Huayhuash - PREVIEW.indd

Transcription

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Climbers Guidebooks from High Col Press
Purchase online at www.highcol.ca
This full-colour guide brings together into a single
collection 1300 of the great rockclimbs of Western
Canada, from Squamish to Lake Louise to the Ghost
River Valley, world-famous crags, popular classics,
alpine crags, and little known jewels in one of the
most beautiful regions of the world. Over 70 climbing areas are described, with over 800 topos and
photos covering sport, trad, long climbs and crags.
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Climbs and Treks in the
Cordillera Huayhuash of
Peru
Free Preview Edition
The Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru is one of the world’s
great mountain ranges and Climbs and Treks in the
Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru is the pre-eminent guide
from Jeremy Frimer to the great peaks, the alpine
climbs, and the magnificent mountain treks. An extensive
prologue describes how to adapt into Peruvian culture,
acclimatization strategies, city street maps, the geology
and history of the region, and approach arrangements.
This free 54 page PDF Preview Edition is a sampler of
what the full book contains, showing the careful page
detailing, with much of the extensive 50 page prologue
included and galleries presenting how the climbs and
topos are detailed. If you would like to purchase the full
216 page guidebook, please visit us at www.highcol.ca.
This Preview Edition of Climbs and Treks in the Cordillera
Huayhuash of Peru is distributed free of charge by High
Col Press. Copyright to the book and all uncredited
photos is held by the author, Jeremy Frimer, and other
photos are copyrighted as identified. limbs and Treks in the
Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru is published by Elaho Press,
an imprint of High Col Press.
§
This Preview Edition PDF file is set up as 2-page
spreads and prints neatly onto letter-size paper.
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Trekkers on the Valley Circuit near Carhuacocha
photo: © Tom Dempsey/photoseek.com
Climbs
and
Treks
in the
Cordillera
Huayhuash
of Peru
Jeremy Frimer
Elaho Press
Squamish
Canada
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Climbs and Treks in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru
© Jeremy Frimer 2005
ISBN 0-9733035-5-7
Elaho Publishing Corporation, Squamish BC.
Printed in Canada by Kromar Printing Ltd, Manitoba.
Uncredited photos © Jeremy Frimer
All other photographs © as credited to photographers.
Design, editing, and production: Kevin McLane, Barry McLane.
Front: Yerupaja
(inset) trekkers on the Valley Circuit
photo: Tom Dempsey, www.photoseek.com
Back: (top) At Carhuacocha Basecamp, looking toward Yerupaja.
photo: Mathias Zehring
(middle) Alun Powell on Fear and Loathing, Jirishanca.
photo: Nick Bullock
(bottom) On the Valley circuit near Carnicero
photo: Tom Dempsey, www.photoseek.com
All Rights Reserved
Other than brief quotations in reviews, no part of this book may be
reproduced in any form, okilometr by electronic, mechanical, or any
other means without written permission from the publisher.
Disclaimer
Mountaineering is a hazardous activity carrying a significant risk of
personal injury or death and should only be undertaken with a full
understanding of all inherent risks. This publication is only a guide
to the climbs, a composite of opinion from many sources, some of
which may not be accurate, and the information contained may not
reflect the circumstances of a particular climb on a given day. Use
of this guide must always be conducted with the required experience
and good judgement necessary for safety.
Elaho™ is a trademark of Elaho Publishing Corporation
The Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru FREE PREVIEW EDITION www.highcol.ca
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
T
his book would not have been possible were it not for critical
information provided by dozens of sources from countries
including Japan, South Africa, the United Kingdom, France, Germany,
Spain, Italy, Slovakia, Slovenia, Netherlands, Argentina, Peru, USA,
and Canada. At times, I have felt that my role was more so that of
editor than author. The contributions of the many people listed below
have been invaluable in trying to provide the reader with the best
information available. This book truly is by the people, for the people.
Alan Formanek
Alun Powell
Andrea Zanetti
Aritza Monasterio
Brad Johnson
Charles Webb
Christian Beckwith
Chris Benway
Didier Jourdain
Fern Webb
Geoff Birtles
Hitoshi Yamaoka
Ignacio Couturier
Inaki Araiz
Jacqui Hudson
James Floyer
Jay Burbee
Joe Simpson
Jim Earl
Julian Gonzalez
Lionel Daudet
Masatoshi Kuriaki
Matej Mejovsek
Mathias Zehring
Michel van der Spek
Nic Sellers
Nick Bullock
Ofir Rimer
Pavle Kozjek
Rab Carrington
Rogier van Rijn
Shinichi Yoshiga
Simon Yates
Stan Horn
Steve Begin
Ted Alexander
Tom Dempsey
Urban Azman
Yanik Bérubé
I would, in particular, like to acknowledge and applaud the
efforts of people like Jim Bartle and Chris Benway in protecting the
pristine nature of the Huayhuash.
The many outstanding photos in the guide are due in no small
part to the enthusiasm of many individuals to contribute to the success
of this endeavour: I wish especially to thank Brad Johnson, and Tom
Dempsey of photoseek.com, for their outstanding contribution, and:
Matt Buckle, Aymeric Clouet, Martin Gamache, Didier Jourdain,
Pavle Kozjek, Lief-Norman Patterson, Richard Steele, Michel van
der Spek, Fern Webb, and Mathias Zehring.
Cordes and Lindsay Griffin. As editors for American Alpine Journal
and High Mountain Sports respectively, Kelly and Lindsay have also
been searching for complete, accurate information on activity in the
Huayhuash. I would like to acknowledge and thank them for their
collaborative efforts. I believe that each of our three publications
have benefited from the cooperation. In an email Kelly captured
the sentiment of Huayhuash research perfectly: “There’s so much
murky stuff with Peru, I swear… Different names for the same peaks,
unknown altitudes everywhere all reported differently, what a goat
rodeo! I feel like I’m herding cats in trying to figure it out.”
I would also like to acknowledge the collaborative efforts of
Martin Gamache. Martin recently published the second edition of his
Cordillera Huayhuash map. It makes an excellent companion to this
book. Few Huayhuash features have historically known by only one
name. Martin and I worked together to take a definitive stance on
giving appropriate names to unnamed features (mostly glaciers) and
choosing the most appropriate name for features with multiple names.
Finally, I would like to thank my publisher, Kevin McLane
(Elaho), for much of the image work seen here. I am grateful for
his skill and effort he brought to this book; and to Barry McLane
for his efforts on developing topos. Thank you Kevin for your faith
in me and this project. Kevin’s work and influence on this final
product is profound but perhaps not transparent. It has been a
tremendous learning experience in the realms of writing style, project
management, and interpersonal cooperation. Kevin has been most
instrumental in guiding me through this growth.
Several individuals have provided instrumental aid to me through
the authoring process. I say with confidence that if it were not for
Alfredo Quintana Figueroa, I never would have begun this project.
In 2002, Alfredo (a Peruvian mountain guide) approached me and
suggested that I write this book. His faith in and encouragement for
me was key in quenching my doubts about my own knowledge base.
Although the information in this book may come across as
definitive, the process of acquiring rare accounts and sorting through
conflicting information has been nebulous to say the least. I would like
to acknowledge two fellow soldiers in this ‘war on obscurity’, Kelly
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NAVIGATING THE GUIDE
NAVIGATING THE GUIDE
Introduction ........................................................................ 10
Huayhuash History............................................................. 11
Geography and Geology of the Huayhuash ............... 12–13
Human Impacts on the Huayhuash ............................. 14–15
Peruvian Culture – What You Should Know................. 16–19
Lima – Urban Survival .................................................. 20–21
Lima – Staying in the Miraflores Area ................................ 22
Lima – Taking the bus to Huaraz ................................. 23–24
Huaraz – Useful Information ........................................ 25–26
About Donkeys, Arrieros and Contracts ...................... 27–29
Staying Healthy and Alive .................................................. 30
Weather, Conditions and Ice .............................................. 31
The Climbing Strategy ................................................. 32–33
Grades and Lengths of Climbs .......................................... 34
Books, Maps and Reference Sources ............................... 35
Acclimatizing ................................................................ 36–37
Acclimatizing in the Cordillera Blanca ......................... 38–43
Map — Lima to Huaraz ..................................................... 44
Map — Huaraz Street Map ............................................... 45
Map — Northwest Basecamps ......................................... 46
Map — Eastern Basecamps ............................................. 47
Map — Southwest Bascamps .......................................... 48
Map — Puscanturpa group .............................................. 49
Using Spanish in the Huayhuash ...................................... 50
Trekking ............................................................................ 70
The Backwards ‘C’ ............................................................. 72
The Valley Circuit ............................................................... 73
The Alpine Circuit ............................................................ 82
Northwest Basecamps .................................................... 94
Approaches .................................................................. 94–97
Ninashanca ........................................................................ 98
Cerro Mexico ...................................................................... 98
Rondoy .............................................................................. 98
Mituraju ............................................................................ 100
Jirishanca ......................................................................... 100
TAM Sur103
Yerupajá Chico ................................................................. 103
El Toro ............................................................................ 103
Yerupajá ........................................................................... 104
Seria Norte ...................................................................... 106
Rasac .................................................................... 107–108
Tsacra Chico .................................................................... 109
Tsacra Grande .................................................................. 110
Huacrish ........................................................................... 110
Ancocancha ..................................................................... 111
Diablo Mudo ..................................................................... 111
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Eastern Basecamps ...................................................... 124
Approaches .............................................................. 126–129
Ninashanca ...................................................................... 132
Jirishanca ......................................................................... 133
Jirishanca Chico .............................................................. 137
Yerupajá Chico ................................................................. 138
Yerupajá ........................................................................... 140
Siulá Grande .................................................................... 143
Sarapo ............................................................................ 146
Carnicero.......................................................................... 147
Jurau ............................................................................ 147
Huaraca 147
Quesillo ............................................................................ 148
Trapecio............................................................................ 148
Southwest Basecamps ................................................. 164
Approaches .............................................................. 164–170
Tsacra Grande .................................................................. 172
Tsacra Chico Oeste .......................................................... 172
Tsacra Chico .................................................................... 173
Rasac ............................................................................ 173
Seria Norte ....................................................................... 175
Cerro Gran Vista .............................................................. 176
Rosario Norte ................................................................... 177
Yerupajá ........................................................................... 177
Siulá Grande .................................................................... 178
Sarapo 6127m................................................................ 180
Jurauraju 5335m ............................................................ 181
Carnicero 5960m ........................................................... 182
Jurau 5674m .................................................................. 182
Trapecio 5653m ............................................................. 183
The Puscanturpa Group ............................................... 198
Approaches .............................................................. 198–202
Sueroraju .......................................................................... 203
Puscanturpa Central ........................................................ 203
Puscanturpa Este ............................................................. 203
Guardian Spires ............................................................... 204
Puscanturpa Norte ........................................................... 204
Puscanturpa Sur .............................................................. 206
Cuyocraju Central ............................................................ 207
Pumarinri .......................................................................... 208
About the Author .............................................................. 214
Index of Peak Heights ...................................................... 215
About Elaho Press ........................................................... 216
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INTRODUCTION
HUAYHUASH HISTORY
T
he Cordillera Huayhuash is home to some of the most
spectacular mountain settings in all of South America, and
contains some of the most spectacular and difficult Alpine climbing
in all the Andes. Encircling the range are two independent treks,
both of which are world class.
