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A U T U M N
RIDIN G
M ASTER
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2 0 1 1
HIG H
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O N
T H E
CL ASS — L A M B
SQ UAR E
B O O ST
L A M B
T H E
STR OK E
CUT
YO U R
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O N E
M ASTERPIECE
M E AT
CUT
STR EE T
E
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&
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B O A R D
O N
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W O N D ERS
M O M E N TA R Y — 6:05P M
M
# 7 3
S H EEP’S
SH O UL D ER
M A STER PIECES
S A N D WIC H
J O U R N A L
S T
WIT H
O
C
K
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B A CK
:
B O NIN G
H.A.M.
CR E D
T H E
T H E
•
#4992
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C R E D I T S
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RIDING HIGH
ON THE
S H EEP’S B ACK
p g. 0 4
MASTER CLASS—
L A M B M ASTERPIECE:
BONING OUT A
SQUARE CUT SHOULDER
H.A.M. #4992
p g. 0 8
BOOST YOUR MEAT
STREET CRED WITH
LAMB MASTERPIECES
p g.14
M O MENTARY—
6:05PM WITH
MARK BEST
p g.4 0
Contents
BITE SIZED
p g. 3 8
ON THE MENU—
THE SANDWICH BOARD
p g.16
Contents
THE MASTER
STROKE
p g. 24
O NE CUT W O N D ERS:
LAMB NECK
H.A.M. #5020
p g. 2 8
–
E D I TO R ' S
N OT E
–
DEAR CHEF’S SPECIAL READER,
THIS ISSUE SEES THE LAUNCH OF LA MB M ASTERPIECES;
THE N EXT I NSTA L MEN T OF OU R I NCR EDIBLY
SUCCESSFUL MASTERPIECES PROGR A M WHICH FOLLOWS
CLOSELY ON THE HEELS OF THE BEEF M ASTER PIECES
DEBUT IN JUNE LAST YEAR. THE FOODSERVICE
LA NDSCAPE WILL NEVER BE THE SA ME AGAIN WITH
CHEFS ACROSS AUSTR ALI A GR ABBING THE BULL BY THE
HOR NS (OOPS, MIND THE IDIOM) A ND EMBR ACING BOL AR
BLADES, BRISKETS, FLANKS AND FLAT IRONS AND PUTTING
THEM ON THEIR MENUS. THESE CUTS ARE NOW COMMONPL ACE
ON THE FE ATU R E PAGES OF OU R LE A DI NG F OOD M AG A ZI N ES
MONTH AFTER MONTH, CHECK OUT A RESTUAR ANT SUCCESS
STORY, A N DY BA LL OF BEL MON DO, ON PAGE 24.
TO CELEBR ATE THE LAUNCH OF LA MB M ASTERPIECES
T H IS AU TU M N W E H AV E I NCLU DED A SPECI A L SN E A K
PREVIEW OF ONE OF THE CUTS, THE FOREQUARTER;
W ITH A SHOU LDER FE ATU R E I N M A STERCL A SS (PAGE 8),
T H E N ECK I N "ON T H E M E N U " ( PAGE 16) A N D "ON E CU T
WON DER S" (PAGE 28). L A MB MI NCE A LSO SHI N ES I N THE
SHEPHER D’S K NISH, A WA R M SA N DW ICH I NSPIR ED BY THE
JEW ISH SNACK, JUST IN TIME FOR THOSE AUTUMN
LUNCH BOARDS.
READ ON MY FLEISCHMEISTER IN THE MAKING,
CON NAUGH.
P. S . W I T H A N E W Y E A R C O M E S A N E W F O O D FA D , M OV E M E N T,
TR EN D, R AGE… W H AT EV ER YOU 'D LIK E TO C A LL IT. CHECK
OU T PAGE 42 F OR M Y LIST OF THE HOT TEST CU T TI NG EDGE
CU LI N A RY CR A Z E S W E H AV E T O L OOK F ORWA R D T O I N 2011
A ND BEYOND.
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03
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F E AT U R E
0.1
–
R
P aul and K ylie W alton of
W urrook S uperfine P rime
produce a slow maturing ,
fine grained merino meat
on their property , W urrook ,
situated 1 5 0 kilometres
west of M elbourne ’ s C B D .
T hey invited C hef ’ s S pecial
onto their property to talk
about their S uperfine P rime
M E R I N O meat .
O
S
Traditionally Superfine Merino sheep aren’t
produced for meat; they’re a wool producing
animal. What made you decide to use the breed
for meat production?
I
D
H
I
N
H
B
It is rare for Australian consumers to be served
meat from Merino lambs which are specifically
bred for the wool industry, however; improvements
in production mean that Merino sheepmeat may
become more common. Prime lamb, which is
generally what is used in the foodservice sector
are not of pure Merino breeding; they are typically
bred by joining a first cross ewe (Merino crossed
with a Border Leister) and a meat breed ram such as
a Suffolk or a Poll Dorset, lambs produced this way rely
on hybrid vigour to achieve maximum weight gain.
A
With lamb so ably produced and
popular amongst consumers,
the consumption of the more
mellow and mature sheepmeat
has, in a mainstream sense,
become a thing of the past.
However with Australian
chefs seeking unique stories
of provenance, production
At Wurrook all of our sheep are pure Merino.
Our Wurrook Superfine Prime brand utilises
a unique 150 year old Wurrook bloodline. Our
bloodline and our environmental conditions allow
us to have a dual purpose production system here
at Wurrook- producing wool and meat from Superfine
Merino sheep.
We find the quality of our meat is refflective of
the quality of our wool- we produce award winning
superfine wool so the grain of our meat is also delicate
and fine. We allow our animals two years to mature
slowly on our natural grasslands so the meat has
a longer time to develop its fflavours and balances.
It’s a lovely sweet red meat that has a distinct fflavour.
