The Last Cutters of Reeds
Transcription
The Last Cutters of Reeds
In south of France, in a place called "Small Camargue", they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting "sagne" - provençal word for reeds - is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. We've met the last cutters of reeds, the "sagneurs". The last cutters of reeds Photos ©José Nicolas/Lightmediation Text ® Anne Sophie Prusak Contact- Thierry Tinacci Lightmediation agency +33 (0)6 61 80 57 21 thierry@lightmediation.com 418-01: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.- The reeds in the area of Galician 418-01: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.- The reeds in the 418-02: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. -The reeds in 418-03: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. -The reeds in 418-04: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Harvest with 418-04: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Harvest with machine 418-05: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Harvest with 418-06: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-The last cutters of 418-07: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. -Hand cutting 418-08: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance 418-10: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, cutter since 20 years 418-09: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-10: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-11: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-12: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.- André Calba, 418-15: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, cutter since 20 years 418-13: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-14: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-15: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-André Calba, 418-16: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Bernard Testud, 418-17: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Bernard Testud, hand cutter 418-17: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Bernard Testud, 418-18: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Bernard Testud, 418-19: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Fabrication of 418-20:In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Fabrication of 418-19: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Fabrication of doormat with reeds at Perret's 418-21: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Fabrication of 418-22: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Roof and 418-23: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Roof and 418-24:In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Framework and 418-21: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Fabrication of doormat with reeds at Perret's 418-25:In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. 418-26: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Nicolas Bouterin, 418-27:In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Nicolas Bouterin, 418-28: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. 418-03: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. -The reeds in Vauvert 418-29: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Nicolas Bouterin 418-30: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Hand cutting 418-31: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance; 418-32:In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-The reeds in the 418-29: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Nicolas Bouterin 16 years old cutter 418-33: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-The reeds in the 418-37: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-The reeds in the 418-35: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. 418-36: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-The reeds in the 418-08: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance 418-22: In south of France, in a place called Small Camargue, they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting sagne ( provençal word for reeds ) is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance.-Roof and framework making The last cutters of reeds In south of France, in a place called "Small Camargue", they are only a few to go on cuting reeds by hand. In the swamps of Vauvert and Gallician, cutting "sagne" - provençal word for reeds - is an old tradition. But this seven hundred years old tradition, little profitable, is in process of disappearance. We've met the last cutters of reeds, the "sagneurs". Wearing high waders, a sickle in the hand, André Calba sinks into swamps. He seizes an armful of reeds, turns it down towards him and he slices it. The day hardly points on the swamps of Vauvert, in Small Camargue. André counted three white frosts and a blow of Mistral before beginning the harvest of Phragmites australis, the reed - sagne in provençal language. Leaves felt, now sagne is rising straight, golden and ready to be cut. With the curve of his "sagnadou" - his sickle-, he checks the width of the package, which he ties up with a wire. He removes the "courtillon" - reed fragments-, compress the bundle of sticks against the flat bottom of his boat and put it in "fan-shaped" on the already harvested packages. These gestures, taught by his father, André repeated them every day, from November untill April, during twenty years. This time, he will stay only one week in the middle of the swamp, only for pleasure. " Twenty five years ago, I returned on average 200 packages a day. It was high, fine and magnificent sagne. We were about fifty sagneurs and we earned good money. Today, they are no more than four or five men who cut by hand. Working "from night to night", they make maximum 120 packages, because the sagne is rarer." André works henceforth in a factory, but he does not resist to the appeal of swamp, where he comes to ressourcer. " It is a magic universe. When I am in the middle of the swamp, surrounded with reeds of several metres high which swing and sing in the wind, I feel perfectly free. The shouts of birds, the contact of animals, reed that cracks under my steps ? I can not do without it. " A tradition which began in the XIVth century Old ancestors of André already harvested sagne. On February 4th of 1302, Guigon de Roche, Lord of the country at this time, grants the "true inhabitants" the right to pick reeds on a part of his swamp. This privilege still lasts today, on the municipal parts of the swamp, no need to own land to cut sagne. From Middle Age to the beginning of the XXth century, sagne is cut green in summer and it is dried on the spot. It provides the major part of feeds of asses and mules. Winter cut of reed is rare: it's only used to cover herdsmen's huts and to make some "paillassons" (doormats), reed covers intended to protect vegetable farmings. After second world war, harvest of sagne takes another dimension. The enormous food needs in all Europe urge the Northern countries, especially