The Huayhuash (“why-wash”) offers a ‘Greater Ranges’
experience but without the world-class expenses, time, and
logistical nightmares of the Himalayas. One of the most appealing
characteristics of the climbing 1s the outstanding alpine conditions.
Excellent weather, mild temperatures, and an abundance of good ice
make the Huayhuash a standout.
The Huayhuash is a remote mountain range at 10° south latitude
in central Perú. It is a smaller, more compact mountain range than its
northerly neighbour, the Cordillera Blanca. Six Huayhuash peaks are
over 6000m in height and ~30 more over 5200m. Beautiful ice and
rock pyramids tower above lush, pastoral valleys inhabited by just a
handful of rural farmers and herders. The dry season offers lengthy
periods of stable weather and mild temperatures (-5°C in the Alpine)
making the Huayhuash an ideal place in which to bring technical
climbing to altitude. In comparison to the Blanca, The Huayhuash
is quieter, more remote, and generally more spectacular. Since the
mid-1990s, Perú has been relatively stable politically and a safe place
for Westerners to travel.
Viewed from the west, Huayhuash peaks string together a large
‘T’. All the big peaks are found along the horizontal (north-south)
bar of the ‘T’, while the stem (east-west) contains generally more
moderate objectives.
There are many more Alpine routes in the Huayhuash than
are mentioned in this book. What is included here is a collection
of the best. Every route, given that a climber is comfortable with
the technical challenge and commitment that the route demands, is
recommended.
The Himalayas are becoming more expensive and dangerous
while access continues to improve in the Huayhuash. More climbers
and trekkers than ever before are choosing Perú. Climbing in the
range has entered another golden era with first ascents of quality
routes of all difficulty being accomplished every year.
Jeremy Frimer
T
he Huayhuash was first surveyed in 1927 by Americans, but not
thoroughly travelled by Westerners until 1936 when an expedition
of the German Alpine Club made the first ascents of Siulá and Rasac.
They then published the first map of the Huayhuash. World War II
put all mountaineering activity on hold. Americans from Harvard
University pulled off the first ascent of Yerupajá in 1950. Two Austrian
Alpine Club expeditions (1954 and 1957) succeeded in first ascents
of most of the remaining peaks. Focus began to shift to unclimbed
faces. After the Japanese succeeded on the southeast face of Jirishanca
(1973) and Czechs on the west face of Rondoy (1982), just one major
face remained unclimbed: the west face of Siulá Grande. In 1985,
Joe Simpson and Simon Yates made its first ascent; then ensued a
disastrous epic on the descent. Their adventure was eloquently retold
in Simpson’s now-famous book Touching the Void.
The following few years saw a ruthless guerilla insurgence gain
momentum, the Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path; SL). Its stated goal
was to destroy existing Peruvian institutions and replace them with
a peasant revolutionary regime. The SL also wanted to rid Perú of
foreign influences. The late 1980s erupted into a wave of violence
including bombings and assassinations. Tourists were not immune.
As the Huayhuash was one of the strongholds of the SL, it was only
a matter of time before an incident involving trekkers took place. In
1988, a group of Canadians were caught in a shoot-out between the
SL and police. In the following years, a trekker was shot and killed
by an SL gunman. The Peruvian government responded by closing
the Huayhuash to foreigners for several years.
Alberto Fujimori was elected president in 1990 and in 1992,
he succeeded in capturing the SL leader, Abimael Guzmán. Further
arrests in 1995 seemed to silence the group. Tourists began returning
in the mid-1990s; no further incidents involving the SL and tourists
have occurred. Fujimori amended the Peruvian constitution in 2000
to allow himself to run for a third term. The election procedure did
not measure up to international democratic standards and all other
candidates dropped out in protest. Fujimori ordered the election to
continue and ‘won’ a landslide victory. Shortly after, he was caught
in a corruption scandal, resigned and fled to Japan. In his absence,
Alejandro Toledo, a Peruvian schooled in Stanford University
(USA), was elected president. Since he took office in 2001, Perú has
experienced low inflation, good economic growth, but a thriving black
market—all at the expense of heavy regulation, worker dislocation, and
social unrest. Peaceful political demonstrations are frequent nowadays.
May 2005
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GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF THE HUAYHUASH
By James Floyer
T
he Cordillera Huayhuash is a compact but spectacular mountain
range in central Perú. It is a sub-region of the Cordillera
Occidental, or Western Range of the Andes. It contains six summits
in excess of 6000m, the highest of which is Yerupajá (6617m), which
is the second highest mountain in Perú and the highest point within
the Amazon basin.
The geography of the Huayhuash is characterised by sharp
summits that overlook broad, alpine valleys. The area is presently
glaciated on terrain above about 5000m; most of this glacial terrain is
joined in a central T-shaped band linking the summits of the highest
mountains within the range. In the past, glacier ice extended to a
much lower elevation and was responsible for shaping the broad
valleys of the area. Many of these valleys contain lakes that were
dammed by glacial sediments and filled by the meltwater of the
retreating glaciers. Glacial retreat continues in this region today,
enhanced by human-induced global warming.
The Andes began forming about 90 million years ago when
the Nazca oceanic plate started to slide under the South American
continental plate. This subduction resulted in the entire western
margin of South America being folded into a near-continuous
mountain chain. The rate of subduction accelerated about 25 million
years ago giving a rate of uplift in the order of 0.2-0.3 mm/year. The
Andes is a young mountain chain and uplift is still occurring today,
although not evenly and at a rate which is imperceptible to humans.
Much of the Huayhuash is comprised of limestone, interbedded
with sandstone and shale. These sediments were originally laid down
on the ocean floor and have been pushed up and folded due to
the convergence of the two plates. The folding of the sediments is
frequently obvious and spectacular. The limestone has a coarse, sharp
texture and is light to dark grey in colour, sometimes with a slight
bluish tint. Although occasionally brittle, it offers excellent friction for
climbing. It is usually massive, interspersed with occasional irregularshaped cracks giving good climbing on the faces as well as in the
cracks themselves. Marine fossils (bivalves and ammonites) may be
found within some of the limestone beds.
GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF THE HUAYHUASH
hydrothermal alteration, producing yellow (sulphate minerals) and
red (iron oxide) banding within the rocks. This alteration can make
the rock fragile and slippery and as such, undesirable for climbing.
Throughout the Puscanturpa group and on parts of Trapecio and
Quesillo there is a spectacular formation of vertical hexagonal columns
comprised of lithic tuff. This material would have formed during a
volcanic event that entrained small fragments of the surrounding
limestone into the magma whilst rising rapidly up a vertical fault in
the mountain. Most of the volcanic material was not ejected; instead
it was trapped in the vertical fault as a dyke. There it cooled rapidly,
contracting and creating the characteristic columnar jointing often
associated with basaltic-type rocks. The lithic tuff has thin cracks in
vertically oriented dihedrals, offering steep, hard climbing. Although
apparently sound, due to the presence of jointing and infrequency of
climbers in the region, expect to encounter loose blocks.
----------
Heinrich Klier on Ninashanca:
“The magnificent pink of the evening began to illuminate mountains and corniced ridges all around; the sun, like a red orange,
shone on endless mountain chains to the west and violet jadecoloured night crept up from the Amazon lowlands. Never had I
been so affected by the beautiful and illimitable Sierra as on this
lonely evening walk along the corniced ridge of Ninashanca, the
backbone of the continent.”
Volcanic activity has also influenced the geology of the
Huayhuash. There is possible evidence for a cinder cone at Pumarinri
near Cuyoc Pass and hot springs are found nearby and in other parts
of the range (including in Queropalca). These areas are associated with
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HUMAN IMPACTS ON THE HUAYHUASH
T
he Huayhuash is a unique mountain paradise, and one of the
planet’s natural treasures. Its beauty, quiet, and pure landscapes,
however, are under threat. Three issues will have major impacts on
the future of this mountain range. The outcome of each has yet to
be determined; through proactive action, trekkers and climbers can
make a positive impact.
The amount of garbage abandoned on the trails in the
Huayhuash has become an issue of concern. If the international
trekking and climbing community in the Huayhuash are able to
solve this problem internally, perhaps we can avoid a fate similar to
that of Machu Picchu. There, the Perú National Institute of Natural
Resources has taken a heavy-handed approach to the garbage issue
by requiring visitors to hire a guide (~$60 per day), limiting group
sizes, and charging a $50 entrance fee (per person). The guide
requirement especially infringes upon the opportunity for ‘freedom of
the hills’. If garbage is still an issue if/when the Huayhuash becomes
a park, administrators may take a heavy-handed stance. However, if
garbage is no longer an issue, perhaps they will spend more of their
time on trail and toilet construction, signage, and lobbying against
the encroaching mine rather than on policing trekkers and climbers.
