Bolivia - Glenn Bartley

BOLIVIA PHOTOGRAPHY TRIP REPORT
NOVEMBER 1-28, 2012
Glenn Bartley and Dubi Shapiro
NOTES
Bolivia is an extremely diverse country when it comes to birds. In fact, some say that if it
wasn’t land-locked it would have more species than any other country. Endemism is not
especially high but there are some stunners to search for such as the Red-fronted Macaw
and Black-hooded Sunbeam. The country lacks a field guide and, perhaps because of this,
has been under-birded compared to the other Andean nations. This can lead to some
frustration when trying to get information about sites and species. The other side of the coin
is that it makes it a very exciting place to visit as a photographer because there have been so
few good images of the birds that live there. The goal of this trip was to find and
photograph as many of the endemics and near-endemics as possible.
To see images from this trip visit - www.glennbartley.com
RESOURCES
The best books to carry for Bolivia are:
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Birds of Peru
Songbirds of South America
Birds of Brazil: The Pantanal and Cerrado
Birds of Southern South America
Additional information can be gleaned from trip reports (such as this one). I will try to draw
some maps that I hope will be helpful to future visitors.
DAY BY DAY SUMMARY
The trip began with international flights in to the city of Santa Cruz. Coming in from sea level
it made a lot of sense to begin here in the lowlands rather than flying in to La Paz where the
air is notoriously thin.
Our first destination was right in the city at the local botanical gardens. There were a
surprising number of good birds to be found here and we visited the site several times while
we organized our rental car and prepared to head in to the field. The highlights included:
Red-billed Scythebill, Pale-crested Woodpecker and Bolivian Slaty Antshrike.
A second site that was worth a quick visit was Lomas de Arena. At this site we had Guira
Cuckoo, Burrowing Owl, Southern Lapwing and White-eared Puffbird.
Our first “real” birding site was a few hours away along the old road to Cochabamba. Rather
than waste a morning driving there we decided to visit the Santa Cruz airport and see if we
could come up with anything. It turned out to be an action packed morning with Greater
Rhea’s, White-bellied Nothura, Red-winged Tinamou and Wedge-tailed Grass Finch all giving
great photo opps.
After our unexpectedly successful morning we hit the road for the Refugio Los Volcanes.
About a 2-3 hour drive from Santa Cruz this lodge is positioned in a setting that is unlike
anywhere I had ever been. Set in a clearing down in a valley the small lodge is surrounded by
towering red cliffs on all sides. It truly is a spectacular destination! This site proved to be our
best for nocturnal birds and on our first night there we managed to photograph Bandbellied and Rufescent Screech Owl. Fruit placed out near the kitchen provided exceptional
opportunities to photograph Purplish and Plush-crested Jays and the edges of the clearing
were good for a few of the other common birds including Rufous-bellied Thrush and Bluefronted Amazon Parrot. After two nights at this wonderful lodge it was once again time to
move on.
The town of Samaipata was conveniently located along the old road to make a stop for the
night. Based on a recommendation we stayed at a Dutch run hotel called “La Vispera”. The
grounds around the hotel were good for Black-capped Warbling Finch, White-tipped
Plantcutter, Red-crested Finch and Lineated Woodpecker.
A few hours further down the road we found ourselves at the Red-fronted Macaw Lodge.
This excellent site has been set up to protect the breeding cliff of the endemic and
endangered species for which the lodge is named. During the time of our visit the Macaws
were constantly around the cliffs as were the endemic Cliff Parakeets. The third endemic to
be seen here is the drab Bolivian Blackbird.
The habitat around the lodge is dry scrub and it is loaded with birds. Commonly seen species
included Blue and Yellow Tanager, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, Mitred Parakeet, Greater
Wagtail Tyrant, Ringed Warbling Finch, Creamy-bellied Thrush, White-fronted Woodpecker,
Golden-billed Saltator, Masked Gnatcatcher and Glittering-bellied Emerald. We spent three
days here working on getting great images of the Macaws as well as the supporting cast of
characters.
