PDF version - American Gem Trade Association
Transcription
PDF version - American Gem Trade Association
PRISM Volume 1 2012 Southland’s Regina King SPECI A L ED ITION 2012 1 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 AGTA BOARD OF DIRECTORS PR E SIDEN T Benjamin Hackman Intercolor, Inc. M E M B E R S H I P B E N E F I T S The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of United States and Canadian gemstone VICE PR E SIDEN TS Robert Bentley Robert Bentley Company, Inc. professionals dedicated to promoting awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls. Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,100 Members Kambiz Sabouri Gem 2000, Inc. SECR ETA RY John Bachman John M. Bachman, Inc. TR E A S U R E R Sampat Poddar Byrex Gems, Inc. representing leading colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers, designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals. AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone enhancements. Membership provides exclusive benefits and services: Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important DIR ECTOR S Peter Bazar Imperial-Deltah, Inc. annual events in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, and AGTA Pavilions at the JA New York Show Ruben Bindra B & B Fine Gems & The Smart Jewelry Show in Chicago. Sushil Goyal Liberty Gems, Inc. gain valuable knowledge from our GemFair Tucson Seminar Betty Sue King King’s Ransom Members can also access our AGTA Online Community and DVD and eLearning Platform. Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry, gemstone & jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism. Bill Larson Pala International, Inc. Members are featured in the printed AGTA Source Directory and online version. This is a powerful tool that gives access Glenn Lehrer Lehrer Designs, Inc. to a valuable network of fellow gemstone professionals. Over Gerry Manning Manning International, Inc. Members have access to leading industry programs. These 15,000 copies are distributed! programs include Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express® Shipping, FedEx Declared Value, FedEx Kinko’s, Niveet Nagpal Omi Gems, Inc. Joe Orlando Quality Gold, Inc. Ambrish Sethi Manak Jewels Lois Wacholtz Christopher’s Fine Jewelry John “Bear” Williams Bear Essentials Cynthia Renée Cynthia Renée Company PA S T P R E S I D E N T Barbara Lawrence CHIEF E X ECUTI V E OFFICER Douglas K. Hucker American Gem Trade Association GE Money Luxury Program, Association Health Programs, the Office Depot: Taking Care of Business program and car rental services through Avis and Budget.p The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from the competition. PR ISM is distributed quarterly. Fo r f u r t h e r i n fo r m a t io n o r t o a d ve r t i s e , ple a s e c o nt a c t : Joshua Garcia American Gem Trade Association 3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234 800-972-1162 214-742-7334 FAX Cover: 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards™- winning earrings by Mark Schneider Design and necklace by Belle Brooke Designs, Inc. This Page: 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards™- winning locket by Todd Reed, Inc. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 2 FROM THE PRESIDENT Greetings: For the past 30 years, AGTA has been in the forefront of the colored gemstone and pearl industry. I have been involved with the AGTA since its inception. With my long association as a Member, a Board Member and now President, I can say with confidence that our Association is extremely fortunate to have a dedicated Board of Directors and the best professional Staff. We have worked diligently to accomplish the following: 1. Grow and sustain AGTA GemFair™ Tucson as the world’s premier colored gemstone trade show. 2. Improve AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas with the move to Mandalay Bay and attracting more buyers from the manufacturing and designer pavilions to buy from our Members at the show. 3. Increase our Membership. While other associations are struggling, we continue to see growth. 4. Remain fiscally sound and responsible to our Membership. 5. Improve our Source Directory by developing an accessible online Source Directory that is updated bi-monthly and enhanced www.agta.org. Both serve as marketing tools in the most technologically “friendly” format. We have spent 2011 building programs to help grow your colored gemstone business. With the new AGTA Online Community, you can link to a wealth of knowledge and information from fellow AGTA Members. Train your staff with five free subscriptions to the AGTA eLearning Platform with your membership. Moving forward, AGTA is planning to dedicate significant resources to promote the importance of buying from AGTA Members. AGTA Members set themselves apart from the competition by abiding by the strictest Code of Ethics and disclosure in the industry. We will continue to convey this message to your customers and potential customers. We have an extensive trade marketing campaign planned for our wholesale members, along with a fully customizable campaign for our retail members to use in their local markets. We are also gearing up for production of the biannual AGTA Source Directory in 2012, which is the key sourcing directory for many industry buyers. Active participation, involvement in Committees and the Board, has allowed our Association to move forward. I would like to encourage all AGTA Members to get more involved, and help us to reinforce our message that AGTA is The Authority in Color™. As my term as President comes to an end. I want to thank my fellow Board Members and Committee Members for all of their time and effort in making AGTA what it is today. I will continue to serve the Board as the Past President and as the Chairman for the Nominations Committee. Have a wonderful 2012!p All the best, Benjamin Hackman President 3 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 FROM THE CEO In December, the American Gem Trade Association issued a press release, in conjunction with several other jewelry industry trade groups drawing attention to our concerns