Trekking groups are the dominant source of garbage on
Huayhuash trails. Although trekkers themselves are often conscientious
of the issue, they fail to take the proactive role that is necessary to
ameliorate the problem. Arrieros (donkey drivers) are often left to
break camp and prepare the donkeys for the day’s trek while trekkers
scurry ahead. This offers the window of opportunity for arrieros to
dump garbage. Coming from a life of economic struggles, arrieros
understandably focus on matters such as feeding a family rather than
on maintaining clean trails. Trekkers and climbers have a unique
opportunity to take a proactive role by making it clear to the arriero
that he is being paid to bring all garbage along and not dump it.
Create incentive for good behavior. Use the arriero contract
found on pages 28-29, including item 5 that guarantees the final 10%
of the arriero’s wage only when the arriero presents the garbage at
the end of the trip. Be aware that arrieros may dump garbage along
the way then fill up their bags with whatever is available (e.g. cow
dung) on the final days of the trek. Check the bags! Offer an economic
reward for picking up garbage that was already there. The aim is for
arrieros to learn that trekkers value pristine wilderness and recognize
their own incentive in maintaining it.
HUMAN IMPACTS ON THE HUAYHUASH
the western flanks of Rondoy. The impact of this project on both
the environment and local inhabitants of the area has been sharply
criticized. In 1995-96, Mitsui negotiated with the locals into allowing
mining ‘exploration’ to continue. That was likely the last chance to
completely halt the project. Since then, environmental groups have
tried to keep Mitsui’s presence in check. In June 1999, an aquifer was
accidentally perforated causing the heavy siltation of the Llamac River
above the villages of Pocpa and Llamac. In the resulting confrontation
between villagers and police who were guarding the mine, three
villagers were wounded when the police opened fire on protestors.
However, on December 24, 2002, the Huayhuash officially became a
Reserved Zone, which explicitly recognized the rights and traditional
land use by the eight communities of the Huayhuash. Hopefully, it
will one day gain the higher designation of a “Protected Landscape”.
See Friends of the Huayhuash at www.huayhuash.org
A third major issue presently threatening the Huayhuash is solid
human waste and toilet paper. Many groups feel that it is unrealistic
that they carry a bucket through the circuit for this purpose. The
result is that boulders surrounding camps become smelly, unsanitary
places. The cleanliness of the drinking water is under threat. As a
short-term solution, bring a steel shovel and dig small pit toilets. See
below for information on how to build a pit toilet. The long-term
solution is to built pit or composting toilets. Trekkers and climbers
can contribute to this cause by donating or volunteering with the
organization. For more information, see the Friends of the Huayhuash
website: www.huayhuash.org
How to Build a Pit Toilet, by Brad Johnson: Find a location away
from any marshy areas, a minimum of 30m from the any streams or
lakes, and away from any frequently used camping locations. Dig a
rectangular hole ~50cm long by ~25cm wide by ~50cm deep. When
cutting the grassy cap be careful to keep it intact and put it aside as it
will be used later. Pile all the removed soil in a mound off to the side.
To deactivate the toilet, scrape half of the soil (no big rocks)
back in the hole then pour in a little water to aid settling. Push the
remaining soil into the hole, give it a few stomps for compaction, then
drench it with water. Re-place the grass cap and stomp it into place.
Finally pour a full bucket of water over the cap to aid recovery. Do
what it takes to make the area look natural again.
A second major issue harming the Huayhuash is mining. Japaneseowned Mitsui Mining & Smelting operates above Pallca, just below
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PERUVIAN CULTURE — WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW
Visas: Travellers from most countries (including Canada, United
States, Mexico, EU countries, Japan, Korea, and New Zealand) do not
need Visas for Perú. Immigration officials will issue a Tourist Card
when you enter the country (page 20). Don’t lose this piece of paper
or they will charge $2 per day of your visit.
Currency: The monetary unit of Perú is the Nuevo Sol (S/.).
The Sol is subdivided into 100 Centimos. Throughout the period of
2000 to 2004, the value of the Sol was more or less unchanging with
respect to the US Dollar. $1 = S/3.50
The US Dollar is so common the word ‘dollar’ in Perú is taken
to mean ‘US Dollar’. Exchange rates between soles and dollars are
always good whereas changing from any other currency to soles or
vice versa will be accompanied by a large commission. It’s a good
idea to have at least $100 cash on hand when arriving by air. There
are two ways of bringing money: traveller’s cheques and ATM
card. Traveller’s cheques can be difficult to cash, whereas ATMs are
everywhere in Lima and Huaraz. Withdrawing from ATMs is simple
and safe; there are machines that accept both Plus- and Cirrus- type
cards (bank cards and VISA/ Mastercard) and most machines offer
the option of English dialogue. Important:—your PIN for your account
must be 4 digits, not less, not more.
Budget: Once in Perú, most people spend between $20 and $30
per day (throughout this guide, ‘$’ is taken to mean U.S. Dollar). The
thriftiest traveller gets by on as little as $12 a day. For a 30-day trip
to Perú, budget between US$1100 and US$1600 (including airfare)
depending on airfare and spending habits.
Permits: Currently, the Huayhuash is a ‘national reserve’ but
not a park. Visits to the range are completely unregulated. There are
no permits, no rangers, and no registration process. The Cordillera
Blanca lies within Huascaran National Park. Permits (US$25 for 30
days) are issued in a few valleys (Llanganuco [Chopicalqui, Pisco],
Cashapampa [Alpamayo], and Musho [Huascaran].) Bring your
passport.
“The quality, not the longevity, of one’s life is what is important.”
Martin Luther King
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Colectivos (Collective Taxi): When a bus does not cover
the desired route and a taxi is too expensive, travel by colectivo.
The concept is somewhat novel. Colectivos are combi or passenger
vans, with seating ergonomically designed for people of 150cm (5’0”)
height. This is perfect for Peruvians but leaves Westerners somewhat
cramped. Colectivos run just like buses with the following exceptions.
The advantage of colectivos is that they run where buses don’t
and are cheap. Going from Huaraz to the trailhead of Alpamayo
(Cordillera Blanca), for example, involves a 1½h colectivo to Caraz
(S/3.5) followed by a 2h off-road colectivo up into the hills to
Cashapampa (S/5). So, the 3½h of colectivo travel to the trailhead of
“the most beautiful mountain in the world” costs roughly $2.50. They
have two operators: a driver as well as an assistant who loads gear
onto the roof, leans out the window to solicit pedestrians, encourages
people to cram in when the colectivo is already full, and collects fares
(pasajes). Colectivos don’t have schedules—they leave when they are
full or the driver loses patience for waiting. They will stop anywhere
along the way to drop off (holler “baja”) or pick up passengers. They
don’t limit the number of passengers. Having people in the aisles
and hanging out the windows is kosher. Seeing twenty-five people
in a colectivo is not uncommon. When a colectivo finishes its route,
passengers can negotiate with the driver and his assistant to continue
on as a taxi. Prices for colectivos are fixed (by the government). If
a colectivo has a roof rack, there is no extra charge for packs but if
packs are brought inside, expect to pay extra.
Coca: Coca is a plant with oval milky green leaves that grows
like a weed in countries like Perú, Bolivia, and Ecuador. Peruvians
use it for many purposes: medicinal, spiritual, in tea (Maté de Coca),
or as a mild stimulant (like caffeine). It tastes like lawn clippings
but may aid in acclimatization. When refined it becomes cocaine.
There is no addictive aspect to the leaves, no matter how many are
consumed. So, while in Perú, feel free to indulge on lawn clippings.
Beware: most countries see coca leaves as serious contraband.
Local Attitude: Things almost never go as planned on an
expedition. Coming from a new culture, Peruvian behavior often
offends Westerners at first. Understand that within their culture,
Peruvians are acting quite normally and it is the Westerner that is
acting out of line. Focus on being flexible and open-minded to new
ways of approaching life. Traveling in a foreign country, you are
a representative of your country and climbers in general. Govern
yourself accordingly
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20
21
Toilets: Since sanitary practices in Perú tend to leave something
to be desired, Westerners inevitable become sick during travels. The
occasional incidence of waddling down streets in desperate search
for a bathroom is one of the torments of Latin American travel. To
add to the excitement, bathrooms are not as abundant as in Western
countries. Some charge S/0.50 per use; most restaurants have free
bathrooms for customers. However, it would seem that few bathrooms
in Perú have toilet paper. Always carry a few sheets. The Peruvian
sewer system was not designed to carry toilet paper. Beside every
toilet is a bin for used toilet paper.
Solicitation & Begging: There is a huge surplus of labour in
Perú. Even people with technical skills scramble to make a living by
any means, so there are many Peruvians in the street trying to sell
merchandise. They see Westerners as a potential sale so expect to be
solicited regularly. If not interested in their product, politely ignore
them. Whether or not to give money to beggars is a complex issue.
On one hand, fostering a tradition of dependence on handouts may
hinder progress in building a sustainable economy in Perú. On the
other, leaving decrepit elderly people starving on the street lacks
compassion.
Siesta: Outside of Lima, business does not operate on a fixed
schedule. Very generally, shops in Huaraz open at 09:30 then close
at 13:00. Peruvians then go home for a big meal with the family; a
snooze (siesta) follows. Shops re-open at 16:00 then close some time
between 18:00 and 21:00. The concept of Siesta can be somewhat
irritating to Westerners at first. But given the chance, it can become
a cherished mid-day ritual for travellers.
Children begging, however, is a less debatable issue. Parents often
pull their kids from school and march them around town begging.
Giving to them undermines the future of Perú. Give neither money
nor candy (caramelo) nor presents (regalo) to child beggars.
Noise: In Perú, there is no such violation as “Disturbing the
Peace”. Be prepared for a lot of noise. Drivers, instead of slowing
down while approaching an intersection, simply honk or sound the
car alarm. Taxi drivers honk at Westerners so as to announce that
they are a taxi and open for business. Dogs bark endlessly. Music
may be blaring at all hours of the night. And so on. Personally, I find
this to be the hardest thing to get used to.
