Equipment List PDF - Alaska Mountaineering School

Equipment List: Advanced Mountaineering Courses
AMS Gear Room
We share with you the same desire to have the most suitable equipment for this course. Expeditions in the Alaska Range demand the
most from equipment manufacturers. It has to be warm, lightweight, easy to use, and durable in extreme cold. We need equipment to
protect us from the elements; it is our survival gear. AMS has invested a mountain of money in group camping and climbing
equipment and personal rental equipment in order to insure your expedition is properly outfitted. This list serves as a guideline for
what individuals typically use for the course activities. The exact gear you fly onto the glacier with depends on your final equipment
check in Talkeetna.
The morning of the first day of the course is spent with an instructor doing a final equipment check. Bring everything you are not sure about and we will help
you decide. With our ample supply we can dress you from head to toe with gear we know works. Extra gear you do not need on the expedition can be stored
at AMS in our storage lockers.
The AMS office is happy to help answer any equipment questions or concerns. Specific techy questions regarding a type of insulation or material is better
answered by an equipment industry professional such as the ‘gear-heads’ at Alaska Mountaineering & Hiking (AMH). Located in Anchorage, AMH is a great
source of advice, equipment needs, and gives AMS program participants a 10% discount (tel. 907-272-1811 or www.alaskamountaineering.com).
All wool items should be 75% wool. Wool/cotton blends are not considered insulation layers.
Please label your gear with your name or an identifying mark.
RNT $$$ N/A -
The item may be RENTED at AMS.
The item is for PURCHASE ONLY at AMS.
Item is NOT AVAILABLE at AMS: you must obtain before your arrival in Talkeetna
PART I: REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
Please bring what you have, but expect to rent everything else from AMS
FOOTWEAR
$$$
WOOL OR SYNTHETIC EXPEDITION WEIGHT SOCKS: 4 PAIRS: We recommend that you wear a combination of two thick socks while climbing. This
provides the maximum sweat absorption and reduces the chance of foot problems such as blisters or immersion foot. You may choose to substitute
one heavy sock with a thin liner sock if that is your preferred method. When you are layering your socks make sure they fit over each other and
inside your boots comfortably. AMS has Patagonia expedition weight socks for sale.
RNT
DOUBLE PLASTIC MOUNTAINEERING BOOTS: 1 PAIR: Good quality with removable liner boots. They should fit comfortably with the sock
combination and have plenty of wiggle room in the toe. Heel should not lift more than 1/2 inch when walking. Kick the toe of the boot against a
wooden post and your toes should not hit the end of the boot until the 3rd hit. Single layer boots are not recommended as they get wet and then
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A M S  Box 566, 3 rd St., Talkeetna, Alaska 99676  ph. 907–733–1016  fax 907-733-1362  info@climbalaska.org  www.climbalaska.org
you must put them in your sleeping bag while you sleep to dry them out. Make sure the boots are comfortable and buy large instead of small. AMS
rents Scarpa Invernos in men’s 4.5 -13.5, women’s 6 – 14.5.
RNT
GAITERS: 1 PAIR. These will keep snow out of your boots while you are climbing. They must fit over plastic boots comfortably without being too tight
around the leg. Cordura gaiters as they are more durable. Shell pants with internal gaiters work as long as they have a strap going under the boot.
AMS rents Outdoor Research Gore-tex gaiters.
RNT/$$$ INSULATED CAMP BOOTIES: 1 PAIR Synthetic filled expedition weight booties are preferable. These are great in combination with overboots to wear
around camp while you are on the course. Down expedition weight booties are also an option but moisture can build up which reduces the warmth
rating. AMS rents pile booties to be worn in conjunction with an ensolite foot bed inside your plastic boot shell. AMS also has synthetic Forty Below
booties for sale.
UPPER-BODY CLOTHING: You must have a combination of 4 upper-body insulation layers which fit comfortably over each other
and underneath your shell jacket.
$$$
LIGHT WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR TOP: 1 LAYER: Light weight polypropylene, capilene, or wool top. AMS sells Patagonia light-weight tops.
$$$
MEDIUM WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR TOP: 1 LAYER: Medium weight polypropylene, capilene, or wool top. This should fit comfortably over your
light weight top for layering options.
