Winter, 2011 - Edmonton Pet Parrot Association
Transcription
Winter, 2011 - Edmonton Pet Parrot Association
Winter 2011-2012 Articles Inside: The Parrot Post Newsletter of the Edmonton Pet Parrot Association • Letter from the editor ………….2 About The Club • Parrots and peppers……….2 The EPPA focuses on aspects of keeping healthy, happy parrots. If you have a parrot or are thinking of getting one, join the club. At our meetings, you can get helpful information on topics such as nutrition, health, and behaviour. We have guest speakers, research reports presented by members, toy-making sessions, and round table discussions on topics of mutual interest. Members are able to bring healthy pet parrots to meetings. Members are entitled to attend meetings, participate in parrot shows, and attend the June BBQ and the annual Christmas party. • Species profile: the comical, clownish caiques…….....3 • Clicker Training 101……………5 • Cape Parrot Conservation..10 Meeting Time and Locations: Meetings are held the last Wednesday every month at the Allendale Community Hall (6330 105 A St) from 7:00 pm to 9:00 pm, except for December, June and July. Members also receive a newsletter, and a membership card that gets them discounts at some local pet stores. Membership fees are $22 (single) or $27 (family) per year (Sept to Aug 31). Fees are ½ this for those who join half way through the year. entire day. Please Email Louise at louise.walden@shaw.ca for more information or if you’d like to volunteer. Next Meetings Upcoming Events Edmonton Pet Expo We will be having a set of information tables at the Edmonton Pet Expo this year. It runs from January 21-22, 2012 at the Northlands Edmonton Expo Center, Hall A. We will need volunteers to come with their parrots and answer questions from Expo visitors about their bird(s). The hours are 10 am to 6 pm on Saturday and 10 am to 5 pm Sunday. However, volunteers do not have to stay for an I plan on bringing old “Bird Talk” magazines I am finished with so that Pet Expo visitors can take them in exchange for a small donation to the club. If anyone else has any bird magazines they are finished with they would like to bring, that would be great! The next regular meetings th will be on January 26 , rd th February 23 , March 30 , th th April 27 , and May 25 2012. Ideas and suggestions for meeting activities or presentations can be Emailed to Jessie at jzgurski@ualberta.ca Visit our Website: www.eppa.ca The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Parrot Factoid Letter from the Editor I’d first like to apologize for not coming up with a newsletter for so long! With working and being a student full time, I had trouble finding the time. However, I should now be able to write a quarterly newsletter now that I’m finished with school. The above photo shows my Lesser Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Mitri, eating a habanero pepper. Habanero peppers are far hotter than jalapeno or tabasco peppers, yet parrots and other birds eat them with no problems. A mammal, however, would experience a harsh burning sensation upon biting such a pepper. Our club has held several information tables at Expos during the past year including at the 2011 Pet Expo, the Edmonton Women’s show and the Family Expo in Sherwood Park. I want to thank everyone who has helped out at these events. I know that a lot of people enjoy meeting the parrots! We have had a variety of interesting presentations at club meetings as well as two toy-making sessions. Ian and Janine gave two different presentations: one about their New store, Meika’s Bird House, and one about clicker training. I have included an article about clicker training in this newsletter for anyone who missed this informative presentation. I want to thank Ian and Janine for their presentations and for the clickers they brought for us! Be sure to check out their wild bird and parrot supply store at 971 A Ordze Road in Sherwood Park (just off of Wye Road). I would also like to thank everyone who brought supplies for the toymaking sessions (including David & Louise W, and Kim K), and Ingrid for bringing snacks to all the meetings. Thanks also to Nancy for hosting the June BBQ at her place and for bringing prizes to raffle at the Christmas party. Hagen (www.hagen.com/hari/) also donated several items. ~Jessie Zgurski jzgurski@ualberta.ca It turns out that bird pain sensor neurons (nociceptors) do not react the same way to capsaicins (the molecules that makes peppers hot) as mammal pain sensor neurons do. Birds can therefore eat very hot peppers without experiencing a burning sensation. There may be an evolutionary reason for this. Some birds (like toucans) disperse seeds when they eat fruit and pass out undigested seeds in their droppings. Mammals, however, chew fruit and destroy the seeds. Many plants are better off if their seeds are eaten by birds. Above: Left: Chichi, a Senegal Parrot who belongs to Sandy and Gene V. Right: Peggy, a Jenday Conure who belongs to Jessie and Quentin. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Species Profile: The playful, clownish Caique “To catch the reader’s attention, place an interesting sentence or quote from the story here.” Above and Left: White-bellied Caiques “Tickles” and “Pickles”. Photo courtesy of Linda Getzlaf. Bottom left: Green-thighed Caiques, from wikipedia.net Species Profile: Caiques “Caiques” are parrots from the genus Pionites. There are two species: the White-bellied Caique (Pionites leucogaster) and the Black-capped Caique (Pionites melanocephalus). Some field guides refer to them as the White-bellied Parrot and the Black-capped Parrot. The two species are the same size (about 23 cm tall) but can easily be differentiated by their colours. While both actually have white bellies, the Black-capped Caique has a black “cap” of feathers on its head and a dark beak, while the white belly has an orange cap and a pink beak. Many young White-bellied Caiques have some black feathers on their crowns. That is normal and their crowns will become solid orange as they mature. There is some colour variation within each species. In Black-capped Caiques, one subspecies has orange thighs, flanks and tail coverts and the other (sometimes called the “Pallid Caique”) has yellow thighs, flanks and undertail coverts. There are three subspecies of the White-bellied Caique. The one that is most common in captivity has yellow thighs and flanks, along with a green upper tail. There is also a variety (sometimes called the Green-thighed Caique) that has green thighs and a green tail. The last subspecies has yellow thighs and a yellow tail. These subspecies can all interbreed. Whitebellies and black caps can also interbreed. Wild Caiques occur in the forests of northern South America. Black-capped Caiques occur north of the Amazon River while White-bellied Caiques occur south of it. Wild caiques can be very noisy, but they can be difficult to actually spot. This is because they prefer to stay in the canopy. Wild caiques tend to be seen in pairs, family groups or small flocks. Like most parrots, they nest in tree cavities. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Species Profile: Caique (continued) Wild caiques eat a variety of seeds, nuts and fruits. Pet caiques generally do well on a diet of pellets, supplemented with healthful fruits, vegetables, seeds, and nuts. Caiques are sometimes referred to as the “clowns” of the bird world. They are generally active birds that love to play. Many individuals love to lie on their backs, hop, or chase and fetch items. In fact, some flighted caiques (i.e not winged trimmed) prefer to climb, walk and hop over flying. Because they are so active, a caique should be given a large cage relative to its size, stocked with lots of chew toys and perches. Plenty of out-of-cage time is also a must. Water bowls for caiques typically need to be refilled or changed frequently, as many caiques will place food into their water dishes. Some may also bath their water away, as caiques often love to bath or shower. Birds who do this can benefit from having a water bottle, in addition to a water bowl, if left alone for a long period of time. Many caique owners keep their birds in pairs, either as two birds of the same species, or as a White-belly & Blackcapped pair. Caiques can often be kept tame even if they have a bird buddy. Caution should always be used when first introducing two birds, and people keeping more than one bird should be prepared in case the two do not get along. Caiques are not known for being good talkers, although some individuals do learn to say several words. When a caique does learn to speak, it is often in a robotic-sounding voice. They are not usually described as being noisy, but they do have shrill contact calls which sound like fire alarms. However, not all caiques develop this “fire alarm” call. Male and female caiques look very similar and a DNA test is the best way to determine a caique’s sex. Caiques are very smart birds that learn very quickly. Many love to learn to do and perform tricks and they tend to respond very well to clicker training. Black-capped Caique Mattie Sue Athan, in the book Guide to Companion Parrot Behavior, has the following to say about caiques: “The caique’s personality can be extremely complex, with the same bird sometimes exhibiting both aggression and fearfulness. A caique might suddenly exhibit fear of an inanimate object, especially a new one. Like a Scarlet Macaw, a caique might be sweet as pie when picked up, only to bite fiercely when put down. A caique can react intensely to a new hat, hair colour, or garment. Like the Scarlet Macaw, caiques are known for extreme intelligence. It’s always a challenge to stay one step ahead of these smart little birds. Each day will differ, as these birds will always be looking for new ways to have fun by frequently improvising new behaviours. They can be stubborn and difficult to distract from whatever quest they’re currently pursuing. Caiques can bond strongly to one person and have been seen to stalk family members [who are not] their favorite person. Frequent outings and handling by multiple individuals is especially beneficial to the gregarious caique personality.” According to “Good Parrotkeeping” by Robin Deutsch, while most parrots are left footed, caiques tend to be right footed. Hand-fed, juvenile caiques typically cost about $900 from a breeder and about $2000 from a pet store. Colour mutations in caiques are rare, but a small number of blue mutation caiques have been bred. One reportedly sold for $20 000! For more information on caiques, check out http://caiquecrazy.com/. The purpose of a newsletter is to provide Caption describing picture or graphic. “Caiques are often referred to as the “clowns” of the bird world.” Caique Facts Size: 23-25 cm, 145170 grams. Status in the Wild: Both species are listed as “Least Concern” by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. Thus, unlike many other parrot species, they are not considered endangered. Range: Black-capped Caiques occur in Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, French Guiana, Guyana, Peru, Suriname, and Venezuela. Whitebellied Caiques occur in Brazil, Peru and Bolivia. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Clicker Training 101 What is Clicker Training? Above: Clickers. Professional animal trainers have been using clicker training for decades to train their animals to perform a variety of useful or showy behaviours on cue. Clicker training is now becoming popular among exotic bird owners and there are books and videos out there specifically on clicker training pet parrots. Clicker training is an effective and humane way to train a parrot to do things like step up onto a hand, go back in her cage, pick up items with her beak, and fly to her owner when called. It is based on numerous studies on how animals learn and is centered on rewarding desired behaviours. The clickers often used by trainers are little plastic boxes that have a tab on them that produces a brief clicking noise when pressed. They are available at most pet stores. A clicker trainer will press the clicker as the animal performs a behaviour the trainer is looking for. The clicker serves as a marker that tells the animal what it just did was good and will earn it a reward in the future. However, before clicker training can start, the animal must first associate the clicker with a reward. Charging the Clicker Above: A Hyacinth Macaw from a bird show at the Minnesota Zoo eats a macadamia nut. Nuts, seeds and millet often make great training rewards. The process by which the animal learns to associate the clicker with a reward is often called charging the clicker. This is easy to do: first, click the clicker and then immediately offer the animal a reward. Repeat several times. Through this process, the bird will learn to associate the sound of the clicker with a reward. This will mean that the sound of the clicker will become reinforcing to the bird, and that the bird will become likely to repeat behaviours that earn her clicks. Food makes an excellent reward when charging the clicker, because food serves as a primary reinforcer for most animals. A primary reinforcer is something that will naturally act as a reinforcer, and will not need to be paired with anything else to act as such. A reinforcer is a consequence of a behaviour that increases the frequency of the behaviour. Animals obviously need food to survive, so animals will tend to repeat any actions that lead to them getting food. For example, dogs that are rewarded with tidbits of food for begging will generally continue to beg. A secondary reinforcer initially needs to be paired with a primary reinforcer if it is to act as a reinforcer. The clicker is an example. For it to have a reinforcing function, it first has to be paired with a primary reinforcer such as food. This is because the clicker sound alone holds no value for the animal. However, once a clicker has been “charged”, and paired with a primary reinforcer, it will then also become a reinforcer. There is really nothing magical about the sound of clickers. A word or another sound can be used in place of the clicker, so people who don’t like to use clickers can still apply the principles behind clicker training. However, there are a few reasons clickers are often used by animal trainers. First, the clicker doesn’t really sound like any sounds used in the English language. Therefore, the animal will not confuse any words for a click, and a click won’t be mistaken for any other sound. The clicker can also be used by the trainer to mark the exact behaviour she wants to reinforce. Sometimes, the behaviour a trainer wants to reinforce is only displayed for a second, and a short click works well as an immediate reinforcer. Using food or petting as a reinforcer may introduce a delay between the behaviour and the reinforcer, which will make training take a bit longer. One rule to follow when training is to always reinforce a desired behaviour The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA as soon as possible, because even a one second delay between the behaviour and the reinforcer will slow down the training process. Ideally, the behaviour should be reinforced as it occurs, and this is easy to do with a clicker or word. Other Considerations Before a training program starts, a trainer must decide what kind of primary reinforcer he wants to use. Food tends to work well. For parrots, sunflower seeds, bits of nut, bits of dried papaya and millet can all serve as excellent reinforcers. I tend to use sunflower seeds as reinforcers when training my birds. A good way to find out what type of treat is a bird’s favourite is to place several goodies in a dish and see which one the bird takes. When training, always follow a click with a treat of some sort. There are also several ways one can increase the value of food as a primary reinforcer. Quite often, whether or not an item acts as a reinforcer will depend on the general state the bird