Our next move took us further down the old road towards the town of Comarapa. This
would be our base for visiting the higher elevation cloud forests of Siberia where we would
search for the Rufous-faced Antpitta and Black-hooded Sunbeam. Lower elevations were
good for the Bolivian Earthcreeper, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Olive-crowned Crescentchest
and Great Pampa Finch. Although we missed the Sunbeam here we did find a great site for a
territorial Red-tailed Comet. What a spectacular hummingbird!!
We spent several days in this area battling the sunny conditions and elusive birds before
continuing on to Cochabamba. Along the way roadside stops turned up Fulvous-headed
Brush-Finch, Brown-capped Tit-Spinetail, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, Brown-capped Redstart
and Creamy-breasted Canastero.
For a bit of a rest morning we visited the Laguna Alalay which is right in town. Here we
photographed Collared Plovers and spotted Rosy-billed Pochards, Red Shovellers and Whitebacked Stilts amongst other common water birds.
At one point while walking around the perimeter of the lake a brilliant red, white and blue
bird emerged from the reeds. This was a highly unexpected colour palette to encounter here
and it definitely took a few moments for the brain to comprehend that the bird we were
seeing was actually a Cattle Egret that some local fool had painted with the colours of the
local soccer team.
We were fortunate enough to have a local researcher to take us out to her study site the
next morning to look for the Cochabamba Mountain Finch (another endemic). That morning
we were lucky to find and get decent images of this species as well as Rock Earthcreeper.
We were unlucky to back the car in to a rock. Crap!
That afternoon we visited the nearby San Miguel Polylepis forest and had an awesome
encounter with Red-crested Cotingas as well as Puna Canastero, White-winged Diuca Finch
and Slender-billed Miner.
Missing the Sunbeam was not sitting well. Not one bit! Reluctantly we made the decision to
drive back the 200km or so to the “site” for the Sunbeam and try our luck again. But once
again luck was not on our side. In addition to the THREE flat tires that we got on the way, a
huge protest had pushed traffic from the new road to the old one and there were so many
cars and so much dust that any birds that may have been there had wisely moved on.
Consolation prizes along the way included a cooperative Rufous Antpitta and Light-crowned
Spinetails. But at the end of two more days we had to face the fact that it was strike two on
the sunbeam.
The original plan was to spend the next 2-3 days along the Chapare road looking for all the
goodies there. Unfortunately the protest was raging on. Angry locals had blocked the road,
flipped over police cars and set them on fire and the smell of tear gas was heavy in the air. It
wasn’t that difficult of a decision to move on and skip this area even though it meant missing
a few good birds.
We drove towards and past the town of Oruro and to the Lago Uru-Uru. Here we had a
messy day of shooting all three Flamingo species as well as Andean Avocet and a few
migrant shorebirds. Its always fun to get down and crawl in the mud. Well…as long as you
get the shot. Otherwise it is just loco!
On we travelled in the direction of La Paz for the final phase of the trip. The first site to be
visited was just a half hour or so from the city. Here up in the puna habitat we were able to
coax out Streak-throated Canastero, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch before descending to the
Cotopata Trail. The rain was looming so there wasn’t much time to search for birds. In the
first 200 metres of the trail we were able to find some cooperative Three-striped
Hemispinguses and a Rufous-backed Chat Tyrant and heard the persistent calling of a
Diademed Tapaculo. Alas, the skies opened up and we retired to the town of Coroico for the
night.
The following day there was a National census taking place and we were informed that we
would not be able to drive anywhere. Great! Thankfully Coroico is set in an area where you
can hit the trails and wander in to some decent habitat. Not too far out of town we were
able to nail Black-faced Tanagers and Variable Antshrikes. This was a great relief after
assuming that the day would be a total loss. Back at the hotel we had a good look at a
stunning male Swallow Tanager and some Speckled Chachalacas to finish the day.
Sometimes on photo trips you hit patches of bad luck. It felt like we were just grinding it out
for the past week or so. It’s not that we weren’t getting good images. We were just having
to work really hard for them and also deal with all of the protests, censuses, flat tires,
smashed bumpers, etc, etc. Perseverance always pays off though and I always try to think
that if you can just hang in there you will be rewarded.