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SYNTHETIC OR WOOL (INSULATIVE) JACKET: 2 LAYERS: This will be your main insulating layer so these should fit over each other for layering
options. A vest can substitute for one of the jackets if you do not get cold easily. AMS rents Patagonia pile jackets.
RNT
RAIN/WIND SHELL JACKET: 1 LAYER Waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex, make sure it is roomy enough to fit over layers ( but underneath
your insulated parka). Must have a full front zipper (armpit zippers also highly recommended). AMS rents Patagonia H2No wind shells.
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INSULATED JACKET (AKA: BELAY PARKA): 1 LAYER. The insulating properties should be 4 to 5 oz. synthetic or 600 fill down with a hood that fits
over helmets. This should fit comfortably over ALL other layers including the shell jacket. AMS rents course parkas made by Posh House. This is
different than the Synthetic or wool jacket layer mentioned above. This layer is not the same as the INSULATED PARKA required for Denali climbs
which is a much warmer layer. Many people want to only buy equipment that they can also use when they attempt Denali, for example; this layer
can be used in conjunction with any sub-arctic layering system. If all you have is an insulated parka more suitable for Denali bring it along and it
will suffice.
LOWER-BODY CLOTHING: 2 lower-body insulation layers which fit comfortably over each other and underneath your shell pants
and overpants.
$$$
UNDERWEAR: 2-3 LAYERS: Wicking Capilene or silk underwear. AMS sells Patagonia brand.
$$$
LIGHT WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR PANTS: 1 LAYER One light weight pair in polypropylene, capilene, or wool. AMS sells Patagonia light weight
capilene.
$$$
MEDIUM WEIGHT LONG UNDERWEAR PANTS: 1 LAYER One mid weight pair in polypropylene, capilene, or wool. These should fit over light weight
underwear comfortably for layering options.
RNT
SHELL PANTS: 1 LAYER: Waterproof/breathable fabric such as Gore-Tex. Roomy enough to fit over layers and underneath your insulated overpants.
Side zippers (full length preferred) to fit over plastic boots. AMS rents Patagonia brand wind pants.
RNT
INSULATED OVERPANTS: 1 LAYER: Synthetic-filled shell overpants with full side zips. (Pile pants OK). These should fit comfortably over all other
layers including the shell pants. AMS rents Mountain Hardwear Chugach pant.
HEAD
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BASEBALL CAP OR SUN HAT: 1: Used to shield the sun from your face. AMS has a variety of AMS-logo baseball hats for sale.
WOOL OR FLEECE (SKI) HAT: 1: Warm ski hat (should cover ears). AMS sells Patagonia ski hats.
NECK GAITER: 1: Protects your neck, chin, and nose during windy conditions. AMS sells Posh House neck gaiters.
FLEECE HOOD (AKA: BALACLAVA): 1: Face, and additional neck protection which can be used during windy and snowy situations. This can be used
in addition to or in place of your neck gaiter. AMS rents pile balaclavas and sells Patagonia balaclavas.
HANDS
$$$
FLEECE GLOVES: 1 PAIR (2 pairs are recommended, but the 2 nd pair is not required). These will be for use during warmer temperatures, and during
periods when dexterity is necessary. These should fit comfortably inside your mittens. AMS sells Patagonia expedition weight capilene gloves.
$$$
INSULATED SKI GLOVES: 1 PAIR: Insulated, waterproof/breathable gloves which will provide warmth and dexterity in the cold with removable liners.
Lowe Alpine is recommended. AMS sells Outdoor Research Tour Gloves.
RNT/$$$ INSULATED OVERMITTS: 1 PAIR: These should fit comfortably over your fleece gloves. AMS rents Outdoor Research mittens which consist of a
Gore-tex shell accompanied by double thickness pile mitt liners.
