St Thomas` Anglican Church, Middle Island, St. Kitts Prepared by
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St Thomas` Anglican Church, Middle Island, St. Kitts Prepared by
1 A brief sketch of St Thomas’ Anglican Church, Middle Island, St. Kitts Prepared by Learnice Mitchell and Dr. Susan M. Kenyon 2013 ST. THOMAS’ CHURCH – MIDDLE ISLAND is the oldest Anglican Church in the West Indies, introduced shortly after the arrival on the island of St Kitts of the eponymous Captain Thomas Warner. In 1623 Warner arrived with a crew of twenty and settled the first European colony on the island. In 1625 Captain Warner returned from a successful trip back to England to sell the tobacco crop grown by the new settlers, and brought with him the Reverend John Teatley (also spelt ‘Featley’). Former member of Magdalene College and Fellow of All Souls, Oxford, he became Rector of Middle Island from 1625-1634, establishing the first Anglican congregation on the island. With the rapid expansion of European settlement, a second rector was appointed in 1630 (at Palmetto Point) and shortly after, one on the east coast of the island. Originally Anglican churches on St. Kitts were temporary structures of wood on cobble-stone foundations, with out-buildings of wild cane. St. Thomas was no different. It stood to the west of the present structure with the tombs of Sir Thomas Warner and Samuel Jefferson situated inside the church. This building was badly damaged by hurricane and earthquake, particularly the earthquake of 1841, and by 1860 worship was being held in the school room. The present stone structure, built by the colony in 1860 at a cost of 2,000 pounds sterling, was consecrated on April 21st, 1861 with Darius Davey as Rector. One of the most significant events in recent history occurred on Tuesday 8th October 1974. As a result of an early morning earthquake, the church tower collapsed. Shortly before 6 am, Sexton Joseph Duporte was on his way to the church to ring the angelus for matins. He had just reached Warner’s tomb when the ground shook, scattering stones all about him. Arch-Deacon Hodge, then Rector for St. Thomas, was leaving his rectory home in Sandy Point to conduct the service when his house shook. He remembers rushing back upstairs to check on his frightened family before hurrying over to the Church. 2 The collapse of the tower and further tremors led to serious damage of the roof. Extensive fund-raising led by Father Menes Hodge enabled this to be repaired and the Church reopened. The consecration took place in 2000, with Father Payne-Cook as Rector. Ecclesiastically the church is in the St. Thomas parish, one of nine Anglican parishes in St. Kitts and part of the Diocese of North East Caribbean and Aruba. The Archbishop of the Diocese is based in Barbados. The Church Architecture The present church was built in 1860, as indicated by the date on the tower, and is based on a typical British design of extended nave and tower at the western end. 2013 The Church Tower According to Rollinson's (2010) survey, the tower was approximately 41 feet high with a base of 14 feet by 18 feet. It was built from local volcanic field stone (andesite) and lime mortar, using traditional methods dressing field stones to make blocks of approximately 10-12 inches square. These are then laid in an inner and outer row 24 to 36 inches apart. The space between the inner and outer wall is filled with consolidated rubble (small stones mixed together with lime mortar). The gaps between the facing blocks being filled with mortar, 'pointed' to prevent rainwater getting into the consolidated rubble as well as providing a more aesthetically looking finish. The dimensions and design of the tower are typical for the period, found elsewhere in the English-speaking Caribbean, including St. George's Anglican Church, Basseterre. The original design of a tall tower for its relatively small footprint size makes these towers particularly susceptible to damage from earthquakes and hurricanes. When the St. Thomas Church tower was re-built in 1860, substantial exterior buttresses were added for additional support. Their effectiveness was revealed in the 1974 earthquake when only the unsupported top third of the tower was destroyed. The earthquake which destroyed the bell-tower also created a crisis for the church bell. This valuable instrument was originally cast in England and used for over a century to summon parishioners to worship. After the 1974 earthquake it was placed on the floor of the old tower – but was secretly stolen to be shipped overseas. The ship carrying the bell was tied up at the island of St Thomas, en route for the East, when the theft was discovered and the thieves apprehended. The bell was returned to St Kitts, and is now stored in the rectory until it can be rehung. Meanwhile the two small support bells are mounted and used, but lack the resonance of the old bell. 3 Congregation Church Youth Group activities 2013 Today there are about 200 active, though aging, members of the parish. People recall that the Church was far more important in their lives in the past, a time when transport was difficult and alternative diversions, few. This was when plantation owners sent workers to tend the garden and graveyard, and Church lands were immaculate; when youth groups were large and energetic, hosting concerts and sports events regularly; when early morning mass was crowded and members regarded the church with respect and even awe; when all children were baptized and the Church was packed for a funeral. Since the early 19th century St Thomas has kept full records of the activities of the parish and these reveal how the congregation as well as the Church has changed. In 1850 the congregation consisted largely of farm labourers (men) and domestic workers or laundry workers (women). Today the high church form of worship appeals to an increasingly educated congregation, while many working people prefer one of the “outside” churches so popular on St Kitts. The former importance of the Church is echoed in oral accounts. One woman remembers from her childhood in the mid-20th century that Christmas services were particularly memorable. Her family lived in the village of Half Way Tree, where her parents kept a bakery. On Christmas Eve the children 4 would be put to bed early, then woken at 10pm to find new clothes laid out for them. With great excitement they got dressed and then all set out, to walk the few miles to church. Singing carols as they went, they were joined along the way by other Anglicans heading for the same midnight mass. Finally the crowd rounded the corner into Middle Island and there, at the top of the hill, was St Thomas Church, colored lights bursting from its stained glass windows, a magnificent sight backlit by the night stars. Few other places at that time had either electricity or glass windows like the Church, which was lit up like the Promised Land. Though largely silent in Church records, women have long played an important role in the life of the Church. Outstanding recent parishioners include Ms Lilian Davis, beloved Church organist and Sunday school teacher (who died around 1965), and Ms Edna Tyrrell (1914-2011), school teacher and community leader. 