here - Unalaska
Transcription
here - Unalaska
Unalaska PORT of DUTCH HARBOR OFFICIAL 2014 VISITORS GUIDE Much of the land on Unalaska, Amaknak and Sedanka Islands is privately owned by the Ounalashka Corporation. All recreational use of OC land requires a permit which can be obtained at our office located at: 400 Salmon Way in the Margaret Bay Subdivision. While visiting our office you can: Get trail information Visit our cultural library See our collection of baskets, sculptures, art and more WELCOME TO unalaska Welcome to Unalaska and the International Port of Dutch Harbor. You are in the heart of the Aleutians and will marvel at the “Un” common natural beauty of our island and the “Un” common friendliness of our community during your stay. Cover Photos courtesy of: Hiking: Jake Whitaker, Waterfall: Ben Bolock, Dry Fish: Mandy Anderson King Crab: Jeff Hawley, Fireweed: Dave Glotzbach all others provided by CVB staff Photograph property of CVB Thank you for respecting our property and keeping it clean so that others may enjoy it. Contact us at: 400 Salmon Way|P.O. Box 149|Unalaska, AK 99685 Telephone: (907) 581-1276 Absorb the rich history of the Unangan culture in the Museum of the Aleutians, Drive or hike to historic WWII sites, and enjoy the natural bounty of our waters and hills as you fish and berry pick without the prospect of any bears that might be doing the same thing! There are many wonderful adventures waiting for you in Unalaska, and we are pleased to have you visiting our home. If you are a birder or angler, you have truly found paradise. After a day of hiking and exploring our 38 miles of back roads and ancient Unangan trails or fishing for salmon, halibut and cod in our sheltered near shore waters, you can relax and unwind in one of our local restaurants with cuisine from Vietnam, China, Mexico and the Pacific Rim, then rest for the next day’s adventure at the beautiful, full service Grand Aleutian Hotel (your home away from home). Our community center houses an array of athletic opportunities including indoor running, racquetball, yoga, swimming, and a weight and cardio room if you still have energy to burn. If you are ready to relax, you’ll find internet access and a rich collection of resources on Alaska and Aleutian history in our delightful and creative library, or you can sit on a bench and watch the ShirlEy Marquardt Humpback whales feeding in the Mayor of the City of Unalaska bay. For the 24th year in a row, we are the Number One Fishing Port in the nation for seafood landings, and our docks are busy for much of the year landing over 700 million pounds of prime Alaskan fish and crab. We are a unique fishing town, and you will not experience anything like us in Alaska. I know that you will love your visit to Unalaska/Dutch Harbor and will have the adventure of a lifetime. Take care, and hope to see you in 2014! 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 1 Convention & Visitors Bureau P.O. Box 545 5 Broadway Street Unalaska, AK 99685 2 >> Information 3 >>Travel 4 >> Weather january February March April May June July August September October November December 37/26 37/26 38/27 41/30 45/36 51/40 57/45 59/46 54/42 47/36 43/32 38/29 January February March April May June July August September October November December 7 in 6 in 6 in 3 in 4 in 3 in 2 in 3 in 5 in 6 in 7 in 7 in AVERAGE SNOWFALL Unalaska Port of Dutch Harbor AVERAGE TEMPERATURES 1 >> Welcome 23 in 21 in 14 in 6 in 1 in 5 in 15 in AVERAGE RAINFALL TABLE of CONTENTS January February March April May June July August September October November December 6 >> WWII in the Aleutians PHONE 907.581.2612 TOLL FREE 877.581.2612 www.unalaska.info unalaskacvb@gmail.com - CVB STAFF - 8 >> Museum of the Aleutians 10 >> Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of Christ 12 >> Unalaska Fisheries 13 >> Port of Dutch Harbor Cathy Jordan 14 >> Fish of Unalaska Executive Director Ali Bonomo 16 >> Unalaska Map Visitor Coordinator 18 >> Birding in the Aleutians Maren Sunderland Outreach Coordinator Copyright© 2014 Unalaska/Port of Dutch Harbor, Convention & Visitors Bureau. No part of this publication may be reproduced without permission of the publisher Printed in part with funding from the Citizens of the City of Unalaska. Design & Layout by Sabrina Wilt Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information herein. Rate changes vary from season to season and are subject to change. Unalaska / Port of Dutch Harbor Convention & Visitors Bureau is not responsible for any errors or omissions that might occur. Information contained within this guide does not necessarily reflect endorsement of product or service by Unalaska / Port of Dutch Harbor Convention & Visitors Bureau nor is it responsible for the contents of the individual advertisements and listings. The information and maps contained in this publication may not be reproduced or utilized for commercial use without the express written consent of Unalaska/ Port of Dutch Harbor Convention & Visitors Bureau. 20 >> Aleutian Adventure 22 >> Aleutian Plants 24 >> Calendar of Events 26 >> Marine Wildlife 28 >> Makushin Volcano 29 >> 52 Real Things to do in Unalaska UNALASKA TRAVELING to UNALASKA DUTCH HARBOR The indigenous Unangan (Aleuts) called their island Agunalaksh, which roughly translates to “close to the mainland.” The main village on the island was called Iliuliuk which refers to the curvature of the bay. Russian fur traders came to the islands in the mid-1700’s and eventually referred to the island and village as Ounalashka. After the United States bought Alaska, the U.S. Board of Geographical Names standardized the spelling to Unalaska. The only way to travel to Unalaska is by boat, such as the Alaska State Ferry, cruise ship, or by plane There is an unsubstantiated story, that in the late 1700’s a Dutch ship anchored up in what was then known as Ulakta Harbor, a naturally very deep and protected harbor along the south shore of Amaknak Island. The Russian population at the time dubbed that body of water Dutch Harbor. During WWII, the military referred to the entire area as Dutch Harbor as did the people that came here later to work in the commercial fisheries industry. The weather here is unpredictable, and we suggest dressing in layers so you are prepared for sun, wind, and/or rain. Today, the two names are used interchangeably to identify the area. Technically, they are both within the limits of the City of Unalaska, which encompasses all of Amaknak Island and the northeastern end of Unalaska Island. In 1980 the two were connected by the “Bridge to the Other Side.” Amaknak is commonly referred to as the Dutch Harbor side. Our satellites do not pick up some cell phone service providers. Cell-phone service options are available on the island. Windproof clothing is highly recommended. Bring a camera!! Photographic opportunities are truly endless. Due to weight capacities & weather factors it is common that your luggage may be delayed. Just in case, pack all medicines, valuables, and extra set of clothes, in your carry-on! ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY SEE ALASKA... For a grand adventure! SEASONAL SPORT FISHING DECEMBER — JANUARY > Black Bass > Kelp Greenling > Cod > Flounder > King Salmon (Feeder King Salmon) in Saltwater MAY — Mid-NOVEMBER > Halibut Mid-MAY — Mid-AUGUST > Dolly Varden in Saltwater Mid-JULY — DECEMBER > Dolly Varden in freshwater Mid-MAY — JULY > Red Salmon Mid-JULY — AUGUST > Pink Salmon Mid-AUGUST — OCTOBER > Silver Salmon Mid-AUGUST — SEPTEMBER > Chum Salmon 2 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT of DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Explore the Aleutian islands on an Alaska state ferry. You’ll find a dramatic, untamed land rich with five-million sea birds, Aleut culture and some of the best fishing anywhere in Alaska. It’s the experience of a lifetime. Visit us online for routes, videos and more. FerryAlaska.com/dutch 1-800-642-0066 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 3 “THERE’S NO BAD WEATHER, JUST BAD CLOTHES.” BY BOBBIE LEKANOFF Williwaw Weather Wonderful Weather BY LYNDA LYBECK ROBINSON & In the deepest dark of a bleak midwinter morning, when the winds can shake the eaves and shove icy fingers through the tightest window panes and sealed doors, there is a bright side. When the cold seems insurmountable and endless, there is one thought in particular that locals can, and often do, turn to, to warm their spirits: The memory of a perfect Unalaska summer day. Throw open the windows, and, depending on where you stand, the scent of the sea and windswept tundra, greets you. Beyond, a water colored emerald landscape dotted with purple lupin, crisp white daisies smiling with golden eyes gently wave and turn toward the sun, while flocks of young grey crowned rosy finches, lapland longspurs and sparrows dance with almost a hundred summer bird species over the sweet reddening salmonberries tucked, growing and ready for picking. The sound of “whoosh” carried over the breeze excites, and you turn just in time to see humpbacks blowing and sounding in the bay. After years of living here, you aren’t surprised when you see that long time residents still carry cameras with them everywhere they go, and say to each other, “Can you believe this day?” Count a day like this, along with a million other reasons, why Unalaska is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and