Khan-Tengri and West-Pobeda 2008 REPORT for Championships

REPORT
for
Championships of Mountaineering
of Baltic States
Khan-Tengri and
West-Pobeda
2008
alpinism.ee
1
Club
MTÜ Matkamise ja Mägironimise Edendamise Klubi
www.alpinism.ee
Passport
Class of the route’s
High altitude category (climbs over 6000 m)
Region of the route’s
Tian-Shan mountain system, Kokshaal-Too range, South- Inilchek
Summit 1, it’s height, routs name
Khan Tengri (Han Tengri) 6995m, Tien Shan, West Ridge (normal route
from South)
[Хан-Тенгри, Высота 6995, Сложность 5А, Характер маршрута
комбинированный, Маршрут ЮЗ склону, Руководитель М. Погребецкий,
2
alpinism.ee
1931 (М. Погребецкий, Ф. Зауберер,
Б. Тюрин)]
First ascent Grade of difficulty
First ascent of the Khan-Tengri was
made on 11.09.1931 by Mikhail
Pogrebetsky’s Ukrainian team from
the south, along the west ridge
5A (RUS) - (~F - AD+)
Summit 2 it’s height, routs name
West-Pobeda or Vaja Pshavela
(6918 m), from Dikij Saddle, Medzmarizhvili classic up to West-Pobeda
[Победы
(3),
Высота
6918,
Сложность 5А, Характер маршрута
комбинированный, Маршрут С
ребру с пер. Дикий, Руководитель
Д. Медзмариашвили, 1961]
Grade of difficulty
First ascent
5A (RUS)
First ascent was made in 1938 by
three members of the A. Letavet’s
expedition – L.Gutman, Y. Ivanov
and A.Sidorenko – who succeeded
to summit a unclimbed peak which
they named “20-летия ВЛКСМ” and
measured it’s height 6900 meters.
Latter “first official” ascent to the of
mountain was made on 1956 by V.
Abalakov team and this ascent is still
recognised as first ascent.
Participants
Kristjan Erik Suurväli - leader
Urmas Peiker (summiteer of Khan-Tengri)
Priit Joosu (West-Pobeda (Vaja Pshavela) 6918m)
Hannes Oja(West-Pobeda (Vaja Pshavela) 6918m)
Priit Simson
Priit Rooden
Khan-Tengri via West Ridge from South
set of pictures from basecamp, from top to bottom:
alpinism.ee team in Karakol bazaar; BC proviant
tent; Team in Maida-Adyr; BC sauna; Urmas takes everyday medical procedures - measures blood pressure
and SPO2
3
U
rmas
made
Khan-Tengri
trip
with
58
Peak
round
hours
Height difference
2900 m, including approach fromBasecamp
(4100m).
Relief, state
Glacier, rock and snow, partly snow cowered ice,
ice
Khan Tengri Peak (7,010m) - is part of the TengriTag Ridge. The Tengri-Tag Ridge forms a natural
barrier between the two “brother” glaciers, SouthInilchek glacier (60.5km long) and North-Inilchek
Glacier(32.8km).
4
The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route.
Basecamp is situated on the meeting point of the
South-Inilchek glacier and Zvozdochka Glacier.
From Basecamp to Shubin’s stop (C1-4200m) is
about 2 hours walk on the South-Inilchek glacier
on its left side. C1 is situated at the foot of the
long gully (Semenovskogo glacier) that is the first
part of the route up Khan-Tengri.
From C1 route turns left to the Semenovskogo glacier up to C2 (5200-5400m).
This part of the route has to be done
very early at the morning because avalanches from Mt. Chapaeva (6,371 m)
are frequent. Glacier can be quite broken
and in the steeper sections of the icefall
ropes are fixed.
C2 is situated at the Semenovskogo
glacier. There is several good campsites
for tents, which is protected from avalanches.
From C2 to C3 is easy scramble on snow
and ice, only threath may be hidden
crevasses. There is possibility for snow-
Ascending in icefall under
Chapajev Peak
C2 5300m
C3 5800m under Col
caves and tents.
From the snow caves (near the West
Col) (C3)a 100m steep snow/ice slope,
which is fixed with rope, leads up to the
West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow
and heavily corniced and the top of the
fixed ropes should be carefully noted.