is in. For example, if a bird is hungry, food will act as a very strong reinforcer, but if he just ate, it will not. Likewise, if a bird has a dish of sunflower seeds in his cage at all times, sunflower seeds may not act as a reinforcer for him. Thus, to increase the value of food, hold training sessions at a time when the bird may be a bit hungry and take the food that will act as a training reward out of his regular diet. Do not, however, be too strict in controlling his food intake. Small birds in particular have high metabolisms and shouldn’t go too long without eating. Additionally, training a ravenous animal really isn’t much fun, for the trainer or animal. Target Training Once a reward has been chosen and the clicker has been charged, the training can begin. A very useful first behaviour to train a bird to do is to target. A bird that has been target trained will touch his beak to the end of a target stick that is presented to him. The target stick can then be used as a tool to train the bird to go into a carrier, step on a scale, go into his cage, or step up on a hand. Almost any item can be used as a target. Chopsticks, dowels, Popsicle sticks or spoons all work well. I like to use wooden spoons, because I can place the clicker in the spoon part (which goes in my hand), and I can click the clicker as soon as the bird touches the stick. To start target training the bird, place the end of the target stick in front of him. As soon as the parrot touches the stick with his beak, click the clicker and offer him a treat. Repeat several times. Then, gradually increase the distance that the bird has to move to get his beak to the clicker. Start so that he only has to move his head a bit to touch the stick. Then, move the stick so he has to lean forward to touch it, and then move it so he has to take a step to touch it and so on. Many birds, when being target trained, will initially nip the stick to investigate it. However, some birds may be a bit wary or even scared of the stick. If that happens, try changing the type of stick used. For example, use a shorter or duller-coloured stick. If that doesn’t work, place the stick some distance away from the bird – as far as it takes so that the bird shows no fear. Then, start rewarding the bird for merely looking at the stick, even if briefly. Click as the bird looks towards the stick and then offer him a treat. Repeat several times and slowly increase the criteria required for a click. Move from getting him to look at Common Clicker Training Terms Reinforcement: a term used by behaviour analysts and clicker trainers for a process that increases the frequency of a behaviour. Positive Reinforcement: adding a pleasant stimulus to increase the frequency of a behaviour. For example, giving a parrot a sunflower seed when she steps up on a hand would likely increase the chance of the bird stepping up in the future. Therefore, giving the parrot a sunflower seed in return for stepping up would be an example of positive reinforcement. Negative Reinforcement: This involves taking away an aversive stimulus in order to increase the frequency of a behaviour. For example, pushing a parrot on the chest to get him to step up more reliably would be an example of training using negative reinforcement. This is because the negative stimulus (being pushed on the chest) stops once the parrot steps up. Note in the above definitions that “positive” refers to adding something and “negative” refers to taking something away. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Common Clicker Training Terms Continued… Punishment: To behavior analysts, “punishment” refers to any consequence that decreases the frequency of a behaviour. Positive Punishment: Adding an aversive stimulus after a certain behaviour to decrease the frequency of that behaviour. For example, if a pet dog avoids taking food off the counter because he was shocked the last time he did, then he learned to not take food off of the table via “positive punishment.” Negative Punishment: Removing a valued stimulus (such as food) to decrease a specific behaviour. An example of negative punishment would be withdrawing petting and attention to a dog when it jumps up on people. The dog may learn not to jump up because he then won’t receive the attention he wants. Again, note that in the above definitions, “positive” refers to adding something and “negative” refers removing something. stick (at progressively shorter distances), to where he has to lean a bit towards the stick, to where he actually has to touch the stick. If the bird starts to show any fear, move the stick a bit farther away. I had to use this type of gradual desensitization to teach my Red-lored Amazon, Ripley, to touch a Popsicle stick. Some birds will grab the target stick and hang on. If that happens, just gently twist the stick out of the bird’s mouth and give him a treat as soon he lets go. If the bird is tenaciously holding the stick and will not let go even if the stick is twisted, just wait and click and treat the second he lets go of the stick. This behaviour often stops once the bird figures out that he just needs to nip the stick lightly to get a click and a treat. Once a bird has learned to touch a target stick reliably, even if he has to move around to get to it, he can be taught to perform many other behaviours on cue. For