Business Ethic: For most Peruvians, getting work done fast is
not a high priority. The ‘mañana’ attitude (mañana means ‘tomorrow’)
is part of the culture. In other words, when asking when they will get
around to doing something, you might get the answer “mañana...”
which can mean never. The best way of dealing with it is to accept
it as a different way of going about things. Becoming frustrated by
it seems to only make matter worse. The act of waiting is part of an
expedition. Allow plenty of time for things that should be routine.
Honesty: In most Western countries, the proper thing when
asked a question that one does not know the answer to is to say “I
don’t know”. This concept is quite different in Perú. Especially in
urban areas like Lima it would seem that lying is not dis-honourable.
It is not having an answer that is shameful. Lying for the sake of
making money is quite common as well. This can be frustrating
and misleading for Westerners. In contrast, rural Peruvians (e.g.
Huayhuash farmers and herders) are generally honest and reliable.
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Sales Tax and Tipping: In Perú, all sales tax is built into the
price. Tipping in Perú is only done in high-end establishments When
spending S/15 or more on a meal, tip 5–10%. Note: in restaurants,
waiters will not bring the bill until asked for it “La cuenta por favor”.
If an arriero provides good service, tipping is customary.
Bargaining: Most things can be bargained for in Perú. Prices
that are fixed include bus fare, restaurants, colectivos, park entrance
fee, and departure tax. Bargaining for taxi fare, souvenirs, groceries,
and hostels is common.
Dogs: In Perú, dogs are seen as either pests or property
guardians. In towns like Huaraz, they roam the streets, dirty
and beaten, in search of food scraps. Virtually none of them are
vaccinated, spayed, or neutered. Hence, even if you feel sorry for
them, do not approach them or allow them to approach you. Assume
that they have rabies. In towns and more popular valleys, dogs are
generally not aggressive, as they have been hit by many rocks for
aggression in the past. In more remote valleys, however, dogs are
extremely aggressive. They will bark and charge like they mean
business. They are, fortunately for the Westerner, mortally afraid of
one thing: rocks. When an aggressive dog approaches, pick up a stone
(on second thought, pick up three), and motion as if you are ready
to throw it. If they continue their charge... well… in the words of an
Irish friend of mine, “Skull the Motherfucker!” If you miss, assess the
effect of your first shot. Aim your actions at scaring the dog away,
not necessarily killing it.
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LIMA -- URBAN SURVIVAL
LIMA -- URBAN SURVIVAL
L
23
ima, located at 12° south latitude on the west coast of Perú, is a
city of 8 million people, at least 2 million of whom are living in
a shantytown. In the Peruvian dry season, it is covered in a low fog,
making every day dull and gray. Most travellers take a real disliking
to Lima; it is an unfortunate reality involved in getting to the beautiful
parts of Perú. Unlike most of Perú, there is often a ‘gringo tax’ in
Lima. In other words, most everyone is trying to scam you. There
is some wonderful colonial architecture in downtown (centro) Lima,
if one is so brave to explore it. Meanwhile, there is a clean and safe
(read ‘rich’) area of town called Miraflores, west of downtown. Prices
there are higher but I have always found the peace of mind well
worth a couple of extra dollars.
take this form and waive the tourist through. It is unlikely that they
will check your bags. You are still in an area where local Peruvians
(i.e. taxi drivers) are not permitted so it’s a good idea to get a bit of
Peruvian currency before subjecting yourself to the masses. There is
a currency exchange booth (okay rates) after going through customs.
Change $50 (making roughly S/170) per person, to have plenty of
Soles for the journey to Huaraz. There, better rates are available.
Try to get small bills (billetes chicos por favor) because change is hard
to come by in Perú. Banks and changers prefer to give S/100 notes,
which are hard to spend. There is a fair amount of counterfeit money
in Perú but all the banks and money changers are diligent about
checking the money they receive.
Air Travel to Lima: Several airlines fly to Lima. From the US,
Continental has daily direct flights from Houston to Lima. Lan Chile
flies from Los Angeles to Lima direct (9h). Airfare from Vancouver,
Canada to Lima return cost $700 in 2003. If choosing to fly home
early, the only place in Huaraz worth trying to change an airline ticket
is Condor Tours. If unsuccessful there (e.g. all flights are full), try going
to Lima and to fly standby. In July 2003, I was told that every one
of the next 10 flights with my airline (Lan Chile) was overbooked
by at least 30 people. Not dissuaded, I went to the airport 3h before
the flight. Surprisingly, they checked me in, assigning me a seat on
the spot! With most airlines, they charge between $50 and $100 to
change tickets.
When leaving Perú, the airport charges $28 as a departure fee.
Lima Airport ( Jorge Chavez International): You will get off
the plane and be directed in into a room where you will line up to
go through immigration (the airline will have given you two forms to
fill out on the plane). Most of the immigration officers speak broken
English. They will stamp your passport then write a number on the
stamp. This is the number of days that you are allowed to stay in
Perú. The number they write seems to be somewhat arbitrary. Tourists
are usually allowed 90 days but immigration officers tend to write
whatever number comes to mind. As you give them your passport,
tell them that you need 90 days. (Por favor noventa días). Once they
write something, it’s hard to get them to change it. If you overstay
your allowable visit, they will charge several dollars per day upon
departure.
Lima is an urban adventure. This could take as little as four
hours or as much as a day. Be extremely protective of all your stuff.
Mugging is less common outside of the worst areas. Thieves attack
by snatching bags of unsuspecting tourists. They are most active
after dark. Always watch your bags! And be ready to have people
try to scam you. Knowing the going rate and being firm is the only
defence. If a policeman gets involved, almost invariably, the tourist
will be given the benefit of the doubt so bluffing them with threats
of summoning a police officer usually works well. “Debemos preguntar
a la policia” (We should ask the police).
A general plan for how to deal with Lima. Even though
you are likely bagged from flying halfway across the world, getting
out of Lima quickly is good for mental health. Huaraz has an airport
but currently, livestock are grazing it (there are no flights). There is
effectively only one way to reach Huaraz: by bus (8h). I recommend
going straight from the airport, via taxi, to a hostel/hotel in Miraflores
(the business district and also the safest and cleanest area of Lima).
There are many good (expensive) hotels and hostels in Miraflores.
The recommended four are all safe and clean, with the luxury level
of each hostel proportional to the price. Drop your bags in your
room at the hostel then get a bus ticket to Huaraz (try the local bus
or colectivos for an adventure). Pass time by wandering Lima or
resting at the hostel until maybe 1½h before the bus departs. Then
get a taxi to the bus station with your bags.
Next, collect your luggage. You are still dealing with your airline
so the chance that it will be there is as good as it would be back home.
Next comes customs. This part is easy. You will have a form that
you filled out on the plane. For people foreign to Perú, they usually
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LIMA -- STAYING IN THE MIRAFLORES AREA
The Taxi Dance: The airport is a good half-hour by car north
of Lima. There are buses that run into the city but, whilst laden by
luggage, hiring a taxi to the hostel is recommended. Consider it
insurance. Until 2003, getting a taxi at the airport for a decent price
required endless argument and acting. Since then, the airport has
implemented regulations on taxi drivers and fares. The maximum that
taxi drivers are permitted to charge for a trip to Miraflores is S/30.
The going rate out on the street is S/15 so bargaining is in order.
The way I usually handle this is by simply stating “Veinte soles: este
es mi precio.” (Twenty Soles: that’s my price) and invariably, one of
the drivers takes it. At night, fares are higher so I offer S/25. Once
en route, tell the driver where you want to go. All four Miraflores
hostels are near one another. Tell the driver “entre las cuadras diez y once
de la Avenida Larco en Miraflores” (between blocks 10 and 11 of Larco
Avenue in Miraflores). Once you get near, show him using a map.
In Miraflores: Walking the streets of Miraflores is safe. There
is much police presence, which exists to protect tourists and rich
Peruvians. There are multinational restaurants (McDonalds, Burger
King, etc), numerous local diners, and several supermarkets (e.g.
Santa Isabel); banks with ATMs, internet cafes, and movie theatres.
Miraflores Hostels: All hostels listed have 24-hour attention.
“Hay habitaciones disponibles?” (Are there rooms available) let’s them
know that you want a room. “Sí” (Yes). Unload your bags from the
taxi and pay the driver. Tipping is not customary in Perú but if my
driver takes me where I want to go without trying to change the
price, I tip to reward professionalism. They will understand what’s
going on if you say “Tres soles extra” (Three soles extra), for example.
The safe way of travelling to downtown is by taxi, which costs
less than S/10. If looking for an adventure, take a colectivo (page
17). Note: colectivo routes and fares change regularly. It is easy to
become lost for hours when using Lima colectivos.
To find a colectivo to downtown, walk to the Oval (Ovalo Cine
Pacifio) and find the beginning of Arequipa Avenue, heading east.
Catch a colectivo marked “Tdo. Arequipa”, wave it down, and let the
adventure begin. If meeting someone at the airport, take a taxi for
S/20 to S/25. In 2003, the colectivos marked “Marina-Faucett” left
from the corner of Larco and Benavides, bound for the airport. The
colectivos marked “Tdo. Marina” did not reach the airport.
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LIMA -- TAKING THE BUS TO HUARAZ
25
Buying bus tickets is an adventure in itself. Lima has no
central bus station. Each company (there are many) has its own
offices and bus stations. To add to the already confusing situation,
each company may have several offices at which they sell tickets.
But the bus does not necessarily visit all these offices on its way out
of town. To boot, they may fail to mention this unless asked. When
buying a ticket, ask “El bus sale de aqui?” (The bus leaves from here?).
Hopefully, they say “Si” and point to a bus or a place where a bus
could park. Cial and Movil Tours are situated in a bad neighbourhood
on the edge of downtown, near Estadio Nacional (National Stadium).
Listed below are three recommended bus companies for the
Lima–Huaraz route, with departure times and fare information.
