BITS FROM THE BEACH Bayon Pearnik
Transcription
BITS FROM THE BEACH Bayon Pearnik
A friend, who I’ve known practically since I first came to Cambodia almost ten years ago, stopped by in Kampot, first time for him in several years: his observation; This town is really boutiquey. Being as he’d just spent several months in Koh Kong, just about anything would seem boutiquey… but still… the little Pot has definitely become a destination for travelers and expats, indicated by the number of shops selling trinkets, tourist clothes and Kampot pepper that’ve cropped up in the past year or so. Kampot pepper now has a geographic designation, which means the name cannot be used elsewhere and has considerably raised demand for it. We’re also Cambodia’s center of sea salt production, so salt and pepper town. Kampot is nothing compared to the tourist/expat Mecca’s of Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, but it’s also far from the foreigner deserts of all the other small towns in Cambo. A friend, who’s lived in Battambang - Cambodia’s second largest city - for quite a long time came to visit last year; he was amazed at the number of white faces ambling around town. There are advantages of a little boutiqueiness. While I’m perfectly comfortable in local restaurants and bars outfitted with plastic chairs, fold-up metal tables, glaring bright white florescent lights and décor consisting exclusively of beer posters and pennants, there is some comfort in surroundings created with the Westerner in mind. For one, in place of a TV blasting out Khmer karaoke songs or cartoons or soap-operadramas dubbed in Khmer, you get to hear those old familiar songs and musical styles. While I’m capable of handling an el cheapo cup of bitter, low quality coffee embellished with a super-sweet, pseudo-milk dairy creamer, a real cup of quality java is a positive treat. Kampot now has two, soon-to-be three, coffee shops in the western tradition. It takes a minimum of expat/travelers to support those types of venues. I don’t have any problem seeing lots of backpackers around as do some of my friends who get nervous and tetchy in their presence (actually, seeing people wheeling suitcases around rough third world streets and sidewalks looks a lot stranger to me) and I do appreciate that there’re enough of them around to enable a variety of businesses to sprout. It wasn’t that long ago that I had a couple or three bars to go to and had some days off in between. I’d get my entertainment kicks in the capital and return for an R and R in Kampot. Now, what with all that’s happening around town, I have to force myself to take a night or two off. For one there’s the Tuesday night trivia quiz at Blissful Guest House. The quiz consists of a picture round where you need to name people or places - one time it was boobs - followed by two general questions rounds quick, What’s the coldest capital city in the world? Ulan Bator, Mongolia. How many languages does BBC broadcast in? 27. What century was the main temple at Angkor Wat built? 12th. Finally there’s a music round where you have to identify both song and artist from the first five or ten seconds of the track. Since my team is a bunch of geriatrics, we pretty much fall down on almost anything recorded past the seventies and eighties, so we have to do very good on the general questions before the music round or we’re sunk. After bringing up the rear for a couple of weeks, and not winning for about two months, we’ve won twice in a row as of this writing. Prize is a 3 -liter tower of beer. Then there’s live music. It’s the August mini-high season and there are 5 nights a week of scheduled music. A lot of the same guys are involved but there’s a different mix on almost every occasion. Since I play conga drums I can sit in almost any night. There are also special events; the Greenhouse had a Saturday night 2 band party with more than 50 people attending. One friend, being too drunk to drive home, rented a room at 2am, another found himself crashed out on the tiny sand beach in the morning. A great time was had by all. Continued P28 The Greenhouse is the reincarnation of the former Snow’s bar which sat on the river in Phnom Penh for quite a long time. It was carefully dismantled, hauled down here and reassembled in a beautiful spot on Kampot’s river about 7 kilometers from town. About 15% of the building had to be replaced. Now the floor is actually level. The building was improved by removing the low ceiling on the front one third of the structure thus opening it up to the high vaulted ceiling. It’s a special place. While I tremendously appreciate the live music and have become addicted to quiz night, the greatest improvement for me personally is Ecran, our new movie theater. There are quite a few things I can say I miss about living in the states; Portland, Oregon in particular. My kids and grandkids and lifelong friends, mountains and forests and seashore crisscrossed with well maintained and marked trails, beautifully preserved architecture and respect for the past, but what I’ve really been missing is intelligent, artistic, brain-teaser flicks. Real movies, not car chase, crash and explode, shootem’-ups designed to appeal to teenage boys. Those kind of movies are slick and crafty and the special effects are spectacular, all right, but after 3 or 5 minutes of brilliantly choreographed car chases (or if it’s a Chinese movie, flying-through-the-air kungfu-fighting) I’m bored silly. Well, in this case, in terms of my own preferences, we’ve got it all. I’ve been going about twice a week since it opened a month ago, but almost every movie is one I want to see. The Artist, the silent movie that won lots of awards, started it off. Then there was Mr. Nice and Blow, two big-time-drugdealer movies. 127 hours, the flick about the guy who gets his arm wedged in between two rocks while out hiking and, after more than five days stuck there, has to cut it off to survive. The new Woody Allen; Dangerous Method, the film about the relationship between Jung and Freud; Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas; three music-hero movies; Bob Dylan, Pink Floyd and The Doors: What more could you ask for? And the set up is perfect: 4-meter screen with an excellent sound system and comfortable seating including two platforms with cushions and pillows. For most of you out there, probably 95%, having a legitimate cinema is not such a big deal because you’re probably in the habit of watching the latest flicks on your TV or computer. But since I don’t do TV - I’ve only cohabited with one for a total of four years since 1965 - a real theater is my only option. Besides, at 71 my eyes aren’t the greatest so I miss a lot watching on a small screen. Add the interruptions and casualness of watching at home and I’m just not interested. I want to