–
E
04
–
E
–
I
N
G
H
T
H
E
P
C
F E AT U R E
0.1
–
G
E
’
S
K
Paul and Kylie
Walton with an
award winning
ram.
and breeding to differentiate
their menus and provide their
customers with a story, a
renaissance of the more mature
sheepmeat is now occurring.
The production of consistent
quality product, within the
sheepmeat category, is starting
to bring it back onto menus.
–05 –
–
F E AT U R E
Can you tell us a little about how you produce the
Superfine Prime meat?
Our farm is situated between Ballarat, Geelong
and Colac, on the Western Plains of Victoria, a
high rainfall region known for its fresh, clean air.
The property consists of 7,000 acres of which
about 300 acres is cropped with cereal crops
and the remaining is for grazing. Our fflock is
currently 20,000 Wurrook Superfine Merinos which
have been producing some of the best superfine wool
in the world. Our family has been producing award
winning wool here for over 150 years. For generations
the family has been eating our Merino meat but we
started to produce Superfine Prime meat specifically
for market around 5 years ago.
Our Superfine Merinos are slowly matured for two
years on the land, during this time they produce the
award winning superfine wool before they are finished
on a natural blend of GM free grains to produce
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0.1
–
a rich, sweet fflavoured, fine-grained meat. We like
to control all aspects of the production so we grow
the grain on our property as well. The grain finishing
is more for the fflavour rather than consistency.
Our welfare standards and low-stress handling of
our sheep is integral to the production of Wurrook
Superfine Prime. We maintain complete supply
chain management from paddock to plate so the
chef knows where the product has come from,
what it has been eating and how it has been treated.
This includes a strict protocol of no growth hormones
and no antibiotics.
Unlike Prime lambs, which are bred to grow out
quickly, the Superfine Merino is a naturally slower
maturing breed of sheep. That’s why the age at
which we process our Merinos is two years old.
Every sheep produced for meat is processed at
two years old, no exceptions; we’re proud of our
consistency. The sheepmeat category Wurrook
06
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–
F E AT U R E
0.1
–
How do you cook Superfine Prime?
is classified in under AUSMEAT system is either
“Hogget” or “Mutton”, however these classifications
conjure up negative connotations with chefs. Our
dedicated production system means we’re a long
way better than standard ‘Mutton’ which can be
anything up to seven years old and of any breed
which is why we market our product under the
Wurrook Superfine Prime brand.
We advocate slow cooking of our meat; however
with the fine grain of our product you can grill
some cuts and demand for the grilling cuts such as
cutlet and backstrap is high. It’s a sweet meat because
of its natural sugars. The sweetness is a
good indication that our animals are really well
looked after. We also know there is a beautiful
balance of fat and structure through the meat
so it is just perfect for foodservice operators.
Allowing our Superfine Merinos to naturally
mature for two years on the land has dual benefits.
One being they will produce two ffleeces of award
winning superfine Merino wool and the other is that
it allows time for the natural fflavour and quality of
the meat to develop.
Chef Jake Nicholson of Circa, The Prince in
Melbourne has a signature dish using our product.
It’s a 48 hour Superfine Prime shoulder served with
broccolini, roasted peppers, olives, skordalia. It is
sous-vide for the 48 hours and crisped up on a hot
With our Merinos being a self replacing, pure breed
and the meat and wool from them of such high quality, pan before serving. It’s absolutely delicious and is
you won’t get a much better example of sustainability. a total sell-out when it is on the menu.
Even though there are the obvious seasonal
changes to our pastures we have found that we are
able to ensure the consistency of the meat’s fflavour
by supplementing the Merinos’ diet for two weeks prior
to processing with cereal grains grown on our farm.
After the Merinos are processed we hang them
for two weeks to increase tenderness through the
aging process. Our client’s needs, in terms of cuts
and weights, will determine where Wurrook product
ends up. It’s available both at retail and restaurants
in Victoria and we’ll be pushing into the other
states soon.
To do a shoulder in a more conventional way
a 1-2kg shoulder will take about 2-3 hours. The
shoulder is made up of several working muscles
but when cooked properly the fflavour and tenderness
can far exceed other cuts. The shoulder is a hard
working part of the sheep so it needs time to tenderise
whilst cooking. The low and slow method is the best
approach for this cut.
Our philosophy here at Wurrook is simple, we aim to
be the best at whatever we do. If we strive to achieve
that goal there will always be a market for our wool
and sheepmeat products.
¤
–
07
–
–
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
LAMB MASTERPIECE
—
BONING OUT
A SQUARE CUT
SHOULDER
H.A.M
n O . 4992
1
1
A Square Cut Shoulder is prepared from a
forequarter of lamb by removing the Neck,
the Breast and the Fore Shank. The deboned
Square Cut Shoulder (H.A.M. #5050) is prepared
by the removal of all the bones, cartilage
and sinew, the ligamentum nuchae (Paddy
Whack) and lymph node gland. The Shoulder is
finished by being rolled and tied or netted.
–
08
–
–
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
2
3
4
Remove the rib bones by
following the line of the
bones beside the meat.
4
2
3
5
6
7
Cut along the vertebra
with your knife and
completely remove the
spine and the breast
plate from the shoulder.
6
5
7
–
09
–
–
8
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
Trim off paddy whack.
9
9
11
8
10
Trim any excess fat.
11
10
–
10
–
Find the top of the scapular
bone with your knife,
–
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
12
13
14
Peel the meat back off the
bone without slicing through
the muscle.
14
12
13
15
16
16
15
–
11
–
Mark around the bone
with the tip of your
knife to loosen.
–
17
Push down on
the scapular
your hand to
joint cup at
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
the tip of
bone with
reveal the
the top.
18
Slide your knife between the bones
to release. Mark around the top of the
bone and along the side to loosen the
meat off the bone. Pull the scapular
bone off the meat using your hand.
18
17
20
19
19
20
21
Make a cut through the meat,
against the shoulder bone to
reveal the humerus and use your
knife to peel the meat from
the bone.
