the broads
Transcription
the broads
the broads This is the first guide to the Broads for green travellers, and we hope it inspires you to discover the many adventures that can be had in this atmospheric wilderness of rivers and lakes. water, water everywhere 2 what is a broad? 4 messing about in boats 6 But it’s not just about the landscape: the appeal of the Broads – the unsung jewel of the UK’s National Parks – is also in the multitude of independent sustainable businesses that are based here: everything from great pubs to boat hire outfits to fabulous campsites…. boat trips 14 on dry land 16 walking the broads 18 Support them, and know that by doing so you are supporting the Broads! summer diary 32 love the broads 34 broads tourism 36 how do I get to the broads? 38 further information 40 Britain’s magical waterland Reeds boat hire water-borne adventures 8 10 canoeing12 nature20 a perfect day? 22 sleep24 eat and drink 26 at the beach 28 kids30 water, water everywhere A wilderness of lake and river, reedbed and marsh, huge skies and distant horizons, cut only by windmills and the gaff-rigged sails of far-off yachts. The Broads is only just over two hours from London yet feels a million miles away, especially if you’re on a boat. Give yourself up to its tranquil emptiness and discover a world you never knew existed. 3 Boathouses, Hickling Broad 4 5 the rivers BURE the longest and busiest of the Broadland rivers, navigable from Coltishall all the way to Great Yarmouth, where it flows into the sea. THURNE meets the Bure at Thurne Mouth, from where you can follow its flat, big-skied what is a broad? The Broads looks like a natural landscape but most of it is man-made. The broads themselves are not natural lakes but in fact peat diggings that flooded during the Middle Ages; for centuries the land around them has been cultivated – from the reed and sedge that has been harvested to make thatch trail all the way to the glorious expanse of to the arable crops that thrive in the fertile fields beyond. Each broad has a character of its own, from the reedy wilderness of Hickling Broad to pretty and diminutive Salhouse and the more urban environs of Oulton Broad, right in the heart of Lowestoft. Hickling Broad – a classic Broads journey. ANT a tributary of the Bure, the narrow Ant twists its way up to Barton Broad, and is one of the most beautiful Broads journeys by boat. YARE the fast-flowing Yare is the widest of the Broadland rivers, flowing past Brundall and Reedham and discharging into the wild emptiness of Breydon Water. CHET this tributary of the Yare takes you through woodland and meadow to the small Broadland town of Loddon. WAVENEY often overlooked, the Waveney forms the southern boundary of the Broads and is one of the region’s most picturesque rivers, flowing past the handsome town of Beccles and emptying into Oulton Broad. Reeds and big Norfolk skies messing about in boats The best way to appreciate the fragile beauty of the Broads is to get out on the water. Motor cruisers are the most popular option, but you can also rent a sailing boat or a canoe, or take any number of guided boat trips. The best-known stretches can be busy in peak season, but the Full sail on the river Bure 7 Broads has an amazing ability to absorb visitors, and you can be somewhere that feels like the middle of nowhere in no time, with only the creak of your sheets or chug of your engine for company. Malthouse Broad 8 9 hiring a boat Your experience of the Broads will depend on where you choose to pick up your boat. The Northern Broads is the most popular – and busiest – region, but is home to the best facilities and the widest array of attractions. The main centres for boat hire are Wroxham, the so-called ‘capital of the Broads’; picturesque Horning, a couple of hours downstream; Potter Heigham, where you’re poised to explore the vast expanse of the largest broad at Hickling; Stalham, site of the Museum of the Broads; and Ludham, home to the Hunter’s fleet of traditional Broads sailing yachts. In the Southern Broads the Dayboat on the Bure principal boat-hire centres are Brundall, on the