ExxonMobil Chemical Synthetics Division

ExxonMobil Chemical
Synthetics Division
Chemistries for Personal Care
PureSyn™ Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
pH Stability of PureSyn™ PAO
High Purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic
hydrocarbon fluids
Do not react with acid or base
Stable across entire pH range
Ideal for formulations containing:
AHA/BHA (Anti-aging products)
Strong Bases (Hair relaxers)
Non-Comedogenic
All of the PureSynTM PAO and Ester products
are non-comedogenic.
Will not clog pores
Also non-irritating
Substitute for petrolatum and other
comedogenic emollients, for example
•
•
•
•
isopropyl myristate
oleyl alcohol
safflower oil
others
Oil-Free Formulations
PureSyn PAO has a hydrocarbon structure
with some properties similar to mineral oil.
Formulations made with PureSyn PAO can
have an oil-free distinction.
Ingredient list on the formulated product
package would have INCI designation:
Hydrogenated polydecene
Hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers
Polydecene
Broad range of Spreadability
PureSynTM PAO and Esters
PureSyn products cover the entire range of
spreadability.
From very fast to slow
Formulations can be designed with cascading
effects by combining components.
May enhance sunscreen performance by
providing tailored spreading on skin.
Wide range of emollient properties.
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Reduction (PureSynTM PAO and Esters)
Certain PureSynTM products significantly
reduce TEWL; comparable to petrolatum.
Higher molecular weights provide most
protection
Provide water retention in skin and barrier
protection.
May enhance retention of active
ingredients in upper skin layers.
Solubility Profiles Allow Significant Formulation
Flexibility PureSynTM PAO and Esters
Broad spectrum of solubility in a range of
commonly used cosmetic substances.
Including organic sunscreen active ingredients
Solubility parameters ranging from 8.0 to 9.3
May be matched to sunscreen active ingredients
Selected products have silicone compatibility,
especially with dimethicones. May lead to:
improved aesthetics
reduced silicone in formulation
Can be used as carrier fluids and solubilizers.
Other Key Personal Care Characteristics
PureSynTM PAO and Esters
Non-greasy with good skin feel
Provide emolliency
Possess glossing characteristics
May provide water resistance properties
Film formation
Will not suppress foam like silicones
PolyAlphaOlefins (PAO)
Synthetic high performance functional fluids
Hydrogenated (saturated) olefin polymers
Manufactured by the catalytic oligomerization
of linear alphaolefins having 8 or more carbon
atoms
Wax-free combination of relatively unbranched
(compared to mineral oil) molecules of
predetermined chain length
PAO Chemistry
Linear
Oligomerization
Alphaolefins
Hydrogenation
PAO
PAO Chemistry - Oligomerization
H2C
CH
C 2H 5
H2C
CH
H2C
CH
n-C 4H 9
Dimers
Trimers
Tetramers
n-C 8H 17
Pentamers
CH
H2C
Hexamers
n-C 10H 21
Heptamers
CH
H2C
Octomers
.
n-C 12H 25
.
CH
H2C
.
n-C 14H 30
.
1-C18=, 1-20=, 1-C22=....... .
Linear Alphaolefin
n-C 6H 13
H2C
H2C
CH 2
Ethylene
CH
Polyalphaolefins
PAO Chemistry - Hydrogenation
H
Hydrogen
H
New PAO Technology
Conventional PureSyn™ PAO
Average Side Chain of 6-7 carbons
New, Patented PureSyn™ PAO
Average Side Chain of 8 carbons
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties
Properties
Method
2
4
6
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC
D 4052
0.798
0.820
0.827
6
30
50
Brookfield Viscosity
@ 25oC, cPs
Est.
Kinematic Viscosity
@ 100°C, cSt
D 445
1.7
4.1
5.7
@ 40°C, cSt
D 445
5.0
18
30
Viscosity Index
D 2270
NA
131
134
Pour Point, °C
D 97
-66
-63
-54
Flash Point, °C
D 92
154
221
243
Color, APHA
D 1209
10
10
10
PureSyn™ PAO Typical Properties
Properties
Method
Sp.Grav. @ 15.6oC D 4052
150
300
0.850
0.852
2900
6200
Brookfield Viscosity
@ 25oC, cPs
Est.
Kinematic Viscosity
@ 100°C, cSt
D 445
150
300
@ 40°C, cSt
D 445
1,500
3,100
Viscosity Index
D 2270
218
241
Pour Point, °C
D 97
-33
-27
Flash Point, °C
D 92
>265
>265
Color, APHA
D 1209
30
30
CTFA INCI Nomenclature
PureSyn™ 2 - 6, 150 - 300 = Hydrogenated C6-14
Polyalphaolephins
CTFA = Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
INCI = International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient name
Japanese Registration - JSCI Codes
Product
Japan Code
Japan Ingredient Name
PureSyn™ 2
N/A
N/A
PureSyn 4
502029
Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 6
502029
Alpha-olefin Oligomer
PureSyn 100 – 300
N/A
N/A
PureSyn™ PAO Benefits
Can be variously characterized as:
High purity hydrogenated isoparaffinic
hydrocarbon fluids
Wide viscosity range of products
Stable in high and low pH systems
Non-oily, Non-greasy
Broad spreadability range
Non-comedogenic
Bright and clear
Non-irritating
PureSyn™ PAO Functions
May be well-suited for use as:
Emollients/Lubricants
Water resistant agents
Occlusive barrier for moisturization
Film formers
Stable carrier fluids
Solubilizers
Glossing Agents
PureSyn™ PAO
Personal Care Formulations
Can be readily incorporated into:
Cosmetics
AHA/BHA Products
Lotions and Creams
Sunscreens
Moisturizers
Hair Relaxers
Antiperspirant/
Deodorants
Gels
Water-in Oil
Emulsions
Additional PureSyn™ PAO Properties
Solubilities
Solubility Parameters
Lin Water solubilization
Carbomer dispersion
Surface tension
Refractive Index
HLB (Required) values
Definition of Solubility Parameter
• The solubility parameter is an indicator of the solubility characteristics
of one material with another.