Recommended Bus Companies for Lima—Huaraz
Company
Cial
Departure Times and Fares
21:30
S/35 (cama)
Cruz de Sur 10:00
22:00
S/41 (semi-cama) S/41 (semi-cama)
Movil Tours 08:00
13:00
21:00
S/23.50 (normal) S/41 (cama) S/30 (normal)
23:00
S/47 (cama)
Leave your luggage at the hostel, make a trip to the bus office
several hours before the bus departs to buy a ticket. Tell a taxi driver
the name of the bus company and point it out to him on a map. To
get there by colectivo from Miraflores, walk to Avenida Arequipa, which
leaves Ovalo Pacifico northbound, and hop into any colectivo that,
among other things, is marked “Tdo Arequipa” on its front. Get off by
saying “baja” when you arrive at the cross street of 28 de Julio. The
colectivo ride will likely cost S/1. Walk a few blocks to your right
(east) to reach the expressway and the bus stations. For Cruz del Sur,
there are two bus stations, the easier to reach (and cleaner) is the
one in San Isidro (neighbourhood) on Javier Prado (street). Get there
by taking the same colectivo out of Miraflores but getting off earlier
at Javier Prado (Arequipa crosses Javier Prado by way of an underpass).
Catch another colectivo (just take a guess as to which one) travelling
eastwards and watch for Cruz del Sur bus station on your left (north)
after 5 minutes.
Cama buses are essentially the equivalent of travelling first class in
an airliner. Movies, recliner chairs with plenty of leg room, and even
bingo matches make Cama buses good value for the extra money.
An hour and a half prior to the bus departure, take a taxi with your
luggage from the hostel to the bus station.
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LIMA -- TAKING THE BUS TO HUARAZ
A
t the bus station, it is unlikely there will be an announcement
that the bus has arrived or will be departing. For some companies,
the bus may be out on the street. Just be obnoxious and keep asking
staff “Bus a Huaraz?” (Bus is pronounced “boos”) until they finally
point at a bus that has arrived. Most buses have a baggage restriction
of 20kg with a surcharge of S/0.50 per extra kilogram.
Buses in Perú are good machines in decent condition; comfortable
and reliable. Few Peruvians own vehicles so the bus system is in high
demand and has become a competitive business. After finding your
seat on the bus, the biggest urban stress of trip has come to a close.
Sit back and relax.
The entire 8h bus ride to Huaraz is on good, paved highway.
The bus travels for quite some time through the endless slums of
Lima before travelling north along the desert coast. Most daytime
buses stop about halfway to Huaraz for a meal break. It is probably
wise to avoid any local cuisine there. After a few hours, the bus turns
right (east) and makes a gradual 4000m(!) ascent into the Cordilleras,
passing through a range of ecosystems. The altitude at the 4000m
pass is noticeable but being unacclimatized is not a problem since the
bus makes an immediate descent to Huaraz at 3000m. While passing
a large, shallow lake on the right, look back and to your right. Off
in the distance are the promised lands of the Cordillera Huayhuash.
The bus travels north along a valley floor as the southern peaks of
the Cordillera Blanca emerge to the east.
Buses and Colectivos From Huaraz into the Climbing Areas
Destination
Company
Departures from Huaraz
Llupa (Churup Lake) (colectivo) Many, 07:30 to 18:00 S/3
Yungay/ Caraz
(colectivo) Many,
S/3.50
Chiquian
El Rapido 06:00, 13:00pm
S/10
Huallanca
El Rapido 06:00, 12:30pm
S/14
La Union
El Rapido 12:30
S/16
“Every form of addiction is bad, no matter whether the narcotic
be alcohol or morphine or idealism.”
Carl Jung
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HUARAZ -- USEFUL INOFRMATION
27
H
uaraz is a mountain town of population 80,000: the Chamonix
of South America. Over a half dozen 6000m peaks are visible,
including Huascarán, the highest mountain in Perú. The pace of
Huaraz is mellow by Peruvian standards and the air is clean and thin.
A taxi to anywhere in Huaraz should cost S/2.00–2.50.
Accommodation: Here are recommended places to stay along
with email addresses to reserve. During the dry season, these hostels
can be quite full, especially near the 28th of July holiday.
Select Huaraz Hotels and Hostels
Establishment
Dorm Single Double Contact
Hostal Quintana
$4.50
$12 Hostal_quintana@yahoo.es
Albergue Churup
$4.00
$15 Churup@hotmail.com
Grand Huaraz Hotel S.A.
$20
$35 Grandhotel@terra.com.pe
The Quintana is near all the action, the Albergue is the author’s choice, and the
Grand Huaraz is, well, posh.
Meeting Other Climbers: If looking for a climbing/trekking
partner, the best bet is to put up a notice at the Casa de Guias notice
board. Expect mixed results: everything from “I toprope 5.12 and
WI6” to “I once walked across the street” to those who understate
themselves substantially. I found an excellent partner from New
Zealand through the notice board but only though being patient
and selective.
Communication: Internet cafes are everywhere in Lima and
Huaraz and cost S/2 per hour. There are phone stores (sort of like an
internet cafe but with telephones). Rates are high. Calling cards are
available. Using MSN Messenger to converse is a cheap and available
option. The Peruvian postal system, Serpost, is slow (expect 10-14 days
for a letter to reach its destination) but fairly reliable.
Nightlife: Try El Tambo bar: dancing, drinking, and a taste of
Peruvian machismo.
Select Huaraz Restaurants
Limón, Leña, y Carbon Peruvian
S/10-20
Café Andina
American
S/5-15
The Little Donkey Mex/American S/10-15
Creperie Patrick
French
S/5-20
The Churro Lady
Peruvian 5-10pm S/0.70
Rinconcito Minero Variety
S/5-25
Bistro de Los Andes
Swiss-French
Siam de Los Andes Thai
S/30-40
Seafood, etc.
Good coffee and breakfast.
Creative burritos.
Good breakfast patio.
yellow stand on NW corner.
great food, author’s choice.
S/10-30 Excellent French food.
Expensive curries and stir fries.
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IN HUARAZ -- USEFUL INFORMATION
Cragging Around Huaraz: The two best cragging spots near
Huaraz are Huanchac and Monterrey. Each are worth at most a day
of entertainment. Huanchac offers some decent bouldering on roughly
10 boulders of good granite, just outside of Huaraz. A taxi there
should cost S/5. Tell the driver you want to go “Cerca posta medica de
Huanchac”. It’s possible to walk back (downhill) to Huaraz in roughly
½h. The other area is a collection of three small cliffs of volcanic tuff.
There are 20m climbs from French grade 5 to 7c, a few are trad but
most are sport or unprotected (toprope or solo). Tell the taxi driver
to take you to “Baños Termales de Monterrey”; about S/5. To return,
it is a ¼h to the Huaraz–Caraz highway, from which a colectivo can
easily be caught.
Trip Preparation: Food: In Huaraz, food is available at the
supermarket and the market (el mercado). The supermarket offers
many of the same products as the market, only at a higher price.
The best stall is called “El Wongcita de Luisa”. To find it, enter the
market from the north entrance (off Raymondi) and walk straight for
roughly 50m looking for a sign just above head height (it’s on the
left). Beware of becoming lost in the meat market (no refridgeration).
The following items are available at the market and the supermarket:
granola, oatmeal, eggs, bread, jam, peanut butter, cereal, milk powder,
tetrapack milk, cookies, crackers, chocolate of different varieties,
candy, pasta, ramen, couscous, rice, powdered soup, powdered sauce,
vegetable protein, salami, parmesan cheese, canned vegetables, juice
crystals.
ABOUT DONKEYS, ARRIEROS AND CONTRACTS
F
or the Huayhuash trip, with a basecamp, several weeks of food
and climbing gear, the approach would be difficult without the
aid of donkeys. The issue of using animals for this task is a complex
one. On one hand, one may argue that using animals to carry one’s
load is unethical, pathetic, and cheating. On the other hand, one
may argue that these animals are used to carry loads for their owners
anyways and the positive is that visitors are able to support a rural
family in a meaningful financial way. Being an arriero (donkey driver)
is an honourable and lucrative profession for a rural Peruvian. Make
an informed decision regarding hiring donkeys.
It is easy to contract an arriero (donkey driver) in Huaraz but
it is equally easy to do so at the roadheads in Llamac, Cajatambo,
and Queropalca. Donkeys carry up to 30kg (total) each in two even
packages. Large rice sacks are available in the market of Huaraz; these
sacks work well on donkeys. Divide the load into 15kg packages at
the hostel before heading for the Huayhuash.
Negotiate a price and write up a contract, make two copies,
give one to your arriero, and keep one (see Appendices 1 and 2 for
an arriero contract). Arrieros cost $10 per day and donkeys (burros)
cost $5 per day. You must pay the arriero for their way in and way
out. You must also provide them with a space in a tent for sleeping.
Finally, you are expected to feed them for both their way in and out.
In some cases, they will spend a night at friends’ houses in villages
along the way.
Trip Preparation–Stove Fuel: White Gas, Gas Cartridges:
Peruvian white gas is clean and cheap (S/3.50 per litre). Most guiding
shops sell it but it’s cheaper at the hardware stores (ferreteria) on
Raymondi near the market. Gas cartridges (Bluet) are available at
any one of the many guiding shops.
Information and Equipment: There are many guiding
companies in Huaraz. Each company is based from a store, which
has equipment for hire as well. They never sell their equipment but
are usually interested in buying. These stores usually know about
current conditions and news. I have found guides Alfredo and Jaime
at Mountclimb to be in the loop. Both of them speak English.
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29
“Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something
fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit.”
Abbie Hoffman
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30
Service Contract
Contrato de Servicio
An example of typical contract language.
An example of typical contract language.
31
This document certifies that ________________ , identified by passport number
____________2, residing in ________________3 as “client” and _______________4
identified with DNI Number _____________5 from the town of _________________6,
as “contractor” agree on the following:
Conste por el presente documento que de una parte celebran don
_____________ 1, identificado con Pasaporte número ____________ 2 y con
domicilio en __________________3 como contratante y por otra parte don
___________________4 identificado con DNI Numero ______________5 y con
domicilio en ___________________6, como contratado acordaron lo siguiente:
First: The contractor commits to being responsible for the safekeeping and
the security of the material to be transported, being the sole responsible for it.
Primero: El contratado se compromete a responsabilizarse por la seguridad del
material que transportará, siendo él, el único responsable de éste.
