CUSTOMIZED COLOR
Transcription
CUSTOMIZED COLOR
full spectrum™ color wheel and natural remaining pigment 4 simple steps to hair color formulation tonal result guidelines to neutralize: Choose the tone that is opposite from the N.R.P at the target level, on other side of the color wheel. to intensify: Choose tones that are the same Y/O as the N.R.P. at the target level. tel Pas ORAN G RED Dark R/O Light O/R YELLOW G E VIOLET Da rk B/V D ar kV /R lB /B ht V Pastel Violet Blue/Violet 7 Medium Blonde Orange Blue 6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange Blue/Green 5 Lightest Brown 4 Light Brown 3 Medium Brown 2 Dark Brown 1 Black Red Green L ig Yellow/Orange lu e Light Blonde 30 minutes 10 Volume 20 minutes 0–1 5 Volume 20 minutes • Signature blend of protective plant oils — with organic sunflower, castor, jojoba, coconut and babassu oils — conditions hair and infuses it with amazing shine. •Fade-resistant formula contains solely oxidative dyes that develop inside the cortical fiber to lock in long-lasting color that stays true from service to service. 1 : 1 ratio •Patented green tea creates a broader spectrum of color — providing the ultimate artist’s palette for colorists. • Patented red tea’s powerful anti-oxidant properties help protect the hair color formula. • Candelilla wax creates a rich, creamy consistency that allows for precise, drip-free applications that can be applied with a bottle or a bowl and brush. designed to customize OUR MISSION AT AVEDA IS TO CARE FOR THE WORLD WE LIVE IN, FROM THE PRODUCTS WE MAKE TO THE WAYS IN WHICH WE GIVE BACK TO SOCIETY. AT AVEDA, WE STRIVE TO SET AN EXAMPLE FOR ENVIRONMENTAL LEADERSHIP AND RESPONSIBILITY, NOT JUST IN THE WORLD OF BEAUTY, BUT AROUND THE WORLD. Full spectrum™ hair color was designed for ultimate customization through a simple component system of base + tone. FIRST SELECT YOUR DESIRED BASE natural series: Natural shades that can be used alone or customized with pure tones and pure pigments for a complete range of tonal families. intense base: A virtually colorless base that intensifies red shades when customized with natural series and pure tones or pure pigments. 1. Determine the guest’s desired tonal value and select the appropriate pastel tone to mix with extra lifting creme. Pas te 8 Violet 20 Volume 1 3 simple steps tB /B Yellow 2 extra lift pastel blondes Li gh Pale Yellow Very Light Blonde 40 minutes formulation guidelines Dark B/G Lightest Blonde 9 45 minutes 30 Volume Mix full spectrum™ protective permanent creme hair color natural series and intense series formulas plus chosen pure tone or pure pigment in a 1:1 ratio with color catalyst creme developer. Please refer to customization chart for hair color formulations. Process according to color catalyst strength (20–45 minutes at room temperature). BLU E 10 40 Volume 3 mixing and processing /O rk Y COMPLEMENTARY PIGMENT 4 PROCESSING TIME For the most vibrant color results, mix intense base + natural shade + pure tone or red pure pigment. EN RE NATURAL REMAINING PIGMENT COLOR CATALYST VOLUME NEEDED formulation guidelines for creating intense copper, intense violet/red and intense red series /O g ht Y Da LEVELS OF LIFT Let your artistry shine with full spectrum™ pure tones and pure pigments that give you the palette to create any shade you can imagine. Our fade-resistant formulas are up to 96% naturally derived* for essentially damage-free results — and they’re created with an environmental and social conscience that you and your guests can feel good about. extra lifting creme: A high-lift base designed to be used on its own or customized with pastel tones to create any high-lift blonde shade from golden to platinum. 