–
12
21
–
–
22
23
M A S T E R
C L A S S
–
Remove the lymph
node & and
other glands.
24
22
23
25
26
27
24
Roll up the
shoulder and
net or truss
using string.
24½
26
25
27
–
13
–
Trim any excess
fat and make a
cut in the flap
of meat, leaving
it attached.
Fold into a roll.
–
F E AT U R E
0.2
–
Boost your
MEAT STREET cred
with Lamb
MASTERPIECES
+++++
for more information on the lamb masterpieces, or to attend
a masterclass in your state, contact your state’s business
development manager or email chefspecial@mla.com.au
–
14
–
–
F E AT U R E
We're taking our message to the streets. We're
debunking the myth that lamb is only for special
occasions or big wallets. Lamb is special, there's
no doubt about that, but the occasion doesn't
have to be.
There is nothing like the gorgeous smell of
roasting lamb or the addictive taste of juicy
lamb kebabs. Lamb is for ever yday and for all
people. It 's a core ingredient celebrated by many
cuisines; it 's a food that brings people together.
It can be used in a dish that is elegantly simple
or in a riot of flavours where it definitely holds
its own.
Lamb is made up of more than backstrap
and cutlets; and we want to shine a spotlight
on these equally fantastic “other" cuts, cuts we
call the Masterpieces. In this next Masterpiece
edition, we've focused on the forequarter, ribs,
rump and the great all-rounder, mince. We
selected these cuts after reviewing a range of
national and international cuisine st yles and
trends. We've researched preparation techniques
and flavour combinations and with the help
of some of Australia's leading chefs showcased
a number of cuisine st yles proven to transform
these ever yday cuts into menu Masterpieces.
According to Claire Tindale, the Trade Projects
Executive at Meat & Livestock Australia, “One
of the virtues of lamb is that the meat lends
itself to a myriad of flavours. “So many cuisines
use lamb” she says. She lists the countries
from which Masterpiece recipes will be drawn.
“Morocco, Syria, Iran, Greece, France, Italy,
Spain… Even Japan has been using more
lamb. The Koreans are using ribs with a red
bean paste that includes chilli, and honey,
for lovely sticky ribs to as a bar snack, or a
tapas plate.”
As with the beef Masterpieces, there will be
a portfolio of recipes for chefs to use and be
inspired by.
The humblest Masterpiece cut of all shows
itself extremely versatile. Lamb mince has
been a surprising success in the United States –
surprising because lamb is not a popular meat
there. But when lamb becomes a mini-hamburger,
with added Latino flavours in the form of a
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0.2
–
chipotle mayonnaise, it’s a huge success. Those
bite-size burgers are better known throughout
their countr y of origin as Sliders.
Lamb mince is a particularly popular meat
in many Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and
Balkan countries, where for home cooks it is
a really economical meat. Lamb mince is a low
cost ingredient partly due to its abilit y to be
‘stretched’ by other ingredients and still keep
its identit y. For example, a little lamb mince
mixed with cooked onions, rice, herbs and
spices is an excellent filling for cabbage or
vine leaves, for hollowed-out tomatoes, zucchini,
onions, peppers, and baby eggplant; concepts
that translate well into our foodser vice sector.
Stuffed vegetables or leaves can be ser ved
individually, as little appetisers, or as
an entrée.
Middle Eastern cooker y offers a treasure-house
of minced lamb recipes, including chiche barak,
a meat-filled fried dumpling that is ser ved with
rice and herbed yoghurt. The dumpling is found
throughout the Middle East, but seems most
popular in Lebanon and Syria.
The forequarter – which breaks down into the
neck, the shoulder, ribs and the shoulder rack –
lends itself to slow cooking, per fect for dishes
in cooler months. The braised meat can be
ser ved as is, or shredded and used in dumplings,
salads, or even glamorous heart y sandwiches.
It can also be shaped and coated in breadcrumbs.
“Think duo,” advises Claire, who suggests using
a combination of cuts on a plate – a single lamb
cutlet, perhaps, accompanied by something made
from the neck or the shoulder. “A number of
chefs are already seeing the cost benefits of
this duo concept as well as the seeing the dish
as chance to show some creativit y and flair”.
These Masterpieces work as well for summer
months as for autumn and winter. In fact some
of the best Basque countr y dishes team lamb
with summer vegetables such as peppers and
tomatoes. These flavours work well with lamb
rump, or a combination of rump and shoulder.
“Two Masterpiece cuts on a plate look and sound
expensive, but are happily economical,” says
Claire, ”That’s a great way to keep lamb on your
menu and your customers coming back for more!”
¤
15
–
•
O N
T H E
M E N U
The Sandwich
–
In the recent USA National Restaurant
Association's Chef Survey: What’s Hot
in 2010/2011 the majority of chefs
agreed that gourmet sandwiches are
a hot trend. Australian chefs have
recognised the rise of the humble
sandwich with Panini bars opening
up
in
high
most
calibre
York-style
capital
chefs
cities
and
serving
New
sandwich
in
their
restaurants during the lunch rush.
The
Summit’s
opened
up
a
Michael
New
York
Moore
has
deli-style
sandwich shop in the new Westfield’s
andwich Board
shopping
joined
–
O N
centre,
shortly
North’s
T H E
M E N U
Sydney;
after
burger
•
he
by
joint
was
Justin
late
in
2010. With the days of long power
lunches
chefs
gone,
an
quality
the
sandwiches
opportunity
‘fast
margin.
