook, I clipped it, freeing the bat. Unable to fly, it crawled into the bushes to recover. Our surgery done, we repaired to the stream. On the first cast, Dickson hooked a nice brown. He turned to me, still pumped up from saving the bat, and said, “It looks like there is a God.” while trying to retrieve an errant cast, ! leaving his fly dangling in the evening breeze. Either way, the bat Dickson Despommier found it. How long it had hung there, we couldn’t know. As we looked on, the bat made a slight move. Dead it was not, though life’s spark was barely flickering. Dickson and I were as one: “Let’s save the bat.” I think it was confidence in our dexterity, hubris, and compassion, all mixed up in the moment, but we didn’t hesitate. On reflection, it was probably a foolish move. Bats can transmit rabies, and although few people have been bitten by a rabid bat, it can happen. They also carry fleas, mites, and chiggers. Although I don’t exactly love bats, I have, as have many anglers, enjoyed seeing them swoop over streams and ponds on their early The author with the 24-inch brown trout evening forays, while fishing that ended his memorable day. just beneath their wings. By late afternoon, we had moved over to the Paradise River. It, like the Brodhead, runs into the Delaware, and lately some nice rainbows and browns have been caught there. The Paradise has an interesting feature: the Tunnel. It’s part of a huge, double-arched bridge, with the river flowing under one arch and the road under the other. A railroad track runs along the top. Because of its length and size, many people are uncomfortable fishing through it. I happen to love its cool darkness. The river bottom below the Tunnel is graded, rocky, and relatively flat. Wading, even in the darkest interior, is without surprises. Fish like to hunker down against its walls for protection, and a cast close to a side wall is usually the most effective. Because of the low light, an Ausable Wulff with a dropper seemed our best approach. The Wulff would be a visible indicator, and the dropper would be cruising about 21⁄2 feet below, just above the rocks. My dropper fly was a small Copper John tied to a 5x tippet. On my second cast, the Ausable dipped. I set the hook and knew immediately that I had a sizable fish. It came right at me and backed me out into sunshine. As the clear water of the Paradise revealed the fish’s full size, anxiety immediately set in. Worried about the small hook tearing out and the tippet abrading on the rocks, I gradually worked the fish to shore. Keeping its head up, I guided it as it beached itself on the small rocks. It measured 24 inches on my ruler-marked rod, making it the largest brown of my fishing life. Two quick pictures later, the fish was returned to the river. It will live in my memory book, and I hope it will fill someone else’s in the weeks or months ahead. The bat? When we checked, it was nowhere to be found. It isn’t every day that one can release two memorable browns. " ENDNOTE 1. Randy Wayne White, Bat Fishing in the Rainforest (New York: Lyons & Burford, 1991). Robert Demarest is the author of Traveling with Winslow Homer: America’s Premier Artist/Angler. In it he follows Homer throughout the western hemisphere, fishing and painting where Homer fished and painted a century ago. The Fishing Was the Best of It (With Apologies to Dana Lamb) by Gardner L. Grant I N AN EARLIER ISSUE of the Bulletin, Nat Reed and I wrote of our steelhead fishing experience in British Columbia. Time has sufficiently healed the wounds to allow me to recount another part of that experience, heretofore repressed. Our trip to the B.C. backcountry started in the town of Smithers. However, it was at Arapahoe Airport in Denver that our ordeal began. There the happy company of anglers boarded Mr. T’s plane for the flight to Vancouver and Smithers. The perfect host, Mr. T (no reference to the movie and TV actor of that name) served brunch and Bloody Marys soon after takeoff. Nat, Mike Owen, and I were relaxing with aprés brunch brandy when Mr. T announced, “Time for bridge! I’ll play with Mike!” Mike is a Life Master; Nat and I barely recalled Culbertson. Well, it was his plane, and how could a rubber of bridge hurt? “We’ll play Chicago for a penny a point!” To me, Chicago was a city on the shore of Lake Michigan, and a penny a point sounded reasonable. We were about to learn a new lexicon. “You’re down three, doubled, and vulnerable!” Vulnerable took on a totally new meaning, and the last time I had been doubled was a long time ago when I wandered too far off second base on a ball hit to the outfield. We deplaned at Smithers and boarded a float-equipped aircraft for the flight into the backcountry. That night, a few moments after the light from the Coleman flooded our camp, the cards and the scorecard reappeared and the carnage continued. The steelhead were holding downriver, and we decided to backpack to a tent camp some miles below the lake. Surely, after all this exertion, bridge would be mercifully forgotten. Right? Wrong! The light from the Coleman flooded the tent. Out came the scorepad, the cards, and the words, “Last hand, everybody vulnerable, your deal!” Mirabile dictu, even a worm can turn (even on a fly-fishing trip). As the week drew to a close, fortune smiled, the aces came out of the woodwork, and our skills became sharper, honed in the crucible of adversity. Approaching Denver on the return flight, the Reed-Grant team had drawn virtually even. The pilot came over the speaker, “Fasten your seat belts. We’ll land at Arapahoe in five minutes.” Mr. T dealt the last hand, the bid was seven notrump against us. Happily, I threw my cards on the table, saying “Too bad, we’ll never have a chance to find out if you can make it!” With that, Mr. T cast a baleful eye at me and shouted one word into the intercom: “Circle!” We did—and aided by my error, the contract was made. We settled up, said our goodbyes, and headed home to various parts of the country. What lesson can be drawn? Adding this to a prior experience, I can only offer this advice: never make a business deal on another guy’s boat, or you may never dock; never play bridge on another guy’s plane, or you may never land! " Gardner Grant is a Museum trustee, a lifelong compulsive fly fisher, and an enthusiastic, if bumbling, bridge player. This piece first appeared in the Fall 1984 issue of the Anglers’ Club Bulletin. SPRING 2005 19 Gore Creek: A Love Story by John Betts Photos taken by the author Top: Looking upstream at the Gore Range, the source of the creek, from the upper end of the golf course during runoff. Center: A short but very good stretch under the Lion’s Head lift. Bottom: A look at the creek’s less-accessible upper half. A FEW YEARS AGO my wife Betsy and I bought a small condominium at the upper end of the valley in East Vail, Colorado. The elevation is more than 8,500 feet. The sides of the valley are heavily wooded with aspen, blue spruce, and lodgepole pine. Their slopes drain down into Gore Creek. The creek, which holds brook, brown, rainbow, and cutthroat trout, passes within 10 yards of our place. The creek was one of the reasons for settling in this area. Betsy is very pretty and stands 5 feet, 13⁄4 inches tall. So far, science has been unable to find the three-quarters. She weighs 105 pounds. Wearing her light blue, purple, or raspberry ski suit and outfitted with skis, boots, and poles, she might get to 117 or 118. How someone that size can make as much noise as she 20 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER does climbing our