2. Determine the desired amount of lift and select the appropriate volume of color catalyst creme developer. (You can lighten up to a maximum of 5 levels with extra lifting creme and pastel tone formulas.) full spectrum™ universal ØN: A virtually colorless, ammonia-free base that can be intermixed with any base, tone or pigment. It enhances hair with incredible condition and shine for the ideal glossing treatment. 3. Always mix extra lift pastel blonde series with color catalyst creme developer in a 1:2 ratio. LEVELS OF LIFT COLOR CATALYST VOLUME NEEDED 5 40 Volume 45 minutes 4 30 Volume 30 minutes NEXT CUSTOMIZE YOUR BASE WITH TONE pure tones: A combination of primary and secondary tones that can be used to customize multiple bases to create a range of tonal families. PROCESSING TIME (without heat) pure pigments: The full spectrum of pure primary and secondary colors for an unlimited palette. Use them alone for pure colors or to customize any base. 1 : 2 ratio pastel tones: Designed to specifically customize with extra lifting creme to create any high-lift blonde shade from golden to platinum. usage guidelines pure pigments •To get pure primary and secondary colors on pre-lightened hair, mix pure pigments and 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer in a 1:1 ratio and process for 10–20 minutes. CUSTOMIZED COLOR CREATED WITH A CONSCIENCE •To add tonality to natural series shades 3–6, replace pure tones with pure pigments at up to double the amount recommended for the level. •To intensify a tonal family shade at levels 3–6, customize with pure tone at the recommended amount for the level and add up to an equal amount of pure pigment. (Pure pigments are not recommended for use on levels 7–10 to achieve a natural-looking result, because of the concentration of dyes.) aveda full spectrum permanent hair color chart ™ 1950-109 Li protective permanent creme hair color Always remember to patch test before every hair color application. 1. Identify the guest’s natural level. 2. Determine the guest’s desired level and tone. 3. Choose the formula at the desired level. 4. Determine the appropriate volume of color catalyst™ conditioning creme developer based on the desired levels of lift. Natural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.) is the tonal value that the hair contributes as it lightens. It is important to determine the N.R.P. the hair will contribute at the desired level prior to coloring the hair. After you identify the N.R.P. at the desired level, determine whether you want to enhance or neutralize the N.R.P. and select your shade accordingly, using the color wheel. DESCRIPTOR ™ natural series and intense series working with natural remaining pigment LEVEL full spectrum formulation guidelines Soy ink on 100% post-consumer recycled paper. Please recycle. ©Aveda Corp., Minneapolis, MN 55449-7106 800.328.0849 USA / 763.951.6999 aveda.com A997-70-0003 BASE + TONE + COLOR CATALYST *From plants and non-petroleum minerals. = HAIR COLOR FORMULA ø universal øN customizable colorless base EXTRA LIFT PASTEL BLONDE SERIES natural natural/natural ash intense ash intense series customization gold copper violet/red red intense copper intense violet/red intense red Universal øN is recommended for customization with all Bases, Pure Tones and Pure Pigments extra lifting creme (elc) pastel tones Extra Light Platinum Blonde 40 g ELC 4 g Pastel Violet Extra Light Ash Blonde 40 g ELC 