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Shining Showcase
Bring your special glassware, china figures, or other prized collectibles out of the closet and
into the light. This easy-to-build project showcases their beauty and your craftsmanship.
Here’s a visually highimpact piece of furniture
that you can build for only
a moderate investment of
time and materials. Its
three glass-insert shelves
let light from a concealed
halogen fixture stream
from top to bottom. To
discover how to beef up
frame corners on this
project and others, see the
mitered half-lap joinery
article on page 9. This
joint hides the frames’
exposed end grain within
the project’s legs.
DP-00272
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003
Page 1 of 13
1a LEG DETAIL (Top view shown)
1 LEG (Right rear shown)
fi" notch fi" deep (right rear leg only)
Outside faces
2‹"
B
(Light area)
Center of
#20 biscuit slot
12"
‡"
1fi"
#20
biscuit
¤"
fi"
fi"
fi" grooves
‹" deep in
right rear leg
only
A
1‹"
1"
1fi"
C
fi" notch fi" deep in top and
bottom of right rear leg only
‹" hole
›" deep
7"
‡"
1"
‹" holes
›" deep
1b LEG TAPER DETAIL
7"
54"
A
1fi"
fi" to center
of biscuit slot
1fi"
A
2"
Center of
#20 biscuit slot
fi" to
center of
biscuit slot
1‹"
4fi"
fi" notch fi" deep
(right rear leg only)
Page 2 of 13
TM
Laminate four legs
1 Cut eight ‡×1fl×55" blanks for
laminating the legs (A). To form a
channel to conceal the light
fixture’s cord, install a dado blade
in your tablesaw, and plow a
centered fi" groove ‹" deep in
two of the pieces, where shown
on Drawing 1a.
2 Glue and clamp four pairs of
laminations, keeping the ends
and edges flush. The grooved pair
forms the right rear leg. Remove
any excess glue, and joint „" off
one edge of each lamination.
Plane the opposite edges to form
four 1fi×1fi" legs. Trim the legs
to the length listed in the
Materials List.
3 Mark the tops of the legs with
their final orientations. Indicate
the face to be drilled for shelf
supports. Position the leg with
the centered cord channel at the
right rear, where shown on
Drawing 2. Referring to
Drawing 1, lay out the shelfsupport hole centers on the right
rear leg.
4 To drill the legs’ shelf-support
holes, chuck a ‹" bit in your drill
press. Attach a 5'-long fence ‡"
back from the bit’s center, with
about 1' of the fence extending to
the right of the bit. Drill the ›"deep holes, as shown in Photo A.
5 Adjust your biscuit joiner’s
fence to center a slot fi" from the
legs’ outside faces, and cut slots for
#20 biscuits, where dimensioned
on Drawing 1.
6 To provide electric cord
access to the hole in the right rear
leg, make a V-block from 2×4
scrap. With a fi" straight bit in
your table-mounted router, and a
stopblock clamped to the fence,
form a fi"-long notch in the leg’s
top and bottom inside corners,
where shown on Drawings 1
and 1a and as shown in Photo B.
Cut the notches in steps, first
positioning the bit to cut ¤" into
the leg’s corner, and then raising
the bit in ¤" increments until the
notches are complete.
A
Fence
Hole centers
marked on
masking tape
Stopblock
Mark the right-rear leg shelf-support hole centers on
masking tape. Align each mark with the bit, and position a
stopblock. Drill all four legs at each stopblock position.
7 Mark the bottom tapers on
each leg’s two inside faces, where
shown on Drawing 1b. Bandsaw
and sand to the lines. To ensure
uniform tapers, see the Shop Tip
on page 4. Sand the legs to 220
grit.
tabletop fasteners in the side caps
(E), where shown on Drawing 2.
Form the rails and caps
1 Cut the rails (B, D) and caps
(C, E) to size. To ensure that the
rails and caps are identical
lengths, use a stopblock clamped
to an auxiliary miter-gauge
extension.
2 Adjust your biscuit joiner to
center a slot in the thickness of
the rails. Then plunge slots for
#20 biscuits in the rail ends,
centered in their width.