5 The Cemetery More likely to survive earthquakes and hurricanes, tomb- and monument-stones in the West Indies are generally older than the churches in which they are found. St. Thomas Church cemetery, the oldest in the Island and possibly in the British Caribbean, contains some of the oldest tombstones in the region. These date back to the 17th century, the graves of wealthy white land owners and buccaneers. Slaves and labourers, not admitted to the Anglican congregation until the late 18th century, were more likely to be buried on the estates where they died and, until recently, had unmarked graves. Parish records, however, mention one William Wells, wealthy land owner and father of Nathaniel Wells, first black sheriff in UK, as being buried in St Thomas cemetery in 1794; and the family of John Duport (born 1830, who was sent on the first West Indies mission to Africa) was already resident in the area by that time. Some distinguished people were buried in St Thomas's graveyard. The earliest burials were those of Sir Thomas Warner in 1648 and his friend Captain Samuel Jeaffreson in 1649. That of Sir Thomas Warner is the largest, its marble stone weathered but the expansive epitaph still largely legible. Sir Thomas, the first Lieutenant-Governor of St Kitts, was knighted by King Charles 1 in 1629. Adjacent is the grave of Captain Samuel Jeaffreson, born in Suffolk, England, in 1584, and neighbour to Thomas Warner. Greatgreat-great grandfather of Thomas Jefferson, third President of the US, he arrived in St Kitts in 1625 with his brother John Jeaffreson, captain of the Hopewell, which relieved the distress of the new Kittitian settlement after a hurricane in 1624. He then became the owner of Wingfield Estate (the Red House Plantation), subject of the first land-grant in the English Caribbean, in 1625. Pavilions covering the graves of Sir Thomas Warner and his friend Captain Samuel Jeaffreson, Michael Lambert, Major General of the Leeward Islands and sometime Governor of St. Christopher’s, died 1723/4 and was also buried in St Thomas cemetery. 6 Two illustrious old families are commemorated inside the Church. Over the west door, a monumental marble remembers Sir Charles Payne (died 1744), descended from an illustrious Norman line. Another monument is to Captain John Pogson (died 1686). One of his descendents, Sir Edward Pogson (died 1892) is buried in the cemetery. Owner of Bourkes Estate, he gave land for the Pogson Hospital in Sandy Point. Several English clergymen who served St. Thomas parish are commemorated in the Church. Rev. Louis Randolph Victor Spinks (died 1969), Rector of St. Thomas Church from 1915-1932, is remembered with a plaque. Father Bulteel, Rector from 1942-44, was buried facing east (as befits a priest) in the grave outside the main Church entrance. Next to Father Bulteel, but facing west (as befits a congregationer) lies Joseph Nathaniel Duporte (1915-2006), Sexton of the church for over sixty years. At his request, he was buried next to his friend. Duporte's mother and wife are buried in the grave just below them. Other recent graves include that of Sir Geoffrey Boon (1888-1970), owner of Wingfield Estate for many years, and an important benefactor of the church. He is buried with members of his family to the west of the main church entrance. Rectory For many years St. Thomas’s parish priest was housed in the rectory, next door to the church and parishioners and former priests recall what a beautiful home it made. Damaged in a hurricane in 1990, the rectory now is used only for committee meetings and social events. The surrounding grounds continue to be used for church bazaars and celebrations. The Church School Until 1915, education on St Kitts was provided largely by the Churches. Virtually all children started out in a church school, and for many years St Thomas’ was the only school in Middle Island, still remembered as the Church School building 2013 7 "School with the Cross" because of the large cross above the porch roof. Even after the government became responsible for education, schooling continued to be held in this hall, closely linked to the Church. People today recall how every Wednesday morning all the students had to attend mass at 9 o'clock, lining up in pairs to walk over to the Church. The original Church School building School building Glebe Lands St Thomas Church continues to be surrounded by church-owned land (glebe land). On much of this a range of fruit trees - mango, guava, soursop and breadfruit - is cultivated. Private homes now also occupy some of this area. Glebe lands surrounding the Church and Rectory 8 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Many people contributed to this research. Particular thanks are due to Ms. Norma Duporte. We also appreciate the help of Archdeacon Valentine B. Hodge; Rev. Dick-Grant; Mrs. Corinth Rodgers; Mr. Oliver Spencer; Mr. Joseph Gibson; Mr. St. Clair Samuel; Mrs. Jane Canning; Mr. Wallcott Hillocks; St. Christopher National Trust and in particular Mrs. Kate Orchard, Mrs. Jacqueline Armony and Ms. Natasha Leader. We wish to emphasize that this is a preliminary study, intended to stimulate further research in due course. We would welcome comments and feedback. REFERENCES Buisseret, David. 1980. Historic Architecture of the Caribbean. London: Heinemann Manchester, Kathleen D. 1971. Historic Heritage of St Kitts, Nevis, Anguilla. Trinidad Matheson, D.L. 1973/74. The Thomas Warner Story. Unpublished booklet. Rollinson, David. 2010. A Survey of the Tower, St Thomas Church, Middle Island, St Kitts, West Indies. Unpublished Report prepared for St Thomas Church. St Thomas Cemetery Inventory, St Kitts. 1999. Prepared by Caribbean Volunteer Expeditions, NY, and Center for Historic Cemeteries Preservation, Tallahassee, FL for the St Christopher Heritage Society. Walker, G.P.J. 1992. The Life of Daniel Gateward Davis, First Bishop of Antigua. Creole Publishing Company, St Kitts, WI.