keeps folks in love with it even through the hardest of winters. ARCTIC TERN PROFESSIONAL SERVICES ~ Rhonda Wayner ~ P.O. Box 113014 Anchorage, AK 99511 907.433.9767 “we go the distance” arctictern.rw@gmail.com FINANCIAL/GRANT REPORTING NON-PROFIT & SMALL BUSINESS BOOKKEEPING MANAGEMENT A williwaw is defined by Webster’s New World Dictionary, in part, as a “sudden, violent, cold wind blowing down from mountain passes toward the coast in far northern latitudes as on the Alaskan coast and Aleutians.” In the Aleut Dictionary/Unangam Tunudgusii, compiled by Knut Bergsland, 1994, it is described as a “squall, whirlwind (wind raising up smoke on the sea), or wind coming from different directions.” This is just one of the extreme weather phenomena that occur in the Aleutians. The area has been dubbed the cradle of storms; the birthplace of the winds. You get the picture, the wind is usually blowing to some degree. It is kicked up by what are known as the Aleutian lows, low fronts that form out over the Pacific Ocean and Bering Sea, and move over the Aleutians from west to east. They actually determine much of the weather over Canada and to some degree the lower 48 states. The weather is one of the main topics of conversation if you live and work in Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, and may determine whether or not you go boating, hiking, birding, fishing, beach combing, biking, kayaking, or skiing, to name a few possible activities. You definitely dress in layers and keep in mind, to quote a local, “there’s no bad weather, just bad clothes.” One thing is for sure in Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, there is nothing boring about the weather. Q U I CK BO O K S TRA I N I N G & C O N S U LTATI O N S E RVI C E S DEVELOPMENT & OVERSIGHT • AUDIT PREP 4th & Broadway consignment clothing boutique 4TH & BROADWAY 907.359.1342 tuesday - saturday // 1-7pm upstairs 16 4th street & w broadway Call us for rates and make a reservation today! BC Vehicle Rental 105 AIRPORT BEACH ROAD, DUTCH HARBOR, ALASKA EMAIL US: CHECKER@ARCTIC.NET | PHONE: (907) 581-6777 | FAX: (907) 581-2538 Free Pick Up and Delivery! 24 Hour On-call Service! Ask About Our Cellular Phone Rentals! Convenient location inside Tom Madsen Airport CARS - TRUCKS - SUV’S - PASSENGER VANS - FLATBEDS “CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS DAY?” 4 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Photograph Courtesy of Rich Bye PAST JUNE 4, 1942 WWII - IN THE ALEUTIANS Bombing of Fort Mears in Dutch Harbor (Amaknak Island) AMRC-b80-75-13 BEFORE : APRIL 1941 AFTER : JUNE 4, 1942 The impact of World War II in the Aleutian Islands remains one of the most visible features that dot this remote landscape today. Quonset huts, barracks, and former gun emplacements blend with Unalaska’s modern physical features, providing visitors and locals alike with a unique opportunity to explore this part of United States history. For more on World War II in the Aleutians please visit the Aleutian World War II Visitor Center, the Ounalashka Corporation, and the Museum of the Aleutians. 24-bed Unalaska hospital Operated by the Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA) UAA-HMC-0506-series4-5-4 UAF-1970-11-20 Navy Ships in Dutch Harbor (Amaknak Island). Ballyhoo Mountain in the background. ASL-P338-0431 The United States military paid little attention to the Aleutian Islands prior to WWII. A naval exercise in 1934 was a disaster due to weather, and Navy PBY airplanes were allowed to fly out only in summer. A treaty with Japan forbade the building of bases in the island chain. All of this changed in 1938 when Japan announced it would abandon the treaty. The U.S. military began looking in earnest at the options for base building. The decision to use Dutch Harbor as the main naval base did not come easily. Little flat ground, and a harbor that was too small for turning large vessels, were balanced by the fact that the navy already had a radio station and weather observatory in place here. The private buildings that made up the village on Amaknak Island were bought and construction began in the summer of 6 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Photographs Courtesy of Alaska State Library. Unangan (Aleut) people from the entire chain. The decision was ill planned and carried out with no regard for the victims’ well being. Eight hundred eighty-one people from eight villages were sent to makeshift camps in southeast Alaska. There the discomfort and lack of care resulted In May 1942, a Japanese naval force of two in high death rates among the youngest aircraft carriers and several smaller ships and oldest of the culture, losses that are steamed 180 miles southwest of Unalaska still felt today. A week after the attacks on Island. Their mission was to neutralize the air Unalaska, the Americans discovered that base at Dutch Harbor and destroy its ability the Japanese had occupied two islands to attack Japan. In a strange compromise, on the western end of the chain, Attu and due to the lack of flat ground, American Kiska. A concentrated attempt to bomb airfields had been built 100 miles east, at the enemy from the islands failed, so a new Cold Bay, and 80 miles west, on Umnak tactic was developed. This was the building Island, Cape Field. On June 3rd, at 6 A.M., of airfields closer and closer to the enemyeleven Kate bombers and six Zero fighters held islands. By the end of August 1942, a major base was opened on Adak Island. attacked the base. The Americans, This shifted having broken the enemy code, operations from “ON JUNE 4TH, were prepared. Finding no airfield, Unalaska further the planes dropped their bombs DUTCH WAS west. The base on the Army barracks of Ft. Mears. at Dutch Harbor This tightly packed cluster of white ATTACKED AGAIN soon became a buildings housed most of the minor support BY ELEVEN ZEROS, 9,000 men on the island. More center. bombs fell on radio stations and NINE KATES AND A year after the anti-aircraft positions. No Japanese Japanese attacks planes were shot down. Strangely, AN ADDITIONAL on Dutch Harbor, communication with the American the Americans PUNCH OF ELEVEN airfields failed during the attacks. invaded Attu, No planes came to the defense of VAL DIVE-BOMBERS” and in nineteen Dutch Harbor. Over the next 24 days of heavy hours, American aircraft searched fighting cleared for the Japanese. A few unsuccessful attacks it of the enemy. Two months later, the were made against the small fleet. On June 4th, Dutch was attacked again by Americans landed on Kiska expecting the eleven Zeros, nine Kates and an additional same fanatical resistance. Instead, they punch of eleven Val dive-bombers. Having discovered the Japanese had evacuated photographed the base the previous their entire force. This ended the Aleutian day, the Japanese dropped bombs that Campaign but not the American presence destroyed fuel tanks, and a ship used for on Unalaska, which lasted until the war power generation (the Northwestern), as ended. PRESENT 1940. Six months later, the Naval Section base was commissioned, with an air station completed by September 1941. When the war began in December of that year, the base at Dutch Harbor was ill defended. Only a major artillery position on Ballyhoo Mountain was completed. well as smaller random targets. Once again, communication with the airfields failed. In total, less than fifty men were killed in action. As the Japanese steamed away westward, the Americans made two important decisions. Priority one was to build a runway in Dutch Harbor. This was done in nine days and is still used today. The second was to evacuate the native WWII remnants WWII Radio Station NB The sunken ship Northwestern BR Jeff Dickrell Author & History Teacher, Unalaska City High School Photographs Courtesy of: NB - Natalie Beckett, BR - Brett Richardson all others provided by the CVB staff. 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 7 The MUSEUM of the ALEUTIANS The Museum of the Aleutians is a state-of-theart cultural center of the Aleutian Islands and the Unalaska community. The Museum opened its doors in 1999 with the mission to collect, preserve, and research the ethnography and history of the Aleutian Islands Region. Through actively growing ethnographic, Russian/American, “ALEUTIAN WWII, and artwork collections, the Museum provides stimulating ARCHAEOLOGISTS permanent and changing exhibits, as well as a home to researchers HAVE COUNTED AT and community events. LEAST 25 KNOWN The Aleutian Islands chain is made up PREHISTORIC of approximately 100 islands in a 1,250 mile range, separating the Bering Sea VILLAGE SITES to the north and Pacific Ocean to the south. Volcanic, foggy, and windswept, WITHIN A 2-MILE these islands have been home to the RADIUS OF THE Unangan (also known as Aleut) culture for thousands of years. Given the harsh DUTCH HARBOR climatic condition of sea life, it is not surprising that the Unangan developed AIRPORT” and shaped their culture to co-exist with the unique environment that defines the Aleutian Islands. Ioann Veniaminov (1797-1879), a Russian Orthodox priest and the Unangan’s first ethnographer, identified adaptability as one of the key cultural characteristics that enabled the Unangan people to develop and sustain a complex maritime lifestyle for at least 10,000 years. Academic research on the Aleutian Islands reaches back to the late 19th century, and prehistoric