On November 22 we had one of those epic days of photography that is sure to live long in
the memory. Starting out before dawn in Coroico we headed up the main road to the
infamous “road of death”. As the sun began to shine our first images of the day materialized
as a pair of very tame Mountain Caracaras cooperatively posed for us on a gorgeous perch.
A great way to start the day! From then on the pace of the day picked up to an almost
dizzying pace. A roadside flock held Scarlet-bellied and Hooded Mountain Tanagers. Not
one, or two, but FOUR Hooded Mountain Toucans emerged from the cloud forests to pose
for us. Mountain Wrens, Band-tailed Fruiteaters and Black Thistletails were all giving
amazing photo opportunities. It wasn’t even lunch yet!!! Next up was a charismatic Whitecollared Jay who cooperated nicely and we finished the day with Superciliaried Hemispingus
and, better yet, Orange-browed Hemispingus. What an insane day!!!
After a day like that we simply had to return to this site again and see if our luck would
continue. Of course you can never recreate a day like that and the action was indeed much
slower. We were able to pick up Sickle-winged Guan, Plushcap, Barred Fruiteater and the
other subspecies of Light-crowned Spinetail. Still not a bad day! In the late afternoon we
stopped in at a lower elevation site and from the dense undergrowth pulled out a cute little
Ochre-faced Tody-Tyrant before calling it a day.
The next morning we decided to try to finish up with the “Road of Death”. As a side note –
this road earned its name because more drivers have lost their lives per km of road than any
other. The dirt road is carved in to the mountain slopes and the consequences of slipping off
the edge are indeed severe. Luckily the Bolivians realized this and worked hard to create a
paved, and much safer, bypass around the old road. This is such a great gift for bird
watching because now you can explore the Carraterra de la Muerte with virtually no traffic.
It is a stunning area and is loaded with good birds. Hopefully the habitat will remain
preserved here for generations to come.
Our final morning produced very few new birds. The Cotopata trail was looking promising
for the Diademed Tapaculo. However, as Tapaculos like to do, these birds stayed hidden and
impossible to photograph.
On the way back to La Paz the weather was abnormally calm. The decision was made to stop
at a highland site and hike up away from the main road to where we hoped to find some
good birds. I was hoping for an Olivaceous Thornbill but there were none to be found. We
did nail great shots of Puna Tapaculo (the only easy member of this Genus) and Scribbletailed Canastero. Hiking at this altitude (4000m +) is always hard work but we had enough
energy for one last stop at “La Cumbre” where we found some Andean Geese, Diuca Finches
and a few more waterbirds before heading back to La Paz for the night.
Our next mission was to travel to Lago Titicaca and try for the critically endangered
Flightless Grebe. This was a poorly planned endeavour that miraculously worked out. Finding
a hotel on the lake in the dark we somehow managed to find a canoe in the morning to
paddle out in to the lake. Before long we had plenty of Grebes to look at. Shooting from a
canoe requires a certain amount of technique and team work. If two people are both trying
to shoot at the same time it will inevitably lead to poor results. SO this mornings shoot was
an exemplary example of team work. As the Canadian with loads of paddling experience I
nominated myself captain of the ship and allowed my co-pilot to do all of the shooting for us
both. This worked out great and we were able to get some nice frames of the Grebes.
The final site for the trip was near the town of Sorota where we had heard that the Blackhooded Sunbeams were reliable. This was our third and final chance for this species and the
anticipation was intense. Driving down towards the town we spotted an area that was
loaded with flowers and looked promising to search for hummingbirds. Sure enough we
hopped out of the car, walked 10 metres and there he was – a stunning male Black-hooded
Sunbeam perched at the perfect angle to show off its incredible blue back. Blasting away at
8 frames a second the moment came and went and as we looked at our LCD screens what
we saw was one of the most amazing hummingbirds on earth and what I felt was euphoric
relief. It was an incredible way to end the trip.