outside stairs is more than I will ever understand. The sound is completely different from numbers of larger people going back and forth everyday. She is an expert skier with a clean classic style developed over decades. Apparently some of that rubbed off when she taught her kids how to ski on Tower Hill in Fair Haven. Her youngest ended up on the World Cup Freestyle Team. Skiing was her reason for choosing Vail. A third reason for both of us was the surroundings themselves; in many cases, they are without parallel. Because we both work on weekends, we take our time off in the middle of the week. We’d drive up from Denver every Tuesday afternoon and go back late Thursday morning. During the winter, she usually skis on Wednesday and I fish. She changes over to her mountain bike in the summer, and I don’t do much more than change fly patterns. For one hundred centuries, Gore Creek has run down through the center of the Vail Valley, which until the 1960s held only a few ranches. Today there are only about a hundred building lots left in an area 10 or so miles long and about a half a mile wide. The resident population fluctuates, but generally runs around 4,500. On holidays and weekends, it increases by many thousands. This crowd is made up of day visitors, visiting residents like ourselves, and vacationers from all over the United States and the rest of the world. To hear a dozen languages spoken in a restaurant during a single meal is not unusual. The developed areas on both sides of the valley—particularly a huge expanse of ski runs and trails on the south side— make up one of the most famous resorts in the world. Since the beginning, all of the construction has been done under increasingly strict control to prevent damage to both the land and water and to encourage the development of their recreation potential. The trout population in the creek is never superabundant, but at certain times offers anything one could wish for. This was true more than forty years ago when I first fished it. The difference now is that considerable stream improvement and development has added measurably to the amount of fishable water and access to it. Gore Creek is a freestone stream that begins in the snowfields lining the 13,000to 14,000-foot peaks at the top of the valley. From there, it drops more than 6,000 feet to its confluence with the Eagle River. The total distance is between 15 and 20 miles. The upper half is accessible only on foot. This part of the stream, above East Vail, is fast, narrow, full of big rocks, and guarded by very heavy brush along its banks. The bottom 10 miles from East Vail to the Eagle is all easy to reach by foot, bicycle, free valley shuttle, or a combination of all three. You can ride your bike downstream, which is downhill, fish, put your bike on a shuttle that has a bike rack, and ride the bus back home, which is uphill. The spring snowmelt is restricted to a narrow course coming down a steep grade. Confined like this, the water can rise 2, 3, and even 4 feet, particularly where the beavers have been busy, and stay that way for more than a month, even in a low snow year. Heavy snow years will increase the depth of the water and the time it needs to run off. At this time of year, the water is very cold and unsafe to wade. Unless there is a bank failure or unseasonably warm weather, the water remains clear all morning, but may color in the afternoon as the temperature goes up. The speed of the water—in places 8 to 10 feet per second— combined with sources refrozen during the night, will clear any cloudiness by the following morning. After runoff, its nat- ural clarity is due to the mature established forest cover on the upper 10 miles. The root mat beneath these trees is a very effective filter. In the lower 10 miles, the creek runs through the golf course, residential areas, and the town of Vail. Here sound design and maintenance have created a filter of similar effectiveness. One might think that the speed of the water during runoff in a small stream like this would render it unsuitable for resident trout and the insects they need for survival. Indeed, the scour is considerable and goes on for an extended period of time. While the hatches of caddis, stoneflies, midges, and mayflies are on the thin side, they are, when coupled with high water quality, enough to retain a healthy trout population. If there has been a normal snow pack and following spring thaw, the runoff usually lasts from the end of April until early July. The kayak course in the village. During the periods of the highest water, the creek is a popular run for local kayakers. They use it after work, or all day if that looks like a better idea than going to work at all. They ride the 10mile length down from East Vail and out into the “definitely gnarly” class 4 and 5 waters of the Eagle. Usually by mid-July, the water has begun to drop steadily to a level it will remain close to until the end of the following winter. Many of the fish in the upper reaches will drop downstream. Some will leave entirely, but more than enough will stay over. It is doubtful that many of the larger fish are lifelong residents of the creek. Even if born here, they may descend to the Eagle and grow to good size in the more fertile and larg- er river. When and if they return, it may be to find cooler water in the summer or a place to spawn. A number of these fish remain scattered throughout the creek all year. M OST I NT E N SE LY M ANAGED The creek itself is not large, seldom being more than 25 feet across. The water must be read carefully, and disturbances caused by sloppy casting and clumsy wading should be kept to a minimum. The character of the banks bordering the bright water changes constantly. It can be close, charming, remote, or urban, all within the distance of a few score yards. From the carefully designed alpine architecture around the covered bridge in the middle of Vail, one can, within a few minutes, walk to places that in the middle of the week or during the off season seem quite removed from any trace of human activity. At times the only sense of anything but the stream is all that I’m aware of. The intense nature and quality of the development on both sides of the creek attest to the value placed on preserving as much of the natural environment as possible. At the time of its inception as a resort, there were few regulations to protect the natural surroundings. There is no doubt that the original planners were not only aware of the site they had, but of its longterm value if it was preserved. They apparently felt that this value could be realized only if they restrained themselves and did not give way to unbridled expansion. If $6 million for a choice half-acre lot in the village is considered a benchmark price, then the value of the land held back for public use represents a potential short-term loss of hundreds of millions of dollars to the investors. The temptation must have been hard for some to resist. In the long term, however, their farsighted planning more than paid them back. A nice dividend to their effort is in the knowledge that their actions were both deliberated and voluntary at a time when there was little to encourage their being so. When the village center was planned, it was to be an area with little or no vehicular traffic. SPRING 2005 21 This still holds, with morning deliveries, a few residents, and municipal work being the exceptions. Apparently Vail has more acres of parks and open space per capita than any other community of its size or larger in the nation. No wonder it’s as pretty as