cultural development is continuously explored through anthropological studies and archaeological fieldwork to date. Aleutian archaeologists have counted at least 25 known prehistoric village sites within a 2-mile radius of the Dutch Harbor Airport, and there are doubtless many more sites waiting 8 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 to be discovered and documented. Chert and The adaptation of indigenous language, obsidian projectile points, worked and decorated traditions and subsistence skills that are many bone root picks, ivory needles, and whale bone centuries old are continued today through bowls are just a sampling of the artifacts from native culture camps, exhibitions, publications, these archaeological excavations and research. that are yours to view and enjoy at “CHERT AND OBSIDIAN The Museum the Museum of the Aleutians. By works with local analyzing these objects, one can PROJECTILE POINTS, artisans, scientists, come closer to understanding how and WORKED AND DECORATED anthropologists, the Unangan people thrived in the linguists to help Aleutians. BONE ROOT PICKS, IVORY preserve the time-honored The most important survival skills and method for early Unangan culture NEEDLES, AND WHALE traditions was subsistence living--surviving off of the the land and natural environment- BONE BOWLS ARE JUST Aleutians’ first and consisted of understanding inhabitants, and utilizing every aspect of A SAMPLING OF THE as well as to island topography. Kayaks, called ARTIFACTS FROM keep abreast iqyaks or ikyaadak in Unangam of the most current Tunuu (the Aleut language), were ARCHAEOLOGICAL scientific research commonly used for hunting marine passing through mammals, such as seals, whales, and EXCAVATIONS” our neighborhood. sea otters, in the dangerous open seas. Ethnographic studies suggest that all parts The Museum also works closely in partnership of an animal were incorporated into daily life, as with the University of Alaska Fairbanks Marine evidenced by the archaeological record as well as Advisory Program, helping to bridge the gap by the continuing oral tradition to this day. Gut between scientific biological research and the parkas, or kamleikas, were made by sewing seal local community by hosting the Forum of Alaska or sea lion intestine together, capitalizing on the Marine Issues lecture series, which is open to material’s waterproofing and weather-protective the public. It is through endeavors such as these capabilities. Kamleikas are still made today, and that we can strive to better understand this examples of these are on permanent display in exceptional part of the world. the Museum’s Special Collections Gallery. MOTA This gut parka (kamleika) was primarily made of seal, sea lion or walrus intestine, and was used for waterproof protection while kayaking or for tide pool hunting and bird egg collecting. When dry, the gut parka is not very flexible and tears easily. When wet, the gut becomes soft and flexible and fits the wearer’s body. Photographs Courtesy of MOTA - The Museum of the Aleutians all others by CVB Staff COME SEE OUR NEW PERMANENT EXHIBIT GALLERY Crossroads of the North Pacific www.aleutians.org P 907.581.5150 F 907.581.6682 314 SALMON WAY, UNALASKA, AK 99685 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 9 CVB The CATHEDRAL of the HOLY ASCENSION of CHRIST When a visitor is planning a trip to the City of Unalaska and the International Port of Dutch Harbor, more likely than not a photograph of the Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of Christ has crossed his or her desktop. The cathedral, the oldest cruciform-style Orthodox church in North America, stands as a sentry on the front beach and is the most photographed landmark in the Aleutian Islands. The cathedral was completed in 1896 and stands on grounds where Saints have walked and that have housed Orthodox chapels since 1808. Surprisingly, within the cathedral are portions of the older churches that are the history of the site. Specifically, the chapel dedicated to St. Sergei of Radonez houses the original Iconostas from the 1808 chapel, with the exception of the royal doors which are from the church built by Fr. John Veniaminov in 1825. The chapel originally dedicated to St. Innocent of Irkutsk, houses the Iconostas from the 1825 chapel that Fr. John built, with the exception of the royal doors which are from the original chapel constructed in 1808. The site, declared a National Historic Landmark in the 1970’s, has undergone a restoration which has removed it from the listing as one of the twelve most endangered historic landmarks in the world. Phase two of the restoration, which has been ongoing since 1997, includes the restoration of the nearly 700 icons and relics within the cathedral. The cathedral and the church grounds have been a cornerstone in the lives of the Unangan/Unangas since the introduction of orthodoxy. Although the church has been in Unalaska for only a brief moment in time considering the documented 9,000-year history of Unangan occupation, the church has solidified its importance to the Unangan people over the ensuing years and the tumultuous times of “Americanization” and, especially, during the evacuation of the indigenous population during World War II. The relationship began with Veniaminov’s protection of the people from the cruelty of enslavement, grew with his dedication to the artistic THE CATHEDRAL traits of the Unangan people and his belief AND THE CHURCH in the importance of GROUNDS tradition and culture. His HAVE BEEN A creation of an alphabet for CORNERSTONE Unangam Tunuu allowed IN THE LIVES OF the indigenous population to move forward in time, THE UNANGAN/ changing the way that they UNANGAS were able to document SINCE THE their own history. Over the INTRODUCTION years, the church has given OF ORTHODOXY. a sense of community when it was desperately needed, and the people have reciprocated with their unfailing faith and by being the caretakers of the physical church, maintaining the structure as best they could, even in times of total destitution. The Bishop’s House, a neighboring structure, was built in 1882 in San Francisco, dismantled and shipped to be reassembled in Unalaska for Bishop Nestor. Unfortunately, he was lost at sea on his way to Unalaska, and never lived in the house. The Bishop’s House is the only surviving remnant of a cluster of church buildings that once included a seminary and school. The Bishop’s House is slated for restoration during a third restoration phase planned by the Unalaska Parish. Still an important part of village life, regular services are held on Saturday evening at 6:30 and Sunday morning at 10:00. All are welcome to attend. Bear in mind that attendees stand during the services and the services are conducted in a mixture of English, Unangam tunuu, and Old Church Slavonic. This woodblock print, entitled “September Afternoon” by Ray Hudson depicts one of the restoration projects completed on the Russian Orthodox church in 1997. THE ORTHODOX CROSS HAS SEVERAL SYMBOLS IN IT 1 2 1 The top cross represents the sign saying “King of the Jews” ([ICXC] Greek for Jesus Christ), placed there by the Roman soldiers as a joke, but now regarded as the truth. 3 2 Second cross is the arm board to which Christ’s hands were nailed. 3 The third is the most important. It represents the foot board where Jesus’ legs were supported. This allowed the person being crucified to hold themselves upright and keeping them alive, until they were too tired and allowed themselves to suffocate. It also represented the fact that Jesus suffered on the cross, wrenching the board in his agony. This shows he was truly human, not a pain-free god. Lastly it represents the two other men crucified on the cross with Jesus. The man on the left did not believe and was sent down to hell, the man on the right believed and was sent to heaven. Therefore the third cross piece always points UP to Jesus’ right. Interpretation courtesy of Jeff Dickrell 10 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 11 PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR: UNALASKA AND ITS ROLE IN THE Chris Hladick, City Manager RUSSIA Fish and seafood products are shipped from Unalaska to markets around the world, both foreign and domestic. FISHERIES OF THE BERING SEA JAPAN Located just fifty miles from the Great Circle route to the Orient on the Bering Sea Coast, the community of Unalaska sits in the heart of the North Pacific and Bering Sea fisheries. The City of Unalaska, home to the International Port of Dutch Harbor, encompasses twenty-seven miles of ports and harbors, and is one of the busiest and most prosperous stretches of coastline in Alaska. u The Photograph courtesy of Daniel Hees Historically our community has benefited from of offshore catcher processors, followed the rich fishery resources of the Bering Sea. by onshore development with the building For the past 24 years, Unalaska has been the of large multi-species processing plants in nation’s number one commercial fishing port Unalaska, Akutan, and Kodiak. in terms of pounds landed. In The Pollock fishery in the Bering Sea FOR THE 2012, Unalaska’s commercial quickly became the nation’s largest and fishing fleet landed 752 million PAST 24 most valuable fishery, producing annual pounds of fish and shellfish at YEARS, harvests of 3 billion pounds, worth over the port of Dutch Harbor, at a $1 billion. UNALASKA value of $214 million. During the In 2012, Alaska fishery landings totaled past 21 years Unalaska has been HAS BEEN THE 5.3 billion pounds, which was 55% either first or second in terms of NATION’S of the nation’s landings. Unalaska’s dollar value of product landed. NUMBER ONE landings accounted for 8% of the State In 2006, Unalaska broke its own of Alaska total and 4% of the nation’s national record with landings of COMMERCIAL landings. The seafood industry of the 911 million pounds valued at FISHING PORT Bering Sea is the economic engine for $165 million. the community. Unalaska’s processors and local businesses provide employment, processing and support services for approximately 300 licensed vessels that fish the Bering Sea / Aleutian Islands for Pollock, Pacific Cod, Halibut, Mackerel, Sole, Rockfish, Herring, Salmon, and various crab species. The seafood industry of the region is also a major economic force for the State of Alaska. It is the state’s largest private sector employer, providing over 40,000 jobs, and is second only to the oil and gas industry in providing revenues of over $100 million to Alaska’s general fund. Unalaska is unique among Alaska’s coastal communities in the support services it provides for the Bering Sea fleet. Support services encompass a wide range of businesses such as diesel repair, electrical and electronics, freight forwarding, hydraulic, refrigeration services, logistical support, marine pilots/ tugs, maritime agencies, gear replacement and repair, vessel repair, stevedoring, vehicle rentals, warehousing, and welding. No other community in the region has the capacity to support commercial fishing in the Bering Sea/ Aleutian Islands. In Unalaska, we realize that the health and sustainability of the fisheries resource of the Bering Sea / Aleutian Islands is critical to our community’s survival. We strongly support sustainable and well-managed fisheries that have been and will continue to be an economic foundation bringing prosperity and growth for Unalaska for years to come. Frank Kelty City of Unalaska’s Natural Resource Analyst 12 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Port of Dutch Harbor, located on Unalaska Island, has a rich Aleut (Unangan) history dating back at least 10,000 years. There have been many habitations near the bay due to the natural protection of the sand spit that forms Dutch Harbor. In the 18th century, Russian fur traders first sailed here. Port of Dutch Harbor is the only deep draft port that is free of ice year round on the west coast of Alaska from Unimak Pass, west to Attu, north to the Bering Straits, and south to Canada. Unalaska is unique among Alaska’s coastal communities in the full array of support services provided. Because of the wide variety of services provided, no other community in the region has Unalaska’s capacity to support shipping and commercial fishing. BERING SEA UNALASKA u The RESOURCES In 1976 Congress passed The MagnusonStevens Act, increasing the United States’ Exclusive Economic Zone (EEZ) from 3 miles off shore to 200 miles off shore, essentially eliminating foreign fishing fleets from fishing the Bering Sea and Aleutian Islands. In the mid-1980s, the huge Pollock / Pacific Cod fisheries of the Bering Sea began to become Americanized, first through the development ALASKA DEEP DRAFT, ICE FREE PORT PACIFIC OCEAN u Arctic Exploration in the Beaufort Sea and the Chukchi Sea will have a significant impact on this community. Dutch Harbor is becoming a major staging area in support of Shell Oil’s exploration efforts to the north, and will continue to be important to the industry if they move from oil exploration to production in the years to come. Dutch Harbor became a sea base for amphibious planes and submarines, again because of the natural port features of deep water, protected bays, and being free of ice year round. During the war, there were 9,000 troops stationed at various forts on the island. Evidence of the military’s presence is visible today, with many bunkers and WWII era buildings, some of which are still in use. CVB u During WWII, SEATTLE u With the advent of increased shipping activity along the Northern Sea Route, it is expected that the Port of Dutch Harbor will also be involved as a key element of shipping cargo over the pole. As the ice melts, more shipping companies will seek to take advantage of the cost savings to be realized in shipping cargo over the pole. u The Port of Dutch Harbor is intensively planning for the future and the City of Unalaska is interested in meeting the demands of industry in the most efficient way possible. It is expected that the Port of Dutch Harbor will continue to be a vibrant economic hub far into the future. THANK YOU Port of DUTCH HARBOR FOR 10 GREAT SEASONS! of Pink salmon or humpback salmon is the smallest and most abundant of the Pacific salmon. In the ocean, Pink salmon are bright silver fish. After returning to their spawning streams, their coloring changes to pale grey on the back with a yellowish-white belly (although some turn an overall dull green color). The fish is characterized by a white mouth with black gums, no teeth on the tongue, large oval-shaped black spots on the back, a v-shaped tail, and an anal fin with 13-17 soft rays. During their spawning migration, males develop a pronounced humped back, hence their nickname “humpies”. Pink salmon average 4.8 pounds in weight. The maximum recorded size was 30 inches and 15 pounds. NALASKA ~ NO SE RV ~U R N FREIGHT TIA EU AL - RENTALS - ~ PINK SALMON: FRESH AND SALTWATER ES PHONE 581-2010 VEHICLE RENTAL SERVICE A The chum salmon may also be known as Dog salmon or Keta salmon, and is often marketed under the name Silverbrite salmon. Most Chum salmon spawn in small streams and intertidal zones. Some Chum travel more than 2,000 miles up the Yukon River. Chum fry migrate out to sea from March through July, almost immediately after becoming free swimmers. They spend one to three years traveling very long distances in the ocean. These are the last salmon to spawn (November to January). They die about two weeks after they return to the freshwater to spawn. They utilize the lower tributaries of the watershed and tend to build nests in protected depressions in the gravel, in shallow edges of the watercourse or at the tail end of deep pools. The female lays eggs in their nests, which could be up to 4000 eggs. Then the male sprays sperm on the eggs and the female then covers the eggs with gravel. IC SK CHUM SALMON: FRESH AND SALTWATER North Port Auto Center R ~ ALA Kelp Greenling is found on kelp beds and on sand bottoms in the rocky inshore areas of the northern Pacific. They feed on crustaceans, polychaete worms, brittle stars, mollusks, and small fish. The young are food for large predators such as Ling Cod and Halibut. They are frequently caught by hook and line, fishing from shore or skiff, as well as speared by divers. They are commonly caught by fishermen targeting other species, and are often viewed as a pest, despite its scrappy fight and tasty flesh. They are easily caught around rocky cliffs and kelp beds, and respond to a wide variety of natural and artificial baits. - SERVICE - NORTHPORTRENTALS.NET PHONE 581-2010 FAX 581-2351 TIRE SALES FLEET MAINTENANCE FREIGHT EXPEDITING FULL SERVICE AUTO REPAIR RBO The halibut is the largest flat fish, averaging 24–30 pounds, but a catch as large as 730 pounds have been reported around the world. They are gray-black on the top side with an off-white underbelly and have very small scales invisible to the naked eye embedded in their skin. Halibut feed on almost any animal they can fit into their mouths. Juvenile halibut feed on small crustaceans and other bottom-dwelling organisms. Halibut live at depths ranging from a few to hundreds of meters. Although they spend most of their time near the bottom, halibut may move up in the water column to feed. HA Though similar to, and often confused with, trout, Dolly Varden are actually a char. Both freshwater-resident and sea-run populations occur in both the northern and southern forms. Freshwater-resident Dolly Varden are often dwarfed (maturing at 3–6 inches), and are most-commonly found in small headwater streams without easy access to the ocean, or in landlocked lakes and ponds. Dolly Varden may also choose to remain in fresh water if they have access to a large, productive lake or river, in which they may grow to a similar size as searun Dolly Varden. H Flounder are a group of flatfish species. They are found at the bottom of coastal lagoons and estuaries of the Northern Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Flounder ambush their prey, feeding at soft muddy areas of the sea bottom, near bridge piles, docks and coral reefs. According to Seafood Watch, Pacific flounder and sole are currently on the list of seafood that sustainabilityminded consumers should be encouraged to eat versus its Atlantic counterpart. T KELP GREENLING: SALTWATER R E N TA L S ~ DU HALIBUT: SALTWATER RT DOLLY VARDEN: FRESH AND SALTWATER PO FLOUNDER: SALTWATER TH Pacific cod has dark spots or patterns on the sides, a paler belly, a long chin barbell and dusky fins with white edges. They grow quickly, up to over 6 feet in length. Pacific cod live on the shelf edge and upper slope in waters 300 to over 800 feet deep during the winter and move to shallower waters in the summer. Larvae and small juveniles are found throughout the water