Yare, not far from Norwich; Reedham, where the chain car ferry still makes this one of the few points where you can cross the river; and sleepy Loddon on the river Chet. green boating The Broads are greener than ever these days. You can help keep the rivers and broads pristine and wildlife friendly by strictly observing the speed limits, using biodegradable washing products and taking care not to spill fuel – and, of course, opting to hire the newest and most environmentally sound craft, the best of which have low-wash hulls and adhere Hickling Broad to the guidelines of the Green Boat Mark. Upton Dyke 11 water-borne adventures HUNTER’S YARD Horsefen Rd, Ludham NR29 5QG 01692 678263 www.huntersyard.co.uk Admirable purists who run a fleet of traditional Broads yachts and dinghies. NANCY OLDFIELD TRUST Irstead Rd, Neatishead NR12 8BJ 01692 630572 www.nancyoldfield.org.uk ‘Making adventure possible’ is their motto, which is exactly what they do, taking disabled people out on cruisers, yachts and canoes. NORFOLK BROADS DIRECT The Bridge, Wroxham NR12 8RX 01603 782207 www.norfolkbroadsdirect.co.uk One of the pioneers of sustainable Broads tourism yet one of the biggest Filby Broad boatyards, with a large fleet for hire by the day or longer. NORFOLK WHERRY TRUST Horsefen Rd, Ludham NR29 5QG www.wherryalbion.com This wonderful old wherry – the Albion – is available for charter in summer. RICHARDSONS The Staithe, Stalham NR12 9BX 01692 668981 www.richardsonsboatingholidays.co.uk Among the oldest boatyards, and consciously aiming to improve the environmental friendliness of its craft. WHERRY YACHT CHARTER CHARITABLE TRUST Hartwell Road, Wroxham, Norwich NR12 8TL www.wherryyachtcharter.org A collection of lovingly restored wherries available for public sailings, private charters and educational visits. Stalham Staithe Traditional Broads yachts 12 paddling Paddle a canoe through some of the smaller waterways that aren’t so easily navigable by larger craft – silent, reedy adventures which are safe yet mysterious and fun for all the family. Find more information at www.canoethebroads.co.uk 13 BANK BOATS Staithe Cottage, Wayford Bridge NR12 9LN 01692 582457 www.bankboats.co.uk BARNES BRINKCRAFT Riverside Rd, Wroxham NR12 8UD 01603 782625 www.barnesbrinkcraft.co.uk MARTHAM BOATS Cess Rd, Martham NR29 4RF 01493 740249 www.marthamboats.com OUTNEY MEADOW CAMPSITE Bungay NR35 1HG 01986 892338 www.outneymeadow.co.uk PHOENIX FLEET Repps Staithe, Potter Heigham NR29 5JD 01692 670460 www.phoenixfleet.com ROWAN CRAFT Big Row, Geldeston NR34 0LY 01508 518208 www.rowancraft.com Rowing on the Bure at Coltishall SALHOUSE BROAD Lower St, Salhouse NR13 6RX 01603 722775 www.salhousebroad.org.uk SUTTON STAITHE BOATYARD Sutton NR12 9QS 01692 581653 www.suttonstaitheboatyard.co.uk THE CANOEMAN 10 Norwich Rd, Wroxham NR12 8RX 0845 496 9177 www.thecanoeman.com WAVENEY RIVER CENTRE Staithe Rd, Burgh St Peter, Beccles NR34 0BT 01502 677343 www.waveneyrivercentre.co.uk WHISPERING REEDS Staithe Rd, Hickling NR12 0YW www.whisperingreeds.net WHITLINGHAM OUTDOOR EDUCATION CENTRE Whitlingham Inching through the reeds Lane, Trowse NR14 8TR 01603 632307 www.whitlinghamoec.co.uk Waterlilies on Lily Broad 15 take a trip ELECTRIC EEL Toad Hole Cottage, How Hill, Ludham NR29 5PG 01603 756096 LIANA Hoveton Broads Information Centre, Station Rd, Hoveton NR12 8UR 01603 756097 RA Whitlingham Visitor Centre, Whitlingham Lane, Trowse, Norwich NR14 8TR 01603 756094 BROADS TOURS The Bridge, Wroxham NR12 8RX 01603 782207 www.broadstours.co.uk CITY BOATS Griffin Lane, Thorpe St Andrew, Norwich NR7 0SL 01603 701701 www.cityboats.co.uk GENTLEMAN JIM The Waterside, Rollesby Broad NR29 5EF 01493 740531 www.thewatersiderollesby.co.uk boat trips There’s an easy way to get out on the water if you’re pushed for time, and that’s to take one of the small boat trips that run from various spots across the Broads – gentle journeys that take you to special places to spot wildlife or just soak up the landscape, often on almost silent, eco-friendly electricpowered launches that are a delight in themselves. ROSS’S RIVER TRIPS Horsey