3 Using a fairing stick, draw arcs
on the rails (B, D), where shown
on Drawing 2. Saw and sand
them to shape.
4 Cut ¤" grooves ‹" deep for the
5 Finish-sand the rails and caps.
Mark the locations of the top
edges of the rails (B, D) on the
legs (A), where shown on
Drawing 2. Glue, biscuit, and
clamp the front and back rails (B)
between the front and back legs.
Then join the front and back
leg/rail assemblies (A/B) together
by gluing and clamping the side
rails (D) in place. Glue and clamp
the rail caps (C, E) to the rails.
The caps’ front edges are flush
with the legs’ outside faces.
Finally, ease the corners of the
completed assembly with a
sanding block.
Note: Before cutting the grooves,
check the offset of your tabletop
fasteners. It may be different from the
Á" dimension shown on the drawing.
Page 3 of 13
TM
Stopblock
B
V-block
With the right rear leg cradled in a V-block, rout the top and
bottom fi"-long notches in progressive ¤" increments. Clamp
a stopblock to the fence to control the depth.
SHOP TIP
Sand perfect leg tapers quickly with a simple
scrapwood jig
To sand uniform tapers on all four legs (A), tack together the
scrapwood jig shown in the drawing, below. Leave the
nailheads protruding so you can easily disassemble the jig and
return the parts to your scrap bin. Clamp the jig to your discor belt-sander table ¤" from the face of the sanding disc. Slide
each leg along the fence, as shown in the photo, right, until its
end contacts the stop.
Sanding disc
¤"
‡ x 6 x 24"
plywood base
1¤"
2Œ"
‡ x 2 x 16" fence
‡ x 2 x 6" stop
Page 4 of 13
TM
2 EXPLODED VIEW
18‹"
22‹"
F
›" chamfer
#8 x fi"
panhead screw
Halogen light
fixture
E Tabletop fasteners
C
¤" groove ‹" deep Á" from top edge
B
1‹" ‡"
D
E
D
1"
13"
A
#8 x fi"
panhead screw
C
B
A
1"
17"
‹ x 10› x 17Á" glass
(3 needed)
1fi"
A
A
I
H
H
I
54"
¤" chamfers
G
20‹"
‹" shelf supports
E
‹" shelf
support
FRONT
D
C
B
D
Tabletop
fastener
Light cord
E
¤" groove ‹" deep
Á" from top edge
C
#20 biscuit
3"
6"
B
3 BOTTOM
#20 biscuit
20‹"
1‡"
1‡"
16‡"
A
1‡"
12‡"
16‹"
G
A
1‡"
¤" gaps between
leg A and bottom G
¤" chamfer along
top and bottom edges
Page 5 of 13
TM
C
D
Grommet
Back housing
Disconnect the cord from the internal wiring by
removing the wire nuts. Mark the wires for
proper reassembly.
Grasp and squeeze the cord grommet with pliers
to release the cord from the housing. Pull the cord
out of the housing, and remove the grommet.
deep, centered on the lower face
of each frame side (I), to accept
the shelf supports.
3 Rout ˇ" chamfers along the
outside lower edges of all the
frame parts.
4 Glue and clamp the frames
together, making sure they are
square and flat. With the glue dry,
finish-sand the frames.
Add the top and bottom
1 Edge-join oversize blanks for
the top (F) and bottom (G), and
then cut them to finished size. Cut
the corner notches in
2 Rout ›" chamfers on the top’s
lower edges, and ¤" chamfers on
the bottom’s upper and lower
edges,
where
shown
on
Drawings 2 and 3. Finish-sand
both parts.
Finish and assemble
1 Examine all the parts and
assemblies, and resand any areas
that need it. If you wish, apply a
stain, and let it dry. (We used ZAR
no. 116 Cherry.)
2 Apply the finish. (We brushed
on
two
coats
of
satin
polyurethane, sanding between
coats with 220-grit sandpaper.)
3 Remove the light fixture’s back
housing, and disconnect its 7fi'long cord, as shown in Photo C.
Then remove the cord from the
housing, as shown in Photo D.