SLEEPING EQUIPMENT
RNT
SLEEPING BAG:1: Rated to -15˚ or -20˚ F with approximately 5 pounds of fill for courses in March, April, May, late August, and September. Rated to
0˚F with approximately 3-5 pounds of synthetic fill for courses in June, July, and early August. Please follow the stated temperature requirements
above. If you have an older bag and the fill has compressed this will reduce the temperature rating of the bag so please take a good look at your bag
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A M S  Box 566, 3 rd St., Talkeetna, Alaska 99676  ph. 907–733–1016  fax 907-733-1362  info@climbalaska.org  www.climbalaska.org
before you travel to Talkeetna. The temperatures on the courses can vary tremendously and it is always better to be overly prepared than without
the correct equipment. AMS Rents Mountain Hardware and Marmot bags which are rated to 0˚.
RNT
SLEEPING BAG COMPRESSION SACK: 1: Effective at compressing your sleeping bag and reducing its size for packing. These are also useful when
packing clothes for the course. AMS rents Lowe Alpine.
RNT/$$$ FULL LENGTH SLEEPING PADS: 2: Combination of two closed-cell foam pads or a combination of one foam pad and one Thermarest pad (the
thermarest must have a repair kit incase of punctures). 2 pads are required for warmth.
RNT
HALF LENGTH PAD:1: Half length foam pad or Crazy Creek chair. This can be used in addition to your 2 full length pads for added comfort while
sleeping and as a chair in camp. This pad is not required and if you wish you can use one of your required full length closed cell pads as your chair in
camp.
RNT
SLEEPING PAD STUFF SACK: 1: You should be able to roll up both pads and insert them in stuff sacks. The sack protects the pads from snow and
punctures.
BACKPACK / STORAGE
RNT
INTERNAL FRAME PACK: 1: The main compartment should be approximately 5,000 cu. in. (80 – 90 Liters), and have places for sleeping pads, ice
axe and crampons to be lashed on the outside. AMS rents Lowe Alpine (our rental packs include the pack tether).
RNT
SMALL STUFF SACKS: 1-3: For organizing personal gear, food, and clothing.
RNT
LARGE STUFF SACKS: 1: Light weight, 16”x 24” for storing extra clothing in your tent.
$$$
GARBAGE BAGS: 3: Large trash bags for sleeping bag and clothing while you are traveling on the glacier to keep things dry (these will line your
backpack and possibly your duffel).
RNT
SLED DUFFEL: 1: A large, light weight duffel bag with full zipper, approximately 40” long and 16 “ in diameter. AMS rents Outdoor Products noncoated nylon mammoth sized duffels.
RNT
EXPEDITION DAY PACK: 1: This will be used for day climbs or trips. It should be approximately 3500 cu’ inches (50 - 60 Liters). This is not required
but if you have one then it is a good idea to bring it. Whether or not to use the day pack will be directly related to instructor preference.
TRAVEL
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SUN
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EQUIPMENT
RANDONEE SKIS: 1 PAIR: Downhill skis with alpine touring bindings. Must be releasable. AMS rents Atomic Tour Carves with Silveretta bindings.
CLIMBING SKINS: 1 PAIR: For use with skis.
SNOWSHOES: 1 PAIR: The size should reflect your body size. MSR models should have the extension tail piece. On the under side of the snowshoe
there should be metal teeth which prevents side slipping. AMS rents Atlas snowshoes.
SKI POLES: 1 PAIR: Wrist loops and snow baskets.
AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER: 1: Transmits and receives on 457 kHz.
AAA BATTERIES: 3: For use in avalanche transceiver (the AMS rental transceivers include batteries)
BANDANA: 1: Multiple uses: mainly to shield the sun from the back of your head and neck. AMS sells AMS Logo bandanas.
GLACIER GLASSES: 1: Should block 100% UV and should have a VLT (Visual Light Transmission) rating of 4 to 12%. If you wear prescription lenses,
bring your own prescription sunglasses or dark lens ski goggles to fit over your glasses. AMS sells a very basic model.
SUNGLASSES CASE: 1: Storage protection for the glacier glasses.