NR29 4EF 01692 598135 www.rossrivertrips.co.uk SOUTHERN COMFORT Lower St, Horning NR12 8AA 01692 630262 www.southern-comfort.co.uk A boat trip on Liana The eco-friendly Electric Eel 16 17 bike hire outlets BROADLAND CYCLE HIRE Bewilderwood NR12 8JW 07887 480331 www.norfolkbroadscycling.co.uk CLIPPESBY HALL Clippesby NR29 3BL 01493 367800 www.clippesby.com OUTNEY MEADOW CAMPSITE Bungay NR35 1HG 01986 892338 www.outneymeadow.co.uk SEA PALLING CYCLE HIRE Waxham Barn, Waxham Rd, Sea Palling NR12 0EE Cycling is fun for kids – and grown-ups 01692 598592 www.seapallingcyclehire.com RIVERSIDE TEAROOMS The Green, Stokesby NR29 3EX 01493 750470 SALHOUSE BROAD Lower St, Salhouse NR13 6RX 01603 722775 www.salhousebroad.org.uk on dry land THE CANOEMAN 10 Norwich Rd, Wroxham NR12 8RX 0845 496 9177 www.thecanoeman.com There aren’t many places better for cycling than the Broads. Bike rental points are dotted all over the region, and the big skies and gloriously flat landscape are cycling heaven. WAVENEY RIVER CENTRE Staithe Rd, Burgh St Peter, Beccles NR34 0BT 01502 677343 www.waveneyrivercentre.co.uk MORE INFORMATION at www.thebroadsbybike.org.uk Cycling to Sea Palling Barton Broad Boardwalk 19 six walks ANGLES WAY A lovely route that skirts Breydon Water and heads down to Oulton Broad and then up the Waveney Valley. BURE VALLEY PATH Footpath that follows the Bure Valley Railway from Hoveton to Aylsham. BURLINGHAM WALKS Delightful woodland walks between South Walsham and Acle. LUDHAM TO HOW HILL One of the nicest walks in the Broads, following the river to How Hill and back to Ludham village, with maybe a detour to St Benet’s Abbey. WEAVER’S WAY The 56-mile-long Weaver’s Way joins the Wherryman’s Way at Great Yarmouth and meanders up through the old wool centres of walking the broads Worstead and North Walsham to Cromer, where it links with the North Norfolk Coastal Path. WHERRYMAN’S WAY This 35-mile route is the main The Broads is a fantastic place to explore on foot. There are boardwalked paths through the nature reserves and along the edges of the most scenic broads and rivers, and the following long-distance footpaths pass through the region, following wonderfully scenic routes along the water and beyond. long-distance footpath of the Broads, and follows the Yare river all the way from Norwich to the sea at Great Yarmouth www.wherrymansway.net MORE INFORMATION at www.countrysideaccess.norfolk.gov.uk Dogs taking their owners for walk 21 nature The Broads is the largest wetland area in the UK and one of the most important in Europe, and it’s a haven for birds and all kinds of wildlife – indeed, there are more rare species in the Broads than anywhere else in Britain. You can see grebes, herons, kingfishers, ten natural places BARTON BROAD Wheelchair-friendly boardwalked paths and if you’re lucky catch a glimpse of the notoriously shy bittern. You might also see the rare swallowtail butterfly, which is found nowhere else in the UK, and these days it’s not unusual to spot an otter poking its whiskered snout out of the water. through the woodland take you to a lookout where you can spot grebes and herons. FAIRHAVEN WATER GARDEN Unique garden that offers an accessible taster of the local landscape, and boat trips. HICKLING BROAD The wildest Broad, with bird hides, a visitor centre and regular boat trips. HORSEY Cranes overhead at Horsey Mere, and seals on the nearby beach, especially in winter when the pups are born. Ranworth Broad Boardwalk HOVETON GREAT BROAD Part of the Bure Marshes Nature Reserve, and a good place to see swallowtail butterflies. HOW HILL Nature trails and magical trips through reeds and narrow dykes on the Electric Eel. RANWORTH BROAD Boardwalks through the reeds and woodland, boat trips and a conservation centre. STRUMPSHAW FEN Family-friendly RSPB reserve with woodland, reed and meadow habitats for birds of all kinds. UPTON BROAD AND MARSHES Peaceful haven for swallowtail butterflies, hawker dragonflies, water voles and otters. WHEATFEN NATURE RESERVE Once the home of naturalist Ted Ellis, who called this stretch of reeds and dykes ‘a breathing space for