making a lifestyle for all Seasons

TM
International exhibition for fibres,
yarns for clothing and upholstery,
knitwear and knitted fabrics
13 th march 2013
spinexpo TM 21 st edition
daily journal
p.1 > Happening/News
p.2 > Market information
p.2 > interview
p.3 > Products
p.4 > Trends INSPIRATION
A New Generation of Knitters
Poised for Success
Chinese Retailers and
Apparel Brands Rise to Meet
Competition
GTIG Hubo: devoted to creation
and better quality
Alpaca and Mohair: making a Lifestyle for all Seasons
spinexpoTM, a Source of Inspiration
products
Alpaca and Mohair
making a Lifestyle
for All Seasons
> see p.4
Happening/News
PT Jaba Garmindo
will exhibit jointly
with Shima Seiki,
along with several
spinners, in the
July edition of
SPINEXPOTM in
New York.
According to
Mr. Gunawan,
“SPINEXPOTM is vital
to showcase the
design potential
of our way of
working, and show
the benefit to
the customer.”
A New Generation of Knitters
Poised for Success
SPINEXPO’s new Knitwear Pavilion brings together the best and the brightest of Asia’s
new generation of knitwear producers. These young entrepreneurs defy old stereotypes
with the latest equipment, dedication to design, and willingness to engage in an open
exchange with their partner customers.
Brilliant Global Knitwear
Service is the credo of Hong Kong’s Brilliant
Global Knitwear, where a team led by Ty
Bhojwani has created “a brand of service”
with the goal of helping the designer/buyer/
customer to realize their vision. Mr. Bhojwani
joined the company in 2002 with the belief
that “there are ample suppliers in the world.
We need to be a true resource and work to
understand the customer.”
The company’s US sales team spends a lot
of time with its buyers and in their stores, in
order to really understand consumer habits
and tastes. Guided by Senior Design Director
Majda Coza, the company also works with
trend forecasters, then develops a vision and
makes it relevant to Brilliant’s customers,
combining strategic input with collaboration.
“Our goal is to be the significant supplier to a
handful of customers. We are not in the commodity business,” explains Mr. Bhojwani. “We
collaborate with the yarn and fibre companies
to really come up with something beautiful
and inspirational as a starting point—then we
engineer it further for our customers—helping
them adapt the trends to their customers.”
PT Jaba Garmindo
Established in 1983 by Dr. Djoni Gunawan,
PT Jaba Garmindo is the largest automated
knitting factory in Indonesia, with 1000 computerized flat knitting machines in gauges
from 1.5 to 14, and top-of-the-line inkjet prin-
TM
INterview
Market
information
Chinese Retailers
and Apparel
Brands Rise
to Meet
Competition
The Research Centre of apparel manufacturing
and sourcing giant Li & Fung has released a
report on the changing face of China’s Apparel
Market 2012. The report reveals that Chinese
retailers and apparel brands will not be left
behind in the competition for the growing
spending power of the Chinese consumer.
According to China’s National Bureau of Statistics, the total retail sales of clothing, shoes, hats
and textiles for 2011 rose by 24.2% over the
previous year. Sales for the first three quarters of
2012 were up 17.8% year on year.
The annual per capita income of urban households grew by 8.4% in 2011, and that of rural
households rose by 11.4% year over year. But
rising costs of raw materials, labour, and rental
are posing increasing challenges to the country’s
apparel businesses.
Li & Fung reports that inventories are high, and
competition for market share is fierce. Sales
volume growth in major department stores was
up only 4.4%, declining from 10.2% in 2010.
China’s domestic brands dominate the mass
market, while foreign brands have a strong position with high-end stores in first and secondtier cities. In the face of increasing competition,
foreign luxury brands such as Gucci and Louis
Vuitton, along with sports giants Nike and Adidas, are expanding into lower-tier cities such as
Wuhan, Wuxi, Changsha, Fuzhou, and Xiamen.
Meanwhile, established foreign brands such as
Zara, Uniqlo, H&M, C&A, Gap, and Marks &
Spencer are also looking to penetrate lower-tier
cities with plans to open dozens of new stores.
Domestic retailers such as Youngor, Fuguiniao,
Joeone, and Septwolves are not far behind.