The
to
food’
potential
to
on
the
offer
serve
that
make
menu
has
more
recipes
represent inspiration for a range
of
sectors
club
including
(cafe
and
café,
deli
pub,
outlets),
restaurant lunch menus, corporate
catering,
and
the
list
goes
on…
–
O N
T H E
M E N U
–
Osso
bucco
sambo
with
relish
Make
around
8 sandwiches
depending
on your
roll size
Relish:
4-5 celery stalks, sliced
into 1cm pieces
3-4 mixture of red, yellow
and green capsicums chopped
2 tblsps olive oil
1 tblsp tomato paste
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup brown sugar
Osso bucco confit:
1.5kg osso bucco
2 garlic cloves crushed
Chilli flakes for heat
1 tsp of cinnamon,
Salt & pepper
Bacon fat
to cover
Method:
Sauté celery and
capsicum in the olive
oil over a medium heat.
Season with salt. Once
soften, add tomato paste
and cook until it starts
to caramelise. Add the
vinegar and sugar
and cook, stirring often,
for 15 minutes or until
the relish thickens.
Method:
Marinade the osso bucco
for 24 hours in the garlic,
chilli and cinnamon.
Preheat oven to 120 degrees.
Place meat in heavy based
saucepan, cover with bacon fat
and seal tightly with oven paper
and foil. Cook for 10 hours
or until the meat falls from
the bones. Scrape off excess
fat and take meat off
the bones.
To serve:
8 soft white rolls
Serve osso bucco warm, in the roll
with a spoonful of relish.
–
18
–
The R achel
• •
The Rachel is a twist on the famous New York Reuben.
Here we’ve made the sandwich with lamb pastrami; the
lamb pastrami is less salty and more subtly flavoured
than the original.
–
O N
T H E
M E N U
–
Method:
1.5kg lamb
shoulder boned
Brine:
3.5 litres of water
3/4 cups salt
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup pink salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon fennel
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon clove
1 teaspoon cumin
6 cloves garlic
1/2 cup honey
2 sprigs rosemary
Bring all those ingredients to a boil and then chill completely.
After it is cold, strain out the spices and immerse the shoulder
in the liquid. Keep refrigerated. After
3 days, remove the shoulder. Crush
1 tablespoon each of black pepper,
coriander and fennel; rub the spices
into the lamb, covering it completely.
Using a smoke box, smoke the shoulder
at 150-180°C until the internal temperature of the lamb reaches 145°C. This
takes about 8 hours. Set your oven to
280°C. Cover the bottom of a deep pan
with an inch of water; place a bowl or
a rack in the bottom of the pan so the
lamb can sit above the liquid. Set the
lamb on a rack, cover the pan tightly
with tin foil and cook for 3 hours.
When cool, slice thinly.
S A N D W I CH :
2 slices rye bread
2 tablespoons Thousand
Island dressing
2 thin slices Swiss cheese
1/4 cup creamy coleslaw
4-5 pieces of thinly sliced
lamb pastrami
Method:
Spread the Thousand Island dressing
on one side of each of the slices of
rye bread. Place one slice of the
Swiss cheese over the Thousand
Island dressing. On one slice of
bread, spoon the coleslaw over the
Swiss cheese. Top the coleslaw with
the pastrami. Heat your griddle or
skillet over medium heat. Place the
bread in the skillet and cook for
several minutes until browned.
Carefully flip the sandwich to allow
the other side to cook. Cook until
warmed through.
Slice and serve.
–
21
–
The
Shepherd’s
Knish
The Knish For the dough filling 1 kilo of
boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered
1/4 cup milk 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 onions, chopped 3/4 cup finely chopped
mushrooms 1 teaspoon salt, Freshly
ground black pepper For the dough 2 eggs
3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2 cup
water 3 cups unbleached all-purpose
flour 1 egg beaten lightly with
1 tablespoon water for egg wash
–
O N
T H E
Method: Make the filling: Bring a pot
of salted water to a boil. Add the
potatoes and cook until tender. Drain
and place in a large bowl. Add the milk
and mash until smooth. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over
medium heat. Sweat the onions and
mushrooms and season well. Let cool
slightly. Add to the potatoes and
stir to combine. Set aside.
Make the dough: Place the eggs, oil,
water, and salt in a large bowl and
stir to combine. Add the flour gradually,
stirring first with a spoon and then
working the mixture with your hands,
until it is fully combined. Turn the
dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead just until smooth,
adding flour as necessary to keep the
dough from sticking. Form the dough
into a ball. Cover with a towel and
let rest for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Lightly
grease a baking sheet or line it
with parchment paper.
M E N U
The Shepherd’s meatloaf
2 slices white sandwich bread,
torn into small pieces
400gms lamb mince
1 large egg
4 cloves garlic chopped
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
Salt and black pepper
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Method: Heat oven to 200°C. In a
large bowl, combine the bread and
3 tablespoons water. Add the lamb,
egg, half the garlic, half the thyme,
¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
Place the mixture on a foil-lined
baking sheet and shape into a loaf.
Bake, brushing with the balsamic vinegar
several times during cooking, until
cooked through 30 to 35 minutes. Let
rest at least 5 minutes before slicing.
To Serve Halve a knish using a bread
knife. Place a piece of the shepherds’
meatloaf in the middle and warm through
in a toaster or sandwich press. Serve
with a tomato or BBQ sauce.
Make the knishes: On a lightly floured
surface, roll the dough out into a
large rectangle. Cut the dough in half
lengthwise, creating 2 rectangles each
35 cm x 13cm. Divide the filling along
one half of the dough, leaving enough
space in between each mound to slice
and separate the individual Knishes.
Place the other piece of dough on top,
press the edges together and push down
on the top to flatten the rolls slightly.
Place the rolls, seam side down, on the
prepared baking sheet and brush the
tops with the egg wash.
Bake until the dough is golden brown,
20 to 25 minutes.
–
–
23
–
–
There have been big
cha ng es in A ndy Ba ll’s st yle
of cook ing since he joined
Sydney ’s iconic Belmondo
rest aur a nt t wo yea r s ag o.
The English-bor n chef ha s
a back g round in t he five - st a r
hotels of L ondon a nd Michelinst a r red rest aur a nt s in New
York before he took t he job
of head chef at Belmondo.