the cure of souls’. Kingfisher Swallowtail butterfly 23 a perfect day? Moored up at a remote staithe, we start the day with eggs and bacon, sizzling hot from the pan and eaten on the roof of our cruiser as we see the herons fishing for food across the broad. The sun is up and already Dog tired but happy it’s hot, and we plot our route with carefree abandon. A pub for lunch? Or a riverside picnic spot? We can’t decide but set off anyway, planning to work it out as we go. We travel where our fancy takes us, and drop the anchor in the middle of a dead-flat broad to enjoy our sandwiches, while otters stick their noses above the waterline and marsh harriers call from the swampy woodland beyond the reedbeds. The afternoon passes dreamily, as we drift slowly towards our chosen destination: a mooring for the night and a hearty meal in a cosy waterside pub. Dog tired but happy. Pure bliss. 25 six sustainable stays sleep The classic way to enjoy the Broads is to sleep on a boat, gently rocked to sleep by the water. But there are lots of dry land options BEECHWOOD HOTEL Cromer Rd, North Walsham NR28 0HD too, from stylish boutique hotels to cosy B&Bs and fabulous self-catering properties in stunning locations. 01692 403231 www.beechwood-hotel.co.uk On the edge of the Broads, but this boutique hotel offers comfy rooms, a warm welcome and great, locally sourced food. CLIPPESBY HALL Clippesby NR29 3BL 01493 367800 www.clippesby.com Gorgeous campsite in a lovely location, with shady pitches, bike hire and self-catering lodges in the trees. The ultimate Broads camping experience. DAIRY BARNS Hickling NR12 0BE 01692 598243 www.dairybarns.co.uk You couldn’t find a more welcoming B&B, Clippesby Hall and you get to stay on a proper farm. Self-catering cottages, too. EAST VIEW FARM COTTAGES Stone Lane, Ashmanhaugh NR12 8YW 01603 782225 www.eastviewfarm.co.uk Lovely selfcatering cottages partially powered by their own wind turbine. THE MOORHEN 45 Lower St, Horning NR12 8AA 01692 631444 www.themoorhenhorning.co.uk There are few better bases for the Broads than Horning, and this B&B is in the heart of the village, with four lovely rooms and a family bunkhouse. WAVENEY RIVER CENTRE Staithe Rd, Burgh St Peter NR34 0BT 01502 677343 www.waveneyrivercentre.co.uk As green as it gets, with camping, holiday lodges, biking and canoeing in a glorious spot that feels like the middle of nowhere. Waveney River Centre Rooms at The Moorhen 27 eat and drink six sustainable eats One of the joys of boating on the Broads is choosing where you’re going to moor up and eat that night. There have always been lots of picturesque riverside spots to enjoy a pint of local ale and watch the world go by on the water, but food standards have risen with the Broads Quality Charter and these days you can enjoy fantastic food using locally sourced Norfolk produce in any number of pubs and restaurants across the region. Could this be the ‘greenest’ pub in Britain – on the edge of BERNEY ARMS Great Yarmouth NR30 1SB 01493 700303 the Berney Marshes RSPB reserve but only accessible by boat, train or on foot? BURE RIVER COTTAGE 27 Lower St, Horning NR12 8AA 01692 631421 www.burerivercottagerestaurant.co.uk Fantastic fish and seafood restaurant using locally sourced ingredients. FARM TO FORK & FISH Norwich Rd, Horstead NR12 7EE 01603 266129 www.farmtoforkandfish.co.uk This farm shop and deli The Duke’s Head, Somerleyton serves prime cuts of meat from its own farm, locally caught fish and seafood, and all manner of seasonal produce. THE HERMITAGE 64 Old Road, Acle NR13 3QP 01493 750310 www.thehermitageltd.co.uk Long-running purveyor of some of the freshest fish and seafood in the Broads, beautifully cooked. THE LAVENDER HOUSE 9 The Street, Brundall NR13 5AA 01603 712215 www.thelavenderhouse.co.uk This restaurant and cookery school celebrates the best of Norfolk’s local produce. WROXHAM BARNS Tunstead Rd, Hoveton NR12 8QU 01603 783762 www.wroxhambarns.co.uk Wroxham Barns has spearheaded sustainable tourism in the area, which is nowhere more evident than in its superb café-restaurant, whose daily specials are always good and usually locally sourced. Pulling a pint of Wherry at The Pleasure Boat Inn, Hickling Farm to Fork & Fish 28 at the beach Most people don’t realise that the Broads national park stretches all the way to the coast, to the glorious nearby beaches of Winterton, Horsey and Waxham. 