Domestic players such as Metersbonwe,
Joeone, and Romon, are eager to build brand
equity and are investing in brand-building. An increasing number of department store operators
are developing their own private label apparel
and proprietary brands. Online apparel retailing
is also growing at a rapid pace, accounting for
14.3% of China’s total apparel sales in 2011.
Li & Fung reports that Chinese apparel companies are investing more in product development
and spending more on marketing and branding.
This certainly holds true for the exhibitors at
SPINEXPOTM, whose products and marketing
efforts reflect a growing sophistication.
With attention to trends in new and luxurious
materials, styling, and consumer lifestyles,
SPINEXPOTM’s spinners and knitwear manufacturers are growing by successfully targeting domestic and global consumers alike. n
GTIG Hubo: devoted to creation
and better quality
GTIG Hubo used to be a Department of GTIG – each division
challenging the other. GTIG Hubo has decided to take the most
complicated road: the road of creative yarns. How would you
describe the challenge?
Mr TANG
C
reation is the principle behind GTIG HUBO.
We have always been devoted to the creation
of new products with a better quality and to
being the unique yarn supplier with our distinct characteristics setting us apart. This is why I think HUBO
differs from other competitors in this field, most of
whom prefer to get orders with lower prices.
Where are you today in this move towards “better
products, innovation and global sophistication”?
You have recently hired internationally rated consultants to upgrade your product visibility and image.
What made you decide to go in this direction?
All the targets you mention above have been implemented at the same pace, and I could say now we're
quite close to our aim. HUBO will consistently improve
and enhance in order to finally achieve our goals.
We have set our target and plan to upgrade the overall
image of our company and products over quite a long
term. Besides this move, we'll introduce more international talents to join us this year, which will definitely enrich
the whole level of our design and consultancy team and
add vitality and imagination to the whole company.
New York: a difficult market, lots of challenges, but
important in terms of strategy, visibility.... How do you
see your development there? Is SPINEXPO New York
important to you? What more could we do to help?
The New York market represents the US market very
well, which is also one of the most important and
valuable textile markets for HUBO. While maintaining
our current customers by always providing creative
products and improving product quality, we also take
the advantage of our good reputation in this industry
to develop potential customers.
SPINEXPOTM New York is important to us and as a
loyal Exhibitor, we hope SPINEXPOTM will strengthen
the publicity and promotion work for HUBO in all
aspects.
As SPINEXPOTM, we were very pleased to acknowledge your backing up of our Knitwear Pavilion project. You know that – as an exhibition- we are more
dedicated to being useful to the sector than only
collecting exhibitors’ money - so launching this
Pavilion was not a way to add up to a shrinking show
such as the case is in Europe at the moment.
We always had knitwear manufacturers joining the
show and we decided to give them more visibility
because the internal and external markets are going
in this direction. What is your opinion regarding this
new sector? Do you have any suggestions?
This new sector helps SPINEXPOTM better achieve the
overall presentation from raw materials to finished products, i.e. from yarns and fibres to knitted garments,
It reflects the professionalism and foresight of
SPINEXPOTM. This will also attract more visitors and
corporate in this industry.
Since this is the first time HUBO is participating in the
Knitwear Pavilion project, we will pay close attention
and put forward suggestions after this exhibition. n
This new sector
helps SPINEXPOTM
better achieve the overall
presentation from
raw materials to
finished products,
i.e. from yarns and
fibres to knitted
garments,
It reflects the
professionalism and foresight of
SPINEXPOTM.
13 th march 2013 / spinexpo TM 21 st edition
Products
Alpaca & Mohair
Making a Lifestyle
for All Seasons
Soft and Silky, naturally absorbent and therefore cool in the warmer
months, Mohair and Alpaca are ideal for light weight knitwear
or elegant woven fabrics.
Our yarns like « Caprice”, “Noir” and “Platinum” are meant
to be very versatile; thus according to their knitting interpretation, they can be employed and sold all year around.
S
PINEXPOTM has asked Lanificio dell’Olivo, a creative
Italian spinner who uses mohair and alpaca in their
yarns regularly and has become a specialist of the
two fibres to give us their opinion. Below are the comments
of Mrs Ilaria Taddeucci, CEO of the Company:
“Our experience in spinning specialty fibres has led us to
associate an uncommon combination with extraordinary
effects by blending the shiny and smooth fleeces of South
African Kid Goats with the warmer fibres of the Peruvian
Andes Baby Alpacas.
