Prague Fringe Festival

Transcription

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
PRAGUE
April - May 2007
The Fringe
Expand your horizons
with this quirky festival
Blossom & Beer
Springtime, a wonderful
time to explore Prague’s
parks and gardens
N°38 - 100 Kč
www.inyourpocket.com
www.ukonvice.cz
beer restaurant
Staroměstské nám. 26
110 00 Praha 1
tel.: +420 224 225 293
www.oceanscorner.cz
The Roman and Gothic vaults shelter
U Zlaté
konvice
In the 14th century cellars you can enjoy the taste
of various kinds of grilled meat and old Czech dishes.
Then wash it all down with a glass of Pilsner beer
or a glass of high-quality Moravian wine.
Exquisite sea lagoon
Enjoy the tempting variety
of culinary delights in our stylish
yet casual Brasserie.
Brasserie Praha
Opening hours
Breakfast: 6.30 a.m. - 11.00 a.m.
Lunch and Dinner: 12.00 a.m. - 11.00 p.m.
Reservations: 222 881 212
fish restaurant
Staroměstské nám. 26
110 00 Praha 1
tel.: +420 221 632 252
Prague Marriott Hotel
V Celnici 8, Prague 1
www.marriottprague.com
OCEANS’ CORNER - a restaurant, which will provide
a genuine treat for all those who love eating all kinds of sea
foods and also admire large aquariums.
CONTENTS
5
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
The Basics
8
Everything you need to know
Culture & Events
10
Prague Fringe, Prague Spring and Wim Wenders
Top 10... Parks & Gardens
18
It’s not just an urban jungle out there
Where to stay
20
Whatever your budget or needs
Dining & Nightlife
32
Guláš to gourmet and anything in between
The Czech menu
40
Cafés & Tea houses
It’s not all about the beer...
46
Nightlife
... well, maybe it is.
48
Food & Drink around town
Food & Drink in Malá Strana & The Castle 58
Food & Drink in Vinohrady & Žižkov
62
Food & Drink in Letná & Holešovice
67
Food & Drink in Smíchov
69
Adult entertainment
72
Khamoro Roma Festival
28 May - 2 June
Sightseeing
Essential sights
The castle, the bridge, the clock
76
Jewish Prague
80
Kafka, Josefov, synagogues and cemeteries
Getting around
82
Planes, trains and automobiles
Mail & Phones
87
How to send a gift or just call home
Directory
Shopping
Business
Healthcare & Sports
88
90
92
Maps & Index
Street index
Country map
City centre map
City map
Index
93
93
95
96-97
98
The Voice and The Verse: at the Fringe
27 May - 3 June
April - May 2007
6
FOREWORD
Prague enjoyed an early spring with some
unseasonable March madness followed swiftly
by a dose of snow. April and May however are
true spring months with the opening of parks and
gardens, the welcome return of beer gardens, and
the emergence of countless pavement terraces.
For a complete lowdown on where to enjoy the
greenery, see our inaugural Top 10 list of Parks &
Gardens on page 18. May Day (1 May) should be
spent among the beautiful blossoms on Petřín Hill.
Not just a season, Prague Spring is a renowned
international classical music festival where the
already high standards set by the likes of Mozart
and Smetana long ago are honoured with a season
of superlative concerts. Events and cultural listing
begin on page 10. The Prague Fringe Festival
is a mere youngster compared to Edinburgh, but,
as A. A. Milne once wrote, “now we are six”. The
incomparable sixth year of mayhem begins at the
end of May and just a few of the highlights can be
seen on page 17.
The landmark TV Tower on the border of Vinohrady
and Žižkov (see page 81) celebrates its 15th
birthday this year. For superb vistas over the
immaculately laid out courtyards of residential
Prague, hop in a lift and enjoy the view and the
vertigo… An added bonus would be drinks or dinner
Cover story
Valdštejnský palác or Wallenstein
Palace sits prettily below the
castle and in the middle of an
idyllic oasis with a lake, peacocks,
owls and beautiful manicured
lawns and hedges in Malá Strana.
The Wallenstein Gardens are
one of our Top 10... Parks &
Gardens. Discover Prague’s
green spaces on page 18.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Prague In Your Pocket
V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00
Czech Republic
tel. +420 224 94 76 01
fax +420 224 94 86 51
prague@inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1213-2128
© PIYP s.r.o.
Printed by Tisk Horák,
Ústí nad Labem
Published six times per year
16,000 copies
Wel come to th e ci t y
that will amaze you with
its peerless genius loci,
fascinating architecture,
abundant cultural and social
li fe and its unparalleled
atmosphere. These are
not any pompous words
of a pretentious mayor but
evaluations of the visitors
wh o have seen Prague
before you. Thanks to this fact our metropolis belongs
among the most visited ones in Europe.
Enjoy your stay in a historic jewel hidden in the heart of
Europe and at the same time in a modern and dynamically
developing city. I am convinced that you will appreciate this
unique symbiosis just like all your predecessors.
Welcome to Prague!
Pavel Bém
Mayor of the City of Prague
during the full moon (2 April & 2 May). Another
anniversary Prague is proud to celebrate is the end
of WWII on 8 May: a convoy of American jeeps with
full-regalia-clad occupants blaze their patriotic way
around Wenceslas Square and the city.
Easter comes to Prague with an abundance of
stalls opening on the central squares from 24 Mar
- 15 Apr where you can buy the usual knickknacks
and beautifully hand-painted Easter eggs.
The Khamoro Festival, a fantastically diverse
World Roma Festival runs 28 May - 2 June. See
www.khamoro.cz for programme listings.
As ever, any rants, errors or praise should be
emailed to prague@inyourpocket.com and don’t
forget to plan ahead for your holidays with our
online Click & Buy service and get any In Your
Pocket title mailed direct to your door.
Editorial
Editor Wendy Wrangham
Contributors Wendy Wrangham,
Jeroen van Marle
Researcher Štěpán Sedláček
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle,
Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham,
Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila,
Ivana Ratajová
Cover: Valdštejnský palác
© iStockphoto, photomorgana
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Michal Jareš
Sales & Circulation Manager
Ivana Ratajová
ivana@inyourpocket.com
Publisher Craig Turp
A word from our Mayor
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o.
2000-2007. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
8
BASICS
BASICS
Arriving in Prague
Market values
Need some direction?
CZ: A brief history
By plane
Prague’s airport is 20km from the city centre. A taxi to
the town centre has just risen to around 600Kč even if you
call a company to pick you up rather than take one from
outside the terminal - reputable AAA have representatives in the arrivals hall now. Alternatively, use the ČEDAZ
minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) that
runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí
Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece
of baggage, children under 10 free) and can be bought
from the driver or from the booth in the arrival terminal.
For an extra fee, ČEDAZ can also pick you up or drop you
off at your hotel.
The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119
(2-8 times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at
least one wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between
the airport and the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green)
in about 20 minutes. From Dejvická it is just five stops to
Muzeum in the centre of town. Bus N°100 whisks you to
Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) from the airport in 13 minutes.
There is a new Airport Express (AE) bus from Holešovice
which runs every half an hour, whizzing you across the city in
half an hour, whether you are arriving or departing. Special
fares apply to this bus, tickets can only be bought from
the driver and do not allow any transfers or other forms of
transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč and luggage
is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 & 21:45,
from the airport 04:40 & 21:10.
A 20Kč transport ticket (plus a 10Kč one for big bags)
will get you all the way into town or to the airport on all
public transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can
be bought at the friendly transport information desk in
both arrival halls (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coinoperated machine at the airport bus stop, but not from
the driver. You need to validate the ticket (once for the
whole trip) in the machines on board the bus.
Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4
million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with
the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants,
shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which
accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries.
There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn’t
close and costs 60Kč per item per day.
How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy
list to see where the buck stops.
Travel Information Centre I-5, MMuzeum, tel.
4th Century
By train
Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní
nádraží (tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in
the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until
you exit its underground nightmare. There is a tourist
office (open 09:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in
the centre of the lower hall of the two levels. Currency exchange offices abound, but for a better deal, use the ATM
on the far left of the lower hall. Left luggage (úschova)
requirements are filled by coin-operated lockers (10Kč
/24hrs) and a guarded luggage depository opposite
(closed for 30 minutes from 05:30, 12:00 and 17:30).
Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to Muzeum
or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. The other station,
Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is used by trains
on the main Berlin Vienna/Bratislava route. The small hall
holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sat,
Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 23:00).
It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. For multilingual
service, avoid the queues at the station counters and
buy your train ticket at Wasteels or at the ČR agency.
McDonald’s Big Mac
56Kč €2.00 $2.60 £1.40
Loaf of white bread
18Kč €0.60 $0.80 £0.40
Snickers bar
12Kč €0.40 $0.55 £0.30
Litre of vodka
140Kč €5.00 $6.50 £3.40
Bottle of local beer
(1/2 litre)
12Kč €0.40 $0.55 £0.30
20 Marlboros
66Kč €2.40 $3.00 £1.60
Public transport ticket 20Kč €0.70 $0.90 £0.50
Cinema ticket
160Kč €5.80 $7.50 £3.90
Dry-cleaning one men’s
shirt
55Kč €2.00 $2.55 £1.30
Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures
105Kč €3.80 $5.00 £2.55
Exchange rates: €1 - 28.30Kč, US$1 - 21.50Kč,
£1 - 41.30 Kč on 12.03.2007.
Public transport
Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is
efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro
lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need
the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that
the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Tickets,
valid for all means of transport, can be purchased from the
numerous vending machines at all metro stations, major
tram stops and news stands. You always need to validate
your ticket yourself by stamping it in the machines at
metro entrances and on trams. The most common ticket
is the 20Kč transfer ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes
(90 minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends
and public holidays). The 14Kč non-transfer ticket is
meant for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes,
or in the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from
the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest you
save yourself time by buying a handful of these on arrival.
If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the oneday pass (80Kč), a three-day pass (220Kč), a weekly
pass (280Kč) or a 15-day pass (320Kč). Children under
6 travel free; and tickets are half price up to 15 years old.
Large pieces of luggage (including rucksacks) cost an
extra 10Kč while dogs ride the rails for 20Kč. Fines for
no validated tickets are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay
1,000Kč later. The funicular railway and night tram
tickets are 20Kč. Trams trundle around town every few
minutes; useful lines are N°22 and 23 which run from the
centre up to the rear entrance of the castle, saving you
the uphill walk. The metro connects the two main train
stations and Florenc bus station to the centre and runs
up to just after midnight, when the night trams take
over, zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5)
every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at
each stop and is correct assuming of course that some
worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines. Beware
of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, especially
on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars. For more
information visit the excellent website with English and
German information on routes and schedules, at www.
dpp.cz, or call 222 62 37 77.
296 19 18 17, www.dpp.cz. All you ever wanted to
know about routes, tariffs, tickets, timetables, re-routings
and service disruptions, maps and general information
about Prague’s bus, tram and metro system from friendly,
multi-lingual folk. Apart from the airport offices, these
are found at the metro stations.QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.
Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo nám., open 07:00
- 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Anděl, open 07:00 - 18:00,
closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals 1 & 2, open
07:00 - 22:00.
Learning the language
Numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Days
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts
and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its
Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia).
6th Century
The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area.
7th Century
According to legend a princess named Libuše marries
a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She
prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks
of the Vltava.
10th Century
Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King
Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his
brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint
and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.
14th Century
jeden (m)/jedna (f)
dva (m)/dvě (f)
tři
čtyři
pět
Signs
šest
Open
sedm
Closed
osm
Entrance
devět
Exit
deset
Push
Pull
Arrival
pondělí
úterý
Departure
středa
čtvrtek No smoking
pátek
sobota Men’s toilets
neděle Ladies toilets
Basics
Yes
No
Please/you’re welcome
Thank you (very much)
Excuse me
Sorry
Hello
Goodbye
I would like...
Where is...
In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in
1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first
university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the
largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants.
15th Century
otevřeno
zavřeno
vchod
východ
tam
sem
příjezd (train)
přílet (plane)
odjezd (train)
odlet (plane)
zde nekuřte
zákaz kouření
páni/muži
dámy/ženy
ano
ne
prosím
děkuji
omluvte mě
promiňte
dobrý den
nashledanou
rád/ráda bych...
kde je...
Street Smarts
Ulice
street (ul.),
but not usually used in an address
Most
bridge
Náměstí square (nám.)
Schody
steps
Brány
gates
Nábřeží quay
On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt
at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and
Protestant movement that adopts his name.
16th Century
In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as
King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands
until 1918.
20th Century
28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of Germany and
Austria, the Empire dissolves into several national states
and, Czechoslovakia finally becomes an independent
republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president.
15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the
Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slovakia becomes an independent fascist state.
5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in
four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis
for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets.
Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Communist party takes power. The country will remain under
the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989.
Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alexander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with
a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners
and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are
brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops
on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion
21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself
alight on the steps of the National Museum.
19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people demand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square.
As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990
former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state.
31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslovakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and
the Czech Republic.
21st Century
National holidays
9 Apr Easter Monday
1 May Labour day
8 May Day of Liberation from Fascism (end of WWII)
Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos
and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises.
1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union.
1 Aug, 2004 A grenade is thrown at an Israeli casino
owner on Na Příkopě; 18 people are injured.
16 Mar, 2004 Tram N°22 derails on Karlovo nám. and
ploughs into a crowd at a tram stop, killing two people.
April - May 2007
9
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
Entertainment abounds in the city and our listings are by
no means comprehensive. Listen, look, explore and check
www.prague.tv for daily events.
Black Light Theatre
All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 31,
MMůstek, tel. 221 61 01 73, www.blacktheatre.cz.
Tickets 450Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.
Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel.
281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. Tickets
430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30.
Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.
cz. Tickets 400Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.
Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní
20, tel. 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec.cz. Tickets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30.
Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, MNárodní třída, tel. 221 08 52 76, www.blacktheatreprague.cz.
Tickets 440Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00.
Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43,
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 88 14. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets 700Kč.
Q Performances start at 21:30.
WOW Show I-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 31, MMůstek, tel.
777 08 39 44, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q
Performances start at 20:00.
Cinema
Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. 271 77 13 49, www.
kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov; tram N°9
to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč.
Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra,
tel. 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes an IMAX
theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at Galaxie,
Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1.
Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. 224
21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently the longest-running cinema in Prague.
Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na
Příkopě 22, tel. 257 18 12 12, www.palacecinemas.cz.
Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the only cinema
with English language versions of films other cinemas show
dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also at Letňany,
Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park Hostivař,
Švehlova 32.
Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel.
224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An ar thouse
cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies, plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets
100/50Kč.
Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl,
tel. 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. Another
cinema complex, this one has an European art house cinema
and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can eat and
drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon 109Kč.
Also at Village Cinemas Černý most.
Puppet theatre
Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. 222 32 45
65, www.riseloutek.cz.
Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. 222 23
17 02, www.minor.cz.
National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká
1, tel. 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz.
CULTURE & EVENTS
Concerts & Opera
Classical Music
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2. The beautiful
Date
April
2
3
3
building is home to some good classical music concerts.
1, 15, 22 & 29 Apr: Fenix Quartet
3, 10, 17 & 24 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana
Kosinová-Vachtová
4 - 9 Apr at 18:00 & 20:00: Easter Concerts
11 & 18 Apr: Intermezzo with Chopin & Liszt, Sára Bukowská
- piano
12, 19 & 26 Apr: Barocco, Vladimír Koval - tenor, Pavel
Vaněk - piano
13 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana Kosinová-Vachtová
- organ, Jan Berko - contratenor
14 & 28 Apr: The Best of Dvorak & Mozart, Liana Sass
- soprano, Sára Bukowská - piano
20 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Sára Bukowská - organ,
Ivo Michl - tenor
21 Apr: The Best of Dvorak & Mozart, Liana Sass - soprano,
Natalie Korotková - piano
25 Apr: Intermezzo with Chopin & Liszt, Zdenek Klauda
- piano
27 Apr: Baroque Organ Concert, Dana Kosinová-Vachtová
- organ, Oleg Korotkov - bassQ Performances start at 18:00
unless otherwise specified.
Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel.
222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. The stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the venue for many classical concerts. Q
Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč.
State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. 224 22 72
66, www.opera.cz. Operas are usually performed in the
original language, with Czech or English subtitles.Q Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00
- 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1150Kč.
Stavovské divadlo E-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224
22 85 03, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Where Mozart’s Don
Giovanni made its rapturous debut. Q Booking office open
10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč.
Theatre
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, tel.
233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz.
Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nam. Republiky 4, tel.
221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz.
Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. 222 72 15
31, www.divadloponec.cz.
Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. 222 22
20 41, www.laterna.cz.
National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel.
224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz.
The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická
41, tel. 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz.
Tickets
Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na
Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. A
Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222
89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99
99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26
30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. A
Time Event
English language theatre
Venue
19:30 Pražák Quartet: B. Krajný - Piano
RF
19:30 Prague Baroque Ensemble
RF
20:30 Vivaldi Orchestra Praga:
The Four Seasons
MH
4,13
20:30 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra.
W.A. Mozart - Requiem
MH
5,6
19:30 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:
J. Haydn
RF
6
19:00 Easter Concert: B.Martinů
ET
7
19:30 Coral San Miguel: V. Nikolova - Organ,
J.L. Lizarraga - Choirmaster
MW
7
20:00 Dvořák Symphony Orchestra:
B. Smetana
MH
9
17:00 Vivaldi Orchestra Praga:
The Four Seasons
MH
10
19:30 Czech Chamber Orchestra
RF
11, 13 20:00 Czech Collegium: M. Ravel, G. Bizet MH
12,13
A. Dvořák
RF
12
19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra:
L. Van Beethoven
MH
17
19:30 Pražák Quartet: J. Haydn
RF
17,18
19:30 Prague Symphony Orchestra:
Toru Takemitsu
MH
19
20:00 Chamber Orchestra Of Pardubice
RF
21
17:00 Chamber Philharmonie Bohemia:
W.A. Mozart
MH
21
19:30 Alexej Lubimov - Piano: F. Schubert,
L. Van Beethoven, J.L. Dusík
RF
22
17:00 Virtuosi Pragenses Orchestra:
W.A. Mozart
MH
23
W.A. Mozart
MH
24
W.A. Mozart - Requiem
RF
24
20:30 Beethoven Orchestra Praga: L. Van
Beethoven, J.S. Bach, J. Haydn, W.A. Mozart, A. Dvořák MH
25
17:30 Janáček Trio: A. Schnitke
RF
25
19:30 Czech National Symphony Orchestra:
A. Dvořák
RF
26
20:00 Bohemian String Orchestra: A.Vivaldi MH
27
17:00 Organ Concert
MH
27
20:00 Requiem - W.A. Mozart
MH
28
20:00 North Czech Philharmonic Orchestra:
Conductor - E. Hoetzl
RF
May
1,4,8,11,15,18,22,25,29
20:00 Orig. Music Theatre Prague: A. Dvořák VI
3,4
G. Mahler
RF
6
17:00 Philharmonic Orchestra Plzeň:
Honegger - Jeanne D’Arc Au Bucher RF
27
20:00 Philharmonic Orchestra Hradec Králové:
C. Orff - Carmina Burana
MH
Opera
April
3,13,21,24
17:00
Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of
Mozart Opera: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung
Aus Dem Serail, Le Nozze Di Figaro
ET
3
19:00 Opera 2007
SO
3
19:00 The Secret
NT
4,28
19:00 Madama Butterfly
SO
Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. 234
65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. The Švandovo
theatre has contemporary and classic plays with English
subtitles. The text is projected above the stage, so get
tickets for the back of the ground floor or on the balcony.
Find the theatre just across the river from the National
Theatre; tram N°9 to the Švandovo divadlo stop.
2 Apr: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya
4 Apr: Petr Sís’ Tibet Through The Red Box from The
Cakes and Puppets (for adults)
10 Apr: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore
12 Apr: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses
15 Apr: Moliére’s School for Wives
16 Apr: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore
17 Apr: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera
17 Apr: Petr Sís’ Tibet Through The Red Box by The
Cakes and Puppets (for adults)
18 Apr: Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream
19 Apr: František Langer’s Periphery
23 Apr: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera
23 Apr: Sir A.C. Doyle’s The Hound of Baskervilles by The
Cakes and Puppet s (for adults)
27 Apr: František Langer’s Periphery
28 Apr: Moliére’s School for Wives
29 Apr: The The Magnificent Seven by The Cakes and
Puppets (for adults)
2 May: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera
3 May: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya
4 May: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses
9 & 10 May: Pulcinella’s War, Commedia dellárte from
Antonio Fava
12 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dellárte from
Antonio Fava at 11:00
13 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dellárte from
Antonio Fava **Opening Night**
14 - 17 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dellárte
from Antonio Fava
17 May: Moliére’s School for Wives
18 May: Martin McDonagh’s The Lieutenant of Inishmore
21 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dellárte
from Antonio Fava
22 May: Václav Havel’s The Beggar’s Opera at 11:00
& 19:00
23 May: David Farr’s Elton John’s Glasses
24 May: František Langer’s Periphery at 11:00 &
19:00
25 May: Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya
27 May: Dulsori: Ritual Drummers from South Korea
28 May: Mariana Sadovska: To Sing To Remember
29 May: Sclavi: The Song of the Emigrant by Farm in
the Cave
30 May: Moliére’s School for Wives
31 May: Bombs, Money & Love, Commedia dellárte
from Antonio Fava
27 - 31 May: Farm in the Cave Festival 2007.
See website for details.
Performances begin at 19:00 unless stated otherwise.
April - May 2007
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
12
5,14
6,26
6
7,15
8,20
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
Nabucco
La Traviata
Tosca
Carmen
Aida
SO
SO
NT
SO
SO
English language theatre
Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. 221 71
61 11, fax 221 716 666, www.archatheatre.cz. Host
of the annual Alternativa Festival, Archa is known in some
quarters as the “alternative National Theatre” for Prague,
and while it is inherently a Czech venue, Archa is English
friendly, with subtitles and physical performances that
transcend language barriers. Their monthly programmes
gives a percentage score for English-speakers to decide
whether the performance is worth attending. Archa also
hosts some of the city’s quirkier musical offerings, such
as The White Stripes and Tiger Lillies.
1 Apr at 20:00
Understand: acrobatics, dance, physical theatre and live
music. 100% - no lang. barrier
3 Apr at 17:30
Tarantula Passionata: traditional dance and music from
S. Italy. 100% - no lang. barrier
11 Apr at 20:00
SKUTR and Rosťa Novák: 8 - Birds Black, Tits Great:
puppetry and acrobatics by a descendant of the most
famous family in Czech puppetry and circus. 60%
13 Apr at 20:00
DREAMING.ANDERSEN: tales of H.C. Andersen’s road to
fame with live music from composer Michal Nejtek and
Czech hip hoppers. 60%
15 Apr at 20:00
Kristýna Lhotákova & Ladislav Soukup: Hansel & Gretel:
young dancers examine childhood and youth. 100%
16 & 17 Apr at 20:00
Nickname: examines the phenomenon of internet chat.
50%
18 & 19 Apr at 20:00
Yasunari Tamai & Vladimír Javorský: Don Quixote of
Hakushu: new wave Japanese theatre with featuring a
modern butó dancer. 100%
22 Apr at 20:00
Chat: Dangerously Easy Liaisons: also examines the
phenomenon of internet chat. 50%
24 Apr at 20:00
Michal Prokop & Framus Five: Czech rhythm and blues.
100%
27 Apr at 20:00
Lisa Gerrard: one half of the cult Australian group Dead
Can Dance. 100%
14 & 15 May at 20:00
Berlin Reloaded Festival: Fear Lab Berlin. 100%
19 & 20 May at 20:00
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Superamas (FR/AT): Big
3rd Episode. 100%
21 May at 20:00
Tiger Lillies, Alexander Hacke, Danielle de Piccioto: Mountains of Madness. 100%
23 & 24 May at 20:00
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Motus (IT): Rumore Rosa.
100% 25 May at 20:00
4+4 Days in Motion Festival: Nigel Charnock (UK): Frank.
100% 29 & 30 May at 20:00
Berlin Reloaded Festival: Constanza Macras & Dorky Park
(D): I Am Not the Only One. 100%
Q PTAEGKW
CULTURE & EVENTS
8
10
12,21
13
13
15
15
18,25
18
19
24,30
25
27
27
28
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
13:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
19:00
14:00
ET
ET
SO
SO
NT
ET
ET
SO
ET
SO
NT
NT
SO
NT
ET
May
1,13
19:00 Rusalka
SO
2,15,30 17:00 Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of
Mozart Operas: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung
ET
2,15
19:00 Madama Butterfly
SO
3,27
19:00 Tosca
SO
4
16:30 Mozartissimo - The Best Selection Of
Mozart Operas: Die Zauberflote, Don Giovanni, Entfuhrung
ET
4,12,30 19:00 La Traviata
SO
4,7
19:00 La Fanciulla Del West
NT
5,26
19:00 Nabucco
SO
5,6
19:00 Orfeo
ET
6,31
19:00 Carmen
SO
8
19:00 Turandot
SO
8
19:00 Libuše
NT
9
20:00 La Traviata
SO
10
19:00 Don Pasquale
ET
11
19:00 Rigoletto
SO
11,22
19:00 The Greek Passion
NT
12
11.00 The Devil And Kate
NT
12
19:00 Samson Et Dalila
NT
13
14:00 Rusalka
SO
15
19:00 Rusalka
NT
16,20
19:00 Le Nozze Di Figaro
ET
17,19,24 19:00 Manon Lescaut
SO
17
19:00 The Secret
NT
18
19:00 Die Zauberflote
SO
18
19:00 Don Giovanni
ET
20
13:00 Die Zauberflote
ET
20
14:00 Il Barbiere Di Seviglia
SO
23
19:00 Lucia Di Lammermoor
SO
25
19:00 Aida
SO
25
19:00 La Clemenza Di Tito
ET
26
14:00 The Walk Worthwhile
NT
27
13:00 Rusalka
NT
27
20:00 La Fanciulla Del West
NT
Ballet
April
1,22,29 14:00
4
19:00
7
19:00
8
14:00
8
19:00
9,11,22,30
19:00
12,13
19:00
14
20:00
16
19:00
17
19:00
21
14:00
21
19:00
28
14:00
28
19:00
May
12
20
20,23
21
22,29
29,30
Swan Lake
Ibbur, Or A Prague Mystery
Miniatury
Mozart? Mozart!
Mozart? Mozart!
SO
ET
ET
NT
NT
Swan Lake
Family Album
Gala Ballet
Gala Ballet
A Midsummer Night’s Dream
Balletmania
Balletmania
Onegin
Onegin
SO
ET
NT
SO
SO
ET
ET
NT
NT
19:00 Ballet Praha Junior
14:00 Solo For Three - Music: Brel,
Vysockij, Kryl
19:00 Solo For Three - Music: Brel,
Vysockij, Kryl
19:00 La Dame Aux Camelias
19:00 Cinderella
19:00 Family Album
ET
Juliette and The Licks
NT
Noise
NT
SO
SO
ET
Black Light Theatre
April
1,5,12,15,19,26,29
20:00 Cabinet
1-17,19-30
21:30 Aspects Of Alice
2-9,11,13,15,17-19,22,23,25-29
20:00 Frankenstein
2,3,9,10,16,17,23,30
20:00 Studio Clip
2,3,30
20:00 Graffiti
3-8,30
20:00 Quo Vadis
4-9,11-14,18-21,25-29
19:30 The Best Of Black Theatre
4,8,11,18,22,25 20:00 Black Box
4-8,18-21
20:00 Wonderful Circus
5
18:00 Cabinet
6,7,13,14,20,21,27,28
20:00 The Best Of Image
7,21
17:00 Wonderful Circus
9-14
20:00 Anatomy Of The Kiss
10-14,16,17
20:00 Rendez-Vous
14
17:00 Rendez-Vous
17-21
20:00 Classics - The Best From
Black Theatre
18
18:00 Black Box
23-28
20:00 Casanova
24
18:00 Studio Clip
24-29
20:00 Miss Sony
28
17:00 Casanova
May
1-5
7-12,23-27,29-31
12,26
14-19,21,22
19
Daily
Konono No 1
La Clemenza Di Tito
Don Giovanni
Rigoletto
Tosca
Rusalka
Die Zauberflote
Le Nozze Di Figaro
Lucia Di Lammermoor
Die Zauberflote
Il Barbiere Di Seviglia
The Walk Worthwhile
Carmen
Die Zauberflote
Samson Et Dalila
Don Giovanni
13
20:00
20:00
17:00
20:00
17:00
21:30
Graffiti
Wonderful Circus
Wonderful Circus
Legend of the Argonauts
Legend of the Argonauts
Aspects Of Alice
IM
TF
PT
IM
LG
FK
JS
IM
LG
IM
IM
LG
FK
LG
LG
FK
IM
LG
IM
FK
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
TF
April
3
6
10
12
13
13
14
17
22
23
18:00
19:00
20:00
20:00
20:00
20:00
19:00
21:00
19:00
21:00
24
25
27
27
28
19:30
19:00
19:30
20:00
20:00
May
7
14
19
21
21:00
19:00
20:00
20:00
12 Apr
Tokio Hotel
Gwar
Faithless
Juliette and The Licks
Amazing City - Paul Oakenfold
Roger Waters
Konono No 1
Gaia Mesiah
Kosheen
Rise Against, The Bronx and
Cancer Bats
Panteon Rococó
Wednesday 13
The Young Gods
Lisa Gerrard
Tito & Tarantula
SA
AK
TM
RM
TM
SA
AK
LM
RX
Incognito
Bryan Ferry
Marillion
Mountains of Madness (The Tiger
Lillies & Alexander Hacke)
LM
LH
RM
LM
RX
RC
AK
AR
RC
AR
Exhibitions
Alena Kučerová
Until 29 Apr
Alena Kučerová (b.1935) is one of the foremost personalities
in Czech graphic design. This retrospective ties in with a
similar project at the same venue sixteen years ago and
is representative of the broad scope of Kučerová´s oeuvre
from the end of the fifties, linked to the circles of the UB 12
group, to the present. Admission 100/50Kč.
Where? Stone Bell House, E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.
13, tel. 224 827 526, www.citygalleryprague.cz. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon.
For more events go to
14 Apr
April - May 2007
14
CULTURE & EVENTS
CULTURE & EVENTS
Where? Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague, D-2, Praha 1,
17. listopadu 2, tel. 251 093 111, www.upm.cz. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Tue 10.00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Venue guide
These codes refer to those used in the listings on
previous pages.
AK
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, tel.
296 330 911, fax 296 330 912, www.
palacakropolis.cz.
AR
Archa Theatre J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26,
tel. 221 71 61 11, fax 221 71 66 66, www.
archatheatre.cz.
ET
Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo) E-3,
Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1, tel. 224 22 85 03.
FK
Black Theatre of Fr. Kratochvíl H-4, Praha 1,
Národní 25, tel. 221 08 52 76.
IM
Image Black Theatre H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 4,
tel. 222 31 44 58, www.imagetheatre.cz.
JS
Black light Theatre of Jiří Srnec F-3,
Praha 5, U Lékárny 597, tel. 257 92 18 35,
www.blacktheatresrnec.cz.
LG
Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel.
222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz.
LH
Lucerna Hall I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, tel.
224 22 54 40, www.lucerna.cz.
LM
Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova
36, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz.
MH
Municipal House (Obecní dům)
MW
St. Martin in the Wall D-4, Praha 1,
Martinská 8, tel. 604 75 90 62, www.
martinvezdi.cz.
NT
National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní
třída 2, tel. 224 90 16 68, www.narodnidivadlo.cz.
PT
Prague Castle - New Gallery
Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, tel. 224
RC
93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz.
RF
Rudolfinum D-2, Praha 1, Alšovo nábř. 12,
tel. 227 05 91 11.
RM
Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská
4, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz.
RX
Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, tel. 224 82 62
96, www.roxy.cz.
SA
Sazka Arena Praha 9, Ocelářská 460/2,
www.sazkaarena.cz.
SO
State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel.
224 22 72 66.
TF
Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, tel.
222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz.
TM
T-Mobile Aréna Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou
419, tel. 266 72 74 11, www.hcsparta.cz.
VI
Villa America - Antonín Dvořák’s Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. 224
91 80 13, www.nm.cz.
The Orbis Pictus
Until 30 Apr
The Orbis Pictus, or The Gate to the World of Man’s
Creative Imagination
Until 30 Apr
This interactive exhibition premiered at the Czech Centre
in Paris last year and currently takes full advantage of
this museum’s monumental vestibule and transepts. The
centrepiece is inspired by The Labyrinth of the World and
the Paradise of the Heart by Jan Amos Comenius and is an
organic playing assembly mounted in an inflated heart-shaped
structure, which invites, like all the other exhibits, the visitors’
active and creative participation. Also find The Ear, The Eye,
Singing Butterfly, a giant kaleidoscope and the Fountain of
Pleasure. During the exhibition a number of musical, dance
and theatrical performances will be held; most of them will be
fairly alternative. Admission 100/50Kč.
Where? Czech Music Museum in Prague, B-3, Praha 1,
Karmelitská 2, tel. 257 25 77 77, www.pampaedia.cz. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.
Japanese Posters Today
Until 6 May
The exhibition features over a hundred Japanese posters
produced in the last decade from the collection DNP Archives
of Graphic Design, Tokyo. After its premiere in Munich the
exhibition went to Zurich and Frankfurt and will travel to Berlin.
In collaboration with Dai Nippon Printing Co. Ltd., Die Neue
Sammlung - Staatliches Museum für angewandte Kunst.
Admission 120/60Kč.
For more venues, see www.inyourpocket.com
Each of us is an artist
Leica Gallery Praha invites general public to take part
in this project that will be developed over the next three
years, inspired by the idea of coaxing the artist in each of
us to look at the region and world around us with different
eyes and produce a photographic testimony on life. This
year’s theme is ‘My Family’. Terms and conditions may
be found at www.lgp.cz.
Bedřich Dlouhý
Until 31 May
Lawrence Ferlinghetti
Until 13 May
Lawrence Ferlinghetti (b. 1919) is known as one of the Beat
poets and is the co-owner of San Francisco’s City Lights
Bookstore. This exhibition presents a cross-section of his
work, primarily drawings and spacious canvasses expressing
his emotions from observing naked male and female bodies,
which also convey the social and political contexts of his
poetry. Admission 100/50Kč.
Where? Golden Ring House, E-3, Praha 1, Týnská 6, tel. 224
827 022, www.citygalleryprague.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
Shomei Tomatsu: Skin of the Nation
Until 14 May
Shomei, the father of modern Japanese photography, is
one of the most eloquent Japanese artists of the past halfcentury and influenced several generations of Japanese
photographers with his approach; documentary-based, lyrical
and symbolic. Admission 100/50Kč.
Where? Galerie Rudolfinum, Praha 1, D-2, Alšovo nábř. 12,
tel. 227 05 92 05, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Open 10:00
Mammoths Hunters: A period that very few remember…
Until 30 May
The Gravettian region includes cave sites in France and
the open sites of specialized mammoth hunters on the
plains of Moravia, Austria and Silesia, which never again
determined the development of culture in such a way. This
exhibition features original artefacts, reconstruction of
period dwellings and an actual-sized replica of a mammoth.
Admission 110/60Kč and this ticket affords a 20% discount
at Primitiv Restaurant Pravěk, I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, tel.
224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sun &
Mon 11:30 - 23:00.
Where? National Museum, I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68,
tel. 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. Open 09:00 - 17:00
Bedřich Dlouhý: Self-Portrait IV
Until 31 May
The exhibition named Self-Portrait IV will present the latest
works of the painter Bedřich Dlouhý. The artist continues
his work with new formats of his brilliant pieces. Let yourself
be led into his world of magic and illusions, experiment and
absurdity and bear witness to a certain development in his
works, where Dlouhý unexpectedly adopts a reduced, even
minimalist expression. Admission free.
Where? Galerie Montanelli, A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 13, tel.
724 21 15 84, www.galeriemontanelli.com. Open 12:00
- 18:00, Closed Sat & Sun.
Air Asia
4 Apr - 1 July
Anniversary of the Eight
6 Apr - 17 June
To mark the 100th anniversary of the first exhibition held by
Osma (The Eight) - Emil Filla, Bedřich Feigl, Max Horb, Bohumil
Kubišta, Otakar Kubín, Emil Pittermann-Longen, Willy Nowak
and Antonín Procházka. Although today it is impossible
to attempt a reconstruction of a show that signalled the
emergence of Modernism in Czech art, this exhibition seeks
to recall that important event. Admission 50/20Kč.
Where: Czech Museum of Fine Arts, Praha 1, Husova 19
- 21, tel. 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon
Rudolfine Beauty
Recently Discovered Works by Painters at the Court
of Emperor Rudolf II
From 15 Apr
Thanks to the generosity of a foreign admirer of Rudolfine
art, four works are returning to the rooms for which they
were most probably created during the reign of Rudolf II.
For the first time since their discovery three paintings and
a sculpture from a private collection are being exhibited
by Prague Castle Picture Gallery as a public exhibition.
The hitherto unknown, uncatalogued works with subject
matter from classical mythology and the Bible were
made by important artists at Rudolf’s court: the German painter, diplomat, and buyer of artworks for the
imperial collections Hans von Aachen (Cologne 1551/52
- Prague 1615); the Flemish painter and draughtsman
Bartholomeus Spranger (Antwerp 1546 - Prague 1611);
and the Netherlandish (yes, that is a real word) sculptor
Adriaen de Vries (The Hague c.1545 - Prague 1626). The
pieces will remain on show for a year and admission is
included on your castle ticket.
Air Asia
4 Apr - 1 July
A selection of works from last year’s Noorderlicht Photofestival
in the Netherlands, this exhibition is a flight over Southeast
Asia in the company of sixteen photographers. It provides a
look at the history of portrait and documentary photography
as well as reflecting contemporary life in genres from
Minimalist Art to ironic portrayals of Bollywood Pop culture.
With accompanying lectures, discussions, and screenings at
the Langhans Gallery and films on 6, 13 & 20 June, at Ponrepo
Cinema. All begin at 20:00. Admission 60/30Kč.
Where? Langhans Galerie, I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, tel.
222 92 93 33, www.langhansgalerie.cz. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
April - May 2007
15
16
6TH PRAGUE FRINGE FESTIVAL
CULTURE & EVENTS
Gallery in the Train
5 - 24 Apr
Gross Domestic Product
4 May - 18 Aug
Contemporary Czech art is as scathing as it is gentle, as
apolitical as it is political, as conceptual as it is spectacular,
as contemplative as it is provocative and as sane as it is
insane. The exhibition presents the current Czech arts scene
in its full diversity and variety. Admission 120/60 Kč.
Where? Municipal Library, D-3, Praha 1, Mariánské nám.
1, tel. 222 31 04 89, www.ghmp.cz. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
Gallery in the Train: Million Dollar Hotel & Buena Vista
Social Club
5 - 24 Apr
The Leica Gallery Praha continues its movable visual feast
with two exhibitions from filmmaker Wim Wenders and his
photographer wife Donata. The Million Dollar Hotel, depicts
an American Dream from U2’s Bono (who has a writing credit
on the film) comprising film stills and photos with Bono’s lyrics
and Donata’s prints illustrating the works of the actors Mila
Jovovich and Jeremy Davis. The second involves prints and
stills created by the Wenders during the making of the Buena
Vista Social Club, capturing the spirit and atmosphere of Cuba.
Accompanied by stories and lyrics from Ry Cooder, Joaquim
Cooder and Wim Wenders. The train will move to other Czech
railway stations until mid August. Admission 50Kč.
Where? Praha Hlavní nádraží (main station), Praha 1, J-4,
Wilsonova 80, www.lgp.cz. Open daily 10:00 - 22:00.
Happenings
6th Bacardi Salsa Festival Prague 2007
13 - 15 Apr
Some of the best international salsa dancers, teachers, DJs
and promoters will visit Prague for this festival where last
year over 1,000 participants from 25 countries took part.
Workshops for wannabees and experts will be held as well
as three salsa parties with professional shows, so bring on
the heat. Tickets €19 - 100. See www.salsafestival.cz for
details, the earlier you buy, the cheaper the tickets.
Where? National House, J-5, Praha 2, nám. Míru 9, tel. 221
59 62 09, www.nardum.cz.
Czech Dance Platform 2007
13 - 18 Apr
An exciting and intensive week of dance for Czech and
international audiences mapping the progress of Czech
contemporary dance over the past year.
13 Apr
18:00 - Farma v jeskyni /Viliam Dočolomanský: Waiting
Room at NoD, F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33
20:00 - Jaro Viňarský: The Last Step Before & Karine
Ponties: Mi Non Sabir at Ponec, Praha 3, Husitská 24
14 Apr
17:00 - Marta Trpišovská/Jana Hudečková: Baring Our Souls
at Duncan Centre, Praha 4, Branická 41
20:00 - Dance Theatre Entre Pasos/Pavlína Černá, A.A.
Gonzalez: Voices of a Dream, Dora Hoštová: Arcanum & DOT
504/Anton Lachký: Heaven is the Place... at Ponec
15 Apr
12:00 - Lucie Holánková: Kambana, Lucie Holánková: Till I
Find You & Ji Eun Lee: Objects & Particles at Divadlo Disk,
D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26
14:00 - Dagmar Chaloupková: Gradina, Dora Hoštová: On a
Perch & Krepsko: Polish Tango for Three at Duncan Centre
17:00 - Jan Beneš-McGadie & Vojta Švejda: Polaris at
Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře, I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36
20:00 - Kristýna Celbová: AriaD.N.A & Jan Kodet: (e)MOTION
PURE – KEVEL at Ponec
16 Apr
18:00 - Veronika Švábová: Silence at Alfred ve dvoře
20:00 - NANOHACH/Ioana Mona Popovici: Portrait at Ponec
17 Apr
20:00 - Černá Vaněk Dance: No Fear, No Die at Ponec
18 Apr
11:00 - Open discussion with the members of the Sazka
Prize Jury and artists at Ponec
19:00 - VerTe Dance: The Brave at Ponec
Altan: Irish Dance
25 Apr at 19:00
Arguably the biggest name in traditional Irish music, for over
20 years the Altan family have created a distinctive style full
of energy and rhythm combined with the fragility of Gaelic
and English lyrics. Tickets 490Kč.
Where? T-Mobile Arena, Praha 7, Za elektrárnou 419.
Prague Spring 2007
12 May - 3 June
The 62nd year for this famed International Music Festival
kicks of with the traditional opening and closing concerts at
the Municipal House and will comprise concerts performed
by musicians hailing from countries such as the Czech
Republic, Korea, China, the UK, the US, Spain and Finland will
be presented at some 18 venues. The 59th Prague Spring
International Music Competition will take place from 7 - 15
May, in the categories of horn and conducting. Tickets from
200 - 2,400Kč. See www.festival.cz for more information
and full programme listings.
For more events go to
Prague Spring
12 May - 3 June
27 May - 3 June
The quirky and unusual hits Prague between the eyes for the
sixth time this summer as we welcome back the increasingly
feted, bigger and better Prague Fringe Festival. Audiences
of all ages and nationalities will laugh, cry, get turned on
and off no doubt, sing, dance and listen to this incredible
festival of theatre, comedy, music and film from the Czech
Republic and around the globe. Let’s do the number crunching
before we get into the shows themselves… over 170
performers (including actors, artists, puppeteers, singers
and dancers) in 44 companies from 12 countries will put
on 259 performances over 8 days in 8 venues. And despite
adding two new venues and one extra day, the indefatigable
Fringe organisers assure us that all performances can still
be seen over the eight days. So, which performances? Take
your pick, here’s a selection:
Tourist (England)
Daily, 18:30 - 19:30 at Nablízko
This frenetic and exhilarating new show from little d-fects
examines how dreams and life can be shattered or fulfilled in
an instant. Set in Beijing during a total eclipse it is text based
but visual and suitable for 14 years and over.
The Voice and The Verse (Ireland)
Daily, 20:30 - 21:30 at U Malého Glena
A montage of musical poetry from contemporary voices.
Poignant lyrics and infectious melodies. Do not miss this craic
but be aware that it is for adults only and is in English.
Andi Neate (Scotland)
1 - 3 June, 19:00 - 20:00 at U Malého Glena
After debuting at London’s Mean Fiddler, Andi has since taken
her magical blend of folk, jazz and lyrical skills to the Falkland
Islands, Edinburgh Fringe, Palermo and Canada. A local favourite,
this is Andi’s fourth trip here. Suitable for all ages, in English.