it is. running through its entire length makes ment on both sides of the lower half of the creek is manufactured and managed. it unique. A new kayak course has been made in The wild evidence swimming around in the center of town by placing large boul- it is proof that the processes have been ders in the creek. Spring scour caused the very sound in both conception and exeplanned deeper water around them. cution. This water, just like any other, Kayakers will use the runs for a short will take care of itself when it’s given the period of time chance. Good trout streams are commonly when the water is unfishable. found running through towns in After that, there Europe. Gore Creek is one of very few in will be some this country. It is not a particularly new pools deep unusual stream except for what has been enough to hold done with it in relation to its location. trout for twelve The task was begun and continued for months. This is years by people who had little or no forthe most recent mal training in the field of development example of the as it relates to environmental managededication by ment. The talents they brought to the job the town gov- were common sense, prudence, and a ernment and genuine love of where they were pursuthe people who ing their interest. Parking is an expensive headache in support them to preserving all resorts. During ski season, Vail’s two and emphasiz- municipal garages are $15 a day and “free ing the image after 3 P.M.” To get people to and from the Mountain wildflowers on the Shrine Pass (elevation 10,000 and use of the hill without having them use their cars, feet plus) above East Vail. there are a number of free shuttle buses. resort. Some years ago the ski interests built Their use is encouraged by their convean impoundment above East Vail. It was nience and the costly parking facilities. F OR P UBLIC U SE put into place to supply water to the Three of the shuttle lines run alongside What has been done for public use is the creek. In the winter, they keep a fifsnow-making operation that would have otherwise drained the creek dry. The cared for with sensitivity and a high level teen-minute schedule from early until main entrance to the village and moun- of craftsmanship. There is an excellent late. One goes from the central terminal tain is through the covered bridge cross- bike and walking path that parallels the upstream to East Vail and back, making a ing Gore Creek. It cannot have been lost lower 10 miles of the creek. Alongside it number of stops. The round trip is about on anyone that seeing water in the creek are the famous Betty Ford Alpine 10 miles. Another runs back and forth beneath the bridge was preferable to a Gardens, a huge natural area with a 200- through town with a lot of stops every jumble of dry boulders, regardless of the foot beaver dam and occupied lodge that quarter hour all year long. A third goes season. They could only have hoped that are more than seventy years old, and a from the terminal downstream to West there would be a dozen or more fine wild nature center that conducts daily and Vail. Its schedule and distance are similar trout in view year-round. These fish plus weekly flower and bird walks and fly- to the East Vail line. All three are conseeing people fly fishing for them near fishing trips. What must be one of the nected at the terminal. Although nearly the bridge was a chamber of commerce’s most photogenic mountain golf courses all of the land beside the creek is privatedream advertisement. All that it required anywhere is also bordered by both the ly held, the stream itself is open, and to make it a reality was to keep clean path and the creek. All of the ponds on there are numerous access points along the course hold wild trout, as does the the bus routes. water in the creek. The approved residential and com- beaver dam. Anglers are mercial architecture in the central and asked not to fish in the outlying areas is almost invariably bor- ponds or in the creek, dered by hundreds of public and private where it crosses the gardens and planters. In summer, these course, during the are augmented by scores of hanging bas- months that the course kets from which every flower color imag- is open (May through inable overflows; all of it is meticulously October). Trout streams are tended by legions of phantom gardeners. In some spots, flowers and feeders attract sensitive to changes in their surroundings and dozens of hummingbirds at a time. The nature and quality of the devel- reflect the quality of opment around it attest to the value those conditions fairly placed on the stream and its protection quickly. A stream that is for all who would enjoy it, whether it’s healthy over a long perilooking at it, having a picnic alongside it, od of time provides a swimming your dog, kayaking, or fishing good indication of the Entrance through the covered bridge in it. The Vail Valley is probably one of health of the environto the village and ski area. the most intensely managed areas of its ment that contains it. kind in the country. Having Gore Creek Most of the environ22 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER W I NTE R F IS HING At about 10:00 in the morning during the winter, I carry Betsy’s skis to the shuttle stop about 75 yards from our door. We ride down to the terminal and walk through the covered bridge to the lift. Once she’s on her way, I buy a paper and stop at the tiny, partially underground Covered Bridge Coffee Shop. The Rocky Mountain News and coffee take about half an hour. I leave the paper for anyone who might be interested and start back through the bridge to the bus. I always stop for a minute to look over the railing at the trout moving in the water below me. The pool below the bridge begins in some fairly fast water. Finning the currents are usually eight to a dozen rainbows between a half a pound and 3 pounds. Below them the stream fans out into a flat about 50 yards long and 20 to 25 feet wide. Except during snowmelt, the water here is crystal clear, shallow, slow moving, and perfectly smooth. There are not only rainbows in this section, but brook, brown, and cutthroat. The brook and cutthroat go up to 12 inches, the rainbows average 8 to 16 inches, and the browns 10 inches to 3 pounds. An odd rainbow will be more than 20 inches. Sometimes one or two of the upstream fish can be taken with weighted nymphs and shortline techniques before the rest are put down. My choice here, though, is two #22 wet flies about 24 inches apart on a 6foot, 7X tippet of normal leader material. The extra-strength monofilaments are too stiff, too expensive, and don’t hold knots well. A tiny split shot is pinched on about 18 inches above the top fly. The entire arrangement is fished upstream with a fairly open casting loop. The length of the cast can be anywhere between 20 and 40 feet, depending on conditions. The water is read and covered just as one would do with an upstream dry fly. Fishing small wet flies upstream dead drift is one of the two most difficult forms of fly fishing I know. When used at the head of the pool under the bridge, four or five fish can be moved instead of the one or two raised using the more common approach. This is usually done in front of a gallery on the bridge who don’t mind watching someone else work. If I was a better wet-fly fisherman, I’d probably do better, but I find that fishing only the water at the heads of pools is confining. My real interests lie in the vague movement of the water in the larger area downstream. In this case, great care must be taken, as any sudden movement will