instance, the target stick can be used to get him to go into a carrier. Initially, use the target stick to get the bird to go close to the carrier, then towards the door of the carrier, and then into the carrier. Say something like, “Go In,” each time he goes into the carrier. A similar technique can be used to train a parrot to go back into a cage on cue. To ensure that the parrot will go into the cage or carrier reliably, do not shut him in there the first few times he goes in on his own. Gradually phase out the use of the target stick by giving a reliable cue word (like “Go In”) each time he enters the cage or carrier on his own. Soon, he may go in the cage or carrier upon hearing the cue, “Go In.” Step Up Once a bird has been target-trained, it is simple to teach him to step up either on a hand or a hand-held perch. Just put your hand (or arm, for a large bird) in front of the bird and place the target stick where the bird has to lean forward over your arm to reach it. If the bird seems reluctant to do this, then gradually get him to go closer to your arm, until he finally has to step up on it to reach the stick. Step up can also be trained without a target stick. Some birds may simply step up on your hand or arm if it’s placed in front of them. Reward the bird (click and treat) once he does this and repeat a few times. Even when the bird is stepping up reliably, be sure to still reward him frequently, with praise and/or treats. If the bird does not step up on a hand when it is presented, reward any gradual steps he takes towards stepping up. For example, click and treat if he merely moves towards your hand, and then gradually increase the criteria he has to meet to be rewarded. Move from having the bird move towards your hand, to placing a foot on your hand, to stepping right up on your hand. Do not push the bird in the chest to get him to step up, especially if he’s nervous or has had bad experiences with people. That may make him fear hands. Instead, teach him that stepping up on hands leads to positive outcomes. Other Behaviours to Train Stepping up on cue and target training are two very useful behaviours to teach a bird. It’s also simple to train most birds to ring a bell and turn around on cue. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA A “turn around” can be trained with or without the use of a target stick. To train this without a target stick, start clicking and treating when the bird looks either to the left or right (depending on the direction chosen). Try getting him to move his head by wiggling your fingers or another interesting object in a way that will get him to move his head. Once he does this frequently, start to click and treat when he moves his whole body sideways, and then finally when he turns around. Once he turns around reliably, add a cue. For instance, say, “Turn around,” when he does this, and soon, he will know to turn around on cue. To teach a turn around with a target stick, just move the target stick in such a way that the bird has to turn around to keep it in his view. Say the words, “turn around” as you do this. When using a target stick to teach a behaviour like this, do start to fade the use of the target as soon as possible. Keep using the vocal cue, but start to make the target stick shorter and shorter until the bird responds only to a hand and vocal signal. Where to train and for how long? When a bird is first learning a new behaviour, start his training sessions in a quiet area that is free of distractions. This will make it easier for both person and bird to focus on the task at hand. Once the bird has started to understand what is being asked of him, start to practice in different locations. Frequently, if a bird is taught to respond to a certain cue in only one location, Many dogs who are taught to sit, heel, and come on cue in an obedience class will only respond well in the class environment unless the owner practices with the dog in a variety of locations. Gradually increase the complexity of the environment when teaching an animal to respond to a cue in a variety of situations. For example, start in a quiet area, then in an area with a TV on, and then in an area with other people around, and so on. Most training sessions should be relatively short, but the exact length of time will vary depending on the bird. Initially start with very short (five minute) sessions, and gradually increase their length. Stop when the bird starts to seem uninterested and then use a slightly shorter session next time. The key is to stop before the bird starts to become bored. Try to end all training sessions on a positive note, even if this involves asking the bird to do something very simple. Additionally, keep training sessions positive. If the trainer starts to become frustrated with the animal, the animal may not want to participate in the future. Common Misconceptions Many people object to clicker training (or training involving treats) because it seems similar to bribing. Done properly, clicker training rarely involves bribing the animal. This is because bribing involves showing an animal a treat before if performs the behaviour the trainer wants. Clicker training involves giving the animal a treat after he performs a desired behaviour. On occasion, a trainer may try to lure an animal into a desired place or position with a