column; large juveniles and adults live near the ocean floor and prefer habitats of mud, sand, and clay. C COD: SALTWATER RED SALMON: FRESH & SALTWATER Red salmon, also called Sockeye salmon or Blueback salmon, is found in the Northern Pacific Ocean and rivers discharging into it. Red salmon is the third most common Pacific salmon species, after Pink and Chum salmon. They are blue tinged with silver in color while living in the ocean. Red salmon spawn mostly in streams whose watersheds include a lake. The young fish, known as fry, spend up to three years in the freshwater lake before migrating to the ocean. Some stay in the lake and do not migrate. Migratory fish spend from one to four years in salt water, and thus are four to six years old when they return to spawn between July and August. In rivers without lakes, many of the young move to the ocean soon after hatching. These salmon mature after one to four years in the ocean. SILVER SALMON: FRESH AND SALTWATER During their ocean phase, Silver salmon, also known as Coho salmon have silver sides and dark-blue backs. During their spawning phase, their jaws and teeth become hooked. After entering fresh water, they develop bright-red sides, bluish-green heads and backs, dark bellies and dark spots on their backs. Sexually maturing fish develop light-pink or rose shading along the belly, and the males may show a slight arching of the back. Mature adults have a pronounced red skin color with darker backs and average 28 inches and 7 to 11 pounds, occasionally reaching up to 36 pounds. Mature females may be darker than males, with both showing a pronounced hook on the nose. 14 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 KING SALMON: FRESH & SALTWATER The King Salmon, formally known as the Chinook salmon is the largest species in the Pacific salmon family. They may spend as little as one but up to eight years in the ocean (averaging from three to four years) before returning to their home rivers to spawn. King Salmon spawn in larger and deeper waters than other salmon species and can be found on the spawning nests from September through to December. After laying eggs, females guard the nest from four to 25 days before dying, while males continue to seek additional mates. MISS ALYSSA BERING SEA EXCURSIONS - CHARTER VESSEL - Captain Jimmer McDonald 1 877 672 9772 w w w. m i s s a l y s s a . c o m • PRIVATE RESEARCH • BIRDING & WHALE WATCHING • GOVERNMENT RESEARCH • EXTREME SPORTS • FREIGHT FORWARDING • FISHING • FILMING & PHOTOGRAPHY P. O . B O X 9 2 0 4 5 2 D U T C H H A R B O R , A K 9 9 6 9 2 ( 9 0 7 ) 5 8 1 - 1 3 8 6 OR (907) 581-3386 MAP OF UNALASKA 1 UNALASKA BAY MAKUSHIN VOLCANO AMAKNAK ISLAND NORTHPORT RENTALS AMAKNAK ISLAND PEAK | 5906 ft | 2036 m WWII R FORT SCHWATKA BERING SEA VE EA BC RENTALS T LE IN RED FISH ELECTRONICS B MORRIS COVE UGADAGA BAY PYRAMID PEAK MAKUSHIN BAY N 15 Unalaska PACIFIC OCEAN 00 MT. BALLYHOO PEAK | 1634 ft | 498 m 10 AL UN BERING SEA D AN SL AI K AS 2 WWII MUSEUM 4 LFS 5 AMELIA’S RESTAURANT 6 GCI 00 SAFEWAY CHERNOFSKI 50 HUMPY COVE 0 FERRY 7 GRAND ALEUTIAN HOTEL 8 DUTCH HARBOR POST OFFICE 9 AK SHIP SUPPLY PACIFIC OCEAN SUMMER BAY DUTCH HARBOR WWII KEYBANK WWII 10 AMAKNAK ISLAND 1 ILIULIUK BAY 11 WWII FORT SCHWATKA MORRIS COVE 15 12 00 MT. BALLYHOO 10 UNALASKA ISLAND 3 4 DUTCH HARBOR WWII WWII AIRPORT HARBOR VIEW BAR & GRILL 14 IFHS - CLINIC 15 ALEUTIAN CHIROPRACTIC 16 CITY HALL 17 UNALASKA POST OFFICE 18 UNALASKA LIBRARY 19 UNALASKA, 0 ILIULIUK BAY 13 0 11 50 10 SUMMER BAY 12 BA Y RO AD 10 00 10 00 9 HUMPY COVE 0 50 8 CAROLYN REED 00 50 5 MUSEUM OF THE ALEUTIANS ART & FRAMING PEAK | 1634 ft | 498 m 6 OUNALASHKA CORPORATION [LAND USE PERMITS] 2 AIRPORT 7 AIRPORT RESTAURANT ER BUNKER HILL SU M M PEAK | 400 ft | 121 m WWII 150 AD 13 RO PEAK | 1651 ft | 503 m 20 TAIN CAP CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU 0 150 MT. NEWHALL CAPTAIN’S BAY PEAK | 1651 ft | 503 m KUCB Radio Station 1000 15 00 RO AD WWII 18 PCR - COMMUNITY CENTER AY R 15 00 MT. PYRAMID 40 OVERLAND DRIVE 1500 PEAK | 2320 ft | 707 m 20 UG AD A 15 10 UNALASKA ISLAND 00 L AI TR 00 PYRA MID T R A I L 10 00 0 0 20 4th & BROADWAY SHOP 21 ARCTIC CHIROPRACTIC 22 DUTCH HARBOR FAST FOOD 23 THE HOLY ASCENSION CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST 00 CAPTAIN’S BAY 15 50 0 A G CAP TAIN ’S B 40 M ID 24 PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR, 0 RA 19 17 50 PY 21 16 OA D 14 22 00 ’S BA Y RO BA Y 15 M 23 WWII SU M PEAK | 400 ft | 121 m 15 AD WWII ER BUNKER HILL 0 MT. NEWHALL 10 00 50 50 0 00 0 CAPTAIN’S BAY 40 UGADAGA BAY 24 1000 MEMORIAL PARK 0 BIRDING in the ALEUTIANS BD SG COMMON REDPOLL AB TUFTED PUFFIN SG CORMORANT SG BALD EAGLE SG BLACK HEADED GULL BRAMBLING SG WILSON’S SNIPE SG SG Birders around the world know the Aleutian Islands as a spectacular destination! During the summer, an estimated forty million seabirds nest throughout the Aleutians. Our ice free coastal waters shelter tremendous flocks of wintering waterfowl, and spring and fall migrations regularly bring Asian strays into the islands. Photographs Courtesy of: SG - Suzi Golodoff, BD - Brian Dixon, AB - Albert Burnham, all others are provided by the CVB staff 18 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 DIPPER SG The EXTRA MILE -TOURS - SG SG WANDERING TATTLER SG SG B L AC K N ROCK PTARMIGAN TAILED GULL SG SG W SG BLACK OYSTERCATCHER Experience the Aleutians’ natural beauty & relive the history of this remarkable Community with local owner/operator Bobbie Lekanoff RO C K SANDPIPER E W TUFTED DUCK SG W ~Suzi Golodoff Author & Aleutian Naturalist LAYSAN ALBATROSS N Aside from the pelagic species, almost all our birds are apt to be found close to town along the roadways, so the birding is always great (even if the weather isn’t!) ROSY-FINCH AMERICAN E Bald Eagles, year round residents, are always seen about town, and are tallied in the hundreds during the community’s Christmas Bird Count. The challenge of winter birding has its rewards in the great flocks of waterfowl and sea ducks filling the local bays. Aleutian specialties such as the Emperor Goose, whose entire world population winters here in the Aleutians, and the handsome Steller’s Eider, are easily seen and photographed from the roadways. Scoters, Long-tailed Ducks, and Harlequin Ducks are also very common. Fresh water ducks include the Eurasian subspecies of Greenwinged Teal and large flocks of scaup which on occasion include closely related Tufted Ducks, casuals from Asia. During a winter walk around town, you may see Peregrine Falcons chasing Snow Buntings, and Rock Ptarmigan come down when the snows get deep. You can also see ptarmigan with their broods during summer months. GRAY-CROWNED SG N A handful of songbirds are year round residents here, among them are ComALEUTIANS mon Redpoll, Snow Bunting, American Dipper, and the Aleutian subspecies of Song Sparrow, Pacific Wren and Gray-Crowned Rosy Finch. Our breeding birds include Lapland Longspur, American Pipit, Bank Swallow and Savannah Sparrow. Accidentals and casual migrants include Brambling, Wagtails, Warblers, and even the occasional Hummingbird and Robin. THROUGHOUT THE Among shorebirds are the resident Rock Sandpiper and Black Oystercatcher, and the breeding Least Sandpiper and Semipalmated Plover. If your timing is right, you’ll see Bartailed Godwits in the spring, and during fall migration Ruddy Turnstones, Wandering Tattlers, and Sharp-tailed Sandpiper. SG SG N Readily seen during the summer months are all the alcids; puffins, murres, guillemots, auklets and murrelets. This is the time to seek the tiny Whiskered Auklet, found only in the Aleutian and Commander Islands and Central Kuriles. It is possible to see them from the ferry crossing the Pass between Akutan and Unalaska Islands, or by taking a charter to the nearby Baby Islands. Be advised to give yourself extra ‘weather days’ for getting out on the water, as gales are frequent even during the summer. Other offshore species include shearwaters, petrels, fulmars, Laysan and Black-footed Albatross, and occasionally Short-tailed Albatross and Redlegged Kittiwakes. Easily seen nearDURING THE SUMMER shore are Black-legged Kittiwakes and AN ESTIMATED FORTY three species of cormorant, including the Red-faced Cormorant, seen only MILLION SEABIRDS NEST in Alaska and NE Asia. S H E A RWAT E R S SW Unalaska, which is much more accessible than Attu or Shemya, gives birders the opportunity to add to their “life lists” a number of Beringian endemics, species seldom seen outside the Aleutians. A leisurely walk around town, a drive or tour along the road system, or a hike along the coast will take you into the varied habitats of a broad list of birds. Layers, light rain gear and waterproof boots are always a good idea. AMERICAN PIPIT S SG EMPEROR GOOSE SG HARLEQUIN DUCKS COMMON LOON SSPARROW ONG www.UnalaskaDutchHarborTour.com CALL OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR TOUR OPTIONS 907 581 1859 TELEPHONE xmitours@arctic.net EMAIL 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 19 907 391 6171 CELL PHONE SEA ADVENTURES ADVENTURE Whether you are exploring by sea kayak or aboard a larger passenger vessel, taking in the spectacular coastal scenery of Unalaska and neighboring islands from the water is a must-see experience. Stunning green sea cliffs adorned by delicate cascade waterfalls tower above habitat so rich that sea birds nest by the tens of thousands. This is