At Cla r idg e’s a nd The R it z
in L ondon, he wa s using
Aberdeen A ng us beef. “ The
product s in Aust r a lia a re a s
g ood a s t he UK , but t here’s
more of t hat beaut if ul Wag y u
beef here,” say s A ndy when
a sked about his beef opt ions
in Aust r a lia .
“ The dif ference in Aust r a lia
is t he g reater r a ng e of beef
cut s ava ilable,” say s A ndy.
“I ca me from a world of beef
eye fillet a nd sirloin, in five
st a r hotels , it is top - end
[pr ime] cut s only,” he expla ins .
“Occa siona lly we mig ht do
a la mb nava r in for lunch.”
F E AT U R E
0.3
–
THE
Master St
Chef’s Specia
talks masterpie
with award winnin
Andy Ball, Belmo
t r oke
al
eces
ng Chef
o n d o.
But at Belmondo, t he hig hlig ht s on t he menu a re t he
Ma ster piece cut s – beef cheek s , oy ster blade a nd la mb
shoulder. They a re necessa r y choices to keep food cost s
in check a llow ing t he rest aur a nt to of fer t wo cour ses for
$55. “ There’s not hing “seconda r y ” about t hem,” say s A ndy
when quest ioned, “ They require more ef for t in t he k itchen,”
he says: “ t he invest ment is made in t he for m of prepa r at ion
a nd imag inat ion.”
Preparation and imagination are part of Andy’s history. He was UK
Chef of the Year in 2007, and won the prestigious William Heptinstall
award in the same year. That award enabled him to travel to the US
and work with Daniel Boulud at Daniel’s and Thomas Keller’s Per Se
in New York. Earlier in the decade, he had twice been selected to compete
alongside Claridge’s head chefs in the demanding Bocuse D’Or culinary
competition in France.
W hat br ought him to Aust r a lia wa s t he oppor t unit y to ma ke
his ma rk a s a head chef. His Aust r a lia n-bor n w ife must have
weig hted t he decision ma k ing too.
Diner s obv iously respond to t he way he t ack les Ma ster piece
cut s . He t a lk s about t he 20 0 beef cheek s he cooked dur ing
t he week , a nd t he 45 la mb shoulder s (he used to ma ke 250
por t ions). A s he point s out , la mb shoulder comes in a ha lf
t he cost of a la mb back st r ap – “ That ’s $4 per por t ion
instead of $8.”
On his menu at t he t ime he spoke to Chef ’s Specia l wa s
slow- cooked la mb shoulder w it h pea a nd mint r isot to w it h
a ca r a melised g a rlic a nd honey puree . For a n Eng lish-bor n
chef, t he combinat ion of la mb, pea s a nd mint is a s cla ssic
a s r oa st beef a nd York shire pudding.
One of t he most popula r dishes on t he menu is one of t he
Beef Ma ster pieces: t he Flat Ir on stea k . He buy s t he f ull oy ster
blade; t he k itchen tea m prepa res t he stea k . “It ’s not t hat ha rd
to cut a Flat Ir on stea k ,” he say s . “Not once you’ve done it a
few t imes . A nd it g ives t he g uy s in t he k itchen more pr oduct
k nowledg e a nd k nife sk ills .”
The lower cost s of t he Ma ster piece cut s such a s t he Flat Ir on
stea k g ive diner s a pa r t icula r bonus . L ower meat cost s mea n
it is possible to spend more on veg et able accompa niment s or
purcha se a more specia l breeds such a s Wag y u a nd st ill keep
w it hin budg et .
Is t here a ny t hing he misses about culina r y life in t he UK ?
“I miss some of t he Eng lish Cha nnel fish,” he confesses .
Ot her w ise , t hing s couldn’t be bet ter. He a nd his w ife have
a one -yea r - old daug hter. “ We’re a s happy a s ca n be .”
–
25
–
–
F E AT U R E
0.3
–
Andy’s G r i l l e d
Fl a t Iron stea k w i t h h e r b
m a s h, caramel i z e d o n i o n ,
r o ast Swiss b r o w n s a n d
red win e j u s
Ser ves 4
4 x 180gms Flat Iron steaks cut from the oyster blade 2 large brown
onions, peeled and sliced very finely 4 large royal blue potatoes, peeled and
cut in half 4 large Swiss brown mushrooms, large pinch of chopped parsley,
olive oil, salt and pepper, 100gms salted butter 100 ml pure cream, 250ml
veal jus 100 ml red wine 2 eschallots, peeled and chopped 1 clove garlic ,
peeled and chopped 1 small sprig of thyme
Sea son t he Flat Iron stea k s w it h sa lt a nd
pepper a nd t hen cook on a hot g r ill to
desired temper at ure.
To ma ke t he red w ine jus , ca r a meli ze a ny
t r imming s t hat you have fr om t he oy ster
blade in a heav y ba sed pa n a nd t hen add
t he escha llot s a nd t he g a rlic . Add t he t hy me
a nd t hen t he red w ine a nd reduce t he red
w ine f ully t ill it is s y r upy. Add t he vea l
jus , br ing to t he simmer a nd sk im of f a ny
fat . Reduce t he jus by ½ a nd t hen pa ss
t hr oug h a fine chinois . Cor rect t he
sea soning a nd consistenc y.
Cook t he sliced onions in a heav y ba sed
pa n on medium heat w it h a lit t le olive oil
a nd a k nob of but ter. Keep t he onions
mov ing in t he pa n t ill t hey have cooked
dow n a nd sof tened. Cont inue to cook t he
onions unt il t hey ca r a meli ze . They should
be a nice g olden brow n before you remove
t hem from t he pa n. Cook t he pot atoes in
boiling sa lted water a nd when cooked,
dr a in. Pa ss t hroug h a moulis a nd t hen
push t hr oug h a fine sieve . Mi x in t he
cold but ter a nd hot crea m using a r ubber
spat ula , do not over mi x . Sea son to t a ste .