be immersed, I want it to be an experience rather than time-killing entertainment. To sum up; I’m thrilled, my prayers have been answered, I couldn’t have done it better. Then there’s the grass hut/karaoke bars, the small town equivalent of big city hostess venues, which I’ve only recently discovered after nearly five years in Kampot. They’re usually out on the edge of town in a outdoor setting. There’ll be a row of karaoke rooms rentable for $3 per hour and tables under thatch roofs for just drinking. Beers range from 3000 riel to a dollar; usually served warm with ice. Similar to the typical low-cost local restaurant, all the décor is beer posters with an occasional mobile phone poster thrown in for good measure. Strangely enough they often display posters for beers they don’t sell. One has posters for a locally brewed wheat beer! Who ever heard of such a thing? Of course they don’t carry it. They’re fine just for drinking but if you want female companionship there’s a $3 charge for her to sit at your table, but no extra cost for lady drinks or bar fines for her to leave the premises. Hardly any speak English, so it’s a bit of a challenge communicating. Some of the girls are staff, most are floaters. If a venue is busy they make a few calls and like magic, they’re flooded with staff. All in all a big challenge for me to stay home a couple nights a week. There’s been a rush of work restoring or rebuilding riverfront properties. I mentioned that to a friend who told me the authorities told property owners to get it together or else. Of course, I have no idea what the ‘or else’ might entail, but we know how it works here in our adopted home. In some ways the old derelict buildings gave the town some character. Bou- tiquey is okay but not when it completely takes over the vibe. In any case the renovation is happening and is taking place at the start of a new property bubble. I’ve heard one riverfront owner asking $250,000 for a single shophouse. That price might be justifiable on Phnom Penh’s river, but for Kampot somewhere in the stratosphere in terms of true value. The only way that property could be worth that much is if you think someone else will pay even more for it in the future. For a simple rule of thumb, figure a property costing $250 grand needs to be able to garner 1% a month of that, or $2500, in rent to justify that price. In Kampot, that’s beyond absurd. The little burg is a special place and growing rapidly, but the most profitable business in town couldn’t afford half that in rent without it eating up almost all of its profits. Still, people with money seem to be starry eyed about the town’s potential and so ridiculous prices are being asked and outsize rents are being paid. For instance, the owner of the town’s new 8 story hotel set up his kid with a bar on the river. It’s cool, modern, nicely decorated but at a rent of $550 per month for a space that doesn’t extent very far back, a pure cash sink. With utilities and two staff, they’d have to sell close to 60 beers a night to break even, yet in the two months it’s been open I haven’t seen a total of 50 customers the whole time. Sure it’s low season, but still it’s quite unimaginable how they’ll make the rent even in high season, especially with new bars opening regularly and with all the renovating being done, even more new spaces are being created for competitors. Competition will also come from the renovation of the old market which is nearing completion. In addition to about 80 market stalls which are going for $125 month there’ll be room for several restaurant stalls. Once again, I don’t see where the business is going to come from, but I’ve been wrong about these things many times in the past, so who knows? With all the push for tourism and expats it came as a great surprise when new directional signs - you know the ones with the giant billboard on top - turned out to be only in Khmer. Even the one on the way up to Bokor has no English. Those are the only ones in the country I’ve seen that don’t include English. What could they have been thinking? The riverfront walkway renovation is almost complete with a public toilet, of all things, at the north end near the new bridge. The only public space yet to be improved is the pond at the south end of town. It’s 4 or 5 hectares and big enough for boating and other water fun. Technically it’s no longer a pond: it’s gotten so overgrown lately it’s more like a wetland. I sure hope the city has sensitive, green recreational plans for the space but I fear the worst. Finally, next to the governor’s mansion at the southern end of town, which I understand is slated to become a museum, a new elections office has been constructed. It’s been very nicely done in traditional Cambodian architecture except for two garish semicircular, three story columns of ultra modern blue glass. Who would do such a thing? That’s like putting flashing electric lights on Angkor Wat… Hey, wait… a few years ago the government did want to brighten up the temples with colored lights, only (thankfully) to be shot down by the Angkor Authority… Oh, well. My friend, mentioned in the first paragraph, who only planned to stay for a few days, stayed for more than ten. It happens a lot, people come expecting to pass quickly through, but then don’t want to leave. Stan Kahn PS. Don’t forget to visit Bokor mountain if the weather is clear or local pepper farms. Stunning caves at Kampong Trach visit Rabbit (Koh Tonsai) island for some tranquil beach relaxation. Or just eat crabs at the beach in Kep. Western & Asian Culture Comparison Visual comparisons between western and asian culture. It’s a little of generalizing, so you might disagree to some of them. Both have its own good and bad, like the western queues better than the asian, or the asian is more humble etc. Left for western culture and right for asian culture. Hope Springs First things first. Whether it’s a piece of lightweight fluff like “Hope Springs” or a deep, meditative movie like “Doubt”, this is a notice to all the world. If you are alive while Meryl Streep is performing, you MUST GO AND SEE WHAT SHE’S DOING. She is a living legend. She is perhaps the greatest actress of all time, no hyperbole here. So if you’re sharing the planet with her and it doesn’t take much to see what she’s doing, like going down to the theater and buying a ticket, check it out. If I had the chance to see Olivier on stage or watch Lenny Bruce in a stand-up club, I’d have done it. This isn’t much different. Go see her. So, is the movie any good? After thirty-one years of marriage, Tommy Lee Jones and Meryl Streep’s Arnold and Kay find themselves in a marriage of routine, rather than one of spark and romance. They go to Hope Springs, ME, to a retreat run by a lauded therapist (Steve Carell), to try and work things out. I’m in