1G DSM FMIC Installation
Transcription
1G DSM FMIC Installation
1G DSM FMIC Installation *****Always use proper safety equipment when using power tools on this install, also remember that any metal you cut will be sharp, be sure to recycle all fluids that may come out of your vehicle***** 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: 6: 7: 8: 9: 10: 11: 12: remove front bumper cover, the metal bumper beam and the stock plastic radiator ducting; this plastic ducting will be thrown away. Remove the power steering cooler—this is the long tubular loop that is in front of the radiator and A/C core With the power steering cooler removed, locate the rubber hose that was used to connect the power steering cooler to the power steering tank. This hose can be used to connect the power steering tank to the existing open power steering line. This will complete the power steering circuit. Fig 01 , 02 Now you can remove the stock intercooler and all the piping, this should leave you with the turbo flange and the throttle body flange exposed. Remove the stock radiator overflow tank; this can be used again later if desired. Remove the driver side fan on the radiator. Now is the time to enlarge the “D” shaped holes on each side of the radiator, this has been done with as little as a pair of tin snips and a hammer but we advise the following: Use a reciprocating saw and cut slits out to the core support and in towards the radiator. Be careful not to cut the wiring harness on the passenger side, or in to the side of the radiator. We recommend cutting the tie-wrap that holds the wiring harness so it can be moved out of the way and not damaged. Now that the slits are cut, you can use a long bar, piece of tubing, or a long socket extension, and a hammer to bend over the flaps that you just made with the reciprocating saw. The bigger these holes are, the easier the piping will install. Please see fig 04 , 04 Now the piping may be installed, remember to use soap and water to aid in getting the couplers over the pipes. We recommend installing the clamps with the couplers at the same time. Do not tighten the couplers until the end of the install. First install the 2.5” 90 degree pipe on the driver side, just lay it in the hole with one end sticking out to the IC , Fig 6 Fig 7 Now install the 2.5” to 2” 90 degree pipe, the 2” end faces straight up and will connect to the “J” pipe. Fig 8 , Fig 9 Install the “J” pipe on the turbo, a ball end allen wrench may be needed to tighten the bolts to the turbo. Fig 10 – 12. If you have a 50trim or 20g please see fig 31 , on these turbos , the 2 to 2.5 90deg pipe comes off the turbo , then it goes into the 5deg cut and weld pipe , and then into the 90deg pipe going through the core support. We do the piping this way as it is modular meaning that all it takes to go from a 16G to a t3t4 is 1 pipe. Now install the long 45 degree pipe with the short end through the enlarged hole to the intercooler, just lay this pipe in the hole for now. 13: 14: 15: 16: 17: 18: 19: 20: 21: 22: 23: 24: 25: 26: Install the throttle body pipe to the throttle body, if you do not have a new gasket, silicone may be used. The throttle body flange is thinner than stock, use some spacers or shorter bolts to get it to fit the manifold well. Fig 13 , 14 Now you can attach the long 45 degree pipe to the throttle body pipe Fig 15 You should now have the piping sticking out the front of the car ready to attach to the intercooler. Fig 16 -18 Install the couplers on to the end of these pipes and tighten the clamps, make sure these clamps are tight as they are not accessible without removing the bumper cover. Fig 18 - 19 Install the intercooler into the pipes , the intercooler should almost touch the A/C line on the driver side, there should be about ¼” clearance to the 180 degree A/C line on the driver side. Fig 21 for 6.5 and 7” units , or Fig 22- 24 for 10.5” units. Now put the metal crash beam back on the car and over the intercooler, with this on the bolted down to the car, the intercooler can be centered on the beam and then use the 2 self drilling screws to attach the IC to the bumper beam. We recommend a long ¼” extension with a socket on one end, and the other end in a ½” drill. These 2 bolts will attach the IC securely to the car. *** If you have a 10.5” Intercooler , the crash beam will not fit , you must cut out the back side of the crash beam with a torch for IC fitment. Also on the 10.5” units , the IC will hang from the core support. We include 2 straps to hang it with , and they are trim to fit. Fig 22 - 25 Tighten all the clamps Install the blow off valve . The turbo wastegate hose will be attached to the blow off valve line (using some vacuum line and a “T”—Not supplied) The blow off valve should be plumbed in to the intake tube with the stock recirculating hose, or a small rubber radiator hose (Not supplied) We recommend an aftermarket overflow can, just for cosmetics, but the stock overflow tank can be zip tied in at an angle Install the front bumper cover and any factory parts you took off the vehicle. If you live in a warm climate or drive your car regularly in stop and go traffic or with the A/C on, we recommend installing a 10” thin line fan. Use the factory resistor in the old fan and just connect the new fan to the 2 wires that went to the old fans motor. You are now finished. Congratulations, you will find this upgrade to be well worth it. You will find big gains in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears. After a hard run down the track, feel the hot and cold side of the intercooler, there will be a substantial temperature difference. For customer service, please email us at jrprp11@netzero.com or call 360-263-3748 We appreciate your business, if you ever upgrade your turbo, we have IC’s that will support over 800hp for the DSM. Fig 1 Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Fig 6 Fig 7 Fig 8 Fig 9 Fig 10 Fig 11 Fig 12 Fig 13 Fig 14 Fig 15 Fig 16 Fig 17 Fig 18 Fig 19 Fig 20 Fig 21 Fig 22 Fig 23 Fig 24 Fig 25 Fig 26 Fig 27 Fig 28 Fig 29 Fig 30 Fig 31 Fig 32