Place t he Sw iss brow n mushr ooms in a
sma ll roa st ing t r ay a nd dr i zzle w it h olive
oil. Sea son w it h sa lt a nd pepper a nd t hen
roa st in t he oven for appr ox 5 minutes .
Mi x t he pa r sley into t he finished ma sh
a nd t hen pipe onto t he middle of t he plate ,
place t he Sw iss br ow n mushr oom next to t he
ma sh a nd place a quenelle of t he ca r a meli zed
onions opposite . Posit ion t he g r illed Flat Ir on
stea k on t he ma sh a nd t hen dr i zzle t he jus
a r ound t he plate .
–
27
–
–
26
–
O N E
C UT
WO N D E RS
L A M B N EC K
H . A . M N o. 5 0 2 0
the lamb neck is prepared from a lamb carcase
by a cut through and between the 3rd and 4th
vertebrae. fat and the outer edges of the neck
may be trimmed as required.
–
29
–
–
O N E
C U T
WO N D E R S
–
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SERVES
30
Duo of A ngus
gr a i n f ed
rost bi f f and
lamb neck
4kg lamb neck, trimmed
and bone removed
5kg Angus grain fed eye
rump side, trussed
550g carrot
150g celery
450g red onion
5L Fonds de veau
100g tomato trimmings
1pc bay leaf
200g flour
220g butter, unsalted
50mL corn oil
600g tomato, peeled
and diced
50g sugar
30mL red wine vinegar
45g basil, finely sliced
270mL olive oil
1kg broccoli florets,
roughly cut into smallpieces
400 cream
500g leek, sliced
300g milk
1.1L water
5g chicken stock cube
210g garlic
1kg mashed potato
500g button mushrooms,
diced
15 sheets puff pastry
50g demi glace
5g thyme
1/2 lemon
2g parsley, finely sliced
300g broccoli stems, diced
Salt
Black peppercorns
White peppercorns
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
30
–
)
Recipe from
S w i ss ô t e l
t h e S t am f o r d ,
Singapore group
MLA Black Box Culinary
Challenge: Global Grand
Final Round 4
Dubai, May 2008
–
O N E
C U T
WO N D E R S
–
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
METHOD:
Gâteau of lamb Neck:
1. Season the prepared lamb neck with salt
and black pepper and dust with flour. Brown
this with some oil and set aside.
2. Sweat a mirepoix of 200g carrot, and 100g
each of red onion and celery. Add the bay leaf
and the Fonds de Veau.
3. Allow this to boil before adding the lamb
neck, then place in the oven at 120°C for
approximately an hour and a half.
4. Once cooked, shred the lamb neck, toss
with the tomato trimmings, then place in
a tray using a heavy object to press it down.
Cut this into the desired shape once set.
{
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
O N E
C U T
Tomato Fondue:
1. Place the peeled and diced tomato in
a pot with sugar, red wine vinegar, and basil.
2. Let this mixture cook slowly until soft,
then finish with around 20ml olive oil.
WO N D E R S
–
Thyme Jus:
1. Sweat a mirepoix of diced carrot, celery
and red onion (50g of each), along with 10g
sliced garlic, black peppercorns and thyme.
2. Add 1 litre of water and the demi glace
before reducing to reach the desired jus
consistency.
3. Strain this mixture and finish with cold
butter and lemon juice.
Broccoli Mousseline:
1. Combine the broccoli florets, 200ml
cream, salt and pepper and cook until soft.
2. Puree this to reach a smooth consistency
then pass through a fine strainer.
3. Monte with some cold, unsalted butter.
Foamy Leek:
1. Sweat the sliced leek, then add 100ml each
of milk, cream and water, as well as the chicken
stock cube, and salt and pepper to taste.
2. Reduce this mixture, then puree until fine
and pass through a fine strainer.
3. Monte with some unsalted butter, then
"whizz" until foamy.
Roasted Angus Rostbiff:
1. Season the eye rump side with salt
and black pepper.
2. Sear the eye rump side until golden
brown, then cook in the oven at 120°C for
approximately 20 minutes.
3. Remove the butchers twine and cut into
fillet sizes.
Red Onion and Garlic Mash:
1. Cook 100g sliced garlic and 200g diced
red onion until soft.
2. Puree until fine, and then fold in parsley
and 10g unsalted butter. Adjust seasoning
to taste.
Vegetables:
1. Blanch 300g diced broccoli stems and 300g
diced carrot in salted, boiling water.
2. Sauté with butter and add seasoning to taste.
TO SERVE:
-
1
{
Potato and mushroom 'Papillote':
1. Sauté the button mushrooms and set
these aside, then boil 200ml milk and 100ml
cream before gradually adding the mashed
potato powder.
2. Mix in the sautéed mushroom and 50g
unsalted butter, and adjust the seasoning to
taste.
3. Spread this evenly onto a tray and chill.
Once hardened, cut into small rectangular
blocks.
4. Lay the puff pastry and brush with olive
oil, do this for 3 layers.
5. Roll the puff pastry over the potato blacks
and brush again with olive oil, then bake in the
oven until golden brown.
–
Using the parts of the dish, style plate
as desired.
33
–
–
O N E
C U T
WO N D E R S
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
Sourced from a kind
c h e f i n N EW YO R K CITY
(Meat & Livestock
A u s t ra l i a , U S A )
SERVES
2
Roa sted lamb neck
fi llet and mi nted
mus hy pea s
For the L A MB:
1 – 2 lamb neck fillets
2 cloves of garlic
1 tablespoon of olive oil
8 sage leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
For the min ted
m u sh y p e as :
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 bunch spring onions,
chopped
1 handful fresh mint leaves
1 pound (500 grams)
frozen peas
2 large knobs butter
Sea salt and freshly ground
black pepper
METHOD:
For the lamb, put the garlic, olive oil, seasonings
and sage leaves into a blender and chop to a rough
“paste”, smear it all over the lamb fillets and leave
to marinate until you need to cook them. Place in a
ziplock bag and Sous Vide for 6-8 hours at 60 degrees.