Na hlavu! (Czech Republic)
27 - 29 May, 19:30 - 20:30 & 3 June, 15:00 - 16:00 at
Nablízko tent. The Veselé skoky (Jolly Jumps) group present
Flathead! Dance madness featuring humour and tenderness,
kleptomaniacs and nymphomaniacs. Inspired by ballet and
panto, Monty Python and Mr. Bean among others. Suitable
for all ages and languages; it is non verbal.
First Love (England)
Daily, 18:00 - 19:00 at Divadlo Inspirace
The London-based but wonder fully multicultural Act
Provocateur International presents their provocative
adaptation of Beckett’s short story pondering the ability of
love to survive our cruel and perverse world. Physical theatre
with verbal elements and is suitable for adults only.
Tarantella, Tarantula (USA)
The San Francisco based ARTSHIP Ensemble performs
nonlinear dance and music sequences to weave a story about
the continuing influence of traditional cultures whatever our
era or location, basically that humans need human needs. It
is text based but visual and suitable for adults only.
A Play On Two Chairs (Ireland)
The Mangiare Theatre Company, based in both Paris and
Sligo, were nominated for three Dublin Fringe Festival Awards
last year for this text based performance which will change
the way you look at your furniture forever.
Amelia (USA)
Daily, 16:00 - 17:00 at A Studio Rubín
The famed life and mysterious disappearance of aviatrix
Amelia Earhart, who vanished on her quest to follow the
equatorial route across the globe. Was she a US spy, did she
die on a deserted island or did she go down with her beloved
airplane? Suitable for all but containing strong language.
Lot Lizards (Canada)
Peepshow Productions present their adult-only subterranean
A Play On Two Chairs
27 May - 3 June
shuffle revolving around two drug-addicted prostitutes who live
and work at a truck stop. Text based visual theatre and film.
No Obvious Trauma (England)
Text based but visually splendid romantic thriller from
Unpacked’s high octane fusion of physical theatre, words,
puppetry and animation that explores the fine line between
diagnosis and delirium. Suitable for adults only.
Short Films @ the Fringe (HK/CZ)
1 - 3 June, 15:15 - 16:30 at Nablízko
The Prague Fringe presents a series of short independent
films on Hong Kong, a city of contradictions. In association with
the “I Shot Hong Kong” Film Festival. In English/Cantonese/
Putonghua. Subtitled in English and suitable for 15 and over.
Also, prodigal returnees include the delightfully vulgar comedy
of Topping & Butch, the divine voice of Maria Tecce and
the creative writings of Prague’s own The Ancient Geeks.
Plus, Paul Gudgin, Director of The Edinburgh Festival Fringe
will join Ladislav Pflimpfl, Director of the Czech Cultural Centre
in London and Prague Fringe Founder/ Director, Steve Gove
to discuss opportunities for Czech independent theatre
companies, productions and projects to perform in Scotland
at the world’s largest festival. 30 May, 15.30 - 16.30 at
Divadlo Na Prádle.
All shows are in Malá Strana, here are the the venues…
Divadlo Na Prádle and its rather tasty kavárna (café) and
the ticket office is also the PFF central box office. Praha 1,
Besedni 3, (B-4), www.divadlonapradle.cz
Nablízko and its stan (tent) will also have tents serving up
veggie food and Nam Jai Thai massage. Praha 1, Nosticova
2a, (B-3), www.nablizko.cz
U Malého Glena’s gem of a downstairs venue which is also
amply served by the tasty bar and café upstairs. Praha 1,
Karmelitska 23, (B-3), www.malyglen.cz
A Studio Rubín with a bar and café. Praha 1, Malostranské
nám. 9, (A-2), www.astudiorubin.cz
Divadlo Inspirace is a new venue for the PFF. Praha 1,
Malostranské nám. 13, (A-2), www.hamu.cz/divadlo
Baráčnická rychta is the second new venue and a great Czech
pub . Praha 1, Tržiště 23, (A-2), www.baracnickarychta.cz
Tickets 100Kč for the first day, 150Kč on subsequent
days and are available also from www.ticketstream.cz
from early May. For more information, see www.fringe.cz.
Programmes will be available online and at bars, cafés and
Fringe venues also from early May.
April - May 2007
17
18
TOP 10 … PARKS & GARDENS
In honour of the early and very welcoming coming of
spring, the inaugural series Prague In Your Pocket Top
10… kicks of with a Parks & Gardens. As soon as winter
shrugs off woollen coat, Prague erupts with people and
blossom basking in the longer days of sunshine and
the opening of the city’s green spaces while pavements
suddenly sprout chairs and tables and everyone becomes
friendlier - this might be due to the opening of the beer
gardens rather than the weather…
Zoo Praha
After the tragic losses of the 2002 floods, the Zoo has
improved beyond all recognition and even has an awardwinning programme beamed live from within its enclosures.
Prague’s gorillas are increasing in number while also
increasing in fame. Following the birth of Moya in 2004, the
oldest female, Kamba, is due to give birth to a baby, again
sired by Richard, in May. If you can’t get to the Zoo to see the
event in person, you can watch it live online on Czech Radio’s
show The Revealed (www.rozhlas.cz/unmasking/live).
Moya’s mother, Kijivu is due to give birth to another baby
later this year – and yes, Richard is the father again. With
the coming of spring, so arrives the increase in displays,
feedings talks and introductions of and to some of the
Zoo’s animals. To save tired legs (and children) there are
two chairlifts operating in good weather to tour the zoo from
above (30/20Kč) and summer sees the reintroduction of
night tours although these are only in Czech.
Wallenstein Gardens
Valdštejnská zahrada may have a lot of rules, but the lack of
human and canine detritus only adds to their beauty. This small
but beautiful formed park is famous for its peacocks, the cavernlike folly (look for phallic and serpentine motifs) and the biggest
fish we’ve seen in a while – ducklings often have to make a sharp
exit to avoid being nibbled. Add cheerful employees who love
their work, an owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore to
while away sunny afternoons either before or after a venture up
to the castle, and you have a sublime spot for a quiet sojourn.
A small gate to the right of the exit from Malostranská metro
station is an alternative entrance to the one on Letenská and
the third which is through the courtyard of Valdštejnský palác,
one of the Czech Parliament buildings.
Petřín Hill
Spring is the best time to see Petřín Hill as it is awash in white
blossom, ironically giving it a far snowier look in May than it ever
had this winter. For a decent city hike, head to the Švandovo
divadlo stop (Tram N°6,9,12,20) and walk up through the
park from the entrance near a new kids’ playground, past the
Kinský summer palace, past the wooden Ukrainian church
and through the Hunger Wall. This wall, several miles long, was
commission by Charles IV and is so called because it was built
during a famine in exchange for food. 30 Apr sees Petřín Hill
pinpricked by illegal fires for one of the country’s more unusual
traditions, Pálení čarodějnic (Witches’ Night), and the fires are
for burning old brooms to keep the witches at bay. Apparently
couples leap over the embers in some sort of fertility rite, but
it is May Day, 1 May that is the true symbol of renewal and
love when passion springs forth under the blossom trees. The
tradition is that a kiss or more ‘neath the blossom will keep us
and our love virile and fresh for the coming year. Karel Hynek
Mácha (1810-1836) wrote a romantic poem entitles Maj and a
statue of him appropriately stands on Petřín Hill to be visited by
the lovers inspired by it. (Mácha is buried however at Vyšehrad.)
A couple of restaurants and a beer garden sit prettily at the
funicular’s Nebozizek tram mid way up the hill.
TOP 10... PARKS & GARDENS
The Castle Gardens
Prague Castle, like the city, is blessed with numerous green
spaces and a walk around these fabulous gardens is good
for body, soul and for wonderful vistas across the red tiled
roofs of Malá Strana. The large Royal Garden was laid out
in 1534 as Ferdinand I gradually bought the vineyards
around the Brusnice stream valley to the north of the castle
complex. Buildings within its area include the Ball Game
Pavilion and the Royal Summer House. The garden is now
an “English-style” park created in the mid 19th century
(although there are also Renaissance and Baroque elements)
and is accessible via two entrances, the main (western)
gate from U Prašného mostu (By the Powder Bridge) and
the east gate near the Royal Summer House. The northern
gate from Mariánské hradby (Marian Ramparts) is only open
occasionally. The Garden on the Terrace of the Riding School,
which is to the right as you enter the castle from Pražský hrad
tram stop, was designed in the Baroque style by architect
Pavel Janák between 1950 and 1956. The Garden on the
Bastion is by the Spanish Hall and was designed by Josip
Plečnik, the castle’s official architect from 1920 - 1935 in
the Italian and Japanese style. The Bastion gardens can be
approached from U Prašného mostu or from Hradčanské
náměstí. The steeply terraced gardens facing Malá Strana
incorporate Paradise Garden, The Garden on the Ramparts
and the Hartig Garden. Gardens are open to the public all
summer and are free to wander through. The northern Royal
Garden links with adjacent Letenské sady and makes a lovely
walk along the old city wall.
Letenské sady
a.k.a. Letná, which has great open fields for football, kiteflying, Frisbee and even for hot air ballooning. There are
also tennis courts, inline skate rental (from the bathroom
attendant at the beer garden), retro 70s disco rollerbooters, skaterboys and more, plus panoramic views of
Prague from the metronome, where a new huge aquarium
should be opening in 2009. The metronome itself is a 1991
replacement for the 15m high, 17,000 tonne statue of Josef
Stalin that the Communist Party erected in 1955 then blew up
(at the orders of the new Soviet leader, Nikita Khrushchev) in
1962. The statue showed Stalin in front of a line of workers,
which Prague residents irreverently dubbed Fronta na maso
(meat queue), which were of course a daily part of life in the
city then. The blacktop paths around the park have markings
for all comers to keep on the right side of the road and once
you have worked up a thirst, Letná is home to one of the
city’s finest beer gardens… finest by view, ambience and
sheer at-one-with-natureness rather than luxury – although
the adjacent Letenský zámeček restaurant (see page 68)
does host some fine dining. Sit under the chestnut trees with
your beer from the kiosk – look for the line of thirsty/drunk
people. Kids are well catered for too with toddler playgrounds
and an excellent adventure area. To get to the park, you can
walk up the steep steps from Čechův most (Tram N°12,17)
or go to Sparta or Letenské náměstí (Tram N°1,8,15,25,26)
and walk into the park from there. Hradčanská is the closest
metro stop and it’s a ten minute walk from there.
Riegrovy sady
This Vinohrady park (K-5) is more for dog-walking and
sunbathing as the paths tend to be too steep for blading
or skating (winter sledding is fantastic here though).
The sunbathers use the pub on the corner Polská and
Třebízského to water themselves if they can’t face the
longer walk to the beer garden (which does serve in plastic
cups too). And so we come to the beer garden which is
why everyone really comes here… food from the grill, beer
from the over-active taps, foosball tables, big screen and
benches galore host myriad residents, expats, tourists and
TV crews – when national sports are showing. For a more
salubrious dining experience, opposite the beer garden is
the rather lovely Park Café with excellently priced food and
drinks and a small terrace. The quickest way to the beer
garden, which is next to the kid’s playground (obviously) is
along Slavíkova from Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station and
turn left onto Krkonošská.
Havlíčkovy sady
Another of Vinohrady’s parks is quite appropriately also
a vineyard and has a lovely winebar within its boundaries.
A luxurious neo-Renaissance summer house, the Villa
Gröbe (Gröbovka) was built between 1871 to 1888 for the
industrialist Moritz Gröbe. After his death, the villa and
grounds were sold to Royal Vinohrady and the park was
opened on 6 May, 1906. The villa is currently undergoing
reconstruction. Viniční altán (see page 44) has a beautiful
wooden terrace for the summertime sipping of wine – follow
the signs in the park. See if you can find the ruins near the
Koperníkova end (J/K-6) but the easiest way to get to the
park is walking from Jana Masaryka (Tram N°4,22,23). If
you walk all the way down the hill, you do not need to hike
back up but can catch trams on Vršovická across the small
stream.
Vyšehrad
Also known as the rock above the river, Vyšehrad is
beautifully signposted by the twin neo-Gothic towers of
the Church of Saints Peter & Paul. Vyšehrad was the royal
residence from 1085-1140 at which time the Rotunda of St.
Martin was built, which remained outside the jurisdiction of
the Bishop of Prague and reported directly to Rome. Under
Charles IV, Vyšehrad was converted into a fortress with a
Gothic royal palace and was linked to the city wall. In the
17th century it was converted into a Baroque fortress with its
own garrison. The middle of the 19th century saw Vyšehrad’s
present profile rise as the church was rebuilt and the national
cemetery was created here in 1870 which has become a
gallery of funeral sculpture as well as the resting place of
over 600 cultural and intellectual luminaries including Jozef
and Karel Čapek, Karel Hynek Mácha and Alfons Mucha. The
Historic Faces of Vyšehrad underground exhibition is found as
you walk towards the so-called Baths of Libuše at the rocky
promontory. Signs from Vyšehrad metro station lead to the
castle. The tram line below the castle cuts into the rock – it’s a
lovely trip along the embankment there. Steps heading down
to the embankment (Rabínovo nábr.) lead down to behind the
Cubist houses near the railway bridge.
Parukářka sady
This isn’t the most well known park in Prague but it has
superb views of the hill from its vantage point atop Vinohrady
and Žižkov near the TV Tower and the massive horse statue
of the Vítkov monument. Benches provide your own spot to
view the city from and there is a small pub with cold beer, grill
and even a bonfire for chilly evenings. To get to the park, go to
Olšanské náměstí (Tram N°5,9,26) and cross the footbridge
across Prokopova street. As you begin the walk up the stairs
(the park is at the top) you will see a large cement wall on
your right, this is Bunkr Parukářka (see page 67), an honest
to goodness nuclear bunker now open for live music and DJ
sets… Try the door (and check out the size of it), someone
might be down there but don’t get locked in… no one can
hear you scream in a nuclear bunker.
Franciscan Gardens
The beautifully serene Frantíškánská zahrada (I-4) abuts the
lofty Church of Mary of the Snow and although this space
has been a garden since the 14th century, its present form
was reconstructed in the 1990s. The garden is small and
there is little to do except catch some rays on one of the
benches, marvel at the rose garden, buy a frock perhaps
from the small shop in its centre or just eat an ice cream
from Pasáž Světozor and relax in this oasis of calm in the
bustle of city life.
April - May 2007
19
20
WHERE TO STAY
Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted
generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies.
All prices include VAT and breakfast unless mentioned
otherwise.
Cream of the crop
Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště
19, MStaromětská, tel. 257 28 60 11, fax 257 28 60
17, reservations@alchymisthotel.com, www.alchymisthotel.com. Incorporated in four Baroque and Renaissance
buildings, the Alchymist treads a fine line between opulence
and OTT but with sublime refinements in service and with a
Balinese spa beautifully nestled in the 16th century cellars,
opulence wins out.Q46 rooms (26 doubles N300 - 335, 13
suites N600 - 1800, 7 junior suites N375 - 415). ACDE
FGHKLPR hhhhh
Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad,
tel. 261 19 11 11, fax 261 21 16 73, towers@corinthia.
cz, www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you would demand
from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition to a top-class
oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a casino, fitness
centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 singles N260
- 300, 388 doubles N260 - 300, triples N350 - 390, 20 suites
N410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite N1570, 16 junior suites N410).
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a,
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 42 70 00, fax 221 42 69 77,
reservations.prg@fourseasons.com, www.fourseasons.
com/prague. Just a step from Charles Bridge, the Four Seasons
affords its guests with as much class and comfort as is humanly
possible. Over a year was spent renovating the four buildings that
provide a roof over your head, which range from 500-year-old
elegance to contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles N275
- 550, 141 doubles N295 - 570, 20 apartments N695 - 3900).
ABDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská 4,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 234 60 81 11, fax 222 32 95 45,
office@grandhotelbohemia.cz, www.grandhotelbohemia.
cz. An Austrian-run hotel with attractive Art Nouveau rooms
and staff who are renowned for their efficiency. The hotel has
a café and laundry service. Q78 rooms (10 singles N175
- 240, 65 doubles N210 - 280, 3 junior suites N310 - 540).
AGHKLPRU hhhhh
Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc,
tel. 224 84 11 11, fax 224 84 23 78, sales.prague@
hilton.com, www.prague.hilton.com. Easily recognisable
as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has all the
facilities expected in this international brand. 24 hour bars,
restaurants and services and a casino. Q788 rooms (20
singles N150 - 280, 646 doubles N150 - 280, 91 triples N166
- 296, 19 suites N308 - 438, 3 apartments N686 - 816, 8
junior suites N266 - 396, 1 presidential suite N956 - 1089).
ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh
InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových
43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. 296 63 11 11, fax 224 81
12 16, prague@interconti.com, www.prague.interconti.
com. The friendliest front desk and most helpful concierge in
all of Prague might be your first contact with this big, international hotel that has been looking after high flyers since before
the fall of communism. All the facilities you would expect,
including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms (155 singles
N149 - 270, 128 doubles N149 - 290, 24 suites N349 - 490,
2 apartments N1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites N199 - 340).
ABCDFGHKLPRU hhhhh
WHERE TO STAY
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi
Josef F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 20, MNám. Republiky, tel.
221 70 01 11, fax 221 70 09 99, reservation@hoteljosef.
com, www.hoteljosef.com. Should you want your hotel
room to be bare and stuffed with style and edges that might
slice your fingers, then come here and impress whoever you
want with your taste for all things modern and minimal. A
delightful contrast is provided by the serene garden around
which the whole place revolves. Q110 rooms (8 singles
N149 - 253, 102 doubles N173 - 296). ABFGH
KLPRUW hhhhh
Mandarin Oriental B-3, Praha 1, Nebovidská 459/1,
MMalostranská, tel. 233 08 88 88, fax 233 08 86
68, moprg-reservations@mohg.com, www.mandarinoriental.com. Rooms have at least two LCD TVs, bath
and shower, robes and slippers and DVD player in addition
to regular room amenities. Design, dining (a la carte Asian,
Indian, Mediterranean) and service are immaculate, while
reconstruction of the church and monastery have left
enough to retain character. And the spa is superb. Q99
rooms (2 singles N269 - 669, 75 doubles N269 - 669, 18
suites N879 - 4000, 4 junior suites N769 - 850). ABF
GHKLPRU hhhhh
Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 88 88 88, fax 222 88 88 89, prague.marriott@
marriott.cz, www.marriott.com. Bigger really is better.
Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced
suites have two levels. If you are shelling out for a suite or better, then breakfast is included. Q293 rooms (258 doubles
N149 - 315, 33 suites N359 - 495, 2 apartments N1300).
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
Palace Praha F-4, Praha 1, Panská 12, MMůstek, tel.
224 09 31 11, fax 224 22 12 40, info@palacehotel.cz,
www.palacehotel.cz. A beautiful Viennese Art Nouveau
building houses this hotel, which has been providing superior service to wealthier visitors to Prague since 1906. Its
elegance may be a draw, but its real selling point should be
the friendly staff. Q124 rooms (114 doubles N160 - 336, 3
apartments N770 - 1140, 7 junior suites N430). ADGH
KLPRU hhhhh
Paris I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 51 95, fax 224 22 54 75, booking@
hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz. Everything is Art
Nouveau in this building, from its intricate façade to the
lamps and other furnishings in its café and restaurant. Even
the brass door handles on the antique lifts are decorated
in this beautiful style. Take the stairs and be rewarded with
stained glass windows and red carpets rolled out for each
guest in the hallways. Q86 rooms (70 doubles N160 - 360,
3 apartments N500 - 3700, 13 junior suites N280 - 520).
ABDGHKLPRT hhhhh
President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,
reservations@hotelpresident.cz, www.hotelpresident.
cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino
and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five
star status. Luxurious mod cons abound. All staff seem
genuinely pleased to be here. Q130 rooms (7 singles
N165 - 225, 65 doubles N145 - 225, 22 triples N145 - 225,
32 junior suites N195 - 255, 3 senior suites N295 - 355, 1
presidential suite N800 - 1100). Executive floor add €50
on all types of rooms. ADFHKLOPRTU
hhhhh
Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40,
MMuzeum, tel. 222 82 00 00, fax 222 82 01 00, sales.
prague@radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Built
in 1930 and restored to its former glory in 1999, this place
has picked up a heap of design awards. Guests can expect
rooms that have the warmth and grace of state rooms on a
luxury liner. The higher the floor, the more stunning your view
of Prague. Extras include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices
do not include VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles N169 - 229,
180 doubles N169 - 229, 5 suites N309 - 359, 1 apartment
N900 - 1300, 13 junior suites N269 - 309). ABDFGH
KLPRTU hhhhh
Renaissance I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 82 21 00, fax 221 82 22 00, renaissance.
prague@renaissance.cz, www.renaissancehotels.com.
Pay more to stay at the top-floor VIP lounge, where, with the
abounding irony of this cruel world, everything is free. Price
does not include breakfast. Q310 rooms (299 doubles
N140 - 250, 10 suites N399 - 459, 1 apartment N950).
ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh
The Golden Gate Hotel & Suites H-5, Praha 1, Žitná
8, tel. 225 99 99 99, fax 225 99 99 98, reception@goldengate.cz, www.goldengate.cz. Modern luxury in premium,
deluxe (some of these have no windows) and studio suites
in this reconstructed building. Amenities are the same for
all rooms; king beds, robes, TV & DVD, kitchenette, minibar,
safe, hair dryer, etc. while some suites have dining tables
(furniture is black lacquer on the whole) and microwaves and
those on the top floor are duplex. A lovely café downstairs
provides breakfast and room service. Fitness centre is next
door. Q76 rooms (76 suites N365 - 545). PHARF
GKW hhhhh
Adria E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, MMůstek, tel.
221 08 11 11, fax 221 08 13 00, accom@adria.cz, www.
adria.cz. Look for the most beautiful 18th century building on
Václavské náměstí. This is one of the most historic hotels in
Prague, and after a thorough refit it is also one of the most
modern. If the luxury rooms were not reason enough to stay
there, then the fabulous Triton restaurant should be. Q88
rooms (8 singles N106 - 135, 71 doubles N127 - 235, 5
suites N160 - 285, 4 junior suites N139 - 255). ABGH
KLPRUX hhhh
Ametyst
J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
92 19 21, fax 222 92 19 99, mailbox@hotelametyst.cz,
www.hotelametyst.cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, it has over
450 paintings by Russian and Romanian artists on display,
and a reputation as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague.
Tucked away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food
and transport hubs and now with Wi-Fi throughout, this is
a good low-key option. Q84 rooms (8 singles N85 - 155,
69 doubles N105 - 215, 7 triples N130 - 265). ADGH
KLPUW hhhh
Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel.
296 88 96 88, fax 296 88 99 99, info@andelshotel.com,
www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the centre of the upmarket
development west of the river, and just a few tramstops from
the old town, the glittering facilities at Andel’s will blind you
with their high-technicity. Top-notch accommodation with
designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles N235 - 300, 223
doubles N255 - 325, 8 suites N320 - 380). ADFGH
KLPRTU hhhh
angelo Hotel
Praha 5, Radlická 1g/3216, MAnděl, tel. 234 80 11
11, fax 234 80 99 99, info@angelohotel.com, www.
angelohotel.com. Brightly coloured design and black and
white photos abound in this buzzing hotel in the happening
area around Anděl. Rooms and even suites are on the small
side, but beds are King and all suites have a terrace. The hotel
is designed for the businessman, but robes, TV & DVD afford
pleasure-seekers some comfort too. The safe is notebooksized and has an interior plug for safe recharging. The lower
price for a double room is single occupancy. Q168 rooms
(163 doubles N140 - 255, 2 suites N200 - 300, 3 junior suite
N180 - 280). PHARUFLGBKD hhhh
Upmarket
Élite
H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93
22 50, fax 224 93 07 87, sales@hotelelite.cz, www.
hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates back to the 14th
century, the Élite, a member of the Small Charming group, is
another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, rooms are suitably
grand, spacious and historic, with wonderful high ceilings, and
lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 singles N112 - 176,
67 doubles N125 - 199, 1 triple N169 - 267, 1 junior suite N147
- 216). ABGKLPRU hhhh
Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, slon@hotelcernyslon.cz, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant hotel rolls out
the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms, decorated with
antique furniture, are spacious and some include an amazing view of the surrounding medieval centre. The wine cellar
is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles N73 - 113, 10
doubles N117 - 190, 4 triples N153 - 223). AKLPR
hhhh
April - May 2007
21
22
WHERE TO STAY
Apostolic Residence
E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 25, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 63 22 22, fax 221 63 22 04, apostolic@pragueresidence.cz, www.prague-residence.cz. You can’t get any
closer to the Old Town with these rooms and apartments,
right opposite the astronomical clock. Fabulous views beckon
if you tire of your gorgeous, antique-filled room. Q14 rooms
(13 doubles N153 - 320, 1 apartment N213 - 428). AB
GKP6 hhhh
Arcotel Teatrino K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 53, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 221 42 21 11, fax 221 42 22 22,
teatrino@arcotel.at, www.arcotel.at. This building was
a theatre before becoming a hotel but then falling into disrepair. Reconstructed in 2000, the restaurant retains all the
original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.
Q73 rooms (21 singles N88 - 140, 52 doubles N107 - 183).
ADFGHKL hhhh
Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 221 77 57 11, fax 221 77 57 12, info@hotelastoria.cz, www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies a
modern building on some prime real estate in Prague
Old Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfor table
with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and
great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities
and enormous balconies. Q 74 rooms (singles N99 220, 74 doubles N99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU
hhhh
Barceló Praha
Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. 296 77 21 11, fax
241 44 10 23, hotel@barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com.
An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, this place has extremely
friendly staff and small yet comfy rooms with minibar and
telephone plus free parking in the garage. Q213 rooms
(singles N130 - 150, 198 doubles N150 - 170, 15 suites N170
- 240). AHKLPU hhhh
Biskupský dům B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 6,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 23 20, fax 257 53 18 40,
biskup@ok.cz, www.starshotelsprague.com. Right at
the Malá Strana end of Charles Bridge is this delightful 12th
century Bishop’s House Hotel, comprised of two buildings in
a quiet square. Rooms are elegant and full of antiques, as is
only fitting, and the top floors have the characteristic sloping ceilings and beautiful views over the city. Q45 rooms (1
single N116 - 210, 44 doubles N150 - 230). ABKLU
hhhh
BW Hotel Kampa B-4, Praha 1, Všehrdova 16,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 40 44 44, fax 257 40 43
33, fom@hotelkampa.cz, www.euroagentur.cz. In the
heart of the cobbled beauty of Malá Strana, the halls and
restaurant are a riot of colour and gallery for suits of armour
and alarming swords. Thankfully the rooms are a little cooler
in design. Q84 rooms (singles N118 - 200, doubles N150
- 240, triples N185 - 250, extra bed N48 - 74). ABGH
KLR hhhh
BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 19 25 59, fax 224 22 06 81, reservation@hotel-meteor.cz, www.hotel-meteor.cz. Within
shouting distance of the Powder Tower, this Best Western
hotel is full of charm, but then again, there has been an inn
here since 1307. In the 18th century, the man later to become
Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head down anywhere else.
Q88 rooms (15 singles N109 - 173, 56 doubles N125 - 190,
10 triples N166 - 239, 6 suites N141 - 217). ADFGH
KLPR hhhh
WHERE TO STAY
Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels.
cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft
furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms
are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted
ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. A
little way out of town, the Carlton has good tram links. Q49
rooms (3 singles N73 - 133, 40 doubles N97 - 180, 6 triples
N120 - 223). AGHKLPRU hhhh
Casa Marcello F-1, Praha 1, Řásnovka 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 12 30, fax 222 31 33 23, booking@
casa-marcello.cz, www.casa-marcello.cz. This beautiful
hotel alongside St. Agnes convent is a bit hard to find but
well worth it, if only to have stayed on ‘Eyelashes Street.’ A
good option for those who don’t want to stay where any old
riffraff can just saunter in as they’re passing. Q32 rooms (20
doubles N140 - 270, 6 apartments N250 - 390, 6 junior suites
N190 - 330). ABDFGHKLPRT hhhh
Clementin D-3, Praha 1, Seminářská 4, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 17 98, fax 222 22 17 68, hotel@clementin.
cz, www.clementin.cz. A small, popular and cosy hotel
high up near the castle, where the beautifully decorated
ceilings are as impressive as the modern features. Antiques,
wood and beautiful views mark the rooms, and their cellar
restaurant serves up good Czech and international dishes.
Q9 rooms (3 singles N100 - 155, 4 doubles N117 - 192, 2
triples N140 - 240). AGKP hhhh
Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác,
tel. 261 16 11 11/261 16 60 61, fax 261 21 72 11,
panorama@corinthia.cz, www.corinthia.cz. The second,
albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excellent services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The
pool provides panoramic views of the city as one swims or
lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles N205 - 225, 321 doubles
N205 - 225, triples N275 - 295, 1 presidential suite N1340,
10 junior suites N410). ABCDFGHKLPRTU
hhhh
Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46,
MFlora, tel. 236 08 80 88, fax 236 08 80 89, www.marriott.com. Billed as hotels designed by business travellers,
every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged
for standard rooms) and are spacious with desk, ergonomic
chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very comfortable beds
dominate rooms, haveice buckets, fridge for you to fill, hairdryer, coffee/tea facilities plus iron in every room and robe
and slippers in superior rooms make the Courtyard a place to
stay.Q161 rooms (81 singles N105 - 135, 64 doubles N135
- 175, 13 triples N140 - 200, 1 suite N195 - 245). Breakfast
€9-16. AFGHIKLPR6UW hhhh
Crowne Plaza Praha 6, Koulova 15, MDejvická, tel.
296 53 71 11, fax 296 53 75 35, hotel@crowneplaza.
cz, www.crowneplaza.cz. Prior to its occupation by hoteliers, this building was HQ of the Czechoslovak military. Built
in Stalinist Baroque style, it has friezes glorifying peasant
labour. Inside, rooms are comfortable and spacious, if a little
lacking in spirit. Rooms at the back overlook a large garden.
Q254 rooms (11 singles N330, 221 doubles N340, 12 suites
N370 - 380, 4 apartments N, 6 junior suites N435 - 445).
ABDFGHKLPRT hhhh
Domus Henrici Praha 1, Loretánská 11, MMalostranská, tel. 220 51 13 69, fax 220 51 15 02, henrici@
hidden-places.com, www.hidden-places.com. Literally on
the castle doorstep, this stunning hotel has equally breathtaking views. All the interior furniture and décor is sleek and
the manager seeks guest happiness. Discreet movie stars
are known to have discovered this gem. Q8 rooms (singles
N105 - 205, 4 doubles N120 - 240, 3 triples N160 - 280, 1
quad N240 - 320). ABGHK hhhh
Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám.
22, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 56, fax 221 63 25
58, info@grandhotelpraha.cz, www.grandhotelpraha.cz.
Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, the neighbouring Grand
Hotel is an equally sumptious place to stay, with suitably grand
views over Old Town Square and classically furnished rooms.
Q20 rooms (1 single N128 - 213, 18 doubles N153 - 320, 1
apartment N356 - 463). ADKP6 hhhh
Chateau St. Havel Praha 4, V podzámčí 1, tel. 241 44
57 17, fax 241 44 57 21, info@chateauhotel.cz, www.
chateauhotel.cz. The fabulous neo-Gothic Krč castle, south
of Prague’s centre, houses this exclusive hotel. Originally
a 13th century fortress, the building was remodelled into
its current romantic form in the 1840s, and it still has an
extensive English garden. From the elegant lobby with its
cassette ceiling and the minimalist restaurant in the chapel
to the regally-styled rooms, this place is certainly for for
a king. Q34 rooms (34 doubles N79 - 149). AGH
KLPR6T hhhh
Jalta Praha F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45,
MMuzeum, tel. 222 82 21 11, fax 222 82 28 33, booking@hoteljalta.com, www.jalta.cz. The reception area,
and especially the bathrooms, perpetuate a classy, retro
feel. Fusion Asian cuisine is served in the HOT restaurant
makes an interesting but not necessarily awkward contrast
with the classic lines of the surroundings. Q94 rooms (89
doubles N160 - 240, 5 suites N220 - 290). ABGH
KLPRTU hhhh
La Boutique G-6, Praha 5, Staropramenná 3, MAnděl,
tel. 257 32 45 71, fax 257 32 34 04, bookings@laboutique.cz, www.laboutique.cz. The elegant rooms are
luxuriously furnished with comfy beds, stylish carpets and oak
furniture, with bathrooms equally sumptuous – think subtly
gold walls, excellent showers and oak around the sinks. La
Boutique is just across the river by tram or metro from the
old town, in the upcoming Anděl district. Q39 rooms (22
doubles N50 - 150, 8 apartments N40 - 140, 9 junior suite
N60 - 180). AGKPW hhhh
Liberty E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, MMůstek, tel.
224 23 95 98, fax 224 23 76 94, info@hotelliberty.cz,
www.hotelliberty.cz. The Liberty is a lovely, understated
hotel with elegant furniture and textiles, plus all mod cons
for today’s travellers. Some suites are split-level and views
of the castle can be had. Q32 rooms (1 single N140 - 180,
19 doubles N150 - 210, 9 triples N200 - 265, 3 suites N270
- 310). ABDFGKLPRU hhhh
Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl, tel.
257 15 11 11, fax 257 15 31 31, hotel.prague@moevenpick.com, www.movenpick-prague.com. The hotel’s
rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern style.
Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function
rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q502 rooms (436
doubles N205 - 225, 38 triples N263, 22 suites N350 - 370, 6
junior suites N350 - 370). ABDFGHKLPRTU
hhhh
April - May 2007
23
24
WHERE TO STAY
Maria Prag I-4, Praha 1, Opletalova 21, MMuzeum, tel.
222 21 12 29/222 24 02 29, maria.prag@falkensteiner.
com, www.falkensteiner.com. From a rather chilly greeting at the front desk, the other staff prove as friendly as the
décor is stylishly designed. Warm rooms have minibar and
a safe in a decidedly Japanese theme, with draped cloth,
corner sofas and ingenious light fixtures. The hotel chain’s
resort theme is shown here in the prints on the wall and the
small but gorgeous wellness spa in the basement. Lovely.
Q109 rooms (singles N158 - 222, 109 doubles N168 - 232).
ADFGKLPR hhhh
Maximillian F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 14, MNám. Republiky, tel. 225 30 31 11, fax 225 30 31 10, reservations@
maximilianhotel.com, www.maximilianhotel.com. A
beautiful hotel has been improved upon with an aesthetically-pleasing fusion of contemporary, art deco, light, wood,
chrome and more. Luxury (floatation tanks and Sabai Thai
massage on site) and elegance (Philippe Starck bathtubs and
the best mod cons). Simply delightful, darling. Q71 rooms
(6 singles N133 - 253, 64 doubles N148 - 296, 1 suite N298
- 398). AGHKPRUW hhhh
Metamorphis F-3, Praha 1, Malá Štupar tská 5,
MMůstek, tel. 221 77 10 11, fax 221 77 10 99, hotel@
metamorphis.cz, www.metamorphis.cz. This charming
hotel is tucked away in Týnsky dvůr, one of the most picturesque squares in the Old Town. In keeping with the locale, the
interior is just lovely: all chandeliers and antique beds in the
bedrooms. However, things get a bit garish in the restaurant
downstairs. Q24 rooms (singles N156 - 229, 19 doubles
N166 - 239, 3 suites N186 - 269, 2 apartments N186 - 269).
ABGHKLPR hhhh
Mucha J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 26, MFlorenc, tel.
222 31 90 47, fax 224 81 66 41, mucha@avetravel.cz,
www.avehotels.cz. From the relaxed radio-filled lobby to
the elegant antique-filled rooms, Mucha’s fabulous art deco
work is very much in evidence, while friendly staff adds to the
experience. Religious art seems to be favoured décor in some
rooms. Benefiting price-wise for its slightly out-of-the-way
location, it is still exceedingly central. Q38 rooms (3 singles
N114 - 203, 29 doubles N136 - 238, 6 triples N163 - 286, 1
quad N188 - 349). ADFHKPRU hhhh
Novotel Praha City I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 38, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. 221 10 49 99, fax 221 10 48 88, h3194@
accor-hotels.com, www.accor-hotels.com. A quality
Novotel hotel in a peaceful side street, at walking distance
or a few stops by tram from the Old Town. Expect modern,
functional rooms, a bar and restaurant and good business
services. Q146 rooms (145 triples N134 - 181, 1 suite
N295). ABCDFGHKLPRTU hhhh
WHERE TO STAY
Prague Inn E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 15, MMůstek, tel.
226 01 44 44, fax 226 01 45 55, hotel@hotelpragueinn.
cz, www.hotelpragueinn.cz. Décor in rooms has a funky
Japanese feel in a Tarantino kind of way. Low beds and tables,
smoked glass doors, clean simple interiors make a cool atmosphere. Minibar and safe in all rooms, plus a massive labyrinth
of a bar and restaurant downstairs. Q34 rooms (singles
N110 - 210, 32 doubles N110 - 220, triples N150 - 250, 2
apartments N240 - 385). AGKLPRU hhhh
U Brány A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 21, MStaroměstská,
Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony I-4, Praha 1, Vá-
U Krále Karla A-2, Praha 1, Úvoz 4, MMalostranská, tel.
clavské nám. 41, MMuzeum, tel. 221 45 41 11, fax
221 45 44 45, reception@ramadaprague.com, www.
euroagentur.cz. International-quality rooms decked out in
fresh colours in a new, modern hotel. The rooms, stacked
in six floors above a huge bookshop, face lively Václavské
náměstí or a calm courtyard. Q96 rooms (singles N150
- 240, doubles N160 - 250, 9 apartments N192 - 295, extra
bed N48 - 80). AGHKLPRU hhhh
Rezidence Lundborg C-1, Praha 1, U Lužického
semináře 3, MMalostranská, tel. 257 01 19 11, fax
257 01 19 66, rezidence@lundborg.cz, www.lundborg.
cz. It took over a year to renovate this old house to a perfect
balance between the historic, and the best of the present
day. Judith Bridge, precursor to that teenaged Charles Bridge,
makes up the floor and walls of the café. Jacuzzis and full
PC/internet packages are found in every apartment. Q13
rooms (4 suites N170 - 250, 6 apartments N220 - 750, 3 junior
suites N160 - 240). ABGHKPR hhhh
Roma B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 24, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 68
90, fax 257 32 10 95, recepe@hotelroma.cz, www.hotelroma.cz. The tram and tourist bustle of Ujezd is left behind
immediately on entering the atrium lobby of the Roma. Deep
leather couches, subdued lighting and a shark swimming
lazily around its large tank are an appropriate introduction to
the classically minimalist rooms. Q87 rooms (74 doubles
N128 - 157, 8 suites N171 - 202, 5 junior suites N149 - 179).
ADFGKLPR hhhh
tel. 257 53 12 27/257 53 40 50, fax 257 53 27 67,
info@ubrany.cz, www.ubrany.cz. Sleep alongside the
president at this comfy hotel just down from the castle. The
rooms are all large, yet manage a certain degree of coziness
due to the décor’s concentration on dark woods and earth
tones. Q17 rooms (3 singles N100 - 150, 3 doubles N117
- 177, 4 triples N133 - 210, 3 quads N133 - 217, 3 suites N133
- 217, 1 apartment N200 - 283). AHKL hhhh
257 53 12 11, fax 257 53 35 91, ukrale@iol.cz, www.
romantichotels.cz. This family-run hotel in what was a Gothic
building belonging to Benedictine monks offers the modern
service you would expect, along with stunning décor. Q19
rooms (singles N127 - 220, 16 doubles N125 - 248, triples N189
- 293, 3 suites N269 - 282). AKP hhhh
U Páva C-2, Praha 1, U Lužického semináře 32,
upava@romantichotels.cz, www.romantichotels.cz. The
Peacock is situated on Kampa Island and has discreet but
opulent service. All suites have a view of the castle. Q27
rooms (singles N153 - 223, 19 doubles N160 - 240, 8 suites
N250 - 273). AGHKPRU hhhh
U tří pštrosů B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 12,
www.upstrosu.cz. Nestled in a beautiful building under
Karlův most. In the 15th century, this was Prague’s first
coffee house and it was also one of the first hotels to really
take off after the Velvet Revolution. Gaze upon a medieval
fresco when you rest. Q18 rooms (5 singles N120 - 230,
10 doubles N155 - 265, 3 suites N195 - 305, extra bed N38).
ABGHKLPR hhhh
U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 166,
hotel@zlatastudna.cz, www.zlatastudna.cz. Sumptuous rooms are set in an antique house on a fairy-tale street
just below the castle. The restaurant on the top floor offers
fantastic panoramic vistas. Q20 rooms (17 doubles N162
- 237, 2 suites N232 - 330, 1 junior suite N195 - 263). AB
GKPR hhhh
Waldstein
B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnské nám. 6, MMalostranská, tel.
257 53 39 38, fax 257 53 19 73, waldstein@avetravel.
cz, www.avehotels.cz. This charming hotel has an excellent
location for exploring the castle and Staré Město. The beautiful rooms have antique furniture and breakfast is served in a
renaissance cellar. The hotel also has two excellent cheaper
annexes nearby. The lower prices for doubles are for single
occupancy. Q15 rooms (9 doubles N160 - 343, 6 triples
N207 - 356). A hhhh
Yasmin
F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12, MMuzeum, tel.
234 10 01 00, fax 234 10 01 01, info@hotel-yasmin.
cz, www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabulous designer hotel is
all very tactile, with sleek furniture, jasmine flowers etched
along floors and glass dividers, silver globes hanging from
the ceiling and odd furry and smooth triffid-like objects towering over you. A subtle green dominates the room colour,
each has a huge mirror so you can look as good as it does,
flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in the newer annex
have skylights while the suite boasts a walk-in closet. Some
rooms have no shower, tub only so check if you care. Q198
rooms (187 doubles N220 - 280, 11 suites N260 - 340).
ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh
Seven Days I-5, Praha 2, Žitná 46, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.
222 92 31 11, fax 222 92 32 22, info@hotelsevendays.
cz, www.hotelsevendays.cz. Enter the opulent lobby of this
new hotel and be greeted not only by the doorman, but also
by chubby cherubs looking down on you from above. Pink
and white are popular colours here – like living in a perpetual
Valentine’s Day – but the rooms are decorated with more
conservative and elegant greens and golds. Check out the
attic fitness centre. Q50 rooms (44 doubles N125 - 225, 2
suites N285 - 405, 4 junior suites N220 - 320). ADFG
KLPRT hhhh
Sieber K-5, Praha 3, Slezská 55, MNám. Míru, tel.
224 25 00 25, fax 224 25 00 27, reservations@sieber.
cz, www.sieber.cz. Business hotels often lack charm, but
Sieber defies the rules by not only offering generously sized
rooms, but also by adding those important extras like chocolates and fresh fruit in each room. Q20 rooms (13 doubles
N99 - 165, 3 suites N139 - 189, 4 junior suites N129 - 178).
AGHKLP hhhh
Trinidad C-1, Praha 1, U Železné lávky 14, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 01 87, fax 257 53 02 10, residence@trinidad.cz, www.trinidad.cz. Florid luxury apartments with views
of the castle or cosy rooms in this faux-antique plush place with
all the amenities you’d expect from a hotel plus a Caribbean
themed restaurant and bar. Q18 rooms (1 single N60 - 135,
10 doubles N70 - 165, triples N80 - 200, 3 suites N80 - 145, 4
apartments N100 - 270). ABGKP hhhh
April - May 2007
25
26
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO STAY
Archibald City
I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 33, MKarlovo nám., tel. 234 65 28 00,
fax 234 65 28 10, zitna@archibald.cz, www.archibald.
cz. Seven floors of identikit rooms, but the Archibald is good
in its class. Rooms contain all the conveniences you want in
your home from home, plus double-glazing ensures all are
sound proofed from the busy thoroughfare. Multi-lingual,
friendly and efficient staff rounds off a pleasing though sterile
experience. The cheaper price is for single use. Q79 rooms
(2 singles N99 - 130, 72 doubles N99 - 160, 5 triples N129
- 190). AHKLPRTU hhhh
Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavní nádraží,
tel. 222 78 25 17/222 78 11 87, fax 222 78 03 47,
ariston@europehotels.cz, www.hotelariston.cz. Rooms
at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although it may
seem far from the centre, it’s just a couple of tram stops away.
