from a castle to a castle

korice_eng.pdf 2 18.3.2010 21:44:52
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Publisher: Tourist Board of the City of Varaždin,
Tourist Board of Trakošćan – Municipality of Bednja
For the publisher: Branka Tropp, Alen Sajko
Photography: Mario Novak, Miljenko Hegedić (Old Burgh)
Texts by: Volga Vukelja Dawe, Marija Grah
Translation and language editting: Volga Vukelja Dawe
Graphic design: Tanja Bunjevac
Tisak: Zrinski d.d. Čakovec
The gateways to a dream
Castles are the gateways to a dream. It may be a dream woven into
history, but a dream nevertheless. Walking through their corridors and
halls filled with finery and riches, peeking into the darkest of hidden
dungeons and secret passages, it is so easy to be carried away on a
cloud of imagination to the world of damsels in distress and knights in
shining armour. And it takes but little effort to hear the clash of swords
and the sounds of trumpets, but also the sweet song of the lutes,
and – and then tour is over and we are again on our way to the gateway,
only this time it takes us into reality.
For that is what exists in between castles – reality. People living their
everyday lives: working, building, loving, hoping and yes, from time to
time, dreaming. And that is the journey we would like to take you for.
A bit of this and a bit of that. And a lot of good time.
Tourist Board of the City of Varaždin
Tourist Information Centre
www.tourism-varazdin.hr
tel./fax +385 (0)42 210987,
210985, 201005
HR-42 000 Varaždin, I. Padovca 3
The project is supported by Ministry
of Tourism of Republic Croatia and
National Tourism Board.
coat
of
of
It
has
to this day.
In
of
the north-western
Varaždin
bought
the
arms
County.
remained
so
In 1923 the City
the
Burgh
and
by 1925 several of its rooms were already housing a
part of the historical core of the city of
Varaždin lies one of its best know picture postcards – the Old Burgh. On the outside it
permanent exhibition. Today the Old Burgh houses the City Museum, a must for every
is an unconquerable medieval fortification, but inside it is an aristocratic palace of the
visitor to this charming city. Initially the museum holdings comprised mostly the
Renaissance style. The Old Burgh underwent continual expansion between the 13 and the
objects donated by the prominent families and individuals of Varaždin. With the
19 century. In the 16 century the owners, the Ungnadi family, brought in Domenico de
passage of time the museum collections grew both in size and variety, and now this is an
Lalia, an Italian Renaissance builder who carried out restructuring works that turned the
institution which consists of six specialized departments: Archaeology, History, Cultural
Old Burgh into a “Waserburg”. The entire castle was surrounded by defensive walls, and the
history, Ethnography, Entomology and the Gallery of Old and Modern Masters. Having
motes bellow them were filled with waters brought in from the nearby River Drava. In the
been turned to a lush promenade the medieval bulwarks and motes are now serving
following centuries the Old Burgh had become an unconquerable bastion of the Kingdom
a much more pleasant occupation for the citizens of Varaždin and their guests, but have
of Croatia. Protecting its inner sanctum with motes, bulwarks, guns and troops, the
still retained their protective role – nowadays protecting from the ever more intruding
Old Burgh also ensure prosperity as for its owners, so for the city of Varaždin. Of all the
traffic and hubbub of daily life.
th
th
th
numerous owners the Burgh belonged to through the centuries, the Counts of Erdödy had
the longest tenure, and since they were the heritable governors of the Varaždin County in
1763 their family coat of arms was approved by the Empress Maria Theresa as the official
The Old Burgh of Varaždin
Tradition of goat farming
Zelendvor
in the Moravec family goes
(the Green
back some twenty years.
Manor),
For two generations now
one
they
100
have
white
been
goats
oldest organized
of
hunting
the
range of goat milk products at
the OPG Moravec (OPG - Family
Agricultural Homestead) has extended and
now, in addition to milk, includes cheeses:
with and without spices, feta cheese, curd cheese and yoghurt.
Numerous awards and acknowledgements they have received are the
result of a systematic investment into knowledge, technological
advancement, production capacities and love for the work
they are doing. The Quality Champion for the entire
the
tending
Saanen breed. With time the
semi-hard, smoked, with herbs, spreads
of
grounds
in Croatia, is named
after the manor which Count
Marko Bombelles, a descendant
of the old French nobility, built himself in
Petrijanec near Varaždin. His carefully thought out introduction of numerous
new species - from Asia he imported numerous types of pheasant,
from those of purely decorative nature to the game-type birds,
from America came the Virginia quail - he ensured that
the area retained its position as one of the finest and
best stocked hunting grounds in Croatia.