extreme Bering Sea birding at its very best! Get out your life list and join a local marine bird tour. Just offshore the magic comes alive as immense sky-darkening clouds of short tailed shearwaters feed in frenzied fellowship among dozens of humpback whales. RECREATION JEFF HANCOCK Whether you are a first-time visitor or you are planning your next trip to Alaska, the Aleutian Islands offer some of the very best chances for a truly ‘wild’ adventure experience. Free from other people in many readily accessible recreation areas, you can truly have a wilderness experience that is all your own. It takes time to learn a place, especially one with such vast physical scale and so many possibilities. Having a range of clothing layers and a warm hat with you will help keep you dry and comfortable and prepared for whatever the day brings. M A P Maps of accessible hiking trail routes from Unalaska/Dutch Harbor are available from the Ounalashka Corporation. Keep in mind that many of the trails are unmarked and not maintained in any way. In some cases there is little or no physical evidence of a trail or it may suddenly disappear completely. SJ WEATHER IS ALWAYS CHANGING BE FLEXIBLE WITH YOUR PLANS Allowing enough days for your trip is the best option for a successful and satisfying Aleutian Islands adventure. Weather delays for flights are common between Anchorage and Unalaska, and can also make it difficult to extend your trip from Unalaska to smaller surrounding island villages. Summer time fog, rain and wind can persist for days at a time. July and August are typically the driest months, but regardless of when you visit come prepared for many potential and abrupt weather changes in a single day. Instead of having a rigid schedule or inflexible plan in mind for your trip, be ready with a few options and prepared for changing activities based on what the weather will allow. Having a range of clothing layers and a warm hat with you will help keep you dry and comfortable and prepared for whatever the day brings. 20 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Lengthier backcountry hikes and climbs ranging from a few days to a week or more extend to the heart of Unalaska Island’s eighty mile length. A water taxi trip across A tip to following these trails is to look farther ahead and you may see a zigzag streak reappear along the ridge side in the distance ahead of you. On a clear day, the treeless vistas enable you to see every detail of the landscape unfolding in front of you and allow you to find a route to your own liking. Scree slopes are commonly encountered and snow slopes persist along some trails late into the summer, requiring careful steps. A few historic trails are frequented enough that they are quite easy to follow. PLAN EXTRA DAYS EXPLORING the ISLAND Unalaska Bay puts you on route to the glacial cap of Makushin, an active volcano and the highest point on the island. Or heft your pack and follow the traditional portage routes between the island’s three largest inlets. JD JW KM Photographs Courtesy of: SJ - Stephanie Joyce, JW - Jake Whitaker, KM - Kerry McNamara, All others are provided by CVB staff. JUST LANDED IN UNALASKA? WE CAN HELP YOU GET YOUR BEARINGS! CLOSE TO TOWN If you only have a day or two to spend in Unalaska a car or mountain bike rental will enable you to quickly get to the starting point of some exceptional hikes. A paved bike trail along Airport Beach Road brings you to the base of a quick hike up Bunker Hill; with its historic WWII remains and stunning 360 degree views of town and surrounding waterways. Mountain bikers seeking more challenging terrain will find an extensive network of dirt and gravel roadways winding many miles through scenic valleys and mountain pass switchbacks. COMMUNITY TV & RADIO LOCAL NEWS COVERAGE VIDEO CLIPS OF UNALASKA’S PLACES AND ACTIVITIES, VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES, BUSINESS, JOBS, HOUSING, & FOR SALE LISTINGS KUCB 89.7 FM RADIO CHANNEL 8 TV WWW.KUCB.ORG 5th Broadway, Downtown Unalaska 907.581.1888 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 21 large populations in rural Alaska. In the WORMWOOD Aleutian area, we have relied upon the traditional harvest of natural resources for thousands of years and have passed this way of life, with its long-established culture and values, or the right way to live as human beings, down through generations. Medicinal knowledge and use of native plants requires precise knowledge of the environment, the seasonal patterns of medicinal plants, where they grow, when to collect them (at their most potent stage), how to prepare them, and how and in what UNANGAM HITNISANGIN dosages to administer them. In our region SG of the Aleutians, the Unangan used this Wormwood, or Artemisia unalaskensis; A. globularia; A. tilesii, A. arctica, was used extensively for diminishing pain from rheumatism and arthritis. The leaves and stems were used either fresh or dried to switch the skin during a steam bath. The volatile oils from the plant entered the bloodstream through the open pores in the skin, easily passing through the vessel barriers. Oils and salves were also made from the plant for joint and muscle aches, as well as infections and rashes. A tea was made from the plant and taken sparingly, as a cure for chest ailments such as bronchitis and asthma. Its tall, leafy, somewhat silvery appearance is used to fill in flower arrangements. knowledge to cure illnesses, alleviate pain, heal burns and bone fractures, and fight BR infection. Traditional medicine is intrinsically The absolute beauty of the orchids on holistic. Conventional medicine is only Unalaska Island, including Cypripedium beginning to conceptualize looking at health, healing, and medicine as a complete circle. ALEUT PLANTS guttatum (Lady’s Slipper), Dactylorhiza aristata (Purple Orchid), and the extremely rare Platanthera tipuloides, or So when I see plants, or simply discuss Bering Bog Orchid, are not to be missed. them, I immediately think of their value, not The medicinal qualities of certain in terms of simple beauty, but to solve and Sharon Svarny-Livingston LADY’S SLIPPER orchids are no longer remembered. BL balance health needs. The variety of plants on the islands of the Aleutians, and particularly on Unalaska and Amaknak, will amaze most visitors who are fortunate to visit during summer months. Overseeing all of the showy plant activity is the beach rye grass, a sentinel of great stature and elegance, which when used by the Unangan/Unangas, showed its traits of great utilitarian strength in the work Starting at the beach and reaching the very tips of the mountains, baskets and mats that were made from the absolute green will shock the eye. And, if you take a trek from the the grass. Then it surpassed that strength beach to the tips of those mountains, you will witness a rich progression with the delicate weaving of the smaller, of plants, some extremely sturdy, some incredibly delicate, and all SG obviously well adapted to the environment. Habitats seen are typical of those seen in most coastal zones – coastal beach, meadow, marsh, sea-side cliff, fresh and saltwater lagoon, stream, lake, higher slope and high rocky cliff. Probably one of the most amazing, and by far the easiest methods of discovering the plant life of an Aleutian island, is to simply take a seat in the tundra. You will be astounded with the number of wildflowers, mosses, and grasses within a one foot square area, completely within the grasp of your hand. Aside from the simple beauty of the plant life and the importance of plants to the wildlife of the area, plants have always been important to the indigenous people who have inhabited the Aleutians contact era, such as decorative baskets, wall Medicinal knowledge of the plants is the one aspect of Unangan healing capabilities that survived the advent of outside contact. “Unangan used this knowledge of native plants to cure illnesses, alleviate pain, heal burns and bone fractures, and fight infection.” for millennia. Though too numerous to list here as hangings, and wallets. Walking from the water, one of the first plants you will encounter is Honckenya PUTCHKY FLOWER The trio of umbels most closely associated on Unalaska Island, Ligusticum scoticum L. ssp. Hultenii, (Beach Lovage), Angelica ludicda L., (St. Paul Putchky), and Heracleum lanatum, (Putchky), each has an edible and medicinal component. Beach Lovage is the plant used as wild parsley, though it is much more Absent today are the advanced peploides, locally known as Scurvy Grass. It surgical abilities of the Unangan/ was the plant that saved many a Russian Unangas, as well as the practice of explorer from certain death, as it provided acupuncture. The demise of both huge concentrations of vitamin C needed was due to the devastation of the to cure or keep scurvy at bay. Although it population, from an estimated 15,000 tastes best as a young plant, even the bitter and joints, for clearing up infections, to 25,000, to a mere 1,875 within old plants will give you the vitamins that you and, most surprising, healing the burn 60 years of contact with European need. It was also used as a good healer for invaders. skin conditions, so was typically made into As a part of most indigenous lifestyles, subsistence fishing, there are hundreds, they include both medicinal and edible plants. more decorative items, common in the post The many uses of the Achillea borealis (Yarrow), from blood coagulator to blocker of the common cold makes one wonder about the use of plants as medicines and how the uses came about. Many elders remember the fragrance of yarrow tea steeping in their childhood homes and will sometimes just drink a cup without having any ailments. The sweet smell of the blooming Sanguisorba stipulata (Sitka Burnet), and its equally sweet tea from the leaves that is used in the morning as a “pick-me-up” contrasts with the stinky fragrance of Fritillaria camschatcensis (the Chocolate Lily), and its edible roots. Called a wild rice, the roots were collected, boiled, and stored in oil for winter eating. They could also be dried and ground for use as a “flour”. hunting, and gathering sustain the lives of Photographs Courtesy of: BR - Brett Richardson, SG - Suzi Golodoff, BL - Bobbie Lekanoff, all others are provided by CVB staff. 