Q61 rooms (4 singles N50 - 100, 44 doubles N70 - 133, 12
triples N90 - 140, 1 suite N93 - 187). AGHKU hhh
Zlatá hvězda A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 48, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 28 67, fax 257 53 36 24, hvezda@
ok.cz, www.hotelgoldenstar.com. Rooms at this beautiful
hotel look onto the bulwark of the castle or down Nerudova
to the Vltava. Rooms with a five in them are the best (on
the corner with large bathrooms and the best views) but for
honeymooners, it has to be room 25. Q26 rooms (1 single
N116 - 210, 23 doubles N130 - 260, 2 suites N163 - 276).
ABKLPU hhhh
Mid-Range
Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 81 10 84, fax 224 81 23 78, info@hotel-atlantic.
cz, www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on a site that was
a roadside inn in the 17th century. Today that road is a bit
noisier, so if you are a fitful sleeper, ask for a room at the
back. The Atlantic has renovated its interiors which are now
sleek, chic and classy. Excellent value for being so close to
the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles N73 - 110, 52 doubles
N97 - 129, 25 triples N112 - 158, 2 quads N141 - 187).
AGHKLRU hhh
Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVltavská, tel. 220 10 61 11, fax 233 37 23 68, prague@
belvedere-hotel.com, www.hotelbelvedere.cz. Situated
in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the castle, the
Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a high level
of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms come
with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the fourstar executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms (6
singles N53 - 88, 113 doubles N71 - 118, 32 triples N89 - 148,
1 quad N89 - 148). AGHKLU hhhh
Adalbert Praha 6, Markétská 1, tel. 220 40 61 80, fax
Beránek I-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 110, MI.P. Pavlova,
220 40 61 90, office@hoteladalbert.cz, www.hoteladalbert.cz. Serenely nestled in the calm buildings and gardens
of the Břevnov monastery is a delightful hotel of understated
elegance in the furnishings, chocolate coins on pillows and
polite staff. Hear chanting in the church and sleep where under
Communism the Secret Police lived to keep an eye on these
‘subversive’ monks. Q23 rooms (7 singles N75 - 105, 12
doubles N97 - 132, 2 triples N134 - 167, 1 suite N140 - 170, 1
apartment N169 - 202). AGHKLR6UW hhh
tel. 221 59 59 00, fax 221 59 59 61, info@hotelberanek.com, www.hotelberanek.com. Simple furniture in
well appointed rooms which all have TV, hair dryers, fridge,
safe, phone and Wi-Fi. The glass lift looks out over the
back courtyard and isn’t for the faint-hearted. Q80 rooms
(singles N50 - 70, 80 doubles N80 - 110, triples N110 - 145).
AGHKLPUW hhh
Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
51 31 11, fax 222 51 51 58, reception@hotelanna.cz,
www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and
the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and
a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele
looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles
N63 - 77, 10 doubles N83 - 103, 4 triples N110 - 130, 2 suites
N120 - 140). AGRT hhh
Aparthotel Amadeus Praha 3, Dalimilova 10, MFlóra,
tel. 224 22 57 69, fax 224 23 86 47, info@ckvesta.cz,
www.ckvesta.cz. Neat and tidy modern apartments offered
on the lower end of the price spectrum because they don’t
offer too many facilities, but on the whole an attractively
priced option. Q54 rooms (2 singles N42 - 87, 28 doubles
N55 - 110, 10 triples N68 - 126, 4 quads N84 - 138, 10 apartments N90 - 170). AKLU hhh
Centrál F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 8, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 81 27 34, fax 222 32 84 04, central@orfea.
cz, www.orfea.cz. Part of this hotel has been renovated,
with quiet rooms in subtle green pastel colours. There are
no TVs in rooms, but the Centrál is crawling-distance from
Staroměstské nám., there are friendly and multilingual staff
and the hotel allows dogs to stay. Q71 rooms (1 single
N87 - 143, 55 doubles N114 - 166, 15 triples N132 - 184).
AKL hhh
City Pension J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 16, MNám. Míru,
tel./fax 222 52 24 22, hotel@citybell.cz, www.hotelcitybell.cz. Spacious, simple yet comfortable rooms have shared
(economy) and private (classic) bathrooms, satellite TV and
telephones. Two economy rooms share a bathroom and can
be taken as an apartment. The cheaper double is for single
occupancy. Q23 rooms (4 singles N52 - 65, 8 doubles N65
- 86, 4 triples N86 - 95, 2 quads N95 - 103, 5 apartments
N103 - 114). AGLR hhh
Clarion F-2, Praha 1, Hradební 9, MNám. Republiky, tel.
296 39 81 00, fax 296 39 81 50, clarion.recepce@fortunahotels.cz, www.clarionhotel.cz. Well refurbished interior
and building facing the Vltava. This Choice Hotels International
hotel offers well appointed rooms with all amenities of a four star
hotel. It is central, pets are welcome, there are good services
for business clients and the price is excellent. Q93 rooms
(18 singles N104 - 166, 72 doubles N115 - 185, 3 suites N127
- 203, apartments N138 - 222). AHK hhhh
Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
51 31 11, fax 242 44 61 12, reception@hotel-claris.cz,
www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted Vinohrady district,
Claris offers two floors of light, spacious and affordable rooms.
It’s just minutes away from the nám. Miru trams and metro
station, or a 15-minute stroll into the centre, but you’ll also
find many good restaurant options in the immediate neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles N66 - 79, 22 doubles N86
- 106). AGKLPR hhh
Cloister Inn D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 14, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 21 10 20, fax 224 21 08 00, cloister@
cloister-inn.com, www.cloister-inn.com. You might be
forgiven for imagining a monastic enclave of tranquillity - but
what you get is a perfectly reasonable, modern hotel, just a
few minutes walk from Karlův most. Q75 rooms (3 singles
AGHLPU hhh
Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel.
221 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, elysee@europehotels.
cz, www.hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with
all of Prague’s main attractions just a few minutes walk away.
All rooms are well-appointed, spacious, and have luxurious
bathrooms. Q70 rooms (8 singles N73 - 133, 50 doubles
N96 - 180, 12 triples N120 - 223). AGLPU hhh
K AVALÍR
AMOUR
RESIDENCE
C ARLTON
CENTRAL
R E S E R VA T I O N S :
tel: +420 220 106 369
e-mail: booking@europehotels.cz
www.europehotels.cz
Evropa F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 25, MMůstek,
tel. 224 22 81 17, fax 224 22 45 44, info@evropahotel.
cz, www.evropahotel.cz. Amazing... from the outside. The
1905 Art Nouveau façade is the most beautiful on Václavské
náměstí, and the café is lovely. However, the rooms (including
the faux Louis 16th suites) are distinctively scruffy-looking,
some downright shabby furniture and creaky floors. The
cheaper rooms share facilities in the corridor. Q85 rooms
(13 singles N57 - 107, 41 doubles N92 - 142, 26 triples N110
- 178, 5 quads N240). AKL hh
Extol Inn Praha 7, Přístavní 2, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 220 87 65 41, fax 220 80 67 52, info@extolinn.cz,
www.extolinn.cz. Extol’s main clientele is businessmen,
but the large hot tub, gym and sauna make it a good spot to
bring the wife too. Rooms are more like small suites, 3 star
versions have satellite TV, a minibar, telephone and hairdryer.
2 star rooms have none of above but are the same clean,
bright quality. An excellent option, with friendly staff, good
restaurant and, should you need it, an atomic bunker. Q50
rooms (10 singles N46, 22 doubles N71 - 83, 18 triples N92).
ABDFGHKLPU hhh
Green Garden I-6, Praha 2, Fügnerovo nám. 4, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. 224 26 11 81, fax 224 26 22 14, hotelgreengarden@ti.cz, www.hotelgreengarden.cz. Prices
are a bit steep for this hotel sandwiched between the two
busiest roads in Prague, but the staff are helpful and the
rooms are comfortable. Just don’t overdo the bar then
attempt to traverse the main three lane highway to Brno.
Q55 rooms (10 singles N66 - 106, 30 doubles N80 - 133,
10 triples N97 - 150, 5 apartments N113 - 167). ADH
KLU hhh
M LÝN
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A PPIA
B ELVEDERE
E LYSEE
A RISTON
PATIO
Book hotels direct with us and you
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April - May 2007
27
WHERE TO STAY
28
Haštal Hotel F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 16, tel. 222 31
43 35, fax 222 31 43 36, info@hastal.com, www.hastal.
com. This has been a family-run hotel since 1912 (except
during the communist years) in a beautiful 1850 building
that was originally a brewery. With rooms facing St. Agnes
Convent or the rear courtyard, this is a perfectly located, quiet
hotel. Refurbished but retaining some charm, the rooms are
simple and comfortable with satellite TV, phone, minibar and
hairdryer. Q24 rooms (4 singles N75 - 102, 20 doubles N92
- 154). ABGJKLR hhh
Hotel 16 I-6, Praha 2, Kateřinská 16, MI. P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 92 06 36, fax 224 92 06 26, hotel16@hotel16.
cz, www.hotel16.cz. Small, functional and very friendly.
Hotel 16 actually has 13 clean rooms to offer just behind
the small Botanical Gardens, which is actually a far less
glamorous location than it sounds although it is a pleasant,
understated place to rest your head. Q13 rooms (2 singles
N76 - 83, 5 doubles N103 - 113, 6 junior suites N116 - 153).
ABGHKLPTU hhh
Hotel Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 40/857, MAnděl, tel.
WHERE TO STAY
Tchaikovsky I-6, Praha 1, Ke Karlovu 19, MI. P.
Still no room at the inn?
Julián G-5, Praha 5, Elišky Peškové 11, MAnděl, tel.
257 31 11 44, fax 257 31 11 49, casjul@vol.cz, www.
julian.cz. A pleasant place to rest your weary head as the
rooms (although on the small side) are well-appointed, the
staff are friendly and it is close to the centre. Good for the
business traveller as extras include a British-style sitting
room to relax in after a hard day of meetings. Q32 rooms
(2 singles N80, 17 doubles N90, 11 triples N110, 2 suites
N120). ADFGHKLPRTU hhh
Kavalír Praha 5, Plzeňská 177, MAnděl, tel. 257 21 65
65, fax 257 21 00 85, kavalir@europehotels.cz, www.
hotel-kavalir.cz. A completely refurbished three star hotel
on the main street of Praha 5 with quick and easy access to
the city centre, the Kavalír has lovely rooms. Q50 rooms (2
singles N46 - 80, 39 doubles N60 - 106, 9 triples N77 - 133).
AKLP hhh
251 17 13 10, fax 251 17 13 90, info@hotelandel.com,
www.hotelandel.cz. A homely, quiet hotel by the railway
station and opposite the Staropramen brewery. Fear not,
double glazing keeps the noise out of the sunny, well appointed rooms although you should take a rear courtyard
facing room if you are a light sleeper. Minibar, hair dryer
etc. are standard in their not-so-standard rooms – this is a
converted 1898 residential building so all rooms are unique;
the owner is an architect. Staff are friendly and multilingual.
Q31 rooms (31 singles 2000 - 3450Kč, 31 doubles 2700
- 4350Kč, 31 triples 3000 - 4950Kč, extra bed 300 - Kč).
AGKLP6T hhh
Luník J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 50, MNám. Míru, tel.
224 25 39 74, fax 224 25 39 86, info@hotel-lunik.cz,
www.hotel-lunik.cz. A family run hotel with well equipped
if rather sterile rooms. All have bathrooms, satellite TV and
phones - free internet is available in the lobby. A well-priced
hotel in a good neighbourhood and close to the centre. Your
child costs an extra 200Kč, your dog only 100Kč. Q35
N92 - 139). ABGHKLRT hhh
NEW
Na Zlatém kříži E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám.
Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, MKarlovo
náměstí, tel. 221 50 21 11, fax 221 50 22 23, reception@hotel-pav.cz, www.hotel-pav.cz. Prague is blessed
with another Small Charming Hotel, this time in the New Town,
where three buildings have been merged and beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements with modern
lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the walls and
muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds, a
safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and
the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q82 rooms
(78 doubles 54 - 80Kč, 4 junior suites). PARUKW
Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, MAnděl,
tel. 221 70 17 00, fax 221 70 18 00, www.ibishotel.
com. The third Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates
and facilities in the ever-growing and trendier by the day
area around Anděl. Hard working staff keep smiling and
converse freely in a number of languages. The lobby bar is
busy, which is very uncommon in hotels. An excellent choice
for a comfortable stay across the river. Oh, and your pets are
welcome too. Q228 rooms (singles N64 - 84, 214 doubles
N76 - 96, 12 triples N88 - 108, 2 suites N154). AGH
KLPRTU hhh
INOS Praha 4, Sinkulova 23, tel. 241 43 04 61, fax 241 43
04 60, ww.hotelinos.com. A hotel in residential Prague, the
INOS sits just back from the river below Prague’s second castle,
Vyšehrad. Rooms are comfortable but without many luxuries.
The suite proves to be the best value, breakfast is included and
the website’s driving directions make this a good spot if you
tend to get lost arriving in a foreign city. The cheaper price in
the double room is for single occupancy. Q33 rooms (singles
N40 - 75, 24 doubles N50 - 90, 7 triples N60 - 100, 1 quad N70
- 110, 1 suite N75 - 125). AGKLPR hhh
762/2, MMůstek, tel. 224 21 95 01, fax 222 24 54 18,
info@goldencross.cz, www.goldencross.cz. A relaxed,
pleasing and simply decorated hotel in a beautiful old building.
It gets only three stars because rooms have the original (and
infinitely preferable) wooden floors rather than carpet, while
the Gothic breakfast cellar make this one of the best deals
in the centre. Q8 rooms (4 doubles N100 - 140, 4 suites
N137 - 155). AG hhh
Salvator I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 31 22 34, fax 222 31 63 55, hotel@salvator.
cz, www.salvator.cz. This courtyard-centred hotel is conveniently located, well-priced and friendly, so it’s often full. If you
don’t mind sharing a bathroom you have a better chance of
getting on the guest list. Q34 rooms (17 singles N57 - 107,
17 doubles N28 - 53, 10 triples N24 - 41, 7 suites N27 - 38).
ABKLRT hhh
Sax A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 3, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 12 68, fax 257 53 41 01, hotel@sax.cz,
www.sax.cz. You won’t be surrounded by the crowds here.
This small operation is tucked behind the embassy quarter.
Functional rather than fine, but the staff is very friendly. Q22
rooms (2 singles N94 - 124, 17 doubles N117 - 147, 3 suites
N135 - 170). AGKPU hhh
Tříska K-5, Praha 3, Vinohradská 105, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 73 13, fax 222 72 35 62, info@
hotel-triska.cz, www.hotel-triska.cz. This medium-sized
hotel has been open since 1996 but was renovated in late
2000. The décor is a bit rich for some tastes, but the rooms
are comfortable and the staff friendly. Q57 rooms (singles
N43 - 63, 4 doubles N57 - 77, 12 triples N82 - 105, 5 quads
N99 - 133). GHKLRU hhh
Apartments in Prague A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 8,
Pavlova, tel. 224 91 21 21, fax 224 91 21 23, visit@
hoteltchaikovsky.com, www.hoteltchaikovsky.com.
On a quiet street, this hotel has friendly staff and stylishlyfurnished, spacious rooms. All rooms have doors opening
onto a balcony hall, which overlooks a garden, where you
can while away some time watching cats stalk birds. Q19
rooms (singles N55 - 106, 15 doubles N73 - 119, 4 triples
N88 - 143). AGR hhh
MMalostranská, tel. 608 22 89 99/251 51 25 02, info@
painfo.info, http://apartments-in-prague.org. Choose
from their 14 apartments scattered over convenient locations around the Old Town, Wenceslas Square, Malá Strana
and Vinohrady. Antique and modern furniture fill the central,
1-3 bedroom apartments which have full kitchens and sofa
beds for extra guests. Q14 rooms (14 apartments N65
- 160). AR
U Žluté boty A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 11, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 22 69/257 53 41 96, fax 257 53
41 34, hotel@zlutabota.cz, www.zlutabota.cz. The seven
delightful rooms at U žluté boty run the gamut of styles from
Scandinavian chic and Central European rustic to refined antique. Q9 rooms (1 single N93 - 123, 6 doubles N110 - 140,
1 triple N133 - 163, 1 suite N157 - 187). ABGK hhh
Apartments Oasis CITY I-4, Wenceslas Square 36,
U Klenotníka E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 3, MMůstek, tel.
224 21 16 99, fax 224 22 10 25, info@uklenotnika.
cz, www.uklenotnika.cz. Modern(ish) rooms in an old
house are a bargain at this price because this is as central
as one can possibly get in Prague. Q11 rooms (3 singles
AGPR hhh
U Tří korunek Praha 3, Cimburkova 28, MFlóra, tel.
222 78 11 12, fax 222 78 01 89, hotel@3korunky.cz,
www.3korunky.cz. The greatest benefit to staying in this
small, reconstructed hotel located in the old part of Žižkov
seems to be its close proximity to an abundance of cheap
pubs and the fabulously abstract modernist furniture, which
combines beautifully with wood panelling. Q 58 rooms
(singles N50 - 77, 49 doubles N63 - 117, 9 triples N80 - 150).
AGKLU hhh
U Zlatého jelena E-3, Praha 1, Štupar tská 6,
u.jelena@beetle-tour.cz, www.beetle-tour.cz/jelen. A
wonderful pension tucked away in a courtyard behind Týn
Church; friendly, good value and with some delicious extras.
Rooms are antique and wrought-iron filled. The bathrooms
are luxurious with jacuzzis in a couple of the rooms, a popular
choice for romancing couples. Q14 rooms (14 doubles N81
- 118). AK hhh
MMůstek, tel. 224 210 146, fax 224 247 198, info@
oasiscity.cz, www.oasiscity.cz. The top floors of the Marks
& Spencer building house spanking new basically furnished
apartments, several with balconies facing the sunset, and all
equipped with a kitchen, bathroom and washing machine. Facilities: gym, spinning, yoga, solarium, internet, SPA, children’s
corner and more. Q ( 1-8 person apartments N50 - 220).
ADFHKLSTU
Appia Residences A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova 3, MMalostranská, tel. 257 21 58 19, fax 257 21 53 29, appia@
europehotels.cz, www.appia-apartments.com. 22 sublime apartments with 1-3 bedrooms for long or short stays
in a restored building around a quiet courtyard. An original
chapel pediment is visible in the gables of one section of the
hotel and its interior has been converted into a gorgeous
private events/meeting room. Original stone floors and
wooden beams complement the sumptuous furnishings in
the apartments, and once here, you’ll probably never want
to go home. Q (22 apartments N132 - 264). Breakfast €9.
ABDGHLPRW hhhh
City Information B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 4, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 13 78, info@city-info.cz, www.cityinfo.cz. Four apartments (two in Josefov, Malá Strana and Old
Town end of Charles Bridge) offer accommodation for up to six
people, if you are willing to cram it up a little. Basic kitchen
facilities, linen and maid service included, plus its central and
well appointed. They also provide Prague information based
on links to other websites. Q Single €65-€90, double €70€97, triple €77-€106, quadruple €92-€124 A
Apartments
NEW
Amour Hotel Residence B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské
nám. 5, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 55 78, fax 257 53 55
79, amour@europehotels.cz, www.europehotels.cz. Historical charm and luxurious hospitality in the heart of Malá Strana.
Four buildings dating from 1404 host suites with all mod cons
including washing machines in some. Wooden floors and furniture
complement the original timbers. Orchids and black and white
photography reflect the classical feel of this delightful residence.
Q9 rooms (3 doubles 3100 - 6100Kč, 4 quads 3800 - 7200Kč,
2 apartments 4500 - 8500Kč). PTARGW
Apart Karee J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 43, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 21 08 08, fax 222 21 08 09, karee@seznam.cz,
www.karee.cz. A new, lovely location in leafy Vinohrady, far
from the staggering crowds of Old Town, this reconstructed
building has kept its old world charm, vaulted ceilings and
ancient staircase, and added ten apartments which, while not
luxurious, are well equipped and comfortable. Same facilities
in all apartments, the only difference being castle views and
Wi-Fi in the Superior category. Q10 rooms (10 apartments
N80 - 240). ABGHKLW hhh
April - May 2007
29
30
WHERE TO STAY
Pensions
Accord F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 9, MNám. Republiky, tel.
222 32 86 16, fax 222 32 44 06, info@accordprague.
com, www.accordprague.com. Small pension on one floor
of a central apartment building with large triples facing the
street, and sunny doubles over a bare courtyard. Simple but
satisfying – satellite TV, small bathrooms and comfortable
beds. The lower double price is for single occupancy. Breakfast is from the nearby Red Hot & Blues restaurant. Q11
rooms (singles N53 - 92, 5 doubles N69 - 120, 6 triples N89
- 141, extra bed N17 - 24). AG
Ariva Guesthouse K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 37, tel. 603
91 41 89/608 97 08 75, ariva@centrum.cz, www.arivaguesthouse.com. This beautifully refurbished and stylishly
decorated building in the less than salubrious surroundings of
Žižkov are home to one of Prague’s more unique guesthouses.
Meticulously restored, with bare brick walls, high ceilings
and wooden floors, the rooms here all have quirky design
characteristics and also come with a kitchen. Excellent value
and a lot of eye candy. Q16 rooms (13 doubles N55 - 66, 3
apartments N77). P
Březina I-6, Praha 2, Legerova 41, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 26 67 79, fax 224 26 67 77, info@brezina.cz,
www.brezina.cz. Select floors in two buildings comprise
this friendly, clean and comfortable pension with LAN internet connection in all rooms. Two economy rooms share a
bathroom while (two) standard and (the rest) luxury have
exposed beams and slanted ceilings. Q35 rooms (1 single
N37 - 67, 28 doubles N43 - 73, 9 triples N58 - 88). AB
GHKLP hhh
Castle Steps A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova 10, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 19 41, fax 257 53 29 21, info@
castlesteps.com, www.castlesteps.com. This 400year-old building has expanded the number of suites, rooms
and apartments available and added some great technical
services for the businessmen or web addicted among us.
Discounts are available for long and winter stays and they
have toll free numbers from most European countries. Check
the website for details. Q37 rooms (17 doubles N34 - 64, 1
suite N60 - 92, 20 apartments N57 - 150). RT
Irish Club Pension H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233
37 11 28/602 813 117, www.irishclubprague.com.
Above the friendly folk in the Irish bar are these rooms and one
student dorm that offer basic but cheap beds with some great
services – in addition to being upstairs from the bar of course.
All rooms have TV & DVD, small kitchen and microwave and
Wi-Fi. They’ll rent laptops, local SIM cards, mobile phones and
DVDs to you and help you in, out and around the city. Some
rooms can accommodate up to 5 people. Q (7 doubles N35
- 80, extra bed N10 -, dorm bed N17 - ). RW
WHERE TO STAY
Mušketýr I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, MMuzeum,
tel./fax 296 22 00 00, office@musketyr.com, www.
musketyr.com. An ancient wooden door and worn stone
entrance leads to a veritable labyrinth of rooms and apartments. Most have been renovated, most are split level, all
are comfortable and sleek, and in addition staff are friendly
and the garden is lovely. Prices belie the location a stone’s
throw from the National Museum. For wonderful views, ask
for room 4 or 16. Excellent restaurant too. Q22 rooms
(16 doubles N75 - 279, 6 triples N107 - 214). ABG
KLP6 hhh
Museum Pension I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 15,
MMuzeum, tel. 296 32 51 86, fax 296 32 51 88,
pension-museum@pension-museum.cz, w w w.pension-museum.cz. This is as good as bed and breakfast
gets. A fantastic pension with a central location. The
huge rooms (this is a conver ted school) are set around
a quiet cour tyard in a separate building far from the
busy road ou t front. All are spacious, wi th T V, large
bathrooms, sofas and enormous beds. Q 12 rooms
(singles N50 - 100, 5 doubles N65 - 115, triples N80
- 140, quads N90 - 160, 7 suites N65 - 200). AB
GH6TU hhh
Pension Atelier Art 12 G-2, Praha 6, Na Valech 12,
MHradčanská, tel. 233 32 46 31, pensionatelier12@
centrum.cz, w w w.pensionatelier12.com. Close to
Letná and within sight of one of the old gates of Prague,
this homely pension is friendly, spacious and within walking
distance of the castle, via the lovely gardens. Rooms are
basic but comfortable with some bright colours providing
the bathrooms with additional wake-up value. Plus, it’s in
a quiet neighbourhood with shops and restaurants close
by. Q AIT
U Medvídků D-4, Praha 1, Na Perštýně 7, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 21 19 16, fax 224 22 09 30, info@
umedvidku.cz, w w w.umedvidku.cz. Fancy sleeping
under Gothic rafters and Renaissance ceilings? Well
you need to pay a little more than usual to stay in one
of the rooms here, but then the central location and
the fact it’s attached to a beer hall may be enough to
warrant spending the cash. Q 33 rooms (3 singles
ABGKP hhh
Unitas Pension D-4, Praha 1, Bar tolomějská 9,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 22 18 02, fax 224 21 75
55, unitas@unitas.cz, www.unitas.cz. This is where
former President Havel was detained as a political prisoner. But if you want to sleep in his cell, P6, you need to
book several months in advance. The accommodation
is in the pension and in the nearby hotel. Today only
smoking, drinking and staying out late are banned. Q 36
rooms (31 doubles N40 - 50, 4 triples N50 - 85, 1 quad
N60 - 95). AGL
Hostels
Advantage I-6, Praha 2, Sokolská 11, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 91 40 62, fax 224 91 40 67, reservations@jsc.
cz, www.advantagehostel.cz. Good location, comfortable,
basic but clean rooms and with some of the most helpful
English-speaking staff around. Breakfast is included and next
door is a decent restaurant terrace. Free internet, no curfew,
24hr reception but a lot of stairs if you have big bags… IYH
/ISIC discounts. Recommended. Q26 rooms (2 doubles N27
- 50, 4 triples N36 - 67, 6 quads N48 - 82, 2 apartments N55
- 103, 12 Dorms N10 - 20). AGK
Apple F-2, Praha 1, Králodvorská 16, MNám Republiky,
tel. 222 23 10 50, applehostel@applehostel.cz, www.
applehostel.cz. Fabulous price and location for this friendly
hostel. Right behind Kotva and just a stumble from the lure of
the Old Town, an apple a day keeps the taxi fees away. Rooms
range from doubles to dorms with 12 beds, bathrooms are
shared and all is clean. Breakfast is included, there is a music/
TV room, kitchen, laundry, luggage storage and safety deposit
boxes. Q 24 rooms, 100 beds. 260 - 720Kč. AR
Boathouse Praha 4, Lodnická 1, tel. 241 77 00 51, fax
241 77 69 88, boathouse@volny.cz, www.aa.cz/boathouse. It’s a bit out of town and doesn’t float, but Věra and
Helena will compensate by making you feel very welcome in
this relaxed hostel. Linen, hot showers and satellite TV are
included. Note that only room 8 has real windows. Take tram
N°3 to Černý kůň (22 mins); then it’s a 200m walk down to the
river on an unlit road. Q13 rooms (1 double N12 - 15, 1 triple
N11 - 14, 5 quads N11 - 14, 6 dorm N10 - 14). ABGK
Clown & Bard K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 102, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 64 53, fax 222 71 90 26, info@
clownandbard.com, www.clownandbard.com. In the
heart of Žižkov is this colourfully-named and busy hostel.
Facilities include money exchange, safe, laundry and even a
hairdresser. The bar is a popular spot for guests and expats
and there are plenty of nightspots in the area to explore too.
Breakfast not included. Q Beds 250 - 450Kč. K
Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. Míru,
tel. 267 26 76 00, fax 267 26 76 01, info@czech-inn.cz,
www.czech-inn.com. From some of the makers of Sir Toby’s
and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is the future of backpacking, we
hope… the custom iron bedsteads and furniture, stylish fixtures,
famous shower heads, café and wow-split-level apartments have
already made the international press, even the 10 bed dorm is
spacious. All beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary. Q33 rooms (12 doubles N50 - 57, 2 triples N58 - 65, 8
apartments N68 - 157, dorms N14 - 15). ABGKU
Extol Inn Praha 7, Přístavní 2, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 220 87 65 41, fax 220 80 67 52, info@extolinn.cz,
www.extolinn.cz. Rooms are more like small suites, 3 star
versions have satellite TV, a minibar, telephone and hairdryer.
(There are two dedicated handicapped rooms.) 2 star rooms
have none of above but are the same clean, bright quality. An
excellent option, with friendly staff, good restaurant, breakfast
included and, should you need it, an atomic bunker. Q82
N62 - 76). ABFHKLPU hh
Golden Sickle H-5, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 10, MMůstek,
tel. 222 23 07 73, stay@goldensickle.com, www.goldensickle.com. A huge labyrinth of dorms, rooms and rather
nice apartments around a picturesque courtyard comprise
this 2004 award-winning hostel. Its central location somewhat
justifies the relatively high prices. Note though that dorms are
large and bathrooms limited if beds are full. Towels, sheets,
storage and kitchen facilities provided. Q19 rooms (1 double
36 - 56Kč, 2 triples 50 - 100Kč, 3 quads 66 - 117Kč, 5 apartments 50 - 117Kč, 8 dorm beds 12 - 24Kč). ABGKL
Chilli House H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 7, MKarlovo nám.,
tel. 603 11 91 13, fax 251 17 13 90, info@chillihouse.cz,
www.chillihouse.cz. In an old residential building, the dorms
(max 8 beds, some bunks) are in what were apartments, so
each approx. 20 bed section has a kitchen, two bathrooms and
internet but little storage space and no lockers as yet. Comfortable, friendly and so central you barely need to stagger home.
Q (quads N350 - 600, 110 dorm beds N300 - 400). R
Miss Sophie’s I-5/6, Praha 2, Melounová 3, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. 296 30 35 30, fax 296 30 35 31, reservation@
miss-sophies.com, www.miss-sophies.com. A hostel
for the discerning budget traveller, Sophie’s has deluxe yet
spartan rooms. Concrete floors and blank walls but designer
bathrooms with delicious showers. Bag lockers on wheels,
and a cigar club-style common room. Free internet, but no
kitchen or breakfast. Q14 rooms (2 singles N30 - 42, 5
doubles N42 - 49, 4 triples N49 - 59, 3 apartments N38 - 73,
21 dorm beds N11 - 14). ABGU
Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 2,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 82 90 58, oldpraguehostel@
seznam.cz, www.oldpraguehostel.com. Award-winning
hostel slap bang in the thick of Prague’s nightlife. All entrances
are key-coded for security, dorms (max. 8 beds) have lockers and are fairly cramped, but hey, all you’re going to do is
sleep in there. Plus free internet, TV/DVD lounge, kitchen,
breakfast and linen, a 24 hour reception and very friendly
staff – the owner’s grandmother did all the artwork. Q 20
rooms. Doubles €36 - 48, Triples €45 - 57, Quads €60 - 70.
Dorms €16 for bed. G
Sir Toby’s Praha 7, Dělnická 24, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 283 87 06 35, fax 283 87 06 36, info@sirtobys.com,
www.sirtobys.com. A friendly, excellently-run independent
hostel. It’s out of the centre, but prices are good, transport
connections abound, and it’s two blocks from Mecca club.
Whether you want a dorm or a room with private bathroom,
they have it. Plus garden, bar, full kitchen, internet and informative, knowledgably staff. Q27 rooms (1 single N35, 4
doubles N40 - 45, 4 triples N47 - 54, 6 quads N50 - 63, 12
dorms N9 - 12). ABG
Sokol B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská, tel.
257 00 73 97, www.sokol-cos.cz. No smoking – except on
their fabulous roof terrace overlooking the adjacent Kampa
Island, river and castle – in this hostel in a school building,
hence the name. Dorms are large, clean and every bed gets
a locker. No breakfast, no laundry, no internet, but 24hr service, cheap and central, plus snacks and drinks at reception.
Doubles are in the attic and small. Q (3 doubles N700 - 900,
100 dorm beds N300 - 350). BGL
Travellers’ Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 82 66 62, fax 224 82 66 65, hostel@
travellers.cz, www.travellers.cz. The central location,
internet access, laundry, baggage storage and no curfew
makes this the backpacking hedonist’s number one choice.
Q44 rooms (6 singles N37, 6 doubles N21, 17 triples N16, 11
quads N15, 4 apartments N80 - 117). AGKLU
April - May 2007
31
32
RESTAURANTS IN THE OLD TOWN
This chapter only reviews our selection of restaurants in the
Old Town & New Town, the well-touristed area between
the river and Wilsonova road at the National Theatre. For
dining in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná &
Holešovice and Smíchov & Anděl turn to pages 58 - 70.
Afghan
Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222
32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, especially if it
happens to be the chilli chutney or a large plate of aubergines
swimming in butter and salt. Ariana’s Afghan is slightly spicy,
and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. The portions may be a
tad underweight but great Eastern cuisine, at better prices than
most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 250Kč). AT
Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 14,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 23 54 52. Unassuming in appearance, perhaps like the city it’s named after, it’s the food and
the pleasant courtyard seating at this Afghan restaurant that
draws in the Czech and foreign crowds. The short menu lists
among others kebabs, kofta (spicy meatballs) and ashak, a
delicious dough pocket stuffed with beef, leek, yoghurt and
mint. Don’t forget to try the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin dessert
before you leave. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. ABP
American
Buffalo Bill’s H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, tel.
224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A clear example of how
the West has won in Prague, BB’s is an American-style restaurant decorated like a saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood
could meet for drinks. Although classic barbecued ribs and
burgers are offered, Bill’s true speciality is Tex-Mex food in the
form of burritos, enchiladas and, the crowning achievement of
its genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks can be had, but
the glasses are so large you probably won’t dare have more
than one. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). APT
Red Hot & Blues F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 12, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 32 33 64. A cool, tiled space with a
pleasant courtyard (heated in winter) in the city centre serves
up good brunches and a selection of Tex-Mex and cajun
dishes at medium prices. There is live music every night, the
lunchtime deals are great value, and the weekend brunch is
one of the most popular in Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
(190 - 300Kč). ABE
Brewery restaurants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
R Internet W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly
Novoměstský pivovar I-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 20,
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 24 48, www.npivovar.cz. A
340-seat restaurant, the New Town Brewery, not surprisingly, serves its own brews. This could easily have become
a theme restaurant, because it can and does cater to large
parties, so come early or book ahead. Lots of smoked meat
and traditional dishes. Try the pork knuckle. QOpen 10:00
- 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (160 - 500Kč).
ABEGPTU
Pivovarský dům I-5, Praha 2, Lipová 15, MKarlovo
Argentinean
La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior to the
Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled
Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy
a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you’re purchasing a ticket to Argentina. Within the expected rustic décor
and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best
and actually remain friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 01:00. (150 - 350Kč). AGPTU
La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 31 15 12, www.argentinarestaurant.
cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine with added
spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique swing seats at
the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the signature Pampas-raised Argentinean beef cooked to perfection (asado)
at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking winter garden,
sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, this luxurious new
addition to Prague’s fine dining scene is set to cruise forward.
QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč). AEGIP
Bakeries
Bakeshop Diner E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaromětská,
tel. 222 31 68 23, www.bakeshop.cz. Landing a sandwich
here may strain your arm muscles, as they are seriously
weighed down with fresh fillings. You can spend an arm and
a leg on a variety of other delicious baked goods and salads.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. (90 - 130Kč). S
nám., tel. 296 21 66 66, www.gastroinfo.cz. The aptly
named Brewery House bends the Czech brewing tradition to
new and exotic heights (read: banana beer). If you’d like to
sample all of the brews on offer without getting plastered,
ask for the small samples for only 10Kč each. This popular
bar also serves excellent Czech dishes including venison.
Service can be surly and food on the stale side. QOpen
11:00 - 23:30. (95 - 230Kč). AGP
Potrefená husa E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 5, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 66 26, www.potrefenahusa.wz.cz. It’s a hospoda, Jim, but not as we know it. The new generation has
landed, complete with Brazil-the-movie-type TV screens, a bar
rail at the long bar for comfort, and very good, very large, and
very popular food (from fallow deer to jambalaya), although
the onus remains on ‘the culture of drinking’. QOpen 11:30
- 01:00. (50 - 350Kč). Also at H-5, Praha 2, Resslova 1; K-5,
Praha 3, Vinohradská 104; Praha 6, Verdunská / Terronská
11; Praha 5, Anděl City. AP
U Fleků H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 11, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 40 19, www.ufleku.cz. A tourist trap since they
started brewing their dark, rich aromatic beer on this spot
in 1499. The brew is worth the trip in itself, and should be
accompanied by hearty pub food. The loud and boisterous
crowds of tourists and locals are a show worth watching.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (85 - 320Kč). A
U Pinkasů E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. 16,
MMůstek, tel. 221 11 11 50, www.upinkasu.cz. The
presence of locals is encouraging in this beer hall whose not
unimpressive claim to fame is that of being the first pivnice
in Prague to have Pilsner Urquell on draught. In today’s establishment you’ll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of
beer swilling and sausage eating. More elegant no-smoking
rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional,
is uninspired. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB
Culinaria E-4, Praha 1, Skořepka 9, MMůstek, tel.
224 23 10 17, www.culinaria.cz. Gourmet sandwiches,
salads, quiches, pasta, cookies and more in a classy eat in,
take out or buy the ingredients and cook at home place. Wash
it all down with a vegetable or fruit smoothie, hot chocolate
or gourmet coffee and tea. After 18:00 sandwiches are half
price. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00
- 17:00. (70 - 95Kč). S
Czech
Mansson E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 8, MStaroměstská, tel.
222 31 06 20. Bread, sandwiches and sweets fit for a king, or at
least good enough for Prague’s top restaurants which order their
supply here. Grab the newspaper and settle down in the designer
café for the excellent coffee and one of the Danish specialities.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. G
224 94 60 63. Beograd serves up delicious Czech staples,
plus a list of specials that illustrate beautifully the art of culinary fusion. For the drinkers, Krušovice tmavé sits in copper
tanks in the midst of diners. A wonderful new addition to the
burgeoning chic Czech hospodas. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(130 - 280Kč). AP
Belgian
Bredovský dvůr F-4, Praha 1, Politických vĕzňů 13,
MHlavní nádraží, tel. 224 21 54 28. A modern version of
the Czech hospoda, Bredovský dvůr delivers cellar ambience
dimly lit by funky lights, a long iron bar, cool furniture and
excellent kitchen. An extremely popular lunchtime attracts
the crowds until 14:00. The kitchen mimics the funky and
old world fusion of the décor, with Czech dishes tweaked by
international additions. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AP
Les Moules E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 19, MStaroměstská,
Pavel Vítek
tel. 222 31 50 22, www.lesmoules.cz. Superb Belgian
restaurant and beer bar with authentic Flemish cuisine, modern
fusion or select one of the traditional favourites like ‘bull’s glands.’
Belgian beers are also plentiful. Did we mention that they serve
gigantic steaming pots of mussels, flown daily from Brussels?
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (300 - 400Kč). ABP
Beograd H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 5/12, MMůstek, tel.
Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel.
224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. The menu includes all
the Czech standards including pork knuckle and rabbit, but
Celnice also serves some more imaginative and vegetarian
options. Unfortunately, the large space can get noisy when
the downstairs bar turns up the volume later in the evening.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (150 - 335Kč). ABGP
Ferdinanda I-4, Corner of Opletalova & Politických
věznů, MMuzeum, tel. 222 24 43 02, www.ferdinanda.
cz. The food is pretty good with a delicious gulaš and more.
Speedy lunch specials and breakfast menu add to their
staples. Pivovar Ferdinand produces the Sedm Kulí 13 degrees beer apparently named for the seven bullets that killed
Franz Ferdinand - the archduke, not the band. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 250Kč). GW
Kamenný most G-4, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábř. 195,
MStaromětská, tel. 224 09 71 00, www.kamennymost.
cz. A breezy, ambient Czech establishment that sets itself
apart from the mundane with a truly adventurous menu that
hits new levels of creativity. Every evening until 04:00 you can
also enjoy drinks and dancing in the sublime music bar, one
of the city’s most fashionable nightlife locations. A winner.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (180 - 500Kč). ABP
Kolkovna E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 8, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 97 01, www.kolkovna.cz. As big and brassy as
Mae West with a fistful of Viagra, Kolkovna serves quality and
robust family bucket portions on one plate, and tank beer from
the owner, Pilsner Urquell. For all of the above reasons it’s been
packed from day one and there’s little reason to expect that this
will be any different on the day you decide to visit. Reservations
a must. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (160 - 250Kč). AP
Patriot-X I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 3, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 23 51 58, www.patriot-x.cz. This suave location
has much to offer with a comfortable café upstairs and the
cellar restaurant upping the ante with their particular combination of traditional Czech dishes with a Mediterranean twist and
from fresh, bio ingredients. Salad, quiche and sandwiches are
good for a quick meal, while the duck, roast pork, homemade
pasta and fish constitute the quality mains. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00. (140 - 400Kč). ABEGPTU
Beer gardens
The greatest of Czech traditions... once the long cold
winter dissipates, everyone heads for the hills and and
to the two greatest beer gardens in the city.
Letenské sady H-2, Praha 7, Letná Park. Sit in the
dust bowl under the trees and slurp beer from plastic
cups. One of the roughest and least ready of these particular kinds of places; which is saying quite a lot, but it’s
also one of the most popular - probably because of the
fantastic view across the river of the entire city basking
in the evening sunshine. More decorous food and beer
can be had at the tables under the umbrellas.
Park Café J-5, Praha 2, Riegrovy sady 28, MJiřího
z Poděbrad. Atthe top of the sloping Riegrovy sady park
between Vinohrady and Žížkov is one of the biggest and
most organised beer stations in the city. There’s even
a covered stage for occasional shin-digs, which the multitude of dogs will attempt to drown out with their own
swan song. Football matches on TV and live in the form
of foosball. Q E
April - May 2007
33
Welkome to the 15th Century
34
French
Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.
com. The people that brought you Kampa Park went to great
lengths to create a genuine brasserie in the heart of Prague. The
result is a ‘best of’ amalgam of several Parisian brasseries; a
stunning Belle Epoque room with large windows. Specialising in
delicious fresh seafood (anything from oysters to lobster), game
like rabbit in tarragon sauce and vegetarian onion quiche are also
available. The sommelier has selected several uncomplicated
wines (that can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the
food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). AP
Brasserie M H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 17, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 05 40 70, www.brasseriem.cz. A stunning,
authentic French brasserie from ex-Marriott Executive chef,
Jean-Paul Manzac. This subtly eponymous space is classy
yet laid back – on one visit; jeans and diamonds were being
gastronomically sated. Dishes from the open kitchen are
simple, delicious and classically Gallic. Sublime. Daily specials,
Sunday brunch (695Kč), French wine from 400Kč. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (200 - 650Kč). AGP
Flambée D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, MNárodní třída, tel.
Czech and international
experience gastronomy
Moravian, French, Spanish,
Italian a and Chilean wines
Rytířská 16, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Intimate, exclusive 15th century setting.
Tel.: +420 224 225 873, tel./fax: +420 224 222 623
Piano music every evening
VISA, AMEX, DC, EC/MC, JCB
restaurant@umodreruze.cz
www.umodreruze.cz
Seven Angels D-3, Praha 1, Jilská 20, MMůstek, tel.
Století C-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 21, MNárodní
224 23 43 81, www.7angels.cz. As this has been a restaurant since the 13th century and it’s a good bet it’ll outlast
any and all changes in management. Seven Angels is one of
the most beautiful dining rooms around. Choose from a wide
selection of Bohemian specials: indulge your inner country
gentlefolk instincts with dishes like roast duck, red cabbage,
potato pancake and roast rabbit. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(180 - 550Kč). AEP
třída, tel. 222 22 00 08, www.stoleti.cz. Great value,
lively atmosphere and fantastic service. However, the most
interesting aspect for us is that whilst other restaurants take
Czech food and tack it together with other cuisines to make
an international hybrid, Století is the only one that is seriously
attempting to progress Czech cuisine while keeping it Czech
at the same time. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč).
ABIPTU
Czech out further afield
Perpetuum Praha 6, Na hutích 9, MDejvická, tel.
233 32 34 29, www.cervenatabulka.cz. Prague’s
dedicated duck restaurant, although there are a couple
of non-canard meals available. The duck, and filet mignon
for example, is superbly cooked, as you’d expect; tender,
tasty and with appropriate sides. Deserts should not
be missed either - Czech favourites complement this
local delicacy, the humble duck made great by cunning
chefs. QOpen 11.30 - 23.00. Café hours: Mon - Fri
08.00 - 22.00, Sat 10.00 - 22.00 Closed Sun. (400
- 600Kč). AG
U Bílého lva Praha 6, Bělohorská 79, tel. 220 51
08 56, www.u-bileholva.cz. A complex of recently refurbished pine and rag-rolled rooms; the sort of presentation
that you get in the houses of young professionals with lots
of money and little imagination. That said, the food and
service are both excellent, and the atmosphere remains
that of a Czech pub with a few tweaks of refinement.