treat, but overall, clicker training need not involve bribing the animal very often. Clicker training also does not involve spoiling an animal (as many think it does), nor Extinction If a behaviour is to continue to occur, it must at least sometimes be reinforced. The weakening of a behaviour as a result of non-reinforcement is called “extinction.” Not reinforcing unwanted behaviours (such as screaming) can eventually diminish them. For example, if one does not want a parrot to scream, the screaming should not be reinforced with attention of food. Note that a previously reinforced behaviour may actually initially increase once it is not reinforced. This is called an “extinction burst.” After the extinction burst, the behaviour may then begin to decrease in frequency, as long as it is never reinforced. To diminish an unwanted behaviour even faster one can also reinforce a behaviour that is incompatible with the unwanted behaviour. To decrease a parrot’s screaming, for example, one can cease reinforcing the screaming while reinforcing other sounds the bird makes, such as whistling or talking. After all, a bird cannot talk and scream at the exact same time. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA On the use of Aversives Clicker training uses positive reinforcement to teach animals new things. Positive reinforcement is considered superior to techniques that use aversive stimuli (i.e. positive punishment and negative reinforcement) by behaviour analysts. This is because the use of aversives can bring along unwanted side effects, such as fear and aggression. This is especially true for parrots, as wild animals seem less tolerant of aversive training techniques than domestics like dogs or horses. Animals also rend to learn best when a consequence immediately follows a behaviour. Many people who use positive punishment on pets do not use it appropriately, which can confuse and frighten the pet. An example would be removing a bird from a perch and sticking her in a box because she was screaming. By the time the bird gets to the box, she will have forgot about the screaming. For more on this, go to: http://www.thegabrielfoun dation.org/pdffiles/punish ment.pdf will it necessarily make a bird (or dog) beg from the table. The animal is actually asked to perform a specific behaviour to get a treat, and most clicker trainers are careful not to reward behaviours they do not want to see. For example, if one does not want an animal to beg for food, or squawk for attention, then these behaviours should never be rewarded with treats or attention. It is also not true that a person must always have a clicker and treats on hand to get the animal to respond to certain cues. The clicker is most important when the animal is first learning about how to behave. Many trainers only use the clicker (and the treats) when the animal is learning. It is, however, prudent to frequently reward any behaviour one wants an animal to keep displaying. Personally, I only use the clicker when teaching an animal something and don’t bother with it once the animal does what I want reliably. I still frequently give my birds treats for stepping up, and my dogs always get praise, petting or treats when they come back to me when called when they are at the dog park. The result is that the dogs are very reliable when it comes to coming to me on cue. Finally, many people think that one must only use food as a reward when clicker training. That isn’t necessarily true. Food is often used because it’s something all animals need and it can often be delivered very quickly, which means that more repetitions can be done in a session. or petting will be useful reinforcers for that animal. In fact, my cockatoo will sometimes refuse to take a piece of food from me during a training session and will bow his head to me. That’s his way of requesting that I stroke his head, which I will do for him. Further Resources There are many books, websites, and videos out there for people who want to learn more about training with positive reinforcement. I really like “Clicker Training for Birds,” by Melinda Johnson. This book gives detailed instructions on clicker training birds to do a variety of things and it gives advice on solving parrot behaviour problems using the clicker. All technical terms are also defined very clearly. If you have a flighted bird and want to train her various flight commands (such as to fly to you on cue, or to fly to a spot being pointed at and so on) try out “Breaking Bad Habits in Parrots,” by Greg Glendell. This book has information on training a flighted bird. The books, magazine, blog and videos by Barbara Heideinreich are also an excellent resource on training animals using positive reinforcement. Go to www.goodbirdinc.com for more information. However, if an animal does increase the frequency of a certain behaviour if it is praised or petted for doing so, then praise Above: Ripley the Red-lored Amazon, touches a target stick. The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Cape Parrot Conservation “uPholi” want a forest? Rescuing Africa’s most endangered parrot from extinction by Steve Boyes of Percy FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology December 16, 2011 The Cape Parrot is one of the most endangered bird species in South Africa with less than 1,000 individuals remaining in the