מבט אל עולם תכשיטי הכסף העתיקים של תימן

Introduction to the world of old silver
jewellery from the Land of the Queen of
Sheba
‫מבט אל עולם תכשיטי הכסף העתיקים של‬
‫תימן‬
Dr. Esther van Praag
April 2005
Photo: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Content
•
Life in Yemen in the beginning of the 20th century...
•
Operation “Magic Carpet” (1949-1950)
•
Silversmiths
•
Various styles of jewelry
•
Jewelry: value, prestige or ornament ?
•
Amulets
•
Necklaces
•
Ornaments around the face ?
•
Arm and finger jewelry
•
References
•
Acknowledgements
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Where is Yemen ?
Yemen is located in the south west of the Arabic Peninsula, with a superficies that equals almost that of
France. It shares 1500 km of border with Saudi-Arabia in the north, and borders with Oman in the East. The
Red Sea in the West and the Indian Ocean in the South meet at Bab-el-Mandab (Door of Lamentations),
separating the Peninsula from the African continent.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Life in Yemen in the beginning of the 20th century...
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Life in Yemen in the beginning of the 20th century
In the Arabic Peninsula, the Arabic, Christian and Jewish
populations lived more or less peacefully together.
Houses in the old city of Sanaa
With the expansion of Islam in the 7th century, the various
groups of populations were forced to convert to Islam, or
they would lose their properties and be considered as
„Unfaithful“. Persons who refused to convert could
continue to practice their own religion, but were requested
to pay a special tax (jizya) that assures their protection.
Islamic laws ruled Yemen. Those included, among others:
•
a prohibition to build houses that are higher that those
of the Muslim population,
•
a prohibition to add decorations to the outside of the
house,
•
a prohibition to ride animals,
•
a prohibition to own property, agricultural land,
•
a prohibition to posses arms,
•
a prohibition to clothe the same way as the Muslim
population.
Houses in the Jewish neighbourhood of Sanaa
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Gate to the souk of the Jewish
neighborhood in Sana'a - 1907
(photo Hermann Burchardt)
Prohibition to live within the city walls
in Sana’a...
Destroyed Jewish neighborhood in Sana'a
(photo Hermann Burchardt)
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewish neighborhood of Sana'a - beginning of the 20th century…
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Prohibition to live within the city walls in villages too, here Al-Hajjara...
Muslim village on top of the hill
Jewish neighborhood
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Photo: “Yemenite Jews”
Prohibition to exert particular jobs or agricultural work...
The Christian population disappeared during the 11th century.
The Jewish population remained, but has been continuously
been abused of, insulted and its members were considered 2nd
class citizens during centuries.
Reparation of matrasses
The Islamic rules influenced the professional life. The Jewish
population would be allowed to exert manual professions only,
like:
Photo: “Yemenite Jews”
•
jewellers, wood carvers, leather tanners, weavers or
shoemaker for men,
•
basketry and embroidery for women.
Jewellery workplace
Photo: Zion Mansour Ozeri
Photo: “Yemenite Jews”
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo
Collection
Production of alcohol
Tanners
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Embroidery
Making baskets
Dr. Esther van Praag
Prohibition to wear identical clothes...
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Muslim women wear a Gargush till they get
married. After, they wear a veil and colorful
scarves.
Women belonging to the lower social classes
were forbidden to wear a veil and continued to
wear the Gargush after their wedding.
Several types of gargush are worn, depending
on the age of the girl, the social status of the
woman, or on the occasion.
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
The daily gargush is enriched
with embroidery and simple silver
decorations.
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Festive gargush are made of
brocade cloth and decorated with
filigree ornaments and coins
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Symbolic embroidery design with
Photos: Arie van Praag
fine silver and golden thread
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Photos: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Operation “Magic Carpet” (1949-1950)
Migratory movements towards Jerusalem,
:
1882
•
1908-11
•
1929
•
1943
•
1949-50 = Emigration of nearly all
members of the Jewish
community of Yemen, after
the establishment of the
State of Israel in 1948.