The duck with bread and bacon dumplings is fantastic.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (75 - 150Kč). A
224 24 85 12, www.flambee.cz. Late Gothic vaulted
ceilings, a decadent décor, and unrivaled cuisine combine to
make this restaurant a haven for the rich and famous, a place
that no gourmet can resist. Chef Dušan Jakubec has taken
gastronomy to new heights with his sumptuous creations.
The foie gras and glazed rabbit leave you craving more, yet
indulgence is not complete without giving into the sensuality of the vanilla creme brulée. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (750
- 1,780Kč). AEGPT
Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí Re-
publiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 27 70, www.
francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and some
Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award winning
chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make delightful
appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces of art nouveau architecture (the Municipal House building itself) and
interior. Lunch specials and a concert package lower prices
somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Sunday of
each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (600
- 2,000Kč). ABEPU
Chez Marcel F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 12, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 31 56 70. An authentic and sprawling café on a quiet square in Prague: delicious ambience,
service and cuisine from this French-owned gem. Blackboard specials offer escargot and foie gras while the menu
bestows the common people with omelettes and expertly
cooked steaks. Add the people-watching windows, chess
and backgammon boards and distinctly un-Old Town prices,
and this place deserves to be as busy as it often is. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Also at J-6, Praha
2, Americká 20, tel. 222 51 33 40, open 11:30 - 23:00.
(90 - 300Kč). B
La Scene E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 6, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 26 77, www.lascene.cz. A fabulous new
restaurant in an emerging corner of the Old Town. Gourmet
chef Georges-André Rognard conjures up excellent French
food, the limited menu including grilled swordfish steak and
lamb fillet with a crust of gingerbread. La Scene consists of
a lounge-like wine bar, a beautiful dining area and a mellow
champagne club. Q Open 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00, Sat
19:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (350 - 650Kč). AP
U Červeného páva E-3, Praha 1, Kamzíkova 6,
MMůstek, tel. 224 23 31 68, www.ucervenehopava.cz.
Shyly hiding down a passage behind Staroměstské náměstí is
this small set of rooms and passages, great for a quick, tasty
and somewhat different lunch. It can be refreshing to find filled
baked potatoes or pancakes around these parts, although
this is still a very Czech bird, most particularly in the evening.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (250 - 300Kč). AG
U Korbele I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7 (Renaissance Prague
Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 82 24 33. Traditional
wood panelling, decorative Moravian plates, wait staff in
local costume and delicious cuisine for affordable prices are
all reasons to dine at this surprisingly cosy hotel restaurant.
The only deviance from classic Czech fare is the decrease in
the amount of caraway seeds in each dish. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00. (250 - 350Kč). A
U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek,
tel. 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The Blue
Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique setting
to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th
century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350
- 750Kč). AEGP
April - May 2007
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36
Le Saint-Jacques F-3, Praha 1, Jakub ská 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 26 85, www.saint-jacques.
cz. Tiny restaurant filled with pricey but imaginative French
fodder, excellent wine and live piano and violin every night. Q
Open Mon-Fri 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00; Sat, Sun 18:00
- 24:00. (400 - 800Kč). AEGIU
Le Terroir D-3, Praha 1, Vejvodova 1, MNárodní třída,
tel. 222 22 02 60, www.leterroir.cz. The menu is just one
page of superb choices, while the wine selection runs over
500 bottles. Wines can range from 500Kč to the price of a
decent car. Lunch deals mean the hoi polloi can also partake.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (220 - 520Kč). ABP
Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 19 51 95, www.sarah-bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights in Prague
and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is divinely
matched by Chef Jan Mošna’s inspired menues with set
meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot or
rabbit. Visit their famous jazz Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00,
750Kč). Live piano daily. Q Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat
& Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750
- 1,500Kč). AEGP
U Závoje E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 25, MMůstek, tel.
226 00 61 20, www.uzavoje.cz. This classy house of
wine consists of a restaurant, café, wine bar, delicatessen
and accessories shop. The French and international menu is
designed to complement the extensive wine list and includes
a two course daily menu to a six-course gourmet menu. Individually priced dishes are available too. Fabulously decadent,
this is an outstanding rare treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Café
open 10:00 - 22:00. (550 - 1,300Kč). A
Indian
Khajuraho D/E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 19, MMůstek,
tel. 225 77 73 33, www.khajuraho.cz. In the cellar
space of the lovely Iron Gate Hotel is this superlative Indian
restaurant unashamedly catering to five star standards.
Chefs specialise in various cuisines and dessert, clients have
included a Bollywood star, politicians and monarchs sampling
their delicate taste sensations of tender lamb, vegetable,
chicken and thali dishes. The murgh, so often bland instead
of subtle, remains imprinted on the mind long after the zalebi
and Masala tea has been savoured. Classical Indian music
and dance accompanies on occasion, and do try the Indian
wine. A stunning newcomer to the scene. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (500 - 1,400Kč). AEGS
International
Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. For a taste of
medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceilings of this small
restaurant in an ancient building across the narrow street
from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, venison, and classic
European dishes or just opt for the Old Town plate consisting of pork, roast duck, sausages, dumplings and cabbage.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 400Kč). ABP
Červená tabulka I-3, Praha 1, Lodecká 4, MFlorenc, tel. 224 81 04 01, www.originalart.cz. A brightly
renovated villa tucked into a corner of the nether reaches of
Prague 1 houses this excellent restaurant. The food is very
good, the service is great, and the setting just fabulous.
Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (250 - 600Kč ).
AEGPTU
Šípek Bistrot D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 9, tel. 222 32
39 48, www.sipekbistrot.com. As with the small Šípek Deli
next door, arty glass hams and sausages hang above the
counter. The colourful and twisted work of Czech glass artist
Borek Šípek may not appeal to everyone, but we all agree
the food served at his restaurant is very good indeed. Surrounded by Šípek design (furniture, chipped-edge porcelain,
candleholders and the naughty toilet signs) you’ll be served a
choice of just two set lunch menus and a more complete set of
dinner options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (400 - 800Kč).
Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. The quality
of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic,
oak-panelled line of Allegro’s interior as well as by the range
of delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their
view of the Vlatava and castle can’t be beaten, although
their prices can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague.
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). AEGPU
Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz.
This classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not
over-priced culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try
the carpaccio con tartufi to begin and if you make it past
the long list of homemade pasta, the steak and salmon
are both expertly cooked. Chocolate fondue for dessert is
a great finish for a great meal in a great restaurant. Check
out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (120
- 350Kč). AGP
Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18,
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 14 43, www.pfd.cz. A fantastic setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the castle and
the Vltava, and a classic atmosphere sets the scene for you
to feel dead posh if you want and if you can afford it. Chef
Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow deer with rose
hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade spätzle and wild
mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays. Q Open 12:00
- 15:00, 17:30 - 23:00; Sun 11:00 - 15:30, 19:00 - 23:00.
(1,000 - 2,000Kč). ABEGPTU
SUNDAY BRUNCH
AT SARAH BERNHARDT
Your Stylish Sunday Oasis
EVERY SUNDAY
12 AM. – 4 PM.
H O T E L
P A R I S
U Obecního domu 1, CZ - 110 00 Praha 1
tel.: +420 - 222 195 195, fax: +420 - 224 225 475
booking @ hotel-paris.cz, www.hotel-paris.cz
AGNES RESTAURANT
Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Marriott
Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 88 12 12, www.
marriott.com. This elegant hotel restaurant serves up a wide
variety of diverse and delicious cuisine including American,
Italian and, of course, Czech. Read some foreign papers and
enjoy anything from duck and spinach salad to surf and turf.
Alternatively, listen to live piano music and sample one of its
all-you-can-eat seafood, Italian or sushi buffets for the evening.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (300 - 500Kč). AE
Dinitz Café I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 31 40 71, www.dinitz.cz. Art Deco chic
permeates the décor of this new Grand Café-style restaurant
and bar. With homemade bread, butter and condiments and
fresh ingredients, the sandwiches, steak, salmon, pasta is all
good and all served till 02:00. Great atmosphere and cuisine
make this one cool spot from breakfast to bed. QOpen
10:00 - 03:00. (100 - 300Kč). AEHPS
HOT I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, MMuzeum, tel. 222
24 72 40. Popular terrace and tres chic interior is this HOT
by name and hot by nature venue from Tommy Sjöö (Barock,
Pravda). Asian fusion restaurant with a Czech and Thai chef,
delicious Thai specialties (ask for it hot), homemade pasta,
sushi, sashimi and meat dishes. Home made pasta from the
lunch specials (195Kč) are tasty, light and come served in funky
bowls. Cocktails and extensive wine list keep you there late.
QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. (200 - 700Kč). AB
”...come and enjoy summer under the 100-year-old
acacia tree in our garden...”
HOTEL CASA MARCELLO****
¤ásnovka 783, CZ-110 00 Praha 1
Tel.: +420 - 222 311 230, Fax: +420 - 222 313 323
Booking@casa-marcello.cz, www.casa-marcello.cz
April - May 2007
37
38
La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 18, MNám.
Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, tel. 222
tel. 272 94 13 40, www.kolibapraha.cz. Koliba Praha
sits high on a hill, providing panoramic views of the city
while they serve up some delicous and well priced dishes.
Steak, chicken and fish join classic Czech specialties.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABEPU
Republiky, tel. 222 31 12 34, www.ladegustation.cz.
This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant from the
Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant with an
open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set menus
intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche, there
is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier has created a superb wine list. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(945 - 2,450Kč). A
32 62 03. Not just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece (and a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining
room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility, great
high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor shaped like a
box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165Kč and a delicious tagliatelle
with parma ham 245Kč, are very good. Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABGP
La Perle de Prague G-5, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábř. 80,
La Veranda E-2, Praha 1, Elišky Krásnohorské 2,
Food with a view
Koliba Praha Praha 11, Gregorova 8, MRoztyly,
MKarlovo nám., tel. 221 98 41 60, www.laperle.cz.
Here you are nestled in the ginger curls atop Tančící Dům
with a superb view across the Vltava. As you would expect
from the exterior of the building, the design cuts a dash with
clean and modern lines, with a kitchen to match. Prices are
steep, they do have a three-course business lunch at 490Kč.
Q Open Tue - Sat 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:30; Mon 19:00
- 22:30. Closed Sun. (750 - 1,000Kč). ABPU
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 47 33, www.laveranda.
cz. ‘Brave, original, creative, and innovative.’ La Veranda lives
up to its credo, and surpasses it in a style unlike any other
in Prague. The fusion cuisine satisfies the eye as well as the
palate, offering choices that are low on fat. In the ultra modern Zen-like atmosphere, La Veranda touts chef-of-the-year
(2002) Radek David’s creativity. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
16:00 - 23:00. (350 - 500Kč). APT
Petřínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada
Noodles F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12/913,
SOHO+ Praha 4, Podolské nábř. 1, tel. 244 46 37 72,
www.sohorestaurant.cz. Exquisite interior design creates
chiffon-divided private spaces in this fine dining location with a
great terrace down the river at Dvorce. Mussels parmesan (or
any way) make a great starter, your steak is cooked exactly as
you ordered it and there’s a good range of Greek food. Service
was bumbling on our last visit (long waits and disappearing ashtrays) but the food is still worth it. Wine from 300Kč upwards.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (300 - 1,000Kč). PAB
Střelecký ostrov C-4, Praha 1, Střelecký ostrov 336,
tel. 224 93 40 28, www.streleckyostrov.cz. Perched on
the eponymous island halfway Most Legii bridge, this elegant
restaurant pleases weary walkers with affordable lunches while
plying hedonists with wine and food from the gourmet menu. It
has a bright and spacious inside seating area and cosy medieval cellars, but the main draw is the terrace with great views of
rowers and the National Theatre. Mind the enterprising waiters
who will happily and illegally add their own tip to the bill if you’re
not Czech. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. ABGPU
13, tel. 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy.cz.
The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits
halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country
cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional
international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music
accompanies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek
stop. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(160 - 280Kč). AIEB
MMůstek, tel. 234 10 01 10, www.noodles.cz. Now with
a superb summer garden and shortcut through to Wenceslas
Square, the world of noodles is right on our doorstep. Excellent
lunch deals bring people flocking but dinner still needs some
tweaking to attract diners. Italian, Japanese, Thai, Mongolian,
etc. variations available from 99Kč. The gorgeously tactile
interior design of the host (Yasmin) hotel doesn’t distract.
QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (100 - 350Kč). ABLPTW
Rio’s Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Štulcova 2, MVyšehrad,
tel. 224 92 21 56/602 75 10 35, www.riorestaurant.
cz. High on Vyšehrad sits Rio’s, home to an old fashioned
dining area, more relaxed café space and large terrace. The
Mediterranean menu has nine carpaccio varieties, eight
variations of steak tartare (including, bizarrely, a vegetarian
one), spaghetti al dente and fresh fish from France and Scandinavia. A prime spot for lunch, dinner or coffee on the tourist
trail. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (140 - 490Kč). AB
Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, tel.
222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They’re not kidding. With
comfortable designer furniture and steady ambient music,
stress is the last thing on your mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine
dominate the menu, but you shouldn’t pass up a chance to try
one of the delicious Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian.
Highlights include dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity
sightings (Joseph Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie).
Loud live music on Saturday evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (250 - 600Kč). AEIP
Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí
Oliva Praha 2, Plavecká 4, tel. 222 52 02 88, www.
olivarestaurant.cz. The superb Le Bistrot de Marlene is
a hard space to fill, but Oliva, while being a wholly different
restaurant, has managed to keep folks happy with its Mediterranean flair and flavour. The chef from La Perle de Prague
provides a succulent, sense sensation with almost every
dish to counter the somewhat twee interior. Theme nights
with guest chefs, a good wine list and superb olive oils add
to the great service and menu. Tram N° 3, 7, 16, 17, 21 to
Výton. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(150 - 550Kč). A
MStaroměstská, tel. 234 61 41 00, www.hotelpresident.cz. The appropriately named restaurant has panoramic
views of the river, a suitably designed interior and creative
menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served with
mashed potato, monkfish, Tandoori and delicious desserts to
match the good wine list. QOpen 18:30 - 23:30. PTA
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 242 41 87 78, www.tower.cz. This
landmark seems equally loved and hated. Whichever
your decision, the view is tremendous and you can eat
at the restaurant or café while contemplating the reality
of vertigo. Prices are higher than at other, more down-toearth spots. You have to pay the 150/75Kč admission
fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your bill.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350Kč). ALPT
Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5
(InterContinental Hotel), MStaroměstská, tel. 296
63 99 14, www.prague.interconti.com. One the
city’s most renowned restaurants, Golden Prague offers
a changing menu of international and Czech nouvelle
cuisine, business lunches for the more budget conscious
gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied by live jazz.
Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800Kč).
ABEGP
Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantzvonice.
cz. Head to the top three floors of this Gothic bell tower,
complete with 15th century bell. Zvonice is decorated
with giant oak beams and serves everything from snails,
carpaccio, steak and fish to classic Czech dishes. Don’t
miss the view from the gallery up top. Gorgeous and
exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). A
třída, tel. 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featuring
such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded
with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and even
lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss.
The eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow caviar,
escargot, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar,
modern furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320Kč). AP
Vltava H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100,
Noodles from all
around the world
Parnas C-4, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábř. 2, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 23 96 04. A lovely little restaurant on the
Vltava which is proving to be immensely popular with all kinds
of diners who come to enjoy the super international cuisine.
You will too. A non-tourist trap in the most tourist-trapped
of cities, and therefore a joy. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100
- 350Kč). AGP
Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenická 4, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant.cz. A very
risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky guys running
this café/restaurant/club certainly have a point. With great
breakfast deals, the 195-295Kč eat-all-you-can lunch menus
and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening, it certainly
sounds perfect – there’s even a children’s menu. After dark,
the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music and a wide
range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. AGPX
Restaurant Café Bar Noodles (in Hotel Yasmin)
Politických vězňů 12/913, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic
T: +420 234 100 100, F: +420 234 100 125
www.hotel-yasmin.cz, info@hotel-yasmin.cz
April - May 2007
39
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The Czech Menu
The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign
tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual letters, but also because it is a heavily declined language.
Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but
with the following words as a basis, you should be able
to figure out what’s in your mouth.
bez masa
biftek
brambor
domácí
dušené
grilované
guláš
hermelín
hovězí
hranolky
jehněčí
jídelní lístek
jídlo
knedlíky
kuře
losos
na roštu
nápojový lístek
niva
oběd
řízek
ovoce
palačinky
pečené
pivní sýr
plněné
přílohy
polévka
pstruh
ryba
rýže
sekaná
slanina
smažené
smažený sýr
snídaně
svíčková
sýr
špíz
šunka
těstoviny
utopenec
uzené
vařené
večeře
vepřové
vepřové koleno
vinný lístek
zelenina
without meat
beefsteak
potato
home made
steamed
grilled
goulash, the Czech staple
brie, often pickled with garlic
and eaten with beer
beef
chips/french fries
lamb
food menu
food
dumplings
chicken
salmon
roasted
drinks menu
blue cheese
lunch
schnitzel
fruit
crepe
baked
beer cheese, hard and served with
paprika and onion, eaten with beer
stuffed
side dishes
soup
trout
fish
rice
meatloaf; looks awful, tastes good
bacon
fried
fried cheese, surprisingly good
breakfast
beef in cream sauce
cheese
grilled and skewered
ham
pasta
a.k.a. drowned man,
pickled sausage, eaten with beer
smoked
boiled
dinner
pork
pork knee,
particularly carnivorous
wine menu
vegetables
V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. 222
22 11 55, www.pfd.cz. A restaurant and wine bar that is
possibly the best in Prague. Indeed, the best things about it
(apart from the delicious pear-gorgonzola salad, the chocolate
parfait with raspberries and the perfect latte) are the relaxed,
intimate atmosphere, and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and
know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;
17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). AGPU
Zahrada v Opeře I-5, Praha 1, Legerova 75, MMuzeum,
tel. 224 23 96 85, www.zahradavopere.cz. One of the
most stylish restaurants in Prague occupies the brutalist
former parliament building, which, by an ironic twist of fate,
also houses the well-guarded offices of Radio Free Europe.
Its inventive and often extravagantly presented dishes as
well as its proximity to the opera, ensure a loyal dinner crowd
each night.The multilingual staff doesn’t stop pampering until
the fat lady has sung. Now with a new South African inspired
menu and sushi on Thursdays. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (150
- 400Kč). AEPU
Italian
Cicala I-5, Praha 1, Žitná 43, MKarlovo nám., tel. 222
21 03 75. The entrance is nondescript, but once down inside
the cellar restaurant all doubts fade away. This place is good
- especially the plates of steaming cozze (mussles). But there
is more than seafood; great pasta, super wines, service with
charm, smiles and patience, and photos showing the great
and the good dining here. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. Closed
Sun. (120 - 250Kč). AP
dANico E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 21, MNám. Republiky, tel.
222 31 18 07, www.danico.cz. The sleeper hit of Prague,
dANico presents a warm atmosphere, great service and
delicious Italian cuisine. With lamb and swordfish carpaccio,
vegetarian lasagne, home made tiramisu and some 300
Italian wines to complement your meal, this is becoming the
talk about town. Wines from 400Kč to four figures. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. (160 - 470Kč). AGP
Don Giovanni C-3, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 34/208,
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 20 60, www.dongiovanni.
cz. This place has a fantastic view of Charles Bridge and the
castle. As with all Italian restaurants, the food is the thing,
and this is probably the best in town. Choose from starters
such as fresh pappardelle with cream sauce and Parma ham
or fulfilling mains such as scaloppina di vitello al limone o vino
marsala - every bit as tantalising as it sounds. QOpen 11:00
- 24:00. (250 - 450Kč). AEGIPTU
Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, MStaroměstská,
tel. 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, the walls and
vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are a respectable faux
medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and other painted flora
won’t distract you from the menu, which is so extensive that
we gave up halfway through it. If it’s Italian and you want
it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and it’s good. The Balkan
breakfast sounds appealing, but avoid the bruschetta at all
costs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). A
L’Angolo E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 7, MNáměstí Republiky,
tel. 224 82 93 55. A relaxing, upscale Italian “restaurant
lounge” set in a spacious corner building near to the Old Town
square. Diners are lured in by the sight of display cases with
tasty-looking pasta and vegetable dishes, and some deserts. Apart from well-prepared Italian meat and fish dishes,
L’Angolo also has a wood-fired pizza oven adjacent to the
cellar seating area. A sister restaurant of the excellent Kogo,
L’Angolo has the impeccable service and great food that we
expected. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. ABP
Japanese
Hokkaido D-4, Praha 1, Národní 23, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 21 18 88. Simply decorated in bamboo, paper
lamps and knock-off samurai swords, this small sushi bar
offers hot dishes as well as sashimi and sushi for exorbitant
prices considering the quality. If nothing else, a small shop is
also available which sells a great selection of Asian spices,
oils, beer and other cooking supplies. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(250 - 350Kč). AS
Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper
lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly
Asian men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful
interior is as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean
and Japanese specialities such as pibimbap and loads of
sushi. A celebrity has left a saucy slogan next to his picture
in mysterious characters, but it’s all Korean to us. The food
is good, but the servings could be bigger for all the cabbage
one has to pay. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300
- 500Kč). APT
Made In Japan D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnická 4,
MStaroměstská, tel. 608 74 96 50, www.madeinjapan.cz. The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures
the raw tourist with a wide and colourful menu including
sashimi and nigri, roe and eel, while the sister restaurant
provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two
get one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the
sushi bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytířská
10, tel. 224 235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500Kč).
AGPS
Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serving up spicy
kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean specialities such
as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed pigs’ feet. If that
doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr karaoke room
might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; 18:00 - 23:00
Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A
Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, MMůstek, tel.
Millhouse Sushi-Kaitan F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 71 60 03. In a bright shiny
space, bright and shiny Japanese plates whizz around on a
belt so that you can select which small bright and shiny food
you want. The savings on staff costs must be impressive.
The second venue is a take away kiosk with good, well priced
sushi plates. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also at I-4, Světozor
Pazasz, open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (200
- 1,000Kč). AP
224 21 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best
restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location,
service, consistent high quality food, and ambience. The
atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and
shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best
wine lists in the city. We love it. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 (Slovansky Dům). (120
- 250Kč). ABPTU
Miyabi H-5, Praha 1, Navrátilova 10, MKarlovo nám.,
tel. 296 23 31 02, www.miyabi.cz. If you like your Japanese
a little more relaxed (and let’s face it, they are very formal),
then this intimate restaurant offers a café style at the front
of the house and private rooms at the back. Well-presented
food aimed at the non-expert. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (250 - 500Kč). AGU
SushiPoint F-3, Myslbek Centre, Praha 1, Na Příkopě
19, MMůstek, tel. 608 64 39 23, www.sushipoint.
cz. In the sterile environs of a shopping centre is this warm
(with wood, bamboo and saki) and delicious sushi outlet.
Pleasingly clean design; check out the nifty menu niches so
you can examine the pictorial menu as you wait for your uni
nigiri, sashimi or maki rolls. Good wine, excellent service and
good sushi of course, raise this from typical mall fare. Take
away and delivery available. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (180
- 600Kč). AS
YAMI E-2, Praha 1, Masná 3, MStaroměstská, tel.
222 31 27 56. A new venue touted by many as the best
sushi in town plus awesome bibimbap, saki and kimchi
that brings tears to eye - although their prices might also.
Décor is simple black, orange and bamboo. The house
specialty: the Yami roll is one of their big sushi mains: a
large log of omelette, crab, seaweed and beef sliced for
your pleasure. 400Kč buffet usually on the first Sunday of
the month. Recommended QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (150
- 600Kč). A
Latin American
Ambiente Brasileiro E-3, Praha 1, U Radnice 8,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 23 44 74, www.ambi.cz.
Don’t be alarmed when a man brandishing a large skewer of
meat appears before you and starts slicing bloody chunks
of beef onto your plate. In addition to the churrasco grill,
delicious pastas and appetisers are also offered with Brazilian flair - and it’s eat all you possibly can, so take some
time. If you pay up before 18:00, the price is 445Kč for
the meat churrasco. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also at F-3,
Na Přikopě 22 - Slovanský Dům, tel. 221 45 12 00. (225
- 545Kč). AP
Don Pedro G/H-5, Praha 2, Masarykovo nábř. 2,
MKarlovo nám., tel. 224 923 505, www.donpedro.
cz. The only thing that will kidnap you in this Columbian
restaurant is the taste of the fabulous food; from Columbian fried yuca and cola guisada, to excellent steak
and Mexican favourites. And then there are the tropical
cocktails, native coffee and South American wine. Almost
makes you want to book a flight to Bogota bu t now
there’s Don Pedro here... Q Open 11:30 - 23:00. (130
- 280Kč). APS
April - May 2007
41
42
Pizza
Fast food
Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel.
In Prague, Ronald McDonald takes a backseat to Colonel Sanders who appears to be, well, everywhere. Quick
slices of pizza and kebabs are also a popular treat
around town and can be had 24hrs at the bottom of
Wenceslas Square. Here are a few places worth a visit.
224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza-maker
slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning oven
is the only spectacle you’ll witness at this coliseum. Sample
excellent pastas and pizzas made with real mozzarella in a
rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it’s what Yanks call a pepperoni pie. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova 32.
(100 - 200Kč). ABP
Bohemia Bagel I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. (Rumunská corner), MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 603 19 66 36.
Bohemia Bagel opens their express outlet serving all
day breakfast bagels and deli sandwich fillings plus good
coffee. Call ahead to pick up probably the biggest bagels
in the world. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30.
Pizza Marzano I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 802/56,
MMuzeum, tel. 224 03 23 00, www.pizzamarzano.cz.
Those who know and love England’s Pizza Express chain
(est. 1965) will be thrilled to know their signature Florentine
pizzas are as authentic as ever, prepared in the open kitchen
and cooked to perfection in the pizza oven. Italian wine, beer
and fresh pasta join the pizza menu, with lunch specials and
kids’ menus as good additions.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (180
- 480Kč). ATWX
La Bodeguita del Medio D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 5,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 39 22, www.bodeguita.
cz. Piles of ripe fruit and coconuts for cocktails, Latin beats,
an illuminated bust of Papa and sky-blue wooden clapboard
ceilings with dangling fans emanate a distinctly Caribbean
feeling. Try Creole cooking and seafood galore at this Cuban
restaurant whose sister establishments dot the globe from
Old Havana to Oman and now Prague. Excellent cigar shop out
the back. Kitchen closes at 24:00. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
(100 - 1,000Kč). ABEIPTU
Lebanese
Byblos F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 14, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221
84 21 21, www.biblos.cz. The shopping centre location may
not be inspiring, but the soothing music and the lush, hanging
foliage is sublime. Choose either Lebanese or Mediterranean cuisine from two separate menus or just ask for the chef to whip up
something special. Inexpensive pizza, authentic Middle Eastern
dishes and strong coffee poured from traditional copper serving
cups make Byblos a welcome stop. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 250Kč). AP
Medieval
Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark dungeon of
delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit-roasted or barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale, hearty and heavy
- the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go hungry. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (300 - 600Kč). AI
U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan medieval
banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings as well
as great fish) served by buxom Hell’s Angels in a cavernous remake of the set of Monty Python and the Holy Grail.
Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you scream
‘when!’ and indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book early or take
a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at J-5, Praha 2,
Balbínova 22. (150 - 300Kč). AIP
The Prague
telephone code is +420
Dahab Yalla F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. The
fast food yin to it’s much larger sister establishment’s
yang, this colourful cafeteria offers all of the falafel and
other Middle Eastern treats you can handle, without the
ambience and without the wait. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun. (60 - 150Kč). S
Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revoluční 1, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group turn
their talented hands to this eat all you can antipasti and/or
pizza & pasta restaurant. Well planned location adjacent to
the massive shopping centre, the Palladium, set to open late
2007. A huge restaurant with trestle type seating, Ambiente’s
trademark flair and an extensive Italian and Czech wine list.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. APT
Endy’s H-4, Praha 1, Spálená 41, MNárodní třída,
Russian
Matrjoska I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36, MMůstek,
tel. 777 77 96 88, www.oasiscity.cz. On the fourth floor of
the Oasis CITY empire, the spacious lounge-like interior of this
restaurant offers diners dishes prepared by a Russian cook.
There’s a variety of authentic Russian and Ukrainian dishes
including solyanka and pelmeni; order the more complicated
ones a day in advance. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30, Sun 08:00
- 10:00. ABLU
Petrovič E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 8, MMůstek, tel. 224
21 06 35. Petrovič is a non-political cartoon character
who recalls life’s simple pleasures – like hearty traditional
food cooked well and the infamous horseradish vodka
(80Kč). Grab a colourful table in one of three rooms and
enjoy traditional Russian (plus Czech & international) cuisine to the tune of taped soundtrack during the day. Live
music most nights starts at 20:00, with a retro disco on
Fridays in the bust-strewn cellar. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 200Kč). E
Seafood
Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark
wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some
of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend
the ‘fruit of the sea’ soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT
Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. With a choice from
live or freshly imported fish, one can swim through this menu
with delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly satisfy.
Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster,
fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob’s scallops is
a speciality only to be savoured, and the imperial mussels
truly deserve their name. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (190
- 890Kč). AG
Pavel Vítek
Slovak
Posezení U čiriny H-5, Praha 1, Navrátilova 6, MNárodní třída, tel. 222 23 17 09. Small and many-roomed, U
čiriny is a rambling grandmother’s house of a restaurant and
the cooking is as tasty and homemade. Trademark haluška
(goat’s cheese and bacon on gnocchi) is the arguably the
best in town, the spicy chicken nuggets are a world away from
fast food varieties and the whole experience has led to the
necessity for reservations. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (80 - 270Kč). ABPT
Spanish
La Bodega J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 32, tel. 222 24 09 91,
www.labodega.eu. Take seat in the stylish restaurant upstairs,
the relaxed high-tabled tapas bar on street level or the cellar.
The tapas is authentic and tasty – and thankfully tables are big
enough to accommodate the myriad dishes that make up the
meal. Paella and main courses are all expertly cooked by the flamboyant Spanish-resident, Czech chef in the semi-open kitchen
and flamenco dancing adds to the Hispanic flair on Thursdays.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (200 - 600Kč). AEP
Thai further afield
NEW
The Noodle Bar H-7, Praha 2, Plavecká 4, tel. 602 37
09 84, www.noodle.cz. Small and tasty - the food and the
interior. This new hot spot with Wi-Fi has been attracting the
expat crowd for its well priced though not enormous dishes
of noodles, fried rice, dumplings and delicious salads. Heat
indicators abound but this palate found nothing too spicy on
the menu. Lovely wait staff and service uplift the experience.
Two internet terminals for those without laptops. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 185Kč). GSW
tel. 604 21 74 63, www.endys.net. Healthy fast food?
Surely not? Yes and in that den of iniquitous gyros and
pizza, Národní třída no less. What Endy’s calls a Hooper,
we call a wrap. The French holds couscous, chicken and
fresh spinach. Salads and other Hoopers (Thai, Italian
etc.) are available with their calorie count. A meal deal has
OJ and air cooked potatoes. Enjoy their desert and coffee
too. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 150Kč).
Chez Amis H-5, Praha 1, Spálená 15, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 93 22 77. Fast food milieu with home
cooked flavour from this Turkish place that serves up
cheap and delicious gyro, felafel and lamb mains. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Thai Spice Praha 3, Palác Flóra, Vinohradská 151,
MFlóra, tel. 222 74 20 38. The always busy fast food
outlet of Orange Moon. Watch the Thai guys cook up your
noodle or curry dishes in front of you. Chillies on the menu
indicate the heat quotient, which is as ever, less than we
hope for, as is the flavour unfortunately. QOpen 11:00
- 22:00. (65 - 120Kč).
Thai
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. This unusual and quality
mix of Thai restaurant and glass design shop hosts a limited
though excellent brunch/lunch buffet daily for just 170Kč. A
special gourmet section of the menu is available for those who
do not mind shelling out a little more for shellfish and other such
luxuries. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (150 - 600Kč). AP
Lemon Leaf H-5, Praha 2, Na Zderaze 14, MKarlovo
nám., tel. 224 91 90 56, www.lemon.cz. The large photo
of a rice paddy at sunset sets the tone for this international
restaurant whose speciality is Thai cuisine although their
menu offers excellent non-Thai dishes. Steamed rice in tiny
woven baskets and the special symbols next to spicy dishes
on the menu are welcome touches, but the Lemon Leaf’s
most alluring quality is its affordable prices, which seldom
rise above the 150Kč mark. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 00:30, Sat 12:30 - 00:30, Sun 10:30 - 23:00. (100
- 200Kč). ABTU
April - May 2007
43
44
Wine bars
Beer might be the great Czech tradition but wine is
also produced here - and while it is not one of the best
vintners in the world, there are some good wine bars
around.
Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Located
in the quaint brick cellar of a medieval building across
the narrow street from Týn Church, Bandol offers a good
selection of local and European wines as well as a full
menu of international dishes from the restaurant on the
ground floor. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. AE
Bokovka H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 8, tel. 605 22 86
68. Czech and international wines in the heart of Prague
opened by film directors Jan Hřebejk (Pupendo, Horem
pádem) & David Ondřiček (Samotári). Large wine list and
there is no smoking to mess with the taste buds. QOpen
16.00 - 01.00, Fri, Sat 16.00 - 03.00. G
Modrý zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel.
222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue Tooth
looks like an Ikea café until you notice the bowls of spicy
noodles and curry being served by cheerful waitresses
and devoured by happy punters. This noodle bar takes
Thai fast food to a higher level with delicious curries,
made to order glass, rice and yellow noodle dishes, sushi,
maki, soups and salads. Excellent service, lovely spot.
Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 180Kč). ST
Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative
aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the
authenticity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai
massage next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of
farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience.
And the food doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice
of Siam in a very Czech courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
(120 - 200Kč). B
Vegetarian
Cellarius J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 29, MMuzeum,
Beas F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel.
tel. 222 51 52 43, www.cellarius.cz. Wine bar with
summer garden and wine cellar with stock from Moravia and Burgundy. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00, Sat 12:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. Also at I-4, Praha 1, Štěpánská
61 (pasáž Lucerna). Open Mon-Sat 09:30 - 21:00; Sun
15:00 - 20:00. A
777 16 54 78, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian
metal trays hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large
curry meal, noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and
more. Desserts and lassi are also available and tables have
jugs of free water to quench the small fires the somewhat
spicy dishes produce. Excellent and deservedly popular.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130Kč).
PGBS
Monarch D-4, Praha 1, Na Perštýně, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 23 96 02, www.monarch.cz. Wine bar
and shop featuring classic and novice wine from all over
the world. Settle into its warm wooden interior and don’t
worry about the rather ripe smell, it’s the cheese. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at I-5, Václavské
nám. 64, tel. 222 21 03 82, open 11:00 - 23:00.
Pavelka H-5, Praha 1, Spálená 8, MNárodní třída,
tel. 604 76 08 66, www.pavelkavino.cz. Pavelka is
one of the most renowned vineyards of the Malokarpatské, the Small Carpathian Mountains, just outside
Bratislava. Pavelka’s home is Pezinok, the regional
capital of this Slovak wine region, and Pavelka’s excellent wines are now available to try and buy in this shop
and bar. It’s small but delicious, and the owner will open
at other times by appointment. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
U Sudu Praha 1, Vodičkova 10, MMůstek, tel. 222
23 22 07, www.usudu.cz. What looks like a small wine
bar from street level descends into a labyrinth of deeper,
darker and often dirtier rooms and corridors packed full
of students (old and young) and smoke. You might need
to employ Ariadne’s trick to get out of here again… Wine
is the forte but beer and other drinks are available too.
QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. K
Viniční Altán K-7, Praha 2, Havlíčkovy sady,
Gröbovka, MNám. Míru, www.vinicni-altan.cz.
Small wine bar in the park overlooking Nusle valley
which in the summer becomes one of the coolest spots
to hang out, drink some wine, chat with friends and
generally take in the fantastic view from their rooftop
pagoda. With art shows on the walls and even tango
and salsa nights (tel. 602 44 75 03 for details) right in
the middle of the park, this is a great place. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. B
The best way to celebrate springtime
Clear Head (Lehká hlava) D-4, Praha 1, Boršov 2,
MNárodní třída, tel. 222 22 06 65, www.lehkahlava.cz.
Healthy and delicious, this veggie place doesn’t take itself
too seriously and despite the name, does serve alcohol. The
open kitchen produces ratatouille, pasta, salads, burritos and
more, with tofu (try it smoked) and eggplant high on the menu.
Fresh juices can be combined to detox while you sit and chill,
eat and chat in the cool décor of their three distinct rooms.
Tricky to find, down a small alley, but worth it. Q Open 11:30
- 24:00. (80 - 150Kč). GN
Countr y Lif e E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 15,
MMůstek, tel. 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz.
From humble beginnings as a take-away bar, this place is
packed at lunchtimes with long queues at the caféteriastyle counter. That’s because even non-vegetarians are
impressed by the salads, pizza and soups, although some
are bland. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun
11:00 - 20:30. Closed Sat. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1. (75
- 150Kč). GPTU
Franz Kafka D-2, Praha 1, Široká 12, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 89 45. Inscriptions from the Great Man, and
black and white photographs of old Prague adorn the walls.
There’s a room out back for discussing the implications of
The Trial or Metamorphosis in muted privacy. Chess and
backgammon boards available. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (40
- 100Kč). T
EASTER
7–9 April 2007
Warm starter
Soup
Main dish
• Gratinated goat‘s cheese in a fine batter served on a prune salad
Dessert
• Easter almond cake served with English cream and fruits
• Cream of vegetable soup with poached quail‘s egg
• Roast lamb cutlets with rosemary and thyme in a crust of olive
tapenada, patissons stuffed with spinach leaves and potato crepes
with parmesan
890 CZK
Klub architektů D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 5a,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 40 12 14. The enormous, wideranging menu and wonderful location are reasons enough to
give this place a try, but the Escher-esque tangle of superfluous copper piping and machinery, and the scary spiders that
make them their home, are the focal point of an evening in
this designer cavern. Comfort food at decent prices. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (150 - 300Kč). ABG
Hotel President
ÌÌÌÌÌ
For reservation please call: + 420 234 614 138
Náměstí Curieových 100 | 110 00 Prague 1 | www.hotelpresident.cz
46
CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN
This chapter only reviews our selection of cafés in the Old
and New Town, the well-touristed area between the river
and Wilsonova road. For cafés in other areas of Prague turn
to pages 58 - 70.
Érra D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 11, MNárodní třída,
tel. 222 22 05 68. Small, funky and perfectly formed, this
semi-sunken treasure trove is full to brimming with the hip and
hungry. Salads, pasta and palačinky (crepes) jostle with the
temptations of the desserts for your favours. The basement
is popular with the gay community. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 250Kč). AI
Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel. 224
21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Café Café is a well-known gay
hangout, but it also attracts hetero hipsters who look the
look, talk the talk and wear the ware. Coffee, cocktails, large
salads and the Mediterranean menu provide lubrication and
sustenance. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(150 - 450Kč). AB
Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French style,
this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. Café
Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast is
served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper.
Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard
hall or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the
perfect place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00
- 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). AGPT
CAFÉS IN THE OLD TOWN
C o ff e e Fe l l o w s E - 2 , P r a h a 1 , D l o u h á 2 0 ,
MStaroměstská. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee
and syrups. Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your
attention but try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven
with some toffee mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few
armchairs have their backs to the room and the banquette
seating proves a tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy
too, but it is tasty. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. W
Ethno D-3, Praha 1, Husova 10, MStaroměstská, tel.
Velryba H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 24, MNárodní třída,
222 32 79 40, www.ethno.cz. Who knows the voodoo
that they do? Well, we have a pretty good idea. They cast a
spell over the drinks menu, raising the prices as if by magic
and thus keeping the natives at bay. Still, this means that
amongst the smiling, gigantic crocodile benches, they do
offer good value salads and pastas. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(65 - 155Kč). AP
tel. 224 93 23 91. Packed and popular, The Whale has delicious aromas wafting from the kitchen into the main seating
and eating area out front. Vegetarians will delight in the extent
of options available here and waiting diners of all proclivities
are often out of luck as people tend to linger. Go down the
hall and emerge into a sofa-laden café for less upstanding
evenings. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 200Kč).
Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1, MStaroměstská,
Fuzion I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, MMůstek, tel. 224
tel. 222 31 19 67, www.coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks
is snoozing in Seattle, a cunning Polish franchise outfit has
sneaked two excellent albeit somewhat faceless cafés into
Prague. The coffee comes in paper cups and ranges from
32Kč for an espresso to 84Kc for the large white chocolate
mocha. The sandwiches, panini and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and there’s a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen
08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra
shopping mall and other mall locations. AGPS
21 51 56, www.fuzion.cz. Breakfast, baguettes, sandwiches, wraps, delicious smoothies and coffee have eat in
and take out prices. Fuzion is small; a steep spiral staircase
leads to the warm leather and wood seating area. Friendly
and deserving of the word nice. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. GW
Creperie Café Praha 1, Národn, E-4, MNárodní třída.
Not just crepes in this delightfully rustic rambling French
farmhouse kitchen of a café/bar decorated with knick-knacks
galore and tucked in a quiet courtyard. Enjoy boar goulash,
salmon and octopus in addition to a choice of well-sized
and expertly cooked sweet and savoury crepes to an appropriate soundtrack. Homemade soups are a great winter
warmer. The wine cellar might keep you here longer than
anticipated. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
(85 - 180Kč). B
Café Revive I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36 (Marks
& Spencer 2nd floor), MMůstek. M&S food is famous
for its decadence and while Prague’s food hall is actually
more of a food corridor, the traditional M&S café exists in
truly delectable fashion. Fair trade coffee, fresh cakes and
pastries join mammoth sandwiches in the place that truly
does revive. Worth a visit even if you’re not shopping. Q
Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:30 - 19:00.
(60 - 200Kč). P
DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská,
Café WOW E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 5, MStaroměstská, tel.
Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222
222 31 30 91, www.cafewow.cz. Chef Petr Bednář brings
an interesting Mediterranean, Czech, Asian fusion menu to
this now-standard café layout. The diversity of the menu
(wings to fried cheese to homemade pasta, Thai salads,
woks and sandwiches) belies the size of this café cum bar
but is testament to Bednář’s experience in the UK, Finland
and Berlin’s excellent VAU restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (99 - 350Kč). A
22 20 18, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best coffee in
town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies and
cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons you in
the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be serenaded by
some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across the square. Check
out their shop almost next door. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (60
- 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open 07:00 - 20:00; D-3,
Řetězová 9, open 09:00 - 22:00. ABT
Cafeterapie H-7, Praha 2, Na Hrobci 3, tel. 224 91 60
98, www.cafeterapie.o1.cz. If you are in need of some
healthy, tasty vegetarian offerings after a heavy night or just
for sustenance during a walk along the river, Friendly staff
serves up delicious offerings of salads, sandwiches, Mediterranean platters, tofu and tempeh, with some good seasonal
specials always on offer. Take tram 3, 7, 16, 17 & 21 to Výtoň.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. BG
Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39,
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.
cz. Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic
images of the eponymous objects line this ubercool café
near Cinema Světozor. The expanse of glass leads to perfect
people watching, but the media types inside don’t want to do
the watching. Breakfast, cakes, baguettes, salads, pasta and
even steaks are small and tasty but slightly overpriced (100
- 240Kč). But if you want cool, you’ve got to be wiling to pay
for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. W
tel. 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Way belies its
sleek design by actually being the café for the DISK Theatre,
the place of study for the Czech Academy of Performing Arts
(DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands and directors
for well-priced (especially when you consider the location)
sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb desserts.
A full bar is of course available too – Staropramen is 40Kč.
QOpen 09:30 - 22:00. (85 - 115Kč).
Emporio Café F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 19,
MMůstek, tel. 255 74 21 87, www.emporiocafe.cz. The
latest outlet of this chain café inside it is the most grand; two
floors of sleek designer chairs, slowly revolving metal strip
lamps and a whole wall imaginatively decorated with, yes,
broken egg shells. The menu sports everything from salads
to snacks and meals. Service is still somewhat lacking so
make sure you sit well within view of the waiter. DJs spin at
weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200Kč). APS
Andy Studio
Sokolovská 153, Praha 8
tel. 266 314 184, 266 316 484
www.andystudio.cz. Solarium
and café.QOpen 9:00 - 22:00.