Second: The contractor also commits to duties of ________________ 7,
_________________8, and _____________________9.
Segundo: Se compromete a colaborar con ____________7, _______________8,
y _______________9.
1
Third: Along with meal preparation, the responsibilities of camp cook include (a)
collecting all food waste, including organic materials (b) keeping a clean kitchen
(c) always having a garbage bag available for clients and (d) making a final clean
sweep of campsites just prior to leaving.
Fourth: Along with load transportation, the arriero is also responsible for not
leaving any garbage behind, whatsoever.
Fifth: The Client agrees to pay the Contractor for his services the amount of
US$ ________10 (for his services per day) and US$________11 (per donkey per
day) for ____12 days of labour, which includes the days necessary for the return
to his/her community. The said payment will be paid as follows: _____%13
at the onset of the work; ______%14 at the conclusion of the work; and the
final _______%15 if and only if all garbage materials have been carried out and
presented to the trekkers at the conclusion of the work.
Sixth: No compliance of this contract will allow the contracting parties to seek
legal avenues that will enable them to recuperate from any damage caused.
Both parties, being in agreement of the aforesaid, sign the document.
Tercero: Además de la preparación de alimentos, las responsabilidades del
cocinero de campo incluyen (a) recolectar todos los desperdicios de comidas
(b) mantenimiento de una cocina limpia (c) siempre tener disponible una bolsa
de basura para los clientes y (d) limpieza final del campamento antes de partir.
Cuarto: Además del transporte de materiales, el arriero es responsable de no
dejar ningún desperdicio alguno.
Quinto: El contratante se compromete a abonar al contratado por la realización
de sus servicios la cantidad de US$______________10 (por sus servicios por
día) y US$___________11 (por burro por día) por la cantidad de _________12
días laborados, que incluyen los días de retorno a su comunidad. La cantidad
será abonada de la siguiente manera: __________%13 al inicio del trabajo,
___________%14 al final de éste, y ___________%15 solamente si todos los
desperdicios producidos en al viaje han sido removidos y presentados a los
clientes a la conclusión de este.
Sexto: En caso de incumplimiento del presente contrato las partes tienen
disponibles las vías legales para resarcirse del daño que pudiera ocasionarse
por dicho motivo.
Estando de acuerdo ambas partes con las cláusulas arriba mencionadas
firman para constancia el presente documento
Footnotes
1
1
2
2
Client’s full name
Passport number
3
Client’s country of residence
4
contractor’s full name
5
contractor’s DNI (National Identification Number)
6
contractor’s town of residence
7
camp cook (optional)
8
camp guardian (optional)
9
donkey driver (optional)
10
Daily wage (Arriero = $10)
11
Daily cost for each donkey ($5 recommended)
12
Number of days arriero will be paid for
13
Percentage of owings to be paid at the onset of the trek (50% recommended)
14
Percentage of owings which will be paid at the conclusion (40% recommended)
15
Remaining percentage of the owings, paid only if all garbage is carried out (10%)
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Nombre del cliente
Número de pasaporte
3
País de residencia del cliente
4
Nombre del contratado
5
Número de DNI del contratado
6
Pueblo de residencia del contratado
7
Labores de cocina (opcional)
8
Servicio de guardia (opcional)
9
Servicio de arriero (opcional)
10
Sueldo diario (arriero = $10)
11
Costo diario por cada burro (suma recomendada: $5)
12
Número de días por la cual el arriero será pagado
13
Porcentaje del pago total que será pagado al inicio del trekking (50% recomendado)
14
Porcentaje del pago que será pagado al finalizar el trekking (40% recomendado)
15
Porcentaje restante del pago será pagado solamente si toda la basura ha sido
recolectada y removida (10% recomendado)
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32
STAYING HEALTHY AND ALIVE
A
s far as sanitation goes, Perú is a cesspool. Tap water has all
sorts of disease-causing microbes. Some fields are irrigated with
sewage water. Having diarrhea frequently is common while in cities.
There are precautions, however, that reduce the chance of becoming
ill. Don’t drink tap water or any drink that has not been boiled or
bottled. Don’t eat any of the following: lettuce; skin of any fruit or
vegetable; any meat that hasn’t been very well cooked; any food
that has been handled directly by anyone else. Among Peruvians
virtually no one washes their hands. Avoid touching your food unless
you have just washed your hands with an antibacterial soap. In the
mountains, be wary of the water you drink. Livestock graze as high
as 4600m. Treat the water until sure that there are no animals above.
Malaria is only found in the jungle areas of South America; if travel
plans only involve Lima and the mountains then malaria pills are
unnecessary. Visit a travel clinic at home for vaccinations. If you
become persistently ill while in Perú, visit a local health clinic.
Medication: Some of these medications commonly taken on a
trip to the Huayhuash have strong side effects. See a doctor or local
travel clinic for advice.
Medication
Purpose
Flagyl
Giardia Antibiotic.
Cipro/ Ciprofloxacin
Salmonella, e.Coli, Dissentry Antibiotic.
Bactroban Cream Open skin infections.
Nifedipine/ Adelat Acclimatization.
Diamox
Acclimatization.
Decadron/ Dexamethasone Pulmonary Edema, Cerebral Edema.
Gravol
Nausea.
Ibuprophen
Mild pain killer, anti-inflammatory.
Demerol.
Extreme pain relief. This is a narcotic analgesic.
You
must carry a doctor’s note explaining why you have it and you must
declare
it when traveling through countries such as the USA.
Travel Insurance: Purchase medical/travel insurance that
covers mountain climbing, mountain rescues, etc. In Canada it costs
~$1 per day.
Emergencies: Part of expedition climbing is the commitment. If
you get in trouble in the Huayhuash, you are on your own. The
closest phone is at the roadhead. Perú does own at least one helicopter
whose duty includes mountain rescues. Good luck summoning it.
Bringing a satellite phone from home is probably the only realistic
chance of summoning help in real time. The phone numbers for the
High Altitude Rescue Service (Unidad de Salvamiento Alta Montaña)
are 043-79-3327, 043-79-3291, and 043-79-3333.
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WEATHER, CONDITIONS, AND ICE
33
B
eing so close to the equator, Perú does not experience summer
and winter per se. Instead, the natural way of describing the
seasons is ‘wet’ and ‘dry’. The dry season coincides with the Austral
winter ( June to September) however temperatures are only a few
degrees colder and daylight lasts ~½h less than in the Austral summer.
The dry season is characterized by prolonged stretches of clear,
calm weather. May is a fringe month, with mixed weather and deep
soft snow. Sometime in June, the weather usually settles and snow
conditions improve rapidly. July is usually the best month. In August,
the weather remains stable but sometimes a strong northerly wind
picks up. Much melt has occurred by August, making mixed lines
out of the question. In September and October, the crowds have left
but fairly good weather prevails.
A typical dry season day begins with crystal clear skies and
sunrise at 06:30. Sometime between 10:00 and 12:00, scattered
clouds can roll in from the Amazon (east) but often do not result
in precipitation. In early evening, the clouds begin to dissipate and
shortly after sunset (18:30), the skies clear again.
Bad weather comes from the Amazon (east). With a dramatic
rain shadow effect, there is a remarkable difference between weather
on the eastern side of the Huayhuash compared with that on the
west. For everything to the west of the divide to be under clear skies
while the eastern aspects are shrouded in clouds is not uncommon.
Temperatures: Daytime freezing levels hover around 5000m
year round and frost blankets slopes above 4000m at night. At 6000m,
temperatures below -15°C at night are rare.
The nature of the ice: Many slopes are of snow and firm
neve but Perú is most famous for the acres of thick, plastic, blue
ice covering much of the steeper aspects of its peaks. North-facing
aspects tend to have more neve and less ice while the south faces are
plastered in ice. Flutings near the top of faces are characteristic—and
somewhat infamous—in the region. Usually, fluting crest is made up
of unconsolidated sugar snow while the base/runnel has good ice.
Look for a darker streak in the runnel as a good way of anticipating
its consistency. Dark means ice; white mean anything from firm snow
to aerated ice to bottomless sugar. When desperate for protection in
a fluting, dig for it—invariably, ice is down there somewhere.
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34
THE CLIMBING STRATEGY
THE CLIMBING STRATEGY
Alpine Style: Although some of the routes found in this guide
were first ascended in classic expedition style, all are well suited for
Alpine style ascents. Even the hardest routes, such as the Czech
route on Rondoy (1982), were accomplished in alpine style. Rather
than trying a route that you would need to siege, choose something
that you can tackle in clean style. Assuming that alpine style is your
method of attack, keep your pack light. Altitude amplifies the weight.
Food: Most food items a trekker or climber would want is
available in Huaraz. There are a few exceptions. Powerbars, Clifbars,
Powergels, and Clifshots are not available. I bring 3 bars and 3 gels
for each climbing day. Freeze-dried meals are also not available in
Huaraz. For the voyage from home to Huaraz, bring enough food
and drinks to last 24h.
Ropes: Traditionally, climbers have used either two half-ropes
or two twin-ropes (60m). Both work well. Clearly, there is a need for
two ropes in order to rappel. However, on technical routes, where
the second will jumar, climbing with one single 10m rope and a haulrappel line (7mm or 8mm) may make more sense.
Ice Screws: Many routes involve pitch after pitch of plastic blue
ice. Having 2 screws per anchor and 4 to 6 per pitch is a common.
Express-type screws invariably save much time and energy. Practice
making V-threads since you may be forced to make one while in a
hanging stance, engulfed in a steady river of spindrift.
Snow pickets: Most routes involve some snow climbing, which
can be technical. Two to four 60cm snow pickets are an invaluable
part of a Huayhuash rack.
Rock gear: For routes involving rock, bring mostly small stuff:
~12 pins (blades, lost arrows, and angles), doubles in cams to 3cm,
singles in cams from 3cm to 10cm, wires, and slings.
Ice axes/ Ice tools: Most climbers choose two ice tools and
leave the mountaineering axe. The general belief is that it is more
important to be equipped for the hardest pitch than the easiest pitch.