A traverse along the Col leads to the
mixed ground of the West Ridge where
the angle ascent angle goes steeper. The
route then follows the West Ridge via a
number of small bivouac sites at 6200m,
6400m and 6700m. Each campsite accommodates one tent.
The West Ridge rises from the West Col,
alpinism.ee
5
view from C3 to summit pyramid
which is very enjoyable, straightforward
‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep
rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are a couple of sections, which
require careful ascending; such as the
vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m,
and the knife above it.
Almost the entire ridge is fixed with
rope. New ropes were fixed at 2007, with
ropes donated by company “Mammut”.
Although ropes were in good condition
one has to take outmost care as their
condition and the anchors are variable.
The route follows the crest of the ridge
with snow and scrambling interspersed
with steeper rock sections until 6,700m.
Here a traverse turns slightly right across
snow slopes, then reaches a steep rock
step of some 20m. Rock step is severe in
standard.
Above the rock step route climbs into a
snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep
knife edged snow ridge of some 50m.
Ridge is very exposed. This is followed
leftwards to a steeper section of mixed
ground.
Above this, the fixed rope ends. After
that follows around 300m of easy snow
climbing for half an hour to reach the
summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome.
Therefore the rock summit, which is also
covered with snow is marked with a metal tripod.
Acclimatization period
Team made acclimatization on the Khan-Tengri peak. KhanTengri was chosen because it is more easily approachable then
Pik Pobeda. Also there is quicker and easier possibility to
achieve enough height to acclimatize properly. Khan-Tengri
rout was familiar to team members from year 2004.
23.07.2008 from Basecamp to Shubin stop (C1), good weather
and nice easy tempo; work 2,5 h
24.07.2008 C1 during the night and on the morning snowfall
with strong winds, no visibility. Team stayed at C1. Priit Simson
descended to Basecamp due to severe tooth pain. Kristjan-Erik,
Hannes and Urmas accompanied him to the BC and climbed up
to C1. Poor visibility during the glacier travel.
25.07.2008 rest of the team ascended to C2 at 5200 meters, good
weather, minor snowfall. work 8,5 h.
26.07.2008 C2 walk to the 5500 and back.
27.07.2008
team ascended to C3 5800-5900, snowfall started at
6
14.00, work 3,5 h
summit
28.07.2008 we planned to take a radial walk
up to 6400 but weather conditions were very
bad no visibility and snowfall. So we stayed
at tents.
29.07.2008 early morning start and descend
to base camp.
During the acclimatization period team slept
in the tents.
Han-Tengri (7010m) summit
Urmas’s route times
06.08.2008 around 21:00 left from Basecamp
around 24:00 in Shubin stop (C1) 4200 m – 4h
07.08.2008 02:00 left from C1 to C2at 08:00 in
C2 – lunchbreak at 13:00 in C3
08.08.2008 01:00 left from C3 to the summit
around 13:30 at the summit of Khan Tengri
09.08.2008 08.30 back at basecamp
Whole round trip from basecamp to basecamp 58 hours and 30 minutes, from which
approximately 11 hours of sleeping time.
Technical equipment
In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice
axe is sufficient, although the ski poles are useful. Ascender
(jumar), rappelling device, self-belay system, seat-harness.
Chest-harness for glacier travel and helmet are good option,
but can be skipped. Many climbers did not take ice-axe as
well, but it is not recommendable.
Description of the route West-Pobeda
Expedition’s main aim was Jengish Chokusu 7439m (Pik
Pobeda). Jengish Chokusu situates in the Kokshaal-Tau
ridge in its eastern end past Sary-Zhaz River valley. Offical
hight of Pik Pobeda (7,439 m) was measured in 1943 by the
expedition lead by P.N.Ropasov, Russian Soviet military
topographer.
From the Base camp opposite the Gorkii peak route turns
from the South-Inilchek glacier to the Zvezdochka glacier.
At the beginning route travels on the east side of lateral7
moraine till the bend of the glacier. From there the Zvez-
C3 at 5800m and C4 at 6400m
dochka has huge open crevasses which as to
be avoided by zig-zag travel, from one side
of glacier to other. At the bend of the glacier
turn right towards Dikij pass. The first camp is
beneath the Dikij pass. There is an avalanche
danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from
the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk
from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the
C1 on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij
pass is 5-10 hours. Altitude is 4400 m.