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. Darker walls
indicate an edgier characterisation to this bastion of expat
life which had become a tad stuffy in its middle age. The
good food, books (new and second-hand) and internet café
remain but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as live
music and events spicing things up. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 120Kč). AEU
Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19,
MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 224 22 42 40, www.grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of the Black
Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style café. Even
café-capital Vienna doesn’t have one of these. The simple
menu lists pancakes, sandwiches and some good coffee.
Try to get a seat on the balcony overlooking Celetná street.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP
Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 22,
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 63 25 20, www.grandcafe.
cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and other sweet
delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square and for
visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(95 - 490Kč). A
NoD F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224
82 63 30, www.roxy.cz/nod. Fabulous experimental space
with funky furniture, an art gallery, music, film and four terminals
of free internet.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (25 - 65Kč). W
Nordica I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnická 10, MNám. Republiky,
NEW
Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the makers of
Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café for the masses.
Purple and green dominate the upholstered sofas and stools.
Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, sandwiches too for
the lunch rush but you can also build your own. Italian water
ups the price, but the veggie and hummos sandwich (99Kč)
is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee also served. QOpen 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PBS
Tea houses
Dobrá čajovna E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 14,
MMůstek, tel. 224 23 14 80, www.cajovna.com. A
purple-robed Buddha watches over the garden to ensure
outer peace amongst the youthful customers whilst inside
the place is naturally full of candles, crockery and joss sticks,
for sale too. The largest tea selection we’ve seen and some
of the highest prices too. Colonial echoes with the ring-thebell-for -ervice ethos. QOpen 12:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 15:00
- 21:30. BG
Růžová čajovna F-4, Praha 1, Růžová 8, MMůstek,
tel. 222 24 58 94, www.pangea-tea.cz. Enjoy a cuppa
in the bright natural wood filled tea room and then buy supplies, including the crockery, to make it yourself. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10.00 - 22:00, Sat 11:30 - 22:00, Sun
11:30 - 21:00. G
U Dvou šálků J-5, Praha 2, Blanická 8, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 51 52 22, www.cajiky.cz. One of the best tea
rooms around although the fact that it is so busy means it
can take a while to get served. Small eastern inspired food
menu and vast tea selection. Play games, chat and lounge.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00,
Sun 14:00 - 22:00. Also at U Kostela, J-1, Praha 7, Strossmayerovo náměstí 9, tel. 266 71 14 30.
tel. 222 32 39 00, www.scandinavianhouse.cz. The
clean-cut, well-lit café in the Scandinavian House is a mellow
place for some herring and vodka. Nordica provides more than
that though, with breakfast, toasties, salads and sandwiches
providing a well-priced snack menu. Readings, live music and
art events occur here occasionally. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:30 - 18:00. (42 - 130Kč). A
Shabu H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 11, MMůstek, tel. 603
84 75 34. Tiny and crouched down a passage, Café Shabu is
a wooden, welcoming and laid-back. Sandwiches and salads
are good, fruit juices and smoothies abound, as do relaxed
patrons. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150Kč). B
Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída,
tel. 224 21 84 93. Slavia has a beautiful art deco interior
and photos of celebrity patrons. Its location can’t be beaten,
with large windows open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava.
Service is fine, but you can sit here for quite a while without
purchasing much from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee,
tasty meals, snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. (45 - 320Kč). APU
April - May 2007
47
48
NIGHTLIFE IN THE OLD TOWN
This chapter only reviews our selection of nightlife venues
in the Old and New Town, the well-touristed area between
the river and Wilsonova road. Prices are higher in the Old
Town as a rule but that doesn’t stop the party people.
For nightlife in Malá Strana, Vinohrady & Žižkov, Letná &
Holešovice and Smíchov turn to pages 58 - 70.
Bars
Atmosphere C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 14,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 21 14. Cool spot with
courtyard terrace, foosball table and excellently functional and
filling food. With posters extolling bongs, skateboarding and
the fact that beer has been helping ugly people have sex for
years, this is not a sophisticated night out. It is appropriately
atmospheric though and has an extensive and cheap food
menu. One of the best aspects is Hoegaarden for just 30Kč
oh, so close to the river. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. B
Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks.net.
Deep red walls and ceilings, leather benches, dark wood
finishing, books filling one complete wall and impeccable
service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails vie with an astounding
array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy setting with
cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club sandwiches,
caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small but inspired
menu. Q Open 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun
18:00 - 03:00. AP
Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing with the
smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant with
huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see the
beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will
come buzzing around you to offer expertly crafted drinks,
succulent sushi, and a reassuringly expensive bill. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. APU
Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13,
MStaroměstská, tel. 721 882 557, www.rasoi.cz.
One of the city’s best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom
disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually
play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele in
the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen
12:00 - 04:00. ABP
Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 10, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s has been
around for a fair while now, but it has managed to keep the
‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who
has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd
guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent
cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP
Cabestro D-4, Praha 1, Spálená 47, MNárodní třída.
Although in its infancy, canny owners are already sounding
out excellent DJs and even some live music, the location will
attract the punters and the real party will begin. Follow the
bare corridor into Cabestro.QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. E
De Brug F-2, Praha 1, Masná 5, MNám. Republiky, tel.
224 81 92 83. Not quite an authentic Amsterdam bar – for
obvious reasons, but it is Dutch owned and operated and
they serve traditional finger food. English breakfast and the
usual bar staples of burgers and Mexican bites accompany
38Kč Staropramen, DJ at weekends and the varied set of
locals and tourist that wander into this dark, wooden nook.
Quiet early, but then it can and often does kick off. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00. KW
Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská
10, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81
02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Bugsy’s
has been around for a fair while now,
but it has managed to keep the ‘it’
that means it is a place to go if you wanted everyone who
has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A trendy and hip crowd
guaranteed then, as is a menu featuring plenty of decent
cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. AEP
D u e n d e C - 3 , P r a h a 1 , K a r o l í n y Sv ě t l é 3 0 ,
MStaroměstská, tel. 604 26 97 31, www.duende.cz.
A small split-level bar containing casually sophisticated folks
who sip and do not gulp their drinks. The odd snack occasionally makes an appearance to liven things up. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. G
For the twelfth year
now Bugsy‘s Bar has
been a living Czech
bartending legend.
It‘s wide selection of
perfectly created
Martinis served in
chilled cocktail
glasses and a wide
range of
Champagnes,
Whiskies, Rums &
Cigars prove it‘s
position in the world.
Fat Boy’s F-3, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5/636,
MNám. Republiky, www.fatboys.cz. Not a full English
breakfast in sight, but they did stay open all night for the
Ashes... A small bar with good staff and quieter than most in
the area has just begun live music nights. With only darker
granát and Stella beers on offer, even the spill off from Chateau don’t always linger, but it is usually riff-raff free. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00.
Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel.
776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a chameleon as it
appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink then suddenly you’re
having a crazy time in what was the smallest bar in Prague. A
kitchen (good, cheap eats) and small music club downstairs
plus more tables have almost quadrupled the bar space. The
fun factor has not been diluted. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.
Harley’s E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. 227 19 51 95,
www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not just
because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or Wild
Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two of
Dusk till Dawn’s barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč and
Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A
Chateau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 31 63 28, www.chateaurouge.cz. A
local legend. This large, dark red bar continues to be the place
to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A deeper and darker
cellar room kicks in later in the evening as a DJ and dance
venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists another central
venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet alternative for
a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel.
224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front by the
sculpture of an iron goat, Kozička is entered via heavy red
curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of
rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this
is one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night
- till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. AIP
K.U.Bar.Cafe E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 13, MMůstek,
tel. 221 18 10 81. There’s a fine line between trendy and
pretentious and this bar from the Café-Café company and
the people in it tips to the side of plastic pretence. If you
are trendy, cool, beautiful, wear the right labels and want to
hang out with like-minded folk, head on down for higher than
average prices, DJ tunes and small bar menu. QOpen 17:00
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 04:00.
PAŘÍŽSKÁ 10
PRAGUE 1
DAILY 7 p.m. - 2 a.m.
Recognized by Newsweek
International as one of the
World‘s Best Bars
„The most popular bar in the
Czech Republic“
Playboy Award 2003
Partner in the OK PLUS
AirRestaurant program
Phone: +420 - 224 810 827
Email: bar@bugsysbar.cz
www.bugsysbar.cz
April - May 2007
49
Watch
Out!
So fresh it grabs you
Our French chef, Jerome Lorieux, guarantees daily fresh seafood
in the hear t of Prague. Seafood platters from 25 Euro!
Š t u p a r t s k á 9 , P r a h a 1 - S t a r é M ě s t o, t e l . : + 4 2 0 2 9 6 8 2 6 1 5 5 , w w w. l a p r o v e n c e . c z
free reser vations line +420 800-1-52672
free reservations line +420 800-1-52672
52
La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, tel.
O’Che’s D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 14, MStaroměstská, tel.
224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A pleasing and soothing spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect,
when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in but at
the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself in the
midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great too.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. EK6W
222 22 11 78, www.oches.com. Just what you’d expect
an Irish Cuban bar to be. Likenesses of everybody’s favourite
failed revolutionary stare off into space amid a dartboard, TVs,
Guinness ads and football paraphernalia. Yuca con mojo may
be hard to find, but good food, excellent barstaff and all round
fun is readily available. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. KP
Ocean Drive E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 7, MStaroměstská,
Rocky O’Reilly’s I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32,
MMůstek, tel. 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreillys.cz.
Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on draught
and an ‘O’ in its name all meet the criteria for a classic Irish
watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served anytime,
Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff that can
easily draw your attention away from the football. QOpen
10:00 - 01:00. AKP
tel. 224 81 90 89, www.tretters.cz. Basically created for
the overspill from sister establishment Tretters, with the same
calibre of clientele and maestro barkeeps. Join porn stars,
pop stars, suited Czechs and foreigners plus their cohorts for
some superlative cocktails at appropriately high prices. You
might have to wait at the door if they don’t know your face.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. AP
Rincón C-3, Praha 1, Na Zábradlí 1, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 21 73. Splendidly located along the Vltava with
large windows to catch the evening sun. The menu reflects
the Charles Bridge location with bacon sandwiches and fish
and chips enticing the tourists. Split levels inside give some
privacy, and evenings see a crowd descend, especially when
drink specials are on. Strangely, the logo is a peeing dog.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (60 - 220Kč). ABPS
Tretters E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 3, MStaroměstská,
tel. 224 81 11 65, www.tretters.cz. The bar certainly
seems sure of its leading role here, swallowing up so much of
the space that it leaves little room for customers. And rightly
so. Committed barmen can rattle up some seriously decent
cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in town.
Wear a suit or the staff will probably sneer at you. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00. AP
Pubs
Caffrey’s E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys.
cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám.
make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties
of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate
Guinness, Bulmer’s cider, Walker’s crisps and more to make
you feel right at home. A good venue to watch all the major
(GAA too) sporting events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00
- 02:00. ABKP
George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 11,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 61 37. A British pub landed
slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV screens, a big
screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won’t remind you of
the country outside. Good food, including an all day breakfast
with the atmosphere you want to see your team play and win,
with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK
Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. 224 22 23
83, www.jamapub.cz. The Hollow’s worn wooden seats
are home to expats and locals alike, who frequent this bar
for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as the cheap local
specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free wi-fi. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. ABGKTW
Molly Malone’s E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4,
MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 81 88 51, www.mollymalones.cz. A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and ends of
bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden floors
making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. Take
your time contemplating the excellent menu over some cider
or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AKPU
The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58,
MMůstek, tel. 736 63 08 68. Down see-through steps
is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name suggests, beer factory. Well located and easily locatable by the
square’s landmark statue, this beer hall’s cavernous space
should be packed daily – just look at those opening hours.
Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix
drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the
staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
(150 - 350Kč). KP
Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts (if
that’s the word) Foster’s lager, but everything else is more
international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more
in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen
31Kč) are not that high considering its location. Two floors
of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering
long after the hearty meals have been sufficiently washed
down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100
- 800Kč). AKP
U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17,
MStaroměstská, tel. 222 22 11 11. Havel took Bill
Clinton here to demonstrate Czech drinking culture (and let’s
face it, if there’s one thing Havel knows, it’s his booze). Get
there by opening time to have any chance of getting in. The
Pilsner brewery makes special deliveries here - the beer is
pumped directly into the large tanks below the bar. A national
institution. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. K
Sport bars
Jágr’s Sport Bar F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 56,
MMuzeum, tel. 224 03 24 81, www.jagrsportbar.cz. The
renowned owner, Jaromír Jágr, number 68 himself, is a great
ambassador for Czech ice-hockey in the United States. Back
in Prague meanwhile, he entrusts a variety of countrymen to
pour beer and turn on dozens of TVs for loud and raucous
cheering. Reservations for big game nights are a must. Excellent screens and fairly priced beer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 350Kč). AKP
Legends F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224
89 54 04, www.legends.cz. Twenty, count ‘em, twenty TVs
plus two plasma screens and a private room for your viewing
pleasure in this bastion of expat sport bars. An excellent menu
features great burgers and the ever-popular hangover-busting
breakfast. Descend into this sleek cellar for a maul to rival that
on the screens on any given Saturday, Wednesday, Sunday...
Popular with visiting celebs too. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100
- 400Kč). AEK
April - May 2007
53
54
Jazz clubs
Casinos
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16,
MMůstek, tel. 222 21 12 75, info@agharta.cz, www.
agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the perfect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on the
Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Arrive
early to claim a seat at a table. There’s a jazz shop, where
they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting talent.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admission
200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E
Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída, tel.
774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. A varied roster of blues, jazz
plus some deep funk stalwarts of and newcomers to the scene
play nightly. Ferdinand waters the thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission
100Kč. Concerts begin at 21:00. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat,
MStaroměstská, tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzboat.cz. Take a
musical journey on the low seas of the Vltava. The Jazz Boat sets sail
each evening from Čechův most and for only 590Kč you’re afforded a
two and a half hour cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of
excellent jazz performed by some of the city’s finest musicians. A bar
and restaurant are also at your disposal, but their services are not
included in the bill.QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK
Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel.
224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Reduta has not
changed much since 1958; you don’t come for the brown
interior or the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings
in quality performers and even attracts a president or two.
Václav Havel has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes,
he did play his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. EP
The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum,
tel. 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor made for its
fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen TVs in every
room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) on tap, and full
English breakfast. A higher class of pub food is also available
from wings (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to the massive
double filet mignon (950Kč).Q Open Mon & Fri 09:00 - 02:00;
Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30 - 02:00. AJK
Three Lions I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 19, MMuzeum,
tel. 222 21 09 56, www.threelionsprague.com. Huge
with 15 plasma screens and 2 big screens in the cellar. Their
capacity is 420, plus a summer terrace and their menu of
trad favourites such as full breakfast and Sunday roast should
entice the punters. Newcastle Brown, Fosters, Strongbow and
Guinness on tap (95Kč) and Krusovice (60Kč). QOpen 11:00
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. (200 - 350Kč). A
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Zlatá hvězda I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 12,
MMuzeum, tel. 296 22 22 92, www.sportbar.cz. This
dedicated sports bar remains open until the final whistle
blows. Appropriately buxom servers deliver 21Kč Gambrinus,
pizza and wings etc. around the TV-filled room. Reservations
necessary. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri 11:00 - 04:30, Sat 12:00 - 04:30, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
ABEIPU
There are lots of places in which you can lose your
shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t
even get in in the first place! All of these places will
gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars
and give you free booze with which to drown your
sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in
posession of ID to play.
Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské nám. 5,
MMůstek, tel. 224 19 36 81, www.vipclub.cz. Poker,
roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots attract a sophisticated crowd with the casino’s excellent, knowledgeable staff,
and appropriate atmosphere. Q Open 24hrs. AK
Casino Monaco Praha 4, Kongr esová 1,
MVyšehrad, tel. 261 19 11 70, www.vipclub.cz.
The Corinthia Towers Hotel hosts another of the VIP
casinos (see also the Panorama and Ambassador), with
their trademark talented croupiers, usual games and good
times. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. AL
Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác,
tel. 261 16 40 61, www.vipclub.cz. The Corinthia
Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from the VIP
group. The usual games and slot machines are on offer, with
drinks and refreshments. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. AL
Na Příkopě 10, Praha 1
Open daily from 4 p.m.
♦
American/Touch Bet
Roulettes ● Black Jack
Pontoon ● Poker
SLOT ROOM
See advertisement on p. 53
Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 221 96 73 80, www.bancocasino.cz. One
of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a central location difficult to
beat. All your favourite games are available, there are state of
the art slot machines, a private salon and a general atmosphere
of unadulterated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was
used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A
Bohemia Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress Centre),
MVyšehrad, tel. 241 41 25 87. Prague’s first casino.
With slot machines, poker, Blackjack and the usual suspects both on and off the tables, Bohemia is as good a
place as ever to gamble your crowns away. Smart dress
and ID required. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00. AKL
Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní
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Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, tel. 728
13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. A venue in the making, but it
looks to be great. In addition to two (real) dart boards, 7 TVs
and one big screen, semi-private booths in the VIP room with
individual screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from
99Kč), Colman’s mustard and Branston pickle, and authentic
Indian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (30 - 200Kč).
1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. 224 81 09 88. One
of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton provides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto Banco,
and slots with the worldwide standards of the Hilton chain.
QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A
Casino Duplex E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21,
MMůstek, tel. 224 49 04 30, www.casinoduplex.cz. One
of the few places for poker, in its various forms, to be played. Live
games here from 20:00 - 06:00.Q Open 24hrs. AK
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TRY YOUR LUCK!
♦
Free entry
Photo ID required
No dress code
♦
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Casino Palais Savarin F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10,
MMůstek, tel. 224 22 16 36, www.czechcasinos.
cz. The home of Prague entertainment for over 10 years,
come try your hand at Poker, American Roulette, Black
Jack and more. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. A
Tel.: +420 224 221 636
www.czechcasinos.cz
April - May 2007
55
56
LATE EATS
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička
2, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 89 57 48, www.jazzblues.
cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. Go down
the stairs and you descend into the more expected territory
of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does host
some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open
20:00 - 02:00. Admission free.
U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek,
tel. 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated
stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule
of quality, contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite
venue for Prague’s serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate
and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. AEGP
Clubs
Batalion E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 3, MMůstek, tel. 220 10
81 47, www.batalion.cz. The live music venue which goes
on all night providing music, rock videos, drinking, internet,
dancing, foosball, and copious amounts of drunken debauchery. This is the place to go when all others close. Downstairs
offers a more intimate milieu. Q Open 24hrs. E
Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36,
MMůstek, tel. 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. The
more popular local bands and the smaller international groups
ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you can find
an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their disarmingly
popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors being closed
because of sheer numbers. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 150Kč. EP
M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 221 87
42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad car of a bar
is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped barmen deftly
pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated spirits on the wall.
New owners have shifted the scene some at Prague’s M1,
with nightly themes from the increasingly popular Sunday chill
out sessions to ladies’ night and DJ Big J’s Smokin’ Fridays.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní
třída, tel. 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. The front
bar remains the same, but inside, all has changed. The
main stage has been moved down a level, meaning that
this always great venue has effectively removed the 22:00
live curfew so many clubs here are curtailed by. Three bars
and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen
to watch the band well away from the mosh pit make Rock
Café the suave new place for live music. QOpen 10:00
- 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. Admission
50 - 100Kč. EW
Casinos, part II
Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových
100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. 234 61
41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack,
poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new
casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for black jack, et al.
and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A
Century Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici
10, MNám. Republiky, tel. 221 03 34 01, www.millenniumcasino.cz. Catering to the likes of the Marriott
Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts
excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take
anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack
are available. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. AL
Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, tel.
257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino.cz. Come to
the only English-style casino in Prague. Spearmint has
the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at
roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or play in the
private gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing,
head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport
to the casino is also available. Admission is free. QOpen
16:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue 17:00 - 05:00. A
cz. Where the crowds go for the after party, things often don’t
kick off here till well into the morning, so be cool and arrive
fashionably late. Don’t forget your sunglasses. QOpen 05:00
- 15:00. Admission 100Kč.
222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. Bandol offers
a good selection of local and European wines as well as a
full menu of international dishes from the restaurant on the
ground floor which serves until 01:30. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
(100 - 400Kc). AP
Kozička E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. 224
81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. A labyrinthine set of rooms,
where good food adds to the late night party vibe and this is
one of the kitchens that’ll feed us late into the Prague night,
until 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00,
Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (90 - 400Kč). AKP
Picante Fresh-Mex F-2, Praha 1, Revoluční 4, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 222 32 20 22, www.picante.cz. What
was the freshest Mexican in town has raised prices and now
charges for the salsa, jalapeno and other extras waiting to be
ladled onto your flautus, burrito or taco. But it does remain
fast and 24hr - but on weekends only now. Q Open 10:00
- 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. (30 - 200Kč). S
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 93 30 86, www.solidninejistota.cz. A meat market in more ways than one. The girls
and guys do their thing round the large bar and small dance
floor while the kitchen does its thing until 05:00. QOpen
19:00 - 06:00. (110 - 350Kč). AKP
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.
cz. Good Czech-Mex standards jostle for space with salads,
sandwiches and hot pitas. Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00
at weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). E
U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. U Sadu is a local legend
for many things, including the fact they serve beer till dawn
and food till 04:00. Love it. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. (60
- 300Kč). K
Vysmátý zajíc E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 13,
MStaroměstská, tel. 224 21 69 99, w w w.v ysmaty-zajic.cz. Par t Czech pub, music club, restaurant
and internet café, where you can work up a hunger and
enjoy their menu until 05:00. A decent deal for its Old
Town location. Q Open 11:00 - 05:00. (100 - 250Kč).
AKPU
Zlatý strom D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 6, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 04 41, www.zlatystrom.cz. Home to a hotel
and a music club (itself home to a dancefloor straight
out of Saturday Night Fever). The restaurant’s kitchen is
nonstop, serving up salads, pizza, pasta and the usual
international and Czech standards. Q Open 24 hrs. (100
- 350Kč). AKP
Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. 774
74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design or by
accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split levels
and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of the
weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to create a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent DJs
and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of folk.
Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 except
club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P
Zero E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 8, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 81 84
97, www.myspace.com/zeroprague. Classy joint in town with
long bar, private room at the rear and limited booth seating in order
to keep those feet tapping. The music scene in Zero has settled into
some of the deadliest beats in the city, with local names attracting
loyal hipsters to their nights – check out the new Minimal Sunday
sessions as well as any other day. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. P
Bandol F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, tel.
Trilobit H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 715/15, MMůstek, tel.
224 94 60 65. Cellar bar with Czech and international dishes
as well as a few vegetarian options. It’s a good place to sneak
in a drink in relative anonymity, or grab a late meal. Kitchen
closes at 01:30, except Sun 23:30. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250Kč). AKP
Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel.
221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a dancing hall
during communist times so if your parents are too old to
boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to
the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent 1960s.
An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover bands,
local and international acts plus an open mic night on select
Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E
224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best club in
Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping despite some
sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely eclectic Free
Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open for concerts
19:00, for club nights 22:00. EP
tel. 777 57 72 99, www.sixsense.cz. White leather seats,
long bar, dark corners for assignations and space enough
for large groups make Sixth Sense a classy addition to Old
Town choices, especially with the well laid out music club
downstairs and cool bar staff. However, on the downside are
the cheesy Europop tunes and somewhat syrupy cocktails.
QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. P
It’s nearing the witching hour, and the liquid dinner is just
not cutting it anymore. You need some food in your stomach, but (apart from the 24hr kiosks on Václavské nám.)
where can you go to eat at this time of night? Right here...
Solidní nejistota H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 21,
Studio 54 J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 38, www.studio54.
Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel.
Sixth Sense E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 3, MStaroměstská,
Late eats
Zlatý strom D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 6, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 22 04 41, www.zlatystrom.cz. Famous throughout the city for, well, being a disco and having a dance floor
straight out of Saturday Night Fever. Down in an historical
basement, the large dancefloor is usually full - except when
the strip shows start. The restaurant serves 24 hours a day.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 100Kč. AKP
April - May 2007
57
58
FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE
Prague is comprised of lively neighbourhoods which can
be as fun and diverting to dine and party in as the Old
Town, and cheaper. The area-based listings enable a night
of dining and drinking with venues that are within walking
distance.
Malá Strana and the castle area are more upmarket than
the Old Town; east of the Old Town lie two excellent residential districts; Vinohrady, with plenty of trendy venues
and grungy Žižkov, which is for the adventurous. North
of the Old Town, Letná & Holešovice have some gems.
Finally Smíchov, south of Malá Strana, is an upcoming
area for restaurants, bars and clubs.
Malá Strana & The Castle
Gastronomically, Malá Strana (A/B-2/3) and the area
around the castle is a sprucer version of Old Town, with
many upmarket and tourist restaurants, plus great bars
and jazz clubs, but not many clubs. To get there, walk
across Charles Bridge, take the metro to Malostranská or
hop on trams N°18, 22 or 23. Crawl onto night tram N°57
to get back to the Old Town.
Czech
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child friendly
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
O Casino
R Internet W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendly
Cafés
Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. 257
31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand café
dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neo-Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food from
the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the more
elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries and
cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a lazy
breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP
American
NEW
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova
Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. 257
40, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.com. Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group’s
sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of
steak, seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary
wine list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and
atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent
cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč)
ABEIPW
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
Renowned for the tiny though classy jazz joint downstairs, the
street level bar has entertaining barmen, free-flowing beer
and cocktails, and good food. Czech-Mex standards jostle
for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas, although
the menu has no breakfast dishes, except (Bohemia) bagels.
Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). EP
Balkan
Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel.
257 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. A vast and fairly expensive
selection of local and international wines precede a vastly
unusual menu for a Prague restaurant. Octopus and mussels
vie for space with veal and lamb, served in a marked Balkan
slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (130 - 400Kč). AG
Breakfast
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 16, MMalostranská, tel. 257 31 06 94, www.bohemiabagel.cz. This
place is always full to the point of bursting with Americans
satisfying their cravings for authentic bagels. The wake and
bake offer for the breakfast bagel & unlimited coffee/coke is
available till 11:00. Other bagels are available all day. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. Also at E-2, Praha 1, Masná 2. Open 07:00
- 24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00 & I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám.
(50 - 150Kč). BG
53 06 28, www.cukrkavalimonada.cz. A small café which
adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious
meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella
on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some
superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are just
as tasty from breakfast to pancakes, sandwiches and homemade pasta. As relaxed as the tranquil square it is located on.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 350Kč). PG
Downtown Café A/B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. 257 31 14 11, www.downtowncafe.cz. A
new location for this lovely café with low seats (and some
odd ones), and a semi-open kitchen producing mostly sandwiches, but we saw a delicious steak being cooked one day.
With DJs playing select nights and the beautiful staff wearing
T-shirts emblazoned with the look better naked and Mecca
logos, Downtown’s role as a pre-party for various club continues. And it is gay friendly. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
08:30 - 24:30. (85 - 110Kč). ABPW
Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská,
tel. 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko serves
fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse
just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your soul for a bit
while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the home-made
cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G
U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská,
tel. 605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when richer
clients paid for two coffees, leaving one for the next impoverished artist to arrive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging coffee if
you’re feeling philanthropic, otherwise while away the time in a
space that exists outside the tourist zone around it. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. BK
For more food and drink go to
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)
Baráčnická rychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 24 61, www.baracnickarychta.
cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the copper lighting
fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience the beauty
of Czech winters, although in the warmer months it may
translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as earthy
and homemade as it comes in Prague.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 150Kč). AE
Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská,
tel. 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a small
house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s
Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices.
The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen
does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). ABP
Olympia B-4, Praha 1, Vítězná 7, MNárodní třída, tel.
251 51 10 80, www.olympia-restaurant.cz. This retrofurnished Pilsner Urquell-owned restaurant provides a more
modern and international slant to Czech staples - including
the prices. It’s firmly on the tourist trail, but authentic, wellpresented and excellent for a beer, snack or full-on meal.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kč). AT
Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny.
com. The restaurant in the white mill building on Kampa Island
is especially recommended for its riverside terrace. The menu
includes many decent fish dishes but don’t let that distract
you from the views of the weir and Charles Bridge. Excellent
kitchen and astounding location on the river and next to the
Museum Kampa. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABGP
U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská
10, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 66, www.umaltezskychrytiru.cz. A fairly ordinary upstairs bar area does
not prepare you for the maze of tiny, secret passages below.
Here you can dine in practically your own private cave. The
repast is excellent, big and delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(300 - 750Kč). AEG
U Zlaté hrušky Praha 1, Nový svět 3, MHradčanská,
tel. 220 51 47 78, www.zlatahruska.cz. Tucked above the
castle in beautiful grounds on a quiet street, the Golden Pear
is one of the top ten dining establishments in the city. Wood
interior panels and low ceilings make for intimate dining and
alumni include Margaret Thatcher and the Finnish president.
Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:30 - 24:00. (400 - 800Kč).
ABEGPTU
Vikárka A-1, Praha 1, Vikářská 39, tel. 233 31 19 62,
www.vikarka.cz. This collection of delicately restored but
wildly different rooms is a great place to sample Bohemian
and international cuisine; try the grilled duck with honey and
ginger, or the roast venison. The adjoining 16th century emperor Rudolph’s foundry rooms serve similar food. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. B
French
Bastille B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 26/426, tel. 257 31 28 30,
www.labastille.cz. A laid back restaurant with excellent food
and atmosphere enough to keep diners lingering for cocktails
well after dessert. Although a French restaurant, Bastille does
produce pasta, Czech and Czech-Mex dishes too. Lamb, pork,
fish, mussels, frog’s legs all served with Gallic flair. Budvar.4l
for 40Kč. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (90 - 380Kč). A
Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining room
is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel the
need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, the
perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon
and spinach pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning
views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400
- 900Kč). ABGPT
U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 00 00, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of those
restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in Prague as
it has the reputation of the best French cuisine in the city. The
pedigree is long, the restaurant was given three stars by an otherwise difficult to please King Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go
for the sumptuous décor and the ambience of wealth. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (1,200 - 2,000Kč). AGPT
U Patrona B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 4, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 07 25, www.upatrona.cz. One of only
fifteen Michelin recommended restaurants in Prague, dining
at U Patrona is a trip into the bygone era of Czech hospitality.
Diners can enjoy the intimate downstairs room or the large
upstairs area where you can watch the chef preparing your
French influenced Czech specialities such as quarter of a
roast goose with almonds, red cabbage and rolled dumplings.
Luxurious surroundings mimic the gracious service, superb
menu and wine list. Euros accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(280 - 700Kč). ABEGPTU
Indian
Haveli Praha 6, Dejvická 6, MHradčanská, tel. 233 34 48
00, www.haveli.cz. Have a seat in the bar area on the ground
floor and watch Indian music videos with the staff, or dine in the
beautiful cellar restaurant under vaulted ceilings and the watchful
eyes of ancient gentry in paintings on the walls. Authentic cuisine
and a good selection of vegetarian offerings. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. Bar open 11:00 - 02:00. (120 - 290Kč). A
Malý Buddha Praha 1, Úvoz 44, MHradčanská, tel. 220
51 38 94. Crammed with enlightenment-seeking students
from the nearby American College, Little Buddha opens its
doors to those who like calm, joss sticks and cleanliness of
liver and lungs. A range of utilitarian dishes from the east
are presented at charitable prices. The desserts were our
favourite part, apart, that is, from the sprint down to the pub
afterwards for a pint and a cigarette. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.
Closed Mon. (150 - 300Kč). G
International
NEW
Akat Steakhouse B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 19,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 03 00. No Czech cows at
Akat, all their excellent beef comes from Argentina and is
served with a smile in 200g or 400g slabs in cuts including
fillet mignon, churrasco, sirloin, entrecote and T-Bone, with
the usual sauce options to choose from. Chicken, pork and
lamb round out their menu which is well complemented
by the wine list. The winter garden setting is unusual and
nicely bright for chilly days. QOpen 11.00 - 23.00. (200
- 1000Kč). AB
April - May 2007
59
60
FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE
Nostitz B-3, Praha 1, Nosticova 2, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 00 76 81, www.nostitz.cz. A lovely late baroque
summer palace built by the Jesuits in the 17th century
is now a lovely restaurant with a gorgeous terrace along
the Čertovka canal that creates Kampa Island. The usual
chicken, steak, pork and Czech classics menu has some
more international slants, such as shaslík. Private parties
and weddings are catered for inside and/or outside where a
grill adds to the garden party feel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(100 - 300Kč). ABL
Square B-2, Praha 1, Malostranské nám. 5, MMalostran-
Alchymist B-3, Praha 1, Hellichova 4, MStaromětská,
tel. 257 31 25 18, www.alchymist.cz. Fabulous decor, service and menu in this opulent restaurant with faintly oriental
leanings in the decor region, plus a few zebra stripes. Although
the menu isn’t extensive, it can’t be faulted; foie gras, sea
bass, lamb, whatever, it’s all good. For dessert, the creme
brulee is divine. A few cheaper options on the wine list would
facilitate a smooth evening, but for a special night out it’ll do
very nicely, thank you. Q (300 - 650Kč). AGP
David A-2, Praha 1, Tržistě 21, MMalostranská, tel.
257 53 31 09, www.restaurant-david.cz. Up a winding
cobbled street, the interior of this small restaurant looks
like a genteel, yet chintzy living room. The wait staff behave
in a butler-like fashion, the food, more Posh than Becks, is a
gourmet’s delight and includes dishes such as chateaubriand
in green pepper sauce and grilled tiger prawns in crab sauce.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (190 - 550Kč). AGU
ská, tel. 257 53 21 09, www.squarerestaurant.cz. The
only squares in this hip restaurant are the tourists who can’t
help but wander in, given its excellent location. Cocktails, coffee,
tapas, breakfast and primarily Italian cuisine given an inventive
twist by the chef, can all be had in this maroon and white shrine
to all that’s trendy. And the wine list, food and service lives
up to the impeccable surroundings. One of the Kampa Group
restaurants so ask for details of their frequent dining program.
QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. (155 - 500Kč). PAB
U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 22, www.zlatastudna.
cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Prague’s restaurant
scene after a successful opening. Sitting high above the city
thanks to its roof-top elevation, it still manages to snuggle
beneath the castle, and the classic architectural lines set the
scene for quality cuisine and vintage wines. QOpen 07:00
- 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB
Medieval
U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. 220 51 84 84,
Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalos-
www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the centre of
cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine cellar is at
your disposal to really make you feel that your rightful place is
down the road at the castle. The chefs have catered various
state dinners, and the prices tend to illustrate this. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 950Kč). ABEILP
transká, tel. 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup.com.
Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner
in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international
favourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza’s thrown
in for good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on
hand to look after your kids while you relax. We love it and
you will too. Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool
table and big screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400Kč).
ABEGPT
U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 14 55, info@svabove.cz,
www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval shenanigans in the
requisite cellar space where fire-eating, dueling and even
torture takes place as you dine. Traditional recipes employing
only authentic 15th and 16th century ingredients means no
tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games and lots of meat. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). AEGIP
Kampa Park C-2, Praha 1, Na Kampě 8b, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 26 85, www.kampagroup.com. The
legendary restaurant with THE who’s who of diners; Hillary
Clinton et al. (see the decorative photographic evidence). With
a magnificent location on the water just below the Charles
Bridge, a meal here doesn’t come cheap, but you’ll forget
the price once you’ve tasted the delicious nouvelle cuisine.
Reservations recommended. The heated terrace remains
open for your viewing pleasure. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (600
- 750Kč). ABLPT
Mlýnec C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 9,
MStaroměstská, tel. 221 08 22 08, www.pfd.cz. The
Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on the east end of
Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a veritable who’s
who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when the chef is Marek
Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin Bibendum twice.
Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops with truffle sauce,
green broad beans and coucous. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00;
17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). ABEPU
Mexican
Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. 257 32 73 89, www.
azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican fare with
drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in fact, the bar
does a fair business on its own, apart from the spicy food on
offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. Although we’re
not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, Azteca offers
good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25
types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s nothing Mexican on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč and Corona
70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A
FOOD & DRINK IN MALÁ STRANA & THE CASTLE
Spanish
El Centro B-2, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 9, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 33 43. This warm and bright Spanish
eatery, slightly hidden in an discreet alleyway at Malá Strana,
is an amazing choice if you are looking for a fiesta in your
mouth. The paella is savoury and fresh, the tortilla espanola
is piquant, and the gazpacho is delectable. It’s a spicy change
from the routine. Sombreros off to this place. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). ABGU
Bars
Barbar B-4, Praha 1, Všehrdova 17, MNárodní třída,
tel. 257 31 22 46, www.bar-bar.cz. Underground bar
offering snacks, beers and slightly odd art pieces scattered
under a large wooden propeller. The staff smile widely and
the customers slouch because they feel at home. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
Shadow Bar B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 14, tel. 227 19 52 35.
In the space once occupied by Bohemia Bagel’s internet café
and the shortlived 8Ball, Shadow Bar is home to two foosball
tables, some funky, hallucinogenic murals, long, low tables
and a youthful hedonist crowd. Eclecticism is the name of
this shadowy place. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00.
St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalostranská. Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick’s has been attracting drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn’t waned.
Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live
music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
The Blue Light B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalostranská, tel. 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. An older crowd
jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed
jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes,
from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards and well mixed
cocktails. It’s a cool hot spot with very interesting interior
design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. E
Zanzibar B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 6, MMalostranská,
tel. 602 78 00 76, www.monin.cz. The cocktails here are
good – although we got a margarita in a martini glass – but
make sure to sit at the bar. Wait staff are appalling with service
running the gamut from brusque to nonexistent. The Rolling
Stones improved the atmosphere but décor appears of the
Mexican restaurant ilk. Cocktails are 85-150Kč, and Pilsner
50Kč. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. P
Pubs
J.J.Murphy’s A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don’t worry, they
also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you could
enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting event
without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on their
20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport from
one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper breakfast
with pudding or a real American burger on the ground floor.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK
Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel.
U Černého vola Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 1, MMalos-
257 31 71 73. A warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving
Texan-sized portions of decent grub and small swimming
pool sized margaritas that slip down far too easily. The fajitas are exellent, although we suggest you may want some
extra salsa to add some zing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (120
- 300Kč). ABE
transká, tel. 220 51 34 81. It’s almost unbelievable to find
a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up the
hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden
benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet.
Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up Úvoz and make a right.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Jazz
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
Little Glen’s is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs from a
scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide spectrum
of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of jazz and
blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of the 20
or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & Sat
150Kč; Sun 70Kč. AEP
Clubs
Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. 257
31 65 37. Yes, the ambience is young, shabby and hedonistic, but Újezd’s three floors and especially the bizarre wrought
iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes and ears. Friendly staff and
hot (most of them smoking) people throng here any night for
live music and/or DJs. The cellar is punk, and upstairs is a
more eclectic chill zone. Don’t bring your posh frock, do bring
some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E
Out there clubs
Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175,
MPalmovka, tel. 602 32 44 34, www.prostorabaton.
cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of the
best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live
music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas,
The Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as
Dirty Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from
the stage upstairs. Open for gigs only and closing time
depends on the band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to
stanice Stejskalova QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E
Hany Bany Praha 4, 5. května 1640 (Congress
Centre), MVyšehrad, tel. 261 17 42 41, www.
discohanybany.cz. A disco reminiscent of the ‘heyday’
of the 80s sits in the car park of the Congress Centre
but manages to attract a fairly good-looking bunch of
young locals and tourists to its massive underground
space. Vanilla Ice played here, they cater for private parties and and host events such as Miss RnB. Pop muzak
is pumped out to the ever increasing crowds. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 100Kč. PE
April - May 2007
61
62
Vinohrady & Žižkov
Vinohrady (J/K-5/6) has everything from cheap ethnic
restaurants, trendy bars and a fabulous beer garden to
one of Europe’s top clubs. Neighbouring Žižkov (K-4/5) is
a working-class district that’s proud to have the highest
number of places serving alcohol in the country. Vinohrady
is best explored from the Jiřího z Poděbrad (JzP), Náměstí
Míru or I. P. Pavlova metro stations; night trams N°51, 57
and 59 roll to and from the Old Town. Žižkov is a short
steep walk past the TV Tower from JzP metro, or a short
ride on trams N°5, 9 or 26. Stagger home on night trams
N°55 or 58.
American
Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place
serves up fresh salad, great stuffed peppers, ribs and of
course chicken wings. This is billed as a ‘lifestyle’ restaurant
and serves delicious dishes with their distinctive brand of
style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (150
- 300Kč). A
Australian
Bumerang J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 52, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 51 70 47, www.52.cz. In addition to a wealth of
international dishes, there are several varieties of kangaroo
– fried, sautéed, grilled and mercilessly skewered – for those
who have a craving for the island continent’s equivalent of
deer. Only Foster’s is in evidence. Lively and often full, although
there have been recent reports of mysterious additions to
bills. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. (150
- 250Kč). PAB
La Lavande J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 24, tel. 222 51 74
06, www.lalavande.wz.cz. Behind the rather unwelcoming
barred windows lies this gem of classic French cuisine that
has one of the best lunch deals in the city. Chefs have years
experience in 4 and 5 Star hotels and whatever you order, be
it the goat cheese millefeuille, mussels, or crème caramel, it’ll
be good. The mostly French wine list runs from 200 - 2000Kč.
Q Open 11:30 - 15:00 & 18:30 - 23:00. Sat 18:30 - 23:00.
Sun by request. (150 - 450Kč). PAB
Brewery restaurants
U Vodárny K-5, Praha 3, Korunní 75, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 52 25 40, www.restaurace-uvodarny.
cz. At the Water Tower is famous for another liquid: fresh
Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Kozel from tanks rather than
barrels – pubs must consume a certain amount of beer to be
given this honour. It is also famous for excellent and cheap
home cooked traditional food and that superb habit of singing
rock n roll and country and western songs in Czech. Plus they
have an adjacent non-stop herna with saloon doors. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 200Kč). BE
U Bílé krávy I-5, Praha 2, Rubešova 10, MI. P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 23 95 70, www.bilakrava.cz. Although such
classic French appetisers as frogs’ legs and escargot are
served, the restaurant’s claim to fame, as one might surmise
from the illuminated bull’s head hanging outside, is Charolais
beef. Fantastic atmosphere, great service and even better
food make reservations essential most evenings. Print out a
10%discount card from the website. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. (125 - 600Kč). AP
Cafés
Café Pavlač K-4, Praha 3, Víta nejedlého 23, tel. 222
27 17 31, www.cafepavlac.cz. Healthy eating comes to
Žižkov? Café Pavlač, named for the courtyard gallery out the
back, which staff and artist are happy for you to explore,
serves up good breakfast, snacks and meals, including pasta
and salmon steak. Nights can happen too, with a full bar
and Gambrinus at 22Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180Kč). B
Greek
Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Rightfully the
most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent Grecian
starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard working
staff. Superb. The massive garden may be closed but Olympos
does have a lovely winter garden. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun
11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 500Kč). ABT
Kaaba J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 20, MMuzeum, tel.
222 25 40 21. This über-funky café and attached tabak on
eclectic Mánesova is the perfect spot for their sinfully thick
hot chocolate, varied selection of premium teas and coffees,
plus breakfast, cakes and alcohol, of course. An assortment
of design furniture, light fixtures and ashtrays allow the varied
clientele to feel as cool as this place looks. Enjoy. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Chinese
NEW
Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.cz. Do it
yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed pottery
(plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the usual café
food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and get creative
with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art for you to take
home. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P
Noel’s J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18, MNám. Míru, tel.