put the waders, get my stuff, and take the next shuttle back to town. Once there, I have a number of options. I can stay there and fish, and catch the shuttle back when I’m done; move upstream and catch the same bus at another stop; or take the town or West Vail lines downstream and fish back up. In the summer, parking at the garages is free, so Betsy, if she comes, unloads her bike, and I take whatever bus I need to get me to where I want to go. In winter or summer, the bike path makes walking up- or downstream easy. Because I haven’t used the car, except to get to the terminal, I never have to walk back to it. Betsy takes the car home, and I’ll take the bus. Late summer and early fall fishing are best from the last half of August through November, again, with very small flies such as Blue-Winged Olives in sizes 22, 24, and 26. In the early spring before skiing ends, there is a hatch of small stoneflies (two species) and a decent-sized black midge (about a #20). Even though the water comes up a bit, it remains clear, unless the weather is unusually warm. As with all hatches, these progress upstream. Each week I get off the bus where I stopped fishing the week before. Again a pair of small wet flies or a nymph and appropriate dry fly on 4- to 7-foot tippets are Looking downstream from the covered bridge. effective. The entire hatch will last about a month. entire flat down for some time. Three- Increased runoff generally brings it to a weight lines and longish, soft, accurate stop. On a daily basis, it’s usually over by downstream casts and drifts presenting 3:00 or 3:30 P.M. Catch and release is size #22, 24, and 26 dry flies seems to be encouraged on Gore Creek, and this the most productive. Only rarely will allows the angler to symbolically “make a upstream offerings be accepted. Atten- good basket.” tion should be paid to fish that can be When I get back to the covered bridge, seen feeding even if their movement is I have to look over the railing at least one only occasional. Fishing tiny dry flies on more time. For me, looking at trout any6- to 7-foot 7X tippets in bright winter where is fascinating. Looking at them sunlight to wary, solitary fish in shallow over bridge railings is irresistible. I suswater that rise only now and then is the pect the same is true for many others. other hardest kind of fly fishing. After Late in the day during the winter the air watching the fish for a while, I get on the in the mountains is usually very still. The shuttle and go back to East Vail. smooth surface of the pool will reflect all If the weather is terrible—blowing, of the changing colors of the last light. below 20 degrees, or snowing really For a long time, there may be just one hard—I’ll stay home and write, watch rise. It will appear on the surface for only birds, paint or draw, or tie flies; usually a moment. I stay to see that happen it’s all four. It’s on those days that I can before I go. hear Betsy coming up the stairs. If the If I’m not too late, I’ll wait at the weather is any milder than the preced- bridge until the lifts close and meet ing, I’ll have an early lunch, put on my Betsy. I will have gotten a large hot SPRING 2005 23 chocolate with whipped cream and a huge brownie. We’ll sit on the solid bench beside the bridge entrance and talk about a day during which we did completely different things that we each love in one of the most beautiful settings in the world. We’ll tell each other how glad we are that we could meet up, then I’ll pick up her skis, she’ll carry my fly rod, and we’ll walk to the bus to go home together—and that’s our favorite and best part of the whole day. —December 2000 We recently sold our place. We have always thought of our time there as one of the most special treats we have given each other in the thirty years we’ve been together. In the creek this past April, I released more than fifteen fish heavier than 2 pounds and lost at least that many. The space between them was filled with many smaller trout of all four species. Most were taken on small dry flies, lines, and reels that I had made, and Jenkins’s split-cane rods. One was a 71⁄2foot 3-weight, the other an 8-foot 4weight that Betsy gave me for my sixtieth birthday. Our last day there I didn’t fish, but took Betsy to the lift, and then went to the coffee shop. The day was clear and very cold. At the top of the mountain, the view of the central Rockies was perfect. Water vapor had frozen into tiny ice crystals that floated about in the air, periodically bringing ethereal sparkle to everything in sight. This is a fairly rare occurrence, and for Betsy on her last day skiing, very moving. I waited for her later after the hill closed. We had some hot chocolate— they were out of brownies—and then walked through the covered bridge. Stopping a moment to look over the railing, I could see a rainbow trout of about 20 inches in clear shallow water directly below me. It was the last fish I saw in Gore Creek. We are blessed to have had this experience as part of our lives when there are so many is this country and elsewhere who cannot have it in theirs. —December 2001 " John Betts has at one time or another made every part of his fly-fishing outfit himself: hooks, line, reels, rods, and flies. He is a writer and artist who has been featured at the American Crafts Museum in New York. He lives in Denver. 24 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER NOTES AND COMMENT W hen I was ten or eleven years old, our family spent summers on Mallets Bay, Lake Champlain. Dad was working in New York City, so one day by myself I rigged up my late grandfather’s 9-foot fly rod with its reel, line, and leader and tied on (somehow) a buggy-looking critter, launched myself in a rowboat, and headed across the cove to what I thought was a likely spot to hook a bass. I found that by swinging the rod back over my shoulder, I could get out some line; then by swinging the rod in front of me, I could drag the bug off the surface in back and get out some more line up front. While I was performing this operation over and over again, my cousins Rick and Francis Hewitt came rowing toward my spot. When they got close enough, one of them hollered: “When you going to start fishing?” (I guess that was the beginning, but I didn’t know it at the time.) —DICK FINLAY Dick Finlay is a Museum trustee emeritus. He became a serious fly fisherman after joining Orvis in 1947. He helped Bill Cairns establish the first fly-fishing school and was one of the original Museum trustees. I started fishing with my mother seventy years ago at the age of six, and we were fly fishing together in Quebec, New Brunswick, and Ontario sixty-four years ago, from 1939 through the 1950s. In my experience, there is more good fly-fishing water available today than there was in the 1940s, ’50s, ’60s, and ’70s. Tailwater fisheries are extremely productive—a fairly recent phenomenon—and available to everyone. Catch-and-release and slot limits have all helped to maintain trout fisheries. In the salt water, declaring the redfish a game fish has greatly increased their numbers, and regulations on striped bass have brought them back in abundance. People have said to me, how about Atlantic salmon? Well, we certainly don’t have the answer yet on that species, but I had an interesting experience of today versus yesteryear. I was invited, along with son Perk, to fish Two Brooks Lodge on the Up- salquich in New Brunswick. I mentioned to my hosts that I had fished Two Brooks water some fifty years earlier with my mother. I don’t think they really believed me. But