wild. Most of the remaining wild population are infected by and dying from a Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease epidemic that erupts during early winter each year. Early cold snaps and mild droughts escalate this problem with devastating effects on population levels. Up until 2008, when rats native to Christmas Island went extinct after being exposed to new pathogens, disease had not been proven to cause any extinctions. Alarmingly, Cape parrots are now succumbing to an endemic virus that attacks when their body condition declines, their immune systems begin to falter, and they naturally start molting. They are simply too weak to combat this “doomsday virus” that has always been with the. How do we save this intelligent parrot from extinction? How do we help this parrot help itself? Read about them and what people are doing to rescue, conserve and defend one of the world’s most enigmatic birds. “uPholi” is the nickname for the Cape parrot (Poicephalus robustus) or isiKhwenene (the local isiXhosa name). Just the same as “Polly want a cracker!”, “uPholi” wants a forest because local South Africans have busied themselves over the last 350 years selectively removing almost all the large hardwoods (most especially Podocarpus yellowwoods) from all remaining Afromontane forest patches. Starting in the early 1600s in the Cape of Good Hope, these vulnerable forest patches were decimated and have never been given adequate opportunity to recover. For hundreds of years, logging was intensive with millions upon millions of railway sleepers and mining timbers being manufactured. Harvesting of yellowwood trees and other depleted hardwoods continues today in these forests. Most people know about the popular African Grey parrots of central and western Africa, but very few people know about Africa’s most endangered parrot, South Africa’s Cape parrot. Today, there could be as few as 800 Cape parrots remaining in the wild and they are considered Critically Endangered due to continued habitat loss, poor nesting success due to lack of nest cavities, a severe Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease epidemic, historical persecution as a crop pest, and illegal capture for the wild-caught bird trade. If Africa was to lose this “green and gold” ambassador of some of our last-remaining Afromontane forest patches, it would be a sign of very bad times to come. We would have lost one of the last Afromontane endemics clinging onto these forests through their own ingenuity and collective intelligence. Intensive logging in their forest habitat, persecution (e.g. being shot or caught in nets and clubbed to death), nest poaching and mistnetting adults for the wild-caught bird trade, and very little or no conservation intervention, has left the Cape Parrot in ruins with an ageing populations in declining physical condition. We need to intervene now A beautiful Cape parrot breeding pair in the morning light - future of the species. We need to provide suitable nesting sites by erecting 100s more nest boxes. (Rodnick Biljon/Cape Parrot Project) “The Cape Parrot is one of the most endangered bird species in South Africa with less than 1,000 individuals remaining in the wild.” The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA Cape Parrot, Poicephalus robustus Size: 34 cm, 260-330 g. Appearance: Head and neck feathers pale olivebrown, edged with darker brown. Back, wings, rump and underparts green with black, legs and bend of wing orange, black/brown tail. Females have an orange band across the crown; males lack this. Range: Endemic to east South Africa. Two disjunct populations: one in the far northeast, one in the southeast. Aviculture: Very rare. As pets they are reportedly quiet and affectionate. Some are excellent talkers. Taxonomy: The species currently referred to as the Brown-necked Parrot (Poicephalus fuscicollis fuscicollis) and the Greyheaded or “UnCape Parrot (Poicephalus fuscicollis suahelicus) used to be classified as Cape Parrots. Most “Cape Parrots” in Canada are actually Grey-headed Parrots. The bird on the front of the newsletter is a Grey-headed (Uncape) Parrot. condition. We need to intervene now and stimulate positive change for Cape parrots in the wild. into the wild. We had a fight on our hands and began fundraising to support the effort. In 2009, we initiated the Cape Parrot Project in an effort to save this endemic species from extinction. Preliminary surveys established that the observed body condition of Cape parrots in the southernmost part of their distribution has been declining for at least 5 years. In March that year, we received over 30 photographs of Cape parrots with symptoms of advanced beak and feather disease infection from concerned South Africans who had been photographing Cape parrots feeding in their pecan trees for many years and never seen anything like this before. This news was shocking and it has been our focus ever since to understand the nature of this apparently severe threat to their persistence in the wild. A grant from the National Geographic Society Conservation Trust enabled us to undertake much needed research into the threat posed by this little-known circovirus. Our findings were absolutely shocking with a 50% infection rate in 2010 and a staggering 100% infection rate in four times as many blood samples this year. By