MFR 4.2 (SPRING) 06/02am

NORTH TO ALASKA
Photos clockwise starting on the far left:
BY RANDI WINTER
Homeport Cruising
Either the Spanish or the Chinese were the first cruisers to sail
past Vancouver, but neither ever came ashore. They kept sailing,
and missed what makes Vancouver a top tourist destination and
premier gateway to Alaska. From May till September, we watch
125 cruise ship departures glide under the Lion’s Gate Bridge to
or from Alaska.
Vancouverites’ interest in Alaska is not unique. It is the second
most popular cruise itinerary after the Caribbean. Economically
it provides BC with a huge boost, including a future port of call
in Campbell River. Seattle offers significant competition this year
including all Princess Inside Passage cruises aboard the 2,670
passenger Diamond and Sapphire Princesses.
Alaska’s largely inaccessible and spectacular terrain is best
viewed or approached from the sea or the air, making it an ideal
cruise destination. Alaska boasts one pilot per 58 people. Flying
over and walking on glaciers that were once 5,000 feet thick is
one of the most popular and thrilling experiences in Alaska.
“Calving” is spectacular, when tidewater glaciers warm up and
bits of the edges break off, becoming icebergs, with several
hundred tons of ice falling into the water. We are used to white
ice, but when compressed, it reflects blue instead. Glacier Bay
National Park is protected, allowing just 139 ship visits each
summer. Holland America’s 56-year history allows its seven
ships the most permits.
The Alaska Cruise Factors
When to go? Best weather is July to mid-August, but weather is
fickle. Mothers and babies of all species steal the show in May.
Endless daylight is mid-June to July, with autumn colors often
starting by the end of August. Alaska’s climate varies from a
rainy, chilly 50 degrees to the high 80s (we had 90s one visit)
28 GLV | May/June 2004
during summer (Ketchikan averages some 333 inches of rain
each year). You will be outside lots, so bring clothing that can be
worn in versatile layers.
The next consideration is routing—should it be an Inside
Passage (round trip starting or ending in Vancouver or Seattle)
or a Glacier (directional) Route, which will start or end in
Whittier, Seward or Anchorage (closest airport)? Vancouver
offers regular flights to Alaska to complement the one-way
cruises. If time allows, consider the Glacier Route Cruise, taking
a cruise tour, or adding time to experience more of Alaska, from
Denali to the Arctic Circle, or it’s like coming to Vancouver and
saying you have seen BC. Don’t count on cruise dog sledding
excursions after the beginning of August—too hot, and not
enough snow. Instead fly from Anchorage with one of those
Alaskan pilots!
Once that has been decided, the size and personality of the ship
as well as price are the next considerations. Those new, 113,000ton Diamond and Sapphire Princesses are the largest afloat, and
there are small yachts for as few as 12 to 22, like American Safari
Yacht Cruises and the Revelation being the most intimate and
perfect for get-togethers. Celebrities charter smaller vessels like
these. Cruise West, Lindblad or Clipper Cruise Lines’ small-ship
ability to dock in many unique locations that the larger ships
cannot even approach by tender is a huge advantage using their
kayaks, zodiacs or helicopter pads. These vessels remain in the
calmer coastal channels and fjords of the Inside Passage.
With 50 years experience, Chuck West founded the concept
of up-close and personal small ship adventure cruising to Alaska,
focusing on scenery, wildlife, natural history and culture with
like-minded enthusiasts. CruiseWest’s Spirit of Oceanus is the
smallest ship to regularly offer a longer, more inclusive itinerary
between Vancouver and Anchorage. CruiseWest’s other small
ships, as well as Glacier Bay Cruiseline, Society Expeditions and
Lindblad Expeditions, and the all-American Glacier Bay
Cruiseline’s Sport Utility Vessels and kayak launching platforms
for small excursion crafts, offer activities that are included in the
cruise price. This is common to many specialized cruise lines,
including America West Steamboat’s Empress of the North. This
accounts for some of the price differential with more included,
more naturalists and fewer passengers. Some sail between Seattle
or Vancouver and Alaska on positioning cruises only, spending
the season in Alaska. Others of note include Aurora Explorer, a
working freighter on the BC coast which visits remote areas of
the Inside Passage, and the Nautilus Explorer, a 116-ft boat
taking passengers on 7 and 9-night scuba diving cruises along
the BC and Alaska coast.
The Lux Life
For those who prefer ultra-deluxe luxury like Radisson or
Seabourn’s all-suite ships will have another choice with
SilverSea’s Silver Shadow. Their first voyage sails via Japan and
Russia into Alaska before docking in Vancouver. These unique
itineraries are in high demand for experienced cruisers. Crystal
continues to offer longer itineraries that are directional from San
Francisco. Their outstanding Enrichment Program will have you
wanting more sea days to take in all the opportunities for a wide
range of personal enrichment.
Ports of Call
New this season is Prince Rupert on some itineraries. Tracy Arm
fjord, one of the most pristine and tranquil areas to sail in Alaska
with steep rock faces rising from the seas, Icy Strait Point in
Alaska has been developed specifically for cruise ship calls.
Situated 22 miles west of Glacier Bay, this area has long been
popular with small ship adventure cruises for its abundance of
sea and wildlife. Only one cruise ship per day will be allowed to
visit the wilderness area. 15 excursions have been organized
including brown-bear spotting, whale-watching at Point
Adolphus and fly-in fishing tours.
The port of Whittier replaces Seward as turnaround for
Princess and Carnival ships sailing the one-way route. On Prince
William Sound, Whittier is 123 miles from Anchorage. The
motorcoach takes 1.5 hours (Seward is 3 hours), travelling alongside Turnagain Arm fjord, a favourite spot for beluga whales. The
2.6 mile Tunnel is the longest highway tunnel in North America
and the only dual use highway/rail tunnel in the world.
All Price Quotes Are Not Equal
A word of advice when looking through magazines or newspapers and you see pricing in Canadian dollars—be SURE to ask
what the rate of exchange is. You will be horrified to find out that
the exchange rates can be as high as 1.45! Gone are the lower
exchange rates for Canadians in sympathy to our puny buying
power. Confirm quotes, including taxes and government fees.
Want to learn more?
For all things Alaska, I recommend The Complete Guide to the
Alaska Cruise Experience: Alaska By Cruise Ship, by Anne
Vipond. It includes port attractions, hotels and maps where the
ships dock. Remember proof of citizenship, with passports good
for 6 months past return travel date. Children not travelling with
both parents need notarized letters authorizing travel.
For the Vancouver-Alaska Cruise Schedule visit www.portvancouver.com/cruise/
schedule.html, and check cruise line websites.
For more information or a suggested packing list to Alaska email me at
randi@passionatetravel.com or contact me at 604 261-7871, or 1 800 745-7753.
May/Junel 2004 | GLV 29