Make three shelf frames
1 Cut the frame fronts and backs
(H) and frame sides (I) to the sizes
listed. Form the mitered half laps,
where shown on Drawing 4. For
complete instructions on forming
these joints, see page 9.
2 With the mitered half laps
formed, install a dado blade in
your tablesaw, and cut the ‹"
rabbets ‰" deep on parts H and I,
where shown on Drawings 4
and 4a. Then cut a ›" groove ¤"
Fish the cord up through the right
rear leg, leaving about 20"
extending from the bottom of the leg.
4 Clamp the top (F) and bottom
(G) in place, centered. Turn the
shelf upside down, position the
tabletop fasteners, drill pilot
holes, and drive the screws.
5 Replace the grommet on the
cord, and reinstall it in the
housing. Drill pilot holes, and
screw the back housing to the top
(F), leaving ¤" between the
housing and the front cap (C).
Reconnect the wires, and
assemble the light fixture.
6 Have ‹" glass cut to fit the
rabbeted openings in the frames.
For a finished look, we had pencil
edges ground on our glass inserts.
Insert the shelf supports, and
install the shelves. ¿
Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
Project design: Jeff Mertz
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
Page 6 of 13
TM
4 SHELF FRAME
20"
Mitered
half laps
H
1fi"
‹" rabbets
‰" deep
Mitered
half laps
I
‡"
H
1fi"
›" groove
¤" deep, centered
12Í"
Mitered
half laps
I
›" groove ¤" deep, centered
ˇ" chamfer
4a FRAME DETAIL
H I
‹" rabbet
‰" deep
›" groove ¤" deep,
centered, on part I
ˇ" chamfer
1fi"
Page 7 of 13
TM
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the
instructions.
Materials List
Carcases
A*
legs
B
FINISHED SIZE
W
L
Matl.
Qty*.
1fi"
1fi"
54"
LC
4
front and back rails
‡"
3"
17"
C
4
C
front and back caps
‡"
1‹"
17"
C
4
D
side rails
‡"
3"
13"
C
4
E
side caps
‡"
1‹"
13"
C
4
F*
top
‡"
18‹"
22‹"
EC
1
G*
bottom
‡"
16‹"
20‹"
EC
1
H
frame fronts and backs
‡"
1fi"
20"
C
6
I
frame sides
‡"
1fi"
12Í"
C
6
T
Cutting Diagram
B
B
A
Materials key: LC–laminated
cherry, C–cherry, EC–edge-joined
cherry.
Supplies: #20 biscuits (16), #8¥fi"
panhead screws (14), ‹" glass.
Bits and blades: Stack dado set,
fi" straight router bit, chamfer router bit.
Buying Guide
Hardware. Spoon-style shelf
supports no. 27I11, $2.99 for a bag of
25 (1 bag); tabletop fasteners no.
27N10, $1.99 for a bag of 10 (2
bags). Visit your local Woodcraft
store, call 800/225-1153, or go to
www.woodcraft.com.
Light fixture. Hampton Bay
halogen accent light kit no. 233778, at
your local Home Depot. Similar fixtures
available at other home centers and
hardware stores and from woodworking
supply catalogs.
B
B
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)
E
E
A
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)
C
D
F
D
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)
D
D
G
F
G
G
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.)
H
H
C
H
F
I
I
The purchase of these plans does not
transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in
the plans, the design or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale not offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
‡ x 3fi x 72" Cherry (2 bd. ft.)
Page 8 of 13
TM
Mitered Half Laps
Team up a half lap with a basic miter, and you instantly create a
handsome joint that also provides plenty of strength.
Miters look great, but in many
applications they need
reinforcement from wood splines or
metal fasteners for strength. But as
you can see in the photos right,
there’s a better way to add beef to a
miter: by combining it with a half
lap. Why’s that? Because of the
joint’s ample face-grain gluing
surfaces.
To create this reliable joint,
you’ll need a tablesaw equipped
with a dado set that produces flat,
smooth cuts. You’ll also need a
scrapwood stop that attaches to
your rip fence, an accurate miter
gauge equipped with an auxiliary
fence, and a simple plastic guard
that we’ll tell you how to make.
