memorandum - The Knit With
Transcription
memorandum - The Knit With
MEMORANDUM ____________________________________ TO: Yarn Recall File FROM: JFC SUBJECT: Identified Problems With KFI’s July Test Reports DATE: 2 November, 2006 Numerous calls and e-mails concerning the cashmere content of the cashmerino yarns prompt publication of the July test reports received from Knitting Fever, Inc. These same reports are available for inspection in-store. Our own extensive tests and investigations removes all doubts about the zero cashmere content of the cashmerino yarns distributed to this store by KFI. Analysis of these four reports does not change that conclusion. The TFT ( Ilkley ) Test Report Major problem with this report is the result: the analysis finds only a non specific and undefined “ quantity of cashmere”. An undefined quantity of cashmere is not 12% or any other specific percentage. Other problems are: # # # Only Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran was tested ( both Cashmerino Baby and Chunky have been analyzed to have a zero cashmere content as well ); The tested yarn was not identified by dyelot – the test result can not be duplicated by another lab; The test was conducted on a warehouse sample almost a full month after this problem first became known. The Laboratorio Analisi Prove e Ricerche Tessile ( Primo Brachi ) Report This report it NOT an analysis of any finished cashmerino yarn; specifically the report analyzes a yarn with a composition of 55% cashmere and 45% wool. A remote possibility exists that the analysis is of component sliver – fibre before spinning into a finished cashmerino yarn. The Rapporto Di Prova No. 050583 ( Laboratorio Accreditato No. 0331 ITS ) Report The major problems with the two test results given here are: # # # # The report is an analysis of pre-spun fibre ( tops ) with a cashmere quality ( 15. 5 microns ) which is not what KFI claims is the cashmerinos ( spun with 19 micron cashmere ); The Italian lab accredited since May 2001 as No. 0331, G. R. Biochemilab SAS di Albano Rosa & Co. has repudiated this report – the report was not issued by lab No. 0331 or after May, 2001; The Italian authority responsible for accrediting laboratories has never accredited any lab under the ITS name; Debenhams, the British department store chain mentioned at the bottom of the report, has no record of receiving this report and would not permit the Debenhams name to be used in this way by any testing lab. ( con tin u ed n ext pa g e ) The Quality Control Laboratory Reports Quality Control Laboratory issued a report dated on 20 June; the problems with this report are: # # # # # The report is not signed; The lab is not identified by address; The yarn analyzed is not identified either by name or dyelot ( only color numbers are stated ); The test can not be duplicated by another lab; The analysis of the pink yarn indicates a cashmere content of 13.3% – making the yarn more expensive to produce than the Debbie Bliss cashmerinos ( labeled cashmere content: 12% ). Julie Smith, the fibre analyst operating as Quality Control Laboratory, has issued a letter giving additional and highly pertinent facts about this report, including: # # # # # Quality Control Laboratory is not authorized to provide authoritative test reports; The 20 June test was performed merely as a personal favor for a friend of a friend; Quality Control told KFI’s affiliate in England to test the yarns in the USA ans with Ken Langley; The 20 June test was performed on small wraps – not full balls – of yarn; It took KFI’s affiliate in England more than a full month to provide full balls of yarn suitable for testing. Below are: # # # # # # # The 7 July, 2006 report of TFT The 3 January, 2006 test report of Laboratorio di Analisi ( Primo Brachi ) The undated Rapporto di Prova The 20 September, 2006 correspondence from SINAL and 15 September 2006 Memo from Lab No. 0331; The 11 October, 2006 correspondence from Debenhams. The 20 June, 2006 Test Certificate of Quality Control Laboratory; The 21 September, 2006 letter from Quality Control Laboratory. Quality Control Laboratory Contact: Julie Smith 38 Birchwood Rd. Utley Keighley West Yorks. BD20 6BX Mobile No. 07976 538730 Fax: 01274 747009 21st September 2006 Dear Mr. Casale, I am writing to confirm that Quality Control Laboratory is not a public testing service and I do not advertise it as such. I am not CCMI accredited and therefore cannot provide official results for fibre analysis. The analysis I performed on 20th June 2006 was done on an informal basis as a favour for a friend of a friend. I looked at three small wraps of yarn and not full balls. About a month later I was able to look at full balls of yarn. Before issuing my test certificate on 20th June I advised Designer Yarns to contact Ken Langley, whom I have found to be very reliable in the past, as the goods were destined for the USA and official certification would probably be required. Yours sincerely, JULIE SMITH