To this day Zelendvor has remained one of the
range of products award wan by the OPG Moravec
best hunting grounds in Croatia. In the centre
at three national competitions speaks loudly
of the place is a hunting lodge which provides
of their quality and success. At this point in
accommodation, and close to it a restaurant
time project documentation is being produced
where one can savour a variety of hunting
for the tasting room and the packing facility
and national specialties and delicacies.
within the homestead, where one will be able
Needles to say the gastronomic emphasis
to see the entire production process – from the
is on meat of the game reared in natural
she-goat to the finished product. The works are
expected to start in the course of 2010.
Bearing in mind that goat milk consists of particles
which are three time smaller than the cow milk, which
makes it much easier to digest, that it is also the most similar
to human milk, it is with justification that both the milk and its products
are called the fountain of health.
Moravec Homestead
environment and grazing on the indigenous
plants. The neighbouring rural households
secure a stable supply of freshly grown vegetables,
fruit and home produced cheeses. It is also good to know
that the operations are conducted in accordance with the
HACCAP system. Located nearby are small exhibition pavilions,
and in the immediate vicinity is an educational hunting trail.
The Green Manor
Klenovnik
is
one
the
largest
magnificent
Until
of
and
castles
1922 the
most
in
castle was resold
Croatia.
This zero category monument is located on a prominent
a number of times when it was
bought by Count Josip Bombelles – the last nobleman
hill on the southern slopes of Ravna gora. The first mention of the name of Klenovnik
to own it. In 1925 he sold it to the Central Office for the insurance of workers.
dates from 1244, and through the centuries it has changed quite a few hands.
The Central Office carried out extensive works which involved restructuring and building
According to the oldest inscription, located in the castle’s inner court yard – part of which
of two extensions to the north-eastern and south-western wings, each 32m long and
reveals the owner’s desire to built a home for all time: “Let this home stand until the ant
10,5 m wide, as well as numerous auxiliary facilities: large kicthen in the cellars and
drinks up the sea and the turtle walks around the world” - this early baroque, four-winged
a large dining hall in the basement. In 1927 the Sanatorium opened its doors, and the
two-floor building with 90 rooms and 365 windows was started in 1616 by Count Ivan II
function of the castle has remained the same to this day – it is now known as the Klenovnik
Drašković. Another inscription from 1667 tells us that that it was completed in that year
Hospital for lungs diseases and TBC. Thus has the once most prestigious of all the castels
by Ivan IV Drašković. Klenovnik had its heyday during the tenure of Ivan III Drašković as
in the north-western Croatia, and a cultural monument of zero category, been turned
the Croatian Viceroy (1640 – 1646). He was determined to make the seat of his family and
into a hospital, which makes this magnificent edifice out of bounds for any viewing.
of the national political power as magnificent and as spacious as possible, and that he was
But in 1963 the parks around the castle was declared a monument of park architecture,
successful in his effort is proven by the fact that sessions of the Croatian Sabor were held in
so take stroll through it to get the fell of times gone by…
one of its large halls. Klenovnik had remained in the possession of the Drašković family for
a long time, and it was only in 1850 that Juraj VI Drašković sold it in order to secure funds
for the expensive reconstruction of Trakošćan.
Klenovnik
The Gladović gingerbread trade was founded in 1939 by one Martin Gladović from
Klenovnik, and the business has survived in the family, at the same address, for 70 years.
In 1969 Martin was succeeded by his son Ladislav, and in 1981 Ladislav’s wife Slavica took
over. From 2009 the business has been run by their daughter Valentina.
From the very beginnings they were producing honey biscuits, other gingerbread products,
candles, lanterns and mead. Throughout all those seventy years they have been present at
all the parish feasts in the north-western Croatia and also in the neighbouring Slovenia.
Today the Gladović family have set up a Gingerbread House with an exhibitioncum-shop section where visitors can, guided by Valentina and Slavica, finish
and
decorate
the
semi-finished
gingerbread
products
to
their
own
liking.