over the broad proliferation in the marketplace of so called “lead glass-filled rubies.” The product in question is commercial to lower grade corundum that, without treatment, cannot effectively be fashioned into a polished stone. Infusing significant amounts of lead glass into the porous structure of the corundum provides the requisite stability for the material to be cut and polished. This material has been widely distributed throughout the market, and in many cases it has been presented as “ruby” without the required disclosure of its particular nature and the necessity for special care to prevent damage to the material. The confusion over this material, whether it was sold without proper disclosure or when properly disclosed, was exacerbated by a lack of consensus in the industry over proper nomenclature to describe it. More importantly, because of the inherent instability of the lead glass filler, the need for additional information regarding special care requirements became of paramount concern. The AGTA Gemological and Industry Rules Committee, proposed nomenclature to the Board of Directors and it was accepted that AGTA will require its Members to refer to the material only as “lead glass-filled composite ruby.” In this case, the term “composite” has specific meaning; a product made of disparate parts or elements in its construction. In the case of red material, the disparate components are corundum and lead glass, to form the composite. In addition, with composite materials, there is special emphasis on the need to address special care requirements with the purchaser. In this case those special care requirements are: “avoid household chemicals, heat, abrasives, ultrasonic and sudden shocks.” The rationale behind this realignment of nomenclature is both a concern for clear communication throughout the supply chain and the need to make certain that the ultimate consumer is getting accurate and sufficient information with which to make an informed buying decision. United States Federal Trade Commission Guidelines states a material must have sufficient beauty, rarity and durability to qualify as a gemstone. Since this “composite” material, while it can be quite attractive, has neither the requisite rarity (as it is very abundant) nor the required durability for it to be considered comparable to either a natural ruby or a natural ruby treated by more conventional means, it was decided to adopt the aforementioned nomenclature. For more information about special care requirements as well as the appropriate tag codes for lead glass-filled rubies, please visit www.agta.org and view the Gemstone Information Manual at http://www.agta.org/gemstones/agta-gim/index.html. The AGTA will be carefully scrutinizing offerings of this product at our GemFair Tucson and our other trade shows. If you are working with a dealer who is not an AGTA Member, please make sure to ask the appropriate questions about whether or not the ruby you are considering purchasing has been lead glass-filled. We all want to have the most rewarding and profitable experience we can at AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, the most wonderful venue at a fantastic time of year. That experience needs to be supported by the most comfortable buying experience possible and that begins with the comfort level our buyers have in making their purchases in full confidence. Full and complete disclosure and a proper presentation of our gemstones remains a foundation upon which our Association was built. We look forward to seeing you in Tucson!p Sincerely, Douglas K. Hucker Chief Executive Officer AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 4 5 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 FROM THE SPECTRUM CHAIR Congratulations to our 28th Annual AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Winners! We are excited to introduce this year’s winners! With over 450 entries, our judges had their work cut out for them! I would like to extend my sincere appreciation to our judges: metalsmith Klaus Burgel, master goldsmith Sylvain Chervin of Carvin French, Cindy Edelstein of the Jewelers Resource Bureau, Patricia Faber of Aaron Faber Gallery and Clay Zava of Zava Master Cuts for their time and dedication to this spectacular event. Each entry is painstakingly judged on a solid criterion which includes overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, exciting use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad-base consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones. The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ brings together the most comprehensive display of color. The categories for the 28th annual AGTA Spectrum Awards™ were Bridal Wear, Business/Day Wear, Classical, Evening Wear and Men’s Wear. Fashion Forward Honors recognizes trend-setting jewelry. Manufacturing Honors recognizes jewelry appropriate to be manufactured in production quantities. Platinum Honors™, sponsored by Platinum Guild International, recognizes outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or pearl jewelry in the five Spectrum Awards categories and for the Best Use of Color and Platinum. Platinum Honors™ has added: Entry Platinum Honors – Bridal Wear under $2,500 (semi-mount only), Platinum Honors Innovation – Classical under $3,500 and Platinum Honors Innovation – Day Wear under $2,000. (all prices retail). New this year, we are pleased to introduce Palladium Prestige™, sponsored by Palladium Alliance International, which recognizes outstanding use of palladium in colored gemstone and/ or pearl jewelry in the five Spectrum Awards categories and for the Best Use of Color and Palladium. The AGTA Cutting Edge Awards honor excellence and creativity of the lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones, cultured pearls and carvings. Categories include: Classic Gemstones, All Other Faceted Gemstones, Phenomenal Gemstones, Pairs & Suites, Innovative Faceting and Carving. What continues to set this competition apart is the annual AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Media Day which features all of the jewelry and gemstone submissions, creating a win-win