there were our names in the logbook. I believe it was in 1952 and 1953, very close to the same week we were there in 2000. Well, we caught a lot more salmon and grilse in 2000 than we did in ’52 or ’53, and in a lot less water—the province had taken over some of the camp’s best water for the public. Some of the great fishing of the good old days is due to selective memories. Another great plus for today versus yesteryear is the fly-fishing equipment. Up until 1950, we had to deal with gut leaders and silk lines, both of which failed most of the time. Our 3X gut was as fine as it got and had the strength of wet toilet paper. There was no such thing as fine fly fishing with 5X or 6X tippets and size 16 and smaller flies. Saltwater fly fishing was almost impossible before nylon leaders and modern fly lines, never mind the tremendous advantage of graphite over bamboo. Five days ago, I caught a 25-inch brown trout in a small spring creek on a size 16 Pale Morning Dun and 5X tippet with a 1-weight graphite rod. This morning I caught a 211⁄2-inch brown on the same outfit with a 6X tippet on a different spring creek. Both creeks had no trout in them at all twelve years ago. They were referred to as sloughs in cow pastures and had been that way for seventy-some years. Both creeks had the cows removed and stream improvement done. Neither creek has ever been stocked. I’ll bet my grandchildren will have even better fly fishing than I have enjoyed. These are the good old days! —LEIGH PERKINS Leigh H. Perkins is a trustee of the Museum and one of its founders. He purchased the Orvis Company in 1965 and served as its chief executive officer until 1992. He has served on many philanthropic boards of directors, including such conservation and wildlife organizations as Trout Unlimited, the Ruffed Grouse Society, the Nature Conservancy, the National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, and the International Game Fish Association. The Soque Sisters vs. the Foggy Bottom Boys by Stephen Sloan T Photographs provided by Stephen Sloan chipped in with Snowfly by HE SOQUE (accent on Joe Heywood and Modern the que) River runs through the foothills Streamers for Trophy Trout of the Blue Ridge Mounby Bob Linsenman. “I’ll tains, one hundred miles send you a copy of them north-northeast of Atlanta, together with my book, Fly in Batesville, Georgia, Fishing Is Spoken Here.” twelve miles from Clarks“No,” said Henry, “haven’t ville, a thriving rural farmread them but would like to. ing area of some five hunMr. Steeeve, you best be condred souls and two streets, centrating on your nymph. three restaurants, an anYou missed three fiiish on tiques shop (nice stuff), and that last drift.” a city hall. Johnny Mize, the “Henry, have you read all great slugger for the New those books?” I asked snagYork Giants and later the ging a bush on my backcast. New York Yankees, was born “Twiiiice,” he said, “some thrice.” in Demorest, Georgia, about And so the literary joureight miles away. I first The Foggy Bottom Boys, the Soque Sisters, and guides. learned of the river from an ney, two souls in simpatico article by Tom Boyd in North East Fly farmhouse that Friday, I was greeted by with angling literature, continued for the Fishing Magazine (October 2002), titled Abby and John Jackson, who own the next two days. Catching all those trout “Why Go to New Zealand?” The article Blackhawk Farm and 31⁄2 miles of the was incidental to the discussions we had described, with pictures, the fishing Soque River. The family name regis- about each book: the pros, the cons, the prowess of the Soque River running tered—I had just crossed the Jackson theories, the styles, each punctuated by a through the Blackhawk Farm. I called Bridge and was in Jackson County. They large trout being brought to Henry’s net. Tom, and after two minutes of conversa- introduced me to my guide, Henry, a It occurred to me that Henry had read a tion, he said, “Steve, get your butt down tall, lean, wiry man in his late forties great deal of the library inventory of the there!” I did. I checked a website, looked whose greeting was as follows: “Misster Anglers’ Club and the International bug-eyed at the pictures, made a plane Steeeeve (elongating all the vowels), Game Fish Association. I was hard put to reservation, booked the local B&B in weeeere goooing fissshing today.” God, I keep pace. Clarksville, and followed his general thought, as scenes from the movie advice: “Leave your 3- and 4-weight rods Deliverance flashed in my head; we all S O QUE S E QUE L home and bring 6- and 7-weight sticks. going to be drunk by three in the afternoon. Surely Henry has access to a local The fish are big and powerful.” As I left the Blackhawk Farm and the I arrived on Friday afternoon, fished still, and I thought I detected a bulge in Soque River that Sunday in November for four hours, fished Saturday for five his back pocket where a bottle of white 2002, I vowed to return. I did, in May hours (it was raining), and on Sunday lightning was stored. Never have I been 2003 with Rollie Schmitten and my son morning for four hours. Ready? I more wrong on first impressions. I fol- Bob. Rollie was head of the National hooked and released forty-two trout, lowed Henry down to the first run on Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS), Unitwenty-eight of which were more than the lower section. “Let me see you cast, ted States Atlantic Salmon Commis20 inches in length. My guide, Henry Mr. Steeeeve,” he drawled. I let loose sioner, the United States Whaling ComWilliamson, weighed one brown trout with a double haul, managed a tight missioner, and is now director of NMFS’s streamside with a boga-grip that went loop, and ended with a Joe Humphries Habitat section and a passionate fly fishjust over 27 inches in length and weighed tuck cast as I let the hare’s ear nymph fall erman. more than 11 pounds. But the fishing was first on the water. “Mister Steeeeve, We arrived, and Henry could only wadda you think of Schweibert’s give us one day’s guiding, so Abby arnot the best part of the trip. When I pulled up to the Blackhawk Matching the Hatch? Joe Brooks’s Trout? ranged for Candy Norton to guide us on Harry Middleton’s Along the Spine of the second day. Candy is an administraTime? Lefty Kreh’s casting books? James tor for human resources for the Forsyth This article originally appeared in the Prosek’s book on Walton? and Joe County school system near Atlanta and Spring/Summer 2004 (vol. 79, no. 3) issue of the Anglers’ Club Bulletin. Humphreys’s Trout Tactics?” Plus a fishes the Soque River with great regudozen more titles he rattled off. I larity. Saturday night, at dinner, she pro- SPRING 2005 25 posed that we all have a match with four fly-fishing ladies from Atlanta who were members of her club. Rollie and I accepted the challenge immediately. We set a date for the fall (18–19 October 2003). Again, Bob, Rollie, and I had fantastic fishing in May. Between May and August, I invited Paul “Terry” Shultz and Jim Klein, both members of the Anglers’ Club of New York, to become part of the challenged foursome. Terry and Jim have fished all over the world and are accomplished flyfishing anglers. Candy added friends Missy Schmidt, Gayle Rizzio, and Abby Jackson to her team. All had vast experience fishing the Soque and the Blackhawk waters. I searched for a name for this match, and it struck me as I watched the film O Brother, Where Art Thou?, loosely based on The Odyssey by Homer. “The Soque Sisters vs. the Foggy Bottom Boys” sounded just right. Terry, Rollie, and I all did work for