Sleeping bag: It appears that there is no consensus over
which of down or synthetic is superior in Alpine climbing. From
my experience (I have tried both in the Huayhuash), the conditions
are cold and dry enough that down with a bivy sack performs better
than synthetic.
Weather Forecasts: Forecasts are at www.editoraPerú.com.
However, the webpage is in Spanish and also difficult to navigate.
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Food and Drink: A typical day on a climb starts by forcing
down a litre of water while shivering in the dark hours of the early
morning. With another litre of water in my pack, I leave for the climb
(no appetite in the morning hence no breakfast). Over the course of
the day, I eat something every 1½h (a gel or a bar) and drink all
my water. At the evening bivouac, I drink a litre of plain water, a
litre of soup (from Boullion cubes), some Gatorade, and dinner: 50g
of Couscous per person in a soup broth. With 200ml of fuel (white
gas) per person/day, this adds up to roughly 700g per person/day.
Sufficient water is critical to effective climbing. It is more
important than food and more important than sleep. If you are tired,
most likely you are also dehydrated. Drink a litre in the morning.
Forget about breakfast if lacking appetite, but still force down the
water. Becoming dehydrated saps strength and motivation at an
alarming rate. Well into a long climb, feeling out of steam, climbers
can sometimes rejuvenate by simply drinking a litre of water.
Energy Levels: Once well hydrated, the next thing to do to
help energy levels is keep the blood sugar level high. With altitude
(even acclimatized) comes a loss of appetite. The goal with eating
at altitude is not to nourish oneself (running off fat stores is part of
the game). Rather, eating keeps the blood sugar up: the vehicle to
digesting these fat and muscle stores. Powerbars/ Clifbars work well
on the long term (several hours) while Powergels/ Clifshots are good
for an immediate boost.
Bivouacs: Many routes in the Huayhuash necessitate spending
a night somewhere on a large, steep face. Sometimes, this means
hanging or crouching all night, begging for dawn. More often,
reasonable accommodation can be arranged in the most unlikely
places. The first thing to look for on a face, aside from an obvious flat
ledge, is a crevasse of some sort. Being a steep face, these crevasses
often run nearly horizontally into the slope, making a bivouac on the
lower wall of the crevasse rather luxurious. Due caution is needed
when exploring the idea of sleeping in a fissure. Also look for snow
mushrooms, and ice caves. As a last resort, hack a ledge into an ice
slope or knock off the crest of a fluting.
Descents: Ridges in the Huayhuash are often nightmarish,
corniced stilettos. There are no walk offs. Usually, the best way
down is to reverse the line of ascent, rappelling from V-threads. On
a smooth ice sheet, ropes seem to never snag or tangle and anchors
are wherever desired. Rappels can be done in 15 minutes, all said.
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36
GRADES AND LENGTHS OF CLIMBS
C
limbs are described by length and overall difficulty. In the text,
specific steepness and rock grades (French) are used.
Overall grades are given in International French Adjectival
System (F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED1, ED2, ED3, ED4). This overall rating
attempts to summarize the overall difficulty of a climb, including
length, commitment, objective hazard, technical climbing, descent,
and altitude. Being at high altitude, climbs in the Huayhuash are rated
harder than a similar climb in an area like Chamonix or the Rockies.
Adding further to the overall rating is the remoteness, commitment,
and a reduced possibility of rescue. Hence, at first glance, ratings
may seem to be inflated.
The Length of Route is defined in one of three ways. For steep
routes rising from a relatively flat glacier or slope, the beginning of
route is set as the bergschrund or beginning of the steep climbing, and
is the default for all climbs. For glacier routes that don’t have a clearly
defined beginning of steep climbing, the beginning of the route is set
as glacier’s edge and delineated by glr-edge. For routes without snow or
glaciers, the beginning of the route is set as the valley bottom, and
delineated by valley.
As a result of destabilizing glaciers, a handful of once-classic
routes in this guide have been rendered diabolic. The routes, (1922), are found on the west face of Yerupaja (pages 105-106), and are
included only for historic reference. They are not recommended for
climbing, and have not been assigned a difficulty rating.
BOOKS, MAPS, AND REFERENCE SOURCES
The best map is the Cordillera Huayhuash Peru 2004, 2nd edition: a
1:50,000 scale, 25m contour, 6-colour publication by Martin Gamache
of Peaks and Places Publishing. ISBN: 0-9758606-0-7. It is available
off www.peaksandplaces.com. It makes a great companion to this
guide and is in most guiding shops in Huaraz.
Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Perú.
Brad Johnson. Western Reflections Publishing, USA.
Touching the Void. Joe Simpson. Vintage Press. England
Map: Cordillera Blanca (North), Perú.
Oesterreichischer Alpenverein, Wein Austria. 2000.
Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca of Perú.
David Sharman. Whizzo Climbs, Scotland. Outdated comprehensive
guide to the Blanca. Sketches of peaks rather than photos.
Escaladas en los Andes: Guia de la Cordillera Blanca.
Juanjo Tome. Desnivel Ediciones, Spain. 1999. In Spanish.
Research: The information found in this book comes from
a variety of sources, and whenever possible, information is from
the author’s personal experience. Specific route information and
information on areas the author has not been come from secondary
sources: American Alpine Journals (AAJ), The Alpine Journal (AJ),
Mountaineering World (MW), Die Alpen (DA), High Mountain Sports
(HMS) as well as various people that have visited the area. Inevitably,
not all the information found in this guide has been checked very
thoroughly. It has been the goal of the author to provide as much
information as possible, and making it as clear as possible where it
is that the information came from.
Websites of Interest:
www.tahoebackcountry.net/featureS/huayhuash/huayhuash1.htm
A photo documentary of the Valley Circuit.
yama-tabi.net/usr/shinichi/index.htm
Japanese 1973 expedition to Jirishanca’s southeast face.
www.everestnews.com/stories024/Yerupajá.htm
Limitless Madness on the NE face of Yerupajá.
www.tvmountain.com/expe/dode1.htm
Pasta Religion on Puscanturpa Norte (including video footage).
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37
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38
ACCLIMATIZING -- ALLOW TIME
A
cclimatization isn’t much fun. It’s hard work and involves
headaches, loss of appetite, and general grogginess. However,
there are measures that trekkers and climbers can take to accelerate
acclimatization and hence move on to the enjoyable part of the trip.
When climbing at altitude, there is no substitute for a strong set of
legs and lungs, and a fit heart. Strong intercostal lung muscles will
improve your ability at altitude, where breathing seems to be what
slows most people down. For cardio training, a mix of short, fast and
long, slow runs is considered to be beneficial. Be in good ice and free
climbing shape; focusing on strong calves for endless frontpointing.
A common height-gaining procedure from sea level at Lima
is to continue by bus to Huaraz (3000m); (7h). Spend a day there,
acclimatizing to the new altitude. Spend 7–10 days in the Cordillera
Blanca acclimatizing (page 38). Choose routes that are low in technical
challenge. Trekkers should allow 3 to 5 days to acclimatize to 5000m.
Climbers should allow 7 to 10 days to acclimatize to 6000m. In
planning a schedule for a Huayhuash climbing expedition, allow for
doing time in base camp as the weather in the Huayhuash is not as
good as that in the Blanca.
Avoid jumping onto a climb that looks ‘interesting’ as that
invariably will add technical challenge and decrease the chance of
getting high, which is the goal on an acclimatization climb. Included
here are descriptions of two areas for climbing acclimatization and
one for trekking. Many more exist (see Classic Climbs of the Cordillera
Blanca, Peru by Brad Johnson). Another recommended trek in the
Blanca is the 3–4 day Santa Cruz Circuit.
Acclimatization drugs, including Diamox, Nifedipine, and
Decadron can also help. See a doctor for advice and prescriptions.
Locals claim that ingesting coca (as tea or simply by chewing it) aids
in acclimatization. Coca is readily available in markets in Peru but is
considered contraband by most Western countries (cocaine is derived
from the coca plant).
The key to efficient acclimatization is hydration. In fact,
err on the side of being overly hydrated. Good habits make copious
water consumption easier. For example, force down a litre of water
first thing in the morning. Set a goal of 5 litres of liquid per day and
avoid dehydrating caffeine in coffee, some teas, and chocolate.
Breathing techniques also seem to affect performance at
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ACCLIMATIZING -- TIPS TO EASE THE WAY
39
altitude. What follows are some tips that the author finds works
for him. Don’t let the body dictate breathing rate and depth.
Instead, breathe as deeply and rapidly as the body will tolerate:
hyper-ventilate. Breathing rapidly seems to be more important than
breathing deeply.
The walking or climbing pace is a third factor that seems
to affect acclimatization. At altitude, hiking at a normal pace for
low altitude travel will overwhelm the body’s ability to exchange
oxygen and carbon dioxide, resulting in hypoxia. Hypoxia hits a
hiker quickly, giving the feeling of not getting enough air. It is physiologically taxing on the body and will exacerbate altitude sickness.
Avoid it by slowing the pace. Find a pace that can be maintained
for at least ½h without stopping even momentarily to catch breath.
This pace is slower than trekkers often expect.
Expect to not eat much, to be irritable, and feel awful during
the period of acclimatization. It is common to wonder if you are
simply unable to get used to the thin air. You may come to believe
there’s no way you could ever do technical climbing at altitude. You
might even want to give up. It’s like that for almost everyone while
acclimatizing, but the doubts usually fade as performance at altitude
gradually improves. On subsequent trips to altitude, aside from having
to breathe hard, you will likely feel as you do at home. After suffering
through an acclimatization regimen, head for the Huayhuash. It is
recommended to head for the main objective before burnout occurs.
If you return to Huaraz with time to spare, it is easy to throw
together a quality climbing or trekking trip with 3–7 days. There are
classic treks and climbing routes, from the snowslog to the tour de
force, in abundance in the Blanca. (see Classic Climbs of the Cordillera
Blanca, Peru by Brad Johnson).
“Do or do not, there is no try.”
Yoda
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41
Michel van der Spek on Siula
Grande, South Face.
photo: Jeremy Frimer
Jacqui Hudson on the Alpine Circuit, Carnicero behind.