L.A., anyone married for thirty-one years is rare, so I’m already excited by seeing something new. Streep, in this film, plays a timid, sexless housewife, disappointed with the state of her marriage. At first, this shocked us. We’re used to seeing her as “The Iron Lady”, or that shrew from “The Devil Wears Prada”. I’m here to say she plays dowdy just as convincingly as she plays strong. She can play anything, and play it authentically. She’s amazing. Tommy Lee Jones has made a career out of being a loudmouth, barking orders in “The Fugitive”, “Men in Black” and “The Client”, but he’s been fantastic at transitioning into quiet, almost sad roles in his late career, if you think of “No Country for Old Men”, “The Company Men” and here he captures that really well. His character Arnold is against all the changes Carell’s therapist is try- ing to make in his marriage, but underneath any bluster, you can see real pain and even fear. He plays it all well. And Carell is good, but it’s really facilitating character. Nothing showy here, he just kinda makes the most of his goofy grin. But it is shaggy-haired Carell, which is good, reminds you of “Little Miss Sunshine”. Hair-cut-too-short-Steve Carell usually means you’re gonna see “Get Smart”. Not good. Most of the film works, although it does get a little bogged down, plot-wise, towards the end. As if the filmmakers said, “Well, we better wrap this up” and it stumbles a bit towards the finish line. And prepare for old people sex. Meryl moaning, crotch shots of Tommy Lee Jones. Just don’t say I didn’t prepare you. Director David Frankel does handle all the awkwardness with a steady, adult hand. You know your leads are old when 49-year old Elisabeth Shue is the hot, young bartender (and she is, in fact, most hot. Praise the gods!). Frankel puts a bunch of pop songs in the film, not all of them work, or are poorly placed. If you hear the song too clearly, perhaps it isn’t helping the drama, it’s becoming it. And you will want to go to Maine after this film. Dang place just looks aDORable! In the end, Frankel is serviceable, but not so-much a stand-out, having direct ed the easy-t o-swall ow “Marley & Me” and “The Devil Wears Prada”. But wouldn’t you like to see Streep with a GREAT director again? It’s been a while. But rather than work with someone to make a perfectly likeable film, I’d like to see her pair with Alexander Payne or Michael Mann and see what happens. But overall, this film is enjoyable due to the leads playing it genuine. They don’t play it funny, they don’t play it dramatic, they play it real and end up being both those things successfully Mitt’s insults, mistakes, and blunders abroad aren’t gaffes. They actually represent his true worldview. Mitt Romney’s not-so-excellent adventure abroad (“Romneyshambles,” the Brits are calling it) has been many things: shabby, hilarious, scandalous, an enlivening hoot to a dreary election season. One thing it shouldn’t be, though, is surprising. Charles Krauthammer, the right-wing commentator who usually finds every excuse to attack Barack Obama—he took Obama’s blinking during a tête-à-tête with Vladimir Putin as a sign of appeasement—pronounced himself befuddled by the GOP candidate’s flare of incompetence. These sorts of trips, Krauthammer said on Fox News Thursday night, are easy. You express solidarity with the allies, listen, nod your head, and say nice things or nothing at all. Instead, Romney questioned his hosts’ ability to run the Olympics, raised doubts about Londoners’ community spirit, and violated protocol by publicly mentioning a meeting with the head of MI-6. “It’s unbelievable, it’s beyond human understanding, it’s incomprehensible,” Krauthammer, normally a paragon of self-confidence, sputtered. “I’m out of adjectives … I don’t get it.” The thing that Krauthammer doesn’t get is that Romney is not the sort of businessman—that his brand of capitalism is not the sort of enterprise—that requires even the most elementary understanding of diplomacy, courtesy, or sensitivity to other people’s values, lives, or perceptions. The American capitalists-turnedstatesmen of an earlier generation— Douglas Dillon, Averell Harriman, Robert Lovett, John McCloy, Dean Acheson, Paul Nitze—took risks, built institutions, helped rebuild postwar Europe, befriended their foreign counterparts: in short, they cultivated an internationalist sensibility at their core. Whatever you think of their politics or Cold War policies generally (and there is much to criticize), financiers formed an American political elite in that era because finance (through the Marshall Plan, the World Bank, the IMF, and so forth) was so often the vehicle of American expansionism. By contrast, private-equity firms, such as Bain Capital, where Romney made his fortune, tend to view their client companies as cash cows, susceptible to cookie-cutter formulas from which the firms’ partners reap lavish fees, almost regardless of the outcome. Their ends and means breed an insularity, a sense of entitlement, a disposition to view all the world’s entities through a single prism and to appraise them along a single scale. How Romney should have behaved in London may have been obvious to Charles Krauthammer, who studies politics; it would have been obvious to politically ambitious businessmen from more traditional lines of work or from an earlier era. But as we have been graced to see this week, it is not necessarily obvious to Romney himself. Already, Romney’s surrogates back home are spinning with frantic intensity. In the face of merrily savage media coverage of the candidate’s remarks and British officials’ rejoinders, Louisiana Governor Bobby Jindal said, with as much nonchalance as he could muster, “The reality is, we’re not worried about overseas headlines … I think the focus needs to continue to be on what’s happening here at home. That’s what’s important to voters.” This may be, but why then did Romney go abroad in the first place? It wasn’t to watch his wife’s horse trot and dance in the Olympics’ dressage competition (as he scoffed in another headshaking remark, certain to anger a large number of wives who feel their husbands don’t take their interests seriously). The intent, obviously, was to demonstrate his comfort and capabilities on the world scene—a demonstration that, at least so far, has gone about as well as North Korea’s last few missile tests. And London, his first stop, was supposed to be the easy part of the trip, the place where the white, patrician candidate could forge bonds through, as one of his spokesmen put it, their common “Anglo-Saxon heritage.” Not only did Romney fail at that no-brainer, he also put a foot through stateside customs. Before leaving on his overseas tour, he said that he would not criticize the current president on foreign soil, a long-standing, universally