GOGGLES: 1: Good quality, double lensed 100% UV protection. Ski goggles provide warmth and visibility in blowing snow. AMS Sells very basic
(non-eye glass fitting) goggles.
LIP BALM: 1 TUBE: with sun protection rating.
SUNSCREEN: 1, 2 OZ TUBE OR EQUIVELANT: SPF 20 or greater. Zinc oxide is recommended for people with a history of sunburn.
TOILETRIES
$$$
ROLL OF TOILET PAPER: 1: Put in a zip lock bag.
$$$
HAND DISINFECTANT: 1: Travel size bottle of alcohol-based hand cleaner.
$$$
HANDI WIPES: Individual travel size so they can be easily thawed in your pocket.
$$$
SAMPLE SIZED TOOTH PASTE: 1
N/A
TOOTHBRUSH: 1
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
RNT/$$$ HELMET:1. AMS rents the Petzl Ecrin Roc. AMS sells the Petzl Meteor III Ultralight.
RNT
CRAMPONS: 1 PAIR: Fully adjustable 12-point crampons, must fit securely and not be prone to rolling or popping off when side-hilling. AMS rents
Grivel G12’s.
RNT
CRAMPON CASE: 1: Storage protection for crampons.
RNT
ICE AXE: 1: 55-70 cm. general mountaineering ice axe suitable for self-arrest and snow climbing. To size your ice axe, hold the head in the palm of
your hand and with your arm pointed down the tip of the axe should rest on your boot. AMS rents a variety.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A M S  Box 566, 3 rd St., Talkeetna, Alaska 99676  ph. 907–733–1016  fax 907-733-1362  info@climbalaska.org  www.climbalaska.org
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ICE HAMMER: 1: 50-60 cm. Second ice tool with a hammer instead of an adze. AMS rents Black Diamond Shrikes with Alaska pick.
SEAT HARNESS: 1: Drop leg loop style that fits comfortably over bulky clothing. AMS rents Black Diamond Alpine Bod.
ASCENDER W/SLING: Petzl, Jumar, CMI with a handle big enough for a mittened hand.
BELAY DEVICE: 1: ATC, belay plate, personal favorite, no Gri-Gri’s. AMS rents ATC’s
6 mm perlon, 50’ You can bring your own 50’continous piece, or buy it from us (15% discount) and we will have it pre-cut into the right lengths for
what you’ll need. This will be used for: Pack tether, prussiks, ascension system and cordlette.
CARABINERS: 9 oval or d shaped, regular gate or wire gate is fine
Locking Carabiners:3, 2 pear shaped and 1 “D”.
GEAR SLING: 6’ of 1” tubular webbing
CHEST HARNESS: 6’ of 1” tubular webbing
SLED HAUL: 6’ of 1” tubular webbing
EATING & DRINKING
N/A
TRAIL FOOD: 1 lb: Your favorite kind of munchies or energy bars to ensure you have exactly what you prefer on the course. AMS provides all other
course food.
$$$
CUP, BOWL, SPOON: 1 EACH: Non-breakable plastic 24 oz bowl, 24 oz insulated mug with lid, lexan spoon.
$$$
WATER BOTTLE: 2: Wide mouth one quart size (must be plastic). AMS Sells AMS logo nalgene H2O bottles
RNT
WATER BOTTLE INSULATORS: 2: Insulated covers for your water bottles. Courses in March, April, August and September
MISCELLANEOUS PERSONAL EQUIPMENT
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POCKET KNIFE: 1: for use when cooking or in the field for miscellaneous use.
N/A
WATCH: 1: Waterproof and with an alarm. Please bring a watch even if you are not in the habit of using one.
$$$
LIGHTER: 1: For lighting stoves.
$$$
NYLON CORD: 6 FEET: for miscellaneous use e.g. boot laces, repairs, etc.
$$$
EAR PLUGS: 1 PAIR: Aids in sleeping during windy situations.