The Gingerbread House is a place where all the products of the Gladović family which has
succeeded, despite these aggressive globalising times of ours in preserving their trade and
traditional method of production.
The Gladović
Gingerbread House
Lepoglava, a small town nestling at the foot of the mountain of Ivanščica, amidsts the
typical undulating landscape of Hrvatsko zagorje, not far from the orute of two major
European highways: Zagreb – Vienna and Zagreb – Budapest.
In the year 1399 King Sigismund gave the almost devasted old town of Lepoglava to one
of his nobleman whose efforts resulted in the foundation of a monastery of the Hermits of
St. Paul. The White Friars turned their home into a cradle of learning. They founded
the first secular secondary school, the first institution of higher learning with the right
to award academic titles, they promoted science, art, culture, they introduced the skill of
lace making to the people. The single-nave Gothic church of St. Mary (in the 17 th century
features of baroque style were added), with its four chappels and a wealth of wall paintings
done by eminent artists, I.K. Ranger being one of them, with beautiful altars adorned
by
numerous
paintings,
sculptures
it
painted
and
choir
seats, is an example of the value
they attributed to art.
The
monastery
almost
400
existed
years.
for
Following
the dissolution of the Pauline
order by the Emperor and King
Joseph II part of its wealth
was
by
taken
Budim.
by
Vienna,
The
part
monastery
itself was given of the Chapter
of Čazma which, not having the means to maintain it, signed a contract with the
State Treasury which needed a place for a state penitentiary. And that is what
happened: a monastery that used to be the kernel of science, art and education,
became a prison for men, in 1914 the prison was extended, in a 1918 it became the
notorious hellhole for political opponents – the role which continued until 1990.
The monastery was returned to the church in 2001.
Lepoglava
Lepoglava of today still has a good reason to bless the day the White Friars
came, for the art of bobbin-lace making has not only persisted but has
become a treasured tradition in the villages around the town. The patterns
produced have evolved into the folk motifs, animal and plant life, and other
ornaments. Its beauty is widely recognized, as is the value of this artistic
craft, hence the lessons, workshops and lace-making school. The additional
impetus came forom the International Lace Festival which has been held
in Lepoglava since 1997, whith its regular meetings of experst, and the
publications of works from the eminent lace centres in Croatia and Europe.
Lepoglava Lace
Ravna gora is the northernmost mountain massif of Hrvatsko zagorje, its highest peak
The side of Ravna gora facing Bednja and Trakošćan is almost Alpine-like, which is not
reaching 686 m. It is located in the upper basin of the River Bednja, and is regarded as the
surprising since the massif is regarded as the last spur of the Alps. The most attractive rocks
final spur of the Southern Alps which streches from east (Trakošćan) to west for 13 km,
on Ravna gora are Velike pećine (Great caves), locally known as the Švecove pećine (named
gradually getting lower. According to the latest research, the area of the Varaždin County is
after the hamlet of Šveci located right beneath the rocks), and they can be found in its
regarded as the place where the Alps and the Dinarides come together. It is also the only
north-westernmost reaches, rising over the village of Cvetlin. They are lined one after the
karstic mount in the north-west Croatia, replete with karstic features like ravines, gorges
other in six rows and rise to the height of about 100 m. The people living in the neighbourhood
and caves – the most attractive among them being the Velike pećine (Great Caves).
have always been drawn to Velike pećine, but at the same time in awe of them. Records exist
Another aspect which makes it stand apart is its sub-Alpine cave fauna, regarded as
which tell us that on 12 September 1834 the Sveciana cave caught fire and it burned for a
endemic, in contrast to the Dinaridic one that is found in the rest of Croatia. The mountain
fortnight belching fire across the mount. Large stones and flaming tree roots were flying
is mostly covered by deciduos forests (bay oak, hornbeam, sweet chestnut), while the higher
through the air, and the noise and hissing could be heard half an hour’s walk away. In order
ground is dominated by beech with some fir. In adition to its caves, this mountain also
to stop the caves coming awake in such a dramatic manner ever again, a cross was mounted
offers ample opportunities for other type of excursions which makes it a favourite among
on the site and consecrated on 29 October 1867, and the ceremony was accompanied by a
tourists and experienced mountaineers. The activities one can engage in include Alpine
great popular festivity.
climbing, paragliding (there are two sites for taking off and an organized landing site in
As for the event itself, to this day nobody knows what really happened, but the caves never
Cvetlin; national and Euroepan campionships are held, mountain biking, trekking, hunting,
did awake again…
mushrooms gathering. Accommodation can be found in two mountain lodges: Pusti duh
Ravna gora
& Great caves
(Lonely spirit) at the altitude of 672m, and Ravna gora at 660m. And if we still have not
managed to persuade some to climb to Ravna gora (hush, the top can be reached by car –
and from two sides, just don’t tell anybody!), then perhaps the photograph showing the view
from the top will do the trick.