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42
Jacqui Hudson on Cerro Gran
43 Vista,
Yerupaja behind.
Steve Moffat, Rondoy behind.
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44
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
The northwest quadrant of the Huayhuash offers a good variety of
climbs within close proximity to one another. The area is an ideal
place from which to base a first trip to the Huayhuash; it’s also the
best bet if less than 10 days are available. Being in the rainshadow
of the Cordillera, the weather is quite good by Huayhuash standards.
The main basecamp at Jauacocha is in a beautiful, grassy valley, and
accessible in a single day from Huaraz, making it the easiest area to
reach in the Huayhuash. From basecamp, the Yerupajá West Glacier
approach gives access to a variety of classic snow and ice climbs from
F to ED. The Cassin Route on Jirishanca and the Southwest Ridge on
Yerupajá are classic. Generally, Jauacocha-based climbs are on ice and
snow, with little rock. There are climbs of all grades, with a particular
concentration of Ds and TDs. Cornices are an issue in this area and
due caution is advised.
The route to Jauacocha is logistically the easiest approach to
the Huayhuash. Until 2002, the road from Chiquian had not been
completed to Llamac. But with it, the concept of a quick trip into
the Huayhuash is now practical. If all goes smoothly (not particularly
common in Perú), it is feasible to leave Huaraz on the 06:00 bus, reach
the roadhead in Llamac at 10:30, and arrive in basecamp before dark.
The hike itself is outstanding. After gaining most of the elevation in
the first 1½h, the remaining 3–4h trek to this excellent basecamp is
both pleasant and scenic.
to Jauacocha Basecamp
Vehicle transport time:
Vehicle transport cost:
Hiking Distance / time
Gross Elevation Gain / loss:
Donkey, Arriero cost:
6h
$5 per person each way
15km / 5h
950m / 150m
$50 per team each way (3 burros/90kg)
By bus from Huaraz (3052m) to Chiquian (3400m); and then
Chiquian to Llamac (3300m).
The El Rapido Bus Service has two daily buses from Huaraz
to Chiquian for S/10 per person. They leave Huaraz at 06:00 and
13:00 and make the trip in 2½h. The return buses from Chiquian to
Huaraz leave at 05:00 and 14:00. Every bus is full, with people often
sitting in the aisle so buy tickets a day in advance.
There is a hostel in Chiquian (beds are S/10 and up), located 4
blocks north and 1 block west of the Plaza de Armas (central plaza)
NORTHWEST APPROACHES:
96–97
NORTHWEST INTRO:
NORTHWEST MAP:
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94
46
45
however most travelers will pass through without spending the night.
The bus to Huaraz may leave from the hostel or from the Plaza de
Armas. Inquire locally for details. Internet is available near the Plaza
de Armas for S/3 per hour.
In Chiquian, the bus to Llamac circles around looking for
passengers, making a stop to pick up those arriving on the bus from
Huaraz. The twice daily Chiquian–Llamac bus leaves at 09:00 and
16:00, costs S/5, and takes 1½h. The Llamac–Chiquian bus leaves
at 11:00 and 18:00 daily. The route follows a dusty road with few
views after the first ¼h.
In 2003, road construction was finally completed to the
mountain village of Llamac (3300m), thereby removing 25km of
dusty trail walking from the approach to the Cordillera. Along with
the convenience for locals and travelers, the road is dramatically
accelerating the Westernization of this once quaint town.
When the bus pulls into Llamac, it makes a 90° right turn. If
interested in spending a night in Llamac, get off at the turn and cross
the Llamac River on a bridge to reach a soccer field (50m from the
bus drop-off). Camp there. The owner of the field will collect a few
soles as a camping fee however there are no facilities such as public
toilets. Grocery stores, restaurants, and hostels are unreliable.
Trekking, ½ day. From the soccer field, recross the bridge
and continue straight into town to a 3-way intersection after about
200m. Turn right and 200m further, just after passing a store called
Ocrospoma, turn left. Pass through an intersection, then following the
road as it curves right, take the right-hand road at a Y-fork. Pass a
dwelling calling itself Andean Kingdom, and follow the road, which
becomes a trail as it leaves the town. The trail rises steadily towards
the southwest for ¾h then turns abruptly towards the southeast,
where a painted boulder marks the trail heading southwest towards
the town of Pacllon. After 1½h from Llamac, the ridgeline is reached
near a 3m cubed concrete box enclosed in a fence. Follow the trail
as it begins a hanging traverse of the north slope of the Achin River
Valley. After a short distance, reach a fork. Turn left (uphill) and
follow the trail up a long, gently-inclined slope to a 4250m shoulder.
Behold the first breathtaking view of the peaks of Jauacocha (2¾h
from Llamac). Cross the shoulder and begin a gradual descent toward
the Achin River Valley bottom, passing through several isolated
forests. Continue along the flat, pastoral valley to make a basecamp
anywhere in the vicinity of Jauacocha (5½h from Llamac). There are
a few friendly families around, who are usually willing to provide an
arriero for the way out.
NORTHWEST PHOTO–TOPOS 112 — 123
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NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
Approaches To The Climbs From Basecamp
Approach 1
—
to Sambuya Pass
for Ninashanca, Rondoy Northwest Face
From Jauacocha basecamp (4100m), walk east along the north side
of the valley on scant, disconnected trails to find a subtle trail in the
depression formed by the northern lateral moraine of Solteracocha
and the north slope of the greater Jauacocha valley. The trail rises
gradually northwards until it reaches the valley rim and crosses
Sambuya Pass (4750m). Cross through the pass then contour northwest
to a second pass. Make a descending traverse to the base of the routes.
Approach 2
—
Yerupajá West Glacier
for the Southwest Face on Rondoy, Mituraju, Jirishanca, Yerupajá Chico, Yerupajá, Seria Norte, East side of Rasac.
From basecamp (4100m), skirt Jauacocha to reach the entrance to
the swale between the south lateral moraine of Solteracocha and
the southern slope of the greater Jauacocha Valley. Pick up a faint
climber’s trail. The trail rises through the swale then becomes narrow
as it contours several hundred metres above the lake. There are a
few tricky and exposed spots before the trail turns steeply uphill and
gains a small plateau (4500m). Cross through boulders then ascend the
crest of another lateral moraine towards the south-southeast. A good
bivy spot with water is available at ~4800m (Moraine Camp), about
200m north of a banded, rock island butted up against the Yerupajá
West Glacier (5h from basecamp). From there, the approaches split:
2A Ghost Col. For the Southwest Face on Rondoy, Mituraju,
Jirishanca, TAM, and Yerupajá Chico, descend the lateral moraine
eastwards on hard-packed dirt, dropping down into a small green
valley adjacent to a steep wall of glacial ice. Crampons and ice axe
are recommended for descending the moraine. To gain the glacier, it
is usually necessary to travel higher (southward) immediately beside it
to find a suitable on-ramp. Travelling immediately beside the glacier
is hazardous due to icefall, but can be accomplished quickly. Gain
the glacier and move out into its less-broken centre. Walk straight upglacier, winding between crevasses, until it is possible to curl around
the south end of the TAM summits to reach Ghost Col (5435m; 5h
from moraine camp). From there, all the climbs are accessed with
little difficulty.
NORTHWEST APPROACHES:
96–97
NORTHWEST INTRO:
NORTHWEST MAP:
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47
2B Yerupajá West Glacier. For Yerupajá, Seria Norte, and
the east side of Rasac, continue up the moraine, hitting snowline at
~5000m, while passing the above-mentioned rock island on its west
side. After negotiating a few crevasses, the wide-open and smooth
Yerupajá West Glacier is gained with little difficulty.
Approach 3
—
Rasac Valley
for the west side of Rasac, and the east side of Tsacra Chico
The goal is to gain the hanging valley to the south, which abuts the
basecamp valley 1km east of the east end of Jauacocha. There may
be a trail and livestock likely graze the lower reaches of the valley.
Several parties have made this approach and reported no difficulties.
Further details are not available. Once in the upper Rasac Valley, the
Rasac Glacier has been gained directly from Barrasacocha as well as
by way of a traverse from Rasac Pass:
As Hans Zebrowski said of this approach, “From Barrasacocha,
we climbed east for four ropelengths over polished cliffs to a small
lake at the edge of the glacier, where we bivouacked at 16,000 ft.
We ascended a not very steep glacial terrace to the foot of [Middle
Buttress].” AAJ 1984 p.204. And Ralph Esser; “From Rasac Pass,
we traversed across the glacier to the left (north) and had a difficult
time crossing the first band of seracs on brittle ice.” AAJ 1981 p.226
Approach 4
—
Huacrish Valley
for Tsacra Grande, Tsacra Grande Oeste, Huacrish, and Ancocancha
The Huacrish Valley entrance is found 500m west of the west end
of Jauacocha. Find the trail into the Huacrish valley 100m to 200m
west of the Huacrish River, entering into a swath of bushes. After
switchbacking a few times, it gains the pastoral hanging valley. Follow
the valley floor, passing a valley fork, keeping to the main valley
heading straight south. Two kilometres from the fork, pass Saquicocha.
For Tsacra Grande and Tsacra Grande Oeste leave the valley there,
ascending towards the southeast above (south of) Saquicocha. For
Huacrish and Ancocancha, continue upvalley for another 1½ km to
reach Huacrish Lake (4936m; 6km, 600m elevation, and 3–5h from
Jauacocha).
NORTHWEST PHOTO–TOPOS 112 — 123
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ROUTES:
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
1,2 (98) 4 (99) 5 (100) 13(103)
ROUTES:
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4 (99) 5,6 (100)
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50
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NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
15 (103) 16 (104)
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
17,18,19 (105)
20,21,22,23 (106)
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7,8,9 (101) 10,11,12 (102)
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52
ROUTES:
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
7,8,9 (101) 10,11,12 (102)
ROUTES:
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7,8,9 (101) 10,11,12 (102)
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53
54
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
ROUTES:
NORTHWEST BASECAMPS
17,18,19 (105) 20,21,22 (106)
ROUTES:
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28,29,30,31 (108)
32,33 (109)
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55

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