N/A
HEAD LAMP: 1: Only for courses in March, April, August, and September to use around camp or for reading.
$$$
MANDATORY PRE-COURSE READING: 2 mountaineering books are required reading, prior and during our advanced and guides courses: “Glacier
Mountaineering” by Andy Tyson and Mike Clelland, and “Snow Sense; A Guide to Evaluating Snow Avalanche Hazard”, by J.Fredston and D. Fesler.
For additional reading options please see the appropriate reading list.
MEDICAL
AMS medical director and world famous altitude researcher Dr. Peter Hackett and training supervisor and chief life flight nurse Lance Taysom, RN wrote
AMS’ medical protocols which give standing orders for AMS’ medical kit contents. The expedition drug kit includes: Keflex, Vicodin, Decadron, Procardia,
Diamox, Diflucan, Tylenol, Colace, Benadryl, Imodium, Ibuprofen, Aspirin, Pepto-Bismol, cough suppressant, and an Epinephrine injection pen. We request
that you supplement the expedition drug kit by bringing a personal supply of:
N/A
Ibuprofen/Motrin, Advil - 20 tablets
N/A
Acetaminophen/Tylenol – 20 tablets
N/A
Athletic Tape, small pair of scissors, 6 Band-aids
$$$
Moleskin or blister kit such as: Compede or Blisto-span.
PART II: OPTIONAL ITEMS
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These items are not mandatory, but some graduates and instructors suggested we include them on the list.
SIDE POCKETS: 2: For packs less than 5,000 cu. In.
LASH STRAPS: 2: Optional: for strapping gear to the outside of your pack.
OVERBOOTS: 1 PAIR: These are used to cover your plastic mountaineering boots and to increase warmth. They are also used in camp in
combination with your insulated booties. Overboots are NOT REQUIRED for courses but are very useful. AMS rents Climb High’s Red Hot Overboot.
WHISTLE:1
NEOPRENE GLOVES: 1 pair. Often found in stores which sell fishing equipment, neoprene provides warmth and dexterity in wet conditions.
BINOCULARS: 1. Compact model.
CAMERA AND FILM. AMS sells disposable cameras
NOSE GUARD: 1. Recommended to use with your glacier glasses to reduce sunburn.
VAPOR BARRIER LINER SOCKS: 1 pair. Helps to keep boot liners dry for those with sweaty feet. Turkey Oven bags make a great VBL. Another option
is to use plastic bread sacks.
PEE BOTTLE: 1. Quart sized Nalgene bottle.
PEE FUNNEL: 1. Some women prefer using a Freshette or Lady J. Best to practice before the course. There is also the option to make your own using
a oil funnel specifically used for vehicle use. This is a cheaper alternative.
COFFEE BAGS. Field rations include a variety of hot and cold drinks, but not coffee.
THERMOS. 1. 500 ml thermos is nice to have for storing hot water.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A M S  Box 566, 3 rd St., Talkeetna, Alaska 99676  ph. 907–733–1016  fax 907-733-1362  info@climbalaska.org  www.climbalaska.org
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BOOK: 1. Miscellaneous reading materials.
TOILET ARTICLES: various personal articles
CREAM CONTAINER: for sunscreen or lotion
HAND WARMERS
TOE WARMERS
NOTEBOOK: for note taking etc.
PENCIL
FOOT POWDER
ROCK CLIMBING SHOES: 1 PAIR: This is not mandatory but if you have a pair then you should bring them. There is always the chance given
conditions, location, weather permitting, and instructor preference.
PART III: GROUP EQUIPMENT – AMS PROVIDES
AMS provides a good quantity of group expedition equipment which is checked and inventoried beforehand: climbing ropes, snow pickets, flukes, ice screws,
pulleys, 4-season tents, kitchen megamids, winterized stoves, pots and pans, utensils, snow saws, shovels, spades, sleds, wands, first aid and drug kit, repair
kits, VHF radios, cell phone-for emergency use. We all share the use of and care for the group equipment.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
A M S  Box 566, 3 rd St., Talkeetna, Alaska 99676  ph. 907–733–1016  fax 907-733-1362  info@climbalaska.org  www.climbalaska.org