respected tradition in American politics. But then he spoke at an exclusive, closed-door fundraising dinner (tickets went for $50,000 to $70,000 apiece) sponsored by Barclays bank, which is currently in the middle of a whopping financial crisis. Eleven members of Parliament wrote a letter to the bank’s board members, demanding that they stop swelling Romney’s war chest and instead focus on repairing their own problems. Will Americans express outrage at this whiff of foreign influence? Obama catches hell when he raises money from Hollywood movie stars. What would happen if he flew to London or Paris and raised money from European movie stars (who don’t have as much influence as, say, European bankers). Had Romney’s handlers dipped into their candidate’s biography, they might have put the kibosh on this trip from the get-go. Joshua Keating, a blogger at Foreign Policy, dug up the following passage from Romney’s 2010 book, No Apology: The Case for American Greatness: “England is just a small island. Its roads and houses are small. With few exceptions, it doesn’t make things that people in the rest of the world want to buy. And if it hadn’t been separated from the continent by water, it almost certainly would have been lost to Hitler’s ambitions.” Nice. Anglo-Saxon heritage indeed. Presidential material? Get serious. The impact of Ecuador’s decision to grant political asylum to Julian Assange is still quite tangible internationally, a rarity in a world where no one remembers yesterday’s news. Even hours before it was announced, Ecuador’s decision to grant asylum to Assange because of the lack of international guarantees of due process of law for the founder of Wikileaks, had the effect of generating an overreaction by the government of Great Britain, which bypassed diplomatic law and threatened to storm the embassy of Ecuador in London to arrest Assange. This aggressive outburst by Britain against Latin America made in the long shadow of the Falklands invasion was immediately labeled as colonialism. It has been a catalyst to unite all countries of the region around Ecuador. The government of President Rafael Correa has received the backing of the two most powerful Latin American organizations, ALBA and UNASUR. In at least one of these institutions are Brazil, Argentina, Colombia, Venezuela, Paraguay, Uruguay, Chile, Peru, as well as other countries in the region. In advance of scheduled meetings of both organizations this weekend in Guayaquil to generate a statement of solidarity with Ecuador, several foreign ministers in Latin America have already expressed their opposition to Britain’s threat to enter the embassy of Ecuador by force. The U.S. State Department said that the United States “does not recognize the concept of asylum as part of international law” because the U.S. not a signatory to the Convention on Diplomatic Asylum of 1954. They added that this is not a matter that should involve the OAS, although almost all of the other OAS member countries think otherwise and voted to convene an emergency session. The US stated yet again that it will not intervene in the case of Julian Assange. Yet, the US government’s repetition of “we are not involved” fails to convince. Too many statements by U.S. lawmakers and officials denouncing WikiLeaks and threatening Assange with imprisonment for life and even the death penalty have been widely disseminated in the world press. The fundamental reason that attorneys for Julian Assange believe their client cannot accept extradition to Sweden is because from there Assange will be almost certainly delivered to the U.S. That the U.S. has initiated a secret grand jury proceeding to indict Assange for crimes including espionage and treason is not mere speculation. According to Assange’s lawyer, Michael Ratner, President Emeritus of the internationally recognized Center for Constitutional Rights, a secret grand jury in Alexandria, Virginia, was convened to investigate violations of the Espionage Act, where the grand jury received testimony including Twitter messages related to Assange and WikiLeaks. An FBI agent who was a witness in the case of detained soldier Bradley Manning has stated that the “founders, owners and managers” WikiLeaks were under investigation. Ratner also noted that the FBI has compiled a dossier of 42,135 pages pertaining to Assange. In this context, Assange’s fears of being extradited, imprisoned and deprived of any right to a fair defense in the U.S. should be considered well-founded and reasonable. And in the same way, the decision to grant asylum by Ecuador should be considered a humanitarian decision viewed within the legal framework of international law governed by the Vienna Convention. From this context, there arises a unique situation in which a Latin American country now stands as a defender of the human rights of an individual against the will of two European countries, Britain and Sweden, who refuse to give assurances that Assange will not be extradited to the United States. What irony that a small nation which until recently was considered a mere “banana republic” today openly protects a major world icon of freedom of expression from persecution by United States and its allies. Ecuador’s president Rafael Correa’s grant of political asylum to Assange has opened an international front opposing the ethical/ moral paradigm of Britain and the United States. His decision has created some startling opposition in the north. Many still do not believe what they have heard. Similarly Correa’s domestic opposition has yet to assimilate this sovereign declaration which stands in opposition to the largest trading partner of Ecuador, the United States. Businessmen and some former foreign ministers and other figures have made the usual statements to The Guardian, The Economist, and Ecuador’s El Comercio, warning of risks to Ecuador for opposing the designs of Europe and America. So far more than two days after the asylum announcement, these views have been overshadowed by the support generated for the decision and in protest of Britain’s extreme reaction. This was demonstrated in the special session of the Ecuadorian National Assembly. With 73 votes in favor, 7 abstentions and no votes against, Ecuador’s Parliament overwhelmingly endorsed the decision of the President to grant asylum to the creator of WikiLeaks and strongly denounced the British threat to forcibly enter the embassy as a violation of Ecuador’s sovereignty. On the streets of Quito, the common denominator has been the proverbial caution. At first sight, neither enthusiasm for or opposition to the grant of asylum to Assange could be perceived. However, everyone seems to be carefully following reports of international reaction. On the radio, on television and in print, there are detailed reports of the reactions of every