MAPS
SITE LISTS
Santa Cruz Botanical Gardens
Undulated Tinamou
Red Winged Tinamou-airport
White bellied Nothura-airport
Greater Rhea-airport
Whistling Heron
Great Egret
Borowing Owl
Grey necked Wood-Rail
Aplomando Falcon
Plumbeous Kite
Roadside Hawk
Southern Caracara
Picui Ground-Dove
Upland Sandpiper-2-3
Green checked Parakeet
Dusky headed Parakeet
Yellow Chevron Parakeet
Blue Winged Parrotlet?
Turquoise fronted Parrot(Amazon)
Squirrel Cuckoo
Pale headed Woodpecker-2
Yellow Tufted Woodpecker
White wedge Piculet??
Giura Cuckoo
Gilded Hummingbird
Blue Crowned Trogon
Blue crowned Motmot
Black fronted Nunbird
Chestnut Eared Aracari
Bolivian Slaty Antshrike-1 Male
Plain Crowned Spinetail
Red billed Scythbill
Buff Throated Woodcreeper
Black banded Woodcreeper
Olivacious Woodcreeper
Rufous Hornero
Fawn breasted Wren
Thrush-like Wren
Southern house Wren
Rufous Cinorsis
Short Crested/Swainsons flycatcher
Eastern Kingbird
Tropical Kingbird
White winged Becard
Masked Tityra
Greenish Elinea
Purplish Jay
Creamy bellied Thrush
Yellowish Pipit -1 airport
Solitairy Cacique -2-3??
Sayaca Tanger
Guira Tanager
Wedge tailed Finch
Chopi Blackbird
Saffron Finch
Lomas De Arenas
Samaipata
Brazilian Teal
Whistling Heron
Roseate Spoonbill
Limpkin
Borrowing Owl
Southern Lapwing
Guira Cuckoo
White Eared Puffbird
Campo Flicker
Chotoy Spinetail
Red crested Cardinal
Lineated Woodpecked-2
White wedge Piculet/Ocellated
Sooty Fronted Spintail-2
Brown capped Fly
Southern beardeard
Tayrannulet?(images)
Mouse Colored Fly
Yellow browed Tyrant
Creamy bellied Thrush
White tipped Plantcutter
Red pilated Finch
Black capped Warbling-Finch
Golden billed Saltator
Los Volcanes
Grey Tinamou-1
Blue throated Piping Guan
Tiger Heron sp?
Black chested buzzard-Eagle
White tipped Swift
Grey fronted Dove
Picui Ground-Dove
Red Necked Woodpecker-2
White barred Piculet
Green Kingfisher
Band bellied Owl-1
Rufescent Screech-Owl-1
Turquoise Fronted Parrot
Green checked Parakeet
Yellow billed Cuckoo-1
Toco Toucan-1
Fork tailed Woodnymph?
Gliterring bellied Emerald
Masked Trogon
Short Tailed AntThrush
Ochre cheecked Spinetail
Plain Antvireo
Slaty Eleania
Small billed Eleania
White winged Phebee
Pearly vented Today Fly
Alder Fly
Wood-pewee
Golden crowned Fly
White necked Thrush
Rufous bellied Thrush
Bolivian Tapaculo
Purplish Jay
Flush capped Jay
Yungas Manakin
Moustached Wren
Red eyed Vireo
Crested Oropendula
Dusky Olive Oropendula
Black capped Warbling-Finch-along the
dry section
Sacaya Tanager
Palm Tanager
Thick billed Euphonia
Saffron Billed Sparrow
Red-fronted Macaw Lodge
Least Grebe
Neotropic Cormorant
Andean Condor
Black chested buzzard-Eagle
Turkey Vulture
Black Vulture
American Kestrel
Green Kingfisher
Red fronted Macaw-hundreds
Blue Crowned Parakeet
Cliff Parakeet-hundreds
Mitred Parakeet
Green Cheeked Parakeet
Yellow chevroned Parakeet
White bellied Hummingbird
Glittering bellied Hummingbird
Blue Tufted Starthroat
Andean Swift
White collared Swift
White Fronted Woodpecker
Narrow billed Woodcreeper
Bolivian Earthcreeper-2
White tipped Dove
Eared Dove
Crowned Slaty Fly
Brown crested Fly
White bellied Tyrannulet-1?(photo)
Suiriri Flycatcher
Southern scrub fly??