608 27 74 33, www.noels.cz. So far, new ownership of the
Metropole has had little impact, with only a bluesier soundtrack
in its mellow space and an increasing line up of live music, but
Noel promises a gradual conversion into a rawer music club in
the coming months. The food, drinks and laid back atmosphere
remain, so head down for the talented live acts, mostly at the
weekends at the moment. Reservations are necessary for the
free live acts. Anagram Bookshop remains for the moment.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. EW
Czech
Hlučná samota J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 14, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 52 28 39, www.hlucnasamota.cz. Exposed
brick walls and dark wood embrace all comers. The food
though is the real reason to be here - quality fish and meat,
crisp vegetables, and a few more side order options than
usual plus real French fries.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AB
Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz. The
Shepherdess’s Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups with
trestle type dining to the tune of traditional dulcimer Gypsy
music. The wooden cottage was built as a representative
Czechoslovak restaurant for the 1967 World Exhibition in Montreal and shipped over here for to continue the Czech dining
pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (90 - 300Kč). BE
Rybanaruby K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 731 57 07 01, www.rybanaruby.cz. Part
café, part live music venue, part shop it goes into the café
section because of its opening hours. Underground music in a
very literal sense – down the stairs you’ll find legalize cannabis
proponents selling world music CDs, djembes, didgeridoos,
etc. and hosting similar veined live acts (admission 51 111Kč). Very cool space. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. 271
L’Ardoise J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 29, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 602 27 95 11, www.lardoise.cz. The kitchen, the staff
and owner make diners feel suitably important for the calibre
of cuisine and superlative wine list. Daily blackboard specials,
such as soup, foie gras and fresh fish, join the succulent veal,
beautifully caramelised salmon and sinful desserts.QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. (180 - 420Kč). AB
74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new
and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings
and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon,
Bernard beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. E
296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features at the
beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good Soldier Švejk’ as
the planned location of the never-to-be meeting “...at six in the
evening after the war.” An oompah band keeps the atmosphere
rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AEGP
French
Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. 271 74 66
51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be;
they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not
to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything
else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from
I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova
1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP
Indian
Himalaya I-5, Praha 2, Mikovcova 7, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 23 15 81, www.himalayagroup.cz. A functional
take-away curry house with one table and a couple of stools
if you really can’t wait. Excellent samosas, spicy jalfrezi,
creamy korma, dal and chapattis make fairly cheap appearances.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (60
- 200Kč). S
Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel.
222 51 16 60. A small, functional but very tasty Indian to fill
the gap in the market. Curries of every hue and origin (tandoori,
biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo come in
vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice
and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for
just 150Kč too.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč).
Taj Mahal I-5, Praha 2, Škrétova 10, MMuzeum, tel.
224 22 55 66, www.tajmahal.cz. It’s pricey, but the
Indian décor, the pleasant service and the separate halls
for smokers and the nicotine-free are all as worthy of the
price as the authentic dishes they serve. At Taj Mahal, if it
says spicy, then by Vishnu, it is spicy, and the same goes for
the milder curries. An excellent place, although they don’t
have draught beers, but they do have three Indian beers. If
your curry was a tad hot, cool down with a lassi. QOpen
11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. (200 - 500Kč).
AEGPTU
April - May 2007
63
64
FOOD & DRINK IN VINOHRADY & ŽIŽKOV
International
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 90, www.palacakropolis.cz.
We feel we have found the best chicken wings in Prague and
Akropolis’ new management, while changing the menu, have
kept the super spicy wings. Other reasons to come: it’s next
to Akropolis, it serves other well-priced and excellent food
till 00:30, it has funky, award-winning decor and fish tanks
filled with anything but fish. Join the hip, late night crowd at
this cool spot. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.
(80 - 200Kč). 6W
Baang! Praha 4, Nuselská 46, tel. 241 00 06 66,
www.baang.cz. We don’t normally like exclamation marks,
but as this place serves one of the best pepper steaks in
town, provides a menu which they are willing to adapt to any
personal preference and has French Chardonnay for 120Kč
a bottle, we’re going to let them keep it. It may be a quite a
trek (tram N°11 or 56 to V horkach) but it’s worth it. QOpen
11:30 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč). AP
Kuře v hodinkách K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 26, tel. 222
73 42 12, www.kurevhodinkach.cz. Industrial chic in this
hip hospoda with an intriguing fusion-inspired kitchen: a wide
range of salads, pasta, specialties ranging from chicken, duck
and salmon to Texas steak, with onion rings and tzatziki rounding out the side dishes. Vegetarians are well catered for too.
Take tram N°5, 9, 26 to Husinecká. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00,
Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (110 - 300Kč). AE
Le Club J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 42, MNám. Míru, tel. 222
51 31 19, www.leclub.cz. The place that was Japanese/
French fusion has moved to another cuisine, Lebanese. Classy
and pricey, the decidedly Lebanese-looking menu offers
mezze and main favourites with that French tri-coleurs twist
in the methodology. Portions are a tad small and the décor
not quite up to scratch; but impeccable service and unusual
cuisine tips the scales in its favour though despite the prices.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (250 - 650Kč). ABP
Los v Oslu Praha 3, Perunova 15, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 51 32 95, www.losvoslu.cz. The Moose from
Oslo doesn’t have moose on its wildly varied menu, but
it does serve Norwegian gulaš. Wild boar, snails, duck,
octopus, rabbit and quail round out the imaginative mains
that are complemented by unusual side combos. The
sirloin carpaccio is divine, the steak tender and cooked to
perfection, somehow without even asking. More seating in
the cellar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 01:00.
(85 - 345Kč). A
Mozaika K-5, Praha 3, Nitranská 13, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 224 25 30 11. At Mozaika every dish is so
delicious that it’s difficult to make a choice. The seafood
bouillabaisse is a hearty starter, tandoori chicken is piquant
and tasty, while pasta dishes are rich and flavourful. The
hamburger is touted as the best in Prague. Judge for yourself,
but reserve a table first. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
16:00 - 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). B
Retro J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám. Míru, tel. 603
17 61 11, www.kavarnaretro.cz. Excellent prices in a cool,
vibrant space, with some pretty efficient wait staff. The menu
is huge and French/Mediterranean with good vegetarian options, crepes, and huge salads. Pasta, fish, chicken and beef
are all imaginatively prepared and well priced. Club downstairs
and now live music next door too seems to be turning it into
a slow-burning hot spot. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (105 - 230Kč). AGP
Sahara Café J-5, Praha 2, Ibsenova 1, MNám. Míru, tel.
222 514 987. This corner café on Nám. Miru is sublime, from
its huge interior complete with appropriately exotic teak and
mahogany tables, rattan chairs, Buddhas, masks and other
oriental objects on the walls, a gorgeous fireplace and outside
seating in a quiet garden, to the menu of vaguely Middle
Eastern dishes. A good expensive wine list, Parma ham on
the bone and tall windows for seeing and being seen. A lovely
spot. QOpen 11:00 - 00:30. (180 - 500Kč). ABIK
Techtle mechtle J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 47, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 25 01 43, www.techtle-mechtle.
cz. New restaurant and bar which has the elements to make
it work: good Mediterranean menu and wine list – although
neither of these have been finalised yet, friendly staff, deep
cellar to keep noise in and prying eyes out – well, it is called
Hanky Panky after all… and plasma screens showing fashion
& MTV (DJs we hope will come soon). Large circular main bar
with a cosy cocktail bar deeper down. Check it out. QOpen
11:00 - 04:00. (140 - 450Kč).
Wings Club Praha 3, Lucemburská 11, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 71 31 51. The Wings Club is a slice of
aviation history served with humour, reverence and culinary
delights – the latter from a chef formerly of the Four Seasons
Hotel. Items from the owner’s collection of mostly WWII
artefacts decorate the space, and interested guests will be
shown around. Staff and menu are welcoming and bilingual
and meals are large, beautifully presented and tasty. Fascinating. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (120 - 300Kč). AB
Italian
Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. At Aromi there’s a
compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and fish dishes,
complemented by an equally good wine list. As a result,
the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and
expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (95 - 395Kč).
AGP
Magická zahrada Praha 4, Nuselská 114, tel. 261
21 42 52, www.magickazahrada.cz. The Magic Garden
is indeed a magical little place, offering a real slice of Little
Italy, with our personal highlight being the super selection of
(we counted no less than six) steaks. Recommended. Take
tram N°11 to the Michelská stop. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00,
Sun 11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 400Kč). ABP
Roca J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 32, MNám. Míru, tel.
222 52 00 60. The best service we’ve ever had in Prague by
far was at this small neighbourhood trattoria; an enthusiastic
girl who was clearly enjoying her job – a rarity in this town. And
then there’s the food, which is exceptionally good for these
price levels; no wonder it’s booked full every night.QOpen
10:00 - 23:30. (100 - 800Kč). A
Japanese
Mediterranean
Slovak
Fluidum Praha 3, Lucemburská 1497/6, MJiřího z
U Krbu K-5, Praha 3, Nitranská 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
tel. 728 70 27 97. Open the small menu of schnitzels and
halušky (small dough balls with meat and gravy) and be rewarded with an illustration of a boisterous Slovakian woman
missing the top half of her folk costume. Warm and smoky,
this place is half grandmother’s living room, half decked out
in paintings of peasants and walking sticks for Carpathian
adventures. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150Kč).
Poděbrad, tel. 222 221 702, www.fluidumrestaurant.cz.
Fluidum is as smooth as its name suggests; a good wine list
complements the small yet varied menu. We sampled perfect
calamari, steak, pork tenderloin and salmon, all prime cuts.
Vegetable sides are a welcome sight and the bread is warm
and served with garlic oil. Czech dishes and pasta make slightly
cheaper choices and there is a gourmet menu available. Subtle
lighting, comfortable seating and service. QOpen 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (200 - 450Kč). AGP
Mexican
Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru,
tel. 222 25 05 94, www.texmex.cz. The menu is enormous, amusing, and with some topless shots to keep you
turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes bodes well
for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty as it’s fun to
say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian options abound,
cocktails are cheap and delivery is available. What more do
you want? QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES
Amores Perros K-4, Praha 2, Kubelíkova 33, MJiřího
z Poděbrad, tel. 222 73 39 73, www.amoresperros.cz.
Amores Perros is no worse than any other Czech-Mex zone
and they do have a very cool contraption to keep your tacos
upright. Many a family group have weekend brunch here. Not
authentic, but good enough. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (100
- 300Kč). APS
Banditos I-6, Praha 2, Melounová 2, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 224 94 10 96, www.banditos.cz. More than just a
Mexican as their copy rightly claims; try the super sandwiches
and slaw. The Tex-Mex and burger standards remain at good
prices, along with an amazing all-day full breakfast. Cool barkeeps, clientele and tunes. The kitchen is open until 24:00.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (100 - 300Kč). AS
Sonora Praha 3, Radhoštská 5, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
222 71 10 29. Tightly packed tables and immense popularity make Sonora a cosy spot where you will end up sharing
your table. The menu is huge and daunting; go for burritos,
chimichangas, flautas and nachos. The Native American tribal
mural is interesting, but not as interesting as the massive
selection of tequila. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00
- 24:00. (100 - 350Kč). B
Thai
Tiger Tiger J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 5, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 51 20 84, www.tigertiger.cz. Burning bright
on a quiet residential street, Tiger Tiger sports Thailand’s
national colours and more Buddhas than you can shake an
incense stick at. Exotic and authentic cuisine is the key to its
popularity although the prices are not so popular (pad Thai
for 215Kč). Velkopopovický Kozel beer on draught. Daily lunch
specials for 100Kč. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00
- 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AP
Vegetarian
NEW
Beas J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 90, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.
608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. The vegan Krishna
type Northern Indian meals served on a metal tray migrates
to Vinohrady. With a small garden and the same interior,
Beas 2 will no doubtr continue the success of the original
Old Town Beas - although choices, desserts and servings
appear smaller at this location. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200Kč). PGB
RadostFX I-5, Praha 2, Bělehradská 120, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 224 25 47 76, www.radostfx.cz. Delicious and
large portions of well prepared all-vegetarian offerings await in
this hip cafe, restaurant, bar, club and video and music store
hybrid. One of Prague’s best spaces, their menu is ecletic
and imaginative. Check out their excellent weekend brunch,
Mexican and Thai specials, salads, sandwiches, and pasta.
QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. (120 - 245Kč). A
Pakistani
Mailsi Praha 3, Lipanská 1, tel. 222 71 77 83. Prague’s
only sit-down Pakistani restaurant is a leading light for those
lusting real cumin in their dinner. The service is light yet
deliciously attentive. Although still nowhere near the extravagances of most spiced offers in the city, their prices are starting to creep up a little. Take tram N°9 to the Lipanská stop. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč).
Hanil Praha 3, Slavíkova 24, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
Russian
222 71 58 67. Politicians could learn a few things from
this casual restaurant serving both Korean and Japanese
cuisine. Asian businessmen, locals and expats are all unified
in their hunger for steaming bowls of pibimbap (a concoction
of beef, rice, vegetables and egg) and mouth-watering platters of fresh sashimi. The attentive wait staff sport genuine
smiles and even make a joke or two at no-one’s expense.
Q Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00; Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
(250 - 500Kč). AIP
Poděbrad, tel. 224 22 47 20, www.ruskysalon.cz. Ruský
Salón’s cellar café space is clean-lined and classy, with raised
armchair seating around the more usual wooden chairs. Russian staples such as bread and herring (“drink some vodka”
they advise), blinis (pancakes) pelmeni (like pirogi), Sobraine
cigarettes and of course caviar. Delicious light meals, breakfast, salads plus a deli and CD, DVD, video rentals. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (55 - 160Kč). PS
Ruský Salón K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 79, MJiřího z
Pavel Vítek
April - May 2007
65
66
Bars
Žlutá pumpa
J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 12, MNám. Míru, tel. 608 18 43
60. The beer is well kept, but best of all, for anyone who
has a big crush on white Russians, this place makes them
as they should be; short and fat with a fistful of ice cubes.
Loud, smoky fun and good value food. Make a reservation
- this place is always full. Burritos are fabulous. QOpen 12:00
- 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. K
Popocafepetl J-5, Praha 2, Italská 18, MNám. Míru,
tel. 777 94 46 72, www.popocafepetl.cz. Cheap and
cheerful, this hangout is always busy with the locals, from
the supercool hip to the sometimes grungy. This isn’t a beer
guzzling den; just 0.4 beers are served and their fair selection
of international wines begins at just 260Kč. The food front
is limited to pizzas, toast and hermelin cheese. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 15:30 - 02:00. Also at H-5, Praha
1, Na Struze. AP
Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 296 33 09 11, www.palacakropolis.
cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world on those
humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of scruffy
delights with great and often unusual live music and DJs.
There are two bars, an adjoining café, plus the excellent
gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in
Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times
here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30
- 400Kč. EKW
Meli-Melo Music Club I-5, Praha 2, Žitná 41, MI.P.
Pavlova, www.meli-melo.ic.cz. A new name, face-lift and
line-up for the old African/United Nations bar known as
Ridgeback. Deep beats and dnb is often spun by DJs, but
there is still regular Afro rhythms, ethno and live music keeping the faith. Admission up to 70Kč for live music. QOpen
16:00 - 04:00. EX
Bordo Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, MMuzeum, tel. 774
03 99 91, www.bordo.cz. A new club making waves on the
scene by booking varied acts to keep the youthful audience
on their toes. This second floor venue hosts reggae, live
punk and underground acts, crunk dance-offs and anything
else in between, plus DJs spinning discs when no bands play.
Admission depends on the gig. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri &
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. P
RadostFX I-5, Praha 2, Bělehradská 120, MI.P. Pavlova, tel. 603 18 15 00, www.radostfx.cz. Unquestionably
the glitziest club in town, RadostFX seems to be attempting
to be more of a brand name entertainment centre, for those
seeking an experience, than merely a club. Downstairs in
the large housey club, the beautiful people of Prague mingle,
entertained by a troupe of innovatively and often provocatively presented dancers. Glam it up with the roster of well
known local and international guest DJs. Q Café open 11:00
- 04:00. Closed Mon. Lounge open 11:00 - 04:00; club 22:00
- 06:00. EP
Pubs
NEW
Bunkr Parukářka Praha 3, Prokopova ul., tel. 776
Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám.
Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. 222 72 01 58. The
owner/barman creates magnificent drinks with studious care,
there’s no tossing of shakers here, just mountains of fresh
fruit and shots that would floor an elephant. Get here early if
you want a seat or stand until you hit the deck because this
place is tiny, has sounds the chilly end of cool and is therefore
constantly packed. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
Martin’s Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P.
Pavlova, tel. 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for locals who
crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald Isle without
the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style international
dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in town at 59Kč.
It’s probably also the only pub of its genre to offer Kung Pao
pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. BKP
Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, MMuzeum,
tel. 224 21 72 40, w w w.harlequin.zde.cz. This
combo would probably never happen any where else, but
when you feel like having a few beers then shoot some
arrows, we have found the place for you. With pool hall
and new roulette wheel upstairs and laser golf, laser
karaoke and archer y down in the black walled cellar,
Harlequin will keep the most dysfunctional group happy.
Archer y tuition on various bows for a lot of fun from
19:00 - 24:00 is 200Kč per bow per hour. Golf 400Kč.
Well priced but bottled only beer downstairs, Krušovice
upstairs for 24Kč. An intriguing gem of a place. Q Open
14:00 - 04:00. K
Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink.cz. Merlin
the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness posters
and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with antique
agricultural contraptions. The long bar resembles that of an
authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back feel. The
lower level houses the restaurant, which serves the usual
options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican menu.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K
36 64 10, www.parukarka.cz. The pub on the hill here
has been keeping the resident homeless (work that out)
awake for years, but with the opening of the nuclear bunker
under the hill as a venue, silence will descend as we all
descend down the 100 foot spiral staircase to join the fun
in a place where fun was presumably not ever supposed
to occur. Q Open for events only - check the website for
details. E
Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad,
www.blindeye.cz. You can’t keep a Blind Eye down… having
been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from the
cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and windows
will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into its cellar
interior. Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep the vibe
going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their signature
McFly) and cool tunes. Video rental and foosball also. QOpen
19:00 - 04:00. E6
Hapu
Cheers J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 116, MNám. Míru, tel.
222 51 31 08. The beer-drinking ethos that Cheers epitomises with its unaffiliated-to-any-brewery full range of beers
is working well with a new generation of Czech and foreign
drinkers. It isn’t the cheapest beer in town (Gambrinus 29Kč,
Pilsner Urquell 36Kč) but the food is good (fish and chips
135Kč) and they now serve a full Englsih breakfast for 355Kč.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A
Medúza J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 17, MNám. Míru, tel.
222 51 51 07, www.meduza.cz. Decked out with myriad
bits and bobs from the twenties and thirties, this is a fine
place to sink in their soft furnishings, enjoy their good wine
list (120 - 260Kč) and relax. The best pierogi in Prague apparently served with a smile from calm and efficient staff.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PU
Zvonařka J-6, Praha 2, Šafaříkova 1, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.
224 25 19 90. Zvonařka has a tasty menu of grilled items,
all cooked within sight on a BBQ atop their amazing terrace
perched alongside Nusle valley; one of the best spots in the
city to enjoy the weather and sup on cocktails or Budvar
(25kč). Inside ain’t bad either, clean lines and high and low
tables with three rooms, two bars and a big screen for televised events. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. ABK
U Sadu K-5, Praha 3, Škroupovo nám., MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 222 72 70 72. A very Czech pub with cool
ice hockey game, pool downstairs, terrible toilets, spotty
service, amazing collection of objets, or trash depending on
your state of mind, and a pretty good kitchen. U Sadu is a
local legend for all the above plus the fact they serve beer
till dawn and food till 04:00. Love it. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00.
(60 - 300Kč). BK
U Vystřeleného oka K-3, Praha 3, U Božích
bojovníků 3, tel. 222 54 04 65. Named for one-eyed
hero Jan Žižka, whose statue dominates the skyline of
Žižkov. The walls of this place ooze a childish sense of
humour, covered as they are in nonsense and art by
illustrator Martin Velísek. They look after you (if you’re in
the gents), by providing large padded headrests above
the urinals. Trams N°5,9,26,55,58 to Husinecká. QOpen
16:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. BE
Clubs
Mu Café K-5, Praha 3, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z
7 Vlků K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel.
Poděbrad. A less than obvious cellar bar that becomes a
gem once found. The vibe is dictated by who is there, chilling
smokers or the Tramix after party. DJs play at weekends and
sometimes people dance. Staff are as relaxed as the patrons,
and conviviality is the name of the game. Salads and hermelin
are the only food groups available, but beer is 19Kč and a
mojito is 85Kč. See you there. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 13:00 - 04:00. I
222 71 17 25, www.sedmvlku.cz. Cucumber-like and
bustling with a young Czech crowd, this combination of café,
bar and club has been set up as the epitome of a relaxed
night-spot for those that can’t be bothered to glam it up. Local artists have their work on display upstairs accompanied
by smooth beats, whilst down in the cellar, the brickwork is
the backdrop for giant angels, ragga and drum ‘n’ bass DJs.
QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E
Míru, tel. 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A new
and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent
restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied
roster of local and international bands and DJs rocking the
decent floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and
closing time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30
- 500Kč depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00
- 05:00. EP
NEW
Infinity Praha 3, Chrudimská 2a, MFlóra, tel. 272 17
XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. 222 78 34
65 80, www.infinitybar.cz. Infinity is a long time, and
that’s usually how long lovely locals and leering expats
linger in the cellar music bar/club. This is an unsophisticated
hedonists’ den - descend and enjoy with everyone else. A
decent restaurant of the same name sits on ground level
and serves till midnight. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00
- 01:00. PA
63, www.xt3cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP, this fabulous
cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new home of
XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come early or
be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music and/or
DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs with cool
sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent. QOpen
19:00 - 05:00. Admission from 30Kč for live acts. E
Kain Praha 3, Husitská 1, MFlorenc, www.kain.cz.
Loud and rough with a good line up of live music and DJs
from international acts to the favourites of local revival bands.
QOpen 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E
Le Clan J-5, Praha 2, Balbínova 23, MNám. Míru, tel.
222 25 12 26. The shape-throwing in-crowd of Prague ebb
and flow here on the weekend, depending on what’s happening at the larger clubs in town. Anything goes in this place,
and usually does. Chill out on the numerous sofas, chat at
the bar, or do the dance downstairs if it’s open. QOpen
22:00 - 03:00, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. 100Kč
admission for men.
Le Mirage I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 48, MI.P. Pavlova,
tel. 222 51 11 86. Hopping spot full of local bright and
beautiful young things. The youth of the average punter is
illustrated by the drunken mess visible by the end of the
night but it is always busy and always an interesting night
out. Champion foosball players congregate here. QOpen
17:00 - 02:00.
Matrix Praha 3, Koněvova 13, MFlorenc, tel. 608 70
67 91, www.matrixklub.cz. Very cool club in Žižkov which
has the characteristics of a young Akropolis. A large space is
utilised by varied bands (a recent punk night had a three hour
mosh session) and good equipment ensures the volume that
their soundproofing requires. Cheap drinks, good crowd and
excellent playlist. Check it out by taking a tram to Olšanská.
QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. E
April - May 2007
67
68
Letná & Holešovice
Bars
Smíchov & Anděl
North of town, Holešovice (K-1) is slightly scruffy while
Letná (H/I-1) is centred around Letenské náměstí with
some worthwhile restaurants and bars and fabulous beer
garden. The Vltavská metro station lies at the edge of the
area; otherwise trams N°3, 5, 8, 14 and 26 rumble north
across the bridges. Night trams N°51, 53 and 54.
37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the
heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friendlier prices
and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and
more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights,
foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accommodation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Long a disregarded industrial area (with the fabulous Staropramen brewery still in its midst), Smíchov (G-5/6 and westwards) is making amazing steps towards becoming another
funky area. Countless restaurants and bars cater to a young
Czech crowd. Anděl metro station is in the district’s heart;
night trams N°54,58 and 59 will take you away from it all.
French
Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. 233 370
American
La Creperie J-1, Praha 7, Janovského 4, MVltavská,
tel. 220 87 80 40, www.lacreperie.cz. If you fancy a
culinary change of scene, try a taste of Brittany in the heart
of Holešovice. The galettes and crepes are paper-thin, and although the fillings are not as plentiful as you’d like, it does give
you the excuse to try a couple of them. Vegetarians are well
catered for. They do some very reasonable wines, and even
Breton cider. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30 - 120Kč). P
Le Bistro de Marléne Praha 6, Schwaigerova 59/3,
tel. 224 92 18 53, www.bistrotdemarlene.cz. Staple of
the French expat and diplomat scene for a number of years,
its diminutive menu is is a major plus. Crafted French country
recipes can be accompanied by beautiful wines - although
these will empty your pockets. Others have come and gone,
this place is the real thing although it has now moved to the
Villa Schwaiger hotel. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:30;
Sat 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (370 - 570Kč). AGP
International
Fraktal H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 1, MHradčanská, tel.
777 79 40 94, www.fraktalbar.com. Fraktal has grown up
into Mexican-leaning eatery with massive portions while the
night time onus is definitely still into beer drinking. Brunch runs
till 15:30 at weekends. Daily menu includes burgers (some
heading to the boutique end of the scale; see goat cheese
and pistachio) and steaks. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
11:30 - 01:00. (60 - 200Kč). BEK
Letenský zámeček I-2, Praha 7, Leteské sady 341,
MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 82 00, www.letenskyzamecek.cz. A mock castle perched high above the city in
Letná park, this is a great place to come in the summer. To
one side, the cheaper tables are served by the grill sheds, to
the other, decent salads, pastas and fish are escorted from
the chateau itself. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (100 - 300Kč).
PTAGB
Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. 233
54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something completely
different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave
made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is
cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the
classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant
breast with forest herbs and sage. Find Svatá Klára near
Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town. QOpen 18:00
- 01:00. (300 - 1,440Kč)
Spanish
La Bodega Flamenca H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 5,
MVltavská, tel. 233 37 40 75. A colourfully-tiled cellar that
replicates the small-dish-rattling ways of a tapas bar. The food
is a delight, and the staff are genuinely happy to see you. And
should you fancy some salsa on the dancefloor rather than
on your plate, then this is the place for you. QOpen 17:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. (150 - 300Kč). EGP
359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of
trams all over the place – from the plastic chairs to the hand
railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that
the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French
multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Un Chien Andalou H-1, Praha 7, Korunovační 4, tel.
731 22 11 67. Red and louche, this spot is perfect for some
decadent though faintly sophisticated boozing. It’s dark and
boudoir-like, with sofas mingling with tables and the bar
crowd. Live music rears its head occasionally though cool
tunes make an appearance nightly. Go for a looksee and you
might never leave. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. 233
37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You’ll have plenty of time to
admire the owner’s welding work, in the form of outlandish
bar stools, whilst waiting for them to relocate your order in
the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great
soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen 17:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E
Clubs in Letná
Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. 736 53 50 53,
www.crossclub.cz. An underground legend has emerged
into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. Jungle,
drum ‘n base, house and chill have their own rooms and
the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of
the funkiest, most inventive décor around. QOpen 14:00
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. EK
Face To Face Praha 7, Ostrov Štvanice 1125, MVltavská, tel. 242 49 83 53/607 18 03 31, www.facetoface.cz. Rub shoulders and, if you play your cards right,
perhaps more with the young Czech crowd at this club which
hosts theme nights on and around its 3 dance floors, many
bars and viewing balcony. Huge and popular, the music runs
from classic hits of the 80s to the best of Czech pop. Q Open
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 100Kč. BP
Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 283 87 05 22, www.mecca.cz. One can hardly shuffle
from one foot to other without falling into the lap of some
super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of the huge white
sofas. Great music and vibe, check out free Wednesdays
and the superb selectro nights.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri
11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission
150 - 200Kč. AEPU
Misch Masch I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 61, MVltavská,
tel. 603 22 22 27, www.mischmasch.cz. The legendary
club of Prague of old, well, Prague of 2002 anyway, has been
refurbed and reopened to much noise, fanfare and acclaim.
A good line up of local and international DJs keep the beats
going on the dance, oldies and black music zones. Q Open
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Admission 50Kč/100Kč Fri & Sat
22:00 - 04:00.
International
Mirage G-1, Praha 5, Náměstí 14. října 17, MAnděl,
Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233
tel. 257 31 13 84, www.miragebar.cz. The service
matches the classy décor and menu and the Bloody Mary is
pretty damn good too. Mirage offers quality sushi, breakfast,
baguettes, fondue, a 99Kč daily special, plus the usual
international menu items. Good cocktails, perfect espresso
and wines from 120Kč make this a great spot for a chat or
dinner. QOpen 08.00 - 24.00, Sat, Sun 10.00 - 24.00. (60
- 350Kč). PAB
TGI Fridays Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257 28
Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl,
62 61, www.tgifridays.cz. Another location for the same as
it ever was slice of Americana although this one has cheaper
prices than its Old Town sibling and shares its bathrooms with
Planet Sushi next door. The rejuvenation of this area is underlined by the location here of Prague’s second TGIF. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 400Kč). AGPTW
tel. 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is
well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps
the place warm, although is more than pizza on their menu.
Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and spinach is
delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. The plate of
chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin a huge meal for
139Kč. All in all a great place. The interesting looking music
bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (85 - 260Kč).
Brewery restaurants
Na Verandách Praha 5, Nádražní 84, MAnděl, tel. 257
19 11 11, www.ppivovary.cz. Enjoy Czech and regional specialties with the freshest Staropramen in town at the brewery
restaurant. The basic furniture seats tourists, businessmen,
hair-of-the-dog drinkers and even ladies who lunch. The
halůsky, a variation of spätzl noodles, with goat cheese and
crispy bacon, and the gulaš, of course, are recommended. For
the beer, try the turbid Kvasničák, an unfiltered, unpasteurised
yeast beer (25Kč). All Interbrew’s other beers are available
too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200Kč). B
Cafés
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl. The
future of the café for Prague with internet in the back (free 15
minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech
or English, it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls.
Smoothies and café frappé will prove more popular as summer
arrives. Cheap Czech Mex standards make up the menu after the
more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W
Czech
Czech Folklore Na Zlíchově 18, tel. 251 522 255,
www.folkloregarden.cz. If you’re not one to sit still during
a meal, then this is the restaurant for you. At Czech Folklore,
you’re fed large portions of traditional Czech food and beer,
and simultaneously entertained with a three-hour show with
live music and folk dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a countrystyle party; active participation is welcomed. Czech Folklore is
south of Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen
20:00 - 22:30. (550 - 990Kč). ABEP
Grotta Praha 5, Ostrovského 7, MAnděl, tel. 251 56
27 50, www.grotta.mtbike.cz. Just up the hill from Anděl
bus station, this cellar restaurant is a great find. Attentive
staff are welcoming as the arched and alcoved room. Food
is large, filling, delicious and curiously named. Try Bloodied
squirrel with asparagus or Knight’s sword with chicken steak.
Alternatively, go for the Czech regulars. Excellent. And the
beer is cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
(99 - 225Kč). AP
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)
Wigwam G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 54, MAnděl, tel. 603
50 81 20, www.cafebarwigwam.cz. Vaguely Aztec/Latino
décor but with an international menu leaning towards the
Oriental side of the globe and with no Mexican dishes at all.
Excellent burgers and crisp fries join pasta, salads, steak,
duck and chicken plus Thai curry and noodles dishes on their
good menu. Sit in the garden complete with guardian angel
or inside in one of their many rooms. Cool photography, one
of the best waitresses yet and well priced drinks, including
Mezcal. Budvar 29Kč make this a great find. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00. (95 - 255Kč). B
Japanese
Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, tel.
251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japanese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its
authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become
very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi,
sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done.
Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00
- 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 - 440Kč). AGP
Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257
28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban
bustle of Anděl/Smíchov’s busy thoroughfare, although the
ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared
bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and
complete menu including yami rolls and deserts provide an
alternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 750Kč). AGP
Pool Café Praha 5, Ralická 1/B (Anděl City), MAnděl,
tel. 226 08 21 32/737 04 91 58, www.sushigohome.cz.
From the makers of SushiPoint at the Myslbek centre comes
the same menu in more laid back surroundings. It’s all a tad
Hockney inside with a refracting pool-like paint job, but the
sushi, sashimi and nigiri are the same high quality.QOpen
10:00 - 12:00. (180 - 600Kč). A
Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel. 603
24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the best sushi,
this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi set and nine piece
Sashimi set was handsomely presented and deliciously refreshing. Superb service and intimate setting make this a continual
favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (250 - 500Kč). AP
April - May 2007
69
70
FOOD & DRINK IN SMÍCHOV & ANDĚL
Lebanese
Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5, Plzeňská
8, MAnděl. It’s true, Safir is in a mall and it is self service, but
for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush, tabouleh, fatoush,
falafel and gyros, you cannot complain with the flavour or price.
Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken in Mediterranean veggies etc. are daily specials and for the real fast foodies, grab a
sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 200Kč). PTU
Mexican
Hombre del Mundo Mexicano Praha 5, Nádražní 21,
MAnděl, tel. 257 32 69 02. From the makers of Corleone Pizza
comes this pseudo-Czech-Mex playing Sade, serving hit and miss
meals and some mean cocktails. The margarita is excellent, not
made of the too-sweet mix, mojitos similarly well crafted and all
cocktails can be virginised if you so wish. The food, tender chicken
steak, sizzling & spicy fajitas (not enough guac or salsa – although
the latter is spicy), odd quesadillas, dry nachos, like we say, hit and
miss. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (90 - 100Kč).
Seafood
La Cambusa Praha 5, Klicperova 2, MAnděl, tel. 257
31 79 49, www.lacambusa.cz. This provincial Italian
kitchen serves up a small range of saltwater fish (as opposed
to shellfish). In a landlocked country such as this, it’s a good
sign, albeit an expensive one. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun. (300 - 1,300Kč). AGP
Bars
Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl,
tel. 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space is
part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an old
Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged iron
work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its
historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous
for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio
system, where you can hear various styles of music from
famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00,
Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE
Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. 257 32 72
51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers to
scan the crowd and check out who’s who this evening, the split
levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage,
and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together for
any conversation. It’s sleek, chic and designed to empty NYC
wannabes’ pockets with style. The great menu has a Mediterranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. ABGP
Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel.
777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar in Anděl,
with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third largest in
Europe. With good overhangs and some tough lines, the wall
will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply quenched in the
popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is vertical flirting.
A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
60Kč per day. BP
Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. 257 32
24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might mean angel in Czech,
but this part of town is acquiring a devilish reputation. Pekelnej,
meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, red drapery and attitude. DJs
spin nightly although the lack of dance floor means you have to
jostle with one another. Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80Kč and
Czech wine from 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00.
The Swamp Praha 1, Ujezd 5/558. The anarchic spirit of
Hawkeye’s tent at the Mash 4077 lives on in this cavernous
bar in Smíchov where the phat beats emanating from the
DJ seem to shift the smoky air while a varied set of drinkers
fill the many rooms, nook and crannies. Head down, down,
down the stairs and join the fun from early to late – or vice
versa. Excellent bar staff. Tram to Švandovo divadlo. QOpen
10:00 - 04:00.
Clubs
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TIRANA
Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel.
2005 - 2006
257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its
way to glor y, and the way is paved by Fu turum’s, er,
futuristic rooms. Its ultra modern conversions with eccentric lighting and exposed metal and brick is inventive.
The place hosts launch par ties for Czech bands, the
odd cultural festival and half-decent DJs. Fridays host
their popular 80s & 90s night. Q Open 20:00 - 03:00.
Admission 100Kč. E
TALLINN
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Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT blok 7, tel. 257 21
14 39, www.klub007strahov.cz. Skulking in the basement
of a block of student accommodation near Stadion Strahov,
this hardcore/punk and hip-hop club has been keeping study
results bad for years. QOpen 19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30
- 02:00. E
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Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19,
w w w.popocafepetl.cz. New cellar music club from
Popocafeptel who have cool bars at two other locations.
The club has a wine bar attached which can double as a
chill out room. The space is small but well utilised and
already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings
are an international bunch from homegrown talent to
bands/members from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have
proved a good night for Gi tans (CZ) and their g ypsy
nights. Gigs begin at 20.30. Admission up to 150Kč.
Q Open 16.00 - 02.00. E
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Punto Azul Praha 5, Kroftova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257 32
85 94, www.puntoazul.cz. If you tire of laughing at coked-up
Martini people as the raison d’etre of your night life, try, as a
suitable antidote, a long night with scruffy local ragamuffins
playing tunes ranging between drum’n’bass, underground
techno and deep house. A fine selection of cheap beers in a
comfy budget bar/club with plenty of space to lounge around.
QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 03:00. Admission
50 - 100Kč. E
U Bukanýra
G-6, Praha 5, Hořejší nábřeží, MAnděl, tel. 608 97 35
82, www.bukanyr.cz. Find Bukanýra, a houseboat-looking
floating bar and club at it’s new address under Palackého
most. It’s small but friendly and always busy with chilled
groups lounging in the comfortable group seating arrangements. Various DJs spin discs while boozers smooze.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. Club open Thu - Sat
19:00 - 03:00. B
U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. 257
32 91 54, w w w.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence
between a munched out smokey dive of a bar and a
club because it’s open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in
the same vein that it was started in a few years ago, is
the receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau
across the river. Q Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun.
Admission 50 - 100Kč.
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee (around
500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if you are there
to pay for other services immediately. Many of the central
clubs pay men and women to entice you off the street and
into their nearby establishments, but if you’re heading
somewhere by taxi, make sure you’re taken to the one
you want to go to rather than the one the taxi driver gets
commission from.
Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. 257 31 00 43/257
31 00 44, bigsister@bigsister.net, www.bigsister.net. Forget about big brother watching you, this is voyeurism Big Sister
style. Prague’s first online brothel has 40 girls, 58 cameras and
you being beamed live onto the internet via 17 videostreams.
Pay €10 entrance, sign away your anonymity (masks are not
allowed) and the girls are free. Add the theme rooms, pool,
sauna, a new restaurant and live shows in the club downstairs
for a unique experience. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. A
Club 161 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161, MKřižíkova,
tel. 284 81 02 62, 161@nightclub161.cz, www.club161.
cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day) to
12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and
pole for strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take
your pick of four rooms and/or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has
toys, PVC everything and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free
entrance and decent bar prices.QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 06:00. AL
Club 600 Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. 269 76 128, www.
c600.cz. All the fun of the fair from three in the afternoon to
the very early hours of the morning. Always a good number of
Czech girls on hand to provide you with whatever assistance
and relaxation you may need. QOpen 15:00 - 05:00.
K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2,
Korunní 5, MNám. Míru, tel.
224 25 05 05, www.k5relax.
cz. The best club in Prague, and
considered by experts as one of
the top sex clubs any where in
Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on
management who will answer all of your questions in as
many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls
who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A
computerised payment system ensures that you will not
be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen
16:00 - 04:00. A
Darling Cabaret
I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a, MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz. One of the biggest and most popular of the adult clubs
in town but it’s not cheap as it caters for the comparatively
rich tourists. Head over to Václavské nám. and just try to miss
it... you’ve probably seen and been photographed next to their
limo too. Watch cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and
table dancing courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen
12:00 - 05:00, Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
Desire Cabaret
I-5, Praha 1, V Jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. 296 338 539,
inf o@desire-cabaret.cz, w w w.desire-cabaret.cz.
Centrally located night club with all the usual attractions,
including erotic dancers, striptease, lesbian shows and full
service massage. Popular with visitors, pay them a visit and
you will discover why.
April - May 2007
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ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. 241 40 98
88, www.escade.cz. Escade is home to thirty girls every
night for your viewing (and more) pleasure. Get comfortable
in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick of one of their
spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual strip and erotic
shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also offers soft S&M,
services for couple, special private arrangements and an
escort service.Q Open 24 hrs. AP
Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. 222 78
00 48/777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. Extasy offers a
courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a free welcome
drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quality girls
and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and her drill.
Anyway, it’s all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance,
erotic and lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and
even a waterbed. Extasy also hosts film and photo shoots.
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A
FKK Prague Budějovická 159, Jesenice, tel. 234 09 56
66/608 82 40 23, www.fkk-prague.cz. A total experience
from arrival, when your clothes and valuables enter a locker
and you enter a world of pools, saunas and erotic shows
featuring over 20 girls. Rooms have free porn, mirrors and
themes. Admission is 500Kč with free buffet. FKK is 15km
south of town; their taxi will fetch you for 200-300Kč. See the
website for a discount coupon. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. A
Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. 608 84 41 43,
www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you can get
away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there
just to please you. And believe us, they will. Food, drinks,
free transport but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště
grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
76
PRAGUE CASTLE
THE ESSENTIALS
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods.
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica,
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral,
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture
plus marching soldiers and entertainment.
Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224
37 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There’s an information centre in
the second courtyard, where you can find out what time the
changing of the guard takes place, buy tickets and get audio
guides. There are four ways to approach the castle. By far
the best way is to take tram N°22 or 23 to the Pohořelec stop,
where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská
district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance
on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk
by getting off the tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from
where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up
Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The
worst approach is up the Staré zámecké schody steps near
Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way
down. Q Buildings & Info open 09:00 - 17:00. Courtyards
(admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. Castles gardens and
Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to the Cathedral, Old
King’s Palace, St. George’s, Powder Tower and Golden Lane:
350Kč. Cathedral, Old King’s Palace & Golden Lane: 220Kč.
St. Vitus Cathedral 100Kč. Reductions for families.
Schwarzenberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 2. The most
distinctive and largest of the buildings on the cobbled square
sweeping into the castle is this palace with decorated bricks.
Built between 1545 -1563, the building has been home to
the Museum of Military History since 1945. QOpen 09:00
Sternberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác
from 1698, part of the National Gallery and home of the collection of European art, including Rubens and Rembrandt. In
1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million worth of Picassos. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50/20Kč.
First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the
soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the
film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard.
Then, move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms,
which are not open to the public. These are numerous and
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the
Czechoslovak Communist Party.
Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria
Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of
the entrances into the castle. Exit under the archway to reach
the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams N°22 & 23.
St. Vitus Cathedral St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the
nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s
greatest landmark. Entrance is no longer free, 100Kč gets you
across the threshold. A ticket gets you entrance into the royal
crypt; another ticket grants access to the 287 steps to the
top of the tower. Work on the present cathedral was started
in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Don’t miss the
beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgement of Christ on
the exterior of the cathedral.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Old Royal Palace One of the oldest and most impressive
parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135
and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to
the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The magnificent
Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, coronations
and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn in here, and
this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place.
The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition.
Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
I f you see nothing else, do not miss these sights.
Obviously in this city that has been a destination for
hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and
one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering
around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires
are right fully what Prague is renowned for. But
keep an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not
renowned for their cleaning-up ability.
National Theatre (Národní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 90 16 68. This lavish neo-Renaissance building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown
of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National Theatre. The
building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately
destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883.
Old Town Square (Staroměstská náměstí) E-3,
St George’s Basilica The small Romanesque church lurking behind a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus.
Now deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel
on the right of the entrance are the bones of St. Ludmila, the
first Czech saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.
Golden Lane The phrase ‘picturesque street’ might have
been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature workers’ cottages - now shops. It was on this street,
or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to
discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz
Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.
Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till
the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as
you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner,
Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his
1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat North of the castle walls
are a succession of orderly and manicured gardens, laid
out in 1534 and are home to the Ball Game Hall. The Stag
Moat below the ramparts of the castle was reopened to the
general public by Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been
a stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of
them by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side
of the castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main
castle gate. The main garden on the southern side is the
ramparts garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá
Strana. The Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by
the Paradise Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to
the Hartig Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the
Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon). In the 1920s and 30s the
Rampart Gardens were redesigned by the Slovak architect
Josip Plečnik. Unfortunately, his work was only seen for a
brief time before they were closed to the spying masses,
and again, Havel insisted that they be reopened. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Palace Gardens B-1, Valdštejnská 12. A large set of
steeply terraced gardens leading up to the castle, punctuated
with pavilions, galleries and fountains. The steep climb up to
the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful landscaping and stunning views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 80/40Kč, families 180Kč.
Charles Bridge (Karlův most) C-3, Praha 1,
MStaroměstská. Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town)
and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s
most beautiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the
figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They
symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph
over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day
with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the
illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and
witness the saints emerging from the mist.
Municipal House (Obecní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám.
Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, www.
obecni-dum.cz. This magnificent building holds two restaurants, a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and classical
music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in a stunning Art
Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly
restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian
state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also
here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders
of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and
the state’s transformation to democracy.
Tourist information
Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha
1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 49 17
64/224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets,
accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps
and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1,
(Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, tel. 236 00 25
62, www.prague-info.cz. This excellent official tourist
information centre provides vocal and written information
in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable
staff, plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation. For
general information in English, Czech or German call tel.
124 44. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, Malá
Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.
Praha 1, MStaroměstská. The indisputable heart of
Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend
of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and neo-styles. The square is notable for its
constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history
as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments.
Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of
houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of
the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing
of the Prague Spring.
Town Hall & Astronomical clock E-3, Praha 1,
Staroměstské nám., MStaroměstská. The 14th century
Town Hall complex features a tower with an astronomical
clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour
Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the
allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and
the Rooster. It sounds more impressive than it actually is.