international government and political institution. People listen attentively, as though it is hard for them to believe that their government has created such an international stir. And that this was not caused by the price of oil or bananas or drug trafficking in neighboring Colombia. Some have abandoned their reserve and openly demonstrate their pride as citizens of a sovereign nation. Others still remain cautiously silent. Missing the obvious Senator Kok An said the pair embezzled more than US$58 million from Anco Brothers, which is run by his wife Sok Im. He was referring to the December 7 verdict that found former rector Tep Kolap and her husband Heng Chheang guilty based in part on two controversial audits. Both were sentenced to near maximum sentences of four-and-a-half years in jail. Their defence lawyers told the Post that the Appeals Court had been unusually slow in hearing the numerous appeals they made to it since the two were arrested last June, including appeals against the refusal to grant them bail. Tep Kolap’s husband Heng Chheang had been the treasurer of Anco Brothers, which used an account registered under the names of Sok Im and Heng Chheang. About $60 million was transferred from the account to another registered under the names of Heng Chheang and Tep Kolapbetween 2001 and 2010. Heng Chheang has said the same amount was transferred from the account he shared with his wife back to the one he shared with Sok Im, and his lawyers have provided transaction records they say verify this, as well as other records showing funds being transferred to overseas accounts in Sok Im’s name. A PPIU student following the case with an accounting team, reviewed the ledgers pertaining to the embezzled money and was incredulous that the case continued. “If the appeal court had read all the bank documents and strictly considered the case, [they would see] there was no money missing from Kok An’s companies.” A defence lawyer for tycoon Kok An revealed that the senator had filed lawsuits in March against six relatives of Heng Chheang and his wife. Long Dara, a lawyer for Kok An, said that the six defendants were sued for defamation and receiving stolen goods, namely money – and goods bought with money – that had been stolen from the senator’s company. Sounds like a normal story here (power versus justice). One intriguing thing is that apparently there was no company account and all this went on in private accounts. So was there any tax paid? Doubtful! Maybe the authorities need to look into that aspect of the case! KR crunch The extraordinarily expensive chambers will run out of money at the beginning of September and are busily running around trying to get donors to cough up pledges they have already made. Even if they do, the money won’t last until the end of the year such is the rate they get through it! New draft in the pipeline A draft amendment to the Land Traffic Law has been finalized. When the new draft is approved, the fine for not wearing a helmet will be increased to 21,000 riels (about $5), and will also be applied to passengers who will be required to wear helmets. Contrary to popular belief there is no law against using your lights during the day! Phone use is prohibited whilst driving unless it has a hands free equipment (just like all the motorbike drivers running around on the phone. My hands are free of the handlebars! Must be a local interpretation)! In towns the use of high beam is prohibited but outside towns high beam can be used so long as it will not interfere with the vision of other drivers coming in the opposite direction. Tell that to the drunk twat in a Lexus screaming down the road late at light blinding everyone! Oops night time = No cops! words and cartoon provided by: Maggie Huff-Rouselle, MA, MBA & Ton van der Velden, MD, MPH Cambodia has hit headline news in the United States with stories in the Washington Post, the New York Times and even the Wall Street Journal about the innovative new family planning program, funded by a foundation based in New York, the Chutzpa Institute. The pilot program, based in Phnom Penh has introduced oral sex as a lowcost effective method of birth spacing. While offering no potential for pharmaceutical and medical supply companies to increase their profit margins, the birth spacing method is readily affordable to Cambodians, as it requires equipment that almost all Cambodians currently have in their homes; access is therefore not limited by transportation or economic costs. Oral sex, when practised exclusively, is also a relatively effective (although not foolproof) way of reducing the spread of sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) and HIV/AIDS. With the exception of condoms (which are less effective as a birth spacing method), this is not true of other birth spacing methods; indeed, some modern contraceptive methods which rely on drugs or medical devices may actually contribute marginally to the spread of STDs and HIV/AIDS. The method is easy and a group of educators in Sangkat Boeung Pralit, Helpers Applying Remedial Learning in Oral Tenderness (HARLOT), has been so wildly popular that they are now being imitated by a grassroots organization, Gents Into Giving Oral Love Often (GIGOLO). Both groups have achieved financial sustainability through direct client fees. In addition to these economic and public health benefits, initial studies conducted by Sexual Health through Avanteguarde Methods (SHAM), an international NGO with Headquarters in Phnom Penh, have indicated that the method is gaining popularity among Cambodians and enlightened foreigners. No formal public campaign has been conducted, and the program is growing entirely by word of mouth. The popularity of the method increases one or the other partner’s sexual pleasure. This is largely due to the indirect effects of decreased anxiety about the risks of pregnancy. By contrast, oral sex seems to have had a direct effect on sexual pleasure, particularly for women. During focus group discussions, researchers found that as many as half of the men reported increased sexual pleasure. However further probing during the focus group discussions revealed that, while some men experienced increased pleasure directly, most derived indirect pleasure from the increased pleasure of their partners. Roughly seventy percent of the women in the study reported an increased ability to achieve single or multiple orgasm during love making. The results of the pilot program and related research could have both profound and highly controversial effects on population programs worldwide. “This information is potentially explosive,” said Dr. Donald Wienerburger, speaking on behalf of the Chutzpa Institute. “Pharmaceut-ical and medical supply companies will be concerned about protecting their market shares in the modern c o