indian textile day

L A K M É F A S H I O N W E E K REPORTING FROM
FASHION’S FRONT LINE
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IN ASSOCIATION WITH
ISSUE No. 3, LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK
SUNDAY 4 MARCH 2012
INDIAN TEXTILE DAY
For the first time in its history, Lakmé Fashion Week celebrates Indian weaves and crafts where the spotlight is trained on
encouraging appreciation for the versatile character of our homespun textiles. Be there to witness the resurgence of tradition
and learn how the pace of the nation is guiding Indian design in a contemporary direction!
A sneak peek into India Textile Day
PROFILES OF THE PANELISTS AND SPEAKERS:
Umang Hutheesing
Umang Hutheesing is the scion of one of the most
historical, privileged families in the nation. He went
to the Babson College, USA for his under-graduate
studies in Business and Science where he graduated
with two awards of distinction and leadership, and then
acquired a Banking Diploma in Japan. He presently
holds the position of Founder President of Hutheesing
Heritage Foundation | President – Hutheesing Design
Company | Hon. Director – Hutheesing Visual Art
Centre | Member of Governing Body – Ahmedabad
Education Society and Ahmedabad University
Convener | Ahmedabad Chapter – Indian National
Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage | Co-Chairman,
NRG Committee – Gujarat Chambers of Commerce
and Industries | Member of Governing Council –
Ahmedabad Management Association.
Krishna Mehta
Designer Krishna Mehta constantly reinterprets
classic Indian design fundamentals with elegance and
sensuality. As one of the first menswear designers of
the country, she has received the Fabled Peacock
Award from the Government of Gujarat, CMAI
Award for Best Menswear Designers and TOI award in
recognition of her usage of natural and khadi fabrics.
She has a printing unit (PALAK) in Gujarat which
provides employment to differently abled people and
aims to make them financially independent.
Maximiliano Modesti
Maximiliano Modesti is a fashion entrepreneur based
between Paris and Mumbai since 15 years. A FrenchItalian MBA Graduate from I.F.M (French institute of
Fashion), Maximiliano Modesti was the studio manager
of Azzedine Alaia from 1994 to 1998. He has a deep
knowledge about Indian crafts and textiles (having
established Les Ateliers 2M in Paris and Mumbai) a
design and production center for luxury brands. He
collaborates today with the most prestigious brands in
France. Since the past five years, he has been deeply
involved in the recognition of craft excellence in India
and collaborates with UNESCO (Paris) to promote
and engineer the future of Indian crafts.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Designer Bibhu Mohapatra showed an interest in fashion
at an early age by designing clothes for his sister. The
road has been a long and winding one. Bibhu enrolled
himself in the Fashion Institute of Technology, New
York and while working on his design degree, honed
his design skills as assistant designer for iconic fashion
label Halston. The Fashion Institute of Technology
applauded Bibhu for his design aesthetic and honored
him with the Critics Award for Best Evening Wear
Designer during his senior year. This recognition
catapulted his career to the next level. Bibhu went on
to work for J. Mendel under Gilles Mendel following
which he launched his namesake label in February
2009. In January 2010, he was a finalist for Womens
Apparel 2010 Rising Star Award by The Fashion Group
International and in May 2010 he received the Young
Innovator Award”from the National Arts Club. In June
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LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK, THE DAILY Sunday, 4 March 2012
2010, Bibhu became a
member of the Council
of Fashion Designers of
America and in January
2011 he received the
Ecco Domani Fashion
Foundation award.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
Sabyasachi Mukherjee
graduated from NIFT
and
launched
his
eponymous label which
began with a workforce
of just three persons.
Over the years, he has
successfully built a
brand which has a very
social perspective and
represents a comfort
zone to global Indians.
Known for his use of
Indian textiles in a
modern context and the use of indigenous methods like bandhani,
gota work, block printing, hand dyeing etc in the construction of
modern silhouettes, Sabyasachi won the Femina British Council Most
Outstanding Young Designer of India award. Sabyasachi sells out of
three flagship stores and is a part of various multi-designer stores in
India. His future plans are to start an India-inspired kid’s wear brand
and to establish a contemporary clothing brand for mass India that
employs and thrives on weavers and artisans at a grass root level.
Seth Petchers
Seth Petchers is the CEO of Shop for Change Fair Trade where he
works to build the market and the movement for fair trade in India.