29 beaches HORSEY Horsey village has the famous Horsey Windpump and Horsey Mere but that’s not all: there’s a lovely tucked-away medieval church and a brilliant pub, too, beyond which you can follow the path all the way to the dunes and beautiful sandy beach. WAXHAM There’s not much to the village of Waxham beyond the impressive thatch of Waxham Barn, a vast sixteenth-century construction which is open to the public and Dunes, Horsey which is also home to a café and handily located bike hire facilities. But follow the path through the dunes and the beach awaits – a glorious sandy expanse. WINTERTON-ON-SEA The village here is lovely, and has a good pub to boot, but the beach and dunes are awesome, a vast, dog-friendly stretch that extends for miles in either direction. You can swim with the seals, have lunch in the excellent beach café or just hide out in the dunes. Plus, it’s one of the few breeding grounds of little terns in the country. Winterton-on-Sea Waxham Beach Seal pup, Horsey 30 Bewilderwood 31 Where’s the ginger beer? activities for kids kids Immortalised in the writings of Arthur Ransome, the landscape of the Broads couldn’t be more perfect for children – a mysterious, watery world that’s perfect for kids to have unforgettable adventures and where grown-ups can re-live their own childhood holidays. Not only that, but there are a few places that cater exclusively for children, some of them with a consciously sustainable approach. BEWILDERWOOD Horning Rd, Hoveton NR12 8JW 01692 PETTITTS Church Rd, Reedham NR13 3UA 01493 700094 633033 www.bewilderwood.co.uk A sort of eco-friendly www.pettittsadventurepark.co.uk Lots of fun rides and exotic adventure park, where your brood can join the boggles and animals at this long-established southern Broads family twiggles that live in the wet woodland – on slides, zipwires, attraction. Great fun. rope bridges and boat-trips, to name just the highlights. WROXHAM BARNS Tunstead Rd, Hoveton NR12 8QU 01603 BURE VALLEY RAILWAY Aylsham Station, Norwich Rd, Aylsham 783762 www.wroxhambarns.co.uk Not just for grown- NR11 6BW 01263 733858 www.bvrw.co.uk Norfolk’s longest ups, Wroxham Barns also has a funfair, junior farm and a small-gauge railway follows the Bure from Aylsham to minigolf course that regularly hosts the British crazy golf Wroxham – a route you can also do on foot or by bike. championships! 33 summer diary events There’s always something going on in the Broads, and if you time your visit right you can witness some incredible spectacles, both on and off the water – yachting regattas, boat shows, and any number of other, usually family-friendly events. holiday weekend – a great opportunity to see traditional Broads BARTON REGATTA Two-day event held over the August bank yachts in all their glory. BROADS OUTDOORS FESTIVAL May sees the start of the twoweek-long Broads Outdoors Festival – an annual collection of events that celebrates the best of the Broads, and in particular its wildlife and landscapes, with guided wildlife walks, canoe trails and windmill tours. GREEN BOAT SHOW Salhouse Broad’s annual showcase of green Canoeists on the Trinity Broads and environmentally friendly craft and activities, held in May. HORNING BOAT SHOW The first Horning Boat Show in May 2013 was a resounding success. HORNING WEEK Horning Sailing Club’s annual regatta lasts all week, and the event grips the village at the beginning of August. THREE RIVERS RACE This legendary yacht race is for many the biggest sailing event on the Broads, held over the first weekend of June and following a demanding course that takes in the Bure, Thurne and Ant. OTHER SAILING REGATTAS include Wroxham Week, held over a week in early July, Oulton Week, at the end of August, and the Yare Navigation, which runs from Brundall to Breydon Water every September. The Three Rivers Race Horning