Photos: “The Magical Carpet”
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewellery
Photo: The State of Israel's National
Photo Collection
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Photo: Arie van Praag
1949: Important luggage…
2005: festive occasions…
Water pipe
Photo: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Silversmiths...
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Photos: “Yemenite Jews”
Silversmiths around 1920
The work with silver and jewellery was restricted almost exclusively to Jewish craftsmen. Even in remote regions,
like the Hadramaout Valley, in the south-East of Yemen, Muslim silversmiths were almost all descendants of Jewish
families, that converted to Islam.
The reasons for this situation are the following:
the Koran commands restrain from work with precious metals to the Muslim population,
•
Manual professions are not much valued in the Yemenite society and are left to citizens belonging to the lowest
social classes.
•
„‫“ﻧﻌﻤﺔ‬, „‫ =(“ברכה‬barakah, ou „blessed with a sacred strength“) or the belief that jewels made by a “foreigner”
possesses a special blessing.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Silversmiths for everybody…
During centuries, Jewish silversmiths have made ornaments in various percentages of silver for their own
people, as well as for the Muslim urban, rural or nomadic populations. They knew the symbolism given to
different shapes, and integrated them in the jewelry, in respect to the the religious origins of their clients. The
wearer, on her side, would attribute magical powers to these pieces, in relation to tradition and sacred texts.
Photos: The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Few pieces have a stamp in Arabic. It states the name of the jeweller, sometimes the name of a city, the
percentage of silver or a date. Rarely Hebrew letters are engraved, which refer to the name of the jeweller, that
of the owner, or have a cabalistic meaning. After 1920, it was forbidden to sign the jewellery.
Photos: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Where does the silver come from ?
Since there are only a few silver mines in Yemen, silversmiths had to rely on the existent material,
by recasting it, or on silver imports.
In Muslim families, it was customary that the daughters do not inherit the jewels of their mother. After
her death, the inheritors would bring the jewellery of the deceased to the silversmith, in order to have
new jewels made in the traditional style. If the amount of material was insufficient, metal or silver
would be added. Silver usually comes from the Maria-Theresa thaler (coin) that has a high degree of
purity (84%). This coin has been produced till the 20th century, with the date of 1780.
Within 10 years after appearance of the Maria Teresa thaler, they were found in the Arabic world
and Yemen and has been used as currency, basic material for silversmithing or as decorated
pendants that would help ward off evil.
Maria-Theresa thaler from 1780
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Silversmiths around 1920
Extract from “The Land of Sheba”: Tales of the Jews of Yemen,
by S. D. Goiten, Schocken Books, 1947:
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Gypsum windows – an source of inspiration for jewellery design?
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Nowadays...
During centuries, Jewish silversmiths passed on their knowledge and jewelry-making skills
from father to son, more particularly the granulation and filigree techniques. The later
was already mastered by the Egyptian and Greek civilizations.
In 1949, after the establishment of the State of Israel, most craftsmen left Yemen with
their families. Today, only 2 ou 3 Jewish jewellers live in Sanaa, work according to the
traditional methods, and manufacture directly for their clients.
A centenary tradition of jewellery has died in Yemen.
recently in Sana'a
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Various styles of jewelry ?
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
„Mansury“ jewellery style
The „Mansury“designation refers to
one of the oldest families of Jewish
jewellers. This family lived along the
Red Sea coast during centuries,
before emigrating to Jerusalem
around 1900.
The Mansury style is characterized
by a moderate use of decorations.
Back side, with cabalistic
signs in Hebrew…
Mansury used a metallo-ceramic
paint, called "Laz", on his silver
jewelry pieces. Unfortunately, the
fabrication procedure of this paint
has been lost with time.
Traces may be seen on the temple
ornament hereunder.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
And the signature in
Arabic of the jeweller
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewels crafted by the „Baddihy“ family
Jewels of the Baddihy family are
characterized by silver or filigree
elements applied on a silver
surface.
Decorative elements are also used,
like granulation in the form of
flowers, lozenges or circles.
Photo: Arie van Praag
Photo: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Photo: Arie van Praag
Dr. Esther van Praag
Filigree jewellery of „Bawsani“
These jewels have open silver
filigree work, and have been
manufactured with the greatest of
precision. This tradition has existed
during about 100 years and was
produced by the best craftsmen of
Yemen.