Prior Shop for Change, he worked with Oxfam America where
he integrated the agency's policy, corporate engagement, public
education and development work as it pertained to agriculture
and fair trade. Before Oxfam, Seth worked with the non-profit
organization Chocolate Matters as well as The World Bank's
International Task Force on Commodity Risk Management. Seth
began his work in fair trade as the first Certification Manager for
TransFair USA, the fair trade certification agency for the U.S.
market. At TransFair, his responsibilities included working with
importers and farmer cooperatives to remove obstacles in product
sourcing as well as facilitating new business relationships between
importers and farmers. More recently, he served as Board Chair of
the Fair Trade Federation, a trade association of North American fair
trade businesses.
CREDITS
Editorial
Editor
Jasmeen Dugal
Photography
Nitesh Square Photography
Kedar Nene
Designed and Printed by
SPENTA MULTIMEDIA
Under him, the company’s studio churns out hundreds of print
design ideas every month. His passion for textiles has led to a worldfamous personal collection of some of the rarest historical Indian
textiles from the thirteenth century called the TAPI Collection.
Stephan Siegel
Stephan Siegel is the co-founder of Not Just a Label. (NJAL):
a leading directory for showcasing avant garde designers and
nurturing upcoming talent. Set up in 2008, NJAL quickly become
an indispensable tool for the industry... helping designers gain
exposure and finance their progression independently by providing
an easily accessible retailing forum via its online shop. As part of
their scouting process, NJAL will look to local universities to
connect with these young designers to ensure they maintain their
creative output and will be giving lectures to students on the state of
the current international market.
Mamta Reddy
Mamta Reddy is a Maths graduate-turned-textile designer dedicated
to the revival of the traditional handpainted Kalamkari and other
declining crafts forms. In the late Eighties she happened to visit
Srikalahasti (the home of traditional Kalamkari art) and was moved
by the state of the once revered art wilting under neglect and
dwindling patronage and turned in to a textile designer with the
objective of reviving the art form. So she started personally living
among the artisan community and learning the traditional process
of preparing raw material, dying the fabric through various stages
and hand painting with ‘Kalam’ (Bamboo quill).
Darshan Shah
Darshan Shah is the founder of The Weavers Studio which
has established its position by setting up hand-block printing,
handloom and hand embroidery units in the vicinity of Kolkata.
The Weavers Studio has a design repertoire consisting of more than
20,000 wooden blocks, 1000 textile reference books, 500 old and
rare textiles from India and abroad and a R & D team that has
worked on topics as varied as Trade Textiles, Ocean Trade, Woven
Cargoes, Khadi, Jamdani Indigo Dyeing in Africa, Vietnam, India,
China, Thailand and Japan. The Weavers Studio offers diverse
options of surface decorations and embellishments from kantha and
tribal embroidery to kalamkari, metal thread zardozi, chikanwork,
appliqué work, pintucks and pleats. Their three production units
employ close to 100 crafts people producing approximately 700
meters of hand dyed, hand painted, hand block printed and tie dye
cloth a day and another 500 craftspeople are employed for weaving,
embroideries, surface decorations and tailoring. They also export
through their export division "Veda Commercial Pvt. Ltd" under
the brand name "Weavers Studio".
Praful Shah
Praful Shah is Chairman and Managing Director of Garden Silk
Mills Limited, which he transformed from a small family-owned
business into a household name with sprawling factory complexes on
the outskirts of Surat. With hisstewardship, Garden Silk Mills Ltd.
is one of the largest integrated polyester textile companies in India.
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Peninsula Spenta,
Mathuradas Mill Compound,
N. M.Joshi Marg,
Lower Parel (W),
Mumbai - 400 013.
Tel: +91-22-24811010
Fax: +91-22-24811021
Email: ho@spentamultimedia.com
Website: www.spentamultimedia.com
The views and opinions
expressed or implied in
The Daily are those of the
authors and do not necessarily
reflect those of
Spenta Multimedia or
Lakmé Fashion Week.
Unsolicited articles and
transparencies are sent
in at the owner’s risk and
the publisher accepts no
liability for loss or damage.
Material in this publication
may not be reproduced,
whether in part or in whole,
without the consent of
Spenta Multimedia
or The Daily Lakmé Fashion Week .
www.lakmefashionweek.co.in
3
Nimish Shah
RUNWAY
REVIEW
Priyadarshini Rao
Komal Sood
Suhani Pittie
Pia Pauro
Komal Sood showcased Joie de Vivre which took inspiration from
the vibrant celebrations of Holi. From floor-length gowns to sculpted
minis, the charming designer blended and contrasted colors with skilful
touches. The canvas of hand painted garments paved the way for the
cocktail circuit: the one-shoulder mini, the strapless orange crepe dress
and the red sari-draped mini.
When it comes to style, Pia Pauro has the Midas touch. Splashes
of neon livened the catwalk as garments in shades of orange, hot pink
and electric blue dazzled guests who cheered for the embroidered
yoke cotton blouson batwing mini, the waistcoats embellished with
mirror work, the hipster skinny pants, the beaded bundis and the gold
metallic sheath.