n t r a c e p t i v e i n d u s t r y. Conservative politicians par ti cular l y Repu bli can congressmen in the United States - may block foreign aid funding support even more agressively than they have for other family planning activities, notably abortions. Oral sex and puritan values do not mix well.” Bu s i n e s s a l a l ys t s working with the Chutzpa Institute think the biggest barrier to this innovative contraceptive method obtaining a lion’s share of the world’s contraceptive market may be that there is no tangible product to sell and no diagnosis or prescription needed. The lucrative medical technology business gets no piece of the pie. Illiterate men and women can be trained as Professional Sex Tutors (PSTs), and this is theoretically all that is needed to increase the method’s prevalence. “Doctors and pharmacists licensed or unlisenced - don’t like this at all,” said Ch’nguñ, a PST who has been working for HARLOT since it was first established. “They are beginning to realize that they are being by -passed. Their clients are coming directly to us now.” The small group of PSTs have already obtained brand recognition for PST in the streets of Phnom Penh via simple word of mouth advertising. “We just say, PST, PST,” says Ch’nguñ, “and people know what we’re selling.” Business analysts may have blown the concept away too quickly. O n the heels of his comment that "legitimate" rape is "really rare" and that "the woman's body has ways to shut that whole thing down," U.S. House Science Committee member Representative Todd Akin(R-MO) schooled newsmen today using the same sex education course curriculum he says he has taught to Liberty University students for years. "As terribly enjoyable as rape must be for the slutty woman," he said, "the true victim here is the rapist's sperm. Totally tortured by the confusion and utterly lost in the tangle of lady parts by misdirection and false signage, only the little guys with the keenest sense of direction in the dark have any hope of ever seeing the light at the end of the tunnel emitting from the baby place," he explained to newsmen now staring incredulously at one another. "The poor sperm, created by the Almighty to do it all without seeking help or directions, might as well be searching for the legendary holy grail instead of the lady gold. The calculating wench simply overwhelms the little tykes with mystery, obstacles and subterfuge. First, there are the three swimming pools, two of which lead to fool's gold - one yellow like gold the other not even close. The sperm that dive into the correct pool must first deal with the erect clitoris. Right in the middle of the way, it might as well be the Great Wall of China. Then there is the long and winding absolutely unlit passage with no guardrails to prevent wild mishaps and spinouts. All 'Welcome' signs are covered by shocking pink or teal drapes. Signage is redirected in opposite or multiple direc- tions. Green light signal heads beckon the guileless sperm forward only to crash into brick walls disguised as elegantly adorned egg look-a-likes," Akin lectured to the dumbfounded. "Upon reaching the great lady chamber that some call the uterus, the naked sperm are turned away by the lying receptionist citing a nonexistent 'dress code' while the clothed sperm are told they have no 'reservation' or 'ID' when such sperm suppression tactics are unheard of outside the rape sex community. Even if a brazen few get past the conniving moody receptionist and make it to the room housing the egg, they must then guess which among the hundred or so imposter eggs is the one true zygote personhood material. Of course, the siren secret service unit are all crack gymnasts each willing to take a sperm for the egg she protects from unwanted fertilization by diving in front of any sperm projectile. Any invaders that succeed in making actual contact with the matching 23 chromosome cell egg are rewarded for their efforts with the final indignity of being hurled from the pool to certain suffocation by a girl." Akin concluded his interesting press conference by smiling happily and telling reporters he enjoyed teaching sex ed at Liberty and found it "exhilarating" to share his "vast stores of knowledge" of what he called "down there dirty lady stuff" with "the young people... I find that I learn more from them than they learn from me," he said to nodding newsmen. W elcome to my first Pub Page. How did a happy and lazy bar troll like me write this piece ... I was propping up a bar – a bit too late in the evening and a few too many drinks already consumed – minding my own business and watching a lovely and culturally significant Khmer tripudiary performance when someone approached me. Much to my surprise, he offered to pay me to go drinking; with the only condition being that I had to write about where I went (and make frequent references bar called Skirts). Normally when men approach me at bars and offer me money I am far more leery, but this seemed to be too good to be true so I suspended disbelief and here we are. In order to write this, I faced my own Kobayashi Maru. As I laboured to get a proper feel for each bar, the drunker I became and the less I remembered about where I went and what happened. Thus forcing me to keep going out and trying again – I suspect I went to the same places more than once as more and more people seemed to know my name as the week went on. This month we will start with some hostess bars... 136 st – a few changes lately - 69 Bar has closed down for renovations. For any customers looking for their favourite drink vacuums, they have been re-distributed temporarily among Mr. Butterfly, Candy Bar and Singer. Enjoy the hunt and be warned – with all the shifting around that normally goes on between these bars and the 69 Bar staff redistribution, you may find a number of your one and only’s working in the same bar temporarily. I am really looking forward to watching a friend be extra uncomfortable in Singer where four of his usual admirers could be found as of writing. Both Singer and Candy Bar are fun places to go but are more so as they are now extra staffed. Generally Singer has been the least attractive of the hostess family due its relative under-staffing. Mr. Butterfly is also a pretty decent place, but the bottleneck at the entrance way and the lack of space to walk through are huge draw backs. 