Similar pieces have been produced
by jewellers belonging to other
families. Today, however, this style
is commonly named
Bawsani.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
“East Yemen” style
In the past, the city of Haban, located at the entry of the
Hadramaout valley, was notorious for its Jewish jewellers.
Its style is characteristic, with simple forms and decorations. The
surface of the silver is stamped or engraved, and is occasionally
enriched with decorative elements in silver.
The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewelry: value, prestige or ornament ?
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewels as social insurance for women
In the Yemenite society, silver jewellery plays an important role. It represents a value, and brings prestige
and social welfare to the woman. As a result, Yemenite women tried to posses as much (silver) jewels as
possible. Jewelry is part of the dowry (Mahr) and is a precondition for a wedding. This part of the dowry
becomes sole property of the bride and she will decide what to do with it.
Jewellery has of course not only a materialistic value, it also plays a role as amulet and protection. It
brings security thanks to the magical inherent forces.
Women would only part reluctantly from their jewels. Only an extreme distress can bring them about to
sell the jewels – and to suffer the disgrace brought to her family by the selling.
These
Muslim
women
bring
presents to a wedding. These are
part of the Mahr, dowry, that the
family of the fiance pays to the
family of the bride.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Jewels as personal decoration or personal protection ?
Originally the jewel-amulet is supposed to protect the wearer from adversity and evil powers.
Amulets have a long history and a long and rich development throughout the ages. They exist in
a multitude of forms and are often linked to special (festive) occasions.
It is only later that these jewels have been considered as decorative elements and have been
appreciated as such.
The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Amulets...
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Kutub – Talismans with various shapes
In Yemen, symbolic and magical forces have been attributed to the talismans. These are supposed
to chase adverse forces and evil, bring prosperity and good health, and to strengthen the individual.
They have been manufactured in various shapes: cylindrical, rectangular or triangular boxes, etc…
The use of a particular amulet was transmitted orally, that is: when to use it, for whom it would be
beneficial: a newborn, a young child, a women or an elderly person. The occasion at which it would
be worn is also important, as well as the spot where it is worn on the body.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Kutub or talisman
A Kutub – or amulet case –
possesses in itself protective
strength. The hollow box suffices
to give protection to the wearer.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Talismans and their content
Parchment in old
Arabic, imploring
for good health to
the bearer
A talisman was often filled with a hand-written parchment. For the Muslim
population, the text often consists of wishes, followed by prayers or sura of the
Koran, written in Arabic. For the Jewish population, biblical texts, prayers or
cabalistic formulae would be written in Hebrew or Aramaic. It can be a complete
text; more often it is abbreviated and accompanied by mystical symbols.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Cabalistic text, written in
Hebrew
Dr. Esther van Praag
Kutub – Cylindrical boxes
Length 14.5 cm, diameter 4 cm
Length12.5 cm, diameter 3.5 cm
Photo: Arie van Praag
The amulets – Kutub – are worn to protect oneself
against something that frightens the bearer; the
amulet will give him strength to fight this fear.
The effect can only be felt by the bearer and by
the jeweller, who has received the order to
manufacture the amulet for a special purpose.
Such knowledge has, however, been lost with time
and sometimes new forces have been attributed
to the amulet (e.g. love -> long life).
Length 9 cm, diameter 2.2 cm,
Photo: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Kutub or talisman
A very old, large filigree talisman,
outstanding example of increasingly
rare Yemenite art by Jewish silversmiths.
This silver amulet is said to originate from the
northern city of Sa'ada and has been part of
an “Agd Mirjan” necklace (fertility-necklace).
The amulet weight over 200 gr.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
The amulets are attached to a
necklace, which is, in itself, a nice
piece of jewellery. Red or black
coral, amber or cornelian beads
alternate with finely manufactured
silver hollow spheres- Dugag.
Bawsani amulet
Photo: Arie van Praag
Photo: Il Corallo negli Ornamenti Tradizionali e nel
Costume dello Yemen
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Amulets of the oriental regions of Yemen
Bedouin women from Eastern Yemen prefer
rectangular amulets. It can be filed with
cloth material (from the clothing of a child
that died ? a saint ? and would be drenched
with perfume to chase the bad spirits).