The rural homestead Bubnjar-Laperski is located in Cvetlin, an evironment typical of
Zagorje, about 4,5 km from Trakošćan. The homestead offers home food and accommodation.
Its service is geared towards serving family lunches for the weekend visitors to Trakošćan,
and dishes on offer include meat from a pot, home-made cured meat products, sausages,
chopped fat, forester's goulash, home made Zagorje štrukli, a variety of home brewed
brandies and home made wine.
The homestead has 10 beds and dining room able to seat 30 people.
The rural homestead
Bubnjar-Laperski
In the immediate vicinity of Podsečki ethno-enviropnment is the small River
Bednja, and in one of its backwaters a colony of beavers found its home.
Beaver (Castor Fiber L.), a large herbivore (20-30 kg), and the largest rodent
(up to 100 cm) of the northern hemisphere, higly adapted to semi-aquatic life, with
streamlined body, webbed feet and a flat, scaly tail (up to 30 cm) to slap the surface as a loud
alarm signal. The glands at the base of the tail produce an oily, waterproofing secretion that
is spread throughout the fur when grooming. They live in closed, hierarchical family units
consisting of an adult pair (for up to 21 years) and the offspring of up to several previous
years; they have one litter each year. Using their incisor teeth, beavers cut down trees for
food and for building dams across streams to impouind water and create ponds. They build
conical lodges in the ponds with access to the living chambers through an underwater
tunnel. When underwater (15-20 min at the most) its ears and nose shut with a valve-like
flaps and the lips close behind the incisor teeth, which can then be used for nibbling and
gnawing. The eyes have a third, transparent eyelid which alows it to see below the surface.
Its long whiskers feel the way in the dark. In Croatia the indigenous species has been hunted
out some hundred years for its fur and fat, which was believed to have medicinal properties.
In 1997 it has been reintroduced to the Croatian waters, and with significant success.
So should you spot the trail, or hear a slap in the water, stay still and you my see
its Majesty, the Beaver.
Its Majesty
Dictionary tells us that water is a colourless, transparent, tasteless and odourless liquid
which forms the seas, lakes, rivers and rain. True, it is all of that. But when sitting on a
beach watching the vast calm surface, marvelling at the soft whisper of tiny ripples
reaching the shore and soaking in the salty intoxicating flavour, when standing on the
bank of a river listening to the roar of a mighty river tumbling along and cascading over
barriers into breath-catching waterfalls, when walking along a small stream enjoying its
gurgling, murmuring, splashing, silvery way to a river, a lake, a sea - we hear, see, feel not
a colourless, transparent, tasteless and odourless liquid but life itself in all its richness.
And yet, though knowing that without water there can be no life, so many in this world take
this treasure of all treasures for granted. Instead of regarding it almost with reverence,
demonstrating our appreciation by preserving every precious drop, we waste, pollute and
abuse it in every possible way. Bearing that in mind, we are proud to be able to say that in
this country there are still many streams and rivers from which one can safely take a drink
of fresh water. The area of Bednja, which abounds in water, is one such place.
Flows and flows, a waterfall flows.
What matters in it this tiny drop of mine?
But look, a rainbow to the water is born,
See how it sparkles and shimmers in myriad shades.
This dream to shine in these waters fine,
Its weave to twill it needs this tiny drop of mine.
Dobriša Cesarić
Treasure
called water
The ethnographic collection of the Mravlinčić family is located in Šinkovica Šaška, in the
immediate vicinity of Trakošćan, and contain items used in households in the first half
of the 20th century. The majority of exhibits belonged to the family itself, while the rest
they have been collecting since the beginning of 1970-ties to this day. The collection,
which comprises items of clothing, dishes, furniture, tools, machines and other items –
all together some 80 exhibits, is housed in an authentic setting of a family house built
at the end of the 20ties of the last century.