Ascend to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope
to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4
hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging
glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along
the glacier (5-10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is
1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40
degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to
make a snow hole and pitch tents (C2, 5200
m). The most difficult and dangerous part of
this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high.
There is fixed ropes.
From the C2 (Dikij pass) follow wide snow
ridge to the C3, which is near the rock walls.
Altitude is 5900 m - 6000 m. Overnight in tents
or in cave. There is an avalanche danger when
heavy snowfall!
5900-6700 m - ascend along the ridge of rocks
8
Marble
rockband
at
6700m
mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 class. The
steepness of the ridge is 30-40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an
altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before “black” triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m
(Camp4). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other
circumstances. Difficulty is 3-4 by UIAA.
From the C4, higher from the black rock triangle the route goes to the West-Pobeda Peak (6918 m) in 4-8
hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, and class of difficulty is 2-3. The route crosses snow and ice fields
with some rock islands. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of
Peak Neru 6744m
from West-Pobeda
9
WEST-POBEDA 6918
10
Joosu ascending to West-Pobeda,
directly behind him is Dikij
Glacier and further right is
Zvezdochka
Hannes
Joosu
exhausted in snowhole
6900m
the West-Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or
make a hole. C5 (6900 m). Difficulty is 4-5 by UIAA.
Our team ascent to Pik Pobeda was intterrupted at the altitude of 6918
m on West-Pobeda or Vaja Pshavela due to bad weather conditions.
Hannes Oja and Priit Joosu spent 4 nights at the West-Pobeda after what
descended in critical condition.
02.08.2008 Hannes, Joosu and Kristjan-Erik start from BC after breakfast.
At the halfway to the C1 Kristjan-Erik turns around, Hannes and Joosu
continue to C1 work around 8h
03-04.08.2008 bad weather Hannes and Joosu stay at the C1
05.08.2008 stove dies in C1, Urmas and Kristjan-Erik will deliver new
stove
06.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu ascend to C2 at Dikij Pass (5300m), lot of
jumar work
07.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu start at 8:00 to ascend to C3 at 5800-5900m
and arrive 13:00 good campsite.
08.08.2008 rest day in C3
09.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu ascend to C4 at 6400m
10.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu ascend to C5 at 6900m and reach to WestPobeda
11.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather
12.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather. They are unable to stay at tent because heavy snowfall and dig a snowhole. Hannes
gets heavy frostbite on both hands;
13.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather,
14.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather, situation
gets critical. Rescue works are planned and organized in basecamp.
Also Ukranian summit team at 7100m and second team at 6900m are in
bad situation, Hannes and Joosu attempt to descend, but there is no visibility and they have to abandon the attempt.
15.08.2008 Hannes and Joosu descend rapidly to C1. Urmas and Kristjan-Erik meet them at C1. Joosu and Urmas carry onto BC, Hannes and
Kristjan-Erik stay overnight at C1 and descend early morning on 16th
16.08.2008 team fly’s out to Maida-Adyr and reaches by evening to Karakol
a l p i n i s m . e e
Hannes Oja and Priit Joosu route times
11
C1
23
1
24
26
27
C3
Khan Tengri
C2
25
3
2
4
Summit period
2
4
C1
1
2
August
3
Rest
31
Pobeda
30
5
C2
Urmas Khan-Tengri summit 7010
C3
7
8
C4
9
C5
10
11
12
13
14
16
17
18
Tallinn
Bishkek
Karakol
15
4
Summit attack Pobeda up to 6918 Vaja Pshavela
6
1 - Simson turns around & leaves
2 - Kristjan-Erik turns around
3 - Rooden leaves
4 - Hannes & K-E stay overnigt at C1, Joosu &Urmas decend to BC
Basecamp
BC
29
Acclimatisation
Hannes, Joosu summit bid
Urmas Khan-Tengri acent
Urmas, Kristjan-Erik meet
Hannes, Joosu planned summit bid
28
Khan-Tengri and West-Pobeda 2008 altitude graph
22
Acclimatisation
21
8000
20
Basecamp
19
7500 Maida Adõr
7000
6500
6000
5500
5000
4500
4000
3500
3000
2500
2000
1500
1000
Date
18
July
BC
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
12
altitude