Boat Show 34 35 love the broads The Broads is a unique environment, shaped over thousands of years by people working hand in hand with nature. The Love The Broads project helps to keep it that way by providing a way for you to make a small contribution towards protecting this timeless, tranquil place. Donations are administered by the Broads Trust, and each year your money goes towards a host of projects that help to improve visitor access but at the same time conserve this precious and diverse landscape for generations to come. Find out more at www.broadscharitabletrust.org.uk Breydon Water in winter broads tourism green tourism business scheme In this book we have highlighted just a few of the wonderful businesses This is a national grading scheme in the Broads, but of course there which sends qualified assessors to are many more – the best of them grade businesses against a rigorous are part of Broads Tourism, whose set of criteria designed to assess members sign a pledge to attain the their credentials for sustainability. highest standards and offer the finest They look at every aspect of a customer experience. Conservation business, covering such areas as organisations and other key groups energy and water efficiency, waste are also members, and Broads management, biodiversity, use of Tourism works closely with the Broads local suppliers and more, and they Authority to ensure that Britain’s offer bronze, silver and gold awards magical waterland remains in tip-top to those who qualify. Operated by environmental condition. For example, a not-for-profit organisation, Green Broads Tourism helped to establish Business, there are over 2,300 the Green Boat Mark, by which members throughout the UK and boat hire fleets can measure their Ireland, and this includes over 30 environmental credentials with regard businesses in the Broads. to engine performance, water quality, boat design and other issues. Find out more about Broads Tourism at www.enjoythebroads.com/broads-tourism Halvergate Marshes Locally grown produce 37 how do I get to the broads? leave the car at home Is there a greener place to travel around in For somewhere that feels so remote, the Broads is surprisingly easy to get to by public transport, in particular on the train, with two charmingly named branch rail lines running through the area – the Bittern Line, which runs from Norwich to Cromer and has stations at Salhouse, Hoveton & Wroxham and North Walsham, and the Wherry Line from Norwich to Great Yarmouth, stopping at Brundall, Acle and Reedham, among other places. the country than the Broads? We don’t think so, because it’s a fact that you can’t see the best of the Broads by car. Ideally, you have to be on the water, and when you’re not on a boat you should be walking or riding a bike – it’s relentlessly flat, the distances are manageable, and there are lots of routes to deliver you to the most scenic spots. It’s also easy – and a joy – to combine walking and cycling with a spot of boating. So leave your car at home, jump on a train, and explore the region – it’s the only way to unlock the true secrets of the Broads. train operators The following websites will give you all the detail you need to access the Broads by train, and have details on bus routes, too. www.greateranglia.co.uk www.bitternline.com www.wherrylines.org.uk A sign at Acle station 40 Forget-me-nots at Strumpshaw Fen further information Broads Authority Information Centres HOVETON INFORMATION CENTRE NR12 8UR 01603 756097 hovetontic@broads-authority.gov.uk TOAD HOLE COTTAGE How Hill, Ludham NR29 5PG 01603 756096 toadholetic@broads-authority.gov.uk WHITTLINGHAM VISITOR CENTRE Trowse, Norwich NR14 8TR 01603 756094 whitlinghamtic@broads-authority.gov.uk MORE INFORMATION at www.enjoythebroads.com © Broads Tourism. The contents of this publication are believed correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless the publisher can accept no responsibility for errors or omissions, changes in the detail given or for any expense or loss thereby caused. Duckling at Strumpshaw Fen
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