The Mravlinčić
Ethnographic Collection
Sitting proud upon its hill, like a phantasy, facing its reflection in the surface of its very
own, private lake, this is indeed a castle that takes us straight into a fairy tale. And
it this incredible setting that makes one reluctant to come back to reality and look into
the history of this site – which is itself quite something. The continuity of life here goes
back to 1334, and through the centuries it has changed quite a few hands. Finaly, it was
inherited by count Juraj VI Drašković who decided to build himself a summer residence
on the remains of the old Trakošćan fortification. The works lastred from 1840
to 1862, and the result was a stunning neo-gothical castle above a specialy
created lake and surrounded by the English type of a romantic park-wood.
Today, this is the best preserved castle in Croatia, which would not be the case
were it not for the efforts of one Vilim Leskošek. Many called him the good spirit
of Trakošćan, for it was his dedication which made sure that Trakošćan has not
suffered the fate of many castle, manor house and curias of Hrvatsko zagorje. Walking
through the halls furnished with Renaissance, baroque, roccoco and neo-classicistic
pieces, with stoves and mirrors, a visitor is able to reconstruct a whole world gone
by. Paintings of the Drašković family members, the collection of portraits done by
Mihael Stroj, an excellent painter of neoclassicism, the painting of Countess Julijana,
and many other works of art speak of the links of the local nobility with
Vienna and other centres of culture of the time. Swords, halberds, spears and
shields talk of an honourable defence of the identity of a people in troubled
times, but are also a symbol of the rebellious mood of the nearby villagers.
Forests, hills, vinyards, modest but welcoming houses, are scenes that warm the heart.
Yes, there is much to be seen in and around Trakošćan, the emphasis being of the word
“seen”, not read about. Because there is no word that can depict the charm of the place.
As they say, you have to see it to believe it.
Trakošćan
2
3
1
8
7
4
11
5
10
9
6
( 1 ) Tourist Board of the City of Varaždin, +385(0)42 210 987 ..........................................................
www.tourism-varazdin.hr info@tourism-varazdin.hr
City Museum of Varaždin, +385(0)42 658 773, www.gmv.hr gradski-muzej-vz@vz.t-com.hr
Association of tourist guides and comapnions of Varaždin, +385(0)99 444 3838,
vodici.varazdin@gmail.com
Hiawatha - rent-a-bike, Varaždin, +385(0)98 1345 042,
www.hiawatha.hr info@hiawatha.hr
( 2 ) Zelendvor, Petrijanec, +385(0)42 209 944, www.zelendvor.hr info@zelendvor.hr .......................
( 3 ) Moravec Family Homestead, Petrijanec, 042/716-041, www.opgmoravec.110mb.com ............
sirevi.moravec@gmail.com
( 4 ) Restaurant & Pansion Orion, Klenovnik, Horvatsko, +385(0)42 770 650 ..................................
ww.restoran-orion.hr fruk-i-pintaric@vz.t-com.hr
Page 4
Page 8
Page 8
Page 10
Candlemaking and gingerbread trade Gladović Slavica, Klenovnik ..................................
+385(0)42 763 418, slavica.gladovic@vz.t-com.hr
( 6 ) Lepoglava lacemaking trade – Štefanek +385(0)42 791 418, stefanek@inet.hr ...................
( 7 ) Ravna gora / Great Caves ..............................................................................................................
( 8 ) Rural homestead Bubnjar-Laperski ..........................................................................................
Jazbina Cvetlinska 133, Trakošćan, +385(42) 705 051
( 9 ) Podsečki ethno-enviropnment, Rinkovec 44a, +385(0)42 792 293 .......................................
( 10 ) Mravlinčić Ethnographic Collection, Šinkovica Šaška 34, Trakošćan ...................................
+385(0)91 8848 847, ivan@trakoscan.hr
( 11 ) Tourist Board of Trakošćan – Municipality of Bednja, +385(0)42 796 309 .....................
info.bednja.hr, info@bednja.hr
Trakošćan Castle +385(0)42 796 281, www.trakoscan.hr, dvor@trakoscan.hr
(5)
Page 12
Page 14
Page 18
Page 20
Page 22
Page 26
Page 28