March, the general public started handing in dead and dying Cape parrots that needed to be rehabilitated for over 6 months before release back Today, we are reacting as strongly as possible to this threat, investing in the DNA sequencing of all viral strains that we encounter and contributing towards the development of a suitable vaccine for application in the wild. In addition, we are looking at establishing a disease-free Cape parrot population in forest patches where they went locally extinct around 150 years ago. Our ongoing research has linked these disease outbreaks to a lack of suitable food resources between January and March each year when there is literally nothing for the parrots to feed on. The severe drought this year resulted in infection rates escalating due to starvation at population level. Up to 10% of the local population wwas estimated to have died. In 2012, we will be testing the application of supplementary feeding decks to ensure that the parrots have sufficient food to combat the virus and avoid eating exotic, potentially poisonous food resources like unripe pecan nuts from the US, cherries from Mexico, plums from Japan, and syringa fruits from India. We need to help this parrot help itself by providing supplementary food resources within the next 5-10 years. Young male Cape parrot roosting in a wild plum tree during the heat of the day (Rodnick Biljon/Cape Parrot Project) The Parrot Post – Newsletter of the EPPA African Parrots The Cape Parrot is in the genus Poicephalus. They are not common as pets but several other members of the genus Poicephalus are. They include: ● Senegal Parrot (P. senegalus) ● Meyer’s Parrot (P. meyeri) ● Red-bellied Parrot (P. rufiventris) ● Jardine’s Parrot (P. gulielmi) ● Brown-headed Parrot (P. crytoxanthus) ● Grey-headed Parrot (P. fuscicollis) Other members of the genus Poicephalus include the Rüppell’s Parrot (P. rueppelli), the Yellow-fronted Parrot (P. flavifrons), and the Niam-niam Parrot (P. crassus). The other parrots found in Africa include the nine species of lovebird (Agapornis), although the Madagascar Lovebird occurs only on Madagascar. Ringneck Parakeets (Psittacula krameri) also occur in Africa, as do African Grey Parrots (Psittacus erithacus). Madagascar and the Seychelles are home to Greater and Lesser Vasa Parrots (Coracopsis vasa and C. nigra). We are not just studying the virus and its relationship to food resources - we are also planting over 25,000 indigenous trees in degraded Afromontane forest patches and “Cape Parrot orchards” across the Amathole mountain range, which has the largest-remaining Cape Parrot population. The Cape Parrot orchards are made up of 500-1,000 indigenous trees that provide fruit for parrots within 7-10 years. In order to support all this tree-planting we launched the “iziKhwenene Project” that contracts local communities to grow, plant and take care of the all indigenous trees planted as part of this project. We pay whole communities $2 per tree that survives every 6 months, planting teams weekly wages to plant these trees, and individuals R10 per saplings grown within our Community Nursery Program. The iziKhwenene Project aims to position local communities as “Forest Custodians” supported by the Wild Bird Trust and corporate sponsors. In addition to planting thousands of trees, the Cape Parrot Project is also erecting 600 Cape Parrot nest boxes to supplement the shortage of suitable nest cavities for Cape Parrot breeding pairs and other cavity-nesting species. We have a tough 10 years ahead of us before the food orchards are producing fruits for the parrots between January and March. Until then we must push to get every Cape Parrot that falls ill to beak and feather disease rehabilitated and back into the wild. We must provide safe, warm nest boxes and supplementary feeding decks until such time as the forests have been restored. Our work rehabilitating four Cape Parrots from the ravages of beak and feather disease demonstrated an instant reaction to the yellowwood fruits we were feeding them. All four parrots began to recover more rapidly from the infection and started to put on weight for the first time, thus supporting research that put forward that yellowwood fruits have very strong anti-microbial activity when ingested. It seems as if due to the lack of this fruit in their diet Cape Parrots are just not strong enough to fight off the ravages of this disease, which, similar to influenza in the human population, has probably been in the wild Cape Parrot population for a very long time, but only at very much lower levels. A Senior Producer from National Geographic Missions Media, Neil Gelinas, visited the Cape Parrot Project for a few weeks and was fortunate enough to film the release of the four rehabilitated Cape Parrots back into the wild: “Dead birds flying!” Hopefully there will soon be a short video clip to share with the world? For more informaction, check out http://www.parrots.org/marcom/cap es/index.html Story from: http://newswatch.nationalgeographi c.com/2011/12/16/upholi-want-aforest-rescuing-africas-mostendangered-parrot-from-extinction/ Cape parrot feeding on exotic syringa berries. These berries are reputed to be poisonous to birds and monkeys. Cape parrots seem to be able to metabolize these poisons, but at what cost? (Rodnick Biljon/Cape Parrot Project)