4 g Pastel Blue Extra Light Golden Blonde 40 g ELC 4 g Pastel Yellow/Orange pastel violet pastel blue pastel yellow/orange full spectrum™ permanent hair color guidelines natural series guidelines for mixing For natural results with a wide spectrum of tonal families, mix natural shade + pure tone. ELC mixing for customized results Use the guidelines below to create customized formulas with your guest’s desired level of vibrancy or translucency. Mix hair color formulas in a 1:1 ratio with color catalyst™ creme developer. BASE CATEGORY 10 10Natural lightest blonde 9 light 9Natural very light blonde 8 8Natural light blonde 7 7Natural medium blonde light pure tones 10 N/N lightest blonde 40 g 10Natural 2 g Light Natural/Natural 9 N/N very light blonde 40 g 9Natural 4 g Light Natural/Natural 8 N/N light blonde 40 g 8Natural 6 g Light Natural/Natural 7 N/N medium blonde 40 g 7Natural 8 g Light Natural/Natural light natural/natural 10 V/B lightest ash blonde 40 g 10Natural 2 g Light Violet/Blue 9 V/B very light ash blonde 40 g 9Natural 4 g Light Violet/Blue 8 V/B light ash blonde 40 g 8Natural 6 g Light Violet/Blue 7 V/B medium ash blonde 40 g 7Natural 8 g Light Violet/Blue light violet/blue 10 B/B lightest intense ash blonde 40 g 10Natural 2 g Light Blue/Blue 9 B/B very light intense ash blonde 40 g 9Natural 4 g Light Blue/Blue 8 B/B light intense ash blonde 40 g 8Natural 6 g Light Blue/Blue 7 B/B medium intense ash blonde 40 g 7Natural 8 g Light Blue/Blue light blue/blue 10 Y/O lightest golden blonde 40 g 10Natural 2 g Light Yellow/Orange 9 Y/O very light golden blonde 40 g 9Natural 4 g Light Yellow/Orange 8 Y/O light golden blonde 40 g 8Natural 6 g Light Yellow/Orange 7 Y/O medium golden blonde 40 g 7Natural 8 g Light Yellow/Orange 10 O/R lightest intense copper blonde 10 O/R lightest copper blonde 40 g 10Natural 2 g Light Orange/Red 9 O/R very light copper blonde 40 g 9Natural Not recommended for customization grams Not recommended for customization 10 g 9Natural 30 g Intense Base 8 g Light Orange/Red 4 g Light Orange/Red 6 6Natural dark blonde 5 dark 5Natural lightest brown 4 4Natural light brown 3 3Natural medium brown dark pure tones 6 N/N dark blonde 40 g 6Natural 2 g Dark Natural/Natural 5 N/N lightest brown 40 g 5Natural 4 g Dark Natural/Natural 4 N/N light brown 40 g 4Natural 6 B/V dark ash blonde 40 g 6Natural 2 g Dark Blue/Violet 5 B/V lightest ash brown 40 g 5Natural 4 g Dark Blue/Violet 4 B/V light ash brown 40 g 4Natural 6 g Dark Natural/Natural 6 g Dark Blue/Violet 3 N/N medium brown 40 g 3Natural 3 B/V medium ash brown 40 g 3Natural 8 g Dark Natural/Natural dark natural/natural 8 g Dark Blue/Violet dark blue/violet 6 B/G dark intense ash blonde 40 g 6Natural 2 g Dark Blue/Green 5 B/G lightest intense ash brown 40 g 5Natural 4 g Dark Blue/Green 4 B/G light intense ash brown 40 g 4Natural 6 Y/O dark golden blonde 40 g 6Natural 10 g 8Natural 30 g Intense Base 12 g Light Orange/Red 6 g Light Orange/Red 2 g Dark Yellow/Orange 5 Y/O lightest golden brown 40 g 5Natural light light orange/red 4 g Dark Yellow/Orange 4 Y/O light golden brown 40 g 4Natural 5 R/O lightest copper brown 40 g 5Natural 4 g Dark Red/Orange 4 R/O light copper brown 40 g 4Natural 6 V/R lightest violet/red 40 g 6Natural 2 g Dark Violet/Red 5 V/R very light violet/red 40 g 5Natural 4 g Dark Violet/Red 4 V/R light violet/red 40 g 4Natural 6R lightest red 40 g 6Natural 2 g Red Pure Pigment 5R very light red 40 g 5Natural 4 g Red Pure Pigment 4R light red 40 g 4Natural 6 g Dark Yellow/Orange 6 g Dark Red/Orange 6 g Dark Violet/Red 6 g Red Pure