Once cool, slice and crisp up on all sides.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan and add the chopped
onions, mint, and peas. Cover and leave for a few
minutes to steam. Add butter and mash with a potato
masher, season to taste and rest in a warm place.
TO SERVE:
-
1
2
Spoon minted mushy peas onto a warm plate
or bowl.
Slice the lamb and place on top, pour any
roasting juices over the lamb for extra flavour.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
34
–
–
35
–
–
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
O N E
C U T
WO N D E R S
“
”
–
Th i s i s a v e r y s i m p l e d i sh . Th e e n d r e s u l t
d e p e n d s o n t h e q u a l i t y o f y o u r mas t e r s t o c k .
SERVES
4
(e nt r é e s)
Twice cooked
lamb neck
with or ange
AN D sta r anise ,
ci nnamon s piced
sweet potato
c h e f g r e g f arnan
The Old Brewery
Perth WA
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
O N E
C U T
WO N D E R S
–
Lamb Neck:
Seal lamb neck in pan until brown on
all sides. Place in braising dish and cover
with master stock. Put in oven on 170˚C
for 3 hours or until meat comes away from
the bone. When cooked, remove from stock
and allow to cool. When at room temperature,
carefully remove meat from the bone, keeping
the meat intact and then cut in two. Refrigerate
until firm or set.
2 whole lamb necks.
(Skin on and bone in)
500g sweet potato peeled
1 star anise pod
2 cinnamon quills
2 navel oranges
(Zested and segmented)
Half a bunch of coriander
100g butter
1L Chinese master stock
(Prepare the night before
- see recipe below)
Sweet Potato:
Steam peeled sweet potato with star anise
and cinnamon. When cooked, remove from
steamer and separate cinnamon and star
anise. Dry cinnamon and star anise in the
oven. Remove from oven and blend with
mortar and pestle until a smooth powder.
In a pot combine sweet potato, star anise
and cinnamon powder. Add butter and whisk
into a smooth puree.
F o r t h e M as t e r S t o c k :
750mL water
70mL light soy sauce
125mL Chinese cooking wine
50g yellow rock sugar
10g fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic
1 cardamom pod
1 cinnamon stick
5g (1\2 teaspoon) dried mandarin peel
1 whole clove
1 star anise
1/2 teaspoon Sichuan pepper
1/2 teaspoon licorice root
1/2 teaspoon dried chilli
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
Sauce:
After braising lamb neck, pass master stock
through a fine chinios and add zest of the
2 navel oranges. Bring to the boil then simmer
for 5 minutes to infuse flavour. Pass through
chinois again. Add orange segments and set
aside for serving.
METHOD:
Chinese Master Stock:
Handy hint - When making the master stock,
bring to the boil then immediately reduce
the heat to simmer. Do not allow it to boil
continuously.
TO SERVE:
-
1
2
Put all ingredients in a large stockpot
and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for
10 to 15 minutes to allow the spices to
infuse. Allow the stock to cool completely
before passing through a chinios. Pour into
a clean container. Place the stock in the
fridge overnight to intensify the flavors.
Refrigerate or freeze until required.
–
3
4
5
6
37
–
Place lamb neck in oven at 200 degrees
for 5 minutes to reheat.
In the centre of a serving bowl place a
quenelle of sweet potato puree.
Remove lamb neck from oven and place
on top of sweet potato.
Take orange segments from master stock
and place around lamb.
Pour the remaining master stock over
the lamb.
Serve with fresh coriander.
–
B I T E D
S I Z E D
–
BITE
SIZED
The Millard Reaction
When temperatures reach 150ºC or higher proteins (amino acids) and
carbohydrates (sugars) caramelize into intense flavours and aromas
and enhance the appearance of red meat. This browning process is
named for the French chemist Louis-Camille Maillard who discovered
the process at the start of the 20th century. The Maillard reaction
is similar to the process of caramelisation, where carbohydrates,
just like sugar, turn brown when heated.
Waste not wasted
Feedlots across the country that produce grain fed beef, such as
‘Peechelba’ in Victoria are finding ways to recycle waste and minimise
their environmental impact. ‘Peechelba’, run by Gina Lincoln, sells
certified organic manure produced by cattle on the property to
landscape gardeners, viticulturalists and local gardeners looking
for improved soil structure.
–
38
–
–
B I T E D
S I Z E D
–
K ey difference in cat tle feeding regimes
Feed Sources Grass Feed
Grain stubble
after harvesting
Combination of ingredients to
meet nutrient requirements
grain feed
Native grasses
and shurbs
Roughage
Hay
Silage
(fermented grass)
Fat
Irrigated
and
fertilised
pastures
Protein
Legume based
pastures
Grain
Proportion of time spent on grain
Days on Grass
Days on Grain
50-100 days
120-200 days
200+ days
–
39
–
–
B I T E D
S I Z E D
–
M O MENTARY
MARK
BEST
Marque Restaurant, Surry Hills NSW
Mark Best’s nose to tail beef degustation
6:05pm
14/10/2010
Marque Restaurant and
Meat & Livestock Australia
partnered during the recent
Sydney International Food
Festival to celebrate beef.
Guests were guided by the
team at the three-hatted
Restaurant through a sensory
journey of underrated beefs
cuts, experiencing a myriad
of concepts, colours,
temperature and textures.
Mark Best’s skill highlighted
the versatility of beef in
elegant and mind bending
dishes and his philosophical
approach to food, being to use
every-thing, emphasised the
relevance of carcase utilisation
to the sustainability of meat.
image by stevebrownphotography.com
–
40
–
–
B I T E D
S I Z E D
–
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Menu from
the evening
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Silken Tendon with Spring Beans,
Peas and Tarragon Curd
Vinea Marson, Nebbiolo, 2008
Heathcote, Vic.