In particular baby Alpaca, thanks to its structure, gives great
advantage to the manufacture of items in term of lightness
– around 10% less in comparison with yarns of the same
count, with thermal insulation being superior by far to any
other kind of fibre as it protects the body from temperature
variation, maintaining body temperature at the same level
in cold and warm climate, this being ideal for all seasons.
PT Jaba Garmindo
Xinnuo
Knitting with our yarns made of these valuable fibres, you
will discover a soft fullness enhanced by smooth superkid
Mohair, while the Baby Alpaca, much finer, mingles among
the yarn creating a softer, bulkier touch; also the colour
story is enriched by the natural beautiful grounds of these
fibres, difficult to be reproduced in dyeing. The “plus" is
appreciated at every step of the production process
because the quality of our products starts with the selection
of the best fleeces that we carry out very carefully; in fact,
we travel directly to the production areas of most noble
fibres such as Alpaca and Mohair and select and purchase
on site.
We make sure that the local breeders are recognized for
their passionate fine work, and respect our ethical values.
There is something new in the air, something that comes
from far away... using the most sophisticated technology
we have worked the valuable blends of Super Kid Mohair
and Baby Alpaca fibres together into three yarns- “NOIR”,
“ROUGE”, “BLANCHE”: simple names that evoke
fundamental beauty.
We have left the natural beauty of the Super Kid Mohair
and the Baby Alpaca unaltered by unnecessary additions
and leave them to narrate their own story.”
Lanificio dell’ Olivo yarns can be seen at the « Evolutions
in Fibre » marketing area and at their stand, located in the
Italian Yarns Pavilion, stand V 11. n
ters. All steps of production are housed under the company’s own roof, ensuring quality, speed, flexibility, and
transparency in the manufacturing process.
“We want to change the image of Indonesia as a supplier base of only basic styles,” explains Felice Gunawan
Beckman, who has recently overseen the development of
a new Hong Kong-based design team to create fashionforward styles to inspire customers.
Executive Director Edward Gunawan lauds the company’s relationship with Shima Seiki as one of the contributing factors to PT Jaba Garmindo’s rapid growth. Mr.
Gunawan explains that Shima’s training, service, and
innovative software systems have opened the doors to
the potential for the collaborative design, programming,
and manufacturing of knitwear, promoting teamwork
between design and manufacturing.
PT Jaba Garmindo will exhibit jointly with Shima Seiki, along
with several spinners, in the July edition of SPINEXPOTM in
New York. According to Mr. Gunawan, “SPINEXPOTM is vital
to showcase the design potential of our way of working,
and show the benefit to the customer.”
Our yarns like
“Caprice”, “Noir”
and “Platinum”
are meant to be
very versatile;
thus according
to their knitting
interpretation,
they can be
employed and sold
all year around.
Lanificio dell'Olivo
Shanghai Xinnuo Garment Company
Like many of SPINEXPOTM’s exhibitors, Shanghai Xinnuo
Garment Company, founded in 2000, is a vertical operation that is embracing technology to expand at a rapid
pace. Moving away from commodity products and into
added-value knitwear, Xinnuo is currently devoting great
efforts to develop whole-garment products, using Shima
Seiki’s highly technical whole-garment knitting machines.
According to Lina Deng, head of business development
for the European and American markets, the company
can produce high-elastic knitted outerwear, underwear,
and sportswear that is “comfortable, considerate, fashionable, and changeable.” An in-house team of Japanese
designers researches and develops product in keeping
with seasonal trends and customer requirements.
Exhibiting a high degree of quality, design, and passion,
these knitwear companies, and others like them, are the
future of the Asian textile business; and they can be found
at SPINEXPOTM. n
TM
Trends inspiration
SPINEXPO A Source of Inspiration
tm
Exhibitors and visitors alike will find inspiration for Spring/Summer 2014 in the
array of colours, yarns, fabrics, garments, and accessories on display in SPINEXPO’s
General Forum, developed by trend director Sophie Steller and her team, and
executed by leading knitwear suppliers Brilliant Global, Shanghai Xinnuo
Garments, and Shenzhen Meilian Clothing Company.