To get started, use a straight
piece of solid wood or plywood to
make the stop for your tablesaw’s
rip fence. Cut the stop about 12"
long, and narrower than the height
of your rip fence. Clamp it to the
rip fence with the front end slightly
back from the dado blade.
Check your miter gauge for
accuracy at both 45° settings, and
then add an auxiliary miter-gauge
fence that’s narrower than the
height of your rip fence. Make it
more reliable by adding selfadhesive, 120-grit sandpaper to its
face to keep the workpiece from
slipping. Be sure to place the
sandpaper away from the business
end of the fence to prevent the
abrasives from contacting the dado
set and making it dull.
Some of the cuts you’ll make
tend to throw chips straight up in
the air. That’s why we put together
a safety guard from scraps we had
in the shop.
Flip over
A mitered half-lap joint consists of two parts like the ones
shown here. Just flip the piece at right, and the mating miters
form the completed joint, inset. We placed the exposed end
grain at the top and bottom of the frame.
To make the guard, attach a piece
of ¤×8×16" acrylic to a ‡×2×30"
board with 1" panhead screws. The
dimensions aren’t critical; size your
guard so that it extends past the
dado set when you cut.
Page 9 of 13
TM
8 EASY STEPS TO MITERED HALF LAPS
tight miter joint begins with
1yourAprecise
equipment. Make sure
tablesaw table sits square
with the blade. Then set your miter
gauge to a 90º setting, or use this
trick. Insert tight-fitting ‡" scrap
in the right miter-gauge slot, and
place your miter gauge in the left
slot. Slide an accurate 45° angle
against the scrap, and place a steel
rule against the miter gauge, left.
Then line up the angle, the rule,
and the miter gauge. To doublecheck the accuracy of your setup,
cut miters on two pieces of scrap,
hold them together at a right angle,
and check them with a reliable
square, right. They should fit with
no gaps.
a full-width dado set,
2the Install
and raise it to cut exactly half
thickness of your workpiece.
(If your dado set produces rough
surfaces, see issue 150 for our
dado set test.) Make test cuts on
scrap pieces of the same thickness
as your workpieces. Mate the two
pieces, and use a rule or other
straightedge to check for a flush
fit, as shown. Cut your stiles and
rails to finished length.
Page 10 of 13
TM
your safety guard and
3the Clamp
stop in place, as shown. Adjust
rip fence so that the distance
from the stop to an outside tooth
of your dado set equals the width
of your workpiece. Set your miter
gauge at 90°, and cut away the
underside of each rail at each end.
Make two or three passes, as
necessary. For the final pass, butt
the end of the rail against the stop.
Safety guard
Stop
120-grit sandpaper
Rail
Set your miter gauge at 45°
4facedown
as shown, and place a stile
against it. Align the
Stile
leading corner with an outside
tooth on the dado set. Adjust
your rip fence so that the
opposite corner of the stile
contacts the stop. Lock the fence
in place, and leave it there for
the remaining cuts. Make the
needed passes to form a mitered
recess on the underside of the stile.
Stile
Page 11 of 13
TM
Place your rail on the tablesaw
5against
with its inside corner butted
the stop. Miter-cut this
half lap with just one pass. The
inside corner drops away as you
complete the cut.
Rail
swing your miter gauge
6againNow,
to the opposite 45° setting,
using the procedures from
Step 1. (Shop tip: Buy extra miter
gauges so you can leave them set at
90° and both 45° settings.) Now,
butt the inside corner of the stile
against the stop, and cut each of the
remaining two stile ends, as shown.
Stile
Page 12 of 13
TM
Complete the cuts for your
7remaining
frame by mitering the
two rail ends, as
shown. Again, place the inside
corner of the workpiece against
the stop to line up each cut.
Rail
A type of glue with longer
8Extend,
open time, such as Titebond
comes in handy when you
assemble mitered half-laps. Lay
the frame on a pair of bar clamps,
and make them snug. Now, add a
small clamp vertically at each joint
to apply face-to-face pressure.
Finally, add two bar clamps on top
of the frame and perpendicular to
the first pair. (We’ve left one off
for clarity.) ¿
Page 13 of 13
TM
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