The amulet box is decorated with short
chains, at the end of which hollow spheres
are attached, which sound like bells.
Photo: Il Corallo negli Ornamenti Tradizionali e nel
Costume dello Yemen
Bedouin woman with amulet
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Hadramaout – rectangular Kutub
The beads of this necklace are
remarkable. Indeed, aside the silver
and coral elements, there are hollow
beads with 4 holes. These beads
would possibly capture and lock up
the bad spirits…
Young Jewish woman from
the city of Haban, with the
characteristic hairstyle, and
a necklace with amulets.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
The State of Israel's National Photo Collection
Dr. Esther van Praag
Coins as Talismans
Coins were not linked to value
and prestige only, they were also
attributed the ability to ward off
the
properties.
They
were
appreciated ornaments by the
different populations of Yemen.
Decorated Maria-Theresa thalers,
minted 1765 and 1780
Coins (thaler, Indian rupees and
Arabic coins) have become an
important part of Yemenite
jewelry . They were re-decorated,
adding bells and coral beads.
During festive occasions, Jewish
women would wear a brocade
head cover (gargush) on which
fine filigree decorations or MariaTheresa thaler were added.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Protection of the children
Photo: “Yemenite Jews”
Children also wear bracelets and
necklaces with amulets. Newborn
and sucklings are given special
clothes, in order to confuse the
bad spirits. Nowadays, a coral
bracelet is still tied around the
wrist of a suckling, so that it does
not choke when nursing.
Photo: Arie van Praag
Gargush with Bawsani jewellery
A particular care is given to male
descendants, who are considered
more important than female
descendants. Up to the age of
three, boys are wearing the same
clothes as the girls, in order to
confuse the bad spirits… At the
age of three, child mortality
diminishes and boys are clothed
normally.
A particular attention is given to
the head, covered with a cloth
hood – Gargush – decorated with
small chains, buttons, coral and
amulets.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Necklaces
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Lazem
Lazem necklaces are barely worn today, due to
their mass (volume and weight) that has
become incompatible with modern life. This type
of necklace has nonetheless been favored during
centuries, independently from its silver content.
A Lazem is always made up with the following
parts:
• three talismans or Kutub,
• one, three or five rectangular hollow boxes,
• two hollow triangular boxes, in which the bad
spirits can be captured.
This necklace is about 100 years old. A part of
the filigree decorations has been rubbed away
by a daily wearing in a rough climate (e.g. sand
storms).
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Lazem
In Yemen, women of all ethnical origin like particularly these Lazem
necklaces. Still today, older women that live in the rural regions of
Yemen value this type of necklace and will only reluctantly give
them away.
Not 2 necklaces are alike, some decorated with talisman only, other
with coins and other decorative elements
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Carefully manufactured Lazem or Mashhatta
This necklace was based on the model of
the Lazem, and was mainly worn by women
living in the South of Yemen.
It is made up by the following elements:
• up to 7 strings, containing silver and
coral, or coral-like glass beads,
• one hollow rectangular box,
• two hollow triangular elements, called
Tadarif.
A talisman, filigree elements or coins were
sometimes added.
Bawsani style
Photo: Il Corallo negli Ornamenti Tradizionali e nel
Costume dello Yemen
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Wasabi Lazem
This necklace is based on the model of the
Lazem, and has been manufactured by
member of the Wasab jewelers family.
The necklaces manufactured by the Wasab
family members have a unique style,
associating silver beads with coral beads.
The hollow boxes are finely decorated with
granulation. A talisman is attached to to the
central box.
Various models of this necklace exist, with
differences mainly present on the central
square box.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Wedding Celebrations
In Yemen, the wedding festivities represent the most
important event in the life of a woman and could last 2
full weeks… It involves high expenses and richness of
jewelry ornaments worn by the bride and the guests.