22 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 exciting than boring old parsley. It has a definite peppery flavor which lends itself extremely well in spicing seafood. Medicinally, the seeds are used to make YARROW a tea for indigestion. Angelica is prized for its ability at soothing sore muscles of the related Putchky plant. Cow Parsnip, or Putchky as we call it, is a wonderful wild celery. Care must be taken when gathering and eating, as an ointment. Scurvy Grass is a wonderful the sap reacts to sunlight and will burn beach stabilizer and can be used in gardens your skin. Roots of the Putchky plant for a great ground cover. were used as a poultice to help draw SG out pain. 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 23 BL CALENDAR of EVENTS FEBRUARY JANUARY ALEUTIAN ARTS COUNCIL ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP MEETING & AUCTION MUSEUM OF THE ALEUTIANS ANNUAL CHOCOLATE EXTRAVAGANZA CHANNEL 8 AUCTION JG ANNUAL POLAR BEAR RUN PCR MARCH APRIL USAFV SOUP-OFF AUCTION LIONS CLUB EASTER BREAKFAST ANNUAL CVB WINE EVENT ANNUAL COMMUNITY ART SHOW Belinda Sunderland SPRING COFFEE HOUSE MAY Manager, Unalaska KeyCenter UNALASKA CLEAN-UP WEEK JUNE JUST DESSERTS (CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERT) (907) 581 3311 (800) 539 2968 SUMMER SOLSTICE 5K LIONS CLUB MEMORIAL DAY CELEBRATION WWII IN THE ALEUTIANS PRESENTATION ILIULIUK CLINIC COMMUNITY BBQ Belinda_L_Sunderland@keybank.com DG MISSOULA CHILDREN’S THEATRE 487 Salmon Way, Suite 101, Unalaska, AK AUGUST PCR KUCB’S TUNDRA GOLF CLASSIC ANNUAL WOMEN’S CONFERENCE HEART OF THE ALEUTIANS FESTIVAL JULY SANTA CRUZAN PARADE BOBBY JOHNSON SUMMER BAY CLASSIC BIKE/RUN ^ CAMP QUNGAAYUX 4TH OF JULY PARADE & FIREWORKS DISPLAY BALLYHOO RUN PCR KeyBank Red Fish Electronics (UNANGAN CULTURE CAMP) KUCB KUCB RADIO FALL COFFEE HOUSE UNALASKA TRIATHLON PLEDGE DRIVE KUCB Providing Electronics to the Aleutians COLOR RUN ANNUAL CHRISTMAS BIRD COUNT MODERN, ENERGY-EFFICIENT FACILITIES that include gymnasiums, libraries, and an auditorium. Offering a VARIETY OF CO-CURRICULAR PROGRAMS including swim team, wrestling, volleyball, basketball, cross-country, native youth olympics, band, art club, student government, battle of the books, and much more! COMMUNITY SCHOOLS with caring and qualified staff, small class sizes, high academic standards, motivated students, and parental support. www.ucsd.net See our Store at the Airport Parking Lot MOONLIGHT MADNESS FAIR PCR RANKS IN TOP 5% of Alaska school districts based on Alaska’s Standards Based Assessments. ck Ph ones! Follow us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/redfishelectronics COMMUNITY CHRISTMAS CANTATA ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR TURKEY TROT 5K FULLY ACCREDITED by AdvancEd. Offering a rigorous core curriculum in language arts and math as well as courses in music, art, & world languages. Unangan culture, career and technical education, physical education, alternative education, special education, and English as a second language. We U nlo FIREFIGHTERS BALL MUSEUM AUCTION AWARDED 2010 BRONZE MEDAL in U.S. News and World Report’s “America’s Best Schools” issue. Computers-Flat Screen HDTV’s-PhonesiPhones-iPads-Chargers-iPods-MP3 PlayersAndroid Tablets- Headphones DECEMBER NOVEMBER 2011 NATIONAL BLUE RIBBON SCHOOL AWARD MODERN INSTRUCTIONAL TECHNOLOGY including interactive white boards, high speed internet, laptop carts, and computer labs. OCTOBER SEPTEMBER 2013 NATIONAL BLUE RIBBON SCHOOL NOMINATION NEW YEARS EVE FIREWORK DISPLAY JT rockxdude@gmail.com 907.359.2205 Vic Fisher John P. Conwell, Superintendent Jim Wilson Principal | Jeannie Schiaffo Principal Photographs courtesy of: KUCB Radio, DG - Delores Gregory, JG - Josh Good, JT - Johanna Tellman, PCR - Parks Culture Recreation Staff, all others provided by CVB staff. 24 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 25 MARINE WILDLIFE Reid Brewer Associate Professor/ Unalaska Agent Alaska Sea Grant Marine Advisory Program School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences University of Alaska Fairbanks PHOTO COURTESY OF DON WILSON/PORT OF SEATTLE CVB RB Photographs courtesy of RB - Reid Brewer, SJ - Stephanie Joyce, and CVB Staff “Endangered Steller sea lions and threatened Northern sea otters are regular sights near Unalaska, preying upon local fish and invertebrate species.” The Bering Sea and Aleutian Islands are home to 450 species of fish and invertebrates, 50 species of sea birds and at least 25 species of marine mammals. The biological productivity of this area is driven by the seasonal differences in exposure to sunlight and availability of nutrients. The long summer days allow phytoplankton to grow, while winter storms raise nutrients from the sea floor. This combination of sunlight and nutrients allows for a prolific food web which results in a diverse and abundant ecosystem. Fish and invertebrate species in Unalaska are often seen as the result of sport and subsistence fisheries. Commonly captured fish species include Pacific halibut, Pacific cod, many species of salmon and rockfish, sculpin, greenling, various species of flatfish and others. Many species of invertebrates can be seen on intertidal beach walks and others are captured in various fishing gear. Local invertebrate species include Red King crab, Tanner crab, Razor clams, Butter clams, Gumboot chitons, Shield limpets, Blue mussels, and north Pacific giant octopus. Intertidal invertebrates include a vast array of seastars, urchins, anemones, snails and seaweeds. Each summer in the Bering Sea, 40 million to 50 million seabirds feed and make nests. The abundance of seabirds is often driven by the availability of food sources, migration routes, and changes in the rates of mortality. Near Unalaska, the predominant species include Bald eagles, ravens, cormorants, guillemots, and various species of gulls. Other species sometimes seen include horned and tufted puffins, murres, shearwaters, fulmars, auklets, kittiwakes and species of albatross. Oystercatchers are prevalent throughout Unalaska as are several species of sea ducks like the Spectacled and Steller’s eiders. Unalaska also plays host to a suite of marine mammals all capitalizing on the prolific food web. Humpback whales feed in Unalaska Bay in July and August before they migrate to their winter calving ground in Hawaii. Endangered Steller sea lions and threatened Northern sea otters are regular sights near Unalaska preying upon local fish and invertebrate species. Rare but occasional sightings include Harbor porpoises, Pacific white-sided dolphins, Dall’s porpoises, and Harbor seals. Occasionally Orcas (Killer whales) will visit the outer bay looking for fish or mammal prey. Though most of species described above are seasonal visitors in the summer time, others are year-round residents that seem perfectly happy with winter weather. One thing is for certain, Unalaska and the Aleutian Islands offer a door-step view of some of the most spectacular wildlife in the world. 26 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 SJ Serving more Alaskan ports than any other marine carrier Toll free 800.426.3113 | 206.763.3000 |Fax 206.264.4930 www.northlandservices.com Serving Unalaska & Dutch Harbor for over 25 years - OPEN DAILY 7:00 AM TO 10:00 PM We proudly compliment these products and services with “ Personal Customer Service” Great Espresso • Fine Wine • Liquor & Beer • Souvenirs & Gifts • Groceries • Fresh Quality Produce • Fresh Meat • Health & Beauty Aides • Name Brand Clothing • Lumber • Paint • Building Supplies • ACE Hardware • Marine Hardware • Auto Parts • Auto Repair • Money Grams • Check Cashing • Phone & Gift Cards ALASKASHIPSUPPLY.COM | 487 SALMON WAY | 907-581-1284 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 27 M A KUSH I N V O LC A N O 52 BR Once we reached the rim of the fumarole we were greeted with the sight of an almost fluorescent blue pond of water inside! Moreover, there were dozens of hissing vents emitting substantial quantities of what appeared to be sulfuric gas. The smell was noticeable but a gentle breeze kept the vapors at a distance. The sight was remarkable and it most certainly made our day-and-a-half trek to the top of Makushin Volcano worth it. This triumph only motivated us to explore the caldera further and eventually lead us to the highest point on the volcano. 