the government, and Jim, as an accountant for Deloitte, surely had filed a federal tax return. The match was duly named. T HE C OMPETI TI O N The rules were simple: barbless hooks; no foul-hooked fish counted; all fish to be measured by a ruler supplied by me; and the river was to be divided into two parts—upper and lower. After an hour’s lunch each day, we switched positions on the river. We designed the times to allow each team equal soak time for their flies. The team with the most inches after we closed the fishing on Sunday afternoon won. Henry Williamson was the gillie for the Foggy Bottom Boys; Sam Rizzio (Gayle Rizzio’s husband) and Brooks Runkle were gillies for the Soque Sisters. The gillies could net, measure the fish, keep score, and take pictures, but not touch the tackle. At the first streamside lunch whipped up by John Jackson, Abby’s husband, the Foggy Bottom Boys were ecstatic as we took the lead by 200 inches. We were off to a great start. To prove a smile is a frown upside down, we learned late in the afternoon, sitting around the outdoor fireplace, sipping some beers and counting the afternoon results, that we were in deep trouble. Candy Norton posted her score of 901 inches in an 26 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER incredible afternoon of trout fishing. She released thirty-nine trout. The other Soque Sisters did well too, and the Foggy Bottom Boys were seriously behind by 788 inches. There was much whooping and hollering that night during dinner as we devoured some succulent pork chops with potato salad and other great trimmings. I suggested that each member of each team get up and tell what flies were used during the day—a not-too-subtle way of finding out what the hell Candy was using. Her report was an eye opener. She took thirty of the thirty-nine trout on a black caddis, #18 dry fly, a 5X leader, “Great,” Sam said. “These boys fell for it again. The lower section always fishes better in the afternoon.” Curses—foiled again. The second day’s brunch break found the Foggy Bottom Boys had staged a mild rally, now being only behind by 100 inches or roughly five fish. I tried Candy’s black caddis method, and to my amazement, it worked, and I released nine fish, all longer than 22 inches. In the afternoon we seemed to be running in molasses. The Foggy Bottom Boys never could get a good streak going in any one of the pools on the upper section. A fish here and there, but nothing hot. We got back to the Blackhawk farmhouse, added up the scores, and lost by 586 inches. The Soque Sisters won fair and blackcaddis square. The incredible fact was that eight doggone good trout fisherpersons managed to hook and release 5,260 inches or 433.33 feet of trout in two days of fishing in a competitive format. The fish averaged more than 21 inches. On reflection, many good trout fisherpersons have never caught a 21-inch trout in their lifetimes and still enjoy the sport. Terry Schultz caught the largest fish, a Stephen Sloan with a big Soque River trout. 28-inch rainbow that and a tiny split shot 15 to 18 inches above weighed well more than 10 pounds. the fly. She sunk a dry fly. She cast As we packed our tackle and loaded upstream and fished the dry black caddis our cars for the trip back to Atlanta, we just like a nymph. The Foggy Bottom all realized that the trout had won. They Boys were in a state of shock. Just then were all returned to the river. As Lee gillie Sam Rizzio asked me how long I Wulff often said, “A fish is too valuable had been trout fishing to be caught only once.” We were sure “Sixty-plus years,” I said, and Rollie? trout of the Soque would answer our “About fifty,” was Rollie’s reply. Terry? parting cheer, “Same time next year.” “About fifty-two,” Terry answered, and " Jim Klein chipped in with forty-five. You’ve got to watch out for those Stephen Sloan is chairman of the Georgia Hawgs, I sensed. Sam contin- Fisheries Defense Fund, Inc., and author ued, “How about you Candy?” of Fly Fishing Is Spoken Here (2003), “Three,” she answered, as did Missy. Ocean Bankruptcy: World Fisheries on Abby and Gayle stated they had “two the Brink of Disaster (2003), and Thanyears experience apiece.” atopfish: An Ocean Odyssey (2004). He “Well now, that looks like about two founded “The Fishing Zone” and “EcoZone,” hundred to ten in the experience the longest-running syndicated fishing columns,” drawled Sam. I made a move- radio shows in the country, concerned with ment that pulled the knife out of my fishery, ecological, and conservation issues. heart. This was an evil portent for the next day’s fishing. Before we departed, Sam, in a magnanimous gesture, asked me what section of the stream we wanted to fish in the morning session. I thought that since Candy had done so well that afternoon, we ought to hit her hot spot, so I said the lower part. LETTERS In the recent article by Frederick Buller (“A Hoard of Mysterious Salmon Flies,” Fall 2004, vol. 30, no. 4), there are photographs of several unusual flies. As I said in the sidebar to that piece, I didn’t think that these flies would be used in normal fly casting since their size and weight, either dry or especially wet, would make their use with a fly rod extremely difficult. There is, on page 101 of J. H. Keene’s book, Fishing Tackle: Its Materials and Manufacture (London: Ward, Lock and Co., 1886), a picture of one of these flies attached to a spinner; at the top of this page is a title “For Pike, Salmon, etc.” Chris Sandford, in his book, The Best of British Baits (Esher, Surrey, England: Chris Sandford, 1997, p. 41), says that the lure was made by W. D. Chapman of Theresa, New York. Whether or not this included the fly, I don’t know. Keene worked in both the United States and Great Britain. There could have been flies like this and those of Mr. Buller made in England and imported or made by someone, including Keene, in this country. Keene mentions the use of cotton batting to build up the body. JOHN BETTS DENVER, COLORADO I read in awe the wonderfully erudite banter with which Robert J. DeMott responded to Robert H. Boyle’s essay on fishing references in “Finnegans Wake” in your Fall 2004 issue, and his discussion of Ezra Pound and fly fishing. Stimulating stuff. However, I did raise an eyebrow at the suggestion that the 1829 issue of Charles Bowlker’s The Art of Angling could be regarded as the fourth or fifth edition. It is a complicated book bibliographically, and the 1829 is probably its thirteenth appearance since it was first published in ca. 1747 (an approximate date that is preferred these days to the 1758 cited by some sources). I see no real possibility of compressing the many issues so as to arrive at a chronology of the book that would deliver DeMott’s conclusion. For the record, I think it safer to refer to it as the “1829 edition” and leave it at that. DAVID BEAZLEY LIBRARIAN, THE FLYFISHERS’ CLUB, LONDON E-mail: beazleyd@globalnet.co.uk Lori Pinkowski John Cueman (left), Lisa Cueman, and Moira Gehring got into the holiday spirit as the Museum hosted the Manchester Chamber of Commerce’s annual holiday mixer. Chamber Mixer The Museum was host to the local Chamber of Commerce’s annual holiday mixer on December 7. We were concerned that the event would be canceled because of freezing rain and snow, but in spite of it all, more than 150 guests braved the elements to indulge on outrageous hors d’oeuvres (provided by Pangaea) and spirits. Guests stood in awe of the lofty postand-beam gallery with its classic Adirondack-style canoe suspended from the ceiling, then stepped closer to admire