Nimish Shah reinvented kids play clothes with summer dresses,
midi skirts and feminine blouses... set to a lively retro soundtrack to
complement silhouettes that were evocative of the 60s and 70s. While
this collection evoked the artsy woman more than it did kids on the
playground, it aimed for an easy sensibility. We loved the floral printed
off-shoulder blouses and dresses, floppy trousers, unstructured cotton
jackets and hooded pinafores that often mixed prints, stripes and solids
in one look.
Payal Khandwala took inspiration from abstractionists, Mark
Rothko and Barnett Newman. Flowing long silhouettes with a hint of
androgynous effects gave the line an interesting touch. The construction
was interesting with angular zips on waistcoats and fluid pleated pants
under skirts teamed with cropped tops wrapped around the body.
From the studio of jewellery designer Suhani Pittie came the Child
of Eden which showcased the intricacy and craftsmanship of the Bidri
star print and the Chand Bali filigree. Using nature as her motifs,
Suhani had delicate leaves, entwining vines, roses, peacocks and spiral
rivets on cuffs, collar bands, neckpieces, belts, earrings and head bands.
We love the way she gave the Hasli a modern twist with a Bidri print
bow or a trellis with rose and filigree.
Working around a natural color base with neon shots, Priyadarshini
Rao played with fabrics and motifs... mixing the sheer with opaque to
steer a folk-y inspiration into edgier, modern territory. We loved the
printed bubble smock over an acid green voile skirt, the handkerchief
hemline skirts edged with lace, the crushed cotton shirts worn with
parallel pants and the lace gilets worn over puff-sleeve blouses teamed
with denim shorts.
Bhairavi Jaikishan showed a bridal collection of saris and lehenga
cholis embellished with resham, sequins, crystals and zari. Roses that
appeared as appliqués, 3D embroidery on borders and liberally splashed
all over the garments were quietly impressive. The cholis with draped
bodices and the gold corset worn over the sari pallav were highlights
of the showing.
- JASMEEN DUGAL
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LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK, THE DAILY Sunday, 4 March 2012
Talent Box
Mona Shroff
and
Pranav Mishra
ty
et
Sh
a
Shyam
Indira
Nitya Arora
Payal Kothari
Payal Khandwala
Bhairavi Jaikishan
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www.lakmefashionweek.co.in
Bibhu Moha
patra
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LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK, THE DAILY Sunday, 4 March 2012
Disney Couture Presents Memories Of Mickey Mouse And
Minnie Mouse By Little Shilpa And Nitin Bal Chauhan
It was back to the good old days of fun and frolic as Disney
Couture presented the collections of Little Shilpa and Nitin
Bal Chauhan inspired by Mickey and Minnie Mouse.
Celebrated for her exotic headgear, Little Shilpa has
been consistently displaying the most mind-boggling
headgear at fashion weeks but this time she moved her
inspirations to cartoon characters from the world of
Disney and displayed garments that had a quirky touch
and inspirations of childish elements. Her collection was
a delightful play of drapes in cotton net and Lycra silk
inspired by Pop surrealism. Adding on bows, polka dots,
stars, hearts and daises all associated with the Disney
characters, Little Shilpa teamed the striking garments with
headgear and neckpieces. We loved the asymmetric hem
jersey black dress accessorized with an elaborate turban, the
red silk giant ears sewn on the skirt of a gown, the beaded
black and white streamers embellishing a maxi and the
giant black ears seen as a shrug worn with vinyl tights
and white heart shaped balloons.
Nitin Bal Chauhan ensured that the theme
resonated in his collection of washed denim with
leather, canvas, fibre glass, acrylic, wires, metallic
gauze and even test tubes moulded into flowers
and wild headgear! Presenting a variety of innovative
cuts, prints and textures, Nitin opened the showing
with strains of a lone trumpet player on the catwalk
and sent out a white dress embellished with buttons,
high-waist denim, a jumpsuit and a sheath with frayed
detailing though the round of applause was reserved for
printed dresses and maxis with a Mickey centric print
and a black gown embellished with metal buttons and
Mickey inspired sleeves!
Behind The Scenes
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LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK, THE DAILY Sunday, 4 March 2012
RED CARPET
Pic Credit: Manav Manglani
Nargis Fakhri
Soniya Mehra
Jaya Bachchan
Simone Singh
Ileana D'Cruz
Amy Jackson
Amrita Puri
Kalki Koechlin and
Anurag Kashyap
Pooja Bedi and
Akashdeep Saigal
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