In Sana’a, the bride wears a long gown made of Indian
golden brocade called Jallayah mizahar. On her head,
A tiara, Tishbuk lu’lu, decorated with flowers is placed
on her head. Around her face, a pair of ornaments,
Mashager, hang along her temples and her chin is
surrounded by a Labbeh. The upper part of the body is
covered with long necklaces formed by hollow silver
spheres, Dugag, interspaced with amber beads, and
with a “fertility necklace”, Agd Mirjan.
The noise and glittering of the jewels will help confuse
and chase the evil spirits.
Often, a Shar’eh was asked to help the bride. This
professional woman would find and borrow the
necessary clothes or jewelry ornaments from family
members and/or neighbours.
Photo: Zion Mansour Ozeri
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Agd Mirjan – fertility necklace
Mizmar
The fertility necklace, called Agd Mirjan, was traditionally worn
on two important occasion in the life of a woman:
• on the 1st and 2nd day of the wedding celebration,
• after giving birth to a newborn, during the 40 days isolation
period after childbirth during with the new mother would host
women guests only
Jauz
Heikal
The necklace was worn with specific clothes, more particularly
during. It is composed of many strings of coral, ceramic or glass
beads, that all have the same size. Up to 14 strings can be
arranged together, so the used beads could not be too large.
The use of coral is believed to help the coagulation of blood. It
also symbolizes youthfulness and beauty for the Jewish
population.
The fertility necklace has a definite structure: the strings end
with hollow silver spheres, sometimes decorated with filigree
elements - Jauz. At bottom end, there is a talisman, Heikal, on
the other end it ends with conical elements, or Mizmar.
When a woman does not posses such a necklace, the Shar`eh
- women professionally helping the bride - is asked to find the
necessary jewels among friends or family.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Silver spheres or Dugag
Necklaces formed with Dugag, big
hollow silver spheres with applied
silver or filigree decorations, play an
important role in the defence against
the evil spirits. Sometimes these
Dugags are gilded. Spheric or square
amber beads are sometimes inserted
between those spheres. In the
opposite example, a talisman, Kutub,
embellishes the necklace.
Baddhihy amulet
Such necklaces are regularly borrowed
from the ”Other”, that is from
members of the other religious
community. Indeed, members from
one religious community wish to
include protective forces and blessings
of the other religious community,
Baraka, during events as important as
a marriage.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Ornaments around the face ?
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Forehead ornaments - Mahasabah
This forehead ornament is 36 cm long and 7 cm
wide and has been manufactured at the end of
the 19th century by Bawsani. It is composed of
many small decorative parts mounted on cones
attached on a cloth wreath. It was somethimes
adorned with red coral beads.
This type of forehead decoration was mainly
worn by Jewish women.
Photo: Il Corallo negli Ornamenti Tradizionali e nel
Costume dello Yemen
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Other types of forehead ornaments
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Ahkras – Mashager
Earrings – Ahkras – were
usually not worn by women
living in urban regions, only by
the Bedouin population.
During festive occasions, women would favor
ornaments that fall along the temples.
Their
shapes vary considerably.
Temple ornaments, Mashager.
Here numerous small chains with a flat piece of
silver, decorated with granulations or filigree
Hebrew marking in the back of one of the pendants
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Decoration of the temple - Mashager
Another type is composed
of half a sphere, decorated
with filigree or granulation,
adorned with numerous
chains ending with hollow
spheres,
small
silver
lozenges or hands of
Fatima.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Decoration of the temple
The basic ornaments, like the
triangular jewelry with 3 glass
“eyes” were decorated differently,
according to the ethnic origin of
the women.
As worn by Bedouin woman,
plaited on a strip of leather, with
coin like silver decorations
As worn by Jewish woman, with
long chains and small bells
Photo: The Jews of Yemen
“Jewish woman with typical hangings and man with
ear locks, Haidan, 1984”
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
This unique old pair of ornaments, used to decorate
the temple, is said to come from the region of Mareb,
capital of the Kingdom of Sheba.
For 4000 years, the civilization of Sheba built the
famous dam of Mareb. Its recent re-construction is
based on the one that was built during the 10th
century BCE.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Labbeh – chin-necklace
Labbeh is a necklace that is worn around the chin and neck.
It is formed by many parts that chain up with each other.
The result is a glittering surface, that moves permanently
with head movements, and aims to chase the bad spirits.