Pigment 3 B/G medium intense ash brown 40 g 3Natural 3 Y/O medium golden brown 40 g 3Natural 3 R/O medium copper brown 40 g 3Natural 3 V/R medium violet/red 40 g 3Natural 3R medium red 40 g 3Natural dark blue/green 8 g Dark Yellow/Orange 8 g Dark Red/Orange dark yellow/orange dark red/orange 40 g 9Natural 5Natural 40 g + 4g + 40 ml = 84 ml 8Natural 4Natural 40 g + 6g + 40 ml = 86 ml 7Natural 3Natural 40 g + 8g + 40 ml = 88 ml + 2g + 40 ml = 82 ml For vibrant color results, mix intense base + natural shade + pure tone or red pure pigment. 8 g Dark Violet/Red dark violet/red 8 g Red Pure Pigment red pure pigment 6 R/O dark intense copper blonde 10 g 6Natural 30 g Intense Base 4 g Dark Red/Orange 5 R/O lightest intense copper brown 10 g 5Natural 30 g Intense Base 8 g Dark Red/Orange 4 R/O light intense copper brown 10 g 4Natural 30 g Intense Base 12 g Dark Red/Orange 3 R/O medium intense copper brown 10 g 3Natural 30 g Intense Base 16 g Dark Red/Orange dark red/orange 2Natural dark brown STRONG BRIGHT INTENSE + + + + + 20 g 30 g REMOVE TONE LIGHTEN 1 LEVEL LIGHTEN 2 LEVELS LIGHTEN 3 LEVELS 50% less for level 1 scoop enlightener ™ powder lightener 1 scoop enlightener ™ powder lightener 1 scoop enlightener ™ powder lightener recommended for level 1 oz / 30 ml shampure™ shampoo 1 oz / 30 ml shampure™ shampoo 1 oz / 30 ml shampure™ shampoo 1 oz / 30 ml shampure™ shampoo 50% more for level 1 oz / 30 ml HOT water 1 oz / 30 ml 10 volume color catalyst™ 1 oz / 30 ml 20 volume color catalyst™ 1 oz / 30 ml 30 volume color catalyst™ double for level double for level EXTRA LIFT PASTEL BLONDES INTENSITY GUIDE CATEGORY EXTRA LIFTING CREME SOFT 40 g 40 g 40 g STANDARD formulation and mixing 1 scoop enlightener ™ powder lightener PURE TONES PASTEL TONES + + + 2g 4g 8g guidelines for grey coverage 6 V/R lightest intense violet/red 10 g 6Natural 30 g Intense Base 4 g Dark Violet/Red 5 V/R very light intense violet/red 10 g 5Natural 30 g Intense Base 8 g Dark Violet/Red 4 V/R light intense violet/red 6R lightest intense red 10 g 6Natural 30 g Intense Base 4 g Red Pure Pigment 5R very light intense red 10 g 5Natural 30 g Intense Base 8 g Red Pure Pigment 4R light intense red 10 g 4Natural 30 g Intense Base 12 g Dark Violet/Red 10 g 4Natural 30 g Intense Base 12 g Red Pure Pigment 3 V/R medium intense violet/red 3R medium intense red 10 g 3Natural 30 g Intense Base 16 g Dark Violet/Red dark violet/red 40 grams NATURAL SERIES SHADE LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES OR RED PURE PIGMENT INTENSE BASE 10Natural 6Natural 10 g + 30 g + 4g 9Natural 5Natural 10 g + 30 g + 8Natural 4Natural 7Natural 3Natural COLOR CATALYST™ 1:1 RATIO Use the guidelines below to get the level of grey coverage your guest wants. TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE FULL SPECTRUM PROTECTIVE PERMANENT CREME HAIR COLOR ™ + 40 ml = 84 ml natural series for natural grey coverage 20 volume color catalyst™ 45 minutes 8g + 40 ml = 88 ml natural/natural series for maximum grey coverage 20 volume color catalyst™ 30 minutes 10 g + 30 g + 12 g + 40 ml = 92 ml 10 g + 30 g + 16 g + 40 ml = 96 ml extra lift pastel blondes series guidelines for mixing For blondes that achieve up to 5 levels of lift with refinement, mix extra lifting creme + pastel tones. 