136 Bar has closed and moved around the corner to 130 st making the name a bit more confusing. Prices seem about the same, a lot of the staff moved over, but the new digs are much bigger and more comfortable. Looks like 136 Bar still intends to have live music, very popular with a lot of their regulars, and the new location is much better suited. Of course, no one wanted 136 st to have a hostess bar deficit so, much to our relief, Best 136 Bar opened in the old 136 Bar space showing incredible ingenuity and creativity. Actually it seems to be a decent replacement without the stage area and with the new paint job; the bar was much more enticing. Drinks were about average for hostess bars and the staff was friendly without being too annoying. Regular 136 st hounds will see a number of familiar faces. Skirts (just a gratuitous reference for contractual purposes). Many more bars on 136 st but to mix it up, lets jump over to 104 st for a bit. Not many changes there – although there seems to be a dearth of customers most nights – good for those who like bars with lots of unoccupied staff. It appears that Air Force is the current star of the street – tons of energy, a large and varied staff and generally the most customers. The classics: Rose, Zanzibar, 104 Bar were all moving along with what seems to be occasional waves of customers but none of them were crowed during my week of intensive research. If you visited any of those three bars in the last five years, you would not be surprised during your visit now although with so much more competition these days, none of them have the cachet of yesteryear. Rose Bar seemed to have the greatest number of staff on hand over the past week with enough for multiple swarms in the pool room and at the front bar to operate simultaneously. 104 Bar still has an amazing selection of video/mp3 and the front couple of tables are excellent places to down a few while listening to some offbeat and lesser known tunes. After a hard evening of hostessing – what to do? Golden Sorya Mall is located across the street from Heart of Darkness on 51 st and has Pontoon on one of its corners. While many bars are open at different hours, the mall comes alive in the middle of the night; sometimes it seems that everyone who is out partying late walks through or by the mall. The central court yard has been growing more popular with two new bars opening in the past few weeks. I won’t bother with individual bar reviews this month but as a whole, the mall has an amazing assortment of places with cheap drinks, pool tables, a couple of convenience stores with outdoor tables selling alcohol and even one Cat Walk-style hostess bar. It is also the home of great late night food: pizza, kebabs, burgers, subs, Khmer food, Thai food and even a dim sum place that may actually open one day. Not to forget three meat wagons and long lived Khmer place across the street from the mall between the new mai Lien and White Cobra. Next month – if my liver holds out – more hostess bars, a few other places that serve drinks and Skirts . Fan Man BITS FROM THE BEACH T he USNS Mercy visited Sihanoukville this last month. It was the Mercy’s 2nd visit to these shores the first coming in 2010. USNS Mercy is a hospital ship and has a crew of 1200. It has an on board helicopter to transport patients and supplies to the mainland. They provided free optometry, dental, pediatrics, and general medicine. Also, veterinary services for small animals. They also found time to visit our local brewery and beaches for a little R&R. The only minus about their visit was the behavior of the tuk tuk drivers and bracelet and sun glass sellers who hounded the crew as they were getting off the buses that transported them from the port to either Victory Hill or Golden Lions roundabout. There were no police of any description any where near these drop off points and it caused upset and anarchy. Many thanks to Sean Gleeseon for his article on Ochheuteal beach last month in the Phnom Penh posts 7days mag from all of the local business’s Your article was very positive and a great advert for Sihanoukville, NOT.. Next time spend a little more time on your research and get both sides of the story. Absolute bloody garbage. A few bars celebrated their anniversary this past month Kong Bar on Serendipity beach road and Charlie Harpers in town both did well in their first year. A favourite with backpackers and expats, Monkey Republic was celebrating 7 years in business, well done to you all. A 5 meter long whale shark was found floating dead off the coast of Sihanoukville recently. The fish weighed over a tonne and fed a lot of locals. One of Sihanoukvilles super tuk tuk’s had a big crash up on Victory Hill. Traveling at excessive speed down past all the girlie bars. Bayon Pearnik ® Adam Parker, Publisher and Editor-in-Chief A. Nonnymouse, Wordsmiths Sharpless, Photos ——————————————————————————————————————————————————— Maxwell Perkins, Editor Postmortis Dexter Coffin III, Lawrence Connelly, Rich, Well-Connected Friends of Publisher Jeff Elson, Associate Deputy Editor Dr. Safari, Health Editor Ian Velocipede, Editor-at-Large James Eckhart, Editor-at-Larger A. Fortiori, Dan Meat, Etta Moga, Assistant Associate Deputy Editors Cletus J. “Bubba” Huckabee, Jr., Movie Reviewer Edward R. Murrow, Famous Journalist Autmean Loy, Prakhai Thuich, Som Muiroi, Overworked Proles Sdap Otbaan, Ta Madong Thiet, Translators It, Coffee Dim Sambo, Systems Support Chubb, Reception ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— The Bayon Pearnik is an independent magazine dedicated to raising beer money as well as encouraging debate over standards of taste, humor and journalistic ethics. Published every month or so in Phnom Penh. Not to be taken seriously or while driving or operating heavy machinery. Always consult your doctor first because we're not responsible for what happens to you. ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Advertising, Editorial, Inquiries and anything else : The Bayon Pearnik, P.O. Box 2279, Phnom Penh 3. Advertising, Editorial : 012-803-968 (Adam), Advertising: 012 887 699 Mol (KHMER/ENGLISH) E-mail: bp@forum.org.kh www.bayonpearnik.com “We accept anybody’s ravings—we often print them!” As it tried to negotiate the Corner bar corner he got it all wrong. Crashing into the Novo a long running French Bar next door. Thankfully the bar was shut so nobody was injured. The super tuk tuk and the bar however were a real mess. The driver repaired all the damage to the bar. The Queens hill headland route to get to Otres beach has been closed and they seem to be building on the disused beach front which you had to ride through. No worries though the authorities have paved the road nearly to the end of Otres beach (after god knows how long). They have nearly completed the public park area in the middle of the beach and are rumoured to be surfacing the beach front road in the near future but we’re not holding our breath for that one! Development of Otres seems to be steaming ahead with plenty of new resorts being constructed. One westerner is reported as having purchased 6000sqm of land to construct a 200+ room hotel and casino! As per usual nobody has died down here for months as the local constabulary seem to be enforcing the