The chaining is obtained mechanically or by sewing of the
various parts on a piece of cloth.
These necklaces are part of the present that a father gives
to his daughters for their marriage. Later they are worn at
various festive occasions.
Muslim women prefer Labbeh with applied
decorations, while Jewish women prefer these
necklaces with filigree parts.
Bawsani
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Filigree Labbeh Tyur
Between 1930 and 1940, Sana'a silversmith Yihye
al-Abyadh and his son made this very delicate
Labbeh necklace essentially for the Muslim
population.
This filigree style is new, changing from the
abstract or symmetrical motives, to shapes of
birds, hearts and a knot with two loops and two
ends .
Photo: Michael Blalock
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Arm and finger jewelry
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Banager – Bracelets
Bracelets (Banager – singular
Bangar) are always worm in pairs,
one on each arm.
Unusual Mansury
style ?
The diversity of the models and
decorations seemed only limited by
the skills of the jeweller.
All known techniques were used in
the making of bracelets. Generally,
they are formed of two articulate
parts, with a simple clothing by
means of a pin.
Baddihy bracelet, with the signature of the jeweller
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Different regions, different types of bracelets
Fore-arm
bracelets
Bedouin style
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Schumaylat – Filigree bracelets
These true showpieces were only produced in the
cities and could only be purchased by rather
wealthy
families.
These
bracelets
were
manufactured in Sanaa by the best jewellers,
they are a remarkable example of their expertise.
Those bracelets were sometimes gilded.
Shumaylat bracelets were given as presents
between family members, or were part of the
dowry. During her wedding, a bride could wear
up to 5 on each arm. At such occasions, these
bracelets were borrowed from family members or
friends.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Alaq – Finger-rings
Women as well as men wear finger-rings. In fact, this
is the only piece of jewellery that the Koran allows to
be worn by men, together with their traditional
rounded dagger (Jambya).
Women used to wear finger-rings at each festive
occasion, more particularly when she received guests
during the isolation period following the childbirth.
She took care to wear the rings in the same order
than she had at her wedding.
One of a pair of wedding
rings from Sana'a
Rings with coral are particularly appreciated, as coral
symbolizes protection and good luck. The coral is
sometimes replaced by glass paste.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
Photo: Arie van Praag
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
References
Schmuck aus dem Jemen, by Lenore Böcking-Döring. No publication date.
Bedouin Jewellery in Saudi-Arabia, by Heather Colyer Ross. Stacey International, London, 1978.
The Art of Bedouin Jewellery, a Saudi-Arabian Profile, by Heather Colyer Ross. Empire Publishing Service/Players Press,
Arabesque, Switzerland, 1981.
Il Corallo negli Ornamenti Tradizionali e nel Costume dello Yemen, by Cristina Del Mare and Alessandro de Maigret. Electa
Napoli, Italy, 2003.
The Maker's Mark in Yemeni Jewelry, by Ron Garner, Ornament, vol. 26 (4) 2003
Jewish Domestic Architecture in San`a Yemen With an Introduction and an Appendix on Seventeenth Century Documents
relating to Jewish Houses in San`a by S. D. Goitein, Rathjens Carl
Yemenite Jews, a Photographic Assay, by Zion Mansour Ozeri. Schocken Books, New-York, 1951
The Magical Carpet, by Shlomo Barer. Harper & Brothers Publishers, New-York, 1952
The Yemenites. Two thousands Years of Jewish Culture, by Ester Muchawsky-Schapper. The Israel Museum, Jerusalem, 2000.
The State of Israel's National Photo Collection: http://147.237.72.31/topsrch/defaulte.htm
Mori Sa’id, by Hayim Hazaz. Abelard – Schuman, New York, 1956.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag
TO
Arie van Praag, M. FIAP
for his help in photographing the different pieces, and his suggestions
Anat Madmony, Ph.D.
for discussing Yemenite jewelry
Michael Blalock
for his permission to use the picture of the Labbeh Tyur
and to various persons who want to remain anonymous.
Introduction to the world of old silver jewellery from the Land of the Queen of Sheba
Dr. Esther van Praag