10 g 3Natural 30 g Intense Base 16 g Red Pure Pigment red pure pigment 40 g Not recommended for customization STANDARD When a guest with colored hair desires a lighter shade, the previous hair color must be removed (hair color does not lift hair color). If no change has occurred in 10 minutes, rinse the hair. Remix the next strongest formula and reapply. Enlightener will work effectively for up to one hour. 1. application and processing: Section dry, unwashed hair into quadrants. Begin application in the darkest area. Apply quickly and saturate the hair thoroughly. Observe lightening and strand-test frequently until the desired level of lift or removal of tone has been achieved. 2. removal: Rinse the hair thoroughly and shampoo lightly with color conserve™ shampoo. Rinse and towel-dry the hair. Spray on 1 oz/30 ml of damage remedy™ equalizing solution and comb through to distribute evenly. 3. recolor: Apply the desired full spectrum™ hair color shade. Note: A test strand is recommended to ensure desired results on previously processed hair. EXTRA LIFTING CREME 2 TONE INTENSE BASE 40 g 40 g 40 g 20 g 10 g SOFT STRONG light orange/red 6 g Dark Blue/Green 8 g Dark Blue/Green 10Natural 6Natural 10 g 7Natural 30 g Intense Base 16 g Light Orange/Red 8 g Light Orange/Red 2 g Dark Red/Orange TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE intense series guidelines for mixing 7 O/R medium intense copper blonde 7 O/R medium copper blonde 40 g 7Natural 6 R/O dark copper blonde 40 g 6Natural COLOR CATALYST™ 1:1 RATIO LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES 8 O/R light intense copper blonde 8 O/R light copper blonde 40 g 8Natural light yellow/orange 9 O/R very light intense copper blonde NATURAL SERIES SHADE 40 10 g 10Natural 30 g Intense Base 4 g Light Orange/Red NATURAL SERIES hair color cleansing Identify the level of colored hair. Determine guest’s desired level and tone. Use the following chart to determine the appropriate formula. VIBRANCY GUIDE ™ full spectrum permanent customization mixing chart natural series customization level tone COLOR CATALYST™ 1:2 RATIO PASTEL TONES + 4g + 80 ml TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE = universal ØN Universal ØN is designed for use with all 3 full spectrum™ hair color lines — permanent, deep™ and deposit-only color treatment — for ultimate customization. When using the formulas on the chart below, mix with 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer. UNIVERSAL ØN CUSTOMIZATION GUIDE CATEGORY BASE UNIVERSAL ØN SOFT (color refreshing or glossing treatment) 40 g STANDARD (toning pre-lightened hair or toning down) 20 g STRONG (clear tone) 40 g TONE NATURAL SERIES 20 g PURE TONE + 0g–8g + 0g–8g + 10 g – 20 g color balancing guidelines reestablish color (if the color has lost tone or lightened up to 2–3 levels) 1. Apply desired full spectrum™ permanent hair color shade to new growth. 2. Apply the same shade with 5 volume color catalyst™ creme developer through mid-lengths to the ends, or apply matching full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment shade through mid-lengths to the ends. 3. Process for the last 20 minutes of the retouch development time. 4. Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with color conserve™ shampoo. Condition with color conserve™ pHinish.™ COLOR BALANCING GUIDE LEAST TRANSLUCENT 124 ml 1 1Natural black pure pigments blue green yellow orange violet red questions? Call the Aveda Technical Hotline at 1-888-HAIR-SØS (424-7707) USA. MOST TRANSLUCENT BASE TONE PURE TONE PURE PIGMENT 20 g pure* + standard for level 20 g + standard for level extreme gloss 20 g + 20 g tonal gloss 40 g + 8g clear gloss 40 g color balance 40 g natural tonal gloss 20 g *On hair pre-lightened to pale yellow. TARGET TONE (FULL SPECTRUM™ PERMANENT HAIR COLOR) TARGET LEVEL NATURAL, ASH & GOLD LIGHT COPPER, DARK COPPER, RED & VIOLET/RED INTENSE LIGHT COPPER, DARK COPPER, RED & VIOLET/RED FULL SPECTRUM™ DEPOSIT-ONLY COLOR TREATMENT PRECOLORATION FORMULAS 1. Apply desired full spectrum™ permanent hair color shade to new growth. 