Southern bearded
Tayrannulet?(images)
Small billed Ealinea
Greater wagtail Tyrant
Cliff Flycatcher
Barn colored fly
Southern Martin
Blu and white Swallow
White tipped Plantcutter
Creamy billed Thrush
Thrush?
House Wren
Masked Gnatcatcher
Tropical Parula
Eapulet Oriole-2
Bolivian Blackbird
Ringed Warbling-Finch
Grey Crested Finch
Golden billed Saltator
Black backed Grosbeak
Blue and yellow Tanager
Sacaya Tanager
Purpule throated Euphonia
Ultramarine Grosbeak
Saffron Finch
Rufous collared Sparrow
Comarapa & Siberia
Andean Tinamou-2
Speckled Teal
Andean Guan
Swallow tailed Kite
Aplomado Falcon
Andean Gull
Band tailed Pigeon
Mitred Parakeet
Barred Parakeet-flock of 20-30 ??
Scaly naped Parrot
Andean Swift
Sparkling Voiletear
Black-hooded Sunbeam-1 Female
Violet Throated Startfronlet
Red Tailed Comet
Tyrian Metaltail
Brown capped Tit-Spinetail
Black throated thistetail-2
Azaras Spietail
Striped Crowned Spinetail
Light Crowned Spinetail
Pearled Treerunner
Giant Antshrike
Spot-Breasted Thornbird-2
Rufous faced Antpitta-1
Rufous Antpitta-1
Trilling Tapaculo
Olive Crowned Crescentchect-3
Rough lagged Tyrannulet-1
Tawny rumped Tyrannulet-1? (photo)
Soutern beardless Tyranullet-??
(Photo)
White bellied Tyranulet-1
White Throated Tyrannulet
Yellow billed Tit-Tyrant
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
Cinnamon Fly
Plumbeous Tyrant-2 male 1 Female
White winged Black-Tyrant
White browed Chat-Tyrant
Rufous breasted Chat-Tyrant
Red crested Cotinga
White tipped Plantcutter
Slaty Thrush
Glossy black Thrush
Rust and yellow Tanager-2
Fawn breasted Tanager
Blue and yellow Tanager
Sayaca Tanager
Common Bush-Tanager
Blue winged Mt. Tanager
White browed Conebill-1
Hepatic Tanager-1 male
Grey bellied Flowerpiercer
Fulvous headed Brush-Finch
Bolivian Warbling-Finch
Rufous sided Warbleing-Finch
Rufous browed Warbling-Finch
Black capped Warbling-Finch
Bolivian Brush-Finch
Striped Headed Brush-Finch
Rufous bellied Saltator
Golden billed Saltatot
Great Pampa Finch
Blackburnian Warbler-1 Female
Brown capped whitestart
Pale lagged Warbler
Hooded Siskin
Siberia to Cochabamba
Puna Ibis
Andean Condor-1 Ad.
Aplomado Falcon
Grey Hooded Parakeet
Giant Hummer
Rusty-vented Canastero
Brown capped Tit-Spinetail
Brown capped whitestart
Yellow browed Tyrant
Grey bellied Flowerpiercer
Giant Conebill-2-3
Foulvous headed Brush-Finch
Black hooded Sierra-Finch
Band tailed Seedeater
Greenish Yellow-Finch
Rufous sided Warbling-Finch
Rufous bellied Saltator
Cochabamba-Cerro Tunari
Andean Tinamou
Rosy billed Pochard-10 at Cochabamba
Lake
Ruddy DuckCrested Duck
Torrent Duck-3 cerro Tunari
Yellow billed Pintail
Red Shoveler
Cinnamon Teal
Puna Tael
Speckled Teal
Andean Coot
Common Moorhen
Andean Lapwing
Black necked Stilt
Wattaled Jacana
American Golden Plover-1 at Lake
Collared Plover-10 at lake
Lesser Yellowlage
Greater Yellowlage
Solitary Sandpiper
Spotted Sandpiper
Least Sandpiper
Bairds Sandpiper
Andean Gull
Spot winged Pigeon
Bare faced Ground-Dove
Golden spotted/black winged GroundDove-??