WGSN
“EVOLUTIONS” is the theme for the season, as
colours and yarns are evolving to embrace new
lifestyles and environments, rapid change, and
the fading of cultural boundaries. While narrowly-defined trends no longer have meaning, inspiration is everywhere.
What inspires the spinners and knitters
this season?
GTIG Hubo
At GTIG Hubo, “Colour inspired the most for the
Spring 2014 season and was the starting point
for developing moods and themes. Colour plays
a huge part in our yarns, and we have used new
dyeing
Meadowbrook Inventions
Colour also inspired Meadowbrook Inventions,
according to Roberta Ruschmann. “The direction to brighter and happy colours has inspired
the new colours of Angelina fibres for 2014, including additions to both iridescent and metallic
fibres, and introduction of non-metallic colour
ranges. Favourite new features include the new
dyeable colours that we have introduced, giving
the customer the opportunity to be flexible.”
Huafu
At Huafu, the Adventure Seeker series is inspired by nature and made with innovative spinning technology, recreating the irregular textures
found in raw materials. In the Moving and Floating series, Huafu is inspired by the colours of
nature in the early Spring: light green and warm
yellow blended with bright and warm camel,
Additional inspiration is on tap from WGSN, the
online design intelligence provider; whose head
of materials and knits, Helen Palmer, will present
the company’s macro trends for the season. These
include Neo Geo, which explores geological-based
and earthy materials, updated with new finishes
and textures; Next Nature, an exotic take on botanical and tropical vibes that plays with more intense
shades and festive patterns; and NDA (New Digital
Aesthetic), mixing graphic, digital, distorted, and
optical patterns with classic structures, technical
aspects, and a hit of street savvy.
light and dark gray, infusing cotton with light and
natural lustre
Ms. Palmer will break the big picture down into
colour, stitch, silhouette, and details for yarn and
knitwear. “We’re delighted to have a stand at
Spinexpo this season,” she confirms. “As a go-to
show for the industry, it’s strategically important
for an international brand such as WGSN to participate and connect with our Asian customers,
giving us insight into the industry.”
Ningbo Consinee
Ningbo Consinee’s designer Jane Sked cites
the quirky but relaxed quality of English seaside towns such as Padstowe, Brighton, and
Hove as inspiration for the company’s cotton
blends, and the history and heritage of Scottish
cashmere for their new cashmere yarns named
Elgin, Oban, Montrose and Muir.
Novetex
Five different themes inspire Novetex’ yarns
for Spring/Summer 2014. The Comfort range
includes yarns that are “supremely soft and
harmonious next to the skin,” while Texture
uses spinning techniques and raw materials to
create artisanal marls, slubs, and thick/thin effects. Function is a range of performance yarns
blending natural and technical fibres such as
Coolmax® and Outlast®; Weekend focuses on
chunky cottons, Donegal, and washed effects.
The Elegant collection offers sheen, shine, and
metallic sparkle.
Helen Palmer
will break the
big picture down
into colour, stitch,
silhouette, and
details for yarn
and knitwear.
“We’re delighted
to have a stand
at SpinexpoTM
this season,”
she confirms.
Takizen
The ancient tradition of Japanese paper-making, reconsidered since the tragic earthquake
two years ago, inspires the specialty paper
yarns at Takizen. The company recommends a
new item called Lumi-Nero, developed in collaboration with Oike-Tec Company, the leading
Japanese lamé manufacturer who also exhibit
at SpinexpoTM. Lumi-Nero is a combination of
Japanese paper yarn and lamé.
students from Nottingham Trent University
Two exhibits in collaboration with students from
Nottingham Trent University, one utilizing exhibitors’ yarns, and another based on NTU’s extensive lace archives, provide yet more inspiration;
proving that SPINEXPOTM has become the most
inspirational trade show for the yarn and knitwear
business. n
5th edition
TM
new york
16-17-18 july 2013
Exhibition opens Tuesday, July 16th!
Offices
Japan: n.hayashi@spinexpo.com
Europe: kvt@spinexpo.com
USA: hong@adventi.com.cn
China: qinjing@adventi.com.cn
Indonesia: v.tafanelli@spinexpo.com
www.spinexpo.com
Information: info@spinexpo.com
metropolitan pavilion
Chelsea/Fashion District - New York City - USA
Tuesday 16th July to Thursday 18th July 2013
9.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. (4.00 p.m. on 18th July)