Holland, to reclaim their swamps to gain farmlands. They are then in scarcity of reeds, which they use to cover the roofs of their houses. Traders go and search new sources of supply. They discover reed of Camargue and its excellent quality. From the fifties, the market develops. More and more sagneurs start winter exploitation of reed. It is the beginning of a golden era for the inhabitants of Vauvert and Gallician. " Sagne is our petroleum, André explains. Not need to plant it, it grows by itself. You just need to collect it. " Vauvert counts until 120 sagneurs and this activity is very profitable. " For a long time the price of a reed package followed the price of one glass of Pastis (*),André says, smiling. With records of 235 packages a day, sagneurs were almost rich. " Swamp, a fragile balance. But swamp is fragile, and it gets damaged bit by bit. Sagneurs are not the only ones to pace up and down its 2000 hectares. Fishermen, hunters and breeders are as well at home there, and they all have different interests. Especially concerning management of water in swamps. " Fishermen want some water all year long and they want to master the entrances of water during the time of spawn, Alain Sandoz, a biologist, notes (**), sagneurs wishes short summer assecs and especially a renewal of water. Breeders do not want too much water, to have pasture land. Hunters of waterfowl, who are an important pressure group, require a lot of water in summer to be able to attract game as soon as the hunting season begins, but also to be able to move their boats in the swamp. " To manage the entrances of water their way, private owners settle their own dikes. Result: untimely drainings and salt and polluted water entrances via the Rhone canal in Sète deteriorated the swamp and the ponds. " We all have a part of responsibility, André agrees. Now we try to repair the damages, but it is too late. At least concerning Sagne. The surfaces of exploitation decreased, and the reed is less dense, less high, less beautiful. " And the harvest is less profitable. Only four or five sagneurs left ? " Today cutters of reeds change their profession, either because they are demoralized by the state of the swamp, or because they do not earn enough money any more. " The profession, which besides has to face the competition of reed from Hungary and Turkey, is in full transformation. To win in profitability, some people imagine to adapt agricultural machines to cut reeds more quickly. It is the choice of both André's brothers. " A machine cuts the equivalent of 1200 packages a day. Between eight and ten times more than a traditional sagneur. " Once his boat is filled with a beautiful gilded dome, André arranges his tools the sagnadou, the stone of sharpening and the wire. Thanks to of a big perch, the "partègue", he propels the boat through canals, "roubines" and "ragues" according to their size, which form a real labyrinth. Sagne flaps heavily on its long stalks, its plumes sometimes veiling the sun. The boat slides noiselessly on black waters, creating depressions which send back circles from a bank to the other. An eagle glances through majestically the scene. " Sometimes I still get lost, he regrets. When the reed is very high and when it closes behind me, I have no more point of reference, it is impossible to know where I came from. " Stories of sagneurs flooded, lost or swallowed by quicksands are famous in the village. ...and a dozen of "tie-men" André Calba goes down from his boat and greets sixteen-year-old Nicolas Bouterin. A little farther, on the bank, an huge heap of cut sagne is lying. Nicolas is a "tie-man". " Machines cut sagne on large surface areas, weather it is beautiful or not. Then it is necessary to select it, and to put it in packages, he explains. We are a dozen of "tie-men". He takes an armful of sagne and spits in his palms before catching his "comb", a rake with a short handle. He "espousse" with his comb to bring down roots and old reeds. The fragments of sagne fly around him. Just like André, he binds the package and pulls to break the wire. " Every "tie-man" has his own way to binds. If somebody steals a package to me and puts it in his heap, I recognize it at once. " Nicolas left school last year and does not imagine his life anywhere else that in the swamp. " Since I am young, I like reeds and swamps. As soon as I can, I come there. Here you are quiet, nobody annoys you and the nature is magnificent. I know almost all the birds: Rousserolle, Mallard duck, Coot, Bittern ? " He binds around 120 packages a day. For each of them, he gets two francs. A life cycle of 30 years and a perfect insulation Four companies buy the harvest of sagne and pay "tie-men". 10 % of packages will become "doormats" and brooms, 90 % will be on the roofs of herdsmen's huts or on the Dutch, English, Breton and Norman houses. " We need approximately two weeks with two person to cover 200 m2, explains Pascal Bouchité, works foreman of the company Perret et Fils. The Camarguaise method, it is to go up "manons", small bundles of 10 cms diameter sticks, in stair. We begin with the bottom, and we rise up to the summit of the roof, where we flow a little cement, for the waterproofness. For the Breton or Norman cottages, the reed will be put flat, short as a carpet. " Every "manon" is fastened five times to the other ones and the insulation is perfect. " It is a fabulous, light and extremely sturdy material, unchanging with water. It protects from heat as from cold and it has a life cycle of about 30 years. " " Living under a reed roof is very pleasant, tenant of herdsmen's house confirms. It is obviously necessary to ban barbecue and cigarettes around, and it is better that there are not too many trees in the surroundings, so that the roof is able to breath. Something is fabulous, there is life in the roof: birds make their nests there. I can hear them squeal, snort and witter, a true happiness. Regrettably, they damage the roof, it is necessary to maintain it every other year." Mistral also damages reed roofs. " From water of swamps to roofs of houses, reed is a living and fragile substance. Maybe that's why it has so much charm." André Calba confirms. Even if his financial balance is henceforth somewhere else, he did not know how to give up completly sagne. He acquired to an old artisan a " doormats machine" and he sells some square meters of reed mats to private individuals, to protect terraces and swimming pools of the sun. " It is difficult to be resolved to leave sagne and swamp when you spent many years of your life there, he notices, a little bit nostalgic. Sagne was gold. " A vein which runs out and which sees going out one of the oldest occupations of Camargue, sagneurs of swamps. Anne Sophie PRUSAK - + 33 4 96 14 02 91 - aprusak@wanadoo.fr (*) Traditional aperitif in South of France (**) chargé de recherche Géomatique à la station biologique de La Tour du Valat, Arles, in « L'exploitation du roseau et les mesures agri-environnementales dans le delta du Rhône »