The climb or lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning
views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč.
Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad.
The rocky cliff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the
hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the
birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth.
This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and
predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high
castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th
century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built the royal mint here,
and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the
following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace
and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the
river. Within the fortress confines is the national cemetery
(Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the
final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers
and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and
Antonín Dvořák. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
Wenceslas Square F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám.,
MMůstek. Václavské náměstí is actually a boulevard
running down from the National Museum and the equestrian
statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of
a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally
come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and
this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their
keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party.
Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel
Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night
it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the
square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a
tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.
April - May 2007
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WHAT TO SEE
Museums & Galleries
Aviation Museum Praha 9, Mladoboleslavská, tel. 220
20 75 13, www.militarymuseum.cz. A meticulous historical collection of the Czech airforce. 275 airplanes, ranging
from MIG fighters to those alarming looking constructions of
paper and wood that madmen once flew in.QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30/15Kč.
Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague.cz. The angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the minimalist and
abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, furniture, ceramics
and architecture on show at this small but delightful museum.
Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is beautifully illustrated
by the variety of exhibits. The House at the Black Madonna,
which houses the museum, was built in 1911 as a department
store and is itself a monument to Cubism. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč.
WHAT TO SEE
Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17.
listopadu 2, tel. 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. Basically,
this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit showcases
what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, clothing, photographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century. You won’t
bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he believed that
an esthetic object is only art if it has no use (he’s also long
dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz Josef becoming emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/30Kč. A
Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská
3, tel. 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický Palac,
in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and the
origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored
during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum,
which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the
country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 40Kč.
Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel.
Walking Tours
City Walks, tel. 608 20 09 12/222 24 45 31,
www.praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the four
hour Insider Tour of the city including Staroměstská, Nové
Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The tour
also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride on
the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of
Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30.
Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. 281
91 76 42/603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. These cool
cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, less if
you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects of
Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical
Clock at the blue umbrella.
221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard building)
near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the collection
of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible array of
pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from the 17th
century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
51 60 64/777 07 07 84, fax 222 52 05 73, www.
praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led walks starting at the Astronomical clock at various times; just look for
the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city centre or
on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000Kč.
Real Tour I-5, tel. 602 45 94 81, www.walkingtoursprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the
four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30
at the horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The
walk includes a break at a pub and ends at the castle.
Pick-ups at 12:00 from the Traveller’s Hostel on Dlouhá
and the Clown and Bard. Walks on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat
only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct.
Cihelná 2b, tel. 257 53 55 07, www.kafkamuseum.cz.
This museum illuminates the crucial relationship between the
man and the city. It is divided into Existential Space where
we see what Prague did with and to Kafka, and Imaginary
Topography which looks at how Kafka creates enigmatic
layers of his city through first editions and letters, diaries and
manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
ská, tel. 296 12 49 00, www.dp-praha.cz/en/hist-muz.
htm. See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from
the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read
the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings,
maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly
from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the
castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public
holidays only 09:00 - 17:00.
Troja Chateau Praha 1, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží
Holešovice, tel. 283 85 16 14, www.citygalleryprague.
cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built for Count
Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens littered
with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical
gardens and next to the Zoo.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 120/60Kč, gardens free.
Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. 224 30 11 11,
www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and
contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry.
The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how
many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to
Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 300Kč.
Waxwork Museum H-4, Praha 1, 28. října 13, tel.
tel. 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Sitting prettily on the west bank of the Vltava is this large collection of
Central European modern art with exhibitions of works by
painter František Kupka, cubist sculpture by Otto Gutfreund
and the works of collage artist and poet Jiří Kolář. The cafe
overlooking the river is fabulous. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Lapidarium Praha 7, Výstaviště, tel. 233 37 56 36,
www.nm.cz. A superb permanent exhibition of stone
sculpture in the Czech lands from 11th to 19th century. In
an international competition in 1995, the collection ranked
among the ten most beautiful expositions in Europe. QOpen
12:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč.
Velotrixi, www.velotrixi.com. These modern rick-
Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří
shaws are powered by young bilingual men with strong
legs – although a small electric motor does kick in to
help them up hills. From past successes since launching
in Berlin in 1997, velotrixis are now transporting tourists
and locals alike in 40 towns in 17 countries and now they
are in Prague. These two passenger pseudo-vehicles
run 45 minute routes round the tourist areas of town for
600Kč. If you see an empty one, flag him down - short
rides are available for a 200Kč minimum - or call free on
800 88 08 41. The drivers have cell phones and will pick
you up. It can get bumpy on the cobbles, but it’s a lazy,
airy way to see the sights (and get your photo taken).
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
11, tel. 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur.cz. This
museum contains odd scribblings on grains of rice, the
Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the world’s smallest
book, and minitures of masterpieces. They have magnifying
glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 40Kč.
Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcan-
Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7,
Kafka Museum C-2, Praha 1, Hergetova Cihelna,
Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradská 28, tel. 222
National Museum F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 68, tel.
224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include
pre-historical, mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological,
and there is a good collection of bronze statues of famous
Czechs is in the pantheon of the building. One of the most
celebrated buildings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly
as impressive. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed every first Tue
of the month. Admission 80/40Kč.
Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek,
tel. 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. A fitting tribute to
artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the
accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and
huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos),
or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads.
Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 120Kč.
224 22 98 52, www.waxmuseumprague.cz. Come and
test your knowledge of famous Czechs or study the rostrum
of world dictators and communist leaders - either way this
is a wonderful opportunity to utilise your imagination to its
fullest extent. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Also at Mostecká 18
and Melantrichova 5. Admission 250/80Kč.
Churches
Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská Kaple) D-3, Praha
1, Betlémské náměstí, MStaroměstská. From 1402 to
1412, Jan Hus preached at the Bethlehem Chapel, hence it’s
significance for non-Catholics, but in 1622, the Jesuits took
control of the chapel and Catholic mass became the service
of the day. Then in 1786 it was levelled, only to be rebuilt
(somewhat strangely) by the communists, who had preserved
its architectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen
to exploit ithe chapel’s symbolism as an historic emblem of
Czech national pride. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel-
itská 9, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 46. This house of
worship was built by German Lutherans between 1611-1615.
To the right of the entrance is a commemorative site to the
16th century Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with
friar John of the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what
is known as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the
church’s claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus
known as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage
site of sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and
a couple of unnamed miracles that have been attached to
it. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00.
Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Lorentánské nám. 7. One of the
country’s most famous places of pilgrimage, this chapel is
just a quick walk from the main entrance to the castle. Built
between 1626-1720, this Baroque building contains, among
other icons and objects, a painting of a bearded lady, ornate
friezes, bejewelled icons and a high quota of chubby-cheeked
cherubs. The small museum also houses a collection of
diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel there is the
brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Italy which
was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning angels.
Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was supposedly
caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Q Open
09:15 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 80/60Kč.
Our Lady of Snow E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám,
MMůstek. The towering Gothic torso hidden near Václavské
náměstí was started off in 1347 by Charles IV as a Carmelite
order monastery. Construction was stopped by the Hussites
in 1419, and only the 34m-high choir of the planned 110mlong church was finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins
of the church in 1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar. The peaceful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská
zahrada) are an excellent place to soak up the sun.
Ss. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1,
Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. 224 92 06 86. This
Orthodox church was built in honour of St. Cyril and Methodius,
the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet. However, most
people know about this church because of what happened
here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18, 1942 when the
Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech parachutists
involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor Heydrich
were hiding in the crypt.Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
St. Ignatius Church H-5, Praha 2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo
náměstí, tel. 224 92 12 54. The construction of what
was intended to be a basilica began in 1665 on these very
grounds. In 1671 the church alongside Karlovo Square was
finally completed and the large statue of Saint Ignatius, the
founder of the Jesuit order, was placed on top. The church is
still active and run by Jesuit monks.
St. Nicholas Church B-2, Praha1, Malostranské nám.
38, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 42 15. Construction of
this Baroque pile began in 1673, but it would be nearly another
80 years until the Jesuits completed it. Peer closely at the copper statue of St. Nicholas above the gold coated altar; the two
statues below him are of St. Ignatius Loyola and St. Francis Xavier.
The ceiling fresco depicts the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also
of interest is the organ, which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers,
and it was these very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to
Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Admission 25/50Kč.
Strahov Monastery Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel.
233 10 77 18, www.strahovskyklaster.cz. The Strahov
Monastery has stood on the approach to the castle since
1140. Today, this Romanesque monastery houses various
museums for religious arts and is home to the quite stunning central chapel. The Museum of Czech Literature (open
09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 - 17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed
in the monastic libraries. The Theological and Philosophical
Halls are superb but can only be viewed from the doorways.
Items available for closer inspection are manuscripts from
the 14th century, a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of
crabs, fish, shells and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the
central courtyard (open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč)
has one of the finest collections of monastic art in Central
Europe. Trams N°22,23 to Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission 60/40Kč.
April - May 2007
79
80
WHAT TO SEE
WHAT TO SEE
Landmarks
Jewish Prague
Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Europe,
and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the story goes,
Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a millennium ago.
The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 when
Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which permitted the
free exercise of religion and the secularisation of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called Josefov
to this day in his honour. From the 1880s, in the name of
slum-clearing, most of Josefov was razed to the ground and
only a few synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town
hall remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau
buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement
buildings. Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s
Jewish legacy and the post-war communists did little to
alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jewish
inhabitants chose to emigrate.
Jewish Museum E-2, Praha 1, U Staré školy 1, tel.
221 71 15 62, www.jewishmuseum.cz. The starting
point for an exploration of Prague’s Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea for a museum encompassing
the Jewish Quarter is not new. The reason that the main
buildings and cemetery in the Jewish Quarter are still intact,
is that Hitler intended to transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture. The Jewish Museum supervises
the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the
Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel and Spanish Synagogues, but not
the Old New Synagogue, although you can buy a combined
ticket for entry to all. You’ll need to go early to avoid the
crowds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat. Admission
300/200Kč for all sights.
Klausen Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, U Starého
hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque building which houses a
permanent exhibition showing Jewish customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition. Next door is the
Ceremonial Hall.
Maisel Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Maiselova 10. Maisel
Synagogue is home to a large collection of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families by the Nazis. Their
permanent exhibition, The History of Jews in Bohemia
and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit.
Pinkas Synagogue D-2, Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls
inside Pinkas Synagogue are chillingly covered with the
names of 77,297 Jewish Holocaust victims from Bohemia
and Moravia. There is also a permanent exhibition of
children’s drawings from Terezin concentration camp, drawn
between 1942 and 1944.
Old Jewish Cemetery D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Synagogue). From the 14th century
until 1747, this was the final resting place for Prague’s
Jewish community; some 12,000 graves are said to be piled
one on top of the other. Oldest and most famous is that of
Rabbi Loew, which is the grave with the most pebbles piled
on top of it. To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover
their heads; kippas are provided at the entrance.
Spanish Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 12. This
neo-Moorish structure was built in 1868 to replace the
previously demolished Old Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and
stained glass. Restored in 1998, the synagogue houses an
exhibition on the history of Czech Jews.
Funicular Railway A-4, Újezd tram stop. The funicular
Old New Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 2. Of
runs up Petřin Hill providing beautiful views of Prague and the
castle. There are two restaurants sitting at the half-way point
- there is a station there. Use regular 20Kč tickets. Trams run
at 15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20.
all the synagogues in Prague, this is perhaps the most
important. It has stood here since the 13th century, and
despite fires, floods and the Nazi occupation, remains today
the functional, spiritual centre of the Jewish community.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 200Kč.
Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1. The Klementi-
High Synagogue E-2, Praha 1, Červená 4. The High
Synagogue is no longer open to the public. It is next to the
Old New Synagogue - note the clock on the façade of the
pink building next door; it has Hebrew numbers and turns
counter-clockwise.
City tours
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 224 19 72 42,
Jubilee Synagogue I-4, Praha 1, Jeruzalémská
1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02. The newest, biggest, and
arguably most spectacular of Prague’s synagogues, the
Jubilee Synagogue is so called because it was decided upon
on the 50th anniversary of the accession of Franz Joseph
I. Built in pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept
1906 during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue has
a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visitors from 23
Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except Saturdays).
www.cedok.cz. The three and a half-hour city tour leaves
daily at 09:30 from Nám. Republiky. Prices from 560Kč per
person. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A
New Jewish Cemetery Praha 3, Vinohradská,
MŽelivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much larger and much
less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. Founded in 1890,
it has some impressive graves from the early 1900s. Franz
Kafka is buried at grave N°137.
Bohemia Travel Service I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 25,
tel. 224 82 62 62, www.citytours.cz. The three-hour city
tour costs 560Kč. Tours leave from Národní 38. You may
request a free pick-up and drop-off at your hotel. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. A
Žižkov Jewish Cemetery Prague 3, Fibichova. Only
a peaceful small corner remains of this Jewish cemetary
at the foot of the TV tower. Originally a plague cemetary
established well away from the city limits in 1680, 40,000
people were buried here until 1890. Baroque, Empire and
Romantic style tombstones survived the ages. Q Open
Tue, Thu 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč.
Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish children
were able to escape from German-occupied Prague in the
spring and summer of 1939, before war broke out, thanks
to the efforts of the man dubbed (post-Spielberg, of course)
the Schindler of Prague. Bill Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker, arranged papers and transport for three
trainloads of children - the Kindertransporte - to leave the
city and travel via the Netherlands to safety in London. A
fourth train left Prague on the eve of the war but it never
reached the Netherlands and was not heard of again. In
August 1939 Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years
before his story became known.
Best Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. 284 81 41 41,
www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus tour of the city
costs 350Kč/person and leaves daily at 10:00, 14:00 and
16:00 from F-4, Václavské nám. 27. Q 24 hours. A
Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel.
222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax 222 23 24 29,
office@cityrama.cz, www.cityrama.cz. Explore the
Golden Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in
Prague and beyond. The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00)
joins boat tours, night explorations, excursions around the
country and the region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 14:00. A
Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. 224 21 24
73, fax 224 23 97 52, www.martintour.cz. Their short
city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person.
num dates to 1232. The building was used as a Jesuit college until 1773 when it was given to Charles University. An
important astronomical observation tower was completed
in 1722 and the Chapel of Mirrors was created in 1724.
Today, the Klementinum houses the National Library, 12
hard-to-find sundials, musical concerts, a unique view of
Prague and daily tours of its Baroque architecture. See
Culture & Events on page 10 for the venue’s classical
music concerts.
National Memorial K-3, Praha 3, Na Vrchu Žižkově.
One of the largest equestrian statues in the world dominates
the hill overlooking the north eastern district of Žižkov. The
16.5 ton statue commemorates the Hussite hero, Jan Žižka.
Behind the statue is the national mausoleum, built originally
as a memorial to World War I Czechoslovak legions, and
then taken over as the resting place for the great and the
not very good Communists. The first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled in slivovice and put on
display here. Unfortunately the preservation was not wholly
successful and the body started to putrefy from the feet up,
shocking the odd visiting school party as their national hero
literally started to fall apart before their very eyes. His body
was returned to his family in 1990 and later buried in the
cemetery in Olšanské.
TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího z
Poděbrad, tel. 267 00 57 78, fax 222 72 40 14, www.
tower.cz. This huge silver tower with funny-looking boxes
attached to it was built between 1985 and 1992. Swift lifts
whisk you to a fantastic panorama of the city, then descend
a few floors to dine whilst contemplating the intricacies of
vertigo. The scary black babies crawling all over the tower are
an art installation by David Černy that became permanent.
And now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink
and purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
Prague Passenger Shipping H-6, Praha 2, Rašínovo
nábřeží, tel. 224 93 00 17/605 29 51 11, fax 224 93
00 22, www.paroplavba.cz. All aboard the skylark for slow,
salubrious trips either round the corner to the zoo or to see
the wildlife in exotic locations such as Hamburg.
Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská
52, tel. 222 31 46 61/602 37 55 52, fax 222 31 80
17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat trips and excursions. Q A
Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Široká 9, tel.
222 32 19 51, fax 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz.
Besides doing the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also
organises an extensive array of Jewish history and culture
tours in Prague and throughout Eastern Europe.
Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 1, tel.
296 24 60 70, www.premiant.cz. A variety of tours for
a variety of tourists, there are combination bus and walking tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech
Republic tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague
at 250Kč. Q A
KLEMENTINUM
The most beautiful view of
Prague from the
Astronomical Tower.
The jewels of Baroque
architecture in Baroque Library
Hall and Mirror Chapel.
Daily tours from 10:00
Daily classical music concerts in the
unique Mirror Chapel,
except for Monday.
For details and times for concerts,
see the classical music programme
on page 10.
The Klementinum may be accessed from Karlova ulice,
Krizovnicke namesti and Marianske namesti.
Tickets, reservations and information are available in the lobby of the
Mirror Chapel, by calling +420 222 220 879 and at www.klementinum.cz
April - May 2007
81
82
GETTING AROUND
Taxis
Car rental
Taxi drivers in Prague are notorious for trying it on with anyone. To see how bad it is, Prague’s mayor recently dressed
up as an Italian tourist and hailed a taxi for a short ride, and
was promptly overcharged five times the official rate. The
starting rate should be about 25Kč, and 20Kč per kilometre
after that (34Kč/25Kč respectively if you hail an honest one
on the street). From central Prague, a ride to the airport has
risen to about 600Kč; a short ride in the city centre should
be about 130Kč, a ride to one of the surrounding districts
up to 200Kč. There’s really no need to agree beforehand on
a price (a good way to get ripped off) if you simply phone
one of the reliable taxi companies listed below who will usually have a car ready under ten minutes. Else, hail only their
cars if you must.
AAA - Radiotaxi , tel. 222 33 32 22, www.aaa.
radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town. Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires
preregistration.
Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. 220
11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The silver cars with AVIS
stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals hall charge 650Kč
for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
City Taxi Zelený Pruh 52, Praha 4, tel. 257 25 72 57,
www.citytaxi.cz. Another of the most reputable firms.
Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 777 25 72 57 but without
a Czech mobile number, they usually don’t send a cab. Now
with a van for cargo transport.
Halotaxi Praha 3, Vinohradská 160, tel. 244 11 44 11,
www.halotaxi.cz.
Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle.
com. A family-run business with some superlative customer
feedback. They wait if your flight is delayed, they give info on
sights and transport on the way into the city, and if there’s
more than one of you, it’s a steal. 1-3 pax 650Kč, 4-5 pax
950Kč, 6-8 pax 1,200Kč. Contact them if you need a limo
or have more passengers.
Sedop Praha 10, Švehlova 25, tel. 271 72 22 22, www.
sedop.cz.
Taxi Praha Praha 5, Vrchlického 9, tel. 222 11 10 00,
www.taxi-praha.cz.
Expect to pay from 450Kč/day for a car but this one will
come emblazoned in advertising and if you’re not fussy
about perceived image, the Škoda Fabia is a great and cheap
drive. You must be over 18 to drive, and you must carry your
driving licence, a vehicle registration card and an ownership
certificate or rental agreement at all times. Most foreign
driving licences are honoured, including those issued in
Canada, USA and the EU. New Zealand and Australian drivers
should have an international driving licence. In the city, the
speed limit is 50km/h, while outside urban areas, the speed
limit is 90km/h and for highways 130km/h. Seatbelts are
compulsory in the front and back seats and lights must be
switched on at all times.
Alimex K-1, Praha 7, Tusarova 39, MVltavská, tel.
233 35 00 01/800 15 01 70, www.alimexcr.cz. The
best-value car rental company in Prague, with prompt, efficient service although the cheapest cars (by a third) come
emblazoned with self advertising. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. Airport office, Parking C, tel. 220 11
48 60, open 08:00 - 22:00.
A-Rent Car I-5, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Millennium Plaza),
tel. 224 21 15 87, fax 224 21 20 32, www.arentcar.cz.
Excellent rental company, with competitive rates and city
central pickups. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Airport office tel.
220 11 43 70, open 07:00 - 19:00.
Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 221 85 12 25,
fax 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (Intercontinental Hotel), tel. 296 63 09 95, fax 222 31 95 95,
www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport office, tel.
220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation centre tel.
235 32 57 13. A
Czechocar CS F-3, Praha 4, 5. května 65 (Congress
Centre), tel. 261 22 20 79, fax 261 17 24 32, www.
czechocar.cz. One-way rental to certain foreign destinations
is also possible. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 16:00. Also at (F-3) Na příkopě 23, tel. 224 22 81 41, open
10:00 - 18:00, closed Sat, Sun; Airport office tel. 220 11 34
54, open 07:00 - 21:00.
Dvorak Rent a Car F-1, Praha 1, Revoluční 25, tel. 224
82 62 60, fax 224 82 62 61, www.dvorak-rentacar.cz.
Limousines and chauffeurs also available. QOpen 08:00
- 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 36 76,
open 08:00 - 21:00.
Europcar E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 28, tel. 224 81 12
90, fax 224 81 00 39, www.europcar.cz. Q Open
08:00 - 20:00. Airport office tel. 235 36 45 31, open 08:00
- 22:00. A
Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. 225 34 50
31, fax 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen 08:00
Buses
Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. 900
14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international buses arrive
at Prague’s Florenc bus station (Autobusové nádraží Praha
Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which is also the watering hole
of several endemic species living solely on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00).
Alternatively, use the handy computer in front of window N°8
to search for your specific bus from the timetables online at
the excellent www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land
transport. Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00,
Sun 09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech National Express (Český Národní Expres) buses to Brno. The kiosk
between window N°4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00
- 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office and also sells
public transport tickets, maps and guides. The nearest ATM is
at Florenc metro, next to the bus station.
Capital Express Praha 7, U Výstaviště 3, tel. 220 87
03 68, fax 220 87 02 49, www.capitalexpress.cz. Buses
from Ostrava, Olomouc, Brno, Prague, Plzen to London. They
also offer connecting UK National Express tickets. QOpen
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 6 (Florenc bus station),
tel. 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European bus
operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen 08:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
GETTING AROUND
- 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15
(Diplomat Hotel), tel. 225 34 50 41,
open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun.
Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open
08:00 - 22:00.
Chauffeur CZ Praha 6, Kladenská
36, tel. 602 36 81 82, fax 235 35 91
15, www.chauffeur.cz. Rent a private
chauffeur who is a “gracefully behaving,
altogether winsome young man” for
rides in and out of Prague. He’ll drive
you to Lisbon for 90,000Kc.
JS Car Praha 4, Psohlavců 1360,
tel. 602 21 64 15, fax 241 72
40 32, www.js-car.cz. Not much
Englsih spoken, but service and price
are excellent.
National Car Rental Praha 5, Za
Opravnou 1, tel. 224 92 37 19, fax
224 91 30 51, www.nationalcar.
cz. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11
45 54, open 08:00 - 22:00, closed
Sat & Sun.
RentPoint Praha 4, Na Chodovci
2457, tel. 267 28 68 22, fax 267 28
68 19, www.rentpoint.cz. QOpen
07:00 - 19:30, Sat 07:00 - 17:00,
Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Also at Praha 5,
Bucharova 16, tel. 251 02 51 33, open
08:00 - 16:30.
Sixt J-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hilton
Hotel), tel. 222 32 49 95, fax 224
84 23 13, w w w.e-sixt.cz. Book
online for some of good rental rates.
And check out their even more budget
version at www.sixti.com. Q Open
08:00 - 22:00. Airport office tel. 220
11 53 46, open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Smart Praha 4, Zelený pruh 95/97,
tel. 724 32 23 22, www.e-autopujcovna.com. Get Smar t cars and
others for some good weekend deals.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat,
Sun.
West Car Praha 6, Veleslavínská
17, tel. 235 36 53 07, fax 235 36 65
52, www.westcarpraha.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Trains
Czech Railways Agency I-3,
Praha 1, V Celnici 6, tel. 972 23
39 30, www.cdtravel.cz. Buy your
train tickets without negotiating the
irritating windows at the stations. They
can do it all here, with a smile and in
English. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Also at
Prague’s main railway stations.
Wasteels J-4, Praha 2, Wilsonova
80 (Hlavní nádraží), tel. 972 24 19
54, www.wasteels.cz. Domestic and
international train ticket sales with the
same prices as Czech Railways, English
spoken and ISIC cards accepted. On
the upper level of the station. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Train schedule
From Prague
To Prague
N°
Dep.
Arr.
City
N°
Dep. Arr.
EC178 06:16 11:12
BERLIN
R60379
05:01 9:49
EC176 08:16 13:12
BERLIN
EC171
06:44 11:21+
EC370 10:34+ 15:12
BERLIN
EC173
08:46 13:21+
EC174 12:34+ 17:12
BERLIN
EC175
10:46 15:21+
EC172 14:34+ 19:12
BERLIN
EC177
12:46 17:21+
EC170 16:34+ 21:12
BERLIN
EC371
14:46 19:34
R60378 18:46 23:42
BERLIN
EC179
16:46 21:34
R377
01:01 06:04
BRATISLAVA**
SC134
05:41 09:30+
EC 279 07:32 11:42
BRATISLAVA**
EC174
08:25 12:25+
R277
07:54 13:18
BRATISLAVA**
EC170
12:25 16:25+
EC171 11:35+ 15:42
BRATISLAVA**
R276
14:44 20:00
EC175 15:35+ 19:42
BRATISLAVA**
R460
15:01 20:30
SC135 17:20 22:13
BRATISLAVA**
EC278
16:22 20:30
SC135 18:26+ 22:13
BRATISLAVA**
R336
20:07 03:29
R375
23:02 04:22
BRATISLAVA**
R376
22:44 03:29
R421
23:02 04:30
BRATISLAVA**
R374
23:44 06:05
R377
23:28+ 06:04
BRATISLAVA**
R761
23:37* 06:04
BRATISLAVA**
EC279 07:32 10:15
BRNO
R874
06:44 10:04
SC75
10:26+ 12:49
BRNO
EC174
09:50 12:25+
EC171 11:35+ 14:15
BRNO
R676
10:24 14:05
Ex 571 16:37+ 19:15
BRNO
SC74
17:07 19:30+
SC 135 17:20 20:49
BRNO
EC278
17:50 20:30
EC 177 17:35+ 20:15
BRNO
R684
18:24 22:00
R683
17:54 21:34
BRNO
EC70
20:20 22:58
EC279 07:32 14:17
BUDAPEST
EC170
09:50 16:25+
EC171 11:35+ 18:17
BUDAPEST
R460
12:00 20:30
EC175 15:35+ 22:17
BUDAPEST
EC278
13:50 20:30
R375
23:02 07:39
BUDAPEST
R336
17:00 03:29
R377
23:28+ 09:58
BUDAPEST
R733
20:01 06:05
R202
04:17 06:47
DRESDEN
EN353
05:59 08:55
EC178 06:16 08:47
DRESDEN
EN353
06:08 08:55
EC176 08:16 10:47
DRESDEN
R60379
07:08 09:49
EC370 10:34+ 12:47
DRESDEN
EC171
08:46 11:21+
EC174 12:34+ 14:47
DRESDEN
EC171
09:09 11:21+
EC172 14:34+ 16:47
DRESDEN
EC173
11:09 13:21+
EC170
16:34+ 18:47
DRESDEN
EC175
13:09 15:21+
R60378 18:46 21:26
DRESDEN
EC177
14:46 17:21+
EN352 20:06 22:51
DRESDEN
EC177
15:09 17:21+
EN352 20:06 06:17
FRANKFURT
EN353
23:38 08:55
EX101 06:07 17:32
LJUBLJANA
EX100
10:18 21:40
EC109 14:07 21:06
KRAKOW
EC108
07:10 13:54
R201
20:55 05:47
KRAKOW
R52
15:28 07:05
R201
21:06 05:47
KRAKOW LIBEŇ R52
22:24 07:05
R454
09:16 15:16
MUNICH
R451
6:43 12:45
R450
17:16 23:26
MUNICH
R455
16:44 22:45
EN362 20:06 06:21
MUNICH
EN363
22:07 08:55
R454
09:16 14:06
NÜRNBERG
EN363
00:30 08:55
R452
13:16 18:10
NÜRNBERG
R453
11:40 16:45
EN362 20:06 03:51
NÜRNBERG
SP457
17:40 22:45
R377
01:01 06:03
VIENNA
EC370
06:08 10:25+
EC71
05:01 09:28
VIENNA
EC172
10:08 14:25+
SC73
08:26+ 12:28
VIENNA
SC72
13:33 17:30+
SC75
10:26+ 14:28
VIENNA
SC74
15:33 19:30+
EC173 13:35+ 18:03
VIENNA
EC70
18:33 22:58
EC177 17:35+ 22:03
VIENNA
R202
22:33 03:29
R201
20:55 06:03
VIENNA
R202
22:33 07:05
R377
23:28+ 06:03
VIENNA
EC107 10:07 18:35
WARSAW
EC106
07:10 15:54
R201
20:55 06:40
WARSAW
R203
21:35 07:05
R201
21:06 06:40
WARSAW LIBEŇ
All trains to/from Hlavni nádraží station, except: + Holešovice n. * Smíchovská
nádraží. ** All trains from Prague to Bratislava stop in Brno after approx 3 hours.
Schedule supplied by České dráhy. More information: tel. 224 22 42 00, www.
vlak.cz.
April - May 2007
83
84
GETTING AROUND
Hitchiking
Town to Town H-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 9, tel. 222 07
54 07, fax 224 21 63 74, www.spolujizda.cz. The cheapest way to travel around. The Town to Town agency brings
drivers and passengers together. Go to the website, add
your ride request (or offer) or just call to check the available
destinations, dates and fixed prices, and hit the road. They
speak Czech, English and German. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Parking
Non stop parking I-7, Praha 2, Boženy Němcové, tel.
603 96 34 40. From 60 Kč/day. Q Open 24hrs/day. Also
at Praha 5, Lýskova, tel. 605 87 26 76.
Travel agencies
Čedok F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. 800 11 21 12,
www.cedok.cz. Bus and train tickets available with only a
scowl rather than the growl that is offered at the station.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
AVE Travel J-4, Praha 5, Pod Barvířkou 6/747, tel. 251
09 11 11, www.avetravel.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
GETTING AROUND
Condor H-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 45, tel. 225 00 02 25,
www.condor.cz. Airline tickets. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 271 09
08 31, fax 271 75 02 74, www.euroagentur.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Fischer E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická 13, tel. 800 12 10
10, www.fischer.cz. One of the largest operators in the
Czech Republic. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
GTS International I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 33, tel.
222 11 97 00, www.gtsint.cz. Flight and bus tickets, with
special deals for students and under-24s. QOpen 08:00
- 18:00, Sat 9:00 - -4:00. Closed Sun.
Mary’s Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italská
31, tel. 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz. Mary’s staff can
book accommodation and tours in seven languages. Specialised in the Czech republic and Hungary. QOpen 08:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Prague Top Tour Praha 8, Pobřežní 21, tel. 222 31
30 35, info@praguetoptour.cz, www.praguetoptour.cz.
Nonstop number: 731 48 66 69. Q A
Rainbow Travel Lidická 569, Roztoky u Prahy, tel.
220 91 08 55, www.rainbowtravel.cz. For the lowdown
on what’s what in Prague, especially Gay Prague, and the
Czech Republic as a whole, contact Karel Ryšán. Gay-owned,
gay-run and straight-friendly.
TBS I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 13, tel. 222 51 23 05, www.
tbs.cz. Specialised in business and congress travel. QOpen
08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Wolf Travel International K-6, Praha 10, Dykova 31,
tel. 222 51 24 25, fax 222 52 24 14, www.wolff-travel.
com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
bmibaby, www.bmibaby.com. UK based airline with direct
low cost flights to the UK.
British Airways F-3, Praha 6, Ruzyně Airport (Terminal
North), tel. 239 00 02 99, fax 239 00 02 88, www.britishairways.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Czech Airlines (ČSA) I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 5, tel. 239
00 70 07, fax 224 31 42 73, www.czech-airlines.com.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. Airport office tel. 220
11 11 11, open 24hrs.
Delta Airlines GSA D-4, Praha 1, Národní 32, tel. 224
94 67 33, fax 224 94 67 31, www.delta-air.cz. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EasyJet, tel. 0044 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com.
Direct low cost flights to Basel, Dortmund, Bristol, London
Gatwick & Stanstead, Newcastle and Nottingham.
El Al I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 33, tel. 224 22 66
24, fax 224 22 66 23, www.elal.tnet.cz. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Finnair J-5, Praha 2, Španělská 2, tel. 222 25 39 24, fax 222
25 40 99, www.finnair.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. 220 11 38 40, open 06:00 - 19:00.
flyglobespan, www.flyglobespan.com. Low cost airline
with bases in England and Ireland and flights across Europe,
Canada, the US and South Africa.
Germanwings, tel. 800 14 22 87, www.germanwings.
com. Direct budget flights from Prague to Cologne-Bonn and
Stuttgart. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
KLM F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 21, tel. 233 09 09 33, fax
224 21 69 06, www.klm.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30. Airport
office tel. 220 11 41 48, open 09:00 - 17:00.
LOT (Polish Airlines) I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 14, tel.
222 31 75 24, fax 222 32 68 17, www.lot.com. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lufthansa Praha 6, Aviatická 1048 - Ruzyně Airport,
tel. 234 00 82 34, fax 234 00 82 95, www.lufthansa.
cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Malév (Hungarian Airlines) F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě
15, tel. 224 22 44 72, fax 224 22 44 73, www.malev.
hu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office
tel. 220 11 44 87, open 08:00 - 17:00.
SAS (Scandinavian Airlines) Praha 6, Aviatická 12
- Airport Business Centrum, tel. 220 11 60 31, fax 220
11 53 06, www.scandinavian.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
SkyEurope Praha 6, K letišti 1017, tel. 246 09
60 96, w w w.skyeurope.com. Destinations (some
seasonal) from Prague to Paris, Nice, Amsterdam, Rome,
Naples, Milan, Barcelona, plus many in and out of Slovakia
& Poland. New winter flights from Prague to Grenoble &
Turin. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00.
Smart Wings Praha 6, K letišti 1068/30, tel. 900
16 65 65, www.smartwings.net. Not so low cost flights
to 19 European cities in Holland, Belgium, Denmark, Spain,
Italy, France, Hungary, Greece, Cyprus and Bulgaria. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Swiss International Air Lines H-5, Praha 1, Lazarská
8/13, tel. 221 99 04 44, fax 221 99 04 45, www.swiss.
com. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office
tel. 220 11 38 40, open 06:00 - 19:00.
Airport
Praha Ruzyně Airport, tel. 220 11 33 14, fax 235 35
09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague’s airport is 20km from the city
centre. Prague’s new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least
4 million more passengers a year to travel into Prague with
the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants,
shops and services ply their trade in this terminal which accommodates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria,
Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy,
Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Greece,
Spain & Sweden).There is a left luggage facilty at the airport
which doesn’t close and costs 60Kč per item per day.
Airline offices
Aeroflot E-2, Praha 1, Truhlářská 5, tel. 227 02 00
20, fax 224 81 26 83, www.aeroflot.ru. QOpen 08:30
AeroSvit D-3, Praha 1, Husova 5, tel. 224 24 88 28,
fax 224 24 85 14, www.aerosvit.com. QOpen 09:00
Air Europa F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 21, tel. 224 80 83 86,
fax 224 80 83 88, www.aireuropa.com. Spanish based
airline offering deals.
Air France I-5, Praha 1, Jungmannova 34, tel. 233 09
09 33, fax 233 09 09 03, www.airfrance.com. QOpen
08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 37
37, open 06:15 - 21:00.
Alitalia E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 11, tel. 222 09 09
19, fax 221 43 46 30, www.alitalia.cz. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office, tel. 220 11 45 04,
open 06:30 - 18:30.
Austrian Airlines F-2, Praha 6, Aviatická 12 - Ruzyně
Airport, tel. 227 23 12 31, fax 224 28 10 43, www.
austrianairlines.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
April - May 2007
85
86
MAIL & PHONES
GETTING AROUND
Flight schedule
From Prague
To Prague
Days
Dep. Arr.
Destination
Days
Dep. Arr.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:40
AMSTERDAM (KLM)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:05 08:40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:15
AMSTERDAM (KLM)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:05 18:40
AMSTERDAM (KLM)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:25 20:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:20 09:00
AMSTERDAM (SkyEurope)
12345609:30 11:00
------7
13:55 15:35
AMSTERDAM (SkyEurope)
------7
16:05 17:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 15:00
ATHENS (CSA)
12-45605:05 06:45
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 23:05 02:40
ATHENS (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:55 17:35
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:30 13:00
BARCELONA (CSA)
12345607:00 10:45
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:10 22:55
BARCELONA (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:50 16:25
1 - 3 - 5 6 - 11:50 14:20
BARCELONA (SkyEurope)
1-3-5615:00 17:35
- - 3 - 5 6 7 21:45 02:15
BEIRUT (CSA)
1--4-67
03:10 06:05
- 2 - 4 - 6 7 11:05 12:35
BELGRADE (JAT)
-2-4-67
08:40 10:15
1-3-5-12:20 13:50
BELGRADE (JAT)
1-3-5-14:35 16:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:25 08:20
BERLIN (CSA)
12345608:55 09:55
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:40 18:40
BERLIN (CSA)
12345-7
19:10 20:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 12:45
BRISTOL (easyJet)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:50 11:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:05 11:10
BUDAPEST (Malev)
12345610:40 11:50
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:05 18:05
BUDAPEST (Malev)
----5617:25 18:30
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 11:40 14:35
BUCHAREST (CSA)
12345606:50 07:45
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:10 22:05
BUCHAREST (CSA)
12345-7
15:15 16:10
--3-5-7
21:25 02:10
CAIRO (CSA)
1--4-603:05 06:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:20 08:45
COPENHAGEN (CSA)
12345609:30 10:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:25
COPENHAGEN (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 20:30
1-3--618:55 03:35
DUBAI (CSA)
-2-4--7
04:35 08:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:15 11:55
DUBLIN (CSA)
12345607:15 10:45
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:15 20:55
DUBLIN (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:40 16:10
1 - 3 4 5 - 7 16:45 20:20
ISTANBUL (Turkish Airlines)
-234567
07:25 09:10
1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:15 22:45
ISTANBUL (Turkish Airlines)
1-345-7
14:05 15:45
1-3-5-09:00 12:05
KYIV (Aerosvit)
1-3-5-06:55 08:05
1 - 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 14:25
KYIV (Aerosvit)
------7
12:25 13:40
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 12:15 13:45
LJUBLJANA (CSA)
12345606:40 08:10
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 21:10 22:40
LJUBLJANA (CSA)
12345-7
14:35 16:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 13:45
LONDON-Heathrow (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:35 10:30
LONDON-Heathrow (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40 17:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:45 20:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:15 08:10
LONDON-STN (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:55 11:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 17:55
LONDON-STN (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:45 21:40
1 2 3 4 5 - - 15:20 16:25
LONDON-GATWICK (easyJet)
12345-11:55 14:55
1 2 3 4 5 - - 21:55 22:55
12345-18:30 21:30
-----611:40 12:45
-----608:10 11:10
-----621:30 22:35
-----618:05 21:05
------7
11:50 12:55
------7
08:20 11:20
------7
21:40 22:45
------7
18:15 21:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:45 14:00
MANCHESTER (CSA)
12345607:30 10:40
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 20:45 21:55
MANCHESTER (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:45 17:55
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:15 19:30
MILAN (SkyEurope)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:00 21:55
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 15:00
MONTREAL (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:50 06:30
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:50 15:15
MONTREAL (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 20:20 09:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:10 13:50
MOSCOW (Aeroflot)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 10:00
------7
08:10 10:10
NAPLES (SkyEurope)
------7
10:50 13:00
---4--12:15 14:15
NAPLES (SkyEurope)
---4--14:55 17:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:35 15:50
NEW YORK-EWR (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 07:55
-2-4--7
07:10 08:55
NICE (SkyEurope)
-2-4--7
09:25 11:10
1 - 3 - 5 6 - 07:00 08:50
PARIS (SkyEurope)
1-3-5609:30 11:15
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 17:35 19:25
PARIS (SkyEurope)
12345-7
20:05 21:50
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:45 14:35
RIGA (CSA)
1234-67
07:00 07:55
1 2 3 - 5 6 7 19:05 21:55
RIGA (CSA)
12345-7
15:15 16:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:30 15:55
ST. PETERSBURG (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 67
16:40 17:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 15:00
STOCKHOLM-Arlanda (CSA)
12-45-08:25 10:25
1 - 3 4 - - 7 19:05 21:05
STOCKHOLM-Arlanda (CSA)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:45 17:45
1 - - 4 - 6 - 12:35 17:00
TORONTO (CSA)
1--45-7
17:30 07:40
1--45-7
12:50 16:00
TORONTO (CSA)
1--4-618:25 09:50
1 2 3 4 5 - 7 11:50 14:40
VILNIUS (CSA)
12-4567
07:00 07:45
1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:05 21:45
VILNIUS (CSA)
12345-7
15:20 16:05
Contact the airlines for full details. Be aware that life is inevitably a series of rapidly changing circumstances; therefore,
we at Prague In Your Pocket decline any responsibility for changes to flight times.
Post
Postage stamps, phone cards and transport tickets can
also be purchased at Tabáks (news stands). Stamps for
post cards & letters (up to 20g) for Czech Rep, EU & US
cost 7.50Kč, 10Kč, 12Kč respectively.
Main Post Office F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 14, tel.
800 10 44 10, www.cpost.cz. Take a numbered ticket
(if you just need to mail something, it’s N°1 you want) for
the services you require and don’t miss your turn. QOpen
02:00 - 24:00. Also at A-4, Praha 5, Újezd 15, tel. 257 32
27 92, open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun; D-2, Praha 1,
Kaprova 12, tel. 224 81 15 87, open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun & J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 15, tel. 224 21 97 14,
open 13:00 - 24:00.
Express mail
Česky Kurýr Interkurýr J-4, Praha 8, Libeňská
183/29, tel. 261 21 60 00, www.ceskykuryr.cz. Courier
service of the railway company. Q Open 24hrs.
DHL Praha 6, Aviatická 1048/12, tel. 800 10 30 00/220
30 01 11, fax 221 51 24 24, www.dhl.cz. QOpen 07:00 18:45. Closed Sat, Sun. Also at F-4 Express Centre, Praha 1,
Václavské nám. 47, open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00
& Praha 1, Klimentská 46, open 09:00 - 18:00.
FedEx Praha 4, Olbrachtova 1, tel. 800 13 33 39/244
00 22 00, fax 241 44 00 24, fedexpraha@fedex.cz,
www.fedex.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun.
TNT Express Worldwide Praha 5, Na Radosti 413
(Zličín Business Centre), tel. 257 08 33 33/257 08 38
88, fax 257 08 33 09, customer.service.prg@tnt.com,
www.tnt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
UPS Praha 6, K letišti 57/1049, tel. 800 18 11 11, fax
233 00 33 03, callcentre@europe.ups.com, www.ups.
com. QOpen 07:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Telephone
All fixed-line telephone numbers in Prague begin with a 2,
and have nine digits. The numbers you will find is this guide
can be dialled from abroad simply by placing the Czech
country code (+420) in front of them. Czech mobile numbers begin with a 6 or a 7, which must always be dialled.
When dialling abroad from the Czech Republic, you need
to dial 00, then the country code, the city code and then
the subscriber’s number.
You can phone abroad directly from any phone box, though
you will need a phone card. There are various types on
sale, all available at newsstands and cigarette kiosks.
O2 Karta X plus, tel. 800 19 01 61, www.cz.o2.
com. The pre-paid cards can be bought in most kiosks in
300, 500, 750 and 1,000Kč denominations. To call, call
the system access number, e.g. 822 11 22 44 followed
by the 14-digit card number then dial the number of your
subscriber.
O2 NetCall *55 Praha 4, Vyskočilova 1442/1b, tel.
800 12 34 56, www.cz.o2.com. Save up to 60% on calls
to the USA and around the world via the internet from your
O2 telephone. Simply dial *55 instead of the 00 international
access code.
Smartcall J-6, Praha 2, Boženy Němcové 5, tel. 296 18
18 18/800 31 73 17, fax 296 18 77 80, info@advantel.
cz, www.smartcall.cz. Pre-paid phone card worth 300 and
500Kč. Calling during off-peak hours is slightly cheaper for
certain countries. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
T-Mobile I-Call, tel. 603 60 36 03, www.t-mobile.
cz. The T-Mobile I-Call service provides you with the most
advantageous minute rates 24 hours a day for calls from the
Czech Republic to selected countries around the world through
data networks. The T-Mobile I-Call service is available for all
T-Mobile mobile telephones.