situation for all who participate. Attendees include fashion industry noteables from the trade and consumer press, stylists, and bloggers. Publications represented this year included Vogue, W, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, Women’s Wear Daily, Marie Claire, Essence, Smart Money and many more. The Editors’ Choice Award is selected by the Media Day attendees. Winning entries will be displayed during the 2012 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson to be held January 31 – February 5 at the Tucson Convention Center in Tucson, Arizona. Please join us for this year’s AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Gala where recipients will be recognized. The event starts at 7:00 pm Saturday, February 4. Tickets for the gala are $100 and cocktail attire is encouraged. New for this year, is the Buyer’s Choice Awards. Make sure to stop by and vote at the Spectrum display for your favorite winning design. Again, congratulations to all of winners. And a huge thank you to the Spectrum Awards Committee, Platinum Guild International, Palladium Alliance International, Last Word Communications and the AGTA Staff. Kudos to all! Enjoy this Special Edition issue of Prism!p Robert Bentley AGTA Spectrum Awards Committe Chair AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 6 Best of Show & Editors’ Choice Todd Reed Todd Reed, Inc. Moonstone, grey and white Diamonds and Sapphire encrusted locket in palladium and 22K yellow gold. Inside reveals a Moldavite Buddha. Best Use of Color Deirdre Featherstone Featherstone Design Earrings with removable Opal enhancers, blue Zircons, Tanzanites, Paraiba Tourmalines and Diamonds in platinum. WINNERS The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition is considered the most respected and prestigious contest in the jewelry design industry. The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ honors, recognizes and promotes designers whose work utilizes natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls in finished fine jewelry design. It has become the benchmark for jewelry designers striving to gain recognition for their work. In 1991, the AGTA created the Cutting Edge Awards to honor creativity in lapidary arts, including faceted gemstones, pearls and carvings. Both are a true contest of workmanship, creativity and innovation. Winners set the standards of excellence for our entire industry. The AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition has launched trends, increased visibility for designer jewelry, and inspired great innovation in use of color and materials. The following pages showcase the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winning pieces. Congratulations to all of our winners!p 7 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 Best Use of Palladium & Color Fashion Forward Dennis de Jonghe Dennis de Jonghe Aquamarine, Moonstone, Diamond & Pearl pendant in Palladium. Belle Brooke Barer Belle Brooke Designs, Inc. Blue Chalcedony and Diamond necklace in oxidized sterling silver. Best Use of Platinum & Color Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry Aquamarine & Diamond ring in Platinum. Best Use of Pearls Anil Maloo Baggins, Inc. Cultured South Sea Pearls earrings encrusted with light cognac Diamonds in 18K white gold and black rhodium. Editors’ Choice Manya Tessler Manya & Roumen Carved black Jade fish ring accented with fire Opals in 18K yellow gold. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 8 BRIDAL 1st Place Maria Canale Richard Krementz Gemstones Lace ring with blue Sapphire and Diamonds in platinum. Manufacturing Honors Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Tahitian Pearls, freshwater Pearls, white and black Diamond platinum earrings. Platinum Honors James Currens J.W. Currens, Inc. Ruby and Diamond ring in platinum. 9 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 2nd Place Erica Courtney Erica Courtney 18K yellow gold earrings with Zultanite, demantoid Garnets & Diamonds. Honorable Mention Leonard McCue L.A.M. Goldsmiths Hearts and Arrows ring with a Moonstone and Diamonds in platinum. Entry Platinum Innovation Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Ring in platinum with Sapphire and Diamonds. 3rd Place Craig Slavens AuRTWORK Jewelry Black and white Diamond necklace in platinum and 18K yellow gold. Honorable Mention Yehouda Saketkhou Yael Designs Baroness earrings featuring Tanzanites and Diamonds. Palladium Prestige Award Mirjam Butz-Brown Adorn Gallery Mother-of-Pearl, Diamond and Amethyst earrings in palladium and 14K yellow gold. No other collection features such a magnificent spectrum of fine, one-of-a-kind gems. From alexandrtite to zircon and everything in between, we have a color for every passion... and a passion for every color. Call us when you want the extraordinary. Richard Krementz Gemstones We bring you the world’s most dramatic colors.® AGTA Gemfair Booth 811 www.richard krementz gemstones.com 800-835-3436 Follow our spectrum on AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 10 B U S I N ES S DAY W E A R 1st Place Belle Brooke Barer Belle Brooke Designs, Inc. Blue Chalcedony and Diamond necklace in oxidized sterling silver. 2nd Place Michele Mercaldo Michele Mercaldo Contemporary Jewelry Pink Sapphire and Diamond ring in palladium. 3rd Place Heather Moore Heather B. Moore, Inc. I Love You More than the the Stars, the Moon and the Sun yellow gold necklace with a rubellite Tourmaline and Diamonds. Honorable Mention Sylva Yepremian Sylva & Cie. Emerald and Diamond cross pendant in 18K yellow gold. Manufacturing Honors Norman Turgeon Turgeon-Raine Jewellers 18K rose gold earrings with Amethysts, chrome Tourmalines and Diamonds. Platinum Honors Leon Mege Leon Mege, Inc. Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond ring in platinum. 11 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Honorable Mention Pamela Froman Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry Crushed Frame ring in 18K yellow and pink gold with an Opal and Diamonds. Entry Platinum Innovation Susan Drake Spectrum Art & Jewelry Platinum and yellow gold ring featuring a red Spinel and Diamonds. Palladium Prestige Award Dawn Muscio D. Muscio Designs Isis ring with a Chrysocolla, Peridots and Diamonds in palladium and 14K rose gold. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 12 CLASSICAL 3rd Place Jeffrey Bilgore Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC Platinum pendant with a Morganite and yellow and white Diamonds. 2nd Place 1st Place James Currens J.W. Currens, Inc. Unheated Ruby and Diamond ring in platinum. Manufacturing Honors Ricardo Basta E. Eichberg, Inc. Tri-color eternity set bands with Rubies, tsavorite Garnets and Sapphires in 18K yellow gold and platinum. Platinum Honors Erica Courtney Erica Courtney Imperial pink Topaz and Diamond ring in platinum. 13 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Ashok Sancheti Pioneer Gems Emerald and Diamond earrings in platinum. Honorable Mention Frank Caballero Frank Caballero Madeira Citrine and Diamonds ring in 18K white and yellow gold. Entry Platinum Innovation Steph Farber LeRoy Jewelers Waterfall pendant in platinum with a rutilated Quartz, rainbow Moonstones and Diamonds. Honorable Mention Christo Kiffer Sissy’s Log Cabin Art-deco ring in platinum featuring a black Opal, Emeralds, Sapphires and Diamonds. Palladium Prestige Award Dennis de Jonghe Dennis de Jonghe Palladium ring with a South Sea Pearl and Diamonds. 1 3 2 4 5 9 6 8 7 Congratulations to the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards “Platinum Honors” Winners. Your exceptional designs beautifully demonstrate how well platinum, the world’s most precious naturally white metal, complements brilliantly colored stones. Your achievements inspire us all. To see these and other winning designs, visit preciousplatinum.com. “PLATINUM HONORS” 2012 WINNERS 1. PLATINUM HONORS CLASSICAL: ERICA COURTNEY 2. PLATINUM HONORS EVENING WEAR: EVELYN CLOTHIER JEWELRY 3. PLATINUM HONORS BRIDAL WEAR: JAMES W. CURRENS 4. PLATINUM HONORS BUSINESS/DAY WEAR: LEON MEGE 5. ENTRY PLATINUM HONORS CLASSICAL: STEPH FARBER 6. ENTRY PLATINUM HONORS BUSINESS/DAY WEAR: SUSAN DRAKE 7. ENTRY PLATINUM HONORS BRIDAL WEAR: MARK SCHNEIDER DESIGN 8. PLATINUM HONORS MEN’S WEAR: MARK SCHNEIDER DESIGN 9. BEST USE OF COLOR AND PLATINUM BUSINESS/DAY WEAR: MICHAEL ENDLICH AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 14 EVENING 1st Place 2nd Place Manufacturing Honors Honorable Mention Ion Ionescu Ionescu Design, Inc. Pillow for Dreaming ring with Labradorite and paraiba Tourmalines in palladium and black rhodium. Yehouda Saketkhou Yael Designs Lava ring with a Mexican fire Opal and Diamonds in 18K white gold. Adam Neeley Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Peridot and Sapphire ring in black rhodium-plated white gold. Lawrence Gordon Aspire Designs, Ltd. Moonstone, Sapphire and Diamond ring in 18K white gold. 3rd Place Robert Pelliccia J.R. Dunn Jewelers Natural blue Jade, Sapphire and Diamond earrings in 18K white gold. Honorable Mention Michael Hezar Michael John IMAGE Aquamarine and Diamond bracelet in18K white gold. Honorable Mention Colette Steckel Colette Jewelry Blue Moonstone and Diamond pendant in 18K blackened yellow gold. Platinum Honors Evelyn Clothier Evelyn Clothier Jewelry Butterfly brooch with brown and white Diamonds and Sapphires in platinum. 15 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Palladium Prestige Award Naomi Sarna Naomi Sarna Designs Topaz ring in palladium and Diamonds. Are you ready for Pantone Color of 2012 Tangerine Tango? AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 16 MEN’S WEAR 1st Place Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Ruby and yellow Diamond ring in platinum. 2nd Place Ryan Roberts Ryan Roberts, Ltd. Indicolite Tourmaline and tsavorite Garnet ring in 18K yellow gold and platinum. 3rd Place Llyn Strelau Jewels by Design Green Arrow cufflinks in 19K white gold with black Onyx, Gibeon Meteorite, tsavorite Garnets and black Diamonds. Honorable Mention Manufacturing Honors Ashleigh Branstetter Ashleigh Branstetter Sterling silver cufflinks set with grey Tahitian Pearls and Sapphires. Platinum Honors Mark Schneider Mark Schneider Design Rubellite Tourmaline ring in platinum accented with white and yellow Diamonds. 17 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Honorable Mention Link Wachler Link Wachler Designs Eye to Eye ring with a Pearl, Sapphires, Rubies and Emeralds in silver and 14K rose gold. Matt Conable William Henry Pocketknife with damascus blade in 22K yellow gold over sterling silver inlaid with fossil walrus Ivory and Rubies. Palladium Prestige Award Evelyn Huang evelynH. Jewelry, Inc. Zultan ring with Zultanite and Diamonds in palladium. PALLADIUM: BEST OF SHOW TWO YEARS IN A ROW CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNERS! Best of Show Todd Reed, Todd Reed Inc. Palladium and 22k yellow gold locket featuring blue moonstones, grey diamonds (24.51 cts. t.w.), blue sapphires (17.34 cts. t.w.) and white diamonds (5.10 cts. t.w.) opening to reveal a Evening Wear 76.03 ct. moldavite Buddha. 1st Place: Ion Ionescu, Ionescu Design, Inc. “Pillow for Dreaming” ring in palladium and black rhodium featuring a 36 ct. carved labradorite accented with Paraiba tourmalines (1.50 cts. t.w.). Business/Day Wear 2nd Place: Michele Mercaldo, Michele Mercaldo Contemporary Jewelry Ring made in palladium featuring a 2.64 ct. pink sapphire accented with diamonds (0.17 ct. t.w.). Best Use of Palladium & Color Bridal Wear Palladium Prestige Award Dennis de Jonghe, Dennis de Jonghe Palladium pendant featuring a 16.39 ct. aquamarine accented with a 2.09 ct. moonstone, diamonds (0.26 ct. t.w.), and pearls. Business/Day WearPalladium Prestige Award Mirjam Butz-Brown, Adorn Gallery Earrings in palladium and 14k yellow gold featuring quartz and mother-ofpearl accented with diamonds (0.16 ct. t.w.) with detachable mirror-cut amethyst drops (21.50 cts. t.w.). Dawn Muscio, D. Muscio Designs “Isis” ring in palladium and 14k rose gold featuring a 19.98 ct. buff-top chrysocolla accented with peridots (0.36 ct. t.w.) and diamonds (0.11 ct. t.w.). Men’s Wear Palladium Prestige Award Evelyn Huang, evelynH. Jewelry, Inc. Classical Palladium Prestige Award “Zultan” ring in palladium featuring a 12.54 ct. color-change diaspore accented with radiant-cut diamonds (0.43 ct. t.w.). Dennis de Jonghe, Dennis de Jonghe Ring in palladium featuring a 16.5 mm white South Seas pearl accented with round diamonds (0.71 ct. t.w.). Evening Wear Palladium Prestige Award Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs Ring in palladium featuring a 35 ct. carved topaz accented with diamonds (0.63 ct. t.w.). ALLIANCE INTERNATIONAL Want to be the next winner? Consider what creativity palladium can unleash for you. Gain great tips for working with palladium at luxurypalladium.com. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 18 C L A S S I C G EM S TO N ES 1st Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. 30.04 ct. unheated oval yellow Sapphire. 2nd Place Phillip Youngman Richard Krementz Gemstones 7.66 ct. cushion-cut blue Sapphire. 3rd Place Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 6.07 ct. unheated Ruby. Honorable Mention Richard Krementz Gemstones Richard Krementz Gemstones 19.18 ct. antique-cut yellow Sapphire. Honorable Mention Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 8.06 ct. oval Padparadscha Sapphire. A L L OT H E R FAC E T E D G E M S TO N ES 1st Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. 10.07 ct. oval purple Spinel. 2nd Place Roger L. Dery Spectral Gems, Inc. 8.77 ct. trillion, step-cut Merelani mint Garnet. 3rd Place Phillip Youngman Richard Krementz Gemstones 15.20 ct. cushion-cut Sphene. Honorable Mention Ben Kho Kho International, Inc. 18.80 ct. round Portuguesecut Rhodochrosite. 19 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 20 PH EN O M EN A L G EM S TO N ES 1st Place Robyn Dufty DuftyWeis Opals, Inc. 27.30 ct. black Opal cat’s eye. 2nd Place Sailesh Lakhi Sparkles and Colors, Inc. 17.0 ct. oval Moonstone cabochon. 3rd Place Joseph Ambalu Amba Gem Corp. 8.51 ct. oval Alexandrite. (left- incandescent; right- daylight) PA I R S & SU ITES 1st Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. Pair of oval red Spinels (22.28 ctw.). 2nd Place Allen Kleiman A. Kleiman & Co. Cushion-cut mint Tourmaline suite (158.74 ctw.). 3rd Place Aivan Pham Commercial Mineral - Somewhere in the Rainbow My Fair Lady pair of fan-cut rubellite Tourmalines (26.75 ctw.). Honorable Mention Aivan Pham Commercial Mineral - Somewhere in the Rainbow Razzle Dazzle graduated suite of asscher-cut rubellite Tourmalines (26.74 ctw.). 21 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 I N N OVAT I V E FAC E T E D G E M S TO N ES 1st Place Dalan Hargrave Geogem-USA Hugs and Kisses 30.0 ct. Morganite. 2nd Place John Dyer John Dyer & Co. 63.57 ct. Super Citrine featuring flat facets and micro-grooving. 3rd Place Darrell Jang Darrell Jang 9-10 ct. elongated octagon and concave-cut Tourmaline. Honorable Mention Richard P. Homer Gems by Design, Inc. 30.95 ct. rutilated Quartz with a single natural needle in the center. Honorable Mention Darryl Alexander Sunstone Butte Mining Co. Sea Foam and Sunset 70.0 ct. bubble-cut Sunstone. CARVINGS 1st Place Naomi Sarna Naomi Sarna Designs 368.50 ct. carved Amethyst. 2nd Place Darryl Alexander Alexander’s Jewelers Immortal Flight carved Agate feather. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 22 R e g i n a b y l o rr a i n e K i n g Her Newest Beat: Jewelry Model d e p a s q u e Whether she’s playing one of the LAPD’s Finest in TNT’s hit police drama Southland, or wearing some of America’s finest gemstone jewelry, Regina King brings her distinct personality to the role. That said, portraying Detective Lydia Adams on Southland is admittedly more familiar territory for the talented veteran TV and film actress than her gig as one of the celebrity models for the winning jewelry designs of the 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards ™. 23 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 The competition, now in its 28th year and sponsored Just as King learns from the process of acting—for by the American Gem Trade Association, is considered Southland, part of her prep work included attending weapons the jewelry industry’s most prestigious colored gemstone training camp—she says she has learned much from her role jewelry design contest. King, a woman who appreciates as a model for the Spectrum Awards. “Specifically, that there high-quality accessories and wears jewelry every day in her is so much artistry out there in contemporary gemstone personal life, says, “I’m so happy for the opportunity to do jewelry, with lots of new cuts and gems I didn’t know about. this.” What are her go-to pieces? “I always put on a pair of This is the first time I’ve ever seen jewelry like this. It’s earrings and a watch and, most of the time, colored stone important for people to be open to thinking about these kinds rings in emeralds, rubies and sapphires that I stack.” She of out-of-the-ordinary pieces—and to consider gems and tends to choose medium-sized jewelry, explaining, “because cuts they’ve never contemplated before.” I’m small—maybe five-foot-three on a good day,” adding, Any particular favorites for Regina? “Well, I love this one “but I have a long neck so I do like wearing long colored really, really neat ring—a fish carved in black jade with fire gemstone earrings.” opal eyes.” She’s referring to a dramatic design by Manya & Roumen Jewelry of South Orange, New Jersey. Perhaps not ironically for this actress who often “wears the blues” in her popular TV cop series, King says she is finding that she likes a lot of the blue gemstone designs in the AGTA Spectrum Awards™. Particularly a palladium ring by Naomi Sarna Designs of New York City, which features a 35 carat carved blue topaz. “The way the gem is carved and captures light, it looks like the ocean. Until now, I’ve never seen a gemstone in that form,” says King. “I tend to have a classic style in my personal wardrobe, but unusual jewelry designs like these from the Spectrum Awards collection are important to add individuality. And every woman, every age, also need pearls. It can be anything-a ring, bracelet, even a strand—but try something different, like the amazing colors that pearls come in, such as the grays and pinks. It’s exciting to try different things.” “Trying different things” guides Regina King not only in her jewelry choices but in her career projects as well. “About a year ago, I started directing a few music videos--I directed and was the leading lady in Jaheim’s video for his single, ‘Finding My Way Back’--and that’s something I hope to be able to do more of in the future, when I have the time.” For now, however, with filming in progress for Southland’s fourth season, airing on January 17, time is a luxury—a luxury much like the jewelry she wears as a 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ model. See the hautest looks visit addmorecolortoyourlife.comp On Regina King: Best Use of Color earrings by Deirdre Featherstone of Featherstone Design and Platinum Honors Ring by Leon Mege of Leon Mege, Inc. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 24 M e mb e r P r Todd Reed o f i l e : In 1992, Todd Reed introduced raw and uncut diamonds to contemporary jewelry. While the term diamond had for centuries been associated with brilliance and clarity, Reed redefined it to celebrate the “perfect geometry” found in the natural, uncut diamond. His passion has led him to be regarded as the leading expert in rough diamonds. The inherent beauty of raw diamonds’ natural shapes and diverse spectrum of colors lends to the uniqueness and variety offered by Reed’s hand-forged and fabricated jewelry. In 1994, his idea of “Uncut. Unpolished. Natural, Perfect Geometry.” really started to take off. Todd Reed is a self-taught goldsmith and metalsmith. He enjoys the hard work that goes into each piece. Each of his pieces is created from start to finish in his luxurious design studio in Boulder, Colorado, using high-karat recycled gold and other precious metals, paired with the unique and interesting diamond specimens. The end result is jewelry that evokes an intimate connection between art and an individual’s self expression. Each of his designs comes with a promise of unsurpassed quality. Reed has won many prestigious international jewelry design awards, and has been featured in museum collections and showcased in fine books on jewelry design. His designs are coveted in fashion and jewelry periodicals throughout the world. Two years ago, Reed entered the AGTA Spectrum Awards™ competition for the first time. He won the coveted “Best of Show Award” for a palladium cuff bracelet with aquamarine and diamonds. He followed that up this year by winning “Best of Show Award” again with a moonstone and diamond encrusted locket that opens to reveal a carved moldavite Buddha. “I enter Spectrum to challenge myself as a designer in the most prestigious jewelry design competition in the world today,” shares Reed. “The competition challenges me to make something really special; something that is not part of my everyday routine.” Still, the competition does not impact his day-today work or his collections. “There are many inspirations and emotions in a piece like this year’s Spectrum entry - personal transitions, multiple layers to my emotions, hidden desires 25 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Brooch featuring Reed’s signature uncut diamonds in palladium and yellow gold. “My work continues to grow as I grow, and I am still inspired by most everything. Beauty and nature are endless inspiration.” —TODD REED 2011 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Best of Show Aquamarine with grey and white Diamonds palladium cuff. and passions, a peaceful place of contemplation behind a moody, beautiful and mysterious exterior.” His advice for up and coming designers is to be true to your personal philosophy and balance your personal life and work. 2012 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Best of Show Moonstone, grey and white Diamonds and Sapphire encrusted locket in palladium and 22K yellow gold. Inside reveals a Moldavite Buddha. The designer loves working with all gemstones. He confesses that he is “sick” over natural color, but admits to not really using it so much. “I tend to stick with diamonds, palladium, gold and silver. I do love steel and think working in steel is so cool and great for all the senses.” Reed’s jewelry can be found across the country. His typical customer is not typical. Reed’s target customers have identified his jewelry with personality and character, which is often lacking in mainstream jewelry. “Our typical customers make an emotional connection to our jewelry. Owing to the uniqueness of “I am deeply inspired by my everyday surroundings. Everyday interactions that shape, morph and mold my mind that influences my heart. This everyday interaction could be nature inspired, philosophy, a song, a dance, an observance. I translate the surroundings into wearable art, wearable philosophy.” the materials we use, we essentially create one-of-a-kind jewelry for each client in the majority of pieces, within the context of an established and evolving design,” adds Reed. His latest collection of bridal jewelry defines a new category of the emerging market of ‘alternative bridal jewelry.’ “It’s just beginning to be discovered by today’s young couples that value individualized and unique Reed does around 40 trunk shows a year. These are special events since Todd Reed, Inc. does not memo jewelry to stores. “I used alternatives to the bridal jewelry of their parents’ generation,” shares Reed. to bring the kitchen sink to a trunk show, but over the last couple of years, I realized that bringing a smaller amount was better for me. A more focused collection is easier to sell from and grow To learn more about Todd Reed and his designs visit him at AGTA GemFair™ Tucson and www.toddreed.com.p my business.” Reed’s trunk show tip for designers is to curate the collection well. In addition, always try to close the sale at the show. With special orders, have the customer place a deposit at the event. Once the event is over, it takes a lot of effort to close Bridal Collection Rings. the sale and often means prolonging indefinitely what could have been done on the spot with the customer. Reed also does several trade shows throughout the year. In