1 Most recent eruption was in 1995 While exploring, Cory pointed out a small rocky outcropping that appeared higher than anything else we could see. Upon reaching it, we found ourselves standing at 6,007’! The Alaska Volcano Observatory puts the summit at approximately 5,906’ which was just shy of what our two GPS units were reading. We had hiked more than 15 miles to reach the highest point on Unalaska Island. We could even make out Shishaldin and Isanotski almost 150 miles off in the distance on Unimak Island. 6. Call Aleutian Adventure Sports to schedule an Aleutian adventure 3. Go for a walk on Summer Bay Beach With an elevation of 5,906 ft, its summit is the highest point on the island. “The extreme summit of Makushin was wrapped in white clouds, and from beneath these the glaciers were seen descending impressively into the sunshine within a thousand or fifteen hundred feet of sea-level. This fine mountain, glittering in its showy mail of snow and ice, together with a hundred other peaks dipping into the blue sky, and every one of them telling the work of ice or fire in their forms and sculpture” – excerpt from John Muirs’s book The Cruise of the Corwin (1881) 5 4. Venture out to Humpy Cove * 12 11. Listen to local musicians at Cape Cheerful Lounge 9. Experience the weather rapidly change in one day 12. Marvel at the Emperor Geese flocks on the rocks 10. Visit the Museum of Aleutians 13. Spot a “Deadliest Catch” boat and maybe even a Capitan 14. Visit Alaska Ship Supply 18. Volunteer to serve lunch at the Senior Center 15. View the Native Art Collection at the Ounalashka Corporation 19. Snowshoe up Bunker Hill to get a 360-aerial view of the island * 16. Enjoy a hearty breakfast at Amelia’s Restaurant KUCB 21 17. View Wild Horses AB 17 22. Watch local residents play softball at Kelty Field 23. Set up a charter with Miss Alyssa Bering Sea Excursions 27 27. Pick wild Salmonberries * 28. Watch the pink salmon (humpys) spawn in the rivers and streams throughout the island Always There. Always Delivering.® GCI is helping rural alaska stay in touch with the world in more ways than ever. SS 36 49 42. Have a bonfire on the beach SERVICE THROUGHOUT TOWN WITH OVER 60 ACCESS POINTS CONNECTING RURAL ALASKA 28 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 38 TS 36. Walk around Sitka Spruce Park planted in 1805 38. Have fun at the annual 4th of July parade, BBQ, and fireworks display RT 35 AV 31 43. Tour a processing plant (when available) 39 44. Grab a birding checklist and go bird watching 41. Take a drive over the pass WI-FI INTERNET MA RB 40. Schedule a halibut charter with F/V Lucille FOR HOME OR OFFICE 25. Stop by the WWII Visitor Center to pick up a copy of Fort Schwatka self-Guided tour booklet 37. Get inside a WWII Bunker 35. Visit Memorial park 39. Discover a hidden waterfall in pyramid valley * HIGH-SPEED INTERNET 23 AM 31. Beach comb for sea glass on Front Beach 34. Watch the talented Swan Net crew untangle nets in front on the hotel 37 24. Grab a burger at Dutch Harbor Fast Food 30. Watch Sea Otters play in the kelp 33. Get a sweatshirt at LFS TS 20. Compete in the annual Polar Bear 5K run 29. Pack a picnic and spend the day hiking the ancient Ugadaga Bay trail* 32. Go skip rocks at Morris Cove MONTHLY PLANS AND PREPAID 19 14 21. Take pleasure in live music, food, and games at the annual Heart of the Aleutians Festival 26. Pick up souvenirs at Carolyn Reed Art & Framing boutique SPRING SUMMER FALL WINTER 13 DS 22 WIRELESS SERVICE 7. Relish the Sunday Brunch at the Grand Aleutian Hotel 8. Visit the Unalaska Library – Jacob Whitaker, Unalaska Resident and blogger www.aleutianhiker.com Visit us locally at 2029 Airport Beach Road Dutch Harbor, AK 99692 907.359.2611 5. Visit the CVB 2. Take a tour with Extra Mile Tours to get acquainted with the area Makushin Volcano is an ice-covered stratovolcano located on Unalaska Island. Photograph courtesy of Jake Whitaker 3 1. See, smell, pick, or press a wildflower Real things to do in Unalaska 45. Visit the oldest Russian Orthodox cruciform-style church in North America 45 46. Take a stroll on Strawberry Hill * 49. Watch an unforgettable sunrise or sunset 47. Eat at the Grand Aleutian Hotel’s Wednesday Seafood Buffet 50. Shoot hoops at the PCR 48. Pull out your camera and spend the day taking pictures 51. Take a swim or sauna at the Aquatic Center 52 52. Have a bonfire on the beach 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 29 ET *The Ounalashka Corporation owns much of the surrounding land. Some activities require that you purchase a land use permit to enjoy your recreational activities. Permits can be purchased at the Ounalashka Corporation Building, located at 400 Salmon Way. Photographs courtesy of: RB - Rich Bye, ET - Even Terada, TS - Travis Swangel, AM - Alyssa Mcdonald, DS - Debbie Sensky, SS - Steven Shaishnikoff, AV - Amy Vanostenbridge RT - Robert Thompson MA - Mandy Anderson BR - Brett Richardson all others provided by CVB staff Visitor Services ... PORTS & HARBORS Tel: 581-1254 Available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week Call for available dock space, services and rates at four city docks. Heated Pool & Warming Pool Scheduled Adult Lap Swims & Family Swim Times Water Aerobics Classes Pool Slide & Sauna Cardio Fitness Center IU K M FA ILY &H EA LT H L IU IL INC. PO ST O FF IC SE RV I 1972 LI I Gymnasium Racquetball Courts Indoor Track & Weight Room Cardio Fitness Center & Exercise Classes Shower Rooms Art Room & Music Room with Piano Visit one of our 7 Beautiful City Parks & Playgrounds AQUATIC CENTER Tel: 581-1649 E BO X U LIU 14 K COMMUNITY CENTER Tel: 581-1297 4 U N AL AS KA K ,A 99 CE 68 S 5 Books & DVDs Local / National Papers & Magazines Friends of the Library Bookstore Extensive Collection of Local & Regional History Passport Services Free Internet Access Fax & Notary Services CITY OF UNALASKA 43 Raven Way · P. O. Box 610 · Unalaska, AK 99685 City Hall (907) 581-1251 · www.ci.unalaska.ak.us 30 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 ASSAULT & FAMILY VIOLENCE CRISIS INTERVENTION GENERAL PRACTICE INTEGRATIVE MEDICINE ON SITE LAB & X-RAY PUBLIC LIBRARY Tel: 581-5060 UNALASKANS AGAINST SEXUAL SLEEP STUDY 24 HR EMERGENCY CARE EXTENDED 24 HR EKG TESTING PHYSICAL THERAPY & KENESIO TAPING COUNSELING FOR: MENTAL HEALTH & SUBSTANCE ABUSE DENTAL SERVICES Iliuliuk Family & Health Services Clinic Unalaska/Dutch Harbor Community Health Center Phone 581-1202 | After Hours 581-1233 | Emergencies Dial 911 www.ifhs.org REFERRALS IMMEDIATE SAFETY LEGAL ADVOCACY & SUPPORT EDUCATION & PREVENTION PROGRAMS - Serving the Aleutian/Pribilof Islands Look For Us On Facebook - 24 Hour Crisis Line - 581-1500 in Unalaska 1 (800) 478-7238 throughout Alaska Office 581-1500 or 581-3310 Po Box 36 Unalaska, Ak 99685 Email Usafved@Arctic.Net 877.581.2612 • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • www.unalaska.info • 31 2 BEDROOM WEEKLY/MONTHLY RENTALS WINDY ISLAND DUTCH HARBOR SAFEWAY 2029 AIRPORT BEACH ROAD | (907) 581-4040 BUNGALOWS FOR AVAILABILITY/RATES PLEASE CALL 907.359.5722 windyislandbungalows@gmail.com CHURCH SERVICES IN UNALASKA HOLY ASCENSION CATHEDRAL 581-5883 Akathist Thursday 6:30 pm Great Vespers Sat 6:30 pm Devine Litergy Sun 10:00 am ALEUTIAN BIBLE CHURCH Worship Service at 11:00 am Join us at the Burma Road Chapel every Sunday! Call 581-5881 for more information U NA L A S K A BAHA’I UNALASKA CHRISTIAN FELLOWSHIP CHURCH Services are Sunday at 11:00 am Evangelical Non-Denominational Pastor John Honan Please call 581-1282 for more information St. CHRISTOPHER by the SEA - Catholic Church Services: Saturday 7:30 pm Sunday 1:00 pm Unisea’s Conference Room Sunday 9:00 am Located along the Iliuliuk Creek UNALASKA UNITED METHODIST CHURCH C E N T E R Sunday Worship at 10:00 am Devotions are Sunday at 1:00 pm ...serving Unalaska and the greater Aleutian community in the name of Christ. On the corner of 3rd & Bayview Please call 581-1261 for more information The Aleutian World War II Visitor Center Learn about the men and women who served in the US Armed Forces in the Aleutian Islands during World War II and about the removal and internment of the Unangax (Aleuts). The Aleutian World War II National Historic Area and Visitor Center communicates this history of the Islands with stunning clarity. The Aleutian World War II National Historic Area at Ulakhta Head shelters the remains of Fort Schwatka, a sprawling network of garrisons, command stations, bunkers, magazines, gun mounts and tunnels. Built to protect Unalaska and Dutch Harbor from Japanese attacks during the War, Fort Schwatka is perched 1,000 feet above the storm tossed waters of the Bering Sea with the summit of Mount Ballyhoo looming another 800 feet above the ruined fort. It is the highest coastal battery ever constructed in the United States and a testament to military engineering. Learn more about the shameful removal of the Island’s indigenous Unangax to reprehensible “camps” in Southeast Alaska where mortality rates reached ten percent. Call 581-1280 or 581-4998 for more information 32 • www.unalaska.info • UNALASKA, PORT OF DUTCH HARBOR • 877.581.2612 Contact us at: P.O. Box 149|Unalaska, AK 99685 Telephone: (907) 581-WWII (9944) - Wednesday through Saturday 1:00 to 6:00 p.m. Visit our website: www.ounalashka.com the Grand Aleutian Gift Shop Cheerful - lounge Margaret Bay - Cafe’ - for ALL your hospitality needs 866-581-3844 TOLL-FREE www.grandaleutian.com 498 SALMON WAY, DUTCH HARBOR, AK 99692 harbor view Liquor Store Harbor View BAR & GRILL
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