the Anglers All exhibit currently on display. Lively conversations could be heard throughout the Museum as guests made themselves comfortable next to the warmth of the fireplace. Others perused the Museum’s gift shop, where one can find an array of eclectic gifts, from hats and T-shirts to fly boxes and tackle to leather-bound journals and original artwork. This was the second area event hosted by the Museum as part of our goal to build strong community ties. It was a wonderful holiday party. —LORI PINKOWSKI DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Staffing News The Museum is pleased to announce the appointment of Rebecca Nawrath to the position of office manager and membership director. She joined the staff in January. Becky moved to Vermont with her family of nine (six siblings!) right after high school. She attended the University of Vermont, where she graduated with a degree in U.S. history, with minors in art and English. Her professional credits are many and varied, but she was most recently the office manager for the Manchester and the Mountains Regional Chamber of Commerce, a position she held for six years. Becky, who has lived in ManSPRING 2005 27 Jim Hardman —LORI PINKOWSKI chester for more than thirty DIRECTOR OF EVENTS years, is very active locally, having served for fifteen years on the Marketing Efforts local District Environmental Commission, as well as the state We will be implementing a Environmental Board, the body marketing plan for the Museum that oversees the state of Verthis year, beginning with our mont’s environmental law Act Grand Opening on June 11. This 250. She is a member of the Manevent will serve as a springboard chester Lions Club. for our goal of further educating Becky brings to the position the public about who we are, great organizational skills and a what we do, and what we hope to love for managing people and an accomplish in years to come. office. “It’s great to be able to put Our new website is currently my love of art and history to use under construction and will be in such a beautiful setting,” she “live” in May; however, our cursays. Lori Pinkowski (left) enjoys a chat with one of the many rent site is still accessible. We are Becky is married to native developing a new brochure, as folks who stopped by the Museum’s booth in Somerset. Vermonter and local attorney well as a packet for our trustees to Michael Nawrath. They have two grown complimentary booth space in Marl- attract new members and supporters to borough. As a nonprofit agency, it would the Museum. We are also working on a children, Ben and Molly. Please join us in welcoming Becky to be difficult for us to attend shows and press kit to foster relationships with the build awareness of our mission without media and to create additional awareour staff. their support. ness of the Museum. These pieces are —LORI PINKOWSKI scheduled to be completed throughout Trade Shows DIRECTOR OF EVENTS the year. We will also continue to nurture comThe whirlwind that has been my first munity relationships through educationthree months at the Museum has includ- New York Anglers’ Club al programs, hosting meetings/events, ed trade shows in Marlborough, Mass- Dinner and supporting other local organizations achusetts, and Somerset, New Jersey. through advertisements in playbills, proIt was another great event at the grams, and the like. Interim Director Yoshi Akiyama, Trustee Jim Hardman, and I attended both Anglers’ Club on February 3. Mary —LORI PINKOWSKI shows in January and had a great time. O’Malley and her staff once again created DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Jim was kind enough to walk me around a spectacular dinner with outrageous the show floor and introduce me to the cheesecake for dessert! We had a record legends of the fly-fishing industry: peo- number of raffle ticket sales thanks to Recent Donations ple like Stan Bogdan, Per Brandin, and committee member Pam Murray. The Joe Garman. I also met several incredible live auction had many day trips to local Robert H. Miller of Tucson, Arizona, fly tyers: Paul Rossman, Roger Plourde, waters and were well received by our donated a Horrocks-Ibbotson doubleDavid Brandt, and Bill Newcomb. In eighty-plus guests. A couple of longtime tapered silk fly line new in the original addition, I had the pleasure of meeting guests were unable to attend and were box; an Olson’s fly fisher’s tool; two bamboo rodmaker Fred Kretchman and greatly missed: our host and dinner Pott’s Hair Flies (Ketchum, Idaho, circa professional guides Rachel Finn, Barry chair Ian Mackay and dinner committee 1950), a Hodgman Wader Repair Kit Beck, and Cathy Beck. For someone like member Jim Baker. Our thanks to our (circa 1950); a framed original watercolme who is relatively new to the fly-fish- auction donors: Jim Collins, Equinox or by Don Pents, Miramichi River, N.B.; ing world, meeting these people was an Resort and Spa, Nick Karas, Carmine and a copy of Gray’s Sporting Journal honor. What I’ve found in this industry Lisella, John Mundt Jr., Quivera Winery, (April 1990) featuring sketches by Don is that everyone—and I truly mean Kristoph Rollenhagen, Ritz-Carlton Pents. everyone—is very friendly, lighthearted, New Orleans, Paul Jim Hardman and more than willing to share their sto- Rossman, Ian Mackay, Drs. Mark and Gary ries and knowledge. The shows were very good for the Sherman, and Richard Museum. We sold a record number of Tisch and the Potatuck memberships, as well as hats, T-shirts, Club. We also thank our pins, and other items. Many people event sponsors: Thomas David made a $2 donation for a chance to win Keesee III, Kristoph Tom Landreth’s Morning Mist print. A Nichols, lot of people inquired if we were open Rollenhagen, Mike and yet; all were excited to hear that we are Debby Osborne, Alexis and promised to visit soon. Members Surovov, Jeffrey Williams, stopped by to say hi, catch up on and Michael Nickitas. Museum news, and see the new Power- And, of course, a special Point presentation we assembled just for thanks goes out to our host Mary O’Malley and the shows. Joe Garman (left), Per Brandin, Fred Kretchman, and We would like to thank the Fly her staff at the Anglers’ Stan Bogdan enjoy a lighter moment at Marlborough. Fishing Show for providing us with Club. 28 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER Yoshi Akiyama DONOR BRIC KS An opportunity to make a difference and become part of the new home of the American Museum of Fly Fishing. Trustees Carl Kuehner (left) and Steve Peet take at look at what will be up for bid at the Anglers’ Club dinner. George W. Angstadt of Philadelphia donated the following books: The Year of the Trout by Steve Raymond (Simon & Schuster Inc., 1988, first Fireside edition); Great Fishing Tackle Catalogs of the Golden Age, edited by Samuel Melner and Herman Kessler (Crown Publishers, Inc., 1972); In the Ring of the Rise by Vincent C. Marinaro (Crown Publishers, Inc., 1976, fourth printing); American Fly Fishing: A History by Paul Schullery (Nick Lyons Books, 1987); Master FlyTying Guide, edited by Art Flick (Crown Publishers, Inc., 1975); Complete Book of Fly Fishing by Joe Brooks (Outdoor Life, 1965, third printing); The Joy of Trout by Arnold Gingrich (Crown Publishers, Inc., 1973); The Practical Fly Fisherman by A. J. McClane (Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1975); The Compleat Brown Trout by Cecil E. Heacox (Winchester Press, 1974); Selective Trout by Doug Swisher and Carl Richards (Crown Publishers, Inc., 1971); This Wonderful World of Trout by Charles K. Fox (Telegraph Press, 1963); Rising Trout by Charles K. Fox (Telegraph Press, 1967); Tying & Fishing Terrestrials by Gerald Almy (Stackpole Books, 1978); and Trout Fishing by Joe Brooks (Outdoor Life, 1972). Melissa Ziriakus of Evanston, Illinois, donated a first edition of The Found Fish by John McPhee (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2002). Paul Schullery of Yellowstone Park, Wyoming, sent us an article from The Big Sky, “Author died doing what he loved,” on the death of Datus Proper (29 July 2003) and an article from Vermont magazine, “Vermont’s Philosophical Angler,” about Harold Blaisdell (July/August 2003). Dr. and Mrs. Thomas M. McMillan of Medford, New Jersey, donated “Sheila’s rod,” a 9-foot, three-piece bamboo fly rod by the A. A. W. Co. (Newark, New Jersey) with a “Peerless” reel; spinning rod (#53727 impregnated bamboo); an 8foot, 6-inch, three-piece bamboo fly rod by Cross Rod & Co. (Lynn, Massachusetts) and the Forsyth reel, no. 586; an 8-foot Orvis Wes Jordan impregnated bamboo fly rod; and an Orvis CFO IV fly reel with extra spool. Chris Steer of South Yorkshire, England, donated a set of seven Allcock flies in a box: Royal Coachman #4, Silver Doctor #4, Professor #4, Par Belle #4, Par Belle #1/0, Brown Huckle #14, and Dark Montreal #4. James Baker of Madison, New Jersey, sent us an Abbey & Imbrie 9-foot, 10inch, three-piece lancewood fly rod and a 9-foot, 4-inch, three-piece Calcutta cane casting rod (maker unknown). In the Library Thanks to the following publishers for their donations of recent titles that have become part of our collection (all titles were published in 2005, unless otherwise noted): Stackpole Books sent us Bob Wyatt’s Trout Hunting: The Pursuit of Happiness; Dave Hughes’s Handbook of Hatches: Introductory Guide to the Foods Trout Eat and the Most Effective Flies to Match Them; Ed Engle’s Fishing Small Flies; and Hal Elliott Wert’s Hoover: The Fishing President. Frank Amato Publications, Inc. sent us Ray Gould’s Cane Rods: Tips & Tapers. And the Lyons Press sent us Nick Karas’s Brook Trout: A Thorough Look at North America’s Great Native Trout—Its History, Biology, and Angling Possibilities Bricks are $100 each. Bricks may be purchased singly or in a series that can be placed together to create a larger message. Purchasers are free to put anything they like on their bricks (no profanity). Each brick is 4" x 8" and has room for three lines of text of up to 20 characters per line. That does include spaces and punctuation— for example, putting “fly fishing rules!” on a brick would be 18 characters. Call (802) 362-3300 SPRING 2005 29 Ad to come PINE MEADOW HOUSE BED AND BREAKFAST Enjoy the charm of Litchfield country in our home built in 1836. Our goal is to offer you a unique experience in comfort and service. Decorated with museum-quality antique art, mounted birds, and vintage fishing gear, our home is an inviting place to be far removed from the the busy day. After a restful night’s sleep in your room with cable TV and private bath, wake each morning to freshly baked muffins, croissants, and seasonal fruits. Located two minutes from trophy fly fishing on the Farmington River, we offer guided trips by Paul Rossman. 398 Main Street • Pine Meadow, CT 06061 • (860) 379-8745 www.pinemeadowhousebb.com • prossmanfly@charter.net 30 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER Live Water Properties full-page ad SPRING 2005 31 You’re Invited to our Grand Opening Festival! Saturday June 11, 2005 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Come join us as we celebrate the opening of the Museum’s beautiful new home in Manchester, Vermont. Festival events and activities throughout the day include: •Fly-fishing craftsmen •Rodmakers •Fly tyers •Art exhibits & demonstrations •Local artisans •Interactive activities for the family •Fun, food, & entertainment And a raffle surprise! We will end the celebration with a gourmet barbeque hoedown complete with country music and dancing! A ribbon-cutting ceremony will take place at noon on the front lawn of the Museum. For more information, please contact the AMFF: PO Box 42 • Manchester, Vermont 05254 • (802) 362-3300 • amff2@together.net 32 THE AMERICAN FLY FISHER The State of the Museum AMFF file Photo T HE RECENTLY REOPENED American Museum of Fly Fishing—with a new building that is certainly an upgrade from the one we had on Seminary Avenue—is being welcomed as a significant partner in the Manchester community. We are right next to the Orvis flagship store on Main Street, and there is a direct path across their parking lot to our front door. Receptions for town officials and a housewarming sponsored by the Chamber of Commerce have been well received. Visitors have been highly complimentary, both of the appearance of our new building and of the quality of our displays. These compliments are appreciated and reflect the hard work by our staff, board members, contractors, and volunteers. Our library and gift shop add to the impression that we “did things right.” Yes, we are looking for a new executive director, someone to take responsibility for our operations and work with the board in our public outreach. As curator and collections manager, I have assumed additional responsibilities during this period of executive search, wearing more than one hat and serving as interim director. As we complete the move of our library and tie up the loose ends of reorganization and unpacking, we face another challenge: the periodic review from the American Association of Museums. We currently enjoy full accreditation, an important certification of our policies, records, and performance. As one visiting official put it, “Accreditation is difficult to earn and even more difficult to keep.” Our doors are open to you, and we welcome your visit. On June 11, we are hosting a grand opening that will officially open the door to the new life and history of the Museum. This is your Museum, your new building, and your organization. We hope you will join us. We truly thank you for your past support and solicit your continued participation! YOSHI AKIYAMA INTERIM DIRECTOR SPRING 2005 THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF FLY FISHING, a nationally accredited, nonprofit, educational institution dedicated to preserving the rich heritage of fly fishing, was founded in Manchester, Vermont, in 1968. The Museum serves as a repository for, and conservator to, the world’s largest collection of angling and angling-related objects. The Museum’s collections and exhibits provide the public with thorough documentation of the evolution of fly fishing as a sport, art form, craft, and industry in the United States and abroad from the sixteenth century to the present. Rods, reels, and flies, as well as tackle, art, books, manuscripts, and photographs form the major components of the Museum’s collections. The Museum has gained recognition as a unique educational institution. It supports a publications program through which its national quarterly journal, The American Fly Fisher, and books, art prints, and catalogs are regularly offered to the public. The Museum’s traveling exhibits program has made it possible for educational exhibits to be viewed across the United States and abroad. The Museum also provides in-house exhibits, related interpretive programming, and research services for members, visiting scholars, authors, and students. The Museum is an active, member-oriented nonprofit institution. For information please contact: The American Museum of Fly Fishing, P. O. Box 42, Manchester, Vermont 05254, 802-362-3300.