• It is the square root of the cohesive energy density (cal/cc)0.5. This
parameter gives an accurate estimation of the interaction energies in
many diverse systems.
• It can be used to predict the solubility interactions of cosmetic
materials in formulated products.
• The solubility parameter of a particular material can be directly
measured by a variety of methods or it can be calculated
• The parameter can be calculated by adding up the component parts and
then used to predict possible uses, probable substitutions and potential
problem interactions.
• A general guideline is that if the solubility parameters for two or more
materials are within +/- 1.5 (cal/cc)0.5, they are miscible.
PureSyn™ PAO - Solubility Parameters:
Fedors Correlation
Product
Solubility Parameter
(cal/cc)0.5
PureSyn 2
7.99
PureSyn 4
8.09
PureSyn 6
8.14
PureSyn 150
8.38
PureSyn 300
8.38
PureSyn™ PAO
Surface Tension Measurements
Product
Dynes/cm (24° C)
PureSyn 2
28.0
PureSyn 4
29.1
PureSyn 6
29.8
PureSyn 150
30.7
PureSyn 300
30.4
Measurement Procedure;
PureSyn 2 - 100; Wilhelmy Plate Method
PureSyn 150 - 3000; Spinning Drop Method
PureSyn™ PAO Refractive Indices
Product
@ 25oC
PureSyn 2
1.4418
PureSyn 4
1.4535
PureSyn 6
1.4565
PureSyn 150
1.4695
PureSyn 300
1.4707
Mineral Oils
1.4670-1.4900
PureSyn™ PAO Potential Attributes
in Personal Care Applications
• Provide a broad range of spreadability values that may be used to
customize skin feel.
• Stable over a broad pH range for easy formulation of acidic alpha- and
beta- hydroxy acid-containing creams as well as very high pH hair
relaxers.
• Compatible with a wide range of personal care ingredients including
certain sunscreen active ingredients and silicones.
• Can be readily incorporated into a broad range of skin and hair care
formulations.
• Provide barrier protection (high molecular weight/ high viscosity PAO)
in skin care applications by significantly reducing transepidermal
water loss.
PureSyn™ PAO (2-6)
ExxonMobil PureSyn polyalphaolefins (PAO) are a unique class
of premium fluids whose features set them apart from other
hydrocarbon fluids such as mineral oils, petrolatum and
polybutene.
PureSyn PAO are bright and clear, high purity, hydrogenated
isoparaffinic hydrocarbon fluids that can be variously
characterized as:
Non-comedogenic
Non-irritating
Odorless
Stable in high and low pH systems
When combined with other personal care ingredients, PureSyn
PAO may impart a non-greasy or non-oily feel.
Antiperspirant Stick with PureSyn™ 3E20
Phase
A
A
A
Ingredient
DC 245 Fluid
Hansicone Ultrabee
PureSyn 3E20
INCI Designation
Cyclomethicone
Dimethiconol Beeswax
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate
A
Stearyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
A
Crodafos CES
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate
(and) Ceteth-10 Phosphate
A
A
A
B
B
Peg 6000 Distearate
Myrj 59
Synchrowax Erl-C
Cabosil M-5
Reach Azp 908 Suf
PEG-150 Distearate
PEG-100 Stearate
C 18-36 Acid Glycol Ester
Silica
Aluminum Zirconium, Tetrachlorohydrex GLY
C
D
TALC 127 WC&D (Talc)
Fragrance MF 8038
Talc
Fragrance
Blending Procedure
1. Heat ingredients of phase A to 80°C
2. Stop heating and add phase B
3. Homomix while allowing to cool
4. Add remaining phases at 60°C
5. Pour at 55°C to 60°C
Wt%
40.25
5.00
5.00
18.00
0.50
2.00
2.00
1.00
0.75
24.00
1.00
0.50
100.00
Anhydrous Antiperspirant Roll-On with
PureSyn™ 6
This anhydrous suspension roll-on antiperspirant applies smoothly to the skin.
It is designed to leave a smooth talc-like feel
Phase
A
A
B
C
C
D
D
Ingredient
DC 345 Fluid
Bentone Gel VS-5 PC
PureSyn 6
REZAL 36GP
TALC 338
DC193 Surfactant
Fragrance
Total
INCI Designation
Wt%
Cyclomethicone
33.7
Cylclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (and)
20 Propylene C
Hydrogenated Polydecene
20
Aluminum Zirconium Tetrachlohydex-Gly
20
Talc
2
Dimethicone Copolyol
4
Fragrance
0.3
100
Blending Procedure
1. Mix phase A using the Silverson at 3000 rpm with large head (approx. 3 mins.)
2. Add phase B & C
3. Mix phase D together and add to batch
4. Mix on Silverson until uniform