fact, Reed initially joined the AGTA to participate in AGTA GemFair™ Tucson. “It’s an industry group that was relevant to my interests and I also wanted to be a part of a group with people whom I admired,” Reed says. AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 26 2012 COLOR F b y l o rr a i n e o r e c a s t d e p a s q u e Omi Gems ring featuring an orange sapphire and diamonds. What’s the color with juice? Tangerine, of course! It’s the “2012 Color of the Year,” according to the Pantone Color Institute. From fashion and jewelry to beauty and home, this bold and refreshing red-orange is bursting with energy everywhere. “It’s not only fun and beautiful but also surprisingly flattering on most everyone,” says Pantone’s Executive Director Leatrice Eiseman. In an exclusive interview with AGTA, Eiseman— often referred to as “the international color guru” and author of the recently published “Pantone: The 20th Century in Color”—says that the spirit of this cheerful color, Tangerine Tango (what Pantone calls it) is ripe for adding bright and sunny orange-colored stone jewelry to your wardrobe, too. In fact, it’s a must, she says. “To be up-todate this year, you need to bring orange into your wardrobe. And one of the best ways to start is by popping your neutrals with vibrant tangerinetoned accessories and jewelry.” Eiseman says she Let’s Talk Tangerine made it a priority to buy herself a dramatic brooch To begin, just as orange is located between red with a bright orange gemstone as soon as she and yellow on a color wheel, that’s how Eiseman saw so much of the high-octane hue lighting up explains Pantone’s Color of the Year: “Tangerine spring’s runways. Indeed, from Tommy Hilfiger Tango’s ‘mother colors’ are red and yellow, to Versace to Michael Kors, tangerine ready- so tangerine has the excitement of red and the Not-So-Mellow Yellow to-wear is on fire—sunset-shaded pants, tops, approachability of yellow. It’s a sophisticated This year, yellow is one of the perfect complement and dresses are alight everywhere! Lucky for us color that many high-end international brands colors to orange. jewelry lovers, so, too, are the “tangerine-toned” like Hermes and Etro have focused on for years. gems, you can actually see alluring hints of jewelry offerings. And the extra-bright news is But it’s taken America longer to look at orange yellow in them). This year, Pantone labels their that, like the growing number of clothing lines that way.” Jane Taylor “Color Candy® Collection,” carnelian earrings with orange sapphires and diamonds. (In fact, with some orange leading warm-weather yellow Solar Power. offering a price point for everyone, many jewelry Remember the Hermes’ ginger-hued Birken An eye-opening primary like Tangerine Tango, collections with pumpkin, curry, and cinnamon bags or Etro’s iconic paisley pattern on cayenne- it, too, is fresh and bold and a favorite of many colored stones have pieces ranging from very colored leather purses? In the same fashion, many design leaders this year, for example, American affordable to one-of-a-kind luxury. contemporary American jewelry brands are now fashion house Bill Blass, which focuses its spring Do remember, though, that while tangerine fashioning delicious collections replete with pieces collection on vivid yellow, giving it the moniker, “squeezed out” others as the year’s number-one spotlighting gems in intense colors like pumpkin, Cyber Yellow. A good rule-of-thumb in 2012? fashion and accessorizing color, there are some spice, cinnamon, and curry. From versatile jewelry “Two brights look right.” So be sure to layer additional hues that Pantone points to as also with affordable stones like carnelian, coral, and yellow gemstone jewelry into your tangerine important. They include several hyper brights jasper, to one-of-a-kind confections with stones wardrobe for both summer and winter. Consider as well as a few less-in-your-face grounding such as fire opal, mandarin garnet, and fancy primary-yellow gems such as fancy yellow colors—more muted but by no means somber. orange sapphire, there’s “tangerine” jewelry for sapphire, citrine, and topaz. But also ask your Eiseman says, “It’s important to create your own every taste and budget. Other luscious orangey- jeweler to show you some of the many subdued personal style and mix ‘n match the other top reds and red-oranges—many in the mid-price yellow gems like amber, chrysoberyl, and yellow shades with your orange. You’ll be surprised how range—include spessartite garnet, spinel, and red moonstone—all three look fabulous cut into big well tangerine goes with many of them.” agate. translucent cabochon shapes. 27 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 Katie Diamond Sutra earrings with chrysoprase and black garnet. Richard Krementz Gemstones pink sapphire and diamond ring. The Green Initiative Another of the year’s important brights actually has an undertone of yellow: It’s a yellow-green that Pantone has christened Margarita. Yes, margarita as in the cocktail, but somewhat quieter and a bit less citrus-y. And also like the cocktail, it’s something to mix! Eiseman says, “To freshen Alex Sepkus aquamarine earring with diamonds. up every wardrobe this year, I recommend mixing Margarita green and Tangerine Tango orange. Some strong green gem favorites among jewelry designers this year are agate, garnet, tourmaline, jade, quartz, green amethyst, and peridot. The Newest Neutrals Oh, and yes, also a gem fast-becoming the Finally, to tone things down—but only if you darling of many a designer’s eye: Zultanite. feel you absolutely must!