Chef-Owner: ROSALIE CARTWRIGHT
Transcription
Chef-Owner: ROSALIE CARTWRIGHT
Chef-Owner: ROSALIE CARTWRIGHT KITCHEN: Anise Cafe, 1663 W. San Carlos St., San Jose (408) 298-8178 • www.anisecafe.com TW: What’s one ingredient you can’t do without? RC: I would say garlic. Almost all of my dishes have garlic. I think it really brings out the flavor in [dishes]. TW: What’s your favorite meal? RC: Another restaurant that I really love is Anh Hong on Tully Road. They serve seven-course beef… and I love that dish. At home when we do it, we usually have a group of 10 to 12 people. You roll everything fresh and it’s hands on. It’s a lot of fun and brings out conversation. It’s time-consuming, and a lot of people just want to eat their food and not deal with preparing it. But with this, you have to cook your meat, your shrimp, put it on rice paper, add vegetables and roll it. Every bite is another roll. It’s a working meal. TW: What dish would you cook to wow friends? RC: Usually what I do with a nice sitdown dinner is a langoustine salad with mango, avocado, and blood orange. It looks amazing, with yellow from the mango and green from the avocado. Blood orange just makes the dish so pretty. The shape of the langoustine looks like a lobster, only smaller. I deep-fry the head and display it on the plate. And it looks so architecturally defined that people don’t want to eat it. I will follow that up with an osso bucco Milanese, a veal shank. TW: Who’s your favorite cookbook author or cooking show host? RC: Flavor by Rocco Dispirito. He’s Italian and he uses old-school techniques with ingredients from around 144 R osalie Cartwright credits her Vietnamese mom and grandma with giving her a culinary head start. It was in their kitchens that she learned how to gut a fish, carve a chicken, and the clever use of special Vietnamese, Thai and Indian ingredients. Working in several restaurants after coming to the U.S. with her family at 13, Cartwright’s interest in the food business grew. But her passion for cooking was put on the back burner for an accounting and marketing career. It wasn’t until 2004 that this mother of two decided to combine her head for numbers with her culinary talents to start her own restaurant. The result? Anise, a cozy 75-seat joint with creative California-inspired Vietnamese fare that has also become known as one of Silicon Valley’s hidden gems. TW: Who inspires you? RC: Two people: Julia Child changed the way we think about food in this country. She’s a great teacher and 24 2007 SPRING DINING GUIDE always cooks with grace and ease. Alice Waters shook up the food world almost 35 years ago with her restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and set the foundation for organic produce. Both are pioneers. TW: What’s your signature dish? RC: My specialty at the restaurant is a green apple salad with lemongrass beef. It’s basic, yet refreshing. I use Vietnamese vinaigrette to bring out the flavor of the apple, and lemongrass is a great herb to use with beef and pork. TW: What’s your favorite Silicon Valley restaurant? RC: Sushi Zen on First Street. They make a great soft-shelled crab with Japanese vinaigrette. All their sushi is so fresh and I’ve not had a bad meal there. Another is La Foret. It’s so hidden; it kind of reminds me of my restaurant. They do a wonderful job on their wild game. Good service, great space. MANGO & WATERCRESS SALAD (SERVES FOUR) FOR DRESSING 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 ½ tablespoon Asian sesame oil ¼ cup fresh lime juice 2 cloves of shallots finely chopped 2 cloves of garlic finely chopped 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon of galanga finely chopped 1 teaspoon lemongrass finely chopped 2 dashes hot sauce such as Tabasco or Spiracha Freshly ground white pepper to taste FOR SALAD ¾ pound watercress, coarse stems discarded (about 6 cups loosely packed) 1 (1- 1 ½ pounds) firm-ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and cut into julienne strips – this can be done by using a shredder ¼ cup torn fresh cilantro leaves ¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves 1 pound shrimp, shelled and deveined; rinse well. Add a dash of salt to shrimp and poach. Peel and slice into half. Whisk together all dressing ingredients in a small bowl, then whisk in salt to taste. Gently toss all salad ingredients together in a bowl. Add just enough dressing to coat. PRESENTATION Deep-fry 8 squares wonton On a square plate, put a little bit of the Mango & Watercress Salad in the center of the plate as an anchor; then place a wonton on top. Again, add more of the salad, top it with another wonton before balancing the rest of the salad on it. Top with shrimp, cilantro and basil. Optional: Top with roasted sesame seed, roasted shallots, and fried taro. “Every chef has a favorite fruit or vegetable. Mine has always been watercress and mango. Watercress has a peppery and slightly bitter taste. It is perfect with mango, which is a little sour and sweet. There’s great contrast in color and flavor, and both complement each other. Watercress is also an excellent source of vitamins A and C, vitamin K, potassium, iron, copper and calcium.” – Rosalie Cartwright