Must-try Washington Rosés

SMART. SAVVY. ESSENTIAL.
Must-Try Washington Rosé Wines
By: Paul Zitarelli | May 2013 | FROM THE PRINT EDITION
Rosé has been undergoing a metamorphosis in Washington, from afterthought to intention. The old way of thinking
went something like this: “Hey, we’re bleeding a bunch of juice out of these fermenters to make our big red wines.
Instead of sending that juice down the drain, why don’t we ferment it, bottle it and sell it? Instant cash flow!” The
results: sometimes sugary, often boozy, always forgettable. No more.
Today’s rosé is a more grown-up,
deliberate drink, and consumers
are taking notice. As a result,
securing the best versions requires
a bit of advance planning. Several
of the finest pinks are mayflies,
blinking out of existence almost
immediately after entering the
world, selling out well before
Labor Day. Part of the poignancy of
rosés is their ephemeral nature.
They’re here, they’re lovely, and
then—all too quickly—they’re gone.
Most are just being released, so
right now, today, is the perfect
The glorious evolution of Washington rosé is in full bloom
time to stock up on our state’s
PHOTO CREDIT: Andrea Coan
most delicious rosés. With rainy
days still with us, it can be hard to make the leap of the imagination to stock up early. Take a moment to imagine a
sky uncluttered by clouds, the full sun warming your flip-flop-shod feet, sweet smoke wafting off the barbecue and
the chill refreshment of a pale pink wine.
Here are a few tricks for cutting through the rosé-colored clutter: First, the best versions come from grapes specifically harvested for rosé (as opposed to the saignée method described above). Typically, they’re picked a few weeks
earlier than the red-grape harvest, which keeps the acids high and the grape sugars low. Low grape sugars equate to
low alcohol, so you can usually find these bottles by eyeballing the alcohol percentage on the label and grabbing
bottles at 13.5 percent or lower. Second, thinner-skinned varieties generally work best. Versions made from
thicker-skinned grapes (Syrah or—gulp—Cabernet Sauvignon) tend to make richer, flabbier, fuller-bodied wines that
simply don’t suit a midsummer day. Look instead for Grenache-, Cinsault- or Cabernet Franc–based rosés. And finally,
don’t worry about overstocking. If a few bottles happen to survive the summer, rosé is a perfect drink down the road
(even versatile and vibrant enough for the Thanksgiving table) and, of course, it’s good with breakfast all year long.
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705 Berney Drive Walla Walla, Washington 99362
phone: 509.526.3500 fax: 253.299.5854 tranchecellars.com
SMART. SAVVY. ESSENTIAL.
Paul’s Rosé Picks
Tranche 2012 “Pink Pape” Rosé, $16
Quickly becoming one of the hardest-to-source Washington rosés, this is a ringer for some of the finest pink drinks
coming out of the southern Rhône Valley. It’s a blend of Cinsault, Counoise and Grenache, all from Blackrock Estate
Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Pink melon, pineapple and stony minerals combine on a spritzy, acid-driven frame. Its
vibrancy is its charm. PAIRS WITH: Shioyaki-style (salt-grilled) salmon.
Syncline 2012 Rosé, $18
Syncline, the flagship winery in the Columbia Gorge AVA, was among the early Washington wineries endeavoring to
produce a serious rosé, and is now a standard-bearer for the state. Its release each April augurs the summer to come.
The 2012 release, a blend of 49 percent Mourvèdre, 39 percent Cinsault and 12 percent Grenache, presents a summery
core of strawberry and watermelon. While the acid is abundant, this also has an attractive creaminess, as well as
subtleties of straw and spice to ratchet up the complexity. PAIRS WITH: Chicken roasted with salt, pepper and butter.
Maison Bleue 2012 “La Famille” Rosé, $20
A spicy, grapey, garigue-dusted nose introduces this Mourvèdre-dominant homage to Bandol from Jon Meuret of
rising-star Yakima Valley producer Maison Bleue. While there is some richness to the texture here, it is unmistakably
grown-up rosé, glorying in its zingy acidity and mineral austerity. PAIRS WITH: Dry-rubbed, grilled pork ribs.
Trust Cellars 2012 Rosé, $18
Steve Brooks of Walla Walla’s Trust Cellars has been making this 100 percent Cabernet Franc rosé for years. Franc is a
great choice for rosé, as it always seems to add savory complexity, here in the form of a light straw/hay note overlaying the core of fruit. That fruit is a lovely, brisk mix of kiwi, pineapple and apricot. There is fine intensity and
surprising nuance here. PAIRS WITH: Grilled flatbread with eggplant, zucchini and tomato.
Renegade 2012 Rosé, $10
A side label from Trey Busch of Sleight of Hand
Cellars, the Renegade blend includes Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Syrah. Summery aromatics
combine watermelon flesh and watermelon
rind. The palate is a fruit salad, with notes of
honeydew, watermelon and banana. There is a
eucalyptus top note that keeps things fresh,
plenty of energy and briskness in its drinking.
Add one hot deck and one cold fridge for a
small summer ecstasy. PAIRS WITH: Fresh
caprese salad.
705 Berney Drive Walla Walla, Washington 99362
phone: 509.526.3500 fax: 253.299.5854 tranchecellars.com