Telecard, tel. 822 44 44 45, www.telecard.cz. Up to
70% discount on calling internationally. Buy your Telecard
(150 or 300Kč), scratch the silver panel to reveal your PIN
code, dial 822 44 44 45, then your PIN then the subscriber
number you wish to call. Billing is by the second and mobile
phones can also be called. To make a call from outside the
Czech Republic, dial the toll free number, then 4848, then the
PIN followed by the subscriber number.
Mobile phones
There are three main service providers, all offering basically the same billing or pre-paid services and price. Vodafone remains the cheapest, but it also has less coverage
around the country. If you are here for a short time, pick up
the combination SIM and pre-paid card for your phone.
T-Mobile F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 23, info@t-mobile.
cz, www.t-mobile.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Telefónica O2 I-5, Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 813/57,
tel. 224 22 17 42, www.cz.o2.com. Eurotel has a new
name and a massive advertising campaign. QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Vodafone I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 47, tel. 800
77 77 77, www.vodafone.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Internet cafés
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 16, MMalostranská, tel. 257 31 06 94, www.bohemiabagel.cz. Dozens
of terminals and you can also call abroad using its special
system which is dirt cheap, although its high speed access is
not. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Also on E-2, Masná 2. G
Cyber Laundromat J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 14, MNám.
Míru, tel. 222 51 01 80, An internet café and laudromat in
one. The connection may be expensive (30 Kč/15mins) but
at least you come out with clean clothes. QOpen 08:00 20:00. Washers and dryers - 65Kč each.
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl, tel.
224 22 88 62. A café with internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase), and Wi-Fi all over. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. AW
NoD F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224
82 63 30, www.roxy.cz/nod. An art gallery, music, film and
four terminals of free internet. QOpen 10:00 - 01:0.
Internet service providers
Czech On Line I-3, Praha 3, U nákladového nádraží 8,
tel. 800 88 08 00, info@col.cz, www.col.cz. QOpen
08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Globe Praha 6, Pláničkova 1, tel. 603 14 56 23/235 36
50 00, fax 235 36 50 09, info@globe.cz, www.globe.cz.
QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GTS Novera Praha 4, Hvězdova 33, tel. 800 31 31
31/296 15 71 11, fax 296 15 73 33, info@gtsgroup.cz,
www.gts.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
UPC Praha 3, U nákladového nádraží 6, tel. 241 00 51
00, fax 241 00 51 05, www.upc.cz. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
The Prague
telephone code is +420
April - May 2007
87
88
SHOPPING
Crystal, unique art and beautifully made wooden toys and
objets are the true Prague souvenirs, but the tacky T-shirt
trade is one of the most lucrative. The totally cheesy
Czech Me Out T-shirts and communist slogans tend to
hide a few quality items, such as Mucha, Kafka and others. Competition, even on Charles Bridge, means prices
are fairly even, but the more tourist areas tend to have
higher prices.
Books
Academia F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 34, tel. 224
22 35 11, www.academia.cz. Educational texts, language
books, maps and guides, with a café upstairs in the professional department. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 20:00. Also at D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 7, tel. 224 24 05
47; Praha 1, Na Florenci 3, tel. 224 81 46 21. A
Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. 224 89 57 37, www.
anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all the stock at
this excellent bookshop, and he will order any book you need.
It also has second-hand books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18.
Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. 224 82
65 65, fax 224 82 65 59, www.bigbenbookshop.com.
English-language books only are sold here, with standard
guides on Prague, plus several shelves of bestsellers, childrens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel books. QOpen
09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A
Fra J-6, Praha 2, Šafříkova 15, MNám. Míru, tel. 222 52
08 51, www.fra.cz. New café and bookshop with a small
selection of English-language second hand books, bilingual
CZ-EN novels and a wide selection of excellently priced Moleskines. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. 224 93 42 03,
www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand
books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A
Kanzelsberger E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 4, tel.
224 21 92 14, www.kanzelsberger.cz. Bookworm heaven:
four floors of fiction and non-fiction. Helpful staff. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. A
Kiwi H-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 23, tel. 224 94 84
55, www.kiwick.cz. Good collection of maps and foreignlanguage travel guides (all titles are online too); beware that
some books are not the latest edition. If you get inspired,
there’s an in-house travel agent.
Palác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, tel.
221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop with a good
selection of foreign-language books. The 28. Října 7 shop has
a good collection of translations from Czech upstairs. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also
at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Celetná 34. A
Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám.
Míru, tel. 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands
of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry
and prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess
and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also
at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94.
Open 11:00 - 21:00.
Department stores
Bílá Labuť J-3, Praha 1, Na poříčí 23, tel. 224 81 13 64,
www.bilalabut.cz. An ode to the past, historians and lovers
of kitsch are highly recommended to spend an afternoon here
getting lost in the loot. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Dětský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 15, tel. 272 14
24 01. Megastore offering a bit of everything for children.
QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
SHOPPING
Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. 221
01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English department
store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A
Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. 224 80 11
11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops and
services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest
building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL
Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel.
222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain’s best store
with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service
is also available, check the website for details. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Supermarket open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. A
Tesco II Praha 5, Radlická 1, tel. 257 28 41 11, www.
itesco.cz. Fantastic hypermarket (that was Carrefour) with
wide aisles, helpful staff and a full range of goods unavailable
anywhere else in the city. Well worth a trip. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00. Also in the Stodůlky Shopping Centre. A
Fashion
Diesel D-4, Praha 1, Národní 17, tel. 224 22 24 44.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
H & M I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 19, tel. 234 65 60
51, www.hm.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Also at Praha 5,
Plzeňská 8 (Nový Smíchov Shopping centre). A
Levi’s I-5, Praha 1, Školská 38, tel. 222 23 06 81. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
Marks & Spencer I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36,
tel. 224 23 75 03, www.marksandspencer.com. One of
the outposts of the British Empire, with a small but refined
food department. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:30 - 19:00. A
New Yorker E-4, Praha 1, Na Můstku 9, www.newyorker.cz. The German retail giant opens its largest store in
Europe right here. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
The North Face E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannova 30,
MMůstek, tel. 224 94 68 93, www.thenorthface.com.
Clothing and gear for the upwardly mobile mountaineer. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Vintage E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 18, MMůstek. Very
cool spot for picking those vintage and retro new and used
clothes, bags and other accessories. Cheap it isn’t, hip it is.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Retro,
E-4, Praha 1, Perlová 4. A
Zara F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 15, tel. 224 23 98 61,
www.zara.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Flowers
Annie’s Tulip E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 8, MStaroměstská,
tel. 222 31 10 13, www.anniestulip.cz. Beautiful and
exotic flower arranger for hotels, restaurants, embassies,
weddings and you too. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Bohemia Flowers I-4, Praha 1, Opletalova 22, tel.
224 21 30 33, www.flowers.cz. Global delivery to make
someone very happy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Květiny Winkler I-3, Praha 1, Na poříčí 6, MNĂˇm. Republiky, tel. 224 23 81 41/800 11 77 55, www.ekytky.
cz. Flower delivery for Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A
Mário Wild Flowers J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 23,
MMuzeum, tel. 222 25 03 10, www.wildflowers.cz.
More than a florist, Mario Wild designs interiors for hotels and
restaurants around Prague. His gallery contains accessories
and fabulous organic features, a.k.a. cool plants in unique
settings. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Gifts
Botanicus E-3, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 3, tel. 224 89 54
46, www.botanicus.cz. Smelly things, mostly made of wood
that nobody needs but everybody wants. QOpen 10:00
- 18:30. Also at E-3, Praha 1, Michalská 2, tel. 224 21 29 77.
Open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-16:00. Closed Sun. A
Czech Tradition E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 17, tel.
221 63 24 80, www.czech-tradition.com. Traditional
Czech gifts in shops all around the main tourist areas. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00. Also at D-3, Praha 1, Řetězová 10, tel. 221 63
24 80, open 09:00 - 18:00. A
Glass
Artel Praha 3, Vinohradská 164, tel. 271 73 21 61,
www.artelglass.com. Mouth-blown and hand-etched glassware designed by Karen Feldman. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, tel. 224 81 40 99,
www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris Šípek, the leading Czech
architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai restaurant,
Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. A
Cristallino F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 12, tel. 224 22 51
73, www.cristallino.cz. Prague’s largest assortment of
Bohemia crystal, glass, porcelan and jewellery in a range of
designs from classic patterns to modern glassware from top
Czech designers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A
Moser F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, tel. 224 21 12 93,
www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech glass
manufacturer and it’s been in operation since 1857. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3, Praha
1, Malé nám. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Regena D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 44, tel. 224 22 05 60,
www.regena.cz. Lots of things for clumsy people to break
- crystal glass, porcelain, jewellery, chandeliers and glasswork.
Shipping service available. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Shopping centres
Černá růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel.
221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right shops and
some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Centrum Černý Most Praha 9, Chlumecká 6, MČerný
Most, tel. 281 91 81 00, www.centrumcernymost.cz.
Bata, Citizen centrum, DM Drogerie markt, Eiffel Optic, Jasmin, Kenvelo, McDonald’s, Mustang, Ethno and many more.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. A
Letňany Praha 9, Veselská 663, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 284 05 11 11, www.obchodnicentrumletnany.cz.
One of Prague’s biggest and best, with local and international
brand names for retail, food and entertainment. Q Shopping
Centre 09:00 - 21:00, hypermarket 24hrs.
Metropole Zličín Praha 5, Řevnická 1, MZličín, tel. 257
11 15 11, www.metropole.cz. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Myslbek F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 21, MNám. Republiky, tel. 224 23 95 50, www.myslbek.com. QOpen
08:00 - 20:30.
Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. 257
28 41 11, info@novysmichovoc.cz. Home to Carrefour and
more. The games arcade is fabulous and Palace Cinemas are
on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. 255
74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and very chic shopping
centre, with over 120 shops, as well as restaurants, cafés,
a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. All in the centre of
Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Shopping Park Praha Praha 5, Skandinávská 1 - 27,
MZličín. IKEA, Tesco, GigaSport, DatArt megastore, La Halle, Kenvelo, Computer City, Bata, Grand Optical, McDonald’s,
Segafredo Espresso. Pick up the shoppping centre’s bus from
outside Zličin metro station. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám.
Republiky, tel. 221 45 14 00, www.slovanskydum.cz.
High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping centre.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Vinohradský Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50,
MNám. Míru, tel. 222 09 71 11, www.pavilon.cz. After
a lengthy refurbishment, nothing seems to have changed
inside this old market building. There’s an Albert supermarket,
excellent UNICEF shop, dry cleaning, key cutting, café with
bagels, and a few vacant stores. QOpen 09:30 - 21:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. A
Speciality shops
Šatna D-4, Praha 1, Konviktská 13, MMůstek. Meaning cloakroom in English, this retro second hand store has
some gems on their rails - Levi’s, clubbing outfits to knock
‘em dead and more. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Kratochvílovci E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 15, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 31 25 16, www.kratochvilovci.cz. Hankering
for some Maker’s Mark, Grey Goose or Pimm’s No. 1? How
about just about every whiskey from Scotland and Ireland,
throw in Cachaca, Pisco and cigars and you got this new, very
fine outlet. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Modernista D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské náměstí 169/5a,
MNárodní třída, tel. 602 30 56 33, www.modernista.cz.
For the retro furniture hunters out there. Beautiful but expensive collection of modernist, cubist and avant-garde furniture,
objets and lighting. Open by appointment also. QOpen 14:00
- 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 24, MNám. Republiky,
tel. 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent selection of
design products that you may not need, but which look fantastic. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 3, MNám. Republiky, tel.
222 31 31 51, www.qubus.com. Fabulous design shop off
Dlouhá selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to ceramic Wellington boots. They are also the Czech distributor of funky-ass
Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Terryho Ponožky I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek,
tel. 224 94 68 29, www.terryhoponozky.cz. Inside the
Kino Světozor box office lobby is this cool shop for all things
movie-manic: souvenir-tastic Czech language film posters,
cool T-shirts, DVDs and books. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun.
April - May 2007
89
90
BUSINESS DIRECTORY
BUSINESS DIRECTORY
South Africa K-6, Praha 10, Ruská 65, tel. 267 31
Chambers of commerce
Foreign representations
11 14.
American Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1,
Argentina F-4, Praha 1, Panská 895/6, tel. 224 21
South Korea G-1, Praha 6, Slavíčkova 5, tel. 234
Clean Touch E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20, tel. 224 81
Dušní 10, tel. 222 32 94 30.
24 48.
09 04 11.
Spain Praha 7, Bádeniho 4, tel. 224 31 12 22.
Sweden Praha 1, Úvoz 13, tel. 220 31 32 00.
Switzerland Praha 6, Pevnostní 7, tel. 220 40 06
11.
Thailand G-1, Praha 6, Romaina Rollanda 3, tel. 220
57 14 39.
Tunisia Praha 4, Nad kostelem 8, tel. 244 46 06 52.
Turkey Praha 6, Pevnostní 3, tel. 224 31 14 02.
Ukraine Praha 6, Charlese de Gaulla 29, tel. 233 34
20 00.
United Kingdom A-2, Praha 1, Thunovská 14, tel.
257 40 21 11.
Uruguay G-5, Praha 6, Muchova 9, tel. 224 31 47
55.
USA A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 15, tel. 257 53 06 63.
Yemen Praha 6, Pod hradbami 5, tel. 233 33 15 98.
42 99.
British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8,
Australia I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 10, tel. 251 01
Pobřežní 3, tel. 224 83 51 61.
83 50.
Czech - Belgian - Luxenbourg Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha 2, Anglická 20, tel. 261 35 20 90.
Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3,
Austria Praha 5, Victora Huga 10, tel. 257 09 05 11.
Belarus Praha 7, Sádky 626, tel. 233 54 08 99.
Belgium C-1, Praha 6, Valdštejnská 6, tel. 257 53
Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. 225 00 03 45.
Czech - German Chamber of Commerce H-5, Praha
1, Václavské nám. 40, tel. 224 22 12 00.
Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4,
Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. 296 64 61 11.
French - Czech Chamber of Commerce E-3, Praha
8, Pobřežní 3, tel. 224 83 30 90.
Netherlands Chamber of Commerce J-5, Praha 5,
Nádražní 25, tel. 224 22 23 36.
Swedish Chamber of Commerce I-5, Praha 1,
Štěpánská 57, tel. 222 24 20 00.
Swiss - Czech Chamber of Commerce J-6, Praha
3, Husitská 90, tel. 222 52 11 25.
35 24.
Cultural institutes
British Council F-4, Praha 1, Bredovský dvůr, tel.
222 99 11 11.
Cervantes Institute I-5, Praha 2, Na Rybníčku 6,
tel. 221 59 52 11.
Goethe Institut G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 32,
tel. 221 96 21 11.
Hungarian Cultural Institute E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská
25-27, tel. 224 22 24 24.
Institut Francais I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 35, tel.
221 40 10 11.
Instituto Italiano di Cultura A-2, Praha 1, Šporkova
14, tel. 257 09 06 81.
Scandinavian House I-3, Praha 1, Zlatnicka 10, tel.
251 01 93 69.
Slovak Institute H-4, Praha 1, Jilská 450/16, tel.
224 94 81 35.
Emergency numbers
Ambulance, tel. 155.
City Police, tel. 156.
Fire, tel. 150.
International Emergency, tel. 112.
Police, tel. 158.
Foreign press & Websites
Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická
13, tel. 234 07 13 70.
expats.cz.
Final Word Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00 43
15.
Finance New Europe Praha 7, Dobrovského 10/554,
tel. 233 38 02 69.
Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Opletalova 41, tel. 221 00
43 15.
Prague Daily Monitor.
Provokator.
The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, tel. 222 07
56 00.
The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel.
296 33 44 00.
Think Again Praha 3, Vinohradská 102, tel. 272 73
14 69.
Brazil F-4, Praha 1, Panská 5, tel. 224 32 19 10.
Bulgaria I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 6, tel. 222 21 12
58.
Canada G-2, Praha 6, Muchova 6, tel. 272 10 18 00.
Croatia Praha 6, V Průhledu 9, tel. 233 34 04 79.
Denmark B-3, Praha 1, Maltezské nám. 5, tel. 257
53 16 00.
Egypt G-1, Praha 6, Pelléova 14, tel. 224 31 15 06.
Finland B-3, Praha 1, Hellichova 1, tel. 251 17 72
51.
France B-3, Praha 1, Velkopřevorské nám. 2, tel.
251 17 17 11.
Germany A-2, Praha 1, Vlašská 19, tel. 257 11 31
11.
Greece J-5, Praha 2, Helénská 2/1781, tel. 222 25
09 43.
Hungary G-2, Praha 6, Pod hradbami 17, tel. 233 32
35 84.
Chile G-1, Praha 6, U Vorlíků 4, tel. 224 31 50 64.
China G-1, Praha 6, Pelléova 18, tel. 233 02 88 00.
India C-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 6, tel. 257 53 34
90.
Indonesia Praha 5, Nad Buďánkami 7/II, tel. 257
21 43 88.
Ireland A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 13, tel. 257 53 00
61-4.
Israel G-2, Praha 7, Badeniho 2, tel. 233 09 75 00.
Italy A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 20, tel. 233 08 01 11.
Japan B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 6, tel. 257 53
35 46.
Jordan Praha 4, Branická 416/237, tel. 241 44 04
55.
Kuwait Praha 6, Na Zátorce 26, tel. 220 57 07 81.
Latvia Praha 10, Hradešínská 3, tel. 255 70 08 81.
Lebanon G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 14, tel.
224 93 04 95.
Lithuania Praha 5, Pod Klikovkou 2/1916, tel. 257
21 01 22.
Morocco Praha 6, K Starému Bubenči 4, tel. 233
32 56 56.
Netherlands Praha 6, Gotthardská 6/27, tel. 233
01 52 00.
Norway Praha 5, Hellichova 458/1, tel. 257 32 37
37.
Palestine Praha 7, Na Kazance 634/7, tel. 233 55
24 48.
Philippines C-3, Praha 1, Senovážné nám. 8/992,
tel. 224 21 63 97.
Poland I-4, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 8, tel. 257 53 03
88.
Portugal Praha 5, nám. Kinských 7, tel. 257 31 12
30.
Romania A-2, Praha 1, Nerudova 5, tel. 257 53 42
10.
Russia G-1, Praha 6, Pod Kaštany 1, tel. 233 37 41
00.
Slovakia Praha 6, Pod Hradbami 1, tel. 233 11 30
51.
Slovenia Praha 6, Pod Hradbami 15, tel. 233 08 12
11.
International schools
British International School J-6, Praha 4, K lesu 2,
tel. 226 09 62 00.
Laundry & Dry cleaning
Golden Clean Praha 4, Přímětická 1, tel. 241 73
19 94.
Laundry Kings Praha 6, Dejvická 16, tel. 233 34
37 43.
Laundry Land F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 12 (Pasáž
Černá Růže), tel. 221 01 46 32.
Cyber Laudromat J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 14, tel. 222
51 01 80.
Locksmiths & Key cutting
Key Nonstop I-1, Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 4, tel.
220 87 80 16.
Minit D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26 (Tesco), tel. 222 00
34 73.
Lost credit cards
American Express, tel. 222 21 10 89.
Diners Club, tel. 267 19 74 50.
Eurocard/Mastercard & Visa, tel. 224 24 50 41.
Deutsche Schule Prag Praha 5, Schwarzenberská
1, tel. 235 31 17 25.
English College Praha 9, Sokolovská 320, tel. 283
89 31 13.
English International School Praha 4, Na Okruhu
395, tel. 261 91 23 68.
Global Concepts Praha 6, Nad Želivkou 598, tel.
220 96 15 61.
International School of Prague Praha 6, Nebušická
700, tel. 220 38 42 15.
Lycee Français I-5, Praha 5, Drtinova 7, tel. 257
31 76 11.
Tailors
Adam Steiner I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 24, tel.
224 22 05 94.
Anne - Marie D-4, Praha 5, Vítězná 15, tel. 251 51
02 77.
Atelier Závěrková F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, tel. 224
80 83 66.
Language schools
Agentura Educo I-1, Praha 7, Františka Křížka 1, tel.
220 41 21 41.
Berlitz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 10, tel. 225 95
25 50.
Camelot languages G-4, Praha 3, Domažlická 15,
tel. 222 51 77 47.
Concep Training Praha 5, Radlická 1C, tel. 257 32
73 39.
ITC - International TEFL Certificate D-2, Praha 1,
Kaprova 14, tel. 224 81 47 91.
London School of Modern Languages J-6, Praha
2, Londýnská 8, tel. 222 51 50 18.
Prague Language Centre I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská
24, tel. 222 23 29 32.
Prague Schools Praha 6, Na Sekyrce 1392/2, tel.
233 32 27 42.
SF Servis D-2, Praha 1, nám. J. Palacha 2, tel. 221
61 92 97.
The Bell School Praha 10, Nedvězská 29, tel. 274
81 53 42.
The Caledonian School D-4, Praha 1, Národní 11,
tel. 224 23 77 31.
Radio
BBC World Service (101.1).
Classic (98.7)
Expres Radio (90.3)
Radio 1 (91.9)
Radio Free Europe, (1233,1287 AM)
April - May 2007
91
92
HEALTHCARE & SPORTS
24-hour pharmacies
STREET REGISTER
Extreme sports
Lékárna Modřany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel.
Bobsleigh Praha 9, Prosecká 906/34b, tel. 284 84
244 40 22 70.
05 20.
Lékárna Palackého H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.
224 94 69 82.
K. I. Bungee Jump, tel. 608 768 168.
Parašutistická škola Impact Praha 4, Dolni 12,
Lékárna U Anděla Praha 5, Štefánikova 6, tel. 257
tel. 261 22 54 31.
32 46 86.
Tandem Centrum Praha Praha 6, Na Pěkné vyhlídce
Lékárna U Svaté Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 37,
4, tel. 233 34 34 43.
tel. 224 23 72 07.
Dentists
Horse racing
Karlovarské závodiště Karlovy Vary, kpt. Jaroše 29,
American Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici
tel. 35 356 47 44.
4, tel. 221 18 11 21.
Dental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel.
Pardubice Pardubice, Pražská 607, tel. 466 79 71 11.
Velká Chuchle Praha 5, Radotínská 69, tel. 257 94
224 94 69 81.
14 31.
Dental Surgery and Laboratory Praha 4, U družstev
10/1668, tel. 241 40 39 70.
Esthesia Praha 8, Trojská 28, tel. 284 68 05 30.
European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Václavské
nám. 33, tel. 224 22 89 84.
Paintball
Paintball Club Troja Praha 4, Krejnická 2021, tel.
603 44 95 79.
Prague Indoor Paintball Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel.
Hospitals
Nemocnice Motol Praha 5, V úvalu 84, tel. 224 43
11 11.
Nemocnice na Františku I-2, Praha 1, Na Františku
847, tel. 224 81 05 02.
Nemocnice Na Homolce Praha 5, Roentgenova 2,
tel. 257 27 11 11.
Thomayerova nemocnice Praha 4, Vídeňská 800,
tel. 261 08 11 11.
Medical centres
Asklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 39, tel. 234 71
61 11.
Canadian Medical Care Praha 6, Veleslavínská 1,
777 33 49 39.
Football
The Czech premiere league, the Gambrinus liga features
a few Czech national players, but most of the big names
play, as per usual for football stars, overseas where the
bucks are bigger and the weather warmer. Last season,
Liberec won the league, with Mladá Boleslav in second
place, followed by Slavia Praha. Next season might see
one of the country’s oldest football clubs, FK Viktoria
Žižkov, rejoin the big boys in the Gambrinus liga. Games
are cheap (50 - 250Kč) and tickets can be bought at
the gates, unless it is a particularly important game. For
some information in English, go to www.fotbal.cz.
17. listopadu
28. října
Alšovo nábřeží
Anenská
Anenské nám.
Anežská
Bartolomějská
Benediktská
Besední
Betlémská
Betlémské nám.
Bílkova
Boršov
Břehová
Břetislavova
Celetná
Cihelná
Čechův most
Červená
Divadelní
Dlouhá
Dražického
Dražického nám.
Dušní
Dvořákovo nábř.
E. Krásnohorské
Harantova
Haštalská
Haštalské nám.
Havelská
Havelská ulička
Havířská
Hellichova
Hlavsova
Hradčanské nám
Hradební
Hroznová
Husova
Charvátova
Chotkova
Jáchymova
Jakubská
Jalovcová
Jánský vršek
Jilská
Jindřišská
Jiřská
Josefská
K Haštalu
D-2
E-4
D-2
D-3
D-3
F-1
D-4
F-2
B-4
D-4
D-4
E-2
D-4
D-1
A-2
F-3
C-2
D-1
E-2
C-4
E-2
B-2
B-2
E-1
D-1
E-2
B-3
F-2
F-2
E-3
E-3
E-3
A-3
E-3
A-1
F-2
B-3
D-3
E-4
B-1
E-2
F-3
D-3
A-2
D-3
F-4
B-1
B-2
F-1
Kamzíková
Kaprova
Karlova
Karlův most
Karmelitská
Karolíny Světlé
Klárov
Klášterská
Konviktská
Kosárkovo náb.
Kostečná
Kozí
Kožná
Králodvorská
Krocínova
Křižovnická
Křižovnické nám.
Lázeňská
Letenská
Liliová
Linhartská
Maiselova
Malá Klášterní
Malé nám.
Malostranské náb.
Malostranské nám.
Maltézské nám.
Mánesův most
Mariánské nám.
Martinská
Masná
Melantrichova
Michalská
Mikovcova
Mikulandská
Mikulášská
Míšeňská
Most Legií
Mostecká
Na Františku
Na Kampě
Na Můstku
Na Opyši
Na Perštýně
Na Příkopě
Na Rejdišti
Na Zábradlí
Náb. Ed. Beneše
Nám. Curieových
E-3
D-2
D-3
C-3
B-3
C-4
C-1
F-1
D-4
D-1
E-2
E-1
E-3
F-3
C-4
D-3
D-3
B-2
B-2
D-3
D-3
D-2
F-1
E-3
B-4
B-2
B-3
C-2
D-3
D-4
E-2
E-3
E-3
I-5
D-4
E-3
B-2
C-4
B-2
E-1
B-3
E-4
C-1
D-4
F-3
D-2
C-3
C-1
E-1
Nám. Franze Kafky
Nám. J. Palacha
Nám. U sv. Jiří
Náměstí Republiky
Náprstkova
Národní
Nebovidská
Nekázanka
Nerudova
Nosticova
Novotného lávka
Olivová
Ovocný trh
Panská
Pařížská
Pelclova
Perlová
Plaská
Platnéřská
Pod Bruskou
Politických vězňů
Prašný most
Prokopská
Provaznická
Průchodní
Rámová
Revoluční
Růžová
Rybná
Rytířská
Řásnovka
Řetězová
Říční
Salvátorská
Saská
Seminářská
Senovážná
Skořepka
Smetanovo náb.
Sněmovní
Spálená
Staré zámecké schody
Staroměstské nám.
Stříbrná
Šeříková
Široká
Štefánikův most
Štupartská
Templová
E-3
D-2
A-1
F-2
D-3
D-4
B-3
F-3
A-2
B-3
C-3
F-4
F-3
F-4
E-1
B-3
E-4
B-4
D-2
C-1
F-4
A-1
B-2
E-3
D-4
F-2
F-2
F-4
F-2
E-4
F-1
D-3
B-4
E-2
B-2
D-3
F-3
D-4
C-4
B-2
D-4
B-1
E-3
D-3
B-4
D-2
F-1
F-2
F-3
Thunovská
Tomášská
Tržiště
Týnská
Týnská ulička
U Bruských kasáren
U Dobřenských
U Lanové dráhy
U Lužického sem.
U Milosrdných
U Obecního domu
U Obecního dvora
U Plovárny
U Prašné brány
U Radnice
U Sovových mlýnů
U Staré školy
U Starého hřbitova
U Sv. Ducha
U Zlaté studně
U Železné lávky
Uhelný trh
Újezd
V Cípu
V Kolkovně
V Kotcích
Václavské nám.
Valdštejnská
Valdštejnské nám.
Valentinská
Vejvodova
Veleslavínova
Velkopřevorské nám.
Vězeňská
Vikářská
Vítězná
Vlašská
Voršilská
Všehrdova
Za Haštalem
Zámecká
Zámecké schody
Zlatá
Zlatá ulička
Žatecká
Železná
93
A-2
B-2
A-2
F-2
E-2
C-1
D-4
A-4
C-2
E-1
F-3
E-2
D-1
F-3
E-3
B-3
E-2
D-2
E-2
B-1
C-1
E-4
A-4
F-4
E-2
E-4
F-4
C-1
B-1
D-2
D-3
D-2
B-3
E-2
A-1
B-4
A-2
D-4
B-4
F-2
A-2
A-1
D-3
B-1
D-2
E-3
tel. 235 36 01 33.
Health Centre Prague I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 28,
tel. 224 22 00 40.
International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova
16, tel. 266 77 37 11.
Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. 234
63 01 11.
Pediatric Health Centre Prague Praha 4, Ke Spofě
7, tel. 244 40 31 14.
Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, tel. 222 075
120.
Opticians
Decent Optik Praha 4, Nuselská 41, tel. 241 74
27 19.
Eiffel Optics F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 38, tel. 221 61
33 02.
Grand Optical F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 19/21, tel.
224 23 83 71.
Bowling
Beer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresová 1
(Corinthia Towers Hotel), tel. 261 19 11 51.
Bowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10,
tel. 221 03 30 20.
Bowling Club K-4, Praha 3, Bořivojova 83, tel. 222
72 11 24.
Radava SC Praha 7, Milady Horákové 37, tel. 233
10 12 13.
4 Apr
17:00
Slavia Praha - SIAD Most
14 Apr
17:00
Sparta Praha - Teplice
18 Apr
17:00
Slavia Praha - Viktoria Plzeň
21 Apr
17:00
Sparta Praha - Slavia Praha
29 Apr
17:00
Slavia Praha - Kladno
5 Apr
17:00
Sparta Praha - Slovácko
9 Apr
17:00
Slavia Praha - Mladá Boleslav
12 Apr
17:00
Sparta Praha - Slovan Liberec
20 Apr
17:00
Slavia Praha - Tescoma Zlín
27 Apr
17:00
Sparta Praha - SIAD Most
Strahov Stadium
Toyota Arena
Strahov Stadium
Toyota Arena
Strahov Stadium
Toyota Arena
Strahov Stadium
Toyota Arena
Strahov Stadium
Toyota Arena
AC Sparta Praha (Toyota Arena) H-1, Praha 7,
Milady Horákové 98, tel. 220 57 03 23.
CU Bohemians Praha Praha 10, Vršovická 31,
tel. 271 72 14 59.
FK Viktorka Žižkov Praha 3, Seifertova, tel. 222
71 25 03.
SK Slavia Praha (Strahov Stadium) Praha 6,
Diskařská 100, tel. 257 21 32 90.
April - May 2007
Home of the New York Steak, traditional
Steakhouse Menu with Chops and Seafood.
The best Steaks in Prague
7even | Opening hours
6.30 a.m. - 11.00 p.m.
Renaissance Prague Hotel
www.renaissanceprague.com
98
INDEX
7 Vlků
66
Abaton
61
Accord
30
Adalbert
26
Adria
21
Advantage
30
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum
54
Akat Steakhouse
59
Akropolis
64, 67
Alchymist
60
Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa
20
Allegro
37
Ambassador Casino
55
Ambiente Brasileiro
41
Ambiente Living
62
Ambiente Pasta Fresca
37
Ametyst
21
Amigos
65
Amores Perros
65
Amour Hotel Residence
29
Andel's
21
angelo Hotel
21
Anna
26
Aparthotel Amadeus
26
Apart Karee
29
Apartments in Prague
29
Apartments Oasis CITY
29
Apostolic Residence
22
Appia Residences
29
Apple
31
Approach & Entry
76
Archibald City
26
Arcotel Teatrino
22
Ariana
32
Ariston
26
Ariva Guesthouse
30
Aromi
64
Around Prague Information Centre 77
Arzenal
43
Astoria
22
Atlantic
26
Atmosphere
48
Azteca
60
Baang!
64
Back Doors
70
Bakeshop Diner
32
Banco Casino
55
Banditos
65
Bandol
44, 57
Baráčnická rychta
59
Bar and Books
48
Barbar
61
Barceló Praha
22
Barock
48
Bastille
59
Batalion
56
Beas
44, 65
Bellevue
37
Belvedere
26
Beograd
33
Beránek
26
Best Tour
81
Bethlehem Chapel
79
Big Sister
73
Biskupský dům
22
Blind Eye
66
Blues Sklep
54
Boathouse
31
Bohemia
55
Bohemia Bagel
43, 58
Bohemia Travel Service
81
Bokovka
44
Bombay Cocktail Bar
48
Bordo
67
Brasserie La Provence
35
Brasserie M
35
Brasserie Praha
37
Bredovský dvůr
33
Březina
30
Buffalo Bill's
32
Bugsy's
48, 49
Bumerang
62
Bunkr Parukářka
67
BW Hotel Kampa
22
BW Meteor Plaza
22
Byblos
42
Cabestro
48
Café Café
46
Café Louvre
46
Café Pavlač
62
Café Revive
46
Café Savoy
58
Cafeterapie
46
Café WOW
46
Caffrey's
52
Cantina
60
Carlton
22
Cartouche
42
Casa Marcello
22
Casino de Prague Le Hilton
55
Casino Duplex
55
Casino Monaco
55
Casino Palais Savarin
55
Casino Panorama
55
Casino President
56
Castle Steps
30
Čedok
81
Cellarius
44
Celnice
33
Centrál
26
Century Casino Millennium
56
Černý slon
21, 36
Červená tabulka
36
Charles Bridge
77
Chateau Rouge
49
Chateau St. Havel
23
Cheers
66
Chez Amis
43
Chez Marcel
35
Chilli House
31
Church of Our Lady Victorious
79
Cicala
40
Cigars and Coffee
46
City Information
29
City Pension
26
Cityrama Prague
81
City Walks
78
Clarion
27
Claris
27
Clear Head
44
Clementin
22
Cloister Inn
27
Clown & Bard
31
Club 161
73
Club 600
73
Coffee Fellows
46
Coffeeheaven
46
Coloseum
42
Corinthia Panorama
22
Corinthia Towers
20
Country Life
44
Courtyard Marriott Flora
22
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails
58
Creperie Café
46
Cross Club
68
Crowne Plaza
22
Cubism Museum
78
Cukrkávalimonáda
58
Culinaria
32
Czech Folklore
69
Czech Inn
31
Dahab Yalla
43
Daily Walks
78
Daliborka Tower
76
dANico
40
Darling Cabaret
73
David
60
De Brug
48
Decorative Arts Museum
78
Desire Cabaret
73
Dinitz Café
37
DISK Café
46
Dobrá čajovna
47
Domus Henrici
23
Don Giovanni
40
Don Pedro
41
Downtown Café
58
Duende
49
Ebel
46
El Centro
61
Élite
21
Elysee
27
Emporio Café
46
Endy's
43
Érra
46
Escade
74
Ethno
47
Evropa
27
Extasy Cabaret
74
Extol Inn
27, 31
Face To Face
68
Fat Boy's
49
Ferdinanda
33
First courtyard
76
FKK Prague
74
Flambée
35
Fluidum
65
Follow Me
74
Four Seasons
20
Fraktal
68
Francouzská restaurace
35
Franz Kafka
44
Funicular Railway
81
Futurum
70
Fuzion
47
Gecko
49
George & Dragon
52
Giovanni
40
Gitanes
58
Globe
47
Golden Lane
76
Golden Sickle
31
Grand Café Orient
47
Grand Café Praha
47
Grand Hotel Bohemia
20
Grand Hotel Praha
23
Green Garden
27
Grotta
69
Hanil
64
Hany Bany
61
Hapu
66
Harlequin
66
Harley's
49
Haštal Hotel
28
Haveli
59
Hergetova Cihelna
60
High Synagogue
80
Hilton Prague
20
Himalaya
63
Historical Museum
78
Hlučná samota
63
Hokkaido
41
Hombre del Mundo Mexicano
70
HOT
37
Hotel 16
28
Hotel Anděl
28
Hotel Páv
28
Huang He
63
Ibis Praha Smíchov
Infinity
INOS
InterContinental Praha
Irish Club Pension
Irish Club Prague
J.J.Murphy's
Jágr's Sport Bar
Jalta Praha
Jáma
Jazz Boat
Jet Set
Jewellery Collection
Jewish Museum
Josef
Julián
K.U.Bar.Cafe
K5 Relax Club
Kaaba
Kabul Karolina
Kafíčko
Kafka Museum
Kain
Kamenný most
Kampa Museum
Kampa Park
Káva Káva Káva
Kavalír
Khajuraho
Klausen Synagogue
Klementinum
Klub 007 Strahov
Klub architektů
Kogo
Koliba Praha
Koliba U Pastýřky
Kolkovna
Korea House
Kozička
Kuře v hodinkách
L'Angolo
L'Ardoise
La Boca
La Bodega
La Bodega Flamenca
La Bodeguita del Medio
La Boutique
La Cambusa
La Casa Argentina
La Casa Blů
La Creperie
La Degustation
La Lavande
La Perle de Prague
Lapidarium
La Scene
La Veranda
Le Bistro de Marléne
Le Clan
Le Club
Legends
Le Mirage
Lemon Leaf
Le Saint-Jacques
Les Moules
Letenské sady
Letenský zámeček
Le Terroir
Le Tram
Liberty
Lokalblok
Loreta
Los v Oslu
Lucerna Music Bar
Luník
Lví dvůr
M1
Made In Japan
Magická zahrada
Mailsi
Maisel Synagogue
Maluj Creative Café
Malý Buddha
Man-na
Mandarin Oriental
Manni Mini
Mansson
Maria Prag
Marriott
Martin's Irish Pub
Martin Tour
Matrix
Matrjoska
Maximillian
Mecca
Medúza
Meli-Melo Music Club
Merlin
Metamorphis
Millhouse Sushi-Kaitan
Miniatures Museum
Mirage
Misch Masch
Miss Sophie's
Miyabi
Mlýnec
Modrý zub
Molly Malone's
Monarch
Mövenpick
Mozaika
Mu Café
Mucha
Mucha Museum
28
67
28
20
30
68
61
53
23
52
54
70
78
80
20
28
49
73
62
32
58
78
67
33
78
60
69
28
36
80
81
70
44
40
38
63
33
41
49, 57
64
41
63
32
43
68
42
23
70
32
52
68
39
63
38
78
35
39
68
67
64
53
67
43
36
32
33
68
36
68
23
70
79
64
56
28
59
56
41
64
65
80
62
59
41
20
63
32
24
20
66
81
67
42
24
68
66
67
66
24
41
78
69
68
31
41
60
44
52
44
23
64
66
24
78
Municipal House
77
Museum Pension
30
Mušketýr
30
Nagoya
69
National Memorial
81
National Museum
79
National Theatre
77
Na Verandách
69
Na Zlatém kříži
28
New Jewish Cemetery
80
NoD
47
Noel's Lounge
62
Noodles
39
Nordica
47
Nostitz
60
Nostress
39
Novoměstský pivovar
33
Novotel Praha City
24
O'Che's
53
Ocean Drive
52
Old Jewish Cemetery
80
Old Prague Hostel
31
Old Royal Palace
76
Old Town Square
77
Oliva
39
Olympia
59
Olympos
63
Our Lady of Snow
79
Palace Gardens
76
Palace Praha
20
Pálffy Palác
59
Paris
20
Park Café
33
Parnas
39
Patriot - X
33
Pavelka
44
Pekelnej Bar
70
Pension Atelier Art 12
30
Perfect
39
Perpetuum
34
Petřínské Terasy
38
Petrovič
42
Picante Fresh-Mex
57
Pinkas Synagogue
80
Pivovarský dům
33
Pizza Marzano
42
Pizza Nuova
42
Pizzeria U Tučňáků
69
Planet Sushi
69
Pool Café
69
Popocafepetl
66
Popocafepetl Music Club
70
Posezení U čiriny
43
Potrefená husa
33
Prague's Schindler
80
Prague Info
77
Prague Inn
24
Prague Passenger Shipping
81
Prague Sightseeing Tours
81
Prague Travel
78
Pravda
39
Precious Legacy Tours
81
Premiant City Tour
81
President
21
Punto Azul
70
Radisson SAS Alcron
21
RadostFX
65, 67
Ramada Grand Hotel Symphony 24
Real Tour
78
Red Hot & Blues
32
Reduta
54
Renaissance
21
Retro
64
Retro Music Hall
67
Reykjavík
42
Rezidence Lundborg
24
Rincón
52
Rio's Vyšehrad
38
Roca
64
Rock Café
56
Rocky O'Reilly's
53
Roma
24
Roxy
56
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat
76
Ruský Salón
65
Růžová čajovna
47
Rybanaruby
62
Rybí trh
42
Safir
70
Sahara Café
64
Salvator
28
Sarah Bernhardt
36
Sax
28
Schwarzenberg Palace
76
Second courtyard
76
Seven Angels
34
Seven Days
24
Shabu
47
Shadow Bar
61
Shakespeare & Sons
62
Siam Orchid
44
Sieber
24
Šípek Bistrot
37
Sir Toby's
31
Sixth Sense
56
Slavia
47
SOHO+
39
Sokol
31
Solidní nejistota
57
Sonora
65
Sovovy Mlýny
59
Spanish Synagogue
80
Spearmint Casino
56
Square
60
Ss. Cyril and Methodius Church 79
St. Ignatius Church
79
St. Nicholas Café
61
St. Nicholas Church
79
St. Vitus Cathedral
76
Sternberg Palace
76
St George's Basilica
76
Století
34
Strahov Monastery
79
Střelecký ostrov
39
Studio 54
56
Sushi Bar
69
SushiPoint
41
Suterén
39
Svatá Klára
68
Taj Mahal
63
Tchaikovsky
29
Techtle mechtle
64
TGI Fridays
69
Thai Spice
43
The Beer Factory
53
The Blue Light
61
The Golden Gate Hotel & Suites 21
The Noodle Bar
43
The Pack
54
The Swamp
70
Three Lions
54
Tiger Tiger
65
Tlustá koala
53
Town Hall & Astronomical clock 77
Transport Museum
79
Travellers' Hostel
31
Tretters
52
Trilobit
57
Trinidad
24
Tříska
28
Troja Chateau
79
TV Tower
38, 81
U Bílého lva
34
U Bílé krávy
63
U Brány
25
U Bukanýra
70
U Buldoka
70
U Černého vola
61
U Červeného páva
34
U Císařů
60
U Dvou šálků
47
U Fleků
33
Újezd
61
U Kalicha
63
U Klenotníka
29
U Korbele
34
U Krále Karla
25
U Krbu
65
U Malého Glena
57, 58, 61
U Malířů
59
U Maltézských rytířů
59
U Medvídků
30
U Modré růže
34
Un Chien Andalou
68
Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club
56
Unitas Pension
30
U Patrona
59
U Páva
25
U Pinkasů
33
U Sádlů
42
U Sadu
57, 66
U Sedmi Švábů
60
U Staré paní
56
U Sudu
44
U Tří korunek
29
U Tří Pštrosů
25
U Vodárny
62
U Vystřeleného oka
66
U Zavěšenýho kafe
58
U Závoje
36
U Zlatého jelena
29
U Zlatého tygra
53
U Zlaté hrušky
59
U Zlaté studně
25, 60
U Žluté boty
29
Vagon
56
Veletržní Palace
79
Velotrixi
78
Velryba
47
Venue 73
54
Vertigo
56
Vikárka
59
Viniční Altán
44
Vltava
39
Vyšehrad
77
Vysmátý zajíc
57
V Zátiší
40
Wakata
68
Waldstein
25
Waxwork Museum
79
Wenceslas Square
77
Wigwam
69
Wings Club
64
XT3
67
YAMI
41
Yasmin
25
Yessi Café
47
Zahrada v Opeře
40
Zanzibar
61
Zero
56
Žižkov Jewish Cemetery
80
Zlatá hvězda
26, 54
Zlatá Praha
38
Zlatý strom
56, 57
Žlutá pumpa
66
Zvonařka
66
Zvonice
38
Choose from the typical Czech
specialties varying from traditional
to contemporary authentic country
dishes in the ambiance of the best
Czech restaurant in Prague
U korbele | Opening hours
11.00 a.m. - 1.00 a.m.
Renaissance Prague Hotel
www.renaissanceprague.com

Prague Fringe Festival

Transcription

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