Eared Dove
Grey hooded Parakeet
Andean Swift
Tyrian Metaltail
Slender Billed Miner
Rock Earthcreeper
Bar winged Cinclodes
Brown capped Tit-Spinetail
Puna Canastero-2
Streak fronted Thornbird-5
Red crested Cotinga
Chiguanco Thrush
Great Thrush
White capped Dipper
Blue and yellow Tanager
Grey bellied Floerpiercer
White winged Diuca Finch
Ash breasted sieera Finch
Plumbeous Sierra Finch
Plain colored Seeeater
Rufous sided Wabling-Finch
Cochabamba Mt. Finch-4
Bright rumped Yellow-Finch
Greenish yellow-Finch
Rufous bellied Saltator
Golden billed Saltator
Bolivian Blackbird-30 out of
Cochabamba
Lake Uru-Uru
Ornate Tinamou-2 on the way to LA
Paz
Andean Flamingo-tens
Jame's Flamingo-Tens
Chilean Flamingo-Tens
Puna Teal
Yellow billed Teal
Speckled Teal
Crested Duck
Andean Coot
Giant Coot?
Andean Avocet
Puna Plover-2
Bairds Sandpiper
Lesser yellowlage
Andean Gull
Many colored Rush-Tyrant
Wren-like Rushbird
La Cumbre to Coroico road
Speckled Chacalaca
Sickle winged Guan
White Tipped Dove
Mountain Caracara
Yungas Pygmy-Owl-1 at Chuspitat
Tropical Screech-Owl-(H) at
Esmeraldas Hotel
American Kestrel
Ocellated Piculet?
Hooded Mountain Toucan-4
Parrots-?
Band tailed Pigeon
Buff-thighed Puffleg-?? above Coroico
Violet throated Startfrontlet
Tyrian metaltail
Sparkling Violetear
Amethyst-throated Sunangel
Huminbird sp-1 ?
Rufous faced Antpitta(H)
Rufous Antpitta(H)
Barred Anttursh(H)
Streak throated Canastero
Scribble tailed Canastero
Light crowned Spinetail-(white
crowned subsp.)
Azaras Spinetail
Black throated Thizsltail
Tawny Tit-Spinetail-1 above Pongo
Pearled Treehunter
Rufous capped Antshrike-/Upland-1
Female ??
Variable Antshrike-white bellied Form
Mountain Wren
Daidemd Tapaculo
Puna Tapaculo
Trilling Tapaculo
Ochare face Tody-Fly- Hotel La Finca
Yungas Tody-Fly-2 Hotel La Finca
White banded Tyrannulet
Tawny Rumped Tyrannulet
White Throated Tyrannulet
Mottle checked Tyrannulet-4 above
Coroico
Ochracesus breasted Fly
Sierran Eleania
Streaked necked Fly
Brown backed Chat-Tyrant
Crowned Chat-Tyrant
Rufous breasted Chat-Tyrant
Barred Becard
Dusky capped Fly
Puna Ground-Tyrant
White Fronted Ground-Tyrant
Red Crested Cotinga
Band-tailed Fruiteater
Barred Fruiteater
Yungas Manakin
White Collared Jay
Green Jay
Purplish Jay
Hooded Mt. Tanager
Scarlet bellied Mt. Tanager
Chestnut bellied Mt. Tanager
Black faced Tanager-2 above Coroico
Blue capped Tanager
Blue backed Conebill
Orange Browed Hemispingus-7-8
below Chuspitata 1 at Cotapata trail
Drab Hemispingus
Supercilated Hemispingus
Three Tripe Hemispingus-common
Citric Warbler
Spectacled Warbler
Slate throated Warbler
Masked Flowerpiercer
Moushtached Flowerpiercer
Bolivian Brush-Finch
Striped Headed Brush-Finch-Spliit?
Plushcap-4
Southern Yellow billed Casique-1
Plian Colored Seedeater
Band tailed Seedeater
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
Peruvian Sierra-Finch
Ash breasted Sierra-Finch