—there are the trending This transparent diaspore gem—rare because taupes and the new blues of 2012. Driftwood it’s found only in Turkey—has intriguing color- and Starfish are two neutrals in the latte family Parle rubellite tourmaline ring. changing properties—turning from kiwi green to champagne brown to raspberry pink as you look that give warmth to the livelier oranges, yellows, greens, and pinks, while Sodalite is Pantone’s at it! So if you’re committed to treating yourself top blue for the first half of the year, a color that this year with jewelry in a trending color that’s Eiseman notes is “fresh but not too out-there. It’s unusual and also a real conversation-starter, somewhere between navy and royal blue--very Zultanite is a great choice. indigo. Sodalite is a classic color. If you look at There is a second green that Pantone suggests a color wheel, it’s directly across from orange. working into your tangerine this year: Cockatoo. Perfect Pinks So wearing Tangerine Tango with Sodalite this Not in the typical bold palette for Twenty-Twelve, And what warm-weather wardrobe would be year is key to on-trend style.” Some of the more it’s more like the pale green of a honeydew rather complete without a portion of pink? This year’s subtle blue gems are labradorite, moonstone, than the bright green of a lime. Most fashion hit pink is, in fact, hot pink—what Pantone chalcedony, and aquamarine, while some of the designers this year are referring to it as “seafoam.” classifies as Cabaret. You see it this spring/ more intense, brighter blue hues include sapphire, From Rachel Roy and Rodarte to Vera Wang and summer looking very seductive and sexy, for iolite, blue topaz, tanzanite, and lapis. Tory Burch, the light and airy pastel is important example, on Christian Louboutin’s stilettos. in ready-to-wear—and dazzling when paired Other fashion leaders give pink a more cosmetic- with green gems, bright or otherwise. The lucid like appearance--like Badgley Mischka with their emphasizing they are guidelines, not rules, and soothing shades of chrysoprase and green newest sandals and heels. Whether deep or pale, “Because where color is concerned, I don’t like to moonstone, especially when cut in cabochons, the spectrum of pink gems is enchanting. Fancy use the world rules. Instead, follow the guidelines are beautiful accessory options—and unusual, as sapphire, tourmaline, rubellite, raspberry quartz, of the leading colors, then be adventurous and you definitely won’t see all of your friends also pink chalcedony, morganite, and pink moonstone choose something from within them that you’d wearing these special stones! are all worth looking into. never before thought about!”p So that’s the direction for 2012, Eiseman says, AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 28 agta Retail MaRKeting Kit With the AGTA Retail Marketing Tool Kit you can customize powerful retail marketing materials needed to promote your business. From print advertisements to posters, billboards to web banners, our tool kit offers a variety of items designed to effectively reach any targeted audience. Retailers can select from print-ready artwork where all they need to do is tag their logo or customize one of the ads from our “Attraction to Color” series with jewelry from their own store. The artwork is free to all AGTA Members. There is a small customization fee for placing jewelry.p Contact Adam Graham or Danielle Pelletiere at AGTA for more information- 800-972-1162. Your attraction to color is only natural ... With natural colored gemstones and pearls. Add fabulous color to your jewelry wardrobe today by visiting our fine collection of colored gemstone and cultured pearl jewelry. As members of the American Gem Trade Association, we are your trusted source for these beautiful treasures of nature. Your attraction to color is only natural ... STORE LOGO HERE With natural colored gemstones and pearls. STORE CONTACT INFORMATION HERE Add fabulous color to your jewelry wardrobe today by visiting our fine collection of colored gemstone and cultured pearl jewelry. As members of the American Gem Trade Association, we are your trusted source for these beautiful treasures of nature. Your attraction to color is only natural ... With natural colored gemstones and pearls. RETAILER INFORMATION Add fabulous color to your jewelry wardrobe today by visiting our fine collection of colored gemstone and cultured pearl jewelry. As members of the American Gem Trade Association, we are your trusted source for these beautiful treasures of nature. RETAILER INFORMATION n e w M Associated Industry Professional Members B&W Tek, Inc. Travis Thompson M. Lange Co., Inc. Norman Lange Noble Gift Packaging Thomas MacManus Sarin Technologies, Ltd. Jim Littman Somewhere In The Rainbow Gem & Jewelry Collection Shelly Sergent 29 A G T A P R I S M | A G T A S p e c t r u m A w a r d s ™ S p e c i a l E d i t i o n 2 0 1 2 e M B e R s Manufacturing Members Retailer Members Atelier Marisa Marisa Goebel-Labelle Aaron Faber Edward Faber Karyn J at So Bella Adam Somer Hamilton Jewelers Hank Siegel Lisa Mele Rare Gems Lisa Mele Llyn Strong Llyn Strong Nature’s Gems John Nuss Tim French, Inc. Timothy French Splendid Company Robin Franklin Wendel’s Diamond Jewelers Stuart Palestrant Sharon Wei Designs Sharon Wei Student Members Ching-Yi Chen Danielle Signor Elizabeth Legg Eric Fritz Isabelle De Gaspe Beaubien Joan Vereen Stallings John A. Piechocki Laura Smith Lynn Wallace Merrill Tiffany Gaisano Moira Verwijk Raquel Nash Stephen Zeng If it looks too good to be true... Deep discounts for “fine quality”, little or no information regarding gemstone treatments, and top-quality gemstones selling for lowquality prices all raise a red flag – and rightly so. All too often, they’re a sign of inferior quality or questionable business practices. For natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, the AGTA Member logo is your assurance of quality and value. Each AGTA Member is committed to the highest standards of ethics in the industry. Full disclosure of any treatments provides you with complete confidence in your purchases. Ensure that you are getting what you pay for by sourcing from AGTA Members through the AGTA Source Directory and at the 2012 AGTA GemFair™ Las Vegas. Buy Smart. Buy Safe. www.AGTADirectory.com AGTA PRISM|AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Special Edition 2012 30 3030 LBJ Fwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234 When you want the magnificent... 2012 Spectrum Award Winner Sapphire Lace Ring unheated Burmese sapphire Richard Krementz Gemstones We bring you the world’s most dramatic colors.® www.richard krementz gemstones.com 800-835-3436 Follow our spectrum on P