Silverside Jerky
Bone Marrow with White Nectarine
& Fennel
Honeycomb Tripe with Vadouvan,
Garlic Potato
Sanches Romate, ‘Don Jose’
Oloroso Jerez, Spain
Beef Jelly with Sorrel & Avruga
The Story, Arneis, 2010,
King Valley, Vic.
Pickled Tongue with Asparagus
& Black Radish
Fontaleoni, Vernaciadi San
Giminano, 2009, Tuscany, Italy
Ranger Valley Hanger Steak with
Ash & Onions
La Pleiade, Shiraz, 2008
Heathcote, Vic.
Beef Tartar with Oyster
& Watercress
Willow Creek, Pinot Noir,
2007 Mornington Peninsular,
Vic.
48 Months aged Comte with Pearl
Barley, Rocket & Tea Jam
Pomona, Ice Cyder, Orange,
N.S.W
Coconut Marrow
BBQ Ox Heart with Ox Heart
Tomato & Brown Sauce
Rosine, Syrah,
2008, Rhone Valley, France
Hay with milk and chickweed
Barn Perfume
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
–
41
–
–
Thought of as food our
grandparents ate, offals
(otherwise known as fancy
meats) are back. We can thank
food movements such as headto-tail dining and paddockto-plate for getting these
soft, rich, spongy tentacled
delights off the chopping room
floor and back onto our plates.
Think crispy tripe; dried fried
in smoky and spicy flavours
or calf’s liver in white wine
and garlic served on fried
potatoes. With doilies and
grandpa shoes back in fashion,
it’s only fitting theses little
babies are having their day in
the sunshine too.
E X T R A S
–
Move over Locavores,
Hyperlocal is the new
‘it’ kid. Think restaurant
gardens, inner-city foraging,
in-house smoking and curing
DIY butchering. With Chef’s
Special Butchery Masterclasses
and MLA’s beef, lamb and goat
cutting guide DVD (available
in March) at your finger tips,
if you haven’t already grabbed
yourself a beef hindquarter
to break down you’re slow
off the mark.
Hyperlocal
produce
Regional
and ethnic
cuisines
Offals- The
other meat
The Chef’s Guide to What’s Hot in 2011
foods provide a familiar
format for mainstream
consumers to explore bold
new flavours. They also allow
established chefs to take
their “brand” to the masses
without losing credibility
in the process. For sandwich
inspiration think anything
from a New York deli, Sloppy
Joes, salted brisket bagel
from Beigel Bakery, London or
the famous Po
Boys of Bourbon Street.
the following eleven trends are the
Butchers are the
new rock stars
Gourmet burgers
and sandwiches
These quintessential comfort
Want Chinese? Then you
had better know your east
from your west, north and
south. Think Shanghai style,
Szechuan, Peking and Cantonese
to name a few. Continuing the
Asian theme, spicy Korean food
takes a well earned place
at the table thanks to their
BBQ obsession, hotpots and
addictive pickled cabbage.
Vietnamese cuisine is finally
getting the recognition
it deserves (thank you Luke
Nguyen) and for worshippers of
all things meat related; South
American cuisine is king.
World street food
inspired menus
These tasty morsels are
standard fare in their
countries of origin. Here they
inspire everything
from small plates to canapés
and charcuterie. Watch
breakfast and lunch menus for
an explosion of Asian flavour
notes and carriers
or treat your tastebuds to the
samba while chowing down on
Latin American delicacies.
–
42
–
Wielding a meat cleaver has
never been so revered. This
year butchers will emerged
as the new rock stars of
the culinary world. Growing
interest in butchering has
sprouted classes across the
country. Weekend warriors can
learn to break down a carcase
while rubbing shoulders with
the Masters. After years and
years of closed doors, butcher
shops are starting to open
up and in-house butchery is
on the rise at restaurants.
Rock stars or not, they’ve got
chops.
–
PG rated food for those
mini food connoisseurs.
Frozen nuggets and pizzas
don’t cut it anymore. The
recent wave of mini food
critics want fresh, they want
flavour and they want
to feel included.
Kid’s menus
E X T R A S
–
Just like kids in a
candy store we’re spoilt
for choice when it comes
to the variety and quality
of red meat available in
Australia, and don’t we know
it! Consumers continue to
ask about how their food is
produced and they’re looking
for the scoop direct from the
farmer. Branded meats provide
exactly that, the romance of
the farm at retail and on the
restaurant menu.
Branded meats
Flat iron steak, hanger steak,
beef brisket, lamb ribs – just
some of the pieces of the
puzzle that make up a carcase.
So many cuts to choose from,
so much flavour, so many
creative possibilities – that’s
why they are the Masterpieces.
Do it yourself or ask your
wholesaler or butcher to show
off his knife skills.
Newly fabricated
cuts of meat& non-loin
cuts of meat
2011 food frontiers according to Australia’s only red meat journal, Chef’s Special Magazine:
Degustation menus
Gourmet pub food
The rise of micro brews and
boutique beer culture signals
the era of the gastro-pub.
Think back to basics with a
twist. Look for modern takes
on flavoursome dishes. Goat
meat comes to mind. Don’t
forget to leave room
for dessert.
Want a sure-fire way to dodge
food envy: order everything.
Although with the average
number of dishes on a menu
around the 27 mark, this
advice is not for the faint
hearted. The alternative is
selecting one of the numerous
degustation menus popping
up in restaurants and pubs
around the country celebrating
flavours, seasons and the
chef’s culinary expertise.
A fantastic way for chefs
to take their customers
on a sensory journey. The
Australian public are loving
it.
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42
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P.S. Forget the hills of Tuscany, the
French Alps or the magical wells of
Fiji, our in-house ‘Sommelier’ is
touting Aussie tap water as the drink
du jour for 2011.
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N OT E S
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N O.
N O.
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T H I S J O U R N A L