no reporting policy quite well. Just remember: Strange white powders may not be what you think they are and Viagra etc along with large quantities of alcohol can stop your ticker dead in its tracks! This months Casino review is the Kompong City Casino. Dress Code $$$$$ Table Games $$ Service/Hostess $$ Free Beer $ Slot Machines $$$ From the outset when the King and I rocked up to the next Casino near the Golden Lions roundabout we could have thought we were in Vegas with all the flashy and neon lights out the front we knew we had arrived at the Kompong Som City Casino but how we were deceived! Steeping onto the main gambling floor we parted through the wall of secondary cigarette smoke by the hundreds of punters scrawling around. I personally had flash backs and really thought I stepped into the real 'Fear and Loathing in Sihanoukville' The usual spread of Baccarat tables (7), solitary Black Jack table and 5 Automated Roulette tables! We made our way through the thick traffic with hands in pockets as just about every moto dope seemed to be on the floor (they must have been having a Union meeting) and plonked down onto the Roulette table. Finally after some hand waving we got served and was instantly told that there was a three beer policy, which just didn't work for the King & I naturally. After once again donating to the Casino we had a wee walk around and came across a food stall we jumped the queue and waited in line and low and behold there was free food. (penny drops that’s why every moto dop was here). Not that the food was special just a whole lot of noodles which we didn't mind at the time, anything really to start soaking up the free Angkor that we had consumed already. All in all not a must see Casino unless your've got no cash and need a free feed and three beers to wash it all down. La Dolce Vita, that’s why we live in Asia isn’t it? Lazy days whiled away in the sultry pervasive tropical heat, time to enjoy life, and drinking, and eating. Well an Italian eatery on st172 has taken the name, does it indeed help us to reach the nirvana its name suggests, perhaps through the sublime art of pizza making? A small shop front restaurant, among many others that offer budget food and drinks, it doesn’t transport you to Italy with its aesthetics. Though, it does certainly benefit from the lazy and relaxed vibe of a street which enjoys comparatively less traffic than those around it. A simple rattan seat, alfresco on the curbside, and an ice cold beer do bring a mellow smile on though, as does a flick through the menu which has a good selection of pizzas and pastas, as well as a selection of Asian dishes that are a staple for many of the backpackers passing through trying to connect with the country by eating semi-authentic food in backpacker bars. Pizza was why I came though, and I ordered the most meat laden. Served on a thick wooden board initial impressions were good, with the exception of the base that had a glossy sheen like an Indian Roti, ghee perhaps? It was well topped though with just about enough cheese, and plenty of sauce in the places where the cheese wasn’t. The sauce and toppings matched their first impressions, as did the base. The sauce was the star, rich and flavorful, and complementing the toppings, it brought together the flavors for a nice little party on the palette. The base was not to the detriment of the well topped pizza, but it did fail to ice the cake. It was crisp enough, but lacked any doughy textures. As I remember it was good value, and I left a little unsure as to whether I’d be able to do as I planned and head to Sundance and try something on their new menu. I went over for a beer, had a few, and easily regained my appetite. Having never had a corn dog I couldn’t turn one down at the first opportunity, or the rest of them as they are actually served as a plate of mini dogs. I didn’t even really know what they were, although I did know they were somewhat popular at baseball games. For those who share my ignorance of US fast food gastronomy it’s a hotdog in a cornmeal batter. Simple and effective, dip it in mustard, and consume with beer, I did, and I enjoyed it. Something else I hadn’t tried was TGIF at the Kingdom brewery. Unfortunately we arrived late so we didn’t get a tour of the brewery, and more worryingly we were informed they were out of food. This had however changed by the time I came out of the toilet and I bought a full price ticket for drinks and food. Walking in the bar was packed. I opted for the pilsner to start which I had high hopes for directly from the tap at the brewery. It was cool and refreshing, but a little lacking in the vibrancy of flavor I was hoping for, still well worth hammering a good few back and of course the Kingdom dark still remained to be tried. Then it was outside to locate my companions and check out the spread of food, well at least its remains. All that was left was a big pile of sauerkraut, and some bratwursts. Oh well, what to do? I slathered a big scoop of the sauerkraut onto the plate and topped it with half the sausages, two. I tucked in greedily, and wouldn’t share my sausage when asked, though putting it like that who would. Still did feel a bit guilty when I found out my mates hadn’t got food tickets. What to be done then? Have another beer of course, it’s all included. I had a couple more pale beers and then switched to the dark which was being served from the bottles. This was also a little lacking in depth, but that of course had the advantage of making it go down quicker. My issue with the beer is I guess a matter of personal taste. I believe both the pale and dark beers were substantially more flavorsome when they were launched, but were softened to broaden their appeal. It would be nice though if some of that flavor could just make it into the draft taps at the brewery, just my suggestion. The bar itself was pretty sharp with copper and brass fixtures behind the bar and some alluring green leather couches along one wall. Whilst I was inside admiring it something else caught my attention. A plate of food was wandering around the bar lost, in the hands of a staff member, a full plate with kebabs and bread, and more sausage and bratwurst. Initially it didn’t have my name on it, an oversight that was swiftly corrected with a whinge and a little begging. My appetite fulfilled, thirst returned with a vengeance and we set about slugging back the lager until the final bell rang. Definitely recommend visiting once, and I guess you should arrive on time to ensure you get food, and a tour, and of course you will then have more drinking time too. A tuk tuk got us back into town and deposited us outside Ben’s Bar. Between there and Starlight we had a good few night caps and enjoyed their warm and titillating service til the early hours. The Dolce Vita indeed.