2. Process for appropriate time for strength of color catalyst™ creme developer. 3. Add water to the hair, work mixture through mid-lengths to the ends and emulsify for 2–5 minutes before rinsing. 4. Rinse thoroughly and shampoo with color conserve™ shampoo. Condition with color conserve™ pHinish.™ NATURAL SERIES UNIVERSAL ØN When a client’s desired shade is 3 or more levels darker than the previously colored hair, it may be necessary to precolor the hair. Precoloration provides the Natural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.) required to support the desired shade. Use full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment and universal ØN customizable base when precoloring hair. 1. formulation: Identify the client’s natural level and the level and tone of the colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Select the appropriate precoloration formula based on the desired level. 2. mixing: Dispense the recommended amount of deposit-only color treatment natural series, ØN, pure tone and developer into a non-metallic mixing bowl or applicator bottle. Mix thoroughly. 3. equalizing: Spray on damage remedy™ equalizing solution and comb through. 4. application: Section dry, unwashed hair into quadrants. Take 1/4" partings and apply only to hair strands that are 3 or more levels lighter than the desired result. 5. processing: Process at room temperature for 15–20 minutes. 6. removal: Rinse the precoloration formula thoroughly from the hair. Shampoo lightly with color conserve™ shampoo. 7. recolor: Towel-dry hair. Apply desired shade of full spectrum™ permanent hair color with 20 volume color catalyst™ creme developer. Process for 30 minutes. 10 refresh color (if the color has lost tone or lightened up to 1 level) CATEGORY precoloration guidelines OR 20 g N/A 9 20 g 9N + 20 g ØN + 4 g Light Y/O 20 g 9N + 20 g ØN + 4 g Light O/R 10 g 9N + 30 g ØN + 8 g Light O/R 8 20 g 8N + 20 g ØN + 6 g Light Y/O 20 g 8N + 20 g ØN + 6 g Light O/R 10 g 8N + 30 g ØN + 12 g Light O/R 7 20 g 7N + 20 g ØN + 8 g Light Y/O 20 g 7N + 20 g ØN + 8 g Light O/R 10 g 7N + 30 g ØN + 16 g Light O/R 6 20 g 6N + 20 g ØN + 1 g Dark Y/O + 1 g Dark R/O 20 g 6N + 20 g ØN + 4 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 10 g 6N + 30 g ØN + 4 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 5 20 g 5N + 20 g ØN 20 g 5N + 20 g ØN R/O, Dark R/R or + 2 g Dark Y/O + 2 g Dark R/O + 8 g DarkDark R/V 10 g 5N + 30 g ØN + 8 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 4 20 g 4N + 20 g ØN 20 g 4N + 20 g ØN R/O, Dark R/R or + 3 g Dark Y/O + 3 g Dark R/O + 12 g DarkDark R/V 10 g 4N + 30 g ØN + 12 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 3 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN R/O, Dark R/R or + 4 g Dark Y/O + 4 g Dark R/O + 16 g Dark Dark R/V 10 g 3N + 30 g ØN + 16 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 2 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN R/O, Dark R/R or + 4 g Dark Y/O + 4 g Dark R/O + 16 g Dark Dark R/V 10 g 3N + 30 g ØN + 16 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V 1 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN R/O, Dark R/R or + 4 g Dark Y/O